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1 KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/1

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3 From The Editor s Desk... Textile sector is among the largest contributors to India s exports with 13 per cent of total exports. The year 2017 turned out to be a mixed bag for the textiles sector. In November, the Textiles Ministry notified post-gst rates under the scheme for Remission of State Levies (RoSL) on exports of readymade garments & made-ups. For garments, the rates range between 1.25 per cent and 1.70 per cent and for made-ups between 1.40 per cent and 2.20 per cent effective from October. The government also enhanced the rates under Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS) on readymade garments and made-ups from 2 per cent to 4 per cent. The rates will be applicable between November 1, 2017 and June 30, While initiatives were unveiled for power loom units and weavers, the muchawaited new National Textiles Policy is yet to see the light of the day. Towards the end of the year, a Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector to boost skill development and job creation was launched with an outlay of `1,300 cr. Around 10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and certified in various segments of textile sector. The year 2018 may turn out to be a challenging year for India's textile and garment industry, with exporters still reeling under the impact of GST and outward shipments likely to miss the $45 bn target for Garment exporters have sought that the duty reimbursement to them should be retained at the pre-gst drawback rates of 7.5 per cent, amid declining exports. Currently, the drawback rates are per cent. India's apparel exports declined 39 per cent in value terms in October. A comprehensive national policy covering all segments of the textiles sector is the need of the hour, to give a push to exports from the sector, which have remained stagnant for the past four fiscal years, mainly because of less demand in major markets such as the US, the EU and China, and stiff competition from countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh, which enjoy an edge over India. Hence, the textile and clothing industry has lot of expectation and have sought tax and labour reforms by the Government in Union Budget A comprehensive national policy covering all segments of the textiles industry can give a push to exports. A scheme of capacity building can boost skill development and job creation. Further, an interest equalization of 3 per cent in respect of yarn exports in order to make domestic product competitive in international market for boosting yarn exports. It has also sought exemption from payment of GST on exports, reduction in GST rates from 18 per cent to 12 per cent on manmade fibre and sufficient provision for Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme in Union Budget ARVIND KUMAR Editor & Publisher KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/3

4 JAN. / FEB / VOL.-XIII / ISSUE NO. 01 Editor & Publisher Arvind Kumar Associate Editor B.P. Mishra Asst. Editor Swati Sharma Editorial Adviser Rajesh Chhabara Sub Editor - Creative John Edwards Art Director Sanjay Bhandari Sr. Correspondent Ashwani Kumar Correspondent Deepti Creative - Head Sreekumar. M Sr. Layout Artist Jatin Jain Sr. Designer Rajeev Kumar Production Manager Mukesh Pokhriyal e-magazine Sumer Singh Business Promotion Bobby Bakshi (Delhi) Tapan Kumar (Delhi) Rahul Singh Yadav (Delhi) N. Sabari Selvam (Tirupur) Pavithra R. (Tirupur) Srilekha G (Tirupur) Circulation Archana (Delhi) V. Murugeshwari (Tirupur) Accounts Head Anju Chauhan Tondak CONTENTS Global update 04 Domestic update 18 AEPC starts Incubation and Resource center in Gurgaon 28 Invoke ROO provision To stop cheap textiles imports 30 OEKO-TEX introduces new regulations for AEPC recognises best performers of the apparel industry 38 BRÜCKNER sets the course for the future! 40 Pitti Immagine Filati Head Office Apparel Views Pvt. Ltd. 138/2/9, First Floor, Kishan Garh, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi , INDIA Tel.: , Fax: Regd Office C - 46, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Sector - 22, Dwarka, New Delhi Regional Offices Tirupur No.23, Ground Floor, Indra Nagar, Avinashi Road, Tirupur Tel.: , , Bangalore B.P. Mishra: , Overseas Office Apparel Views Bangladesh Limited Section-1, Road-1, House-21, Priyanka Housing, Mirpur-1, Dhaka 1216, Bangladesh, Tel.: / / / Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor - Arvind Kumar, Printed and Processed by him at Sterling Publisher Pvt. Ltd. A - 59, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase - II, New Delhi , published from C - 46, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Sector - 22, Dwarka, New Delhi Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Kornit Digital launches new HD printing technology for the Avalanche series 48 ZDHC scouring and one bath bleaching technology An absolute innovation in organic chemistry 50 Eurojersey launches new G+ textile collection 52 Stoll trends - Spring/Summer Cifra presents new collection with Evo by Fulgar 64 Wildest Innovations in Clothing Technology in YiwuTex 2018 will promote smart and sustainable textile development 72 Morgan revolutionizing cutting room segment in India 74 Santoni introduces Intarsia X sock machine 79 Forthcoming trade events 80 4/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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6 ADB gives Eastern Bank $20m for apparel sector Compression hosiery market worth $3.7 bn by 2024 Global compression hosiery market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.3 per cent between now and 2024, driven by an increasing prevalence of venous diseases, growing adoption of compression therapy and rising old age population. A new report from Research Nester, Compression Hosiery Market: Global Demand Analysis & Opportunity Outlook 2024, suggests that the global compression hosiery market will be worth $3.7 bn by the end of Women's compression hosiery is projected to witness a significant CAGR during the forecast period and is expected to account for the largest share of revenue across the globe. A high incidence rate of chronic venous insufficiency among women is believed to be the foster the growth of the women compression hosiery market. Further, wide scale utilization of compression hosiery in various cases such as pregnancy and breast cancer is anticipated to intensify the growth of this segment. Growth will also be driven by an increasing adoption of compression therapy as an alternative to DVT (deep vein thrombosis) and other prophylaxis while rising demand for compression products among athletes is expected to further supplement the expansion of market.in terms of innovation, advances in technology and continuous innovation with the materials and design are expected to drive the growth of the compression hosiery market in the long run. Manufacturers of compression hosiery are also providing custom fit compression hosiery which further is anticipated to drive the growth of the market. The report also notes that the high cost of advanced compression hosiery products and lack of awareness are some of the factors that are likely to inhibit the growth of the compression hosiery market in the near future The Asian Development Bank (ADB) recently signed an agreement with Eastern Bank Ltd (EBL) to provide the latter a $20 mn loan to help improve standards and quality in Bangladesh's textile and garment sector. The loan will be used to finance socially and environmentally sustainable projects, specifically, the construction or expansion of factories meeting structural, fire and electrical safety standards, according to a statement from the private commercial bank. It says Bangladesh was currently the second largest exporter of textiles and garments, accounting for about 15 per cent of the gross domestic product and employing more than four mn workers, 85 per cent of whom were women. Ali Reza Iftekhar, Managing Director and Chief Executive of EBL, and Christine Engstrom, Director of Private Sector Financial Institutions Division at ADB, signed the agreement at a hotel in Dhaka. The textile and garment sector is an essential part of the Bangladesh economy, raising incomes for large numbers of workers, particularly women, said Engstrom. We are confident that our partnership will contribute to the improvement of the textile and garment sector, she said. Manmohan Parkash, ADB Country Director for Bangladesh; Hassan O Rashid, additional Managing Director of EBL, and other senior officials from both organisations were present Accord terminates the bonding with 37 more RMG factories Accord on Building and Fire Safety in Bangladesh, a consortium of European brands and buyers, has cut business relations with 37 more Bangladeshi readymade garment factories due to refusal and failure of the factory authorities at implementing workplace safety measures in the units suggested by the buyers platform. With the latest numbers, the Accord has so far cut business relations with 133 RMG factories on the ground of safety issues that produce products for the European brands and buyers. After a deadly building collapse in a garments factory, located at Savar, in 2013 the Accord was formed by EU to improve factory safety in Bangladesh. The platform has so far conducted fire, electrical and structural safety inspection in more than 1,600 RMG factories which are the suppliers of EU buyers and retailers. The overall remediation progress rate of safety issues identified in initial inspections verified as fixed has reached 83 per cent, a recent report of the Accord said. It also said that remediation is close to completion at 699 factories that has completed more than 90 per cent of the remediation while 127 factories have completed all remediation from initial inspections 6/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

7 Sri Lankan Apparel firm launches new supply chain venture One of Sri Lanka's largest knitted fabric and clothing manufacturers has set up a new joint venture to improve its speed to market. MAS Holdings has established the Hellmann MAS Supply Chain (HMSC) in Sri Lanka by combining its own in-house logistics activities and the logistics business of Hellmann Worldwide Logistics. In addition to the existing Hellmann contract logistics business in Sri Lanka being transferred to the new joint venture, a new fashion logistics facility will be opened at the MAS compound in Katunayake Export Promotion Zone (KEPZ). The aim of HMSC is to create a pull model supply chain using Sri Lanka as the hub for major global fashion brands, help produce market specific products by offering value-added services and facilitate an e- commerce channel from the source. HMSC will also manage the procurement and coordination of MAS incoming air freight. Commenting on the JV partnership, Shirendra Lawrence, COO of MAS stated: We are constantly progressing and looking for dynamic companies to connect with to enhance our service offering beyond our traditional value proposition. This strategic partnership with global logistics partner Hellmann is timely as it gives MAS a strong foundation to offer warehousing, value added services and 4th party logistics solutions. Hence, it gives us the opportunity to further enhance our agility and speed to market. HMSC will provide its services to MAS as well as Hellmann s existing contract logistics customers. Services offered by HMSC, which include warehousing, value added services such as repacking, labeling, ratio packing etc. and 4PL logistics services, will also be offered to other potential customers in Sri Lanka. Madhav Kurup, CEO for Hellmann Middle East & South Asia (MESA) added: This joint venture is a clear example of two family owned companies with similar DNA coming together to create a unique expertise in Sri Lanka that will have the ability to provide services of the highest standards in contract logistics and 4PL. Also, this venture helps us position ourselves as the market trend setter in the global fashion supply chain, as it evolves from a push model to pull model. MAS well established credibility with Hellmann s global logistics expertise, systems and processes will make us invincible in the market place KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/7

8 Yarn Expo to offer numerous sourcing options Next month s Yarn Expo Spring in Shanghai will provide buyers with numerous sourcing options that match current industry trends: the rise of innovative synthetic and specialty yarns and increasing demand for eco-friendly products, organisers report. The fair will play host to around 430 exhibitors from more than 10 countries and regions including China, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Korea, Pakistan, Singapore, Thailand, Uzbekistan and Vietnam, providing the around 22,000 trade buyers expected at the fair with a diverse range of yarns and fibres. Birla Planet: The Birla Planet pavilion will include six exhibitors showcasing Birla Viscose, a heavy-metal-free fibre that is well suited to blending with other fibres. According to Peter Dong, Marketing Director of Aditya Birla Group, there will be fierce competition in the industry in 2018 due to total production increasing by 15-20%, but the eco-friendly nature of their products, he believes, will maintain demand for them, especially in China. Sateri Pavilion: Sateri is a well-known brand in China. Specialising in viscose rayon, it is the largest producer of viscose fibre in the country with three mills and an annual capacity of 550,000 tons. Following the success of its debut pavilion at the previous Yarn Expo, it returns again its their members, who will showcase skin-friendly hygiene products made from viscose fibre. Yibin Grace: The company s most popular product is the Gracell fibre, which is made from 100% pure wood pulp making it completely degradable. With high fibre strength and softness, it can be used in knitted products, woven wool fabrics, home textiles, nonwoven facial masks, and high-grade woven fabrics for jeans, trousers and shirts. Jiangsu Guowang High-Technique Fiber: In previous editions of Yarn Expo, many buyers were asking us if we have environmentally friendly products, said Qian Min, Director of the company s Marketing Department. As such, Jiangsu Guowang will showcase new products this edition including low-temperature dyed fibres and heavy-metal-free fibres. Together with Yarn Expo Spring 2018, four other textile trade fairs are held concurrently from March in the same venue: Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Spring Edition, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition, PH Value and the China International Fashion Fair (CHIC) Tricot technology for lace outerwear One of the latest applications from warp knitting machine builder Karl Mayer is the use of its latest tricot technology for the production of a lacelook fabric featuring a variety of designs such as mesh structures with large openings and denser areas. In this example, the eye-catching feature of the outfit is the cropped top, which is made from a feather-light fabric with a lace look, produced on a high-speed tricot machine - the HKS 4-M EL in a gauge of E 28. The machine s EL control facility, the clever yarn threading arrangement, and the sophisticated combination of yarns produce a lace-look fabric featuring a variety of designs, i.e. mesh structures with large openings and dense areas with superimposed scalloped patterns create an alternating striped design.the interplay between the open-work and the dense constructions is produced by the yarns processed in ground guide bars GB 3 and GB 4. A filet threading arrangement and a fully threaded arrangement alternate in sequence. GB 2 and GB 3 work the pattern in the dense areas. Matt/shiny effects bring a touch of extravagance to the graphic look. The shimmering effect is produced by processing monofilament yarns having a trilobal cross-section in the filigree ground, which resembles an embroidery ground. The superimposed design is made from textured polyester multifilament yarns having a large number of filaments a choice of yarns that enables the design to contrast effectively with the ground SHIMA SEIKI to hold private exhibition in Hong Kong SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting machine manufacturer SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. will hold the second edition of its SHIMA CrossTex private exhibition in Hong Kong in February. The SHIMA CrossTex exhibition once again presents connectivity as a key theme. This time, SHIMA SEIKI s SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system will be presented as the centerpiece of the company s Total Fashion System concept that revolutionizes the supply chain by connecting the various stages of product planning, production and sales with one another. By taking advantage of APEX3 s photo-realistic simulation capability, virtual sampling minimizes the need for sample- making, effectively reducing time, material and cost from the sampling process. In addition virtual samples can be used in pre-sales events to forecast demand for upcoming items, or to collect feedback from potential customers. This infor- mation can then be sent back to the planning and production stages for providing optimum inventory of items that are In combination with quick-response WHOLEGARMENT knitting, even more accurate last-minute forecasting is possible, or in the case of stock replenishment, just-in-time inventory assures minimal inventory loss and leftover stock, leading to better profit and less waste for realizing production that is smart, speedy and sustainable 8/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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10 US hosiery maker secures bluesign accreditation Nester Hosiery, the U.S. manufacturer of performance merino wool socks, has joined the bluesign system, which is designed to facilitate sustainable textile production by reducing its impact on people and the environment. To produce bluesign certified socks in our facility has been a long-term goal, said Kelly Nester. Nester Hosiery Chief Executive Officer. With the designation we can provide our current and future partners with the mechanisms to make socks in the most sustainable manner available. bluesign has been designed to help its partners properly manage chemicals and to replace hazardous chemicals with safer alternatives. The system unites all aspects of the supply chain to jointly reduce the impact on people and the environment. With its holistic approach based on Input Stream Management, the bluesign system ensures responsible use of resources and guarantees the highest level of consumer safety. We are glad to be partnering with Nester Hosiery as our first Socks Manufacturer System Partner in the US. Nester Hosiery has shown its leadership in sustainable production and has proven its ability to implement the most stringent criteria for environment protection, occupational health and safety as well as for consumer safety," said Jill Dumain, Chief Executive Officer at bluesign technologies. "The partnership is a step further for the bluesign system to show that responsible production is possible for a complete range of products." Nester Hosiery says it was the first sock manufacturer to submit its facility self-assessment to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition s Higg Index starting in The tool has allowed them to both assess and to obtain insights on areas for improvement. For example, these insights have helped them reduce their solid waste by 16 per cent over the past five years. Nester Hosiery currently produces socks for over two dozen leading brands and retailers, and holds the sock license for the Woolrich brand and Rocky Brands divisions of Rocky Outdoor, Georgia Boot and Durango. In 2013 Nester Hosiery launched Farm to Feet which is committed to creating the world s best socks by exclusively using an all-american production process: US materials, US manufacturing, and US workers SHIMA to showcase hybrid fabrics at Première Vision SHIMA SEIKI, a leading computerised knitting machine manufacturer of Wakayama, will exhibit at the Première Vision show in Paris this month. It will once again participate in the Knitwear Solutions category for the flatbed knit sector as sole machine technologist, following its successful participation in past editions. On display will be the SVR093SP shortbed version of its computerised knitting machine that features a special loop presser bed, capable of producing hybrid inlay fabrics that feature both knit and weave characteristics. Demand for such unique fabrics are very high across a wide range of applications, from fashion apparel to sportswear, innerwear, outerwear, uniforms and other functional clothing, as well as technical textiles, the company reports. Knitted accessory items will also be presented to demonstrate the flexibility of knitting technology. The latest version of SHIMA SEIKI s 3D design system SDSONE APEX3 will also be exhibited at Première Vision. At the core of the company s Total Fashion System concept, APEX3 provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way APEX3 improves on the design evaluation process with its ultrarealistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples minimise the need for actual sample-making. This realises significant savings in time, cost and material, contributing to sustainable manufacturing, the company adds Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics changes dates The 2018 Autumn Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will take place earlier this year, with the industry s leading trade fair running from September instead of its usual October timing.the exhibition will be held again at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), its home since The 2017 fair played host to 4,538 exhibitors from 32 countries and regions, and 77,883 trade buyers from 102 countries and regions. After extensive consultation with all stakeholders over the past year, we have come to the decision to bring forward the Autumn Edition to September, explained Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of fair co-organiser Messe Frankfurt (HK). The Autumn/Winter sourcing season has steadily moved earlier in the year, and this change in timing is necessary to ensure Intertextile Shanghai remains the leading business platform for both suppliers and buyers in the global apparel fabrics and accessories industry. As in previous editions, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will be held concurrently with Yarn Expo Autumn, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value, making this the most comprehensive sourcing platform in the global industry. More information is to follow after the conclusion of next month s Spring Edition, which will take place from March, where some 3,300 exhibitors and around 70,000 trade buyers are expected to converge. Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Autumn Edition 2018 is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK); the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre 10/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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12 Lycra receives Femmy Diamond Jubilee Award Lycra brand team members gathered in New York City attend the Femmy Awards, the premier event of the intimate apparel industry. The Underfashion Club, a charitable organisation comprised of industry professionals, hosted the fundraising gala on 6 February. The group s mission is to attract new talent to the industry and support their education through awards and scholarships. The Lycra brand took home the Diamond Jubilee Award, which recognised its 60 years of innovations. Coincidentally, the Underfashion Club is also celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. Bob Kirkwood, Invista Apparel s Executive Vice President of Marketing & Technology, accepted the award on behalf of the Lycra brand. In his speech he acknowledged the miracle fibre s inventor, Dr Joseph Shivers, who will be inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame this May. He also thanked members of the brand team who continue to drive innovation forward today, as well as the mills, garment makers, brands and retailers whose ongoing support makes the brand s success possible. The Femmy gala also included the 15th Annual Student Design Contest, which featured designs of Fashion Institute of Technology students based on the theme, 60 Years of Intimate Apparel Design. The evening s other honourees were: Retailer Award: Target, Manufacturer Award: Komar Intimates, Supplier Award: Texco Hook & Eye Tape Ltd. And Lifetime Achievement Award: Donald R. Allen, Jr Archroma adds 'universal' non-pfc water repellent protection Textile chemicals specialist Archroma has extended its non-pfc based durable water repellent protection range with the addition of a more nature-friendly offering. Smartrepel Hydro AM offers "exceptional" durable water repellency to polyester, polyamide and cotton-based textiles, and is based on distinctive microencapsulated, highly biodegradable, non-pfc based technology, says the firm. Developed as a 'universal' water repellent, it comes with a new, advanced formulation. It allows fabrics to have a "soft handfeel", while its durability can be boosted with the application of a special formula. For textile manufacturers, the new formulation shows improved runnability and reduced roller buildup, allowing seamless application in both pad and exhaust application processes."this advanced version of our Smartrepel technology combines, into one product only, two benefits that are sought after by outdoor brands and retailers: a nature-friendlier chemistry, together with long-lasting, efficient water repellency for all fibres," says Georg Lang, Global Head of Product Marketing finishing at Archroma. "Smartrepel Hydro AM brings onto the market a positive alternative to conventional fluorocarbon-based water repellency products." Archroma says the range supports the increasing adoption of eco-advanced materials and production processes by brand owners and textile producers adhering to industry initiatives such as the ZDHC programme or eco-label standards such as Bluesign and Oeko-Tex Terrot opens new Technology Centre During a two-day workshop Terrot, a leading manufacturer of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines, and around 50 sales agents made themselves familiar with the current machine and knitting technology developments. The highlight of this sales agent workshop was a special in-house event. The German machine builder from Saxony opened its new Technology Center in December 2017 with its sales representatives and other international guests. As part of the opening, Andreas von Bismarck, Managing Partner of Terrot, symbolically passed on the responsibility for the new Technology Centre to Terrot s Head of Application Advisory Department Thomas Fischer. During the Agents Meet 6, partially revamped and newly developed machines from Terrot and Pilotelli were shown. The machinery exhibition was supported by presentations and live demonstrations. The opening of the new Technology Centre underlined Terrot s recent developments and provides Terrot s Advisory Department more space for creative ideas, the company explained. The Technology Centre is also important for sales events and customer visits. In future customers can experience new machine and technology developments before purchase. The company looks back on more than 150 years of innovation and market leadership. Its customers can choose between different machine types for producing single and double jersey fabrics. Textile manufacturers use Terrot s circular knitting machines to produce high-quality fabrics for different applications, including under- and outerwear as well as technical or home textiles. For several years the German knitting machine builder has been concentrating on customer requirements such as production performance, individuality and fabric quality. Through close customer collaboration and creating a strategic focus Terrot has extended its product portfolio consistently 12/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

13 Stoll and Myant announce an international alliance Advanced manufacturing will get a significant boost in Canada and the US when Stoll and Myant roll out 500 new 3D knitting machines to underpin the growth of functional computing textiles. Stoll, Germany s leading 3D knitting machine company, and Myant Inc., Canada's leading textile computing company, proudly announces a strategic and exclusive collaboration to populate functional computing textile manufacturing in Canada and the US, with 500 state-of-the-art knitting machines from Stoll. This collaboration will have a direct and powerful impact on the textile manufacturing industry worldwide as it raises the bar and sets a new gold standard for functional computing textiles. Myant and Stoll share the vision of disrupting the textile industry with new advancements in Industry 4.0, material science and technical applications for high quality products made in North America. Stoll s machines combined with Myant s end-to-end innovations, from molecule to garment, from textile to wardrobe will truly revolutionize the world of textiles and create a new economy. Stoll and Myant will use this exclusive collaboration for all inquiry of the research, development and engineering of this new domain of functional computing textiles. Andreas Schellhammer, Chief Executive Officer of Stoll, says, Stoll and Myant are aligned in the vision to create a new gold standard for functional computing textiles. Stoll has a longstanding commitment to be a leader at the forefront of growth and innovation in the textile industry. Schellhammer adds, Our collaboration with Myant represents a completely new approach to smart textiles. The demand for smart fabrics has never been higher as companies race to create garments, wearables, industrial, defense, healthcare and household items to connect humans to the Internet of Things. Myant is leading the creation of a new economy in functional computing textiles with Stoll machines. They have the vision and the right interdisciplinary team to make this a global revolution. Tony Chahine, Chief Executive Officer and Founder of Myant, says, Myant and Stoll are taking a big step to democratize manufacturing and resuscitate a making culture in Canada and the US. Chahine adds, Our goal is to reduce the barriers to entry in textile innovation and production and promote collaboration between scientists, doctors, engineers, designers, students, and anyone with a creative idea. I believe that true innovation is only possible when the inventor can actually make the invention. The Stoll machines will have a massive impact on commercialization in the smart textile industry, which is in need of disruption, and will help to speed up the prototyping to production cycle. The collaboration coincides with Myant s plans for expansion into the Canadian and American university-affiliated textile technology centres, featuring Stoll machines. The endeavour will require new disciplines, curricula, and expertise to be developed in the engineering, material sciences, design and manufacturing fields, which is the reason universities and colleges are an essential component of the ecosystem KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/13

14 Italian Textile Machinery orders on the upswing in 2017 The orders index for textile machinery compiled by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, rose by 29 per cent for the period from October to December 2017 compared to the same period for the previous year. The index value stood at points (basis: 100 in 2010). This growth rate affected both foreign markets, for which the index registered an absolute value of 128 points (+23 per cent) and the domestic market in Italy. In the latter case, the increase was 72 per cent compared to the period from October to December 2016, for absolute value of 94.5 points. On an annual basis, the index registered an average increase of 18 per cent with respect to Domestic orders were up 36 per cent, a significant rise that stands to confirm the effectiveness of the government s measures to support investments by Italian manufacturers. Foreign markets also registered a substantial increase in orders for the entire year (+16 per cent). ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi commented on these results as follows: The orders index for 2017 confirms that our sector is in good health, with a production trend that has been growing since Based on updated data for the first nine months of 2017, Italian exports increased 10 per cent compared to the period from January to September 2016, with solid performances by Italian businesses in the industry in all major markets. In Italy, the measures envisaged in the National Industrial Plan 4.0, were responsible for launching purchases of advanced machinery. Zucchi further states that, The textile sector is currently constrained, more than ever before, to attentively look into the applications offered by Industry 4.0. Demand in the industry is evolving continuously, and the concept of timeto-market is taken to extremes, so that the required production processes must be just as fast and interconnected to meet the demands of end consumers. Nonetheless, it would have been difficult to imagine such a significant leverage effect from the 4.0 incentives The Woolmark Company and adidas present the Woolmark Performance Challenge The Woolmark Company and leading sports brand adidas have joined forces to launch a design competition focusing on the development of innovative, forward-thinking products for the performance industry. The Woolmark Performance Challenge is a new annual competition for tertiary students in Europe and North America and is set to kick-start the career of the eventual winner. The competition provides an unrivalled opportunity for tertiary students to develop innovative new product applications within the sports and performance market, by applying the science and performance benefits of Australian Merino wool. Performance apparel is one of the fastest growing sectors in the global textile industry. This growth can be attributed to an emergence of new technologies, new sporting trends and a shift in peoples attitude towards health and fitness. In addition, consumers are becoming more aware of the impact their purchasing decisions have on the planet and are demanding natural alternatives for their product and apparel needs. At adidas we are driven by a constant desire for innovation and its belief that anybody can and should be a creator, explains adidas Senior Design Director Tillmann Studrucker. This unique collaboration with The Woolmark Company gives young creative students the chance to help shape the future of sport, and sports culture. I am looking forward to a lot of creative designs that are considering sustainability with material innovation ideas that blend performance and style, past and future. Taking advantage of the explosive growth in demand for sportswear and activewear, wool's position as a technical fibre allows it to meet increasingly demanding consumer needs for comfort and performance. Wool is recognised by leading sportswear brands and manufacturers for its technical benefits including resistance to odour, superb breathability and moisture management capabilities. The Woolmark Performance Challenge winner will be awarded a cash prize of 10,000 euro, as well as being presented with career development and commercial opportunities including a three-month internship with the Woolmark Performance Challenge's global sports brand partner adidas. This new competition is unique in that it offers the winner hands-on experience with a leading performance brand, said The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. New talent is the future of our business and the industry. The Woolmark Company actively believes in education and fostering the development of the next generation of designers and change-makers. The Woolmark Performance Challenge offers tertiary students the opportunity to develop innovative new product applications within the sports and performance market. What makes this competition even more exciting is the focus on innovation. We have the utmost faith that all submissions will highlight the innovative nature of Merino wool, creating products which will not only take the fibre, but also the larger performance industry, into unchartered territory 14/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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16 HanesBrands invests in 19 Baldwin Precision Application Systems Baldwin Technology Company Inc. s exclusive and innovative Precision Application System which realizes substantial savings of water, chemistry and energy while increasing productivity was designed with companies like HanesBrands in mind. HanesBrands whose venerable apparel lines include Hanes, Champion, Playtex, Bali and Maidenform, to name a few has set significant environmental stewardship goals to reduce energy consumption and water use. The company s recent investment in Baldwin s Precision Application Systems, with a textile finishing technology that allows for accurate and controlled placement and therefore, reduced use of end-of-line chemicals and water, will help HanesBrands achieve its environmental sustainability goals. Additionally, Baldwin s groundbreaking application system improves output through greater flexibility, fewer production steps and increased uptime. Mike Abbott, HanesBrands Global Director of Research and Innovation, said: Baldwin fulfilled our requirements to provide a solution that optimizes our productivity while reducing our environmental impact. HanesBrands thoroughly evaluated the technology for eight months in live production conditions with positive results. Abbott continued: During the evaluation period of the system, we have had outstanding results in productivity increase, and we can clearly see that this technology will make a great contribution to our future efficiency and sustainability savings. Peter Hultberg, Chief Commercial Officer at Baldwin, said: We are honored to partner with one of the world s strongest apparel brands to help the company achieve not only its business goals, but also its corporate responsibility goals. The trust the HanesBrands team placed in Baldwin and our innovative application technology marks an important milestone for Baldwin and our quest to redefine the standards of sustainable textile finishing. The HanesBrands contract includes an option to supply 15 additional Precision Application Systems New dates for ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 The joint owners of the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 exhibition have announced new dates for the sixth combined showcase to be held at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre, Shanghai, this October. The new dates are from October 2018.According to show owners Cematex and Chinese partners, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC), the shift in the exhibition dates is due to a new national initiative, which affected the scheduling of all events at the exhibition centre in October. Since 2008, a combined show known as ITMA Asia + CITME has been held in China, scheduled to take place every two years. Taking off in Shanghai, the milestone event features the unique strengths of the ITMA brand and China's most important textile event CITME. It is a large showcase of innovative solutions for textile makers that supports of all the major trade associations. More than 1,300 exhibitors take part in the show, which is visited by 100,000 trade visitors from all sectors of the global textile industry. The last edition of the event registered a visitorship of over 100,000 from 102 countries and regions. A total of 1,673 exhibitors from 28 countries and regions participated in the exhibition, which covered over 170,000 sq. mtr of gross exhibition space. ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 is organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. Japan Textile Machinery Association is a special partner of the show Sensil warp knit fabric scoops ISPO prize Nilit, the manufacturer of premium Nylon 6.6, and Tiba Tricot, an Italian manufacturer of warp knitted fabrics, have been awarded an ISPO Textrends Top 10 in the Base Layer Category.The awardwinning fabric combines the unique softness and athletic performance benefits of the SensilInnergy premium Nylon 6.6 with Tiba s knitting and fabric design skills. The fabric is said to be perfect for base layer applications because it is ultra-light and exquisitely soft against the skin. Moreover, SensilInnergy gently reflects energy back to the body to warm and invigorate muscles for improved athletic performance and recovery as well as to reduce the appearance of cellulite. We are so happy that this very special fabric made by our longtime partner, Tiba Tricot, has been recognised with this prestigious honor, said Pierluigi Berardi, Nilit Global Marketing Director. This remarkable fabric shows what can be created when our premium Nylon 6.6 yarns connect with talented designers and state-of-the-art fabric manufacturing capabilities. The finest fabrics start with the best fibres like SensilInnergy, said Giovanni Brugnoli at Tiba With its special FIR technology, SensilInnergy infuses fabrics with superior comfort, outstanding performance, and unique benefits. The SensilInnergy/Tiba fabric also boasts beautiful drape, increased durability, and the added features of UV protection and odorresistance. Sensil was created in response to evolving consumer attitudes and rapidly shifting retail shopping trends and, with its launch, immediately elevated the quality standard for Nylon /KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

17 New dyeing solution for wash-fast swimwear Huntsman has developed a new dyeing solution which it claims sets a new standard in terms of wash-fastness and colour saturation for the polyamide/elastane blends favoured in the swimwear business.vibrant blocks of color and high-contrast black and white continue to dominate in the swimwear market. But achieving these deep shades and striking contrasts is difficult on the polyamide/elastane (PA/EL) blends favored in the swimwear business. These blends deliver high resilience and elasticity, but tend to have limited wash- and wet-fastness. Conventional PA dyes bond to the PA fibres with only weak links and can bleed onto adjacent fibres during home laundering and fade dramatically with repeated washing. The risk of bleeding and fading increases with increasing shade depth and at higher washing temperatures of 50 C or more. PA micro-fibres are even more susceptible to bleeding, as they require a much higher dye concentration than regular PA fibre to reach the same colour strength. To overcome these challenges, Huntsman Textile Effects developed the innovative ERIOFAST micro exhaust dyeing process. Designed to deliver deep saturated shades, including black and navy, with maximum wash-fastness on all PA fibres, it produces excellent results even on difficult micro-denier PA fibres, fully de-lustered with titanium dioxide (TiO2) and with a low concentration of amino groups. According to Huntsman, the process is short and easy to perform, using patented ERIOFAST dyes and requiring no capital investment in equipment. The patented ERIOFAST micro process combines three unique elements: ERIOFAST reactive acid dyes, which have very small molecules so they migrate during dyeing before developing the final fastness during after-treatment with ERIOFAST FIX Inexpensive calcium chloride salt (CaCl2), which is introduced to increase the affinity and build-up of ERIOFAST dyes on PA fibres and removed during rinsing ERIOFAST FIX, a new crosslinking agent, which reacts with the ERIOFAST dye molecules to link them together with a solid covalent bond, whether or not these dye molecules are already linked with the PA fibre This new exhaust dyeing process is said to deliver deep shades on PA fibres and blends, with market-leading wash-fastness. These intensive shades stay bright after repeated washes, and colours will not bleed or stain other garments, even at the high temperatures encountered in home and industrial laundering KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/17

18 Digistar t-sonic and j-nexter the new sublimation digital inks JK Group will attend Fespa Asia (Bangkok February- Stand C30) introducing the latest dye sublimation inks to the portfolios of its premium brands Kiian Digital and J-Teck. Kiian Digital brand will exhibit Digistar T-Sonic, the new sublimation ink for transfer printing designed for Panasonic printheads. T-Sonic is specially formulated the new generation of industrial dye-sublimation textile printers. The new ink stands out due to its excellent reliability and drying quickness of the printed paper and the superior colour gamut. Marco Girola JK Group Marketing Specialist - says we are very excited about T-Sonic as it perfectly suited to exploit the high productivity potentiality of advanced printing-systems better exploiting, while providing high-quality prints results. J-Teck brand will present J-Nexter. Global leader J- Teck s newest ink inks in its exhaustive brand portfolio has been developed at J-Teck Lab to allow exceptional performances with Epson last generation printheads for specific dye sublimation inkjet printers. J-Nexter stands out for the high compatibility Epson Printheads in any printing condition, with key product quality attributes that include fast drying on any kind of paper and colours high intensity highlights Marco Girola JK Group Marketing Specialist - JK Group Sales Director Alessandra Borghi added The new products attest to JK Group s dedication to respond to the market evolution with continued technological advancements for our customers ; ends Borghi We are conscious that high compatibility with printers and print heads is the key to serve the sublimation digital market and to maintain the confidence of printing professionals. At the show it will be possible to see Sawgrass Industrial water-based portfolio based on its deep experience as well as to talk about JK Group s Textile Standard Program. JK Group takes its commitment to customers and future generations very seriously, in fact, the water based product portfolios are based on the most severe worldwide directives, regulations and norms as well as on the voluntary compliance requirements of the top brands Sensient launches latest digital pigment ink Sensient Imaging Technologies, a division of Sensient Technologies Corporation, announced the introduction of a new range of high performance digital pigment inks, Xennia Emerald PC, suitable for direct printing of textiles. Based on innovative dispersion and binder technology, Xennia Emerald PC changes the game for printers by offering excellent colour strength with unrivalled printing performance. Sensient was the first company to release a digital pigment ink for textiles, and today has applied all the learnings from the market to provide a solution to take digital pigment printing to the next level. With the introduction of Xennia Emerald PC, Sensient once again sets the standard. Designed to maximise printing performance in production environments, Emerald PC inks also offer the peak in colour performance with an optimized ink set to provide an extended gamut. Emerald PC inks deliver minimised pre and post processing by including a revolutionary binder technology within the ink, eliminating the need to use a post application fixing polymer. "Key to the performance of Emerald PC is including a binder within the ink whilst increasing color strength at the same time as maximizing open time and latency", commented Dr. Ian Whitehead, Innovation Director for Sensient Inks. "Sensient s highly skilled innovation team have delivered a solution for the market without having to compromise in any aspect of printing" adds Jerome Jeanneret, General Manager for Sensient s Ink business. "A further key advantage of Xennia Emerald PC inks is their cross compatibility with printhead technologies, allowing proofing and production with the same ink set providing ultimate flexibility for users with multiple systems." The digital pigment inks developed under the Xennia Emerald platform are designed and manufactured in Morges, Switzerland, and have been formulated for use in Piezo-based printers for applications such as fashion, home textiles and sports. Successfully printed on a range of digital printers, the developed inks show exceptional print and colour performance EFI Optitex launches 3D Design Illustrator to customize 3D garments EFI Optitex, a world leading provider of integrated 2D & 3D CAD/CAM apparel platform technology, has launched the Optitex 3D Design Illustrator, a plugin tool allowing designers the freedom to validate and customize 3D garments in Adobe Illustrator. The new 3D Design Illustrator was announced at 19th annual EFI Connect users conference in Las Vegas. Through working in the native design environment on a PC or a Mac, designers can visualize 3D garments, with accurate proportion and scaling, and customize the garment s fabric, texture, print patterns and graphic placement without waiting for a printed sample. The plug-in works by importing 2D and 3D pattern files or building block libraries into Adobe Illustrator and activating a window with a 3D representation of the pattern side-by-side. Users can export the final file as a picture or 3D file, validate designs among teams, and send directly for digital or sublimation printing. 3D adoption is already a necessity for nearly every successful fashion company, and in that space, it is important to onboard all teams from design to production, said Guy Alroy, Head of Textile Product Management, EFI Productivity Software. Now, entire teams can enable 3D capabilities to streamline the whole design to print workflows, letting them focus on creativity, reduce physical prototypes, and get to market faster than before 18/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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20 Tirupur textile producers to reach customers thru e-com platform Amazon.com Inc, the world's largest e-commerce company, to provide its platform soon for Tirupur knitwear manufacturers to promote their brands and reach customers. As only a few companies here have succeeded in reaching to customers directly, that is in business to consumer-b2c market. Only big players who could afford the cost of networking were able to promote their own brands. But with the help of e- commerce companies, even small manufacturers could promote their goods. The partnership with Amazon, and also Flipkart, another e-commerce player who earlier had approached Tirupur exporters association, would provide equal ground to all manufacturers to grow in b2c market, said President of TEA, Raja M Shanmugham. Amazon has witnessed huge interest across the world for apparel and other textile goods from Tirupur. They see huge potential for small and medium enterprises to scale up their export through b2c e-commerce channel across categories like T-shirts, dresses other consumer textile products, said Abhijit Kamra, Head - Global Selling, Amazon India. Keeping this in mind, Amazon and FICCI-CMSME (confederation of micro, small and medium enterprises) have conducted a workshop for the apparel exporters in the city. Amazon teams would help exporters and manufactures to familiarise with the demand patterns in various countries and to launch products in accordance with local tastes. According to Prabhu Dhamodharan, Secretary of Indian Texpreneurs Federation, with e-commerce projecting to attain overwhelming growth, the apparel manufacturers should transform themselves to b2c market with the help of players like Amazon, emphasizing the importance of tapping the opportunity Tirupur textile manufacturing units to get classified under MSMEs Textile manufacturing units in Tirupur knitwear cluster to get classified under micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) based on the annual turnover, and not on the investments made on plant and machinery. As per the new classification, the units with annual turnover less than `5 cr would be termed micro enterprise, the units with annual turnover of more than `5 cr and less than `75 cr would be put under small enterprise category, and the units with turnover between `75 cr and `250 cr would be classified as medium enterprise. They can now avail the government benefits extended for such units following the changes made in classification criteria of industrial units. According to Tirupur Exporters and Manufacturers Association Secretary G. R Senthivel, the new classification will trigger growth and encourage ease of doing business. S. Dhananjayan, advisor to many textile bodies said that this is a significant step, which will now enable almost 98 per cent of the textile manufacturing units in Tirupur to get classified under MSMEs. The earlier criteria prevented unit having more than `10 cr capital investment on plant and machinery from being classified as MSME Textile Ministry seeks early nod for `170-cr knitwear package The Textile Ministry is expecting the Finance Ministry to clear `170 cr special package for the knitwear sector at the earliest as it is an employment intensive sector so any effort to boost investment will boost job creation and lift sagging exports. The knitwear industry, which mainly comprises small and medium enterprises, was left out in the earlier scheme of things. Exporters believe that the package can ease the pain especially after the goods and services tax rollout. The official said that the consultation between the Textile and Finance Ministry is currently stuck on the issue of the monetary resources needed for the package, amounting to around `170 cr. The package will be announced as soon as the finance ministry gives its go-ahead, as no Cabinet approval was needed for the proposal entailing less than `200 cr. The move comes in the backdrop of the reforms announced by the government for generation of one crore jobs in the textile and apparel industry over next three years. The Textiles Ministry had earlier rolled out similar plans for the apparel as well as the made-ups, which includes towels and decorative cotton products etc. The official said that they have given it to apparel and made-ups, knitwear is also a finished product, so its natural that a package for it is being finalised 20/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

21 India could be one-stop sourcing spot for Asean s textile wants India has the potential to become a onestop sourcing destination for brands and retailers from, said Textile Minister at an event. Opportunities exist for textile manufacturers from the 10-nation bloc to invest in India and cater to the domestic market as well as exports, the Minister added. Irani, who was addressing a seminar on India-Asean weaving textile relations, said India has strengths in production and exports of almost all kinds of and apparel including all handloom and handicraft products that demonstrate the unique skills of the country s weavers and artisans. In the year 2016, India exported textiles and apparel worth $1,203 mn to Asean and imported textiles and apparel worth $546 mn from Asean, Irani said, adding that this was just a testimonial to the way forward. With ability to produce a diverse range of products, India has the potential to become the one-stop sourcing destination for brands and retailers of Asean nations, the Minister said. I am hopeful that this is just one of the many areas where we can participate and leverage our strengths, Irani observed. Earlier during his address, Textiles Secretary said India was strong and competitive across the entire value chain starting from raw materials to finished products. He added, Though India has the unique advantage of having the presence of the entire textile value chain, its most exported items to Asean consisting of cotton fibre, cotton yarn and fabrics have not grown to the desired extent. This makes it evident that we have not been able to explore and leverage the strengths of our textiles industry to the fullest India's WPI inflation for apparel down 0.3% in Jan '18 India s annual rate of inflation, based on monthly wholesale price index (WPI), stood at 2.84 per cent for the month of January 2018 over same month of last year. The index for apparel declined by 0.3 per cent to in January, according to the provisional data released by the Office of the Economic Adviser, Ministry of Commerce and industry. The official WPI for all commodities (Base: = 100) for the month of January 2018 rose by 0.1 per cent to from for the previous month, the data showed. The index for manufactured products (weight per cent) for January 2018 rose by 0.6 per cent to from for the previous month. The index for Manufacture of Wearing Apparel sub-group declined by 0.3 per cent to from for the previous month due to lower price of manufacture of knitted and crocheted apparel (1 per cent). The index for primary articles (weight per cent) declined by 1.5 per cent to from for the previous month. The index for fuel and power (weight per cent), on the other hand, increased by 0.4 per cent to 96.9 from 96.5 for the previous month due to higher price of non-coking coal, bitumen, ATF, naphtha, furnace oil, kerosene, HSD and petrol Textile exports fall 13 per cent in January Textile exports fell 13 per cent year-on-year (y-o-y) to `9,704 cr in January on the back of a sharp slide in cotton textile exports. Cumulative exports of textile and apparel products dropped 4 per cent y-o-y to `1.87 lakh cr in April- January While cotton textile exports declined 1 per cent y-o-y to `53,818 cr during the timeframe, apparel exports decreased 5 per cent y-o-y to `88,709 cr, data sourced by Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) showed. The share of textile and apparel exports (in overall exports) has also declined from 14 per cent to 12 per cent in January 2018 as compared to the corresponding period the previous year, said Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI. One of the key factors for decline in exports is embedded duties, which are more than 5 per cent, and the same is not getting refunded at any stage, he stated. Incidentally, the fall in exports comes at a time when there has been a continuous rise in imports of textile products after the implementation of GST. Import of textile yarn, fabric and made-ups has increased by 15 per cent y-oy to `9,914 cr during April- January This is posing a big threat to the Indian textile industry as post-gst the effective import duties have come down sharply, thus, making imports cheaper for the domestic industry by 15 per cent 20 per cent, Jain said. He urged the government to offer export incentives for cotton yarn as it is the most vulnerable sector. Cotton yarn exports plunged by more than 26 per cent between and despite the textile industry adding over 3 mn spindles and 62,000 rotors in spinning capacity during this timeframe, he pointed out. India can retain its competitiveness in the global market by including cotton yarn under MEIS (merchandise exports from India scheme) and providing ROSL (rebate of state levies) package for fabric and cotton yarn, Jain said. The industry has been asking the government for increase in customs duty across the value chain (yarn and fabric), he said. There is a greater need to impose safeguard measures such as Rules of Origin, Yarn Forward and Fabric Forward Rules on countries like Bangladesh and Sri Lanka that have FTAs (free trade agreements) with India to prevent cheaper fabrics produced from countries like China routed through these countries, the CITI Chairman stated KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/21

22 India not to impose anti-dumping duty on PSF imports The Directorate General of Anti-dumping and Allied Duties (DGAD), under the Commerce Ministry, Government of India, has concluded that imposition of anti-dumping is not warranted on imports of polyester staple fibre (PSF) from China, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. The period of investigation (POI) was 18 months from April 1, 2015 to September 30, The investigation was initiated following an application filed by Alok Industry Limited, Indo Rama Synthetics (India) Limited and The Bombay Dyeing & Mfg. Co. Ltd. for imposition of anti-dumping duty on imports of non-dyed PSF ranging from 0.6 to 6 Deniers, excluding recycled PSF and specialty fibres namely, cationic dyeable, fire/flame retardant, low melt and bi-component fibres from China, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. Non-dyed PSF ranging from 0.6 to 6 Deniers are predominantly used to spin yarn of 100 per cent PSF or in blends with natural, artificial and/or synthetic staple fibres for manufacture of textiles, sewing thread, other industrial textiles, nonwoven applications, etc. Though the import of product under consideration (PUC) has increased during POI as compared to base year, however, the quantum is not substantial as compared to total demand in India. The share of imports is only 7 per cent which is not significant enough to cause material injury to domestic industry, DGAD said. The PUC has been exported to India from all the subject countries at dumped prices as compared to its normal value in the respective subject countries. However, the same are not solely responsible for causing material injury to the domestic industry as reflected by the analysis of various economic parameters, the DGAD notification said. The investigation concluded that there is insufficient evidence to conclusively establish that dumping has caused material injury to the domestic industry. It is evident by the positive growth in domestic industry s production capacity, production, sale volume, market share etc Reduction in tax for MSMEs to benefit Tamil Nadu textile firms The reduction of corporate tax to 25 per cent for companies with turnover upto `250 cr will benefit textileand garment firms in Tamil Nadu, according to the Coimbatore based Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF). The textile body also welcomed the increase in budgetary support to the textile sector in the Union Budget laid in Parliament. This Budget will infuse confidence among the medium-sized companies in India, commented ITF convenor Prabhu Dhamodharan soon after Finance Minister Arun Jaitley finished his Budget speech. Explaining the benefit of reduction in corporate tax, Dhamodharan said, Majority of Spinning and apparel companies in Tamil Nadu are within the `250 cr turnover bracket. So, the tax reduction to 25 per cent will give a direct benefit to us and it will help us to speed up our plans in solar investments to achieve self-sustaining status in our energy requirements. He also welcomed the 20 per cent increase in budgetary support to the textile sector, which has now increased to `7,148 cr for He said that this will help the textile sector, as it will result in clearance of pending ROSL dues. He hailed the proposed schemes to encourage bond markets in India, as it will help the Indian corporate sector to explore alternative financial options like bonds. However, the major focus of the budget was development of the agricultural and rural economy. Focus on agro sector is the need of the hour and this budget rightly focused on the same. The (new) budgetary supports may help in achieving more yield per hectare in cotton and more crop output will help Indian textile sector in the long run, Dhamodharan said Textile packages gave 16 per cent boost to exports The Textile package boosted exports of key man-made ready-made garments by 16 per cent as per the Economic Survey The document, which was tabled in Lok Sabha noted that the apparel sector has immense potential to drive economic growth, increase employment, and empower women in India. In June 2016, the Cabinet had announced `6,000 cr package for the apparel sector. The largest component of this package were rebates on state levies (ROSL) to offset indirect taxes levied by the states (the VAT) that were embedded in exports. This ROSL was over and above the duty drawbacks and other incentives, such as Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS) that were given to offset indirect taxes embedded in exports. Prior to the package, duty drawbacks were between 7.5 per cent per cent for apparels. After the package, the ROSL increased export incentives by between 2.8 per cent per cent, as per the survey. Further, as per the findings of the survey, the package increased exports of readymade garments (RMG) made of man-made fibres (MMFs). However, the package did not have a statistically positive impact on RMG made of other fibres, such as silk, cotton. Also, the impact on MMF-RMGs increased gradually over time; by September 2017, the cumulative impact was about 16 per cent over other comparator groups 22/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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24 Gujarat Govt. exempting all textile fabric from e-way bill The Gujarat State Government has issued a notification under the Gujarat Goods and Service Tax Act, 2017 exempting all the textile fabric from generating the e-way bill for intra-city and intra-state movement. The rule will come into force from February 1, which is welcomed by the traders in the country's largest man-made fabric (MMF) wholesale market Surat recently. However, the intra-city and intra-state movement of yarn, which is the basic raw material for the powerloom sector, will have to generate e- way bill along with other 18 items described in the notification. Sources in the traders' community said that the decision of Gujarat Government will go a long way in curbing the problems faced by the textile traders regarding the generation of e-way bill for the intra-city and intra-state movement of the textile fabrics. However, the traders will continue to demand the extension of the national e-way bill for another six months. Narandra Saboo, owner of Manbhari Prints said that the decision was long awaited and the entire traders' community is happy. They, now request the Central Government to simplify the e-way bill process for the inter-state movement of the textile fabric. Director of Laxmipati saris and textile leader, Sanjay Saraogi said that now, the fabric parcels moving out of the textile shops at Ring Road will not require e-way bill. However, the inter-state e- way bill is still required for the traders India's yarn, fabrics, made-ups imports rise 20 per cent in Dec India s imports of yarn, fabrics and made-up articles during December last year rose by 20 per cent over the figure in the same month in 2016, according to the Ministry of Commerce and industry. Apparel exports, however, dropped 0.3 per cent in April-December 2017 and 8 per cent in December, which is being attributed by some to duty drawback rates revision. However, total export of textile and apparel rose by 2 per cent between April and December 2017 over the first nine months of , according to a report. The Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) sees this as a matter of concern as export data of Bangladesh showed India imported garments worth $111.3 mn during July-December 2017 from Bangladesh, which was 66 per cent higher as against the same period of the previous year. Imports of knitted apparel from Bangladesh were worth $20.6 mn in July- December 2016 and rose to $36.5 mn between July-December last year. Cotton prices and yarn prices are going up in the domestic market and the government has reduced the duty drawback rates. After the implementation of the goods and services tax, exporters do not know yet what refund will they get on duties paid on exports. CITI feels there was a need to impose safeguards such as rules of origin, yarn forward and fabric forward rules on nations like Bangladesh and Sri Lanka that had free trade agreements with India and China. Garment manufacturers in India have to pay duty on imported fabrics, while Bangladesh can import fabric from China duty-free, convert it into garments, and sell to India dutyfree, CITI Chairman Sanjay Jain said in a statement Increase in duty will discourage cheap import of textile products Textiles Minister Smriti Zubin Irani said that the hike in customs duty on silk and manmade fibre, announced in the Budget, will discourage cheap imports of textile products from China and benefit the local manufacturers. Increase in customs duty on silk and manmade fibre will discourage cheap Chinese textile products from flooding the market and benefit domestic manufacturers in the power loom sector, Irani said in New Delhi on Budget allocation for the Ministry. On reduction of corporate tax to 25 per cent from 30 per cent announced in the Budget, the Minister said that reclassification of micro, medium and small enterprises (MSMEs) and reduction in tax by 5 per cent of enterprises having turnover up to `250 cr will help the manufacturing and increase employability in the textiles sector. Of the `6000 cr special package, which was announced in 2016, for the textiles sector, `1800 cr have already been released and `300 cr will be released during the current financial year, Irani informed. In the Budget , an outlay of `7,148 cr has been proposed for the textile sector. The Minister also spoke about 100 per cent increase in allocation for textiles sector for skill development. The correction in the GST (Goods and Services Tax) rates on hand made and machine made garments has created ease of doing business in these sectors, she said. The rate of GST on yarn has been reduced to 12 per cent from 18 per cent and on job work has been cut down to 5 per cent from 18 per cent. Support for merchandise scheme has been enhanced from 2 per cent to 5 per cent for the apparel sector. Attributing the 16 per cent growth in apparel sector to the effective implementation of subsidy schemes, Irani said that the Government has disbursed `138 cr to weavers under the Mudra Loan Yojana and 1.8 lakh workers from garment industry have formally joined the Employees Provident Fund Organisation (EPFO). She further said that the second round of Hastkala Shivirs will be organised from February 19 to 24 in various parts of the country with a special focus on North East region, in order to encourage weavers. In the first round Hastkala Shivirs, 394 camps were held in 247 districts all over the country from October 7 to 17 last year 24/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

25 UP Govt. invite Tirupur knitwear industrialists to invest in their state Atwo-member team from the Uttar Pradesh Government, Mrityunjay Kumar Narayan, the Secretary to UP Chief Minister, and Sunil Yadav, Assistant Director of Handloom and Textiles, visited garment manufacturing units at Nethaji apparel park in New Tirupur and other places to invite knitwear industrialists to invest in a textile cluster to be formed in their state. Ahead of UP Investors Summit, which will be held on February 21-22, the representatives presented their offers for the interested industrialists and had a discussion with members of South Indian Hosieries Manufacturers Association (SIHMA) at their office. Comparing to other states, UP s offers - subsidies in capital and machinery investments and transportation expenditures, tax benefits, employee provident fund and employee state insurance - were found to be attractive. The UP Government team said that they have planned to have special purpose vehicle (SPV) and textile parks to establish needed infrastructure, said Shashi Agarwal, Joint Secretary of SIHMA. They have invited the industrialists to participate in their state s investors summit. They may even have further visits here, if needed. Since Tirupur which has seemed to be attained saturation point in the knitwear business was posing labour shortage and other issues, the industrialists may look for investment options in the states like UP. With a significant part of the industry s labour force is constituted of people from UP, Bihar, Odisha and North-Eastern States, it would be an advantage to get sufficient labour if such investments were made. However, the industrialists have admitted that there was no significant migration of such investments in any of the states which were trying to attract the textile sector investments from Tamil Nadu, as it would not be easy for other states to replicate the Tirupur s successful model. Raja M Shanmugham, President of Tirupur Exporters Association said that the textile industry is one which can help to generate large number of employments, many states, of late, were trying to woo Tirupur industrialists. There would be expertise in each processes including embroidery and printing in the cluster, which could be thrived significantly with proper knowledge sharing. S Govindappan, Vice-President of SIHMA, said that even if those states provide attractive investment offers, it would not be more difficult to get either skilled labour force or raw materials or processing units there. For instance, the Karnataka Government was trying to lure the industrialists to set up units in an industrial estate in Chamarajanagar District on Tamil Nadu-Karnataka border, there were no takers. Uttar Pradesh was the seventh state to send its representatives. Earlier, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, and Odisha have sent their representatives to woo the Tirupur industrialists KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/25

26 Reclassification of MSMEs will help Indian textiles The reclassification of micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) and 5 per cent reduction in tax on annual turnover of companies up to `250 cr will help manufacturing and increase employability in textiles sector, Indian Textiles Minister Smriti Irani has said. Domestic manufacturers will also benefit from increase in customs duty on silk. In the Budget presented recently by Finance Minister Arun Jaitley, customs duty has been raised on silk. This will discourage low-priced Chinese textile products from flooding the Indian market, Irani said at a press conference. Domestic powerloom manufacturers will benefit from increase in customs duty on man-made fibre, she added. Of the `6,000 cr special package, announced for the garment sector in 2016, `1,800 cr has already been released and `300 cr more will be released during the current financial year, the minister informed. She also spoke about 100 per cent increase in allocation for skill development in textiles sector. The correction in the GST rates on handmade and machine-made garments has created ease of doing business in these sectors, she said. GST rate has been reduced on yarn from 18 per cent to 12 per cent and GST on job work has been brought down from 18 per cent to 5 per cent. In addition, support for merchandise scheme has been enhanced from 2 per cent to 5 per cent for the apparel sector. Irani attributed 16 per cent growth in apparel sector to the effective implementation of subsidy schemes. `138 cr has been disbursed to 28,000 weavers as Mudra loan and 1.8 lakh garment workers have formally joined Employees Provident Fund Organisation (EPFO). The minister further said that the second round of Hastkala Shivirs will be organised in different parts of the country with special focus on North East region from February 19 to 24. She has also written to Members of Parliament to actively participate in these camps in order to encourage weavers New Indian representative of SHIMA SEIKI As of January 2018, leading Japanese flat knitting machine manufacturer SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. is represented by a new sales and service agent in India, Voltas Limited. Accordingly, representation by our former Indian agent Janaksons International is terminated as of 31st December Voltas Limited is a large engineering firm in India and is part of the Tata group of companies. SHIMA SEIKI is represented by its Textile Machinery Division, which handles sales and service support for SHIMA SEIKI products throughout the Indian market. We at SHIMA SEIKI assure our customers that abundant support continues to be provided through this new partnership. Voltas Limited is the latest addition to SHIMA SEIKI's worldwide sales and service network that covers 112 locations in 84 countries around the world Arunachal's sericulture proposal pending with India's CSB The Arunachal Pradesh Government has submitted a proposal for a sericulture project worth `95 cr to the Central Silk Board (CSB), the State s Commissioner of Textile and Handicraft Tahang Taggu said recently at a farmers fair at Sille Sericulture Farm in East Siang District. He urged silk farmers to adopt scientific practices with commercial objectives. The state has prepared a five-year plan for rearing mulberry, eri and muga silk and is fully dependent on Central Government funding to implement the project, he said. Taggu suggested the farmers to take attend training programmes periodically to gain technical knowledge about sericulture, according to a report. According to SN Gogoi, scientist at the Regional Sericulture Research Station in Assam s Jorhat, from the budgetary estimate of `230 cr for North-Eastern States to run a three-year sericulture project, `30 cr has been earmarked for a mulberry project in Arunachal Pradesh. He said scientists have recommended S-1635 high yielding mulberry plant for rearing silk breeds SK-6, SK-7 and B- coccon-2 for the state Silk sector in India's North-East high priority Indian Minister of State for Textiles Ajay Tamta recently said developing the silk sector as a viable option for livelihood in north-eastern states is a high priority for his Ministry. He was addressing the three-day 8th International Conference on Wild Silk in Guwahati organised by the International Society for Wild Silk Moths, Japan, and Central Silk Board. India s North-Eastern States accounts for about 21 per cent of the country's silk production and produces all four varieties of silk muga, eri, tassar and mulberry. Muga, known for its golden colour, is found only in that region and Assam owns the geographical indication (GI) tag for that variety. About 3.1 lakh families in Assam are associated with the silk sector, a report quoted State handloom and Textile Minister Ranjit Dutta as saying. The Centre Government has sanctioned about 24 silk projects worth `809 cr for the region, Secretary in the Textiles Ministry Anant Kumar Singh said 26/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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28 Dr. A. Sakthivel elected as the Vice Chairman of AEPC Padma Shri Dr. A. Sakthivel has been unanimously elected as the Vice Chairman of Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) for the period Dr. A. Sakthivel has previously been the Chairman of AEPC for three tenures in the year 1998, 2004 & 2012 and has also been a member of Executive Committee of AEPC for the last 35 years. During his earlier tenures, he had steered projects like the Knitwear Technology Mission, the Sector Skill Council for Apparel, a national Social Compliance Project for apparel sector and several other initiatives for holistic development of the sector. In his eminent career of more than four decades, Dr. Sakthivel has held various positions including that of the Chairman of Indo American Chamber of Commerce (IACC). He is the Founder President of Tirupur Exporters Association (TEA) and has served the TEA for 25 years. For his role in placing Tirupur on the World Map as the main cluster for sourcing knitwear supplies from India and his contribution to Apparel Industry, the Government of India bestowed him with Padma Shri in the year A guide and mentor to Tirupur knitwear Industry, Dr Sakthivel has steered the growth of exports from Tirupur from a mere `15 cr in to more than `27,000 cr in the year Dr. Sakthivel has also served as the President of Federation of Indian Exports Organisations (FIEO) and currently holds the position of FIEO Chairman for Southern Region. He is the first Chairman of Sector Skill Council for Apparel, Made-ups & Handlooms (SSCAMH) which has the mandate to develop skills repository standards, evaluation criterion, accreditation system for creating employability in the apparel sector. He is also the Chairman of Poppys Knitwear, Tirupur which exports to over 50 countries worldwide and is a trusted supplier to global brands like Marks & Spencer s, Next and Tesco, Waitrose, Mothercare, Debenhams, John Lewis, etc Grasim to increase VSF capacity by 58% to 788 KTPA To tap the strong demand growth of VSF (viscose staple fibre) and maintain its leadership position, Grasim, a part of Aditya Birla Group, will increase its total VSF capacity by 58 per cent to 788 KTPA. This is in addition to the existing plan at the cost of ` 802 cr. The company has also committed a fresh capex of `3,523 cr for capacity expansion. The net revenue of Grasim increased 24 per cent y-o-y for the third quarter of fiscal 2018 on the back of higher volumes and better realisation. The company's EBITDA was recorded at `462 cr, up 15 per cent y-o-y in the third quarter of The domestic VSF market demand remained buoyant with sales volume up by 9 per cent y-o-y. "The uptrend in domestic caustic soda prices continues in the current quarter, driven by supply related issues in China and Europe and robust demand from major consuming segments (alumina and textile)," Grasim said in a press release. "The VSF business will continue to focus on expanding the market in India by partnering with the textile value chain, achieving better customer connect through brand Liva and enriching the product mix through a larger share of specialty fibre. The new capacities likely to come on stream in China may impact the global VSF prices in the near term," the press release added. The demand for caustic soda in India is expected to grow with rising consumption from the alumina and textile sectors. The brownfield expansion of 144 KTPA caustic soda at Vilayat, Gujarat is expected to be commissioned by March 2018 Hyosung Corp to invest `3,000 cr in Maharashtra spandex project Hyosung Corporation of South Korea, the largest global spandex producer, is likely to invest around `3,000 cr in a manufacturing facility in Maharashtra, a top government official said today. The project will be set up in Aurangabad Industrial City (AURIC), a greenfield smart industrial city being developed across 10,000 acres, as part of the Delhi- Mumbai Industrial Corridor (DMIC), the official said. "Hyosung Corporation is likely to invest around `3,000 cr in a manufacturing facility in Maharashtra. In the first phase of the project, the company will invest `1,250 cr and the State Government will soon take a decision on its request to allot 100 acres land near Aurangabad," the official told. "Work on the project will begin in April this year and the production is expected to start in May next year," the official said. The land cost would be around `120 cr and the company has already paid around five per cent of the amount, he said. Around 1,000 jobs are expected to be generated in the first phase of the project, the official said. During his visit to South Korea in September 2017, Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis had met Hyosung Corporation President H S Cho. Hyosung Chairman and CEO Cho Hyun-joon will be attending the 'Magnetic Maharashtra' investor summit in Mumbai, the official said. Hyosung, a leading chemical and technological textile company, had then evinced an interest in investing in spandex manufacturing for the textile sector, the official said. Hyosung Corporation feels that India is a key focus market for the company, which is working with several leading Indian players in the textile field, he said. The market size for spandex yarn in India is estimated to be over 1,500 metric tonnes this year and the growth of Indian spandex market has been over 10 per cent between 2014 and 2015, he said 28/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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30 AEPC starts Incubation and Resource center in Gurgaon With the aim of providing a launch pad for startups and requisite know how to set-up and operate a manufacturing facility and information on foreign markets to its members, Apparel Export promotion council (AEPC) has started an incubation and resource center at its head office in Gurgaon. The Center will serve as a startup Incubation center where entrepreneurs from Textile/ Apparel/ Fashion sector will work, interact and accelerate their companies. The center will provide an opportunity to startups to connect with investors, mentors and corporates. The resource facility will also provide an opportunity to startup entrepreneurs to undergo training and participate in workshops and competitions conducted by the industry partners of AEPC. Commenting on this occasion, AEPC Chairman, Ashok Rajani said, I am glad to announce the launch of the incubation and resource facility here in Gurgaon. India is world s second largest exporter of textiles and the textile and clothing sector accounts for around 5 per cent of country's GDP and 15 per cent of industrial output supporting Indian manufacturing companies to enter and expand in foreign markets is one of the main mission of the AEPC and to help the council in the fulfilment of its objective, the AEPC Incubation and Resource facility has been initiated. The Centre will act as an Innovation hub and information dissemination center for the innovators and industry, bridging the gap between them. The Trend forecast service which will be available at the incubation center will help in getting insights and acquisition of knowledge on fashion trends for the coming seasons. The center will act as a facilitator to Indian companies which can find complete knowledge and assistance services. The AEPC Incubation and Resource center is envisioned to provide information to exporters on foreign markets, to serve as a Startup Incubation center and To facilitate creation of new knowledge through acquisition, organisation and dissemination of knowledge resources, which would include a wide variety of text and reference books, magazines, journals, samples, AV resources and documents on fashion history, costumes, merchandising, management and related disciplines. The center has been envisaged in way that it would act as a place for textile/ apparel/ fashion entrepreneurs to work, interact and accelerate their companies. Shortlisted startups will be given access to workstations, meeting rooms, event space, and a space to unwind in within the facility. Beyond this, startups will also be given the opportunity to connect with investors, mentors, corporates and be a part of training, workshops and competitions conducted by our industry partners. Shortlisted startups will be given access to workstations, meeting rooms, event space, and a space to unwind in within the facility. Beyond this, Conferences and individual meetings may be organised with country specialists on a regular basis at the center with the aim of informing companies about their target markets HKL Magu, Ashok G Rajani and Premal Udani Inaugurating Incubation Centre in terms of product, people and preferences. AEPC for its Incubation and Resource facility has signed a MoU with 3M to establish a mutual collaboration that seeks to enhance Occupational Safety of workers and another MOU with Association of NIFT Alumni to bridge the gap and enhance the relationship between Alumni of the most prestigious Fashion institute of the country and the industry. Incorporated in 1978, AEPC is the official body of apparel exporters in India that provides invaluable assistance to Indian exporters as well as importers / international buyers who choose India as their preferred sourcing destination for garments. In recent years AEPC has worked tirelessly in integrating the entire industry - starting at the grass root level of training the workforce and supplying a steady stream of man power to the industry; identifying the best countries to source machinery and other infrastructure and brokering several path breaking deals for its members and finally helping exporters to showcase their best at home fairs as well as be highly visible at international fairs the world over. With AEPC s expertise and all the advantages that India has, it makes for a truly win-win situation Indian exporters grow stronger each year in their achievements, skills and proficiency, while international buyers get superior solutions for their garment imports 30/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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32 Invoke ROO provision To stop cheap textiles imports The Central Government is undeterred by the flood of imports of textile goods with customs duties coming down substantially post GST. The countervailing duty and the special additional duty on these claims have been abolished making import s cheaper. There has been surge imports of yarn, fabric and made-ups during July October this year. Imported garments from Bangladesh whose production cost is lower than India pose a big challenge to our industry. And, Bangladesh does not have to adhere to the Rules of Origin (ROO) provision included in India s Free Trade Agreements with all countries Including Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and ASEAN. Surprisingly enough, New Delhi had offered this concession not to use Indian materials such as yarn or fabrics in Bangladesh s garment making for export to India. The occasion was the agreement between the Indian Prime Minister and his Bangladesh Counterpart way back in September The agreement provides for zero duty access to 45 textile products from Bangladesh. From purely economic reasons, India s gesture to help Bangladesh, a least developed country is practically with no return. These products cover about 90 per cent of Bangladesh s exports. Moreover, Bangladesh is extremely competitive with low wages and power cost and liberal labour laws enabling atto set up big factories, achieving economies of scale. The concessions to Bangladesh will have the potential of India replacing the European Union as the largest importer from Bangladesh over a period of time. Investment from China and other South East Asian countries will pour into Bangladesh targeting the Indian market which is not available to them duty free. Since it is the apparel industry that provides the demand pull for the whole textile value chain the entire sector is bound to be impacted by the additional imports from Bangladesh. By not including the ROO provision in the India - Bangladesh agreement, the Indian textile Industry is bound to collapse over a period with the flood of imports from Bangladesh. Nothing prevents Bangladesh from using Chinese yarn and fabric for garment production for export to India. Concessions to Bangladesh started with zero duty access for some garments to be produced out of new materials imported from India. Meanwhile the stipulation that the raw materials should be sourced from India got removed. Then came the demand from Bangladesh for zero duty access for silk products and the 45 apparel products without any quantitative limit in question. This has been accepted by the government in the agreement. The flood of imports from Bangladesh implies death knell for about 18 mn people employed in our garment industry. The government was well aware of this threat but didn t insist on use of local material content for political reasons only. How much political support will India get from Bangladesh only time can It is also imperative to impose safe-guard measures such as ROO yarn forward and fabric forward rules on countries like Bangladesh and Sri Lanka to prevent cheaper fabrics produced from countries like China routed through these countries. Rules stipulate that yarn or fabrics should be manufactured in India or Bangladesh for example. tell. The interests of the Indian textile industry have often been sacrificed in our trade agreements for the benefit of some other sectors or for geo-political objectives which may or may not be achieved. The South East Asian Free Trade Association (SAFTA) the agreement with Asian and all the bilateral agreements with Asian countries are examples of this approach. To protect the local yarn, fabric and garment producers from cheap import threat. There is an urgent need to hike the import duty on MMF yarn and fabric as well as cotton fabric by 15 per cent as recommended by the confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). It is also imperative, according to CITI to impose safe-guard measures such as ROO yarn forward and fabric forward rules on countries like Bangladesh and Sri Lanka to prevent cheaper fabrics produced from countries like China routed through these countries. Rules stipulate that yarn or fabrics should be manufactured in India or Bangladesh for example. Another area where the textile industry faces challenges is the fabric segment. It suffers from high cost in competitiveness due to exogenous factors over which a manufacturer has no control. Refunds due to the sector are yet to be resolved. The refunds arise from high incidence of blocked / embedded taxes / levies / surcharge etc of about 5.33 per cent embedded in export consignments. It is known that China gives a 17 per cent rebate for fabric exports which works out to an implied subsidy of 8 to 10 per cent. Bangladesh grants 5 per cent subsidy to its garment exporter if fabric used is made from yarn sourced locally to 32/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

33 promote the domestic value chain. Fabric producers also suffer from high transaction cost. Also interest rate in India is much higher than China. Hence fabrics should be included in the Remission of State levies (ROSL) package for a period of 3-7 years, recommends CITI. A major portion of India s population is engaged in garment manufacturing and it learns substantial foreign exchange. Therefore the government must revisit the GST provisions with regard to the garment sector to make this business viable and sustainable. Duty draw back and ROSL for the garment sector should continue at the same rate as pre-gst regime. Also the transitional rate of duty drawback and ROSL should be extended upto March 31, 2018, so that sufficient time is available for sorting out GST issues and calculating new rates. There are more than 300 regional trade agreements (RTA) in force globally. So far, India has signed only 16 RTAs which are in force and around 17 agreements are in the pipeline for which negotiations are on. Combining all partners of RTAs with which India has signed agreements shows that together these account for a 30 per cent share in global GDP and caver a significant geographical area of the world. These partners have a combined share of around 33 per cent in global imports. Therefore, India s current agreements, which are in force covers roughly one third of the globe. India s FTA with Sri Lanka is the oldest one while with Japan, it is the latest one, which was signed in August Since 2011 India has not signed any new agreement though negotiations for RTAs are on with more than 17 trading partners. Amongst them, RECP and the EU are major ones. Economies with which India has signed agreements, almost all are from high income to low income under developed countries, though a majority ones are from middle income developing countries to low-income under developed countries. This indicates that India has so far not gone to engage with Western developed markets which are considered as the net importers of durable and non durable commodities India s Exports to FTA partners RTA Partners All Commodity T&C USD Bn. All Commodity T&C Growth USD Bn. Growth in % in % World Sri Lanka Safta Nepal Bangladesh Thailand Singapore Asean South Korea Japan Malaysia APTA Mercousar Chile RTA Partners Rest of the Partners USA# EU* Britain# RCEP* Source: UN Comtrade, September 2016 (latest data) * Under Negotiation, #No initiative for FTA/PTA India s Regional Trade Agreements (RTAs) Name of Agreement Enforcement No. of Level of Integration Year Countries India Nepal Trade Treaty 1 Preferential Trade Agreement Agreement on Economic Cooperation March Preferential Trade Agreement between India and Finland Agreement on South Asia Free Jan Free Trade Agreement Trade Area SAFTA Asia Pacific Trade Agreement APTA August Preferential Trade Agreement CECA between The Republic of India December FTA and Investment Cooperation and the Republic of Singapore Comprehensive Economic Cooperation December FTA and Investment Cooperation Agreement between India and Malaysia India Chile PTA Jan Preferential Trade Agreement India Afghanistan PTA March Preferential Trade Agreement India ASEAN Agreement Jan Free Trade Agreement India Bhutan Trade Agreement July Preferential Trade Agreement India Japan CEPA August FTA and Investment Cooperation India Korea CEPA August FTA and Investment Cooperation India MERCOSUR PTA June Preferential Trade Agreement India Sri Lanka FTA Dec Free Trade Agreement Framework Agreement with Thailand Oct Free Trade Agreement Source: CITI (By S.Venkitachalam) KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/33

34 Tirupur garment makers shifting to Mysuru for fabric dyeing Tirupur garment manufacturers to cut fabric processing cost are now increasingly shifting to Mysuru, neighbouring state preferring unauthorised fabric dyeing units, which have not adopted 'Zero Liquid Discharg'e (ZLD) in villages near Mysuru in Karnataka and other Districts of the state, industry sources said. As processing fabric in and around Mysuru is about 20 per cent cheaper compared to Tirupur, sources said. Around 18 lakh kgs fabric is processed per day in Tirupur. The dyeing units that operate in Tirupur are following ZLD norms and have to spend paise per liter of water for the purpose. According to S Nagarajan, President, Dyers Association of Tirupur (DAT), the unauthorised units in Karnataka need to bother about the ZLD cost and their overheads cost would also be comparatively low. So, garment manufacturers have started preferring these units over the local ones. They are getting reports that a section of garment manufacturers, both engaged in export and domestic trade, are processing fabric with textile dyeing units in villages near Mysuru and also in few other districts in Tamil Nadu including Madurai and Virudhunagar. Most of these units are neither authorised nor follow ZLD norms. Since processing units near Mysuru do not have drying facility, garment manufacturers have to take the dyed fabric and dry them in sheds available in Tirupur. They provide processing service at low cost, which has become advantageous to garment manufacturers despite the extra transportation cost. Garment makers are trying to reduce manufacturing costs to stay in the business as the industry is Karl Mayer, a leading German warp knitting machinery manufacturer, welcomed the Indian Minister of State for Textiles, Ajay Tamta, at its Development Center in Obertshausen, recently. The government representative was accompanied by Anant Kumar Singh, Secretary Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, and by other delegates from the Ministry and Consulate General.The Indian Minister took the opportunity of a business trip to Germany to learn more about the products and the manufacture of the company, which has successful business activities in India. Karl Mayer has been working with Indian textile companies for many years. The country s textiles and clothing industry is currently on a clear growth course, with an annual plus of 12 per cent. India is an important market for us, explained Dr Helmut Preßl, Karl Mayer s CFO, when he welcomed the guests. In 2014 Karl Mayer opened its own plant in Ahmedabad and started its own value creation in the Indian market. Today, Karl Mayer, with around 80 staff members and with its longstanding, experienced regional agent A.T.E., is operating on site. For its business planning until 2023, the enterprise expects a continuing, above-average growth rate. The desired success should especially be ensured by new technologies, which do not only support improvements in productivity but also the change of the textiles industry to sustainability, the manufacturer reports. All these innovative aspects were shown to the government delegation during a presentation of machines and end-uses at already facing a crunch due to implementation of demonetisation and GST apart from competition from countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Vietnam, according to the Managing Director of a leading knitwear manufacturing company in Tirupur. As a result, some manufacturers are opting for dyeing units in Karnataka. It is unfair to compel manufacturers not to use dyeing units that provide service at lower cost. BDAT has made a representation to TNPCB's (Tamil Nadu Pollution Control Board) Principal Secretary and Chairman Md Nasimuddin seeking a direction to control unauthorised dyeing units. T R Vijayakumar, General Secretary, Tirupur Exporters' Association (TEA) said that the DAT should approach the state and Central Governments to ensure that all the dyeing units across the country follow ZLD norm, so that the competition will be healthy. Around 400 dyeing units are functioning in Tirupur city and surrounding areas. There are 18 common effluent treatment plants (CETPs) and about 100 individual effluent treatment plants (IETPs) catering to the need of the dyeing units to comply with ZLD norms as directed by the Madras High Court. Based on the instructions from TNPCB, Tirupur District administration warned garment manufacturers not to dye the fabric in the units near Mysuru and dry them in sheds in Tirupur. Otherwise, action will be taken under the Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act, 1974, a revenue official said. The Madras High Court's direction apply to all the textile and tannery dyeing units as far as the ZLD norms are concerned across the state Indian Minister of State for Textiles visits Karl Mayer Karl Mayer s headquarters. The visitors were impressed by the high output of the machines and by the top quality of the fabrics, according to the company. Some of the highlights were, among other things, solutions for sustainability such as the Low Energy Option (LEO), which ensures significant energy savings during machine operation, and the innovative sizing machine Prosize, which requires considerably less sizing agent than conventional equivalent types. Karl Mayer also demonstrated its textile developments. The innovative textiles, for example, elastic and rigid lingerie articles or fabrics for activewear and clothing, can be produced on the Karl Mayer machines in an efficient way and in wideranging designs. Learning from each other and cooperating with each other are important factors for the upcoming Indian textiles and clothing industry, this was the unanimous opinion during the final discussion, the company concludes 34/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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36 Device for testing compression garments during movement by Hohenstein To deliver increased information of greater accuracy regarding the compression of textiles for various functions, Hohenstein Group has developed the next generation of its compression testing device, HOSYcan. HOSYcan allows for accurate compression measurements during movement and measures the interaction between different materials. Combined with data from 3D scanning, simulated movement profiles provide increased accuracy for specific applications. Compression garments constitute a highgrowth technology in the sport, leisure and medical sectors, performing different functions depending on the application. Compression garments generally come with a defined level of compression. Until now, however, these values were inaccurate when measuring compression levels during movement. What s more, interaction between different materials has unpredictable effects on compression. With the further development of the HOSYcan, the Hohenstein Group is the only provider of a solution with objective measurement values as well as analysis for compression garment product development. Compression garments are so challenging that the various influences on the level of compression are often not clearly or precisely measurable, said Florian Girmond, Hohenstein Group Director Consumer Tests. HOSYcan lets us simulate movement sequences for the first time. In doing so, the actual pressure on different parts of the body can be determined even in extreme situations. The device, which can measure circumferences of up to 150 cm, can be individually adjusted and programmed. Body measurements compiled at Hohenstein using cutting-edge 3D scanner technology can be used as a base data set in customizing movement profiles. The advantages of the new HOSYcan device for manufacturers of compression materials for shaping and compression garments: With HOSYcan, the interaction between individual materials in compression garments can be tested and analyzed in a simple and cost-effective way both in static and dynamic conditions. In this way, HOSYcan delivers important performance data in relation to the desired product properties. The simulation of both dynamic and static testing scenarios, as well as a combination of the two, is achieved without difficulty, allowing testing situations very close to the practical application. The new compression testing device enables product development to be carried out in an improved, application-specific way in terms of material selection and product design. The modification of individual components can be extensively and individually tested. The whole HOSYcan package can shorten development time with innovative comparison and visualization techniques. The database software features a modern user and reporting interface, which provides diverse parameter variations, filter functions and duplicating functions, enabling more efficient order processing. The measurement results are reported in the form of statistics and graphics and then made available to the customer Bacteria getting used to make Sustainable Indigo Dyes Researchers from the University of California have developed a sustainable dyeing strategy that eliminates the need for chemical reducing agent for dye solubilization. The process combines an enzyme with lab grown E. coli bacteria, which helps stabilise an indigo precursor molecule, indoxyl, by adding it to a sugar molecule. When added to bacteria, the enzyme is turned into indican, a precursor of indigo. Indican can be stored and transformed into indigo directly on the cloth when dyeing by adding a different enzyme to the mix. Chemistry World reported that to dye white denim cloth, the researchers sprayed it with indican solution and then dipped it into a solution of the glucosidase enzyme. After removal, the indoxyl spontaneously oxidizes to indigo.the cloth isn t as deep blue as that made by the conventional indigo dyeing process, but a deeper shade could be produced by repeated rounds of dyeing. The lab is working to make the process commercially viable. John Dueber, a researcher from the University of California, said that the current process is too costly for industry production. However, he s hopeful that there ll soon be ways to drive down the cost, particular the cost of the glucosidase enzyme. This class of enzyme is already mass produced from filamentous fungi, so we are hopeful we could use such a system for producing a highly active glucosidase at low cost, Dueber said. Although the bio-produced indigo dye will likely be more expensive than the chemically synthesized indigo, Dueber said the goal is to make it competitive. The denim supply chain has been investing in sustainable indigo dyeing solutions. Wrangler is among the brands investing in Indigo Zero, a new foamdyeing technology by Indigo Mill Designs. The foam-dyeing process is said to reduce chemical usage while producing equal or even better dye quality compared to the typical dye processes. Meanwhile, Artistic Milliners partnered with DyStar to develop Crystal Clear, a new indigo dyeing process that uses an organic fixing agent that requires no salt and 70 per cent less chemicals. The hydro-free dye process leaves clean and recyclable water effluent without any salt by-products 36/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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38 OEKO-TEX introduces new regulations for 2018 In 2018, the OEKO-TEX Association endeavours to provide further targeted support on issues relating to consumer protection and sustainability throughout the textile value creation chain. The existing guidelines of the OEKO-TEX product portfolio were updated on January. The new regulations will come into effect from April 2018 for all certification systems and other services, following a three-month transition period. The OEKO-TEX Association presents the new product regulations in detail to interested companies during a webinar in January Participation is free and registration can be done at OEKO- TEX website. The updates of OEKO-TEX standards and guidelines are based on the continuous exchange of experience with industry stakeholders, cooperation with initiatives and monitoring of legal regulations. The work of OEKO-TEX expert groups thus takes into account current scientific innovations and knowledge as well as latest market developments. You can find the most important changes regarding the individual OEKO- TEX products below: DETOX TO ZERO by OEKO-TEX Thanks to the comparability of the DETOX TO ZERO MRSL with the valid MRSL for the STeP by OEKO-TEX certification, DETOX TO ZERO can be fully integrated into STeP. DETOX TO ZERO customers can convert to STeP at any time. The restructuring of the DETOX TO ZERO assessment tool and status report improves usability and clarity. ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) initiative accepts the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX as an indicator of conformity with their MRSL (harmful substance exclusion list for textile production). Upon approval, companies can have their products certified by ECO PASSPORT listed in the OEKO- TEX Buying Guide / and if they wish from now on also in the ZDHC Chemical Gateway. Bisphenol A is among the new substances to be recorded by ECO PASSPORT. Other new included substances are additional alkylphenols (pentyl- and heptylphenol) and the aromatic amine aniline. You can now list up to five products from different categories on an ECO PASSPORT certificate. Previously, an individual certificate had to be issued for every product category. Another new update: Now not only manufacturers of chemicals receive an ECO PASSPORT certificate for their products, but also retailers and importers of chemicals distributed by them can certify their chemicals under certain conditions. From 2018, chemical manufacturers are no longer obligated to disclose secret formulas. In such cases, however, more extensive analytical testing is required to obtain an ECO PASSPORT certificate. LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX Bisphenol A, the aromatic amine aniline and other alkylphenols (pentyl- and heptylphenol) are now recorded as part of the LEATHER STANDARD. MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX The minimum requirements and criteria for awarding the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX product label have been updated. Advantages of the new definition are: Improved comprehensibility and less time for label attainment. STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX The newly recorded harmful substances in the STANDARD 100 criteria catalogue are phenol, bisphenola, the aromatic amine aniline as well as the additional alkylphenols, pentyl- and heptylphenol. The OEKO-TEX Association henceforth places the substance quinoline under observation. Amended limit values also apply for short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) and ortho-phenylphenol (OPP). As of 1 April 2018, OEKO-TEX plans to integrate the testing of organic cotton products for genetically modified organisms (GMO) into STANDARD 100. STeP by OEKO-TEX The scope of STeP assessments for the survey of required company data is significantly reduced by condensing the questionnaire. The integration of DETOX TO ZERO allows now to issue the STeP certificate and the status report additional with information on DETOX TO ZERO 38/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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40 AEPC recognises best performers of the apparel industry The 22nd AEPC Export Awards , were held at a glittering ceremony in Hotel Le Meridian recently. The awards recognised the top achievers of the apparel industry across a wide range of KPI s and rewarded the best performers in total 18 categories. Present at the award ceremony were Suresh Prabhu, Minister of Commerce and Industry, Smriti Irani, Union Minister of Textiles and Information & Broadcasting, Ajay Tamta, Minister of State for Textiles, Amitabh Kant, CEO, Niti Aaayog and Chairman AEPC, Ashok Rajani along with the leading garment exporters of the country, AEPC officials and other dignitaries. The AEPC Export Awards are the most prestigious awards of Indian apparel industry, paying tribute to the success and innovative approaches of Indian apparel export companies. Extending across diverse product categories and including both experienced and start up representation, the awards are a celebration of the contributions exporters have made to the industry and, in turn, the national economy. This year, AEPC recognised the achievers from the apparel industry in total eighteen categories and for the first time, AEPC Export Awards included two new award categories viz. sustainability and good practices. Speaking on the occasion, Suresh Prabhu, Minister of Commerce and Industry said, The Commerce Ministry is working on an end to end comprehensive strategy where we are looking to provide industry, new markets through bilateral and multilateral dialogues. To support exports, a plan is underway for creating an umbrella organisation which can address the issues faced by the exporters. We are currently working on reducing the time to markets by removing the bottlenecks prevailing in the logistics. Commenting on the issues, Amitabh Kant, CEO, Niti Aaayog said, Niti Aayog accords a great importance to the textile and apparel sector because the industry plays a vital role in delivering economic development. The sector is one of the most promising sector. In the proposed India EU FTA, India may compromise for wine and push for textiles. The import tariff on man-made fibre has been a strategically wrong policy. India needs a fibre neutral GST rates and zero tolerance between payment and refund of taxes. Speaking on the occasion, Smriti Irani, Union Minister of Textiles and Information & Broadcasting said, We are soon going to come out with policy for jute and silk. Our Ministry is also working on a policy for the development of skills of the employees engaged in the sector. The Ministry is also looking at ways to value add Indian brands and designs. Hari Kapoor receiving the lifetime achievement award Orient Craft Limited awarded the Silver Trophy for Highest global exports (category above `500 Cr) Shahi Exports awarded the Gold Trophy for Highest global exports (category above `500 Cr) Shivalik Prints Limited Faridabad receiving the bronze trophy for Highest Global Exports (category above `500 Cr) 40/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

41 Pratibha Syntex awarded the Gold Trophy for Highest global exports (category above `100 Crores) Silver Spark awarded the Silver Trophy for Highest global exports (above `100 Crores) Talking about the awards, Ajay Tamta, Minister of State for Textiles said, I am very pleased that AEPC is honoring apparel exporters, who have excelled in their export performance for the year Apparel industry is vital sector of the Indian economy. It provides livelihood to a large number of skilled and semi-skilled workers in the country especially it gives employment to a large number of women workers. I would to congratulate the award winners and AEPC for their sustained efforts. Congratulating the award winners Ashok Rajani, Chairman Apparel Export Promotion Council said, AEPC Export awards are the most prestigious awards in the Indian apparel industry which amply demonstrates the excellence of Indian apparel industry. The Indian textile industry has inherent linkage with agriculture and with the culture and traditions of the country. The industry contributes to 10 per cent of manufacturing production, 2 per cent of India's GDP and upto 13 per cent of the country's export earnings. With over 45 mn employed directly, it is one ofthe largest sources of employment generation in the country. The industry has been able to respond positively to the global challenges due to the incorporation of good practices in the manufacturing processes and the awards recognises the best performers of the apparel industry. I would like to congratulate the winners for emerging as the best in their respective categories. During its interaction with the Minister, the apparel industry has asked the government to look at ways to fill the 5 per cent gap caused by the reduced rate of GST S. No. Name of the company, city Type of award Category 1 - Highest global exports (Above `500 cr.) 1 Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi Gold Trophy + Citation 2 Orient Craft Limited, New Delhi Silver Trophy + Citation 3 Shivalik Prints Ltd., Faridabad Bronze Trophy + Citation Category 2 - Highest global exports (Above `100 cr. and upto `500 cr) 1 Pratibha Syntex Ltd., M.P. Gold Trophy + Citation 2 Silver Spark Apparel Ltd., Bangaluru Silver Trophy + Citation 3 CTA Apparels Pvt. Ltd., Noida Bronze Trophy + Citation Category 3 - Highest global exports (Above `50 cr. and up to `100 cr) 1 Loyal Textile Mills Ltd., Tirupur Gold Trophy + Citation 2 Million Exporter Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi Silver Trophy + Citation 3 Jyoti Apparels, New Delhi Bronze Trophy + Citation Category 4 - Highest global exports (Above `25 cr. and upto `50 cr) 1 Mallcom India Ltd., Kolkata Gold Trophy + Citation 2 Century Apparels Pvt. Ltd., Tirupur Silver Trophy + Citation 3 Magsons Exports, New Delhi Bronze Trophy + Citation Category 5 - Highest global exports (From `1 cr to `25 cr) 1 Toram, Tirupur Gold Trophy + Citation 2 Peacock Apparels Pvt. Ltd., Madurai Silver Trophy + Citation 3 R B Knit Exports (Export Wing), Ludhiana Bronze Trophy + Citation Category 6 - Highest exports in knitted garments (Above `100 cr) 1 Eastman Exports, Tirupur Citation Category- 7 - Highest exports in knitted garments (Above `50 crores and upto 100 cr) 1 Danavarshini Exports (P) Ltd., Tirupur Citation Category 9 - Highest Exports in Woolen Garments Silver Spark Apparel Ltd., Bangaluru Citation Category 15 - Highest exports to ASEAN countries ( ) 1 Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi Citation Category 16 - Highest Exports to Japan ( ) 1 LodhaImpex, Jaipur Citation Category 17 - Award for Environmental Sustainability ( ) 1 Pratibha Syntex Ltd., M.P. Citation Category 18 - Award for good work place practices 1 Shahi Export House Pvt. Ltd. Citation Life Time Achievement Award Hari Kapoor KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/41

42 BRÜCKNER sets the course for the future! Due to the strong demand for BRÜCKNER lines in the last years, an enlargement of the production capacity was indispensable for the German technology supplier. There were no possibilities for expansion at the previous production site in Tittmoning (Bavaria), so that the company came to the decision to build a completely new site near Tittmoning, at a distance of a few kilometers from the previous site. The company management never even thought of moving the production abroad since by doing so the company would lose invaluable employees and thus decades of experience and knowhow. The ground breaking in September 2016 was followed by a one-year construction period. In November 2017 BRÜCKNER began step by step to move the production to the new production site. In spring 2018 the moving will be terminated.? The new plant comprises sq. mtr. of construction hall area and is provided with the latest production technology. Since this is a completely new building, all optimization potentials regarding material flow and work place design could be used. The increasing sizes and weights of the machinery components were considered in the selection of the height of the hall and the type of the installed crane systems. Thus, crane systems for the lifting of weights up to 20 tonne and crane hooks in a height of 12 mtr. are available for the final assembly.? The increasing sales success during the last years and the systematic expansion of BRÜCKNER's nonwovens sector had a significant influence on the decision to build this new site. In 2017, BRÜCKNER sold in the TECHNO-LINE NONWOVENS product line several lines for the production of geo-nonwovens, light nonwovens consolidated with bonding agents for the medical sector, voluminous thermo-fusioned filler nonwovens for the furniture industry and thermo-fusion ovens for ADL, topsheet and backsheet for the hygienics industry. Particularly in the field of hygienic nonwovens, a trend shows towards products of a better quality with a smoother hand and of more uniform texture. With the development of a new generation of air-through oven, BRÜCKNER created the preconditions to provide customers all over the world with the technology to produce these high quality end products. The successful sales of the new oven generation SUPRA-FLOW BA to renowned nonwovens producers all over the world confirms once again the innovation power of BRÜCKNER. Particular attention was given to a gentle transport of the not yet bonded web, a particularly uniform air flow through the web as well as a constant temperature distribution across the complete working width.? Important findings from very different thermal treatment systems of related BRÜCKNER product lines could be integrated into the construction design. The new oven type is characterised among other advantages by the following constructive features: Gentle fabric transport Minimum thermal energy required High flow uniformity Constant temperature distribution across the working width Best possible accessibility of the oven chambers Easy to maintain Flow-optimized air circulation Use of belts with special coating with good detaching characteristics Working widths of up to 4200 mm in the standard design Production speeds up to 200 m/min The continuously increasing number of inquiries for this new type of oven shows that the extensive development efforts were definitely justified and that the new belt oven corresponds absolutely to the market requirements. BRÜCKNER's nonwovens experts will with great pleasure present in a personal meeting the benefits of the SUPRA-FLOW BA air-through oven in detail to interested customers Missed any previous issues? Visit /KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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50 Kornit Digital launches new HD printing technology for the Avalanche series Kornit Digital, a global market leader in digital textile printing innovation, has announced the introduction of a new HD printing technology for its Avalanche platform of direct-togarment printing systems. The Avalanche HD6, the successor of the Avalanche Hexa, is equipped with Kornit s HD print engine and NeoPigment TM Rapid ink, which leads to significant reductions in ink consumption and therefore cost per print in comparison to the company s existing Avalanche systems. The HD6 will reduce the ink consumption by up to 30 per cent compared to the current R- Series version and up to 46 per cent compared to the previous Non R-Series versions of the Avalanche Hexa. In addition, Kornit is launching an HD version of the Avalanche 1000 which will be called Avalanche HDK. The company also announced that existing Kornit customers now have an upgrade path for their Avalanche Hexa and Avalanche 1000 systems. The new systems are the result of Kornit s experience gained from 15 years of direct-to-garment printing innovation and a very large installed base of systems. The new cost per print levels make the new HD systems an attractive choice for screen printers for print runs between one and 500 copies. The new systems are running with 4l bulk ink containers of Kornit sneopigment TM Rapid ink. This ink, which has been specifically developed for Kornit s HD technology, offers an improved gamut for spot and brand colour matching, increased opacity and saturation of the white ink, as well as improved hand feel an important requirement by screen printers. The print quality is further enhanced by ColorGATE s Professional RIP solution, adding advanced color management and screening capabilities, improved white base creation and predefined colour libraries for ultimate colour matching. Both the HD print engine and the NeoPigment Rapid ink are used in Kornit s Vulcan system and have been field proven in a number of installations over the past year. Omer Kulka, Kornit Digital s Vice President of Marketing and Product Strategy, comments, Today s market trends put traditional screen printing service providers under pressure given increased demand for short run production with frequent inventory cycles, coupled with the online and direct-to-customer business models, the demand for personalized garments, and demand for shorter delivery times. Added to these trends is the current retail meltdown which particularly impacts fashion and apparel outlets. Kornit s HD technology, based on our 15 years of digital textile printing experience, provides an excellent and profitable alternative for print runs of one to 500 pieces with quick turnaround times. Kornit s Avalanche platform represents the high productivity segment of Kornit s industrial direct-to-garment printing Avalanche HD6 and Avalanche HDK give a competitive edge to garment decorators with drastically reduced cost per print, high-definition image quality, improved hand feel and new software for advanced file preparation capabilities. product family, providing customers with a multitude of system options for different application requirements. The Kornit Avalanche HD6 includes six color channels (CMYK, Red, Green) plus white, for a wider gamut and improved spot colour matching. Users can easily reproduce the true colours of licensed sports teams and accurately match corporate logos with fiery reds, warm yellows, deep blues and greens, vivid purples and many more. Designed for the mass production of garments, Kornit s Avalanche HD6 includes a patented architecture of dual bridge and dual pallet, designed to achieve optimal performance in an industrial production environment, and is a very robust platform designed for heavy duty use. The system operates at high speeds and provides excellent print quality. The Avalanche HD6 is available for delivery during the first quarter of 2018 to be followed by the Avalanche HDK during the second quarter. Previous versions of the Avalanche Hexa and Avalanche 1000, with or without ink recirculation technology, are field upgradeable to the new HD versions and that way can benefit from the advantages of the NeoPigment TM Rapid technology. Kornit s state of the art NeoPigment meets the highest environmental regulations, including Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and GOTS V5 pre-approval. Suitable for printing on multiple fabric types, its versatility is unmatched. NeoPigment prints have an excellent hand feel, a wide gamut of bright and intense colors, as well as long-term durability and wash-fastness 50/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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52 ZDHC scouring and one bath bleaching technology An absolute innovation in organic chemistry ZDHC scouring, is a philosophy of chemical research and engineering that encourages to have a processes that minimize the use and generation of hazardous substances in the effluent, and minimize the usage of the finite resources water and energy. The research is focused on minimizing the Hazard and improving the effluent quality, maximize the efficiency of process, improving the fabric finish attributes and high strength retention, dye yield in case of solid dyeing and improving whiteness in one bath bleach, reducing the process time etc. ZDHC scouring is an answer to all the bitter pills associated with conventional scouring and enzymatic scouring. ZDHC scouring by Aeltex PW 106 ZDHC scouring is an absolute innovation in organic chemistry, which address the pit falls of conventional scouring method Alkali peroxide treatment and the recent innovation enzymatic scouring. A well balanced design, which makes the fabric suitable for one bath bleaching and providing all the attributes for dyeing with very minimal impact on environment, substantial saving in water consumption, energy and process time with almost 2.5 per cent gain on fabric weight, thus dye yield and tensile strength. Non enzymatic, non-surfactant and non-inorganic alkali based product design gives highly consistent results, highly absorbent fabric and very cost effective. Increased productivity and low effluent treatment cost are other advantages. In order to make it more explicatory, will detail all the process methods and the bitter pills associated with it which invokes an alternative product, safe, economical and give consistent results retaining all fibre attributes. Important features of Aeltex PW 106 One shot organic scouring agent, which can potentially eliminate completely caustic soda usage in the process and can be done scouring for all type of shades and one bath full bleach white processing. It is a Nonsurfactant based product, which impart high wettability and stabilize peroxide up to 8 per cent dosage for the full bleach. Can completely obliterate the usage of lubricating and de-mineralizing agent even for high stretch fabric. Since only single product is involved in the process easy for dosage and highly consistent results, with whiteness index ranging 68 ( lycra fab) to 74. Benefits Highly cost effective and energy saving, and reduces almost three rinses. Since caustic soda is not an easily risible alkali, it demand many rinse and more quantity of mineral acid for core alkali neutralization. Drastic reduction of water consumption and time of process are resultant gains. It reduces the usage of mineral acid used for neutralization and reduction of TDS more than 70 per cent. Also improve fabric appearance, softness and wicking abilities. Efficiency of effluent treatment improves due to nonsurfactant, foaming related issues and cost reduction due to less treatment chemical cost. This all results in highly economical and most efficient processing to get consistent results. Comparison with Alkali Peroxide scouring Strength loss Conventional Alkali peroxide scouring uses aqueous solution of NaOH to remove hydrophobic components from the primary wall (pectin, protein and organic acids) and the cuticle (wax and fats). Due to severe process conditions it also attack the secondary cell wall, which is of almost pure cellulose and it causes damage and affects the fibre strength. Also there is more hairiness, which affect the appearance of fabric. In ZDHC scouring (Aeltex pw 106) works on emulsification methods, and process conditions are mild, which help the fabric to retain its tensile properties much affected. Dye loss During caustic peroxide scouring process the intra and inter molecular hydrogen bridges of the cellulose are calved due the extreme process condition, and the polar group of the polysaccharides and solvated. Most significantly it damages the actual structure of the cotton fibre and loses potential dye adsorption sites. This reduces the dye yield and results significant amount of dye loss. The mild process condition attributed by Aeltex pw 106 potentially increases the dye yield comparing to conventional alkali - peroxide scouring. Appearance and tensile properties The aggressive scouring treatment conditions frequently damage the fibre. Due to complete removal of the outer pectin 52/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

53 coating of the cotton fibre, the surface profile becomes rough. This affects considerably friction properties of yarn. This also leads to increase in the amount of fly generation. Also there is a considerable strength loss due to oxy-cellulose formation while carrying out peroxide bleaching in alkaline condition. This is one of the most significant reason to get away from this severe processing method and adopting ZDHC scoring (Aeltex pw 106) as a perfect alternative. Energy and time concern Since the NaOH used in the conventional scouring is not an easily risible Alkali, several rinsing steps are practiced, which increase the demand of water, time and energy. This process is carried at high ph range (13-14) core alkali neutralization demands high quantity mineral acid (Acetic acid) which will be an environmental and cost concern too. Due to non-caustic process ZDHC scouring demands only a single rinse and saves significant amount of water, time and energy. Since the process is carried out at mild ph conditions, the amount of acid need for neutralization is too low and less cost and environmental impacts. Effluent concern A lot of harsh chemicals used in traditional scouring process, which are very much responsible to increase the amount BOD, COD, TDS in the effluent water. Almost 50 per cent total BOD, 40 per cent of the total COD and per cent of the total pollution load created by the textile processing & dyeing is contributed by Caustic Soda ( NaOH). The auxiliaries used in the process - wetting agent, lubricating agent, de- mineralizing agent, peroxide stabilizer etc are having significant role in effluent water pollution. Surfactant related issues in effluent water treatment are well explicated above. Apart from these there is a risk of dangerous chemicals handling and plastic containers used for the auxiliaries. In ZDHC scouring with Aeltex pw 106, there is no other chemical needed except peroxide and saves inventory, storage, effluent water quality and associated treatment cot. Reduce the usage of plastic containers and chemical quantity required for the water treatment. Comparison with Enzymatic scouring and ZDHC scouring with Aeltex PW 106 a) In the case of enzymatic scouring, the access to the pectic substance in the cotton plays a major role in deciding the efficiency of the process whereas in this ZDHC scouring method apart from the pectin it can remove well other impurities such as trash, ash, hemi cellulose etc. b) In enzymatic scouring the partial removal of hydrophobic impurities could vary process to process and could result a variation of moisture content and wettability. Aeltex PW 106 helps the complete removal of hydrophobic impurities, which inhibit the access to water and thus shows very consistent results in moisture regain and wettability process to process. c) The enzymes are not capable of removing many other impurities function as an impediment in dyeing process. This will result in many properties like fineness, elongation and moisture control of the fibre. Aeltex pw 106, potentially remove all the unnecessary materials and make the fibre attributes suitable for even level dyeing by retaining all qualities. Due to non-caustic process ZDHC scouring demands only a single rinse, and saves significant amount of water, time and energy. Since the process is carried out at mild ph conditions, the amount of acid need for neutralization is too low, and less cost and environmental impacts. d) The inability to remove the fats and waxes demand the usage of surfactant based emulsifier, wetting agent and sequestering agent. The pollution associated with surfactant still persist, and the potential issues associated with plastic packaging, inventory and storage. So the enzymatic scouring will not fall under ZDHC norms. With Aeltex pw 106, there is no need of any other auxiliary and the product is powder packed in recycled paper bags. No threat related to plastic cans and completely ZDHC process. e) The usage of GMO enzymes and the potential threat associated with Genetically Modification of Microbes and mimicking with environment still persists in enzymatic scouring. f) The enzyme activity can be impaired by the auxiliaries used in the bath to enhance the scouring process like ph, electrolytes, oxidizing agents etc, makes it difficult to have consistent results. Metal ions in the water also can be an impediment in enzyme performance. This will make enzymatic process an un-preferred choice. g) Mostly enzymatic scouring fails to remove seed-coat fragments more adequately, which makes it confined in the processing of only highly combed yarns and fabrics. Not suitable for carded low cost fabric. Aeltex pw 106 is suitable for all type of yarn and fabrics. It can effectively remove all kind of impurities, which can inhibit dyeing. The degree of whiteness index in enzymatic scouring is too low and can only suitable for the dyeing of darker shades. h) ZDHC scouring (Aeltex PW 106) is suitable for all shades, one bath scouring and bleach with high whiteness index (68 74) and type of cellulosic yarn, fabrics and blends. All type of cotton, blended, viscose, modal, polynosic, linen, bamboo, bamboo blended with viscose etc. Mild process condition makes it suitable for all low wet strength yarns and fabrics. An absolute innovation to achieve complete sustainability and ZDHC in yarn / fabric bleaching and dyeing. It covers all pit falls in conventional alkali peroxide scouring and enzymatic scouring KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/53

54 Eurojersey launches new G+ textile collection Directa Plus, a producer and supplier of graphene-based products for use in consumer and industrial markets, has announced the launch of two new textile collections containing the company s Graphene Plus (G+) by Eurojersey, a producer of high quality warp-knit technical fabrics under its Sensitive Fabrics brand, and Colmar. Both collections were unveiled at ISPO 2018, the sport and sportswear international trade fair held in Munich. Eurojersey has launched its first range of G+ enhanced textiles to be marketed under its leading Sensitive Fabrics brand. The collection of warp-knit technical fabrics is designed for high performance targeting the sportswear, athleisure and underwear sectors, and was presented at ISPO to key customers of Eurojersey. Directa Plus and Eurojersey have been collaborating over the last year to conduct joint R&D to develop the product samples and a selection of Sensitive Fabrics enhanced by G+ will be introduced to the fashion industry at the Première Vision Paris conference and exhibition on February. 54/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 The launch of the Ski Winter 2018/19 collection marks Colmar s third winter range with Directa Plus. Colmar and Eurojersey are two partners with which we have developed deep, strong relationships, based on our shared passion for innovation and sustainability. It is therefore extremely pleasing to see both companies launch new collections incorporating Graphene Plus, said Giulio Cesareo, CEO of Directa Plus. The considerable interest we received at ISPO for our graphene-based products is testament to the highperformance qualities that they bring to garments, which are enjoyed by professionals and sports enthusiasts Mahlo and Monfongs hold symposium in China AGermany-based machinery manufac turer Mahlo and Chinese Monforts Fong s Textile Machinery (Monfongs) organised an expert meeting for textiles producers, held in Shantou City, on the Eastern coast of Guangdong, China, recently. The event welcomed around 200 partners and customers, mainly from the province. Both companies wanted to broaden the participants mostly service technicians understanding of how to achieve the best possible results with their machines, whether it is with maintenance or additional equipment. Members of Monfongs greeted the audience and gave lectures on the importance of service and maintenance. The afternoon session, Mahlo took the stage. Following the welcoming address by Mahlo s Sales Director Thomas Höpfl and Joseph Tsai of Mahlo s sales and service agent Shanghai Kuantex, Jimmy Rong from Kuantex introduced the process control system Famacont PMC-15 that determines the thread density by means of a non-contacting, optoelectronic or imaging process. The instrument is of great value for Guangdong s vast knitting industry, the company explained. Knitwear is sold by weight, so a consistent product is highly important. In the production process, however, knitted goods are under substantial mechanical influences that entail stretching and by that result in a reduced basis weight. The PMC sensor at the inlet measures the course density and compares it to a pre-set specification. Corresponding to that, the computer sends a signal to the overfeed roller, which regulates the fabric in-feed of the stenter machine. This way, the elongation of the fabric is compensated at the best possible rate. Another sensor at the outlet measures and visualises the final result. Jimmy Rong explained to the audience, how they can get a better performance out of their existing machinery by installing a Mahlo Famacont PMC and hence increase the product quality and customer alike. We look forward to expanding our existing relationships and establishing new partnerships with global companies as we continue to enhance our position in the textiles market. The company says it is receiving increasing interest in G+ from the textiles industry due to its ability to sustainably produce a highly-performant fabric that is independently certified as non-toxic, non-cytotoxic and hypoallergenic for human skin. Thanks to its unique, patented process, Directa Plus is able to manufacture its graphene-based products in a sufficient quantity, at a consistent quality and at a commercial price point to satisfy its customers requirements, the manufacturer explains. The inclusion of G+ in textiles is said to provide a technologically-advanced fabric with unique thermal features: allowing a homogeneous distribution of the heat produced by the human body in cold weather and a heat dispersion effect in hot weather. G+ also provides the fabric with a bacteriostatic effect that enhances hygiene and anti-odour features, which is particularly relevant for sportswear and garments that are in contact with the body satisfaction. Similar is the outcome when using a Mahloweft straightening machine, the company added. In the course of the day it became clear how experienced Mahlo s local service technicians are with the devices, said Thomas Höpfl. They can maintain the machines trustworthy and attend to many problems, which is a big advantage for our clients. Because shorter downtime means minimum production loss and higher profits in the end, he commented. The symposium was closed by an evening dinner with participants and business partners

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66 Cifra presents new collection with Evo by Fulgar Italian warp knit seamless (WKS) specialist Cifra presented at ISPO its innovative capsule collection that boasts technological features designed to meet the needs of the sports world, which is increasingly oriented towards ethical products with a low environmental impact that can offer high-level performance. The line of clothing, produced with WKS technology, is made with the bio-based yarn Evo by Fulgar, which is said to guarantee maximum comfort and unique performance, and the unique qualities of Lycra elastanefibre. Yarns are created through a special process which, through an exclusive knitted structure, enables the production of seamless garments which do not come apart in the event of piercing or tearing, the manufacturer explains. It is a great opportunity for us to see the full potential of our Evo yarn with the best, exclusive technology by Cifra, a company that like us is distinguished by its tradition and innovation, with which we have been collaborating for 10 years, commented Alan Garosi, Marketing Manager of Fulgar. Collaboration Cifra s warp knitting seamless (WKS) technology allows the creation of garments, which have no uncomfortable seams where the garment comes in contact with the skin both on upper body and legs. It also allows a high reduction of waste, compared to the tradition production of cut-and-sew garments. The combination with the bio-based yarn Evo by Fulgar is said to enhance its value in terms of sustainability, making it possible to produce high-performance, green and fully traceable garments. Innovation for us is a constant commitment. Through continual investment in research, we have fine-tuned our WKS technology, which is completed by the selection of outstanding supply chain partners such as Fulgar, which has always guaranteed us high standards with cutting-edge technological solutions, such as Evo, commented Cesare Citterio, CEO of Cifra. WKS technology WKS is innovative technology, incorporating the high productivity of the weave and the flexibility of the flat mesh shape. It is suited to the production of high-performance technical clothing and is ideal for sportswear since it supports muscles and allows the body to breathe. This technology can produce infinite design possibilities: the piezo-jacquard system enables the creation of a great variety of stitches, Cifra says. One advantage is that the yarn does not run if cut (because every yarn in the warp creates knots, while in the weft the yarns are inlaid one above the other). Another benefit is that the edges can be left unfinished, making the fabric more comfortable and giving a second skin feeling. In addition, the finished fabric can be machine washed with a lower risk of shrinkage. Evo by Fulgar An innovative bio-based yarn developed after years of research and study of the highest engineering standards, Evo by Fulgar is made from castor oil a not for food plant that grows spontaneously, Fulgar explains. It is a renewable resource that does not require high amounts of water and does not use up arable land that can be used for food uses. According to the manufacturer, suitable for any textile application and ideal for the sportswear, Evo by Fulgar is ultra-light, super stretch and extremely breathable, dries quickly and does not need ironing, has thermal properties and natural bacteriostatic. This whole range of distinctive values and benefits aims to ensure maximum comfort and performance, while retaining an intense eco-awareness 66/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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68 Wildest Innovations in Clothing Technology in 2017 As this year winds down we ve recapped its highlights to bring you the best of 2017 in fashion, sneakers and more. Innovation is many a funny thing. On the one hand, progress is subjective: one person s excitement about the future is another s Buzzword Bingo. On the other, truly substantial developments GORE-TEX, Flyknit, 3-D printing need no approval to reshape the world. While that same subjectivity may let every athleisure brand tout their black nylon leggings as humanity s next quantum leap, beneath all the noise, 2017 was a year of bold strides in apparel innovation. By and large, the same techno-optimism that deifies Elon Musk has infected the world of fashion and design. Society now expects more of even the most basic garments: stretch, moisture control, and even temperature regulation are becoming table stakes for everything outside of heritage and homage. Supreme can sell hundreds of cotton hoodies; Uniqlo will sell thousands of HEATTECH everything. This widespread demand (coupled with near-zero interest rates) has led to an uptick in athleisure startups, the surest sign of an industry on the rise. Small, agile fabric innovators may not have the billion-dollar R&D budgets that power Nike and adidas, but their lack of scale is often an advantage. Fewer layers of management means a greater ability to take risks. More startups only amplifies the total effect. Given the scope of challenges facing today s fashion industry changing weather patterns, changing expectations of wearers, and a global shift towards urbanization an appetite for audacity may just be the best solution. That s not to say only startups can take risks for every Vollebak, there s an adidas. But within companies large and small, these same gears are turning. And engaged they are. Despite this year s lack of a Flyknitlevel paradigm shift (sorry, Flyleather), 2017 was a bellwether year for materials science in fashion. Emerging technologies came online at scale. Beloved standards got the modernizing they deserved. In the background, that same techno-optimism that started those gears turning powered an increasing pace of innovation behind the scenes. From shoes made of ocean plastic to the Google x Levi s Project Jacquard, join us for a look back on this year s clothing technology innovations that will shape our future: The North Face Launches the Apex Flex GTX, the World s First Softshell Rain Jacket stylish enough for the streets, cementing garments like the Mountain Parka and Nuptse Jacket as fixtures of the West s winter sidewalks. Ask a mid-blizzard sneaker line up about outerwear choice, and The North Face is a likely winner of the popular vote. For close to 50 years, the California-based outdoors brand has produced weatherproof apparel both designed for extreme sports and This March, the brand introduced the Apex Flex GTX, a sub- $200 zip-up billed as the world s first softshell rain jacket. While most rain jackets are made of stiff, crinkly, laminated nylon ( hardshell, in industry speak), the Apex Flex, by contrast, is made of smoother, stretchier polyester knit. That plush face fabric is then laminated to a waterproof GORE-TEX membrane before it s finally treated with a Duable Water Repellant coating, providing the breathable (read: porous) knitted polyester jacket with a full new suite of ways to keep out the rain. While the Apex Flex GTX isn t the first-ever softshell with GORE-TEX, it is the industry s first GORE softshell designed specifically for the rain, making the Apex Flex a competitive (read: actually comfortable against bare skin) alternative to the typical GORE-TEX coat. 68/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

69 adidas Unveils the Futurecraft 4D In 2012, Nike s knit running shoe beat its adidas equivalent to market by a mere months, using that summer s London Olympic Games as a springboard to put Flyknit in front of the planet. Four years later, the Three Stripes fired back with an innovation of its own: the Futurecraft 3D Winners Shoe, an Olympic edition of the mysterious (and theoretically perfectly customizable) 3Dprinted runner first seen back in The good news? The space-age shoe grabbed eyeballs around the world. The bad news? Only Olympians could get them. Enter 4D. Unveiled in April, this Futurecraft sneaker (sequentially dubbed Futurecraft 4D ) was the brand s first 3D-printed shoe made at scale. Using Digital Light Synthesis technology think Han Solo in carbonite, but with a UV light baking resin into patterns the Futurecraft 4D s bespoke outsoles could be made at higher volume than traditional incremental printing. adidas, in partnership with California-based startup Carbon, produced 500 Futurecraft 4D s for April s drop. That s still a low-percentage cop, sure, but compared to being one of the three best athletes in the world, the chances of owning a custom 3D-printed runner are increasing by the day. The adidas x Parley Sneaker Collection Hits Global Scale For World Oceans Day 2016, adidas and Parley unveiled an ecoinnovation worth celebrating: The world s first sneaker made from recycled ocean plastic. While the original launch would include just 50 pairs, just two other adidas x Parley shoes (an Ultra Boost and an Ultra Boost Uncaged) would drop before the New Year s Ball. Unfortunately, the largest drop of all three would include just 7,000 pairs worldwide a distant leap from the numbers needed to hit adidas CEO Eric Leitdke s goal of producing 1,000,000 recycled plastic pairs before the end of If adidas and Parley were to meet their goal, they d need a tidal wave of releases before this time next year. Then in came the tide. With nearly two months left in the year, adidas x Parley fabrics have hit nearly every part of the Three Stripes lineup, sending the duo s recycling efforts to a global scale. As of November 2017, Parley plastics have adorned the Ultra Boost 3.0, Ultra Boost Uncaged, Ultra Boost X, EQT Support, and even the Prime series of high-performance running shoes, racing spikes included. For the ultimate co-sign: Parley fabrics were a focal point of March s adidas x Stella McCartney collab, the British fashion designer s latest with the brand. While some may have scoffed with original run of 50, Parley s ride is rising. Cool shoes and recycling efforts funded at scale with sneakers as the end result? Wavy, indeed. Google x Levi s Commuter Jacquard Jacket Redefines Wearable Tech Move over, Google Glass: apparel-based wearables are here at last. First announced in May 2016, the Google x Levi s Project Jacquard jacket officially released this September. In short, the jacket a modern successor to 2000 s Philips x Levi s ICD+ is a standard Levi s denim trucker built to sync with a smartphone. Once a phone is connected, a system of smart fibres woven throughout the jacket (in tandem with a wireless tag remote) allow users to control smartphone functions through gesture controls, including just tapping on the jacket s wrists to pause music or set navigation. If a nuclear apocalypse seems too heavy a toll for your own Pip- Boy-style wrist computer, the Google x Levi s Jacquard Commuter is now available for just $350. At the very least, you ll never forget your jacket anywhere again. KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/69

70 DYNE Shows Stitch-Free Collection at New York Fashion Week Christopher Bevans luxury sportswear label DYNE has won acclaim for its use of NFC technology in garments, but for its SS18 collection (shown this July in New York), DYNE debuted fabric tech of a whole different kind. From sweatpants to anoraks, the entire collection of luxe performance wear was constructed without a single stitch. While no stitches may at first seem counter-intuitive, from a design perspective, seams are traditionally the weakest point of any garment. DYNE worked with Massachusetts-based Bemis Associates Inc. to incorporate Sewfree technology throughout the collection, opting to bond fabrics with glue rather than thread. The result: stronger, more comfortable garments for DYNE, and a powerful proof of concept for designers across the industry. Going stitchfree means less friction, less weight, and less risk of the elements seeping in. Now, with a Fashion Week co-sign, glue construction might just stick. Vollebak Debuts the Waterproof, Luminescent Solar-Charged Jacket Glow in the dark is nothing new. Reflective jackets are nothing new. But a waterproof jacket that glows like an alien sun after a few hours of exposure and weighs just 230 grams? That s where it gets cool. Vollebak s Solar-charged Jacket is a waterproof shell whose glow charges when exposed to any light source, creating a vibrant green glow for up to 12 hours. Worn for a day on the trail, the Solar-charged jacket provides a potent safety marker in even the darkest forest. For cyclists and mountaineers, Vollebak s innovative jacket has tremendous potential as a replacement for traditional reflective vests and battery lights. For the rest of us, it s a 3M flex pic on steroids. Light the way. NikeLab Embarks on Advanced Apparel Exploration 1.0 This September, NikeLab launched Advanced Apparel Exploration, a data-driven sportswear collection consisting of reworked staple pieces. While military-inspired vests and jackets stole the show, AAE s most innovative garment may have also been its most humble: the Short Sleeve Top. The Short Sleeve Top (actual Nike product name) is made from a single strand of a single material, guided through a single seamless motion-led knit pattern. The pattern, synthesized by a team of apparel designers, Flyknit engineers, and computer scientists, was distilled from the analysis of years of internal studies on how shirts cling to, move with, and channel airflow around the body. The result may be a short-sleeve crewneck, but under the hood, nothing is the same. Is the AAE 1.0 tee unnecessary in the most puritanical sense of the word? Absolutely. But the fact that Nike dared to reinvent through data maximization is worth recognizing. This same process, applied to other wardrobe staples often frozen in time by conventional wisdom, could result in some truly remarkable garments fitting of our data-driven century. 70/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

71 ECCO Debuts Dyneema-bonded Leather Vollebak Unleashes The Kevlar-Infused 100-Year Hoodie ECCO Leather made headlines with multiple significant projects this year, but while translucent calfskin is primarily a leap for aesthetics, the tannery s creation of the first leather bonded with Dyneema (a compound widely considered to be the world s strongest fibre) has the potential for a paradigm shift within leather goods. While no consumer products have hit shelves yet, the company reports that a prototype Dyneema leather duffel provides the same structural strength as an 11-lb weekend bag while wearing a mere 200 grams. Considering Dyneema is already used for ballistic armor, towing rope, and crashproof motorcycle apparel, it may just be a matter of time before your double-zip moto could actually save your life if you took it on the bike. Started by brothers Nick and Steve Tidball, UK-based technical brand Vollebak, has, over just 18 months of life, produced garments so flat-out mad that their mere existence seems like a pub brag jolted to life. For example: the 100-Year Hoodie. First unveiled in late June just six days after John Elliot s first Paris show, Vollebak s sweatshirt was a hoodie of a different breed. Instead of a sumptuous cotton fleece, the 100-Year Hoodie is made of 100 per cent Kevlar. That s right that Kevlar. DuPont s miracle fabric, made famous for its use in body armor, is here fashioned into the shape of an archetypal hoodie, creating a pullover garment that can survive pretty much anything. Just watch this video of its creators trying to kill one. Not saying a standard cotton sweatshirt can t survive blowtorches and rock drags, but when your unique take on a wardrobe staple starts to pill after a few weeks of wear, it s worth remembering what else is out there. KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/71

72 Heiq launches world s first 100 per cent bio-based odor control technology The Swiss textile innovator HeiQ launches HeiQ Fresh FFL (Fresh For Long), a 100 per cent bio-based odor control technology. The product targets the sportswear and intimate segment, with application especially suitable for seamless garments made of synthetics that are prone to permastink. Visitors at ISPO Munich got a first sniff of the technology at HeiQ s booth held recently. The funky founding story keeps the Swiss high-tech company busy in adding more solutions to its broad odor control product range. Apart from the founding silver product that is today used worldwide in more than 500 mn garments by over 100 major active wear brands, and the recently launched volatile odor source sequestering technologies HeiQ Fresh NKU and HeiQ Fresh AGOS, HeiQ continues to redefine freshness for textile by introducing the world s first bio-based, non-antimicrobial, nonsilver-based textile odor control technology HeiQ Fresh FFL, which is based on a biopolymer derived from 100 per cent renewable source. This wash-resistant, biodegradable textile finishing stops bad smell before it emerges on textile. HeiQ Fresh FFL is a non-antimicrobial alternative to traditional odor control in textiles. This sustainable, fully biomass-derived Amino-Sugar-Polymer functions by binding proteins and other sweat components that can cause odor. The HeiQ Fresh FFL biopolymer supports ready removal of these sweat components during home laundering. As a non-antimicrobial solution to odor control the regulatory obligations normally associated with biocides are of no relevance when applying HeiQ Fresh FFL on garments and other textile products. Odor control efficacy is maximized with the correct technologyfibre match, as well as the right application of the technology in the textile finishing process. While most odor-control textile finishing target polyester, the application is often limited to padding, which is not utilized for textiles that seamless garments are made of. HeiQ Fresh FFL can be used on both cellulosic and synthetic fibres. The flexibility of application of HeiQ Fresh FFL can be done through either exhaust or padding means that brands can apply it freely on different fibre and product design, including seamless garments, says Ralf Mundinger, HeiQ s Head of Technology Application, we see this as a clear advantage for our brand partners in the sportswear and intimate segment. Participants in a multi-day wear trial confirmed that the odor control efficacy of HeiQ Fresh FFL is much better than the best silver antimicrobial textile finishing on the market (control). HeiQ Fresh FFL was also tested under the newly developed HeiQ 72-hour Tennis Bag challenge test protocol, in which HeiQ Fresh FFL-treated, control and untreated fabrics infused with artificial sweat are placed into a red Wilson Federer DNA tennis bag in a climate chamber at 30 C (86 C) and 40 C (104 F), followed by an olfactometric evaluation. In addition to the many ISO laboratory standard tests offered, HeiQ wanted to have a hard hitting test and suggests olfactometric evaluation, encouraging brands to listen to your own nose, to complement standard laboratory tests in predicting the physiological experience of the human nose, and give a comprehensive evaluation on the real life odor control efficacy of the technology. HeiQ welcomed all visitors to learn more about the product, not only by asking and listening, but actually using their own noses in sniffing the differences between HeiQ Fresh FFL and other odor control finishing. HeiQ Fresh FFL is also ready for any wear trial applications shall anyone wish to prove the odor control performance in the field 72/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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74 YiwuTex 2018 will promote smart and sustainable textile development The China Yiwu International Exhibition on Textile Machinery (also known as YiwuTex) has been successfully held for 18 editions and accumulated rich network resources, large customer base and high market value. The 2018 edition will be renamed as "China Yiwu International Textile Fair" and held at Yiwu International Expo Centre (Hall East 1 and 2) from May The show will be jointly organised by Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd., Yiwu China Commodity City Exhibition Co., Ltd. and Jinhua Printing Industrial Association to present 4 thematic zones catering to knitting, garment & printing industries, including Exhibition on Knitting & Hosiery Machinery, Exhibition on Sewing & Automatic Garment Machinery, Textile Printing Industry Fair, and International Textile Expo. A comprehensive display of the world's leading textile machinery and cutting-edge technology will be showcased to build up a textile bonanza covering the entire spectrum of the industry supply chain. Belt and Road strategy brought new opportunities to Yiwu? According to statistics, around 15,000 foreign merchants reside in Yiwu. Inspired by the Belt and Road initiative, Yiwu has opened 9 railway lines and nurtured trading partnerships with 64 surrounding countries and regions. The total export of Yiwu was recorded to increase by 11.3 per cent and reached RMB bn from January to May Up to 50 per cent of the increase was derived from countries along the Belt and Road. The wide geographical and commercial advantage has laid sound foundation for the development of textile and apparel industry in Yiwu and Zhejiang Province. Government favorable policy facilitates textile industry in Zhejiang Province? The supportive policy of government also brings new opportunities to the textile industry in Zhejiang Province. At present, textile manufacturing is included in the implementation of Upgrading of Traditional Industries Strategy in Zhejiang Province. And Yiwu is the pilot city for garment manufacturing industry upgrading, which has been arranged government special fund of RMB 30 mn. It is positively expected that the gross value of local garment manufacturing industry will reach RMB 36 bn by 2020, accounting for over 10 per cent of the industry gross value in Zhejiang Province. Riding on the geographical advantage brought by the Belt and Road, and commercial support from government, YiwuTex 2018 will provide an outstanding platform for the textile industry to develop and thrive. Informative concurrent events meet market needs The Upgrading of Traditional Industries Strategy has raised out 3 major challenges confronting most textile and garment enterprises in Zhejiang Province: weak brand awareness, lower design level, and the lack of professionals. To further discuss and address these problems, a series of concurrent seminars will be held concurrently during YiwuTex 2018, introducing the latest design trends and innovative technologies to help Zhejiang textile and garment industry realize smart and sustainable development. Scheduled event topics: The Prospect of Functional Knitting Technology in Multiple Applications Smart Manufacturing of Textiles Sustainable Future of Printing Textiles The Latest Applications and Trends in Digital Printing Technology More Textile Technology Applications at Knitwear Display Zone YiwuTex 2018 will continue to cooperate with premium exhibitors and established institutions to showcase the latest textile applications in traditional and emerging fields of knitting, garment, hosiery, fashion, seamless underwear, functional apparel, digital printing textiles, healthcare and footwear etc. YiwuTex 2018 is looking forward to seeing you in May 74/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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76 State-of-the-art manufacturing facilities Morgan revolutionizing cutting room segment in India Morgan Tecnica produces technology made in Italy and exports it all over the world to enlightened and modern companies. Its cutting room machinery, software and friendly service network represents the top ambition for those who operate in the textile industry and are willing to innovate. Today, the company claims to have the largest range of solutions for the cutting room. It produces several types of roll loading and handling systems, automatic spreaders, spreading tables, labellers, automatic cutters with different lay thickness, from 2,5 to 9 cm and plotters. Software for CAD, Cut Order Planning, and Virtual Fitting. Its equipment s are designed for the world of garment, furniture, automotive, accessories, sportswear and for all those industries that need to spread and cut fabric or similar materials. Besides the company s headquarter in Italy, Morgan Tecnica has 3 branches in the world: India, Canada and Hong Kong, plus a closed network of resellers and distributors, who are able to satisfy any requests, in terms of: Machinery, software and service. Since 2008, Morgan Dynamics Pvt. Ltd. (GAMD) has been the official branch of Morgan Tecnica in Asia, based in Bangalore, India. GAMD has been successfully managing an area with a population of more than 1.5 bn people, an area where Morgan Tecnica is the market leader today. Wisely Directed by Anandakumar Duraisamy, GAMD has been the first and most important reason of the continuously growing success of Morgan Tecnica in Asia. Through several offices across the entire South-East and thanks to a selected team of skilled and experienced people, it soon became a pole of excellence for the technical before and after-sales support. We are soon going to celebrate our 10th anniversary. One of the most important reasons behind our success was having a clear strategy at the start in terms of technical as well as marketing aspect. So, things didn t happen accidently, they were planned. We started in 2008, which was the worst time due to the global economic meltdown. While it was very tempting to accept some compromise for a young company in such a critical situation, but we didn t. We stuck to our original idea which was to make top technology and become an international top player, said Federica Giachetti, President, Morgan Tecnica SpA while speaking exclusively to Arvind Kumar, Editor, Knitting Views who recently visited Morgan factory in Italy. Of course technology has a price but to remain on that, without compromising in the end was successful. Because with medium or low technology of low price, there was a huge competition already and we would have been just one among so many, but at the top end which had only a few players we believed there was room for another top level player, on the condition it was committed to bring some really innovative solutions and challenging ideas. Not compromising was 76/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

77 We see ourselves as no. one in technologies which is our goal for the next three years. Of course we want to improve our size of business to improve our turnover. But we do not aim to become the largest size player but the top leader in technology, basically a dynamic family run company. Our team in India supervises the whole Asian market, than in every country we have local agents and distributors who have their own service engineers. Federica Giachetti, President, Morgan Tecnica SpA We wanted to tell our customers, that they should be confident that Morgan is not a company somewhere in Italy that just sends machines. Morgan is there in the territory with some direct people with a clear policy of after-sales-service i.e. they are not there to squeeze customers on the after sales. We consider a happy customer to be the best advertisement. We came into the market at a time when people were looking for something new and were ready for an alternative. Fabrizio Giachetti, CEO, Morgan Tecnica SpA We are the leader in India and are the first company to have installed maximum no. of cutter & spreader in India market. In our present customer list, almost 50 per cent are regular customers. India and South East Asia are our main market and will remain our main focus. India is our strategic market through which we control surrounded countries. Support for the training is from Bangalore for India as well as Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangladesh markets. Nicola Messali, Sales Director, Morgan Technica SpA In India we have a dedicated building for training center which is open for everyone. Basically the idea is when somebody buys the machine they can get the operator and also save all the training time that normally keeps the level of productivity low in the beginning. In this case you can hire operator fully trained from the training center. We keep the team of operator ready all the time. Anandakumar Duraisamy, MD, Morgan Dynamics Pvt. Ltd. KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/77

78 we opened our own branch office in India. The office was as big as our Italian office with strong team for sales and after sales service. I would say 80 per cent of people there are technicians and service engineers for software and hardware. We wanted to tell our customers, that they should be confident that Morgan is not a company somewhere in Italy that just sends machines. Morgan is there in the territory with some direct people with a clear policy of after-sales-service i.e. they are not there to squeeze customers on the after sales. We consider a happy customer to be the best advertisement. We came into the market at a time when people were looking for something new and were ready for an alternative, said Fabrizio. Adding to this Nicola Messali, Sales Director, Morgan Tecnica SpA said, We are the leader in India and are the first company to have installed maximum no. of cutter & spreader in India market. In our present customer list, almost 50 per cent are regular customers. We are growing and increasing our presence in Bangladesh. That is a huge market and requires lots of automation which is good for us. Vietnam has got a lot of important customers and likewise Cambodia. Now we are starting in China, in coming years we will have a good market. Indonesia is also a good market. Colombia and Mexico is looking for lot of automization. In Central America we are a big player. In North America we have lots of opportunities. I see we will have a lot of progress in the years to come, especially with the new preparation of PLY1, our new single ply cutter, because there is a lot of production for furniture. When asked about the reason behind their preference of India over China he said, We chose India because we knew India was more ready for us rather than China. In the beginning our size wasn t big enough to interact with huge companies expected to create 20 lines at the same time. We didn t have the infrastructure to go into that type of market and also it is a very time consuming market. We didn t have the right partner; we were not ready to protect ourselves from copying and stealing technologies. Now we have the structure and capacity to go there but before that we were suited to play in a more closed market like India which is still huge compared to Europe but not as large as China. There are more educated people in textiles so it s easy for us to communicate our solution, but in China there are difficulties in communication which becomes really complicated. We see ourselves as no. one in technologies which is our goal for the next three years. Ofcourse we want to improve our size of business to improve our turnover. But we do not aim to become the largest size player but the top leader in technology, basically a dynamic family run company. Our team in India supervises the whole Asian market, than in every country we have local agents and distributors who have their own service engineers. But our people from India go on timely check-ups to check if everything is OK there, update the local engineer and make sure that they are fully trained with the latest solution. Our office in India will still be dedicated to pre and after sales service, including local stock of spare parts, but the R&D and the production are Made in Italy, said Federica Giachetti. What edge does Morgan has over others? On this Nicola Messali said, Especially speaking about India, we have so many engineers to facilitate strong after sales service support. Service is the key for Morgan s success in India. Whatever earlier companies were doing, they were still lacking on that part. Here, we are stronger in the accessories and with our service, we take care of our customers. No other company has so many engineers for after sales in this market. Service is the key for Morgan s success in India. Talking about competition from China when it comes to cutting solutions he said, There is big competition from China to other manufacturers not only in textile but all segments. I know some producer there could offer very low price but they have their own market and the customers going to them are not Morgan customers. There is market for everybody depending on how you go for your production. So the cheap brand from China has a market and a high brand from Europe has a good market. There is customer who requires high quality, high performance, and long life for the investment of the machine. We approach the customers as a consultant. We are not here to only sell software or hardware but to provide solution as per their real need. We have to have fast communication, optimize full information inside. We have complete solution and it s a responsibility to deliver Especially talking the big brands in India from long time started investing in automation so high level of automation is now there in the companies. The manager and quality control people of high level are there in those companies, so they are really prepared. They know the numbers are really focused on the production and how could the cost saving be done. But they also have to look at the quality because they are catering to high end customers, said Nicola Messali. 78/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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80 We have been using Morgan machines for last four years, and our overall experience has been good. We are planning to buy two more machines for our Kolkata and Tirupur plants from Morgan. Until now we were getting cutting work done through job work but now all this will be done in-house. We have a good comfort level working with them and they are always there to support us. Ramesh Agarwal, Director, Rupa & Co. Ltd The company discusses with its customers and offers them customized solutions, made to measure for their needs, optimizing: Fabric, productivity, time and resources. One of the company s customers Ramesh Agarwal, Director, Rupa & Co. Ltd who happened to be visiting Morgan factory in Italy at the time of Apparel Views Editor s visit, said, We have been using Morgan machines for last four years, and our overall experience has been good. The technology today is something, which becomes obsolete after purchase as it keeps on updating. We are planning to buy two more machines for our Kolkata and Tirupur plants from Morgan. Until now we were getting cutting work done through job work but now all this will be done in-house. We have a good comfort level working with them and are confident that they are always there to support us. We are having very good experience of working with them. In today s time it is very important to upgrade your machines and go for latest technologies at the same time maintaining your preparatory facilities up to date. Due to cost of labor getting high in China and they are setting up factories in other countries, the orders are expected to shift to India and other countries which will help boosting our industry s growth. One of the major highlights at company s branch office in India is Morgan International Training Center, which is something really unique in the entire continent. Located in Bangalore, it is a campus, equipped with classrooms and a completely running cutting room for the theoretical/operational training on Morgan products, for model designers, cutting room managers and machine operators. In India we have a dedicated building for training center which is open for everyone.basically the idea is when somebody buys the machine they can get the operator and also save all the training time that normally keeps the level of productivity low in the beginning. In this case you can hire operator fully trained from the training center. We keep the team of operator ready all the time, said Anandakumar Duraisamy, MD, GA Morgan Dynamics Pvt. Ltd. Adding to this Nicola Messali said, India and South East Asia are still our main market and will remain our main focus. India is our strategic market through which we control surrounded countries. Support for the training is from Bangalore for India as well as Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangladesh markets. In China we have just started and already have direct engineers and sales support. For the future we are planning to have a direct branch there, too. When asked about future Federica said, It is never enough so we still want more and want to grow. Keeping the same trend, we are reinvesting all our profits of the company in R&D because now everybody knows Morgan is on top we want not only to keep that position but to go further. So, the new generation of machines that is coming up is really top of the line. We also invested in new Branch of product which we expect will open new markets for us. Not only garment industry that s where we basically operated so far but also automotive, furnishing and technical textiles. In future I see Morgan making stronger leadership and opening up new areas. She also added, Technology is something that evolves so fast and you have to follow that. Because if you are slow and the technology improves you are left behind. So, the solution offered by the information technology and by the electronics in the past two years has grown up so much. Now there are opportunities that two years back was not available. We could decide to just ignore that, but this is not the Morgan style and so we wanted take advantage of that and make a machine that now is going to be better performing. Our Next 2 machines will make a difference because of being more productive, accurate, reliable and with lower running costs, but most important for the very first time the machine will be able to self-adjust and control, in order to keep its performances always at top, whoever is running it. Morgan Machinery Automatic cutter Next 2 with Intelligent Auto Sharpening Cycle, Intelligent Speeds Self-Management, Intelligent Self-Diagnosis of Anomalies and Gantry System is latest revolution. Next 2 is Morgan s newest high-ply cutting machine. Available in versions 5, 7 and 9 cm compressed. Next 2 is the answer that meets all the cutting room production needs. From apparel to furnishing, from automotive to accessories manufacturers. Design and A.I. (Artificial Intelligence) are the key words of a machine that was created to think in the future. Thanks to the abundant implementation of sensors and sophisticated algorithms, Morgan Next 2 is the first machine with Artificial Intelligence that allows the best self-handling of processes such as sharpening cycles or real time speeds control. This technology guarantees the highest quality combined with the maximum productivity and the lowest running costs. Next 2 is also able to self-detect (Auto-diagnosis system) all the operating anomalies by drastically reducing breaks and machine stops 80/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

81 Santoni introduces Intarsia X sock machine In response to continuing market challenges, leading Italian knitting machine manufacturer Santoni Spa, reports that it is now ready to globally launch its innovative Intarsia X sock knitting machine, which is said to offer multiple possibilities in the knitting of unique Intarsia patterned goods. As well as intarsia socks, the Intarsia X machine features can also be used to manufacture seamless shoe uppers by using sock knitting processes and concepts. It allows the possibility of having distinct mapped areas according to the type of yarns and to the various structure combinations, so to produce a final product that is ready for the application of the sole only, to complete the manufacture of the shoe, says Santoni Marketing Manager Patrick Silva. According to Patrick Silva, the circular sock machine offers a 100 per cent sustainability process with incredible production times - from 5 to 7 minutes per piece. It guarantees quality, reliability and simple ease of use, the company reports, and can minimize costs and production times, meeting the demands of the international footwear market. The shoe uppers have dedicated areas matching unlimited patterns and colour combinations, they can have threedimensional (3D) areas and create eyelets for the laces forming a unique shape of upper, Patrick Silva adds. The 4-feed knitting machine is based on intarsia technology for the production of sports and fashion socks, and has the ability to offer unlimited patterning possibilities and colour combinations. The fully electronic, Intarsia X single cylinder machine produces true Argyle socks for men, women and children, and is controlled by an on board microcomputer. Santoni reports that the machine also has the following features: Revolutionary needle selection system that allows unprecedented 3D patterning Each feed can offer the possibility of selective terry The needles have been designed to match with an extended range of yarn counts and yarn types Sharing its machine frame and electronics with the latest generation of Lonati Group sock knitting machines, it can be offered with the renowned SbyS (Stitch-by-Stitch) automatic toe-closing device The new Santoni programming software based on the S.I.S (Santoni Intarsia System), is said to offer a programming experience that makes the preparation of Intarsia structures intuitive and easily accessible to all programmers and technicians. The new model is fully produced by Santoni on its efficient knitting machine production lines - currently the company builds three distinct product lines of knitting machines - sock machines, seamless machines and large diameter fabric and garment machines liaising with well-known brands in all aspects of textile development. Final products produced on the Santoni Intarsia X was shown at ISPO in Munich from January 2018 (Hall B3, booth 425), and the machine will be launched at Simac Tanning Tech, the international event for machinery and technologies for the footwear, leather goods and tanning industries, which takes place in Milan, concurrently with Lineapelle from 20 to 22 February 2018 at Milano Fiera Rho KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/81

82 Forthcoming trade events INTERNATIONAL DOMESTIC YARN & FABRICS SOURCING FAIR January, 2018 Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Ask Trade & Exhibitions P. Ltd. Tel: , ISPO BEIJING January, 2018 Venue: China National Convention Center, Beijing Organizer: Munich Trade Fairs Co., Ltd. Tel: +86 (21) GARMENTECH BANGLADESH January, 2018 Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Zakaria Trade & Fair Intl. Tel: , DHAKA INTL. YARN & FABRIC SHOW 31 January - 03 February, 2018 Venue: Bangabandhu International Conference Center, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: CEMS Limited Tel: TEXWORLD PARIS February, 2018 Venue: Paris Le Bourget Exhibition Centre, Le Bourget, France Organizer: Messe Frankfurt France S.A.S. Tel: AVANTEX PARIS February, 2018 Venue: Paris Le Bourget Exhibition Centre, Le Bourget, France Organizer: Messe Frankfurt France S.A.S. Tel: PREMIERE VISION-FRANCE February, 2018 Venue: Parc des expositions Paris Nord Villepinte, Villepinte, France Organizer: Premiere Vision SA Tel: +33 (0) EAST CHINA FAIR March, 2018 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China Organizer: Shanghai International Trade Promotion Co., Ltd. Tel: INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS March, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China Organizer: Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. Tel: YARN EXPO March, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China Organizer: Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Co. Ltd Tel: CHINA INTL. FASHION FAIR March, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China Organizer: China World Intl. Exhibition Co. Ltd. Tel: ATLANTA APPAREL April, 2018 Venue: Americas Mart Atlanta, USA Organizer: Americas Mart Tel: ISTANBUL YARN FAIR April, 2018 Venue: Tüyap Fair Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey Organzier: Tuyap Fairs and Exhibitions Organization Inc. Tel: +90 (212) DHAKA INTL. DENIM EXPO May, 2018 Venue: Intl. Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Denim Expert Ltd Tel: CHITTAGONG EDITION - BANGLADESH INTL GARMENT & TEXTILE MACHINERY EXPO May 2018 Venue: GEC Convention Centre, Chittagong, Bangladesh Organizer: RedCarpet365 Limited Tel: THE GARTEX SHOW Jul 2018 Venue: Intl. Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Limra Trade Fairs & Exhibitions P. Ltd. Tel: YARN FABRICS ACCESSORIES & DYE CHEM EXPO Jul 2018 Venue: Intl. Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Limra Trade Fairs & Exhibitions P. Ltd Tel: TEXTECH INTL. EXPO September, 2018 Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: CEMS Tel: ITMA June 2019 Venue: Fira De Barcelona, Gran Via, Spain Organzier: Cematex Associations Tel: +34 (93) KNIT WORLD' , January, 2018 Venue: Dana Mandi, BahadurKe Road, Ludhiana Organizer: The Journal's Publication Tel: TH NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 29 30, January, 2018 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai Organizer: CMAI Tel: / KNIT VISION February, 2018 Venue: Dana Mandi, BahadurKe Road, Near Jalandhar, Ludhiana Organizer: Showman Associates P. Ltd Tel: , IHGF DELHI FAIR SPRING February, 2018 Venue: India Expo Centre & Mart, Greater Noida Organizer: EPCH Tel: /57/58 GMMSA EXPO 26 Feb. 01 March, 2018 Venue: Dana Mandi, BahadurKe Road, Ludhiana, (Punjab) Organizer: GMMSA Tel: , YARN FABRICS & ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW March, 2018 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur Organizer: Vision Communications Tel: , GARFAB-TX SURAT March, 2018 Venue: The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Surat Organizer: Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd Tel: , F&A SHOW March, 2018 Venue: Trade Centre, KTPO, Bangalore Organizer: S S Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , INDIA FASHION FORUM March, 2018 Venue: Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel, Mumbai, India Organizer: Images Multimedia Pvt. Ltd Tel: SURAT INTL. TEXTILE & MACHINERY EXPO April, 2018 Venue: The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Surat Organizer: Red Carpet Events Tel: GARKNIT X May, 2018 Venue: Velan Hotel Fair Ground, Tirupur Organizer: Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd Tel: , FABRICS & ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW 31 May 02 June, 2018 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , YARNEX 31 May - 02 June, 2018 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , GARMENT SHOW OF INDIA June, 2018 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: Saina Events Tel: , 73, , , FASHION CONNECT June 2018 Venue: The Lalit Ashok, Kalinga Hall Bangalore Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , KNIT SHOW August, 2018 Venue: Velan Hotel Greenfields, Tiruppur Organizer: City Leaves Media Events P. Ltd. Tel: / GTE BENGALURU (GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO) August, 2018 Venue: Dr Prabhakar Kore Convention Center, Bengaluru Organizer: Garment Technology Expo Tel: , GARTEX August, 2018 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: Mex Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd. Tel: YARNEX September, 2018 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , TEXINDIA September, 2018 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , (You are requested to reconfirm dates and other information from respective organisers prior to making your travel arrangements) 82/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

83 KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018/83

84 84/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

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