Circular Fashion: An Oxymoron? Francesco Molinari, TCBL Project Trondheim, 14 June 2016

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Alicia Bruce
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1 Circular Fashion: An Oxymoron? Francesco Molinari, TCBL Project Trondheim, 14 June 2016

2 A burnt-out problem o o o The fashion and textile industry is the world s second most polluting (after oil). Producing a single t-shirt and a pair of jeans can use over 20,000 litres of water and up to 8,000 different chemicals. Unsold garments are often discarded into landfill where their slow decomposition produces harmful carbon emissions. Representatives from all stakeholder groups are taking note. Governments, NGOs, activists and consumers are pushing for change, and companies are being held increasingly accountable for their sustainability practices. The Sustainable Angle/UKFT

3 Greenpeace Detox programme (2011- )

4 The Detox Catwalk assesses how committed companies have performed against key criteria; these include how they are working to eliminate known hazardous chemicals from their products and processes, and what steps they are taking towards full supply chain transparency More at

5 The Textile & Clothing value chain Take Make Use Dispose

6 Source: UsAgain, 2012

7 Explored solutions Cascading = successive uses of a component or material across different value streams (example: Clothing à Furniture à Insulation material) Collection for recycling (however, only 25% of clothing is actually collected at end of use) Detox voluntary compliance (often prevented by lack of non polluting alternatives) Second hand clothing (supposedly used by 70% of the world population)

8 Example of cascading (source: EC, 2014)

9 Example of ideal recycling (source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2012)

10 Mixed reuse behaviour (source: USAgain, 2012)

11 However

12 Detox Catwalk results 10% of the global retail fashion industry has committed to get rid of toxic chemicals by 2020 LEADERS are Benetton, C&A, Coop Switzerland, Esprit, Fast Retailing (Uniqlo), G-Star Raw, H&M, Inditex (Zara), Levi Strauss, Limited Brands (Victoria s Secret), Mango, Marks & Spencer, Puma and Valentino. GREENWASHERS are Adidas, Li-Ning and Nike. LAGGARDS are Giorgio Armani, Bestseller, Only the Brave, Gap, Metersbonwe, PVH Group (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) and Vancl.

13 Increasing pressures

15 New consumer trends

16 New tech trends

17 New (mass) consumer behaviours

18 New marketing opportunities

19 Implications for our discourse on the Circular Economy

20 1) Not all that is circular is good

21 2) What is linear can be bettered

22 3) Major impacting trends Socioeconomic Sociocultural Technologi cal Business Models Globalisati on of markets Persistent financial crisis New thrift diffused behaviour Ethical purchases Slow and Sustainabl e Fashion Social media amplificati on DIY, Maker economy New materials and tools New production processes Internet economy Design for disassemb ly and repurposin g Reputation based marketing

23 The project Textile and Clothing Business Labs H2020 GA

24 A network of Business Labs nurturing a EU wide infrastructure for business model innovation

25 Design Labs: ideation and conception Designing products and services in new ways, with new approaches, with new criteria Making Labs: material production Focus on the actual making and production of machinery and materials Place Labs: knowledge, territory and production T&C industry as a vehicle for social innovation

26 A Growing Community TCBL Principles curiosity viability durability multiplicity openness respect responsibility Associate Selection Criteria Ability to identify problems of relevance to the industry. Interest in engagement with innovation initiatives. Willingness to learn and experiment. Market relevance of issues raised. Alignment with relevant trends. Added business value. Commitment to the environment. Commitment to durable design. Scalability of sustainability approach proposed. Disciplinary and cultural richness. Orientation to customer needs. Business model innovation potential. Contribution to shared resources and services. Willingness to adopt open innovation. Commitment to transparency. Soundness of authorship, IPR and privacy policies. Respect for supply chain business information. Social responsibility and fair trade practices. Availability of appropriate resources and facilities. Capacity to implement business projects. Quality assurance.

28 JAM LIVE LOCAL LOOK MEET NEXT TALK

29 a global movement transforming the clothes we wear do you want to be part of it?

30 Thank you for your attention Francesco Molinari

Gioin: Fashion Trends Overview 25th September 2017

Gioin: Fashion Trends Overview 25th September 2017 Sonia D Arcangelo Senior Analyst Observatory Innovation Five Major Global Trends in Fashion, 2017 1 GREEN & CIRCULAR FASHION FASHION, SPORT & ATHLEISURE