When designing the costume, picture the group as a whole rather than how individuals will look.

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1 Page 1 BEFORE YOU START: Decide if this costume will be for a show or a contest. Can it be used for both? One time use only? How much do we want to spend? Is it cost effective? Do we want to make it or have it made? Does it offer conversion possibilities (can you maybe change it to something else later?) Do you want it to represent an era, a character (Western, Dixie, Flapper, etc.) Does it need to be a specific color (can you sing about a Red Robin in Green, or red when you are singing an Irish medley? (Does is send the audience a mixed message that makes them try to understand "why that color choice", which distracts from the overall performance. You can sing just about any song in a showy, stagy costume. Butit is always worth the consideration to look at the possibility of a "Real costume" if the character warrants it. When designing the costume, picture the group as a whole rather than how individuals will look. Ifyou decide that you want to make it, make sure: 1. Itis a cost effective decision. a. What is the cost of the fabric, the notions and the pattern? b. Can the pattern be adapted to all sizes c. Is the pattern difficult and worth the effort d. Do you have people in the chorus who are good en.ough seamstresses so that you don't have that "home made look"? Cost of costumes to have them made

2 Page 2 Some Red flags to watch for from: Marcia Massey's Costume and Makeup Basics class at IES 2006 Overall fit: Not too loose or baggy (does not help with figure flaws) Not too tight (highlights both age and figure flaws, and inhibits movement) Critically assess proportion from head to toe Waistline: Be sure to have one somewhere, even ifit's around the hips, as ina flapper costume. Otherwise the chorus will have the overall appearance of a large, rectangula.r box. This is especially noticeable when using an over-blouse with no discernible shape. Sleeves: The right choice can be important to the overall design. Correctfit, of course is imperative. Avoid puffed sleeves in a chorus of predominantly middle aged and above women. A softer version will be a better choice. Be very selective in choosing to wear a very short sleeve or sleeveless garment. The majority of women look best when not calling attention to the upper arm flap of loose skin. "Faded Cinderella": This is the look to avoid that says, "these women are too old to be wearing that style." Applies to the fit of pants, fit and length ofskirt, neckline, etc. The look you want to achieve can be adapted to most age/size groups by using your good sense of style and decency. Jumpsuits: Because of the variety of sizes and shapes, jumpsuits generally are not flattering unless a jacket is worn and/or the fit is exquisitely correct. Stage lights havethe nasty habit of hitting at the most unflattering parts of bodies, which become dramatically highlighted while wearing a jumpsuit. Pants: Attention to fit and correct length of pants is critical. Tailored pants should touch the instep of the foot and cover the top of the heel. Soft fabric pants should be a bit longer. Too tight (the smiling crotch area, pleats or packets that pull), too loose (blousy at the hip), use of pleats, flat front or gathered - all elements should be evaluated with an honestly critical eye. Other considerations: Check for comfort and ease of movement. Be sure choreography can be executed with the ease in this garment, shoes, jewelry or other accessories. Note whether the garments falls back into place when arms are raised and released. Note iflining is seen when arms are raised. Costume design, fabric, color, and trim should bring the attention to the singer's face.

3 Page 3 Remember that the hot, white lights used on contest stages may drain color from both the costume and the makeup. Plan accordingly, using enough color to do the job. Color combinations should match the mood of both songs. Work with the makeup chair to coordinate the most appropriate makeup color and design. When planning for each member of the chorus or quartet to wear different designs, or color combinations, be sure to look at them under lights to see if colors, fabrics, and trim are complimentary to each other: different shakes of black, fabrics that shine as opposed to dull imish, amounts of trim, etc. Ifthe chorus is told, for example, to wear primary colors, bring samples of those colors to match so there will be little, if any deviations that might destroy the overall look desired. In order to maintain unit, keep differences in the same family offabric and color designations, as well as style and trim. Chosen fabric should do what you ask of it (Taffeta and gabardine will not drape, chiffon and soft silky fabrics will not take structured fitting.) Some fabrics, such as taffeta and satin have a strong tendency to pucker at the seam. Some are slippery and difficult to handle while cutting or sewing. Any fabric with a nap has to be turned the same direction when cutting all pieces and extra fabric allowed to accommodate this need. Plaids must be matched. Check carefully with the vendor for fabric availability in the future, and assess what color variations could be expected in new bolts of cloth. It would be wise to order extra yardage and trim to accommodate five, ten or more expected new members, according to your own chorus growth patterns. Ifgarments are made professionally, imd out if they can be duplicated easily over the amount of time you expect to use the costume. It may be the best to order extra sizes from the beginning. Garment should be fitted while wearing the desired undergarments (all in one and/or "Falsies", both are highly recommended). Itshould allow for each of breathing room without looking like a nightgown, and avoid the too tight "stuffed sausage" fit. Shoes should coordinate with the costume in both color and style without bringing the attention to the feet with special trim. NOTE: Capezio style dance shoes are generally accepted with most costumes in taupe or black if they coordinate reasonably well. Gold, silver or platinum may be used, with the platinum being the best choice, as it will cause less attention to the feet that would the bright gold or silver and is equally dressy. Avoid white shoes unless used for a specific costume. Certain costumes call for particular footwear, such as boots, moccasins, tennis shoes, etc. Ifpossible, make up the costume in 3 diverse sizes to see ifall members will look reasonably good in the design. Put it under stage lights to check for color reaction/interaction, focal point, proportions of design, costume pieces, length, trim, color or hose, makeup, shoes, etc. - the total look. Note where the eyes go and if any part is overdone or underdone. Proportion! Finally...read the Judging Category Description Book for additional information and guidelines

4 Sweet Adelines Iiiternational -- PamCalveric,.International Faculty t \\\ l.\.... t.,.\ \~ Sketch:.Couitesy of Pacific Sound Chorus, Region. 13 Keepin'ScoreBook

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