EL DIABLO, A VELHA MENINA, LA SAYONA E A CABAÇA DELA

Transcription

1 STORYTAILORS EL DIABLO, A VELHA MENINA, LA SAYONA E A CABAÇA DELA One of the most alluring and inviting images of winter is that of a comforting fireplace, where flames dance sinuously, warming us as we approach. We cosy up around it and we allow ourselves to be filled with somnolence. We tell stories to each other, share experiences. Lenghty conversations that continue long into the night. Curious, entertaining, mysterious, disconcerting, frightening stories. In the dim light, shimmering shadows challenge our imagination, altering our perception of space and time. The initial inspiration for the story now told is based on other narratives set in scenarios such as this one, some thirty years ago, in Portugal and Venezuela. In Portugal, a grandmother from Alentejo would always tell her grandson, every year, three stories back to back and in the same order: first As Filhoses de Natal, then A Velha e a Cabacinha and, finally, the Capuchinha. The three narratives were perceived by the grandson as one, to the point of considering them as incomplete if told separately. In Venezuela, another boy would listen to tales of LLorona, Sayona and Silbón, authentic fabulous dead souls which populated his dreams and mingled with characters of the joyous festivities he knew, the Diablos Danzantes, very similar to the Caretos of the region of Trás-Os-Montes. The merging of these references was the starting point for beginning this surreal story. The silhouettes of this collection are just that: cut-outs, contours, subject to our interpretation and mysterious impulse, enriching our perception with unusual combinations of ideas and sensations. Wool, fleece, cotton, neoprene and fibre are some of the materials used. The Portuguese traditional raw materials are associated with technological materials. In the colour palette, black stands out. The black that is the unknown, the mystery, the darkness of the long nights, but also the protection as it is the paradox of being all colours and no colour all at once. And all the shades of black. We have added fuel to the fire of our inspiration and we hope to influence the imagination of those watching.

2 STORYTAILORS João Branco and Luís Sanchez started the Storytailors in 2001 after completing their Fashion Design courses at the School of Architecture of the Technical University of Lisbon. After joining efforts and going over ideas, they decided to start a conceptual, international project that would reflect their way of thinking and working in fashion. Passionate about History, stories and metaphors, and fascinated by garments, tailoring and fashion, they combined two English words to name their project; this is how story and tailors have become Storytailors. Based on their research and imagination, the Storytailors create and tell their stories to the world. Each collection is a chapter in a larger story, where ideas flow freely. Metaphors, embodied by each garment, are their favoured form of communication. History, modernity and the Future are combined in their timeless designs. Each piece created by the Storytailors survives the season and can be reproduced at any time, by order or in special editions. Every year, the Storytailors show their collections at Portugal Fashion. The designers also take their creations abroad, showing them in cities like Paris, within the scope of Portugal Fashion International. As a result, their designs are often featured in the most prestigious national and international publications. In 2006, the Storytailors opened a store and studio in downtown Lisbon, at Calçada do Ferragial 8, Chiado. The historical three-storey building where spices, fabric and gems used to be stored centuries ago now breathes other aromas and holds different treasures. Amongst many other garments, the Storytailors have designed pieces for several bands and singers, namely The Gift, Amália Hoje, Mísia and Yolanda Soares. Storytailors Store & atelier. Lisbon Calçada do Ferragial 8, 10 Chiado Lisbon e. store@storytailors.pt t w.

3 HIBU IMPRESSION #1 (Bloom) No substance, Open to sugestion. This a collage, The Begining of a Memoir. MATERIALS Wool, linen, canvas, rib, italian fleece. COLOURS Gray, blue in dark and light tones, green, light yellow, soft pink. HIBU HIBU. is a Portuguese innovative brand, whose vision relies on the belief that gender is not important to the piece s conception transporting an urban, sportive and dark style to a minimal and deconstructive scene. Co-developed by Marta Gonçalves and Gonçalo Páscoa, HIBU. presents now an ergonomically and innovative collection. Established in Lisbon, the brand was founded in 2012 by the recently graduated Marta Gonçalves. A few months later HIBU became a duo, due to the entrance of Gonçalo Páscoa. Gonçalo and Marta form the design duo at HIBU. The designers met while studying fashion and textile design at Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas in Castelo Branco, where they acknowledge a common perception in style and aesthetic. That being so, it only seemed natural to combine forces and create a brand that mixes Marta s commercial and urban take on fashion with Gonçalo s deconstructive, somber and sportive lines. e. hibu.design@gmail.com t w.

4 CARLA PONTES ORBIT (Bloom) Around. As a planet goes around a star, as a moon goes around a planet. But this collection shares a different ORBIT. ORBIT gives you the chance to look into our planet through the sky. It gives you the chance to see the contour curves in a dry lake, the volume of a volcano, the texture of the lava flow. It s enhanced by grains and granite, by textures and terraces. A darker insight! But at the same time a vision of different states of beauty, that ORBIT around. Inspired on the contour curves of a dry lake a reversible knit jacquard was developed with two different compositions, either 100% felted wool, or combining wool and cotton in order to obtain texture. This felted technique resulted in three different colors combinations and a tight knitted fabric. Each piece is viewed as an object for the study of design and for finding minimal shapes in the third dimension. All the models are precisely localized on the pattern and planned according to the fabric width. The details are carefully developed and find some sporty inspiration. A formal clearance and a contemporary simplicity is searched to produce an urban, almost unisex, style. CARLA PONTES After a degree in product design at the Matosinhos School of Art and Design (ESAD) and a year of Erasmus exchange program at the Politecnico di Milano, Carla Pontes continued her studies at the prestigious Portuguese fashion school CITEX-MODATEX. In 2012, to complete her graduation as a fashion designer, she was granted an internship at Nuno Baltazar Atelier. Soon after, Carla Pontes was invited to become a member of Baltazar s team, where she collaborates until November 2013 as a Junior Designer. As a young fashion designer, Carla Pontes participated in the "Aliança" competition with a short collection entitled element. As a result, she was invited to make part of BLOOM, a significant platform for young designers in "Portugal Fashion" events. In October of 2012, she presented STONE, her first collection inspired by the atmosphere and layers of a light quarry. This collection was flown to Madrid s Matadero and presented at the Young Designers Fashion Shows. In February 2014 Carla Pontes exhibits in London during London Fashion Week. She was part of the group of 10 designers who represented Portugal at the International Fashion Showcase Currently her name continues to be part of young designers platform BLOOM, while enlarging international presence by participating in trade fairs in Paris, London and Copenhagen. e. hello@carlapontes.pt w. t /

5 ALVES/GONÇALVES Sombre, romantic and introspective atmosphere. Long silhouettes, where maxi reigns. The shape is crafted to create dense or exalted and feminine movements. The male oversize permeates the femininity of the details and shapes. Draping, tying, adding, placing large eyelets, laces and huge buttons, accentuating rebelliousness without prejudice. Dense and sometimes voluminous fabrics combine with other luxurious cloths, coexisting with finishes that go against the usual standards of sewing and freely unraveling the hems to create greater freedom in construction. Silk brocades, natural silk crepes, wool, tweeds (with herringbone and square patterns showing a masculine touch and pied-de-poule) and laces. The black, scarlet red, blue and white give density to the collection proposed for an intimate, romantic and free winter. ALVES/GONÇALVES Manuel Alves was born in Montalegre and José Manuel Gonçalves in Abrantes. Their collaboration began in 1984, when they formed a partnership and decided to inaugurate two stores in Bairro Alto, in Lisbon, to market their collections for men and women. In 1985 they showcased their collections at the Correio Velho Palace, and have done so regularly ever since. In addition to their work as fashion designers, they collaborated with industry between 1989 and 1992, creating various brands for national and international markets. By invitation from the then ICEP, in 1993/4 and 1995 the two designers showcased their collections at the Gaudi Salon, in Barcelona. Within the international sphere, their participation in SHEM and IGEDO is also noteworthy. In addition, they have been invited to promote Portuguese fashion in London, Copenhagen and Washington. They were awarded the "Fashion Personality" Golden Globe and have designed uniforms for companies such as Vodafone and TAP, as well as costumes for cinema, theatre and ballet. The duo have also developed a ceramics line and a jewels and accessories line, and designed a stamp for Correios de Portugal (CTT, the Portuguese Postal Service) in Between 1991 and 2013 the two designers were invited to teach Fashion Design at the Faculty of Architecture of Lisbon. With the support of Portugal Fashion, they have showcased their collections on the runway in São Paulo and New York. ATELIER Travessa Guilherme Cossoul nº Lisbon e. m.alves.goncalves@alvesgoncalves.pt / m.alves.goncalves@gmail.com t