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1 ADVERTISEMENT February 14, 2008 $2.00 WWDTHURSDAY

2 5TH AVENUE AT 56TH STREET NEW YORK FLAGSHIP NOW OPEN visit guccilovesny.com 100% of the proceeds from the limited edition Gucci loves NY bag will benefit the playground partners of the central park conservancy

3 JONES AIMS FOR SPEED/3 PLOTTING ELLEN TRACY S FUTURE/3 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear Women s Wear Daily The Retailers Daily Newspaper February 14, 2008 $2.00 Stark Trek Minimalism offset runway glitz this fall, when Francisco Costa sent out a beautifully serene, yet still rigorous, lineup at Calvin Klein. Here, one of those quiet numbers, a silk-and-wool bustier paired with a wool felt pencil skirt. For more on the trend, see pages 6 and 7. It s Tough in New York: Nordstrom Hits Hiccup Securing Flagship Site By David Moin Nordstrom Inc. is discovering the difficulties of securing a flagship in Manhattan. According to real estate sources, the Seattle-based retailer s plan to open a store on the former Drake Hotel site, on the northwest corner of Park Avenue and 56th Street, has hit snags, although it s not a dead issue. The evolving saga of the Drake Hotel site is still in flux, said a source close to the upscale specialty chain. Last fall, Nordstrom signed a nonbinding letter of intent to move into the former hotel, which is being See Nordstrom, Page 18 PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

4 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear Valentine s Day may be a perplexing gift giving time for many men, but truth be told: giving the perfect present to the women in your lives may be as easy as remembering your ABC s. That is if your gift is A: Appealing to the eye, B: Beautiful to the touch and C: Comfortable to the point that she wants to wear it all the time. Intimate apparel is a terrific gift for Valentine s Day, says Beau Walter, owner of The Pajama Store, a smart online destination for loungewear. The best thing a man can remember is that a woman wants something that feels like a hug and that s it. Shop with that in mind and you have the perfect gift. In Walter s opinion, those gift ideas include luxurious robes, flattering camis with boy shorts and comfortable pajamas. She also contends that no matter what the garment, it should be made from cotton. Women like things that are natural and soft and they are going to prefer that over something shiny and synthetic. Data from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor supports Walter s theory. When asked about the fiber that they most prefer their pajamas or sleepwear to be made of, 82 percent of female respondents cited cotton and cotton flannel. Comfort is always a big factor in sleepwear, especially for women, affirms Michael Kleinman, President of Fresh Pair, a leading internet retailer of men s and women s intimate apparel. Cotton is a very comfortable option. The importance of cotton to the imitates category no doubt played a role in a recent award ceremony. The Underfashion Club, an association for intimate apparel insiders dedicated to educating the next generation of the industry, recently honored Cotton Incorporated with the FEMMY Award at the club s annual fundraising gala. President and CEO J. Berrye Worsham accepted on behalf of the company stating:...we hope that the next generation will appreciate the versatility and benefits of cotton fiber as much as the current one. Subtlety is also a virtue when giving the gift of intimate apparel. For our customer, this Valentine s Day has been about finding unique and elegant lingerie without it screaming Valentine s Day, shares Saleena Sidhu, President of Pfiff Lingerie, a line of well-constructed intimate apparel. The customer is focusing on investing in a piece that makes a statement, but can still be worn throughout the year with ease. Women overwhelmingly prefer cotton for their undergarments. According to the Monitor, four out of five women cited a preference for cotton in underwear; and 68 percent of female respondents said that they preferred cotton fiber in bras. It is also breathable and it helps wick body moisture away from the skin, which is an important feature in an undergarment, Kleinman confirms. Gale Epstein, Co-Founder and Creative Director of Hanky Panky, a popular line of undergarments best known for its comfortable thong, agrees. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated MY COMFY VALENTINE The Gift of Cotton Offers a Sweet Love Note Cotton is a very comfortable option. Michael Kleinman, Freshpair.com Underwear Male Natural fibers are softer to the skin and they breathe, Epstein adds, Hanky Panky is designed with a female interpretation of sexy: the feel of a soft fabric, a beautiful stretch lace finish instead of binding elastic. Being comfortable is sexy. There has an historic divide in what men want to buy and what women really want in intimate apparel. But that s changed over the years, observes Walter from The Pajama Store. Men are really getting clued in to how to buy intimate apparel for the women in their lives. They know it s about women, so they are buying all-cotton sassy pajamas and soft robes for their girlfriends and wives; they both find these garments sexy. Men have become so comfortable with buying intimates for women that they are branching out and buying garments for their mothers. They re buying sleep shirts that are comfy and cozy for their moms, Walters adds. Men have really evolved and recognize this is first and foremost in what women want from their sleepwear. Women, themselves may deserve some of credit for helping men along, asserts Hanky Panky s Epstein. According to her, women are speaking up and offering specifics about their undergarment preferences. By now, they know the thongs by style number and with one-size-fits-all, it s a goof-proof purchase, she says. Men are more at ease with this than ever. Men are also at ease with cotton in their own intimate apparel. According to the Monitor, 83 Female Cotton 98% 83% Nylon 0% 7% Silk 1% 4% Spandex 0% 2% Polyester 1% 0% Satin 0% 1% Rayon 0% 1% Other 0% 2% percent of men cited cotton as the preferred fiber for their sleepwear. We have noticed that men s sleepwear is trending towards cotton, says Kleinman, the retailer. Indeed, an astounding 98 percent of male respondents told the Monitor that they favored cotton for their in their boxers and briefs. Kleinman echoes that statistic, stating, Cotton boxers, t-shirts and pj pants are very popular! Considering the strong environmental gains cotton has made over the past two decades, the gift of a cotton garment is also a Valentine to the Earth, which is something most women appreciate in today s climate of ecosensitivity. According to the Monitor, a concern for the environment is a growing movement. Thirty percent of women surveyed currently say that environmental friendliness is an important consideration in her garment purchases, up from 23 percent last year. For those looking for an environmentallyfriendly option, cotton is renewable, sustainable and biodegradable, making it a great choice, Kleinman concludes. This story is one in a series of articles based on findings from Cotton Incorporated s Lifestyle Monitor tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the American consumer and her attitudes and behavior regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, fiber selection and many other timely, relevant subjects FASHION From Nicole Miller s engineered coats to Narciso Rodriguez s spare dresses, New York designers take on minimalism wasn t exactly simple. GENERAL Nordstrom s move to open its fi rst New York fl agship in the former Drake Hotel on Park Avenue isn t a done deal and it s looking at other sites. Jones Apparel Group narrowed its fourth-quarter loss and said it would expand its L.E.I. junior brand to Wal-Mart stores nationwide for fall. EYE: Dinner on the Upper East Side is rarely casual, but the party Marjorie Gubelmann hosted for Roberta Armani was more luxe than usual. Retailers received a double dose of good news, with a strong January sales report and the signing into law of an economic stimulus package. H&M will open its doors on London s Regent Street today, the fi rst of fi ve major U.K. fl agship launches planned for this year. Classifi ed Advertisements...19 To reporters and editors at WWD, the address is firstname. using the individual s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN ) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA , call , or visit Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY For permissions and reprint requests, please call or fax requests to Visit us online at To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA or call WOMEN S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. In Brief SEARS JOB CUTS: Sears Holdings Corp. plans on cutting 200 support jobs from its Hoffman Estates, Ill., headquarters, trimming 4 percent of its 5,000-strong workforce there. Last month, the corporate parent to Sears and Kmart said it would break its business into five units to streamline operations. As we ve previously stated, Sears Holdings results have not been satisfactory and because of that, as part of a continuing process, we are assessing our business priorities, cost structures and organization and, when and where necessary, we will be making adjustments, said a spokesman. This week, approximately 200 associates from our support center locations were impacted after a review of our organization. We offered those associates severance packages and outplacement services to assist with their transition. U.S. APPEALS WTO RULING: The U.S. has filed an appeal of a World Trade Organization compliance panel ruling last fall that affirmed Brazil s complaint that the U.S. had failed to fully implement judgments that found American cotton subsidies broke global trade rules. We believe that the changes made by the United States have brought its programs into full compliance with the WTO s recommendations and rulings in the original cotton case, said a spokeswoman for U.S. Trade Representative Susan Schwab. Brazilian trade officials have stated that if the U.S. loses the appeal, Brazil would have the right to retaliate for up to $1 billion a year in sanctions until Washington fully complies with the rulings. IP ENFORCEMENT UP: According to a report released Monday by Chris Israel, U.S. coordinator for International Intellectual Property Enforcement, the Department of Justice reported a 7 percent increase in intellectual property cases in fiscal year The Department of Justice filed 217 intellectual property cases in 2007 versus 204 in The number of cases filed increased 30 percent between 2007 and The number of defendants sentenced for intellectual property crimes increased 35 percent to 287 in fiscal year 2007 from 213 the prior year. The prosecutions in 2007 increased 92 percent from 2005 numbers. Correction The chief executive officer of Anchor Blue is Tom Sands. This was incorrect in a story on page 16, Wednesday.

5 After Strong Year, L Oréal Looks to 08 PARIS L Oréal reached its financial objectives for 2007 and is bullish on The French beauty giant registered its 23rd consecutive year of double-digit net earnings per share growth with a 13 percent increase. And, as reported, its revenues gained 8.1 percent, or 8 percent on a like-for-like basis, to billion euros, or $23.39 BEAUTY BEAT billion at average exchange. In August, company chief executive officer Jean-Paul Agon had raised the company s organic yearly sales growth target range to 7 to 8 percent, from 6 to 8 percent. L Oréal s net profits after minority interests which take into account nonrecurrent items, principally the capital gain on the disposal of Sanofi-Aventis shares, worth about 1.55 billion euros, or $2.26 billion at current exchange, on Nov. 14, 2007 rose 28.9 percent to 2.66 billion euros, or $3.64 billion. Dollar figures are at the average exchange rate. Commenting on the annual turnout in a statement, Agon said L Oréal s growth clearly outpaced that of the worldwide cosmetics market. All divisions gained market share, and the group improved its positions on all continents, he said. The group s results have once again advanced substantially and are of a very high quality. Jean-Paul Agon L Oréal s operating profit increased 11.3 percent to 2.83 billion euros, or $3.88 billion, in the period. Agon noted that on a comparable structure, excluding The Body Shop and L Oréal s professional U.S. hair salon distribution business, operating profit of 2.76 billion euros, or $3.79 billion, grew by 90 basis points to 17.1 percent. This was thanks to an improvement in gross profit and strict cost control. All divisions and zones contributed to this achievement, continued Agon. The profitability of the rest of the world zone has increased considerably; in absolute value, it is at the same level as North America. In 2007, L Oréal s operating profit in the rest of the world was 774 million euros, or $1.06 billion, whereas in North America, it was 773 million euros, or $1.059 billion. Agon highlighted that despite a negative impact of currency WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, Jones to Embrace Faster-Fashion Model By Vicki M. Young ones Apparel Group wants to be more Jlike H&M. The apparel vendor, which on Wednesday reported narrower fourthquarter losses, said it is looking to turn goods more quickly, aiming for the same fast-fashion model used by the Swedish retailer and its competitor, Zara. Wesley R. Card, Jones chief executive officer, told WWD that the company is pushing more toward following a speed-to-market approach. It s the Zara and H&M model [and] the way we need to be, he said. Jones is using the model for its Nine West sportswear line, which it will show to buyers next month for fall retailing. The vendor is reserving 20 to 25 percent of orders for reorders, for in-season delivery. To do this, Jones had to take fabric positions. But the quick turn about 10 weeks for reorders will allow for adjustments to meet the needs of retailers. Jones also is gearing up for a better Web portal to sell more brands online. Currently, Nine West, Easy Spirit and Bandolino footwear are available, but this will change come fall. The company has selected a new online platform, and plans to begin selling Jones New York apparel online during the fourth quarter. Anne Klein apparel is scheduled for early next year, with Anne Klein branded footwear and accessories to follow soon after. The company discussed these plans after reporting its fourth-quarter and yearend results and revealing a deal with Wal- Mart Stores Inc. for its L.E.I. junior brand. Wall Street applauded Jones L.E.I. deal, which is set to roll out in time for the back-to-school season, by sending shares of the apparel vendor up 11 percent to close at $ We see this as a great opportunity to utilize Jones operational skills in partnership with a retailer of Wal-Mart s size By Whitney Beckett he new owners of Ellen Tracy Tplan to maintain the label as a bridge brand and license it out, according to sources. Liz Claiborne Inc. s sale of Ellen Tracy to a consortium of buyers led by Windsong Brands and Radius Group for an estimated $50 million in cash and a contingent payment was expected to close overnight. The first task will be to find a designer. George Sharp resigned as vice president of design last month to join St. John as executive vice president of design. Most of the staff will be retained. The next step will be a battle to reclaim the volume that the traditional bridge brand has lost. When Claiborne acquired Ellen Tracy in 2002, it did $171 million in volume, but sources estimated that it now does less than $75 million. The slide has been propelled by changes in the bridge market, product issues and recent economic woes. In addition, retailers have been making conservative purchases involving all of Claiborne s brands that are on review because of uncertainty about whether they will be sold down channel, like fellow bridge brand Dana Buchman, which Claiborne licensed to Kohl s last month. Only two brands, Mac & Jac and Kensie, of the 16 that Claiborne placed on strategic review in July remain on sale. The $4.99 billion vendor set a deadline at the end of the first quarter to decide the fates of all the brands. Wesley R. Card and scale. We are confident that with this partnership with Wal-Mart, there is excellent potential to grow and leverage the strength of L.E.I. as a branded resource across categories, said Card. For the quarter ended Dec. 31, the loss narrowed to $89.8 million, or $1.06 a diluted share, from a year-ago loss of $269.5 million, or $2.51. On an adjusted basis excluding the sale of Barneys New York, restructuring charges and the impairment of certain goodwill and trademarks, diluted earnings per share were 9 cents versus 32 cents last year. Total revenues fell 16.7 percent to $838.5 million from $1.01 billion. Sales dropped 16.3 percent to $822.4 million from $983.2 million, with the balance of revenues primarily from licensing income. Of the total sales, retail sales were $211.8 million, down by 14 percent as quarterly same-store sales declined by 4.8 percent. Card said the company s wholesale businesses were negatively impacted by higher-than-planned markdowns to support our retail partners. For the year, net income came in at $311.1 million, or $3.07 a diluted share, against a loss of $144.1 million, or $1.30 a share, in 2006, as total revenues fell 5.8 percent to $3.85 billion from $4.09 billion. The gross margin rate for the year fell to 32.2 percent from 34.6 percent. The company conservatively forecast fiscal 2008 diluted EPS guidance, on an adjusted basis for continuing operations, at between $1.25 and $1.50, compared with adjusted 2007 diluted EPS of $1.26. The wide range of expected earnings is large, the company said, because of the uncertainty in the economy. Card said he has a plan to deal with the slowdown, though. The best way to combat that is with great product, he said. John McClain, chief financial officer, said the economy seems to be in a consumer-led recession, but noted that, because the firm s brands aren t impacted by the pullback at the entry level on the lower end, nor are they affected by the presumed slowdown in luxury, the Jones product can do well in a recession environment. Women love shoes and handbags, and they will buy, McClain said. The cfo also noted that, for retail and apparel firms, by the time we find out we are in a recession, we are [usually] coming out of it. The former Anne Klein stores the company operated will be converted to Anne Klein stores selling just shoes and handbags. Card said the sites are prime real estate locations, and that the model the company will follow will be the one used overseas. Another growth initiative in the works is that the junior denim team will be working with retailers such as Macy s to expand the chain s private label jeanswear offerings. Looking at the L.E.I. deal from Wal-Mart s perspective, the addition of the brand adds bulk to its apparel lineup, which the retailer is revamping. In August, Wal-Mart inked an exclusive deal with Iconix Brand Group to carry the Ocean Pacific and Op brands. Deciding to carry Ocean Pacific was seen by industry analysts as a way to improve Wal-Mart s fashion sense. Two years ago, Wal-Mart had pulled its trend-right Metro 7 line from 500 stores following an ambitious Eight of the 16 brands have been sold, one is being kept, one is being licensed, two were folded into other brands, two were closed and two are still up for grabs. The brands together did about $800 million in sales, and so far Claiborne has gotten more than $125 million for the sold lines ($50 million in the latest deal, $37 million from Perry Ellis for C&C California and Laundry in January, as much as $40.5 million for Prana in a management buyout in expansion. In women s wear, Wal-Mart has its George line front and center. Currently, Wal-Mart s junior offering is composed of licensed and private label goods. The Ocean Pacific line is expected to be rolled out slowly. When announced last year, a Wal-Mart spokeswoman described Op as a youth brand focused on the surf lifestyle that will help expand the range of our apparel offering. Meanwhile, last year, Jones said it was breathing new life into the L.E.I. junior denim brand with an updated look for fall. The update included new packaging, labels and advertising as well as a deeper push on the Internet. Stores have a lot of respect for L.E.I. Brand awareness and consumer loyalty have been very, very good, Jack Gross, ceo of Jones denim and juniors businesses, told WWD at the time. The only thing constant in juniors is change. By giving the brand a facelift and modernizing it and bringing it into this time period, it brings excitement at retail. Jones acquired L.E.I., which stands for Life, Energy and Intelligence, in 2002 for $385 million. Analyst Jennifer Black, of the firm that bears her name, said in a research note, Wes Card and the management of Jones Apparel Group are slowly, methodically and effectively managing the assets of Jones to make the most of what they have. The backdrop is challenging, but that is also providing opportunities such as the announced initiative with Wal-Mart to produce and provide junior denim bottoms and knit tops under their L.E.I. brand, with opportunity to expand to other lifestyle categories in the future. Black said that, in a slow growth environment with inflationary tendencies in the production of apparel and accessories, Jones is well placed to compete on competencies such as operational and design strengths at moderate price points. fluctuations, which amounted to negative 3.5 percent during 2007 and was more pronounced in the fourth quarter, net earnings per share growth reached 13 percent to 3.36 euros, or $4.61. On like-for-like exchange, gains would have hit 15.9 percent. As for 2008, we are optimistic despite the uncertainties of the economic environment, said Agon. In fact, our business has always proven extremely resilient during periods of crisis. We intend to continue strengthening our positions and grow faster than the market. And the large proportion of our sales now made in new and very fastgrowing markets is providing a powerful relay for our global growth. We are confident, therefore, about our ability in 2008 to once again achieve sales growth in our target range of 6 to 8 percent, like-for-like. Jennifer Weil With Deal in Place, Ellen Tracy Set to Move Forward February, plus the undisclosed amount Li & Fung USA paid for moderate brands Emma James, Tapemeasure, JH Collectibles and Intuitions in September). Claiborne also is making money off its licensing deal with Kohl s for Dana Buchman and is keeping Enyce, which it hopes to grow. Moderate private label brands Stamp 10 and Tint were folded into the Axcess and Liz & Co. lines in September, while Sears-exclusive First Issue and better brand Sigrid Olsen were shuttered.

6 4 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Gigi Mortimer and Tory Burch with Kerry Washington in Armani Privé. Under the Weather Marjorie Gubelmann in Giorgio Armani. Fé Fendi Parker Posey in Cynthia Rowley. Poppy Delevigne in Giorgio Armani. Dinner on the Upper East Side is rarely a casual affair, but there were signs Tuesday night that the party Marjorie Gubelmann was hosting for Roberta Armani and the tome Inheriting Beauty was more luxe than usual. For one thing, a topic of conversation among guests during cocktails was the best mode of transport for getting from Gstaad to St. Moritz. Car or helicopter? wondered one. Secondly, the hostess set an over-the-top tone early by breaking out the good stuff, namely a gigantic diamond drop necklace. Marjorie, I can t stop staring at your neck, said Tory Burch midway through the meal of veal saltimbocca. I can t either. I m going cross-eyed, Gubelmann replied. It s very at home, don t you think? Meanwhile, Gigi Mortimer was schooling London transplant Poppy Delevigne (who moved here last weekend) on navigating her new hood. Fat men pee loudly: Fifth, Madison, Park, Lexington, she instructed Delevigne in an unforgettable mnemonic. After dinner, guests such as Eva Lorenzotti, Alessandro Nivola and Alex Kramer moved to the living room for cigarettes and gossip while Armani, Kerry Washington and Delevigne took to the dance floor with wild abandon. Downtown, the snowy, slushy weather didn t keep the likes of Parker Posey, Alan Cumming and Amanda Brooks from attending the New York Academy of Art s TriBeCa Ball. The event, which had been decidedly more buttoned up in years past (it was traditionally black tie) boasted a funkier feel this time around cocktails held amid tableaux vivants in upstairs classrooms (in one, a performance artist swallowed a balloon whole) and a bohemian chic dress code (which prompted some to don turbans and headdresses). Meanwhile, a newly blonde Anna Paquin gamely trekked across the East River for the Brooklyn Academy of Music s gala, sleet be damned, so she could see her X-Men co-star Patrick Stewart take on the title role of Macbeth. Also in the crowd were similarly stalwart supporters Alex Katz, Lou Reed and Laurie Anderson. But perhaps Stewart was too believable as the ruthless tyrant: The actress left at intermission. As for the Britishborn actor, he found the weather befuddling: I was trying to figure out what kind of omen it was before the show tonight, he said. This is normal for New Yorkers, but we haven t seen snow in several years. The next afternoon, Jennifer Creel, Sandy Hill, Mica Ertegün and Coco Kopelman braved a torrential downpour to attend the Chopard-sponsored New York City Ballet annual luncheon. The program this year, entitled Ballet Is Man Too!, featured a series of allmale solos from various Balanchine works. It s so refreshing because the men are so often overlooked, enthused Fé Fendi, adding, And they were handsome, too! After the group enjoyed chicken salad and tarte tatin on the New York State Theater s Promenade, co-chair Nina Griscom gave kudos to her fellow stylish ladies before revealing the winners of raffle prizes from donors like Valentino and Hermès. Thank you for coming out on this really heinous hair day, she said. Alex Kramer in Giorgio Armani with Dan Baker. Olivia Chantecaille in Giorgio Armani. Anna Paquin in Juicy Couture. Valesca Guerrand-Hermès and Eva Lorenzotti Roberta Armani Patrick Stewart with his co-star, Kate Fleetwood. ARMANI PARTY PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD; PAQUIN, STEWART AND FLEETWOOD BY ELENA OLIVO; POSEY BY JIMI CELESTE; FENDI BY KYLE ERICKSEN

7 Fashion Scoops DEJA VU: It s happened again. Someone stole an outfit just before my show, said Christopher Kane with a serious face, before bursting out laughing. Just kidding, interjected the designer, whose key pieces were stolen a week before his show in September. Kane was unwinding at London s Bungalow 8 after his show earlier Tuesday. He partied with Amy Sacco, Kelly Osbourne, Agyness Deyn, Louise Goldin, Tim Jefferies and even his own elderly Scottish relatives until 2 a.m. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, KISA CRISIS: I m exhausted. I just got back from a week skiing, and I m working my fetish shoes I m in agony, said Margo Stilley, pointing to her black patent leather torture devices at the Kisa show Tuesday night. Nonetheless, Stilley, who was wearing a shiny black Kisa dress, managed to make it through the show where Naomi Campbell and Lily Donaldson showed off a mix of feminine and masculine silhouettes. There were billowing silk shirts worn with high-waisted microskirts, soft tailored trousers in flannel and cashmere and oversize winter coats were slung over the most delicate of dresses. BAMFORD BABES: A good blow-dry is an absolute necessity. Let someone else do the work for you! said Camilla Al Fayed, doling out party tips Tuesday night during the Bamford & Sons boutique launch at Harrods. I shouldn t really say this, but I always use fake eyelashes. They are essential for the evening. As one of the hostesses of the evening, Al Fayed entertained guests including Anouck Lepère, Dan MacMillan, Andrea Dellal and Philip Treacy for the soiree. Lepère, a model, also had parties on the brain, namely her birthday celebrations: It s tomorrow, and I m doing a show. But I love working on my birthday. You get more attention! VIVA VIVIENNE?: Vivienne Westwood may be known for her left-wing political sympathies, but when it comes to her parties, she s no champion of the masses. At a much-hyped soiree to fete Vivienne Westwood Opus, the designer s latest coffee-table book, a shivering horde of guests was left out in the cold after the Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens filled to capacity within minutes. Clipboard-wielding public relations reps were at a loss to distinguish between VIPs, press and passing celeb spotters, while security staff attempted to force London It girl Fiona Scarry shuddering in her sky-high heels two elderly women and a 50-strong crowd of would-be revelers into an orderly line. Inside, Gabriella Windsor, Camilla Rutheford, Erin O Connor and Laura Bailey sipped Champagne and schmoozed with Westwood and her gang. BALENCIAGA HAS A BALL: The fact that it was a school night for many of the guests didn t dampen the buzz at a cocktail to mark the opening of Balenciaga s first London store on Mount Street Tuesday night. I m filming [the sixth Harry Potter film] at the moment, so I can t do anything during the day, lamented the ultrapetite Emma Watson, explaining her absence from London s front rows during fashion week. So she took it upon herself to make the most of her time in Balenciaga s Space Age wonderland of a store, whipping through pieces from the floral spring collection hanging on the rails. Guests including Charlotte Gainsbourg, Nicky Haslam, Pat McGrath and host Nicolas Ghesquière meandered through the labyrinthine store, sipping gin and tonics and Xhampagne to the sounds of the eerie, electronic music that s piped through the shop. STELLA GOES SHOPPING: So sorry I m late I m sure you ve got more important things to do, joked Stella McCartney to photographers and fans at the launch of the The World of Stella two-week promotional event at Selfridges, Wednesday. Dressed in head-to-toe black, she sported her trademark blazer turned up at the lapel, and killer heels. And, while McCartney may have oozed effortless chic, it was in spite of a grueling schedule. I should be saying I m getting a good night s sleep, but it s not true I get no sleep, said the designer, who gave birth to her third child, Beckett, last month, and is currently working on her fall collection, which makes its debut in two weeks. It s always nerve-wracking in the last 10 days leading up to the show, but I had a good fitting yesterday and I m feeling happy about it, she quipped. EDUN GETS DARK: It might have been the snowiest New York night so far, but that didn t stop U2 frontman Bono from joining his wife, designer Ali Hewson, at the fall presentation of Edun. Held at The Historic Desmond Tutu Center, models stood in a completely dark room, only lit by spotlights over their heads. The theme was night and darkness, which is why it s so dark in here, Hewson explained of the collection, which is now in its seventh season. Hewson was designing the collection with the help of Rogan Gregory of Rogan, who in November won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Bono with Helena Christensen. Fund Award, pocketing $200,000 and a year of mentoring from an industry executive. Since Rogan won the CFDA award, he really needs more time to work on pushing himself forward, so after fall, we won t have him anymore, which makes me sad, but I m very happy for him and we are still great friends. I just miss seeing him every day. Meanwhile, Bono walked in with some friends Helena Christensen, Josh Hartnett and Michael Stipe. They sat in the corner on some V.I.P. couches while bodyguards only allowed photographers to take photos. They are not doing any interviews, a guard said to a disappointed onlooker. PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN Fall Girl Giorgio Armani gave his Armani Collezioni label a feminine touch for fall, with ruffled tops and flowy dresses. As retailers demand color, he delivered a strong palette and rich prints. And no Armani lineup would be complete without a bit of luxe, like fur trim on a shrunken leather jacket or dramatic shearling coats. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO

8 6 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Spare in Mind Fall had its minimal side, with designers opting for stripped-down looks. But whether it s Nicole Miller s elegantly engineered coats or Narciso Rodriguez s constructed dresses, today s take on minimalism is anything but simple.

9 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, Doo.Ri Jonathan Saunders Tommy Hilfiger Rag & Bone PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA

10 8 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 In the Mix full-skirted Nicole Farhi London designers are going their own ways for fall, turning out looks that range from sleek tailored suits to fanciful, dresses. Todd Lynn Richard Nicoll Nathan Jenden Richard Nicoll: It may have been inspired by the Amish, but Richard Nicoll s collection was far from staid or dour. The designer put a sexy spin on some austere silhouettes, turning out sheer shirts with biblike collars, layered chiffon and silk skirts, and diaphanous floor-length shirtdresses worn over trousers. He also worked some tailored pieces into the collection, toying with tuxedo trousers and jacket shapes. Nathan Jenden: Dressed as geisha, Pierrots and Tudor ladies, Nathan Jenden s girls flocked to a decadent masquerade ball. The designer s emphasis this season was on richly embellished fabrics in pieces such as a cobalt blue dress covered in what looked like tiny silk pincushions. Despite Jenden s fanciful tone, there were plenty of wearable party dresses, including a bronze beaded strapless cocktail number, pencil skirts and glamorous evening coats. Todd Lynn: Todd Lynn conjured up his favorite Victorian-Goth muse, but also injected some Fifties Hitchcock glamour into the mix for fall. There were sharp pencil-skirted suits, sexy smoking jackets and sleek, form-fitting cocktail dresses in dark, moody hues. And Lynn embraced quirky, modern details, too, including deconstructed pockets and plenty of pleats. Meadham Kirchhoff Nicole Farhi: Drawing on an Alpine idyll for inspiration, Nicole Farhi turned out a fall collection filled with sleek olive wool overcoats, cropped army-inspired jackets and knit tunics with tiny geometric patterns. Her dresses, however, were the season s standouts: There were coppery-gold ones that flared at the waist, gray wool sleeveless shifts and a belted cream coatdress. Farhi has a loyal customer base of women of a certain age, but her well-made collections could still use a little pick-me-up. Roksanda Ilincic: Roksanda Ilincic turned out a refined collection of her signature silk and satin dresses for fall. They came in the form of chocolate and peach Empire shapes with trains that pooled on the floor and long pewter or neon pink dresses with poufs at the waist or sculpted, pointy shoulders. There also were cocoon coats and stoles lavished with fur. Jens Laugesen: Jens Laugesen needs to kiss Catwoman goodbye and embrace a younger muse. The designer s skintight silhouettes black catsuits and tourniquetlike cobalt trousers were extreme, but, in a triumph of innocence over experience, his gentler styles were the ones that hit the mark. These included full black-and-blue silk skirts, high-waisted black dresses shot through with shiny gold threads and a ruffled, robin s egg blue shirtdress. Krystof Strozyna: In his first collection after graduating from Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design last year, Krystof Strozyna packed a punch. The designer turned out tight minidresses with sculptural shoulders in white, hot pink and black, accessorizing them with huge lacquered wood bangles and brooches. Meadham Kirchhoff: Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff s moody collection featured mohair sweaters worn with draped satin skirts and pointy-shouldered, tailored jackets with nubby wool pencil skirts. The collection overall was drab, and the standouts were the tailored pieces. Fashion East: London s new kids on the block shared their Roksanda Ilincic visions at the Fashion East showcase for young design talent. Louise Gray s layered chiffon shifts in neon pinks and greens with zips and chiffon appliqués were highlights, while JJ Hudson of Noki sent out a typically aggressive collection of shredded and customized leather jackets and vintage cartoon T-shirts with intricately crocheted attached hoods. The equally fierce rocker Skin from Skunk Anansie even made an appearance in the show. Meanwhile, David Saunders, designer of David David, worked his red, yellow, pink and purple geometric prints onto trenchcoats and rockabilly-style high-waisted trousers. LONDON fall 08 Jens Laugesen House of Holland House of Holland: London s DJ-cum-designer-cum-man about town Henry Holland, who made his name with T-shirts poking fun at models and fellow designers, showed a wacky collection that took its cue from the Scottish Highlands. He sent out kilts and tiered skirts in hot pink mohair or purple-and-green tartans so short they could have doubled as underwear. It was a cartoonish romp through the heather, and it s likely that the most salable items will be the oversize orange-and-blue mohair sweaters for those who love being the center of attention. Krystof Strozyna PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI

11 Milan Preview WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, SceneA few new places to hit for a little R&R during a hectic show week. By Chiara Hughes HIGH-END RENEWAL Get in shape in high style in Milan s first seven-star gym, Younique. The exclusive fitness club and spa boasts a luxury package of personal programs, cool design, unique machinery, privacy and service members find workout attire is freshly laundered and folded in a personal dressing room in the heart of the city. But staying fit here doesn t come cheap: an annual membership to the 18,300-square-foot, two-level complex runs $9,200. I wanted to create a temple for those who live in a frantic city and need to reinvigorate themselves and renew their energy and creativity, said Livio Leardi, Younique s founder. On the ground floor, an oasis includes a fitness area with bikes and treadmills, Pilates and Kinesis sessions with a maximum of four trainees at a time and personal training programs. The lower level houses a beauty area and luxury thermal zone that includes a 215-square-foot swimming pool, a hydromassage, a sauna with a glamorous Swarovski crystal ceiling and a Turkish bath with hot tubs. Other features include a state-ofthe-art body-age evaluation machine that reveals one s biological age, custom training programs and an emotional session with LCD screens and smells based on an individual s cardio program replicating a walk on the beach or a mountain trek. Younique, 5 Via Falcone; WHERE THE ELITE MEET Savini has always been a place to see and be seen. Opened in 1867 on the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, just a few steps from the city s Gothic Duomo, the restaurant was known as Milan s drawing room, attracting top politicos, artists, composers and performers, such as Maria Callas, Charlie Chaplin, Grace Kelly and Ava Gardner. After a four-year hiatus and complete restyling, the historic threefloor boîte reopened this year under new management, ready to reclaim its post as a favorite destination of Milan s elite. Spread over three floors, its Swarovski crystal chandeliers and period furnishings make for a sophisticated interior. On the ground level, guests find the newly minted patisserie corner where they can sip cappuccinos and snack on homemade sweets along the long cherrywood bar. An adjacent cafe serves up Italian classics until 11 p.m. An emporium on the lower level sells everything from food and candles to flatware and leather accessories for men and women. The jewel, however, is the Belle Epoque restaurant on the first floor, which highlights Savini s long culinary tradition. The menu features classic Milanese fare, with dishes like saffron risotto and ossobuco. Private dining rooms for parties of up to eight put the power back into power lunches, and a wine list of more than 500 vintages rounds out the offering. Savini, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II; A private changing room at the Younique gym. The lounge area at Farenight. The renovated Savini. AN INTIMATE AFFAIR In the trendy Corso Como area, Farenight isn t the city s newest nightspot, but it s certainly one of the most exclusive for intimate, discreet parties and fashionable events. Last year, YSL, Gucci and the Estée Lauder Cos. all picked the club for events, while Beyoncé Knowles also hit Farenight s dance floor. Sophisticated and modern, the club carves out a restaurant, a lounge and dance floors that, after midnight, become one large dance area where experts can even pirouette on the sofas. And if New Yorkers love to sip their Manhattan cocktails, Farenight offers Milano, its signature cocktail with a strong ginger flavor. Farenight, 10 Via Giuseppe Ferrari; MARRAS IN MILAN Mixing work and pleasure, Antonio Marras will inaugurate his first Milan flagship with a cocktail party on Wednesday. Located in the heart of the city at 14 Santo Spirito, opposite the Balenciaga outpost, the 1,076- square-foot space will sell the men s and women s collections as well as accessories displayed in antique wood showcases. As soon as I saw this space, I recognized it as my new perfect wünderkammer because aside from the clothing lines, I can collect and display all sorts of antique objects, fabrics, drawings, papers and books, said Marras. That s because, just like an archaeologist rebuilds history from fragments of the past, Marras turns to past artistic influences for inspiration for his collections. The flagship incorporates vintage furnishings such as antique stained-glass interior doors, hand-picked by the designer on various trips. The floor is old French oak parquet combined with stucco decorations illuminated by a dropcrystal chandelier. Antonio Marras, 14 Via Santo Spirito; A WHIFF OF PARIS On Wednesday, Roger Vivier s creative director, Bruno Frisoni, and his muse-ambassador, Ines de la Fressange, will host an exclusive cocktail party to fete the opening of the brand s first Italian flagship. The 2,700-square-foot boutique is housed in an 18th-century palazzo, personally chosen by Diego Della Valle, Vivier s owner. It is spread over three levels with a private salon for receiving international celebrities and other VIPs. Thanks to large windows and an internal crystal elevator, the mood is airy and luminous. The store mirrors the decor found in Vivier s Parisian flagship, which was inspired by the founding designer s own Quai d Orsay apartment. Clients will find an elegant and eclectic mix of French antiques, African tribal art and cutting-edge consoles and mirrors by French furniture designer Hervé Van der Straeten. Up next for Vivier: Tokyo. Roger Vivier, 17 Via Sant Andrea; BEAUTY TREATMENT Stepping inside Jo Malone s first Italian flagship is like entering the famous English shop on London s Walton Street. The original philosophies, product collections, in-store experience and first-class service are perfectly replicated in the 1,076-square-foot ivory white space in Milan. The heady selection of 200 fine perfumes and skin care products encourages a hands-on experience for customers. One can choose sweet scents such as Lime Basil & Mandarin, Orange Blossom and Pomegranate Noir, but an exclusive fragrance-building service allows shoppers to mix a few ingredients for a custom blend. A small central oasis is also the strategic stop for a relaxing hand treatment even without an appointment to relieve the day s stress. Jo Malone, 12 Santa Maria alla Porta; PHOTO BY KHEPRI STUDIO

12 10 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Milan Preview Ones to Watch Fashion Normaluisa Where and when: Based in Milan, the brand was launched in 2005 and will show Sunday at 5 p.m., at 58 Corso Italia. Who: Since its inception, the person behind Normaluisa has remained a tightly guarded secret, which has added to the brand s appeal. What s known is that the person graduated with a degree in business from a university, took a styling class, holds a master s degree in marketing and now coordinates a design team. Apparently, though, fashion runs in this person s veins, as his family owned a textile company in the 18th century. Why: Normaluisa s mission is to shun excess in favor of good taste with an edge, via sophisticated color combinations and details. Anything that is too experimental, ostentatious or impractical doesn t belong here. Sharon Stone and Charlotte Casiraghi have been spotted wearing Normaluisa clothes. What: For fall, the collection focuses on colors, textures, geometries and trompe l oeil effects that suggest rhythm. Aside from traditional fabrics, Normaluisa employs plastic and upholstery materials for simple and geometric styles in powder beige, pansy blue, river green and skyscraper gray. How much: Wholesale prices range from $58 for a top to $161 for a dress to $584 for coats. Where to buy: The line is carried by Giò Moretti in Milan, S. Carlo in Turin, Montaigne Market in Paris and Mercury in Mosca. week always brims with the possibility of discovering new names. Here are some fresh faces with varied histories that will present their fall wares next week. Les Hommes-Femmes Where and when: A small women s collection bowed in 2006 but fall marks the line s first real presentation during Milan Fashion Week in their designers new showroom at 6 Via Bergamo. Who: Belgian designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch launched the successful men s wear label Les Hommes in 2002, now available in 87 points of sales worldwide. Both designers graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and have worked together ever since. Vandebosch has always nurtured a passion for art, while Notte originally signed up to study economic sciences. He later defected to graphic and fashion design classes. Their work is the result of the union of their sensibilities and different visions. Why: With the women s line, the duo wants to offer a contemporary creativity by combining contrasting elements that work once they re unified. Silhouettes are sculptured and sharp, but at the same time poetic and elegant and punctuated with sartorial details. What: For fall, they draw from couture s heyday with a nod to Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga. The lineup includes balloon coats with double collars, asymmetrical necklines that transform into draped lapels, sumptuous skirts and dresses and men s wear fabrics. The palette includes all shades of gray, plunging into black, with accents of red and gold for printed silks. How much: Jackets and coats wholesale for an average of $584; skirts range from $256 to $731. Where to buy: The line is carried by Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Saks Fifth Avenue in Dubai, Tsum in Moscow, Verso in Antwerp and Tokyo s Restir. I m Isola Marras I m Isola Marras When and where: Antonio Marras secondary line will make its debut Feb. 18 during an art exhibition called Circolo Marras hosted by the designer at his showroom, 8 Via Cola di Rienzo. Who: It s the young and contemporary vision of Antonio Marras, who also designs a namesake line and is Kenzo s creative director. Marras is known for his skill in melding contrasting fabrics, cutting soft shapes and liberally applying drapes, undertucks and ruffles. Why: The name comes from Marras native island, Sardinia, where he still has a design studio. Casual and affordable, the new line is licensed to Italian manufacturer Interfashion, owned by Stefanel Group. With the 190-piece lineup, Marras wants to reach a wider and younger crowd. I m Isola represents my B side, the most joyous and playful part of myself, said Marras. Interfashion is one of the top producers and distributors of high-end jeans and casualwear. We have experimented a lot with fabrics and furnishing. The result is a very strong collection based on Marras design codes, said Interfashion chief executive Gino Trentin. Interfashion hopes to secure more than 800 points of sales worldwide in two years, with wholesale volume of 25 million euros, or $36 million, over the same period. What: For fall, Marras worked his signature mix-and-match vision by liberally melding denim, tartan, stripes, prints and red and white polkadots. Colors are a fresh mix of red, turquoise, orange and yellow combined with grey, black and white. How much: Retail prices range from $218 for slim-fit jeans to $640 for a blouson jacket and $1,000 for a quilted coat. Steinunn Where and when: Steinunn Sigurd went solo in 2000, when the designer, who hails from Iceland, returned to her homeland to find her roots. Her collection will launch Feb. 23 at 2 Via Valenza as one of the designers promoted by White Club, a nonprofit organization that supports emerging talents. Who: Sigurd has years of experience at Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Gucci and La Perla and is now backed by investors at Baugur Group. The 46-year-old Sigurd works with prints from artists, and her textures are inspired by nature. She uses fabrics from Scotland, Italy and England and mixes materials and textures, like fur strips and wool, mohair with glitter, or rayon knitted with ruffles. Sigurd continues to work Normaluisa Steinunn Les Hommes-Femmes Kristian Aadvenik out of Reykjavik and counts a store in the city. This land is enormously beautiful, the textures in the country are mind-blowing, she said. The collection is made in Copenhagen, the Baltic countries, Italy and Hong Kong and is available at 16 stores around the world, including Takashimaya in New York. How much: Wholesale prices range from $223 for a knitted dress to $590 for a woven one. Pants wholesale at about $247 and skirts at $386. The designer also is an art buff, teaches at art schools and collects Icelandic modern art works. What: For fall, Sigurd draws inspiration from Iceland s volcanic land and contrasts and an old crochet technique. The designs blend soft and feminine touches with more primitive aesthetics, she said. Accordingly, chiffon blouses are mixed with lavalike textures, and a mostly black and blue palette is enriched with orange. Shapes are long and lean. Kristian Aadvenik Where and when: After showing off-calendar in London, Aadvenik is promoted by White Club and will present on Feb. 22 at 4:30 at 2 Via Valenza. Who: Born in Norway, Aadvenik, 30, graduated from the Royal College of Art in London in 2002 and launched his own line in 2004 after working for Harrods International, Charles Jourdan and Alexander McQueen. Why: He s on people s radar because his Gothic and rock n roll style caught Donatella Versace s eye, who picked him as her protégé for an Australian Merino project last month. What: Inspired by his travels, for fall Aadvenik mixes feminine and romantic looks contrasting with hard rock and Gothic designs. He explores the East and Transylvania (Gothic), the underground London club scene (rock) and Paris (romantic). The materials and colors reflect the contrasts, with jersey and floaty chiffon juxtaposed with leather and more tailored pieces. Dark metallics are lightened up by streaks of gold, silver or fuchsia. I don t want a look or a silhouette to be too feminine or girly, said the designer. How much: The collection wholesales from $487 to $584. Where to buy: Available at boutiques such as The Shop at Bluebird, London; Plumage, Moscow; Bugatti, Dubai, and La Vetrina di Beryl, Milan. Alessandra Ilari, Chiara Hughes and Luisa Zargani STEINUNN PHOTO BY VIGFUS BIRGISSON

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14 12 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Milan Preview Show Calendar Following is the schedule for the women s ready-to-wear shows, Feb. 16 to 23, courtesy of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. The main show venue, Milano Moda Donna, is located at 5 Via Gattamelata. Times and locations are accurate as of press time, but visitors are encouraged to confirm all information. SATURDAY, FEB a.m.: Elena Miro, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 11:45 a.m.: Roberta Scarpa, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 12:30 p.m.: Clips, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 1:30 p.m.: RoccoBarocco, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Montenapoleone 2:30 p.m.: Simonetta Ravizza, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 3:30 p.m.: Lorenzo Riva, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 4:30 p.m.: Seduzioni Diamonds Valeria Marni, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Montenapoleone 5:15 p.m.: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 6:30 p.m.: Francesco Scognamiglio, 16 Corso Venezia 7:30 p.m.: Sonia Fortuna, 58 Corso Italia Presentations 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: Gattinoni, 5 Via Serbelloni 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Fisico, 15/A Via Manin 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Fuzzi, 1 Via Spiga 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Pierantonio Gaspari, 12 Via Sant Andrea 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Pianurastudio, Milano Moda 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Moreschi, Milano Moda Donna, Spazio Moreschi 2-7 p.m.: Anna Rachele, 6/A Via Montenapoleone 4-8 p.m.: Giorgio Grati, 10 Via Montenapoleone 4:30-7:30 p.m.: La Petit Rose di Chiara Boni, 19 Via Monte di Pietà 5-9 p.m.: VDP Via Delle Perle, 7 Piazza Diaz 6-8 p.m.: Antonio Fusco, 11 Via Sant Andrea SUNDAY, FEB. 17 9:45 a.m.: Enrico Coveri, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 10:30 a.m.: Kristina Ti, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 11:15 a.m.: Blugirl, Milano Moda Donna Velodromo Vigorelli Noon: Frankie Morello, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 1 p.m.: Gaetano Navarra, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 2 p.m.: Thes & Thes by Thes Tziveli, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 3 p.m.: Just Cavalli, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Senato 4 p.m. (press) and 5 p.m. (buyers): Emporio Armani, 59 Via Bergognone 5 p.m.: Normaluisa, 58 Corso Italia 6 p.m. (buyers) and 7 p.m. (press): Missoni. 34 Via Turati 7 p.m.: Maria Calderara, 15 Via Lazzaretto 8 p.m.: Moschino Cheap & Chic, 5 Via Bezzecca 9 p.m.: Derercuny, 58 Corso Italia Presentations 9 a.m.-4 p.m.: Moreschi, Milano Moda Donna, Spazio Moreschi 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Taviani, 1 Via Tommaso Grossi 4-7 p.m.: C.P. Company, 54 Via Savona MONDAY, FEB. 18 9:15 a.m.: Paola Frani, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 9:15 a.m.: Belstaff, 35 Via Solari 10 a.m.: C N C Costume National Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 11 a.m. (press) and Noon (buyers): Giorgio Armani, 59 Via Bergognone 1 p.m.: Alberta Ferretti, 10 Via Senato 2 p.m.: Pringle of Scotland, Via Turati, 34 3 p.m.: D&G, 24 Viale Piave, 24 4 p.m.: Haute, 34 Via Turati 5 p.m. (press) and 6 p.m. (buyers): Gianfranco Ferré, 21 Via Pontaccio 6 p.m.: Debora Sinibaldi, 10 Via Clerici 7 p.m.: Burberry Prorsum, 16 Corso Venezia 7 p.m.: Daniela Gregis, 23/A Piazza Sant Ambrogio 8 p.m.: Jil Sander, 5 Via Beltrami Presentations 9 a.m.-6 p.m.: Schumacher, 13 Via Senato 9 a.m.-7 p.m.: Ballantyne, 49 Corso Italia 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m.: Antonio Marras, 8 Via Cola di Rienzo 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m.: Brunello Cucinelli, 16 Viale Montello 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m.: Gunex, 16 Viale Montello 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m.: Rivamonti, 56 Viale Montello 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Hogan, 56 Via Savona 10 a.m.- 7 p.m.: Mario Valentino, 27 Via Borgonuovo 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Gas, 27 Via Tortona 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m.: Shiró, 3 Piazza San Marco Noon-7 p.m.: Jimmy Choo, 7 Via Manzoni 2:30-7:30 p.m.: Tomaso Stefanelli, 4 Via Pietro Mascagni 3-7 p.m.: New York Industrie, 12 Via Sant Andrea 5-9 p.m.: Twin DDM, 27 Via Solferino TUESDAY, FEB. 19 9:15 a.m.: Moschino, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Senato 10 a.m.: Sportmax, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Babila 10:45 a.m.: Blumarine, Milano Moda Donna Velodromo Vigorelli 11:30 a.m.: La Perla, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Montenapoleone 12:15 p.m.: Salvatore Ferragamo, 6 Piazza Affari 1 p.m.: Bottega Veneta, 15/17 Viale Piceno 2 p.m.: Etro, 14 Via Piranesi 3 p.m.: Albino, 48 Via San Barnaba 4 p.m.: Alberto Biani, 42 Viale Piave 5 p.m.: Pollini by Rifat Ozbek, 5 Via Bezzecca 6 p.m. (buyers) and 7 p.m. (press): Prada, 36 Via Fogazzaro 8 p.m.: 6267, 12 Via Besana 9 p.m.: Anteprima, Largo Marinai d Italia Presentations 9 a.m.-7 p.m.: Bulgari, 7/B Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 9:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m.: Bally, 11/A Via Bigli 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Fay, 14 Via Palestro 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Mario Valentino, 27 Via Borgonuovo 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Stefano Serapian, 17 Via Sant Andrea 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Collection N.3 designed by Christian Weber, 6 Via Sant Andrea 1-5 p.m.: Antonella Manoli, 24 Via Bigli 1-9 p.m.: Armando do Vincentiis, 42 Viale Piave 1-8 p.m.: Martino Midali, 23 Via Fratelli Bronzetti 2-11 p.m.: Piazza Sempione, 18 Via Vigevano 2-8 p.m.: Les Hommes Femme, 6 Via Bergamo 5-8 p.m.: Luca Moretti, 8 Via Gesù 7-11 p.m.: Pietro Paradiso, 19 Via Rubens WEDNESDAY, FEB. 20 9:45 a.m.: Valentin Yudashkin, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 10:15 a.m.: Marni, 22/A Via Alserio 10:30 a.m.: Daks, 34 Via Turati 10:30 a.m.: Angelo Marani, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 11:15 a.m.: Mariella Burani, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Montenapoleone Noon: Antonio Marras, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Babila 1 p.m.: Roberto Cavalli, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Senato 2 p.m.: Trussardi, 30 Piazza Luigi di Savoia 3 p.m.: Iceberg, 10 Via Palermo 4 p.m.: Krizia, 21 Via Manin 5 p.m. (press) and 6 p.m. (buyers): Gucci, 2/B Piazza Oberdan 7 p.m.: Brioni, 34 Via Turati 8 p.m.: Alessandro Dell Acqua, 51 Corso Venezia 9 p.m.: Carlo Tivioli, 34 Via Turati Presentations 9 a.m-7 p.m.: Car Shoe, 1 Via Spiga 9:30 a.m.-noon: Rebecca Brown, 8 Via Pergolesi 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Ottavia Failla, 20 Via Spiga 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Furla, 18 Via Sant Andrea 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Gilli, 5 Via Spiga 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Tod s, 22 Via Spiga 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Church s, 11 Via Sant Andrea 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Salvatore Ferragamo Accessori, 2 Via Borgospesso 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Dusan, 25 Via Vincenzo Monti 11 a.m.-7 p.m.: Le Silla, 14 Via Montenapoleone 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Stuart Weitzman, 1 Via Spiga 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: Baldinini, 13 Via Montenapoleone 11 a.m.-7 p.m.: Le Silla Limited Edition, 14 Via Montenapoleone Risers and runways being built for the shows. PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI ZEGNA BARUFFA LANE BORGOSESIA SPA De Jongh Fréres - Paris. - Workers in front of the mill entrance. 800 QUALITY IS ALWAYS IN FASHION ZEGNA BARUFFA U.S.A. CORP. - THE FASHION GALLERY BUILDING BROADWAY - SUITE NEW YORK (N.Y.) - USA - PHONE +1/212/ FAX +1/212/

15 13 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, a.m.-8 p.m.: Maliparmi, 8 Via Cino del Duca 11 a.m.-8 p.m.: Agnona, 21 Via Montenapoleone Noon-6 p.m.: Sergio Rossi, 9 Via Montenapoleone Noon-6 p.m.: Loro Piana, 22 Via Bigli Noon-7 p.m.: Gianmarco Lorenzi, 1 Via Montenapoleone 1-7:30 p.m.: Fabiana Filippi, 32 Via Spiga 2-7 p.m.: Cesare Paciotti, 8 Via Sant Andrea 2-8 p.m.: Santoni, 42 Viale Piave 2-7 p.m.: Valentino Orlandi, 10/A Via Sant Andrea 2-7 p.m.: Giuseppe Zanotti Design, 18 Via Montenapoleone 2-7 p.m.: Vicini, 18 Via Montenapoleone 2-7 p.m.: Gianvito Rossi, 3 Via Santo Spirito 2-7 p.m.: Fratelli Rossetti, 1 Via Montenapoleone 2-7 p.m.: Rossetti One, 1 Via Montenapoleone 3-8 p.m.: Holly Lachatte, 24 Via Bigli 3-8 p.m.: Claudio Montias, 2 Via Montenapoleone 3-8 p.m.: Georgia Turri, 2 Via Montenapoleone 5-9 p.m.: Coccinelle, 24 Via Borgonuovo 6-8 p.m.: Sutor, 2 Via Verri THURSDAY, FEB a.m.: Dsquared2, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Senato 9:45 a.m.: Max Mara, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Babila 10:30 a.m.: Les Copains, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 11:15 a.m.: Emilio Pucci, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Montenapoleone Noon: Luisa Beccaria, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni Noon: Ermanno Scervino, 6 Piazza Affari 1 p.m.: Laura Biagiotti, 6 Via Rivoli 2 p.m.: Dolce & Gabbana, 24 Viale Piave 3 p.m.: John Richmond, Giardini Porta Venezia Via Palestro 4 p.m. (press) and 5 p.m. (buyers): Fendi, 3 Via Sciesa 5:30 p.m.: Giuliana Teso, 34 Via Turati 6:30 p.m.: Maurizio Pecoraro, 58 Corso Italia 7:30 p.m. (press) and 8:30 p.m. (buyers): Gianni Versace, 1 Piazza Vetra 8:30 p.m.: Jo No Fui, Via Sant Eufemia Presentations 10 a.m.-9 p.m.: Andrea Pieralli, 35 Via Vigevano Noon-7 p.m.: Pantofola D Oro, 9 Via Ciro Menotti Noon-7 p.m.: Jucca, 9 Via Ciro Menotti 12:30-9 p.m.: Francesca Mambrini, 7 Via Nino Bixio, 2nd floor 12:30-7:30 p.m.: Borbonese, 7 Via Nino Bixio, 1st floor 12:30-7:30 p.m.: Redwall, 7 Via Nino Bixio, ground floor 2-7 p.m.: René Caovilla, 6 Via Sant Andrea 3:30-6:30 p.m.: ck Calvin Klein, 37 Viale Umbria, 3:30-6:30 p.m.: Calvin Klein Collection, 37 Viale Umbria 5-7 p.m.: Annapiú, 26 Via Spiga 6-10 p.m.: Dondup, Vicolo Fiori/ Via Pontaccio FRIDAY, FEB. 22 9:15 a.m.: Malloni, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 10 a.m.: Cividini, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 10:45 a.m.: Love Sex Money, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Montenapoleone 11:30 a.m.: Byblos, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 12:15 p.m.: Romeo Gigli, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 1 p.m.: Massimo Rebecchi, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni 1:45 p.m.: Millia M., Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 2:30 p.m.: IT, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 3:30 p.m.: Mila Schön, 51 Corso Venezia 4:30 p.m.: Kristian Aadvenik, 2 Via Valenza 5:15 p.m.: Soft Core, 2 Via Valenza 7 p.m.: Roberto Musso, 16 Via Vannucci Presentations 2-7 p.m.: Isabella Tonchi, 5 Via Maroncelli SATURDAY, FEB :30 a.m.: Luciano Soprani, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Borgospesso 11:15 a.m.: Ab Soul, Milano Moda Donna, Sala Manzoni Noon: New Upcoming Designers Regeneration: Archivio Privato, Andrea Turchi Next Generation: Ave-Ante Vesperum Edicta, Giulia Burrascano, Vanessa Cinquemani, Maurizio Iapicca; Milano Moda Donna, Sala Spiga 12:45 p.m.: Klavers Van Engelen, 2 Via Valenza 1:30 p.m.: Mikio Sakabe, 2 Via Valenza 2:15 p.m.: Steinunn, 2 Via Valenza 3 p.m.: Alviero Martini 1 Classe, 1/A Via Argelati The Milan fairgrounds is the main venue for fashion week. Show-room Attila: 552, Seventh Avenue, 2nd Floor - New York, NY tel fax WATT CINQUE New Cashmere

16 14 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Denim Report By Khanh T.L. Tran CITY OF COMMERCE, Calif. The City of Others brand is aiming at college students who would rather spend their time filming documentaries, singing tunes, surfing the Internet and discussing world crises than paying more than $100 for a pair of jeans. Steve Dubbeldam and Steve Opperman, founders of the Iron Army premium denim label, have teamed up with Hudson Jeans to introduce the Internet-based brand that caps wholesale prices at $45. The pair want to parlay their enthusiasm and make it a focal point of the new brand. Videos for YouTube, home pages on MySpace and Facebook and mini documentaries with college students on the companies they care about and clothes they wear are among the things they ll look to incorporate into the City of Others DNA. Philanthropy will be another element of the brand and consumers will influence it. The label s cardboard hangtag is printed with a code that customers can enter on City of Others Web site to select the charity that will receive a portion of the jeans sales. Dubbeldam said the company wants to make giving to charity a part of consumers lives. We don t want our customers to change their buying habits, Dubbeldam said. We want it to be aligned with what we already do, like buying music and buying clothes. The inaugural fall lineup includes five women s selections, all in a five-pocket style, including a slim leg, a boot cut, a flare with a 24-inch leg opening, a wide-leg version with a 27-inch opening and a capri intended to be worn with long boots. All the blue denim is made in Europe and the nondenim fabrics, including yarn-dyed striped twill, and gray and black denim, come from Japan. Treatments include dark resin rinses and hand-sanding. Dubbeldam, 25, and Opperman, 24, are well-versed in highend denim. After growing up together in Edmonton, Alberta, they founded Iron Army three years ago in their hometown. They soon moved to Los Angeles with hopes of growing their fledgling brand, which retails from $200 to $250. The problem: several of their twentysomething friends couldn t afford Iron Army unless they bought at wholesale prices. I felt bad, Dubbeldam said. Last year, Dubbeldam and Opperman sold their stake in Iron Army and teamed up with Peter Kim, president of Hudson Jeans, to start City of Others. Kim, 37, worked in apparel for years through his parents business, which produces a misses line called Nicola. He also founded a men s streetwear label called Drunknmunky with Tony Chu, who is now Hudson s vice president of marketing and public relations. These guys are so out there and new, Kim said of Dubbeldam and Opperman. I don t think there s anything in apparel doing this with this creativity. Rick Spielberg, a denim veteran who oversees Hudson s sales, said the goal is to make the first delivery of City of Others in June to the top 300 boutiques in the U.S. In November, foreign shipments will begin to 25 stores each in the U.K., Germany and Japan. Also launching a men s line this fall, City of Others projects $5 million in wholesale volume for the first season. Hudson, which is designed by former Taverniti So and Neo designer Ben Taverniti, generated $33 million in sales in In addition to financial backing, the tie to Hudson means that Dubbeldam and Opperman can use Hudson s office space here, rely on Hudson s facilities to wash and manufacture the jeans, hire a staff of six and carve a corner out of Hudson s showroom in Los Angeles fashion district for meetings with retail buyers. Though Hudson and City of Others don t use the same fabrics, Spielberg said Hudson leveraged its relationships with European and Japanese mills to create fabric exclusively for the start-up. Hudson is known for reliability and performance that Steve and I lacked, Dubbeldam said. What we brought was creative. Trio Breaks Ground on a New City By Evan Clark and Kristi Ellis etailers received a double dose of Rpositive news from the federal government on Wednesday, as the Commerce Department reported stronger than anticipated January sales and President Bush signed an economic stimulus package. January sales for all retail and food service providers increased a seasonally adjusted 0.3 percent after a 0.4 percent decline the previous month. Apparel and accessories specialty stores saw sales advance 1.4 percent from December, driven in part by clearance of holiday merchandise, while the struggling department store sector registered a 1.1 percent decline. Compared with a year earlier, sales at apparel and accessories stores dipped 0.1 percent to $18.8 billion and department store sales fell 4.8 percent to $17.1 billion. The overall retail sales got a boost from a 2 percent rise at gasoline stations and higher car sales. The sales figures, amid concerns about a recession, helped spur a stock market rally. The S&P Retail Index rose 0.3 percent to The Dow Jones Industrial Average gained 1.5 percent to close at 12,552.24, while the broader S&P 500 jumped 1.4 percent to 1, Steve Opperman, Peter Kim and Steve Dubbeldam. City of Others uses typewriter teeth to spell out its name on the back of jeans. City of Others gray flare jeans with a resin rinse. January Retail Sales Better Than Expected The January numbers are indicative of the issues consumers are facing, including the housing slump, a sluggish employment sector and high energy prices, said Rosalind Wells, chief economist at the National Retail Federation. We expect to see marginal improvements in the second half of the year once consumers begin to receive their rebate checks. Despite the sales gain last month, Brian Bethune, U.S. economist at Global Insight, said the first quarter could still be a tough one with February sales reports tilting toward the weak side and consumer confidence declining. We still expect real consumption spending to track below 1 percent in the first quarter, Bethune said in an analysis. Real consumption spending is in the process of slowing down further. Combined with another very large negative contribution from housing investment, this will ultimately lead to a negative real [gross domestic product] growth rate in the first quarter. The economic stimulus package signed by Bush will put billions of dollars of tax rebates into the hands of consumers and businesses by late spring and early summer, a move that economists said will provide a short-term jolt to the economy. The bill I m signing today is large enough to have an impact, amounting to $152 billion this year, or about 1 percent of GDP, Bush said during the signing ceremony in the East Room of the White House. The bill provides temporary tax incentives for businesses to make investments in their companies so that we can create new jobs this year and the bill provides individual tax relief in the form of tax rebates. The package will cost about $168 billion over two years. It provides enhanced write-off and depreciation provisions for businesses buying equipment and placing it into service this year. Small businesses can elect to write off the cost of qualified assets they purchase in the year when the assets are placed in service. Businesses can now write off as much as $128,000 and the phaseout threshold is $510,000. The bill raises the write-off limit to $250,000 and the phaseout to $800,000 for It also allows a bonus depreciation for businesses of an additional 50 percent of the cost of an asset acquired and placed into service this year. Rachelle Bernstein, vice president and tax counsel for the NRF, said the primary incentive in the package is the bonus depreciation. It includes leaseholder improvements for items such as We expect to see marginal improvements in the second half of the year once consumers begin to receive their rebate checks. Rosalind Wells, National Retail Federation fixtures and store shelving. That is very positive for those retailers that are still planning to make improvements this year, Bernstein said. The stimulus package will provide tax rebates this year, including $600 for individuals, $1,200 for couples and an additional $300 per child for families. The plan caps eligibility for the rebates at an income of $75,000 for individuals and $150,000 for couples. PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE

17 The Beat By Julee Kaplan Tony Cohen exhibited NEW YORK Retailers scoured ENK at Coterie following International s Fashion Coterie trade his first runway show show in search of the next hot item to during New York attract contemporary customers. Fashion Week. The three-day show that ended Tuesday was spread over the Show Piers 92 and 94 and at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here. The show went well for us, there were some highlights this time and I m really looking forward to fall, said Stacey Pecor, owner of the four Manhattan-based Olive & Bette s stores. I loved the ombré trend, especially from Liquid, and there was a lot of leopard from Rebecca Taylor, which isn t new, but still looks really great. There are a lot of miniskirts happening, which I m very encouraged about since the customer is really wanting them. Pecor said that if a recession is indeed on the horizon, she isn t feeling it, as her sales were up 18 percent in 2007 and increased 9 percent in December. She said she is feeling positive about business in 2008 and has boosted her open-to-buy 20 percent. If you can excite the customer with what you have in the store, they will want to have it, Pecor said. Also, we really pay attention to the stories behind the brands and look for those people who are really passionate about what they make, that way you can get that story across on the sales floor and the customer gets that emotional attachment. That is always great in a recession. Randi Siegal, owner of the three Rapunzel s Closet stores in Palm Beach, Fla., said: Some denim collections, like Seven [For All Mankind] and 1921, seem to be going more toward beat-up washes with holes. We didn t buy into those styles because we thought they would do better in a spring or summer collection. We stuck with the classic clean washes in boot cuts and slight flares. Siegal said she found some amazing cashmere cardigans from Vince in classic colors such as black, navy and charcoal, and liked what Juicy Couture was offering. We loved the outerwear, she said. Every year we buy a few classic coats, and they really grew their outerwear collection. It s very original and well priced. They are not too trendy and they all had fantastic patterned linings. Juicy also had some great dresses and cardigans as well, with gold hardware. However, Siegal was especially pleased with Paige s white maternity jeans. We never saw that before, she said. And we think it will be a great seller in Florida. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Fashion Coterie Highlights Fall Hits However, Hillary Rush, owner of her namesake Los Angeles boutique, said the show provided nothing very new. It isn t really a place to pick up new resources anymore. I wasn t going to Europe because of the [weak] dollar, but prices weren t great at the Coterie either. I do like having the show at the Javits Center. I hope they move the whole show there. On the exhibitor end, designers and sales representatives seemed upbeat. Dutch designer Tony Cohen was at Coterie, just coming off his first runway show. He said he thought the show was a success and retailers were asking him for many of the looks they saw on the runway. Cohen pointed to a black cashmere and silk dress and another silk dress with draped sleeves and a tailored organza jacket, to be worn over a printed silk dress. The colors for the season are rich and I love the draping, Cohen said of the palette of deep purples, blues and maroon. It s the mix of hard and soft. The Tony Cohen line, which is based here at Showroom Seven, wholesales from $85 for a jersey dress to $800 for a shearling jacket. At the Los Angeles-based Tee Party booth, owner Debbie Davimes was busy booking orders. The two-year-old firm has become known for its contemporary T-shirts, made in supersoft cotton. The A new handbag from Seven For All Mankind. Embe s fleece jackets and silk sportswear are made for layering. shirts with ruffle treatments and a striped hoodie wrap dress were booking exceptionally well, Davimes said. The line wholesales from $35 to $49 and has been picked up by Nordstrom, Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus and Anthropologie, among others. At Seven For All Mankind, retailers were filling the booth, hoping to latch on to the brand s next big thing. The company was showing a petite jeans for the first time, something retailers seemed happy to see. The brand was also showing velvet pants in rich colors like purple, brown and black. There were denim peacoats, silk chiffon printed blouses and organic and hemp denim wide-leg jeans. The biggest attraction may have been the newly expanded line of handbags, which took up almost an entire wall of the booth. It s all about the denim lifestyle, showing that we are about jeans, but also more than just jeans, a spokeswoman for the brand said. The Seven For All Mankind collection wholesales from $70 to $120. Also new to Coterie was Embe, a Santa Barbara, Calif.-based contemporary brand that was showing washed silk dresses, tops and skirts to be layered with fleece trenchcoats and jackets. The colors for the season include light blue, green and cream. The Embe line wholesales from $30 to $ Hurley Gets High Schoolers Pumped SAN DIEGO High school students don t need any particular reason to get pumped up on a Friday night. But combine hundreds of them from four schools based here, throw in the latest surf-inspired looks from Hurley s summer collection and you ve got a fashion show-cum-pep rally to bring the house down. Last month, Costa Mesa, Calif.-based Hurley was the host of the fifth run of its signature Walk the Walk competition at the House of Blues. The high schools La Jolla, Lincoln, Point Loma and La Costa Canyon vied to give the most original interpretation of the Hurley brand. The award was a $5,000 donation to the winning school s art and music program. Walk the Walk isn t a traditional school fund-raiser. It upturns the conventional fashion show format by giving students full creative control. Pulling from Hurley s young contemporary, men s and swim lines, the schools had the task of presenting a 5-minute runway show. With the guidance of Hurley s staff, each school designated committees or project managers to oversee show production, styling, hair and makeup, as well as choreography, music selection and promotion. We re continually blown away by the creativity of the students involved, said Lyndsey Roach, vice president of marketing for the young contemporary division at Hurley, which is owned by Nike Inc. Each show seems to build on the one before it, and the students raise the bar for themselves. The students took to their duties with zest. The strong scent of Hawaiian Tropic tanning oil wafted in the air as a half-dozen boys showed off their identically tanned and toned abs in swimsuit briefs to giggling girls. The Facebook generation also snapped numerous photos of each other on their digital cameras. Onstage, students took different approaches for showing school spirit. Point Loma High simulated a nightclub on the runway, illuminating glowstick-waving models with a black light. La Jolla High opted to focus on individuality; its models were dressed as nerds, jocks, rockers and environmentalists, and carried signs declaring their roles lest the audience have any doubt. La Costa Canyon High s team amplified the energy even more by playing Michael Jackson s Eighties hit Thriller and emerging through a runway entrance decorated with the phrase: Coming Alive. But Lincoln High had the crowd buzzing loudest. The first to strut down the runway was the school s mascot, an electric guitar-strumming bee, who tripped on the DJ s wires coming offstage but bounced back up chanting the school s name. With that cue, Lincoln s models sashayed and danced to Guns N Roses Welcome to the Jungle, Joe Budden s Pump It Up and a remix of one of DJ Paul Oakenfold s dance anthems. Sure enough, the judges including Hurley founder Bob Hurley, pro surfer Rob Machado and Hurley young contemporary designer Jenna Wilson awarded Lincoln the grand prize. The win topped off an experience that started in November and involved an interview with Hurley during the application process. We all got so close, said Phylicia Willis, who served as one of Lincoln s two project managers. For others, it let them do what teenagers like best. I get to be the center of attention and have lights going everywhere! said Lincoln model Fernanda Lezama. Leila Baboi On the runway with Lincoln. The Lincoln High mascot. DJ Pubes and La Jolla High students. PHOTOS BY MICAH BAIRD

18 16 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 TheWWDList New York-based Brand Keys Inc., a brand and customer loyalty research firm, has exclusively provided WWD with the top-ranked cosmetics and skin care brands from its 2008 Brand Keys Customer Loyalty Engagement Index. A total of 3,200 consumers, 18 to 65 years of age, were screened for being users of cosmetics (lips, eyes and/or face), and were asked which cosmetics brand they bought most recently. They were then asked to rank the brand on Brand Keys four category loyalty and engagement drivers: how it makes them look and/or feel; the amount of trust they have in the brand and how much knowledge the Looking Their Best brand has of the consumer; the level of innovation and if the brand provides the best care for the face and skin, and whether the brand has effortless application, The top 12 cosmetics and skin care brands ranked by customer loyalty. is antiaging, revitalizes and transforms the consumer. Cecily Hall * * MAYBELLINE Customer Loyalty Engagement Index score: 128 This brand does particularly well and the values resonate: Maybelline ranked extraordinarily higher on making the consumer look and feel good. They re also ahead on effortless transformation. This is a very strong brand, said Robert Passikoff, president of Brand Keys Inc. In fact, the bestselling mascara on store shelves is Maybelline s Great Lash: Its bright pink-and-green packaging has been visible in drugstores for more than three decades. Coming this year is the brand s foray into minerals, a category that at mass totals about $80 million, WWD reported in December. MARY KAY Score: 128 Though Mary Kay isn t your typical mass brand found in a local Duane Reade, it has a loyal following and it seems that alternative forms of marketing are helping out this 44-year-old direct seller of beauty products, based near Dallas. WWD reported in October that companies like Mary Kay, which employs consultants worldwide to sell its products, are recognizing the potential of putting a personal slant on their brands by using Facebook.com to promote their events and to share tips. ESTEE LAUDER Score: 127 WWD reported this month that the New York-based Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. reported a 7.7 percent increase in second-quarter profits. Its global sprawl is helping to shield the beauty firm from a weakening U.S. market. By category for the entire company, makeup sales gained 15.4 percent to $827.3 million. Best-selling products for the brand itself include its Estée Lauder Signature Lipstick and its Resilience Lift Extreme cream. Passikoff said the brand s most notable strength, according to respondents: trust. It ranks highest as a trusted brand over the other three key drivers, he said. LANCOME Score: 126 Last year, Lancôme said it had initiatives in place to shore up its treatment and fragrance businesses, while boosting its presence on the Internet. The brand aims to reinforce its skin care offering with the relaunch of Rénergie Microlift, or Rénergie Morpholift as it s called in Europe, and bolster its best-selling Trésor fragrance with the unveiling of Kate Winslet as its spokeswoman, said WWD. In addition, the L Oréal-owned brand has signed on actresses Juliette Binoche and Laura Morante to be the ambassadors of its Rénergie and Absolue skin care lines, respectively. CLINIQUE Score: 126 This Estée Lauder-owned brand ranks highest on innovation, said Passikoff. The value attached to this brand is its innovative nurturing: It s all about what it does to the consumer it moisturizes well and provides the best care for their face, according to our respondents. The brand recently launched its Acne Solutions Clear Skin System. And last month, WWD reported that Clinique inked an agreement with global pharmaceutical giant Allergan, which will result in a specialized line of Clinique-branded products to be sold only in doctors offices. L OREAL Score: 126 L Oréal has done a wonderful job in communicating to their consumers that s where this brand really stands out and is consistent with who they want to be, noted Passikoff. Last month, L Oréal reported fourth-quarter 2007 sales hit 4.42 billion euros, or $6.41 billion at average exchange. Jean Paul Agon, L Oréal s ceo, told analysts he expects the company s 2008 sales growth to come in at between 6 and 8 percent. Between 2009 and 2013, L Oréal will renovate its headquarters in the Paris suburb of Clichy. CHANEL Score: 124 Chanel is revving up its skin care business this spring. The Hydramax + Active Collection, due next month, is a next-generation incarnation of the Hydramax franchise. Industry sources estimated that the Hydramax + Active Collection could do upward of $10 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counters. Chanel ranks highly as a trusted brand, said Passikoff. In fairness, this brand has done a magnificent job managing all their categories fragrance, clothing, accessories. That s why it resonates so well with its customers. MAX FACTOR Score: 124 This brand s heritage is really the whole Hollywood glam factor, said Passikoff of the Procter & Gamble Co.-owned brand. Max Factor himself was a makeup artist for the Russian Royal Ballet. When his family moved to Los Angeles in the early 1900s, Factor opened his first store in the center of the city s theatrical district. Said Passikoff: Factor s expertise was in effortless transformation, one of our customer loyalty drivers. It s all about the closeup perfection that one needs for Hollywood, and the fact that, if you look at the needs firming, revitalizing, long-lasting it s everything they are. COVER GIRL Score: 123 This year is looking to be quite a year for Cover Girl. The brand, whose celebrity spokeswomen have included the likes of Keri Russell, Rihanna, Christie Brinkley and Queen Latifah, hinted at an image overhaul in August, when it tapped Drew Barrymore as co-creative director on print advertisements for a new mascara, LashBlast. She also appears in the ads. In addition, the brand is a sponsor of America s Next Top Model, hosted by Tyra Banks. Cover Girl speaks to a wide, diverse audience, said Passikoff. Its strength drivers are the trust and effortless transformation factors. NEUTROGENA Score: 123 This brand s innovation is driving customer loyalty, said Passikoff. And the innovation is coming from the skin care background of this brand. Neutrogena always seems to have different products on the shelves than other brands. That reflects in this ranking. Owned by Johnson & Johnson, Neutrogena, which markets skin and body care products in the mass market, has an impressive lineup of celebrity names as spokeswomen: Actress Diane Lane recently signed on to represent the brand, joining Jennifer Garner, Kelly Preston and Gabrielle Union as faces for the firm. REVLON Score: 122 There s one key driver that could be holding this $1 billion brand back in the marketplace: innovation. This is a brand that everyone knows they ve got that but it s missing out on being innovative. I think if you stop and think about how they position themselves, it s certainly mass, and it s a wide range of products. But it s not read by customers as being innovative, said Passikoff. Parent Revlon Inc. s ceo, David Kennedy, has been attempting to ignite profitable sales growth by instituting a new product launch program, WWD reported late last year. AVON Score: 120 Respondents who use this brand like how the products make them look and feel, and the products take effortless application, but they re weak as an innovator, and they re not as high as a trusted brand, said Passikoff. The company last week reported a 17 percent surge in fourth-quarter revenues, but net earnings were hampered by costs due to the company s turnaround effort. Plans for the near future, WWD reported, will focus on sustaining top-line growth and fortifying Avon s global brand equity. SOURCE: NEW YORK-BASED BRAND KEYS CUSTOMER LOYALTY ENGAGEMENT INDEX SURVEY; THE OVERALL STUDY IS CONDUCTED TWICE A YEAR AND IS SET TO BE RELEASED MONDAY; A TOTAL OF 3,200 CONSUMERS ACROSS THE NINE U.S. CENSUS REGIONS ARE REPRESENTED SPECIFICALLY WITHIN THE COSMETICS CATEGORY OF THE STUDY; HAIR CARE AND FRAGRANCE BRANDS WERE NOT INCLUDED IN THE STUDY; *,,, INDICATE TIES

19 MEMO PAD CATHY VS. MARC: For those wondering where Cathy Horyn was during the Marc Jacobs show on Friday, her On the Runway blog explains it all. Unlike some editors who missed the show since it unexpectedly started almost on time, it turns out Horyn became ill Friday and passed her reporting duties to colleague Eric Wilson. But he didn t get the last word. Using the wonders of the Web, Horyn viewed the collection online and mused about it on her blog. I ve looked at the MJ show on Style.com and can see why some people found it a little slack, she wrote on Monday. I like Jacobs sportive take on casual dressing, a category that has been stuck in neutral for awhile (too girlie, too Marni, too high-low, etc.). I don t know if Jacobs intended to focus on casual, especially on trousers and tops, but I like the direction here. She subsequently received comments from her readers as well as from Jacobs himself. Jacobs wrote: Dear Cathy.I wish you could have been at my show. I think it was a really good one. I am happy with it on every level. I deliberately stated I was uninspired this season as I have felt that talking about inspiration is so not the point to making and showing a collection. Inspiration is a catalyst. One is left with an interpretation of those thoughts. In a show context they are meant to say something.i felt it necessary to allow the audience to say what they want, to see what they saw. Jacobs went on to say that he looks forward to the chance to speak to Horyn soon and had a message for those who didn t think the spring collection sold. Perhaps they should check our figures before assuming such as fact. I hope you are feeling better.all my best, Marc. While it s not the first time he has appeared, Jacobs is the only designer to date who has posted his point of view and put his name on it, said Horyn. She hasn t replied to Jacobs yet, adding she ll see him in Paris, but said she appreciates the fact that he is up-front and always says what he thinks. Amy Wicks FIRST WORDS: I m First Lady while my husband s in office, and his wife until death, Carla Bruni declares in French magazine L Express, granting her first interview since her Feb. 2 nuptials to French President Nicolas Sarkozy. I m Italian and I would not like to divorce. It s the model-turned-singer s first marriage, and her declarations stand out, given her fast-girl reputation. Bruni- Sarkozy is just discovering the political scene and says it s full of vital issues concerning people s lives, while art and fashion her turf are important to the soul, the heart and for pleasure. The singer, who is recording her third album, will play her first official role at the end of March, when she ll The cover of L Express. accompany her husband for an official visit to the U.K., and she says she is eager to meet the Queen. The eight-page article includes several photos of her at home in Paris in several outfits: a white shirt, a sweater and slacks, and an evening gown. In the Q&A, France s First Lady is ebullient about her happiness and her husband s qualities, but gives few particulars regarding what she ll do with her new role. I will do my best, she vows. Chantal Goupil ONE, TWO, THREE, FOUR : For the first time, the Magazine Publishers of America has sought to count traffic on consumer magazine Web sites as a whole, hoping to shed light on the impact of a medium magazine publishers are still struggling to master. The MPA came up with the figure using numbers from Nielsen Online, narrowing the list to 320 sites associated with consumer magazine brands a magazine s Web site, a multibrand site like Style.com, and the site of a magazine no longer publishing a print edition and concluded that these sites averaged 67.5 million unique monthly visitors during the fourth quarter of 2007, 8.1 percent more than the same period in Still, this number has its limits. Little information has been made public by magazine companies about how much revenue they are generating through their titles Web sites, how much they re investing, and if anyone is even close to making any money. But on the heels of a rather grim newsstand story that showed tough times for single-copy magazine sales, it s no wonder the MPA wants to get some good news out. MPA president Nina Link disputed the dismal view, pointing out that Mediamark Research Inc. audience numbers for magazines have grown five percent over the past five years. When you consider that about 15 to 16 percent of the distribution of magazines is on the newsstand, you can t just look at the newsstand numbers, she said. And there was a lot going on the first half of 2007 was up, and in the second half, you were seeing things like people testing higher prices, leading to smaller sell-through but higher revenue. As for the desired goal of growing a magazine s Web site, Link argued that in addition to increasing digital revenues, the sites increase brand awareness for magazines, help draw in a high-value audience, and will hopefully convince advertisers to take note. Irin Carmon HAIL TO THE KIDS: The publisher position at Teen Vogue has finally been filled after a flurry of Condé Nast executive changes in January sent former publisher Gina Sanders to Lucky. Vogue associate publisher Laura McEwen will take the helm at Teen Vogue as of today. McEwen has roots in the teen category, having been publisher at YM and YM.com from 2000 until She joined Vogue as advertising director for the beauty category in August 2005, and was previously vice president, publishing director of Reader s Digest. While there, she helped launch that company s newest launch, Every Day With Rachael Ray. Stephanie D. Smith WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, Theo Fennell Bids Farewell By Samantha Conti By Lucie Greene LONDON Hennes & Mauritz will open on Regent Street today, the first of five major U.K. flagship launches planned for this year. The Regent Street mecca spans three floors, 32,400 square feet, and sells all the H&M collections, including the brand s rapidly expanding footwear lines. It s a great marketplace for our customers. It s one of London s most historic shopping destinations with ongoing exciting developments, Magnus Olsson, H&M s U.K. and Ireland country manager, told WWD this week, adding that H&M would keep its store open in Oxford Circus, less than 400 yards away. With the size and the location, we want to create an experience, a shopping destination for the whole family, he added. The flagship is located in the central chunk of the former Dickens & Jones department store, and features the historical building s dramatic main entrance, with bronze awnings. Olsson declined to give sales projections for the store, but it clearly needs to keep the cash tills humming. According to real estate sources, the annual rent is more than 2 million pounds, or $3.9 million at current exchange, a year. Olsson said the brand had taken care to incorporate the building s historical features into the store s interior, such as the bronze window facade and columns inside the store. Special characteristics also include an illuminated light wall in the atrium, visible from the sidewalk, which spans the full height of the store. The wall will feature mannequins wearing the latest H&M looks. In addition to the clothing collections, Olsson said accessories, particularly footwear, were hot sellers in the British market, and are a category on which H&M wants to build. After several years of stasis, Regent Street is once again emerging as a hot retail hub. In November, A X Armani Exchange opened on the street, and the same Dickens & Jones building soon will be home to a new LONDON Jewelry designer Theo Fennell will step down as creative director of his company next year, and cease to be involved in any operational management. The British designer famous for his use of sorbet-colored gemstones and bejeweled cross, key and horn pendants, will not be replaced as creative director. A Fennell spokeswoman said Wednesday the company has a strong design team and it will remain in place. Although Fennell will be stepping down from his official posts as creative director and a company director, he will continue in an ambassadorial role, and will consult on design. His current contract ends in 12 months, and the company said the board is discussing a new, long-term design contract with him. Design has always been the hub of my professional life and so it will remain, said Fennell on Wednesday. However, there are a number of other design areas outside luxury goods with which I would like to become involved. Going forward, I hope to continue my relationship with the group, and yet have the flexibility to enter new creative arenas. At the end of last year, former Burberry executive Pamela Harper joined Theo Fennell plc as chief executive and will continue in her operational role. In a research statement Wednesday, Andrew Wade of Seymour Pierce said the business would continue as usual, and would not lose any of its association with Fennell. He continues to own a significant part of the business, so should be strongly incentivised in his PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS ambassadorial role, he said. Founded in 1982 by Fennell, the label is popular among London celebrities including Elton John, Liz Hurley and David and Victoria Beckham. The business is listed on London s AIM exchange, although more than 70 percent is still owned by Fennell and his business partners. The company has a flagship in South Kensington, not far from the Victoria & Albert Museum, and a store in the City of London s Royal Exchange. There are also shops-in-shops and wholesale clients worldwide in markets such as Hong Kong, Dubai, Barbados and the Maldives. Fennell also has a private client base in the U.S. The company said business continues to be good; sales have increased 13 percent year-on-year in the post-christmas season. H&M Lands on Regent Street By Whitney Beckett fter a five-month pursuit, A Sun Capital Securities Group LLC now has 81.9 percent of Kellwood Co. s total outstanding shares, giving it ownership of the struggling St. Louis-based vendor. The private equity firm, which first expressed interest in buying Kellwood last September for $762 million in cash, has set up an offering period to buy the remaining stock by the end of the week for the Inside H&M on Regent Street. same $21-a-share price. As of Tuesday night s tender offer expiration, about 15.8 million Kellwood shares, or 70.5 percent, had been tendered, adding to Sun Capital s existing 11.4 percent stake. Sun Capital said shareholders have promised to tender an additional 8 percent of shares by the end of the week, and that all shares delivered by Friday night s deadline will be paid for promptly in cash. After expiration of this second offering, each share not Banana Republic store, due to open next month. H&M s flagship rollout will include stores in Belfast, Northern Ireland; Bristol, England, and two other major cities in the next six months, in addition to a new youth-led unique concept store in London s Camden neighborhood, which launches in the spring. Olsson said the Camden store will bear the H&M name, but will have a younger feeling. He declined to provide further details. Currently, H&M has 128 stores in Great Britain and seven in Northern Ireland. Sun Secures Most Kellwood Shares previously purchased in the tender offer will be converted to receive the same $21, subject to appraisal rights. Kellwood will become a wholly owned subsidiary of Cardinal Integrated, the part of Sun Capital that took over the vendor, and Kellwood s common stock will be delisted from the New York Stock Exchange. Neither Sun nor Kellwood officials could be reached for comment Wednesday. Kellwood s stock closed at $21.01

20 18 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2008 Nordstrom Manhattan Flagship Plan Said to Hit Bump Continued from page one redeveloped by Macklowe Partners. However, last week Macklowe was served with a notice of default after talks faltered with Deutsche Bank and other debtors on refinancing seven skyscrapers in New York City. The financially troubled Macklowe now runs the risk of losing some properties. Before Macklowe s financial problems came to a head, the developer tried to purchase the building at 48 East 57th Street housing Jacob & Co., the jeweler, and Rubann hair colorists, but was rebuffed. Mr. Macklowe offered to buy our building. Absolutely, we are not selling, said a woman at Jacob & Co., who identified herself as the controller but declined to provide her name. Jacob Arabov plead guilty last year to falsifying records and lying to a federal agent in a drug probe, raising questions about the future of his company. The parcel is a critical piece in the redevelopment since it would give Nordstrom an entrance on 57th Street, which is filled with the kind of designer retailers the chain wants to be By Luisa Zargani MILAN Rarely has a collaboration between a fashion house and a photographer been as strong and successful as that between Versace and Richard Avedon, which lasted for almost 18 years. The close association was on display Wednesday at the opening of the exhibition Richard Avedon, Fotografie , which features more than 250 of his photos. The show, held at Forma, the city s international center of photography, is sponsored by Versace and runs until June 8. Donatella Versace and Norma Stevens, director of the Richard Avedon Foundation, swapped anecdotes and shared memories of the late photographer and of the late Gianni Versace, who tapped Avedon for his iconic ad campaigns. It was love at first sight with Gianni, recalled Versace, who was wearing a skintight blue sleeveless bodice and pants, as well as her usual stilettos. They were like brothers, they had the same take on things, the same drive for perfection and the same energy, she said, adding she herself had become friends with Avedon, spending whole days and nights on the set of the campaigns until the photographer a perfectionist was satisfied with the results of his work. Sometimes, we would work three days in a row and then he would decide to throw everything away and start all over again, said Versace, still puzzled. The photos looked beautiful to me, but he was not pleased with, say, a straying little finger, and the slightest imperfection was enough for him to nix the whole thing. near, including Prada, Burberry and Dior. Without that 57th Street access, Nordstrom is likely to take a pass on the site, even though there would still be entrances on Park Avenue and 56th Street where there is less of a fashion crowd. On Wednesday Nordstrom declined to comment on the Drake Hotel situation. However, it is understood the company is hanging in and waiting to see how things play out. While Nordstrom considers the former Drake attractive, there are many mitigating factors that are completely out of the retailer s control, said the source close to the retailer. The deal has gone south, added another real estate source. Despite the hiccups, Nordstrom remains eager to open a flagship in Manhattan, which would be the retailer s first store in the city. Nordstrom is seeking approximately 200,000 square feet in an upscale area with lots of public transportation nearby. The company continues to search Manhattan, but it s hard to imagine any available sites as good as the Drake. The Stevens drew laughs from Versace and the press by recounting how Gianni Versace made Avedon nervous whenever he appeared on the set and insisted only his sister be allowed to sit in. Donatella would have to go and tell Gianni, who would leave, only to sneak back in, hide behind a pole or check out the scene with a mirror, then go back to Donatella with his suggestions, who would come to me and I would have to convey them to Dick, said Stevens. This happened all the time. An entire room at Forma is dedicated to the campaigns shot for Versace, but the exhibition is one of the most comprehensive yet, with photos ranging from Avedon s soulful portraits of Americans in the West, postwar images captured in Sicily and Rome and touching ones of the photographer s father yielding to cancer. Dick was a genius, he would use the light as an artist would use the brush, said Drake Hotel could be the only viable site for Nordstrom in New York that s big enough and in the right location, said Robert Futterman of Robert K. Futterman & Associates LLC. I could see why they would persevere and stay involved and I don t see that many alternatives. The letter of intent underscored how serious Nordstrom is about the location. The letter gets the wheels of development in motion by giving a builder a basis for getting financing, and gets the retailer going on design plans and deeper due diligence. Other sites the company has examined and apparently ruled out include locations around Columbus Circle and Penn Station and the 34th Street area, specifically the Hotel Pennsylvania on Seventh Avenue, just south of Macy s, which will be redeveloped by Vornado Realty. While the Herald Square vicinity has enormous pedestrian traffic, there s a mass appeal and hardly the upscale cachet that Nordstrom usually seeks in site selection. Nordstrom also has examined lower Manhattan and the financial district, which lacks sufficient weekend traffic to support a department store but is booming with residential construction. Nordstrom also has eyed Madison Avenue in the 50s; the Lord & Taylor flagship, which has decided to remain on Fifth Avenue; 200 Fifth Avenue in the Flatiron area; an office building on the southwest corner of 58th Street and Madison Avenue, and the corner of 42nd Street at Sixth Avenue. Macklowe bought the 80-year-old Drake from Host Marriott in 2006 for a price estimated at around $440 million. The developer has air rights to build up and is considering condominiums and retail space for the mix. The plans could change if another developer took over the property. In May, Nordstrom hired the Madison Retail Group, a retail real estate consulting and brokerage firm, to expedite the search for a Manhattan location. It may be back to square one for Nordstrom, said one real estate broker on Wednesday. Exhibition Captures Versace, Avedon Connection Donatella Versace and views of the Richard Avedon, Fotografie exhibition. Versace. His photos are magical. [Avedon] was the first photographer to ask models to move, and the group shots were also new, continued Versace, recalling how Avedon transformed his style when minimalism took over in the late Nineties. Even I was somewhat lost facing this new trend and he, whose photos had always been all about glamour, embraced minimalism his own way, shooting Kate Moss naked, with no makeup and messy hair [for Versace s fall 1996 campaign]. How intuitive, how perfect was that? mused Versace. PHOTOS BY SAKIS LALAS

21 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, /CLASSIFIEDS For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call or to advertise. Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great New Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO Sq Ft Showroom To share, includes private office. Great location, excel light, reasonable rent. Perf for textile sales. W. 37th St. Call or CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: DENIMS TO SELL Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. Camo Available. Cheap Prices DENIM.TO.SELL Patterns/Samples/Production Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. Any Style Phone: / PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD High qlty, reasonable price. Any design & fabric. Fast work FRONT RUNNERS TODAY S TOP CAREER OPPORTUNITIES ASAP >> EDI Coordinator LORO PIANA >> Sales/Custom Specialists RUSSELL-NEWMAN/ST. EVE >> CAD Designer/Artist TALLY-HO >> Outerwear-Account Executive Go to fashioncareers.com for jobs like these and hundreds of other opportunities. ASST. DESIGNER Junior/Junior Plus Co. seeks creative, organized individual with min. 2 yrs. exp. to assist with busy design dept. Must be experienced in Adobe and Photoshop/Illustrator. Please your resume to: Controller National Apparel Co. has a challenging career opportunity for a strong financial executive. Qualifications include Bachelor s degree in Accounting and a CPA certification in good standing. Candidates must possess at least 3-5 years of accounting, auditing, budget and/or financial analysis experience and strong analytical and problem-solving aptitude. GRAPHIC DESIGNER A multi-tiered Hosiery and Accessories company, located in midtown Manhattan, seeks a Creative Graphic Designer who is skilled in both Photoshop & Illustrator and is MAC proficient. We are looking for a TEAM PLAYER who can contribute fresh ideas, work on CADS to help design our various product lines and communicate with the factories. Multi-tasking skills are a must! Please send resume to Import Export Mgr to 50K. Current exp in dealing with custom agents, brokers. Import export docs. Aged receivable reports etc PLANNER...$50-85K Wal-Mart, Access Jennifer Glenn SRI Search Production Assistant Organized, efficient person needed to control all steps of production process for a supplier of men s & ladies garments made in China. Must be fluent in written and spoken English and Mandarin. Technical Garment knowledge a plus. 2-5 years experience preferred. Please fax resume & salary requirements to: Sales Analyst / Planner Major apparel company seeks detail oriented person with excellent computer and organizational skills. Wal-Mart Retail Link a plus. Responsibilities include creating and maintaining reports, order processing & sales tracking. resume to or fax to TECHNICAL DESIGNER Est. Fashion house/high Bridge Designer line, seeks a top notch tech. designer w/good comm. skills to join expanding team. Must be detail oriented with strong pattern & garment construction knldge. Min 5 yrs exp of tech skills in sportswear & dresses. Salary open. resume to: ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS! The deadline for the Tuesday, Feb. 19 issue of WWD will be Friday, Feb.15 at 12 noon. WWD will not be publishing on Monday, February 18. To place a classified ad, please call Thank you for your cooperation. For subscriptions, call or visit our website SALES EXECUTIVE DL1961.COM DL1961 Premium Denim Co. looking to appoint sales executives. Must have 3-5 years experience in similar position & relationships with retailers. Send resume to: Or Fax: SALES Experience in Digital Fabric Printing sales required, with following. New department, great opportunity. Salary plus commission & benefits. Fax resume SALES REPS WANTED NATIONALLY Calling All Aggressive, Motivated, Smart, and Fun Individuals...Exciting knit-based collection with 10 years in the industry is expanding! We Need You! Call: or fax ACCESSORIES Dynamic Leader Connected at Headquarters Mid Tier and Mass Call: (609)

22 5TH AVENUE AT 56TH STREET NEW YORK FLAGSHIP NOW OPEN visit guccilovesny.com 100% of the proceeds from the limited edition Gucci loves NY bag will benefit the playground partners of the central park conservancy

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