Denim. Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Roshan Paul. Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 164. Edited by. The Textile Institute
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1 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 164 Denim Manufacture, Finishing and Applications Edited by Roshan Paul The Textile Institute WP AMSTERDAM BOSTON CAMBRIDGE HEIDELBERG " H" rubllbhincj LONDON NEWYORK OXFORD PARIS SAN DIEGO -; ; SAN FRANCISCO SINGAPORE SYDNEY TOKYO ELSEVIER Woodhead Publishing is an imprint of Elsevier i
2 List of contributors Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv Preface xiii xxiii 1 Denim and jeans: an overview 1 R. Paul 1.1 Introduction Denim fabric manufacture Manufacture and finishing of jeans Novel applications and environmental aspects Future trends Conclusion 11 Sources of further information 11 Part One Denim fabric manufacture 13 2 Cotton fibre for denim manufacture 15 J. McLoughlin, S. Hayes and R. Paul 2.1 Introduction Cotton cultivation Fibre properties Cotton fibre processing Spinning of denim yarns Developments in cotton for denim Future trends Conclusion 35 Sources of further information 35 References 36 3 Indigo dye and reduction techniques 37 R.B. Chavan 3.1 Introduction Indigo popularity for denim Dyes other than indigo History of indigo 39
3 3.5 Indigo production Indigo properties Reduction of indigo Traditional and modern dyeing methods Future trends Conclusion 61 References 61 4 Indigo dyeing technology for denim yarns 69 N. Meksi and M.F. Mhenni 4.1 Introduction Evolution of indigo dyeing Indigo dyeing techniques Indigo dyeing machinery Factors affecting indigo dyeing Testing and quality control Future trends Conclusion 101 Sources of further information 102 Acknowledgement 102 References Dyeing of denim yarns with non-indigo dyes 107 M. Sanchez 5.1 Introduction General considerations Options for non-indigo dyeing Non-indigo dyes for fabric overdyeing Modern colouration possibilities Future trends Conclusion 155 Sources of further information 155 References Weaving technologies for manufacturing denim 159 M.A. Raina, Y.S. Gloy and T. Gries 6.1 Introduction Historical aspects Fibres for denim manufacture Yarns for denim manufacture Preparation of denim yarns Technologies for denim weaving Denim weaving machines Weaving with intelligent machines 178
4 vii 6.9 Manufacture of high quality denim Future trends Conclusion 185 References 186 Part Two Manufacture and finishing of jeans Role of denim and jeans in the fashion industry 191 C. Regan 7.1 Introduction Denim fabric and apparel business Soft value of denim jeans History of denim and jeans Social influence ofjeanswear Cultural influence of denim work wear Denim as luxury attire Future trends Conclusion 214 References Joining techniques for denim jeans Hayes and J. McLoughlin 8.1 Introduction Seams in the construction of jeans Stitch types in jeans manufacture Sewing threads for jeans Sewing needles for jeans Machines for making jeans Fabric feed systems Stitching of denim jeans Sewing faults and troubleshooting Attaching fastenings on jeans Future trends Conclusion 268 Sources of further information 269 Acknowledgements 270 References Dyeing technologies for denim garments 271 A.K. Sarkar 9.1 Introduction Garment dyeing processes Garment dyeing machinery 276
5 viii Contents 9.4 Advances in garment dyeing Testing and quality assurance Future trends Conclusion 283 References Digital printing techniques for denim jeans 287 J.M. Lucas, N.J.R. Belino, R.A. Miguel, M.M. Pereira and L.S. Ribeiro 10.1 Introduction Textile characteristics Inkjet printing machines Colour technology and management Techniques for developing digital denim Future trends Conclusion 309 Sources of further information 309 References Washing techniques for denim jeans 313 C.W. Kan 11.1 Introduction Classification of washing techniques Denim and jeans washing machines Factors affecting washing effect Troubleshooting in denim washing Future trends Conclusion 352 Sources of further information 353 Acknowledgement 353 References Biotechnological washing of denim jeans 357 A. Colomera and H. Kuilderd 12.1 Introduction Types of industrial enzymes Enzymes for jeans washing Biotechniques and process recipes Factors affecting washing effectiveness Backstaining phenomenon Troubleshooting guidelines Sustainable developments in washing Future trends Conclusion 402 Sources of further information 402
6 ix 13 Reduced water washing of denim garments 405 B. Garcia 13.1 Introduction Techniques for reducing water in denim washing Industrial application scenarios Factors affecting process effectiveness Testing the effectiveness of washing Future trends Conclusion 422 References Finishing of jeans and quality control 425 F. Kalaoglu and R. Paul 14.1 Introduction Dry and wet finishing processes Printing techniques Finishing of denim fabrics Functional finishing of denim jeans Final operations and inspection Quality control in jeans production Future trends Conclusion 457 Acknowledgements 458 References Comfort aspects of denim garments 461 MM. Mangat and L. Hes 15.1 Introduction Comfort aspects of denim Thermo-physiological comfort Development of functional denim Testing of comfort parameters Future trends Conclusion 478 References 478 Part Three Novel applications and environmental aspects Novel varieties of denim fabrics 483 A.K. Patra anda.k. Pattanayak 16.1 Introduction Pseudo denim and generic denim Reverse denim Stretch denims 490
7 X Contents 16.5 Denim of other fibres and blends Biodegradable denims and their properties Other types of denim Future trends Conclusion 504 References Non-apparel applications of denim 507 O.E. ipnal and L. Yildirim 17.1 Introduction Classification of non-apparel denim products Analysis of the current situation Other interesting developments Future trends Conclusion 523 Sources of further information 523 References Recovery and recycling of denim waste 527 A. Luiken and G. Bouwhuis 18.1 Introduction Problem with denim waste Recovery techniques for denim waste Recycling of denim waste Development of recycled products Environmental benefits of denim recycling Future trends Conclusion 538 Sources of further information Effluent treatment in denim and jeans manufacture 541 N. Uzal 19.1 Introduction Characteristics of wastewater Techniques for treating wastewater Wastewater recovery and reuse Case studies Future trends Conclusion 557 References Environmental impacts of denim manufacture 563 W. Schrott and R. Paul 20.1 Introduction Cotton production for denim 565
8 20.3 Dyes for denim dyeing Dyeing auxiliaries Combined dyeing processes Minimal application technologies Auxiliaries and finishing chemicals Garment washing and finishing Distribution and retail Future trends Conclusion 578 Sources of further information 579 References 579 Index 581
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