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1 KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/1

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3 From The Editor s Desk... Indian garment exports has clocked 18 per cent growth since January 2017 after having remained stagnant for past three years and we hope that similar trend may continue for remaining period this year. India has a huge potential to capture the market space by focusing on man-made fibre (MMF) that is vacated by China in the international textile market due to declining China s textile exports. Synthetic textiles made from MMF account for 70 per cent of world textile supply and the rest is cotton. China's annual exports are estimated to be $150 bn. Given the scale of exports from China, even a 1 per cent shift means 10 per cent increase in India's export. Meanwhile, the textile industry is demanding exemption under the GST. They are claiming that fabric will become per cent expensive, making the Indian textiles globally uncompetitive. On this, the Finance Minister Arun Jaitley has assured that the GST rates are equal or lower than the pre-gst tax incidence and the price of fabrics are not likely to go up. Further he said that nil GST on fabrics will result in zero rating of imported fabrics, while domestic fabrics will continue to bear the burden of input taxes. The industry needs to utilise the various schemes launched by the government and should also look at entering into CIS, Africa and Far East markets to increase garment exports, apart from our traditional markets of the US and Europe. Speeding up negotiations with regard to free trade agreements (FTAs) with the EU and Canada and labour laws reforms and logistics improvement are essential for the growth of textile sector. However, there is a need to go for innovation in fabrics, integrate value chain and investment in skill development to boost exports from the country. ARVIND KUMAR Editor & Publisher KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/3

4 JUL. / AUG / VOL.-XII / ISSUE NO. 04 Editor & Publisher Arvind Kumar Associate Editor B.P. Mishra Asst. Editor Swati Sharma Editorial Adviser Rajesh Chhabara Sub Editor - Creative John Edwards Art Director Sanjay Bhandari Sr. Correspondent Ashwani Kumar Correspondent Deepti Creative - Head Sreekumar. M Sr. Layout Artist Jatin Jain Sr. Designer Rajeev Kumar Production Manager Mukesh Pokhriyal e-magazine Sumer Singh Business Promotion Bobby Bakshi (Delhi) Tapan Kumar (Delhi) Meenakshi Singh (Delhi) Rahul Singh Yadav (Delhi) N. Sabari Selvam (Tirupur) Pavithra R. (Tirupur) Srilekha G (Tirupur) Circulation Archana (Delhi) V. Murugeshwari (Tirupur) Accounts Head Anju Chauhan Tondak Head Office Apparel Views Pvt. Ltd. 138/2/9, First Floor, Kishan Garh, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi , INDIA Tel.: , Fax: Regd Office C - 46, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Sector - 22, Dwarka, New Delhi Regional Offices Tirupur No.23, Ground Floor, Indra Nagar, Avinashi Road, Tirupur Tel.: , , Bangalore B.P. Mishra: , Overseas Office Apparel Views Bangladesh Limited Section-1, Road-1, House-21, Priyanka Housing, Mirpur-1, Dhaka 1216, Bangladesh, Tel.: / / / Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor - Arvind Kumar, Printed and Processed by him at Sterling Publisher Pvt. Ltd. A - 59, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase - II, New Delhi , published from C - 46, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Sector - 22, Dwarka, New Delhi Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. CONTENTS Global update 04 Domestic update 18 Karl Mayer hosts in-house 80th anniversary shows 30 GST on textiles, clothing job work & MMF 34 Golden Falcon introduces latest knitting machines 38 Global fabric output decline, while yarn production improve 40 Sensitive Fabrics A/W collection 42 Mayer & Cie. addresses shoe upper growth market 44 Design and development of sports garments 46 Indian Yarn & Fabric industry Optimistic about future growth 52 Nilit Trends Autumn/Winter Advent acquires stake in Dixcy Textiles 90 Spinexpo TM New York 92 Shanghai debut for Shima s one-stop knitwear solution 96 Textile India Researchers develop method for artificial spider silk 106 YiwuTex INVISTA introduces LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder 112 ISPO Shanghai 114 Forthcoming trade events 118 4/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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6 Indonesian textile demand down but rise in exports Indonesian textile exports to key markets have declined as many countries have reduced imports of textiles in the first half of 2017 amid bleak global economic conditions. Shipments to the US fell 3.6 per cent (y/y), to the European Union by 4.0 per cent (y/y), and to Japan by nearly 5 per cent (y) in the January-June 2017 period. According to Ade Sudrajat, Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association (API), the apparel trade balance of Indonesia has improved markedly since the start of the year as the government has discouraged cheap imports into Indonesia to protect local industries. Meanwhile, more than 50 clothes factories have been relocated to Central Java where they started using more efficient technology and therefore their output is more competitively prices on the world market, hence boosting demand A small 0.62 per cent year-on-year (y/y) growth was detected in Indonesia's textile exports in the first half of This modest growth was supported by a 20.4 per cent (y/y) rise in knitwear exports. Ade Sudrajat, Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association (API), said that Indonesia's downstream textile manufacturers were actually pleased with this result as it exceeds expectations amid bleak textile demand from various countries. However, improved competitiveness (in terms of price and delivery) explains why demand is negative but Indonesian exports are positive, Sudrajat said. Moreover, foreign importers may now be more confident in Indonesia's economic and political stability. Based on data from Indonesia's Industry Ministry, the textiles and textile product sector contributed $11.87 bn in terms of foreign exchange earnings, or 8.2 per cent of Indonesia's total export earnings in Meanwhile, investment in this sector reached IDR 7.54 tn (approx. $567 mn) in Indonesia is one of the world's largest textile manufacturers and exporters although trailing far behind China Italian textile machinery records significant growth ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers driven by a strong performance from the domestic market has recorded a significant growth in the order index for textile machinery during the period from April to June Specifically, there was a significant increase in orders for the domestic market, where the index stood at an absolute value of 92.9 points (+66 per cent over April-June 2016). In foreign markets, the increase amounted to 22 per cent, and the absolute value of the index stood at points. The latest statistics show that the order index rose by 26 per cent compared to the same period in The value of the index stood at points (basis: 2010=100). ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi said that the data confirms that a recovery is currently underway for their domestic market. This is the third consecutive quarter that the order index is on the rise. ACIMIT has also reported a good level of participation by its members at the forthcoming Irantex exhibition, the primary trade fair for the Iranian textile and textile machinery sector, to be held in Tehran from 4 7, September Last year, the trade fair was attended by a good number of Italian manufacturers, and this year s edition will be marked by the participation of 24 machinery producers. Iran has always represented an important market for Italy s textile machinery industry. For the first three months of 2017, Italian exports to this specific market amounted to 12 mn euro Bangladesh provides training to 60,000 farmers Bangladesh Government has set up 3,050 demonstrations plot for a project which has been initiated to increase cotton production for which they have provided training to over 60,000 farmers in modern cotton cultivation, said Begum Matia Chowdhury, Agriculture Ministry of the country. Chowdhury also added that the government has initiated multiple programmes and projects such as Expansion of Cotton Cultivation Project (Phase-1) which was undertaken in financial year at an investment of Taka 105 cr. In Bangladesh, there are around 5,000 garment factories and over 450 spinning mills. The country aims to export readymade garments worth $50 bn by Chowdhury further added that cotton is the essential raw material used in the textile industry of Bangladesh, to fulfill its demand they needs to import from other countries. To replace Indian cotton import, Bangladesh should cultivation cotton within country. Rajshahi, Rangpur, Dinajpur region can be utilise for its cultivation. If requires, jute cultivation should be lowered and replaced by rice cultivation and some rice areas in north-west should be brought under cotton cultivation 6/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

7 Vietnamese textile sector attracts FDI of more than $750 mn The Vietnamese textile and apparel industry in the first six months of 2017 attracted foreign direct investment (FDI) of more than $750 mn, despite a reduced number of FDI projects in recent years and the US withdrawal from the Trans- Pacific Partnership (TPP) last January. At the moment, Vietnamese textile and apparel products account for a mere 3 per cent of the EU market. Except for the notable $220 mn Chinese investment in a polyester synthetic fibre plant in the Southern province of TayNinh, capital flows comprise mostly capital expansion investments in existing projects. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the Southern provinces of Dong Nai and Binh Duong attracted the two projects with the largest investment capital increase in the textile industry in In Binh Duong, Taiwan's Far Eastern Group raised its investment capital by $485.8 mn in its polyester and synthetic fibre production project, Far Eastern Polytex (Vietnam) Ltd. The project was initiated in June 2015 with a registered investment capital of $274 mn. This capital push makes the project one of the biggest to be certified in 2017 and will push the total registered investment to about $760 mn. In the Northern Province of BacNinh, Samsung Display Vietnam registered a $2.5 bn capital increase in its projects. Taiwan's Tainan Spinning Company Ltd, also increased its investment capital by $50 mn in Long Thai Tu Spinning Factory at Long Khanh Industrial Zone in Dong Nai. Tainan Spinning began constructing the Long Thai Tu Spinning Factory-Phase 2 at NhonTrach 2 Industrial Zone in Dong Nai before the capital raise. The project, consisting of a main factory, four finished product warehouses, a garage for workers, and other auxiliary structures, began operation in 2016 end. The company plans to build its factories in Vietnam to take advantage of the country's existing export markets. According to VITAS Vice Chairman Le Tien Truong, textile projects attracting foreign capital after the United States withdrew from the TPP is a sign of conducive investment environment. The country's textile and apparel industry still benefits from a number of free trade agreement, such as the Vietnam-EU FTA, the Vietnam-South Korea FTA, and the Vietnam-Japan FTA. The value of garment and textile exports in Vietnam, one of the largest textile exporters in Asia, has increased 3.6 times in the last decade, from $7.78 bn in 2007 to $28.02 in 2016, accounting for 16 per cent of total export turnover. The industry is expected to grow by 7 per cent in 2017, reaching $30 bn in total export value. FDI in the last decade has helped the country turn one of the five largest textile and apparel exporters in the world. Vietnam has become an ideal destination for investors in the textile industry due to its competitive labour costs and preferential policies KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/7

8 Chinese firm to invest $600 mn in Kano textile industry A Chinese multinational company, Shandong Ruyi Technology Group, is set to invest $600 mn in the textile and garment industry in Kano State. Already, talks between officials of the company and the Kano State Investment Promotion Agency had reached an advanced stage. A Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) on the investment between the two parties, would be signed in the next few months. The agency s Chairman, AlhajiIsyaku Umar Tofa, made this known during the presentation of Certificates of Occupancy (C of O) to two investors, by Governor Abdullahi Umar Ganduje, at the Government House in Kano. We are about concluding talks with them and they were encouraged by the commitment of the Ganduje administration to provide tax incentives as well as free land for their huge investment, he stated. Tofa further revealed that government would give out free land to two companies, Black Rhino/ Dangote Group to construct a 100 megawatt solar power plant, at a cost of $150 mn and St. Meer International Investment and Management Company which would invest $120 mn to finance a similar project in the State. Presenting the Certificates of Occupancy to the two investors, Ganduje said the decision to give them 207 hectares and hectares respectively, for free, was part of effort at engendering competition and attracting foreign direct investment. It is in our interest to encourage investment in areas which have potential multiplier effects on the growth of the economy, including employment generation. The two companies would generate solar power that would help in addressing the State s energy deficiency. We are willing to remove any stumbling blocks towards the success of your investments because of benefits that will come to our state, the governor stressed. Ganduje maintained that his administration decided to engage an industrialist as Chairman of the State Investment Promotion Agency in addition to actively involving representatives of what he called the main industrial blocs in the State, to hasten attainment of its desire to reposition the economy of the State Afghanistan exploring measures to revive its textile industry Afghanistan Government has called on industry owners to present plans and recommendations for ways to revive the textile industry in the country, as it harvest almost 60,000 tonne of cotton a year but there are no factories in the country to process cotton, a Finance Ministry spokesman Ajmal Hamid Abdul Rahimzai said recently. Industrialists have been asked for their recommendations on Kandahar and other textile companies so that the issue is discussed by the high economic council and it should be both in the interests of government and the private sector. But the Industrialists Union has said that government does not have the capacity to ensure textile factories are well run. If government gives textile companies to the private sector, with the help of modern technology and latest management skills they can revive Afghanistan's textile companies which will create jobs for thousands of people, said Sakhi Ahmad Paiman, Head of the Industrialist Union. In the past, there were at least seven textile companies in Afghanistan in Kabul, Parwan, Balkh, Kandahar and Baghlan which employed more than 30,000 people at one time in these factories but over the years these were destroyed in the various wars Toray invests in Hong Kong knitter Japanese Toray Industries has agreed to acquire shares in Hong Kong based Pacific Textiles Holdings to pursue its global strategic expansion and synergy effects through supply chain integration and collaboration. Toray has signed a share purchase agreement today to acquire per cent stake in Pacific Textiles from Far East Asia Limited, a company solely owned by Ip Ping Im, a Director of Pacific Textiles, and from his wife, Ip for a total consideration of HK$ 4,053,940,000. Closing is expected to occur mid-july Engaged in the manufacturing and trading of textile products since 1997, Pacific Textiles is now a leading manufacturer of customised knitted fabrics with a focus on complex, valueadded fabrics, and says it has a high profit yield thanks to its enhanced operational efficiency and effective cost control measures. Its principal manufacturing facility is located in Panyu, China, and is wellequipped with advanced production facilities, including a scalable water treatment facility and cogeneration power plant. In addition, it also has a manufacturing plant in Vietnam. Pacific Textiles and Toray have been developing new fabrics together, and Pacific Textiles has been indirectly supplying fabrics to Toray. As a long-time partner of Pacific Textiles, Toray is ideally placed to work closely with Pacific Textiles, the company reports. Through this strategic investment, Toray expects to strengthen its business relationship with Pacific Textiles and further align the interests of the two groups. By leveraging Toray's strengths in raw materials and Pacific Textiles valueadded knitting services, both groups are positioned to innovate and improve products to their end clients, as well as penetrating into new geographies and adjacent segments 8/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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10 Winner of international knitwear competition selected Yuan-Lung Kao, a student at Royal College of Art, has won the eighth edition of Feel the Yarn, the competition for international creative young students on the occasion of Pitti Filati that is becoming more and more important in the world of yarns and knitwear. Twenty-two students, who were selected for their creations by the most outstanding international fashion institutes, attended to interpret the theme Knit Mix developed by Ornella Bignami, the curator of the contest. The new approach to the knitwear design results from the shared need to investigate daring innovative ideas. Time has come to emphasise contradictions and similarities, to adopt colours in synergy or with contrasting matches, to play with unexpected and experimental mix of thin and thick, voluminous and flat, soft and rough, in a short circuit of creative solutions, the Pitti Filati exhibition organisers explain the theme. Mayer & Cie. reassigns US representation From September 1, 2017, Fi-Tech Inc. will take over as Mayer & Cie. s sales and service representative in the United States. Fi-Tech replaces Mayer Industries. Founded by Mayer & Cie. (MCT) in 1970, Mayer Industries has represented the German circular knitting machine manufacturer in the US since 1975 but is now specialised in manufacturing braiding machines. Mayer & Cie. expects the handover of representation to Fi-Tech to boost its presence in the US and to provide easier access to new customers. We collaborated for a long time and successfully with Mayer Industries, says Wolfgang Müller, Sales Director at Mayer & Cie. Today, Mayer Industries main focus lies in another area. So now is the right time, especially with several employees in the circular knitting department leaving the company as retirees, to hand over our US representation to a well-established, professional agency. From September 1, 2017, Fi-Tech, headquartered in Richmond, Virginia, will take over as Mayer & Cie. s US sales, spare parts and service representative. Preliminary talks have been under way for over two years. Initial contacts took place at the 2015 ITMA in Milan. The contracts were signed in Albstadt in mid- July The new Mayer & Cie. representation has engaged with two senior members of the Mayer Industries circular knitting team to ensure knowledge and expertise are maintained for several years and to assure the smoothest possible transition. In recent years, the American market has been challenging for Mayer & Cie. for different reasons. From our perspective, the US market has been very fragmented, Sales Director Müller explains. There are unique challenges in the Los Angeles market, caused by consolidation and the success of imported equipment, especially from South Korea. Whereas in the traditional apparel Colours are filtered, quiet; they interpret a contemporary sensitivity between masculine and feminine. Tones are expressive, cold, matched with original clash for casual look. However, the whole range may evolve into provocative visual contrasts. Mix of yarns and stitches, volumes and decorations go beyond the traditional codes, combining substance and innovation, mixing genders and generations, opening to subversive solutions. This competition, which is organised by CPF-Consorzio Promozione Filati and supported by Pitti Immagine, involves 22 companies among the most creative spinning mills attending Pitti Filati: Alpes Manifattura Filati, Biella Yarn part of Südwolle Group, Botto Giuseppe, E.Miroglio, Fabifil, Filati Biagioli Modesto, Filitaly-Lab, Filmar, Filpucci, Gi.Ti.Bi. Filati, Ilaria Manifattura Lane, Industria Italiana Filati, Lanificio Dell olivo, Linsieme Filati, ManifatturaIgea, Manifattura Sesia, New Mill, Pecci Filati, Pinori Filati, Tollegno 1900, Toscano, and Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia. A highly qualified jury, together with the votes expressed by the visitors, awarded Yuan-Lung Kao the prize offered by Biella Yarn, part of Südwolle Group, which will allow the designer to continue and to specialise his training. A special award, offered by Banana Republic, has been assigned to the project of Rebecca Holmes (London Kingston University) markets on the East coast, customers have looked primarily to a domestic supply base and service. With our new sales representation and technical service structure, we look forward to once again actively competing in both markets. Fi-Tech was founded in Its initial focus was on synthetic fibres and nonwovens, but Fi-Tech has since expanded its portfolio substantially and now represents European equipment manufacturers in dyeing, finishing and surface finishing. The geographical focus of its business is on the United States and the NAFTA member-states. In Mayer & Cie. Fi-Tech now has the first greige goods manufacturer in its portfolio. Ian Mills, market development manager at Fi-Tech, is convinced that this is an opportunity for both sides. With a circular knitting machine manufacturer we are expanding our portfolio, he explains, with our wide-ranging networks we will be able to introduce Mayer beyond the traditional circular knitting machine market 10/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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12 Terrot presents new trend driven innovation Terrot, a leading manufacturer of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines, has introduced the new UCC572TR, a computer controlled circular knitting machine, which was developed to produce high quality patterned fabric for outer wear. The UCC572TR offers an additional dimension and greater versatility to Terrot s bestseller machines UCC572 and UCC572T, the manufacturer explains. It was developed for knitting electronic-jacquard transfer relief for fashion textiles with three-way technology. This allows various pattern styles on both sides of the fabric, making the UCC572TR extremely flexible with regard to different fashion applications and bonds, the company suggests. Usual knitting structures, either one or more colours, are possible. The high-grade knitting structures as double face, jacquard and relief represent the real strength of Terrot s UCC572TR. Through special transfer technology demanding hole and structure patterns can be realised quickly and without any major effort, the company reports. Using the three-way technology, Terrot s UCC572TR is said to be extremely efficient and reliable. The model has 72 feeds over a 30-inch diameter. Similar machines hold only 48 systems at the same diameter. The machine reaches a speed factor of SF 540 and delivers a substantial production performance. Pattern changeovers can be made in seconds via USB or LAN port. With its enormous pattern possibilities, the electronically controlled knitting machine is said to offer its users greatest possible flexibility to respond quickly and flexible to changes in fashion market conditions and therefore adapt quickly to the changing customer requirements. Terrot s UCC572TR is particularly suitable for double jersey fabrics in gauge E14 to E18. At the moment, the machine model is offered with a 30- or 34-inch diameter. Powerful argument for this machine is the possible conversion to a UCC572T by changing the cylinder, cam box segments and needles H&M plans to enter Ethiopian textile industry Alot of Swedish companies including the global Swedish clothing manufacturing company H&M has keen interest to enter the growing manufacturing sector, textile industry in Ethiopia, said the outgoing Swedish Ambassador Jan Sadek. Sweden also seeks to increase its economic ties with Ethiopia. This hopefully will be important in terms of raising hard currency, catalyzing the industrial development of Ethiopia and in creating massive jobs. These opportunities further enhance the two countries economic cooperation, according to the Ambassador. The bilateral relations between the two countries started in the mid-19th century when Swedish Missionaries had come to Ethiopia. Ethiopia and Sweden have many global issues to holdon actively including the climate change, migration and global peace and security affairs, Ambassador Sadek mentioned. As both Ethiopia and Sweden are currently non-permanent members of the United Nations Security Council (UNSC), it is the right time to act jointly in the global arena to promoting climate smart economy, peace and stability. According to National Palace Protocol Affairs Head Ashebir Getnet, Swedish Government has approved a development cooperation to Ethiopia worth for a billion Krone spanned from Currently, the bilateral relationship is hiking to investment and common global concerns Pak-Turkey to sign FTA on 14 August Pakistan and Turkey s Free Trade Agreement (FTA) will be signed on August 14, for enhancing the bilateral trade between two countries. The seventh round of negotiations between the two countries on Free Trade Agreement (FTA) was milestone to reach the final agreement. Secretary Ministry of Commerce Younas Dhaga led Pakistan s delegation in negotixation on FTA between Pakistan and Turkey. Pakistan and Turkey discussed the specific sectors including textile sector during the negotiation, a Senior Official of Ministry of Commerce said. The two sides exchanged provisional lists for a final agreement in round of negotiation. Pakistan s trade balance with Turkey remained positive until 2011; however, it started decreasing since 2011, when additional duties on various commodities were imposed by the two countries. Pakistan s major imports from Turkey include manmade textiles, towels, steel structure, tanning and plastic chemicals, processed milk and whey. Whereas, the country s major exports to Turkey are denim PET, ethanol, cotton yarn, fabric and rice, garments, leather, carpets, surgical instruments, sports good, chemicals. The official said that after signing the FTA agreement Pakistan will get market space in agriculture and pharmaceutical sector in Turkey 12/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

13 Sri Lankan investors eyeing Bangladesh market Recently, Sri Lankan President Maithripala Sirisena visited Bangladesh to further strengthen the bilateral ties between the two nations which values at $142 mn and has potential to be boosted. For this purpose, there must be mutual understanding economically and politically between the two countries, in addition to the free trade agreement (FTA), for which two high commissioners had discussions a few months ago. Bangladesh exports apparel to the global market but has not been able to secure GSP Plus due to the labour rights issue, while Sri Lanka currently enjoys and hence, they are able to export apparel to the European market at cheaper rates than Bangladesh can. However, the cheap labour in that country has been the main attraction for apparel investors to come to the country. It is labour in Sri Lanka that is no longer cheap and the apparel industry has been suffering from the lack of sufficient labour, which has to be considered a key factor for boosting apparel exports by tapping GSP Plus. According to the Asian Development Bank (ADB), Bangladesh s gross domestic product (GDP) growth accelerated to 7.1 per cent in 2016 from 6.6 per cent in 2015, when Sri Lanka s economic growth in 2016 was at 4.4 per cent, lower than 4.8 per cent in Sri Lanka imports from Bangladesh apparel and clothing accessories, textile fibres, sacks and bags, pharmaceutical products, electrical machinery and equipment, edible vegetables and roots, iron and steel, chemicals, toilet and facial tissues, cellular phones and bicycle parts, when Sri Lanka exports to Bangladesh textiles and textile articles, enzymes, chemicals, minerals, plastics, rubber products, paper products and tea. Even though the goods are traded at a significant level, the emphasis has to be given to increase the trade volume and further diversify the product range benefiting both countries. Under these circumstances is that for the past few years, the Sri Lankan blue chips have been keeping an eye on the market in Bangladesh and investing in banking, energy and apparel industries, the key areas of an economy. It is reported that the Bangladeshi businesses were also invited to invest in Sri Lanka during the President s visit. Two countries are also planning a trade deal and a special economic zone. Moreover, two nations signed 12 agreements which includes a deal on an apparel firm. These agreements signed during the visit will create good market opportunities in the future, which the business communities from both countries have to be prepared to harness. The two countries, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh continue their friendly relationship for a long time in the economic and political areas, especially as members of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) dedicated to South Asian cooperation KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/13

14 Nilit takes Nylon 6.6 for apparel to new levels Nilit, a leading manufacturer and marketer of nylon textile fibres, has announced the launch of Sensil, its new Nylon 6.6 brand for apparel, at the Interfilière intimate apparel show in Paris, France. According to the manufacturer, the result of extensive market analysis and research on retail industry shifts, consumer insights, and fashion trends, Sensil represents Nilit s premium Nylon 6.6 for fashion and performance apparel and is the company s new way to communicate the benefits of its products. The apparel industry is at an exciting crossroads, said Pierluigi Berardi, Nilit Global Marketing Director. Consumers are more empowered and demanding than ever before and they re raising their expectations for performance, style, and value. At the same time, many suppliers in the industry are focusing on lowering costs and, as a result, diluting quality. With Sensil, we intend to work with our partners to reverse that trend. Sensil Nylon 6.6 is said to have an exceptional look and feel, it is soft, strong, and durable, and retains newness after many wearings and washings, the company explains. Sensil s performance features are said to include inherent odour control, temperature management, moisture management, and UV resistance. Sensil will be supported by a 360-degree communications plan targeting fabric producers, brands, retailers, and consumers that includes trade shows and events, print and digital advertising, social media, point of sale displays, and in-store events. We at Nilit are rising to meet these challenging market needs, said Ilan Melamed, General Manager of Nilit. With our expertise and reach across the global value chain and our belief in our Nylon 6.6 product portfolio, we are renewing our commitment to helping our supply chain partners differentiate and enhance their products, setting an even higher standard for innovation and service. Over the coming months, Nilit will be taking its message of fashion and performance benefits to the marketplace with a bold marketing campaign establishing Sensil as the smarter apparel choice for brands, retailers, and consumers Hyosung partnering with Sofileta expands in Europe Hyosung Creora partnering with Sofileta, a famous fabric company from France specialising in textiles and dyeing, presented fabrics at the world's largest lingerie and swimwear exhibition Interfiliere Paris 2017 that was held from July 8 to 10 in Paris, France. Creora products exhibited by Hyosung at the Interfilere Show are functional spandex products including Creora Fresh, Creora Highclo, Creora Eco-Soft and Creora Colour +. Creora Fresh with the slogan "Stay fresh all day long" is yarn that neutralizes substances that cause sweat odour and foot odour. The product is applied mainly to underwear and activewear. In addition, Creora Highclo used mainly for swimwear is yarn developed to reduce garment damage caused by chlorine. The product has a slogan "From athletic swimwear to fashion swimwear. In addition, Creora Colour Plus shows a deeper and brighter colour when dyed, while Creora EcoSoft is a functional spandex material that allows people to feel its softness. Hyosung is strategically cooperating with Sofileta to approach its European customers, including those in France. Marketing Director Ria Stern of Hyosung Global said that Hyosung has been collaborating with Sofileta since the birth of Creora, and they will continue to maintain partnerships to keep pace with rapid changes in the apparel industry Alessandro Zucchi becomes new President of ACIMIT ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Machinery Manufacturers for the Textile Industry members assembly held on 27 June, 2017 and called Alessandro Zucchi to succeed Raffaella Carabelli as President of ACIMIT. Born in the province of Bergamo in 1958, Zucchi is married and a father of two children. He has garnered multi-year experiences in the textile machinery sector, and is currently Managing Director and a partner at Ferraro, a manufacturer specialising in finishing machinery. In addition, he is a shareholder in another company in the sector, Burocco Valvole, of which he is Executive Vice President. Zucchi has long been active in the life of the association, lending his support to outgoing President Raffaella Carabelli over the past two years, as Vice President. Since 2015, he has been involved with ACIMIT s delegation at Cematex, the Committee of European Textile Machinery Associations. ACIMIT represents an industrial sector comprising around 300 manufacturers (employing close to 12,000 people) and producing machinery for an overall value of about 2.7 bn euros, with exports amounting to more than 85 per cent of total sales. Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the characteristics which have made Italy a global leader in the manufacturing of textile machinery 14/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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16 Chinese, Korean apparel makers to open plants in Ethiopia Apparel manufacturers from China, South Korea, India and other countries are lured to open new plants in the continent's second most populous nation Ethiopia which is fast developing into a dynamic apparel sourcing hub and with growing number of European and US brands sourcing garments there. A significant factor in Ethiopia's emergence on the clothing scene is the planned opening of a new railway line to a port in neighboring Djibouti, located on the Horn of Africa in the Arabian Sea. The railway will facilitate transport of goods from the landlocked country's industrial areas, like the Bole Lemi Industrial Park, an hour's drive from the capital Addis Ababa. Opened in 2015, the sprawling 150-hectare park is bustling with Chinese, Taiwanese and South Korean production facilities, conveniently clustering factories for textiles, apparel products and leather shoes in one area. At a factory operated by Shin Textile Solutions, a South Korean company, workers sit at long rows of machines sewing mainly sportswear. According to the General Manager, the plant's entire output is exported, with about 60 per cent going to Europe, 20 per cent to the US and the remainder to Asia. Japan's Fast Retailing, which manufactures and sells casual clothes under the Uniqlo brand, is among the many apparel makers that has shown interest in the plant, the Manager said. Arkebe Oqubay, special adviser to Prime Minister Hailemariam Desalegn, has pledged to transform Ethiopia from a farm economy into an industrial powerhouse. As part of its efforts to turn the country into a thriving, middleincome economy by 2025, the government has been building industrial parks. The newest is Hawassa Industrial Park. Among the 15 companies with manufacturing facilities there is PVH, a US apparel company which produces garments for a number of international brands including Calvin Klein, then exports them to Europe and the US PVH has work force of around 280 to produce garments Unique products show beauty of Santoni-Nilit partnership Santoni SpA, a pioneer in seamless technology and a leading manufacturer of a wide range of circular knitting machines, and NILIT, a global manufacturer of premium Nylon 6.6, will show an innovative capsule collection of high performance seamless athletic wear at NILIT s booth ( ) at the forthcoming Outdoor Retailer show. Outdoor Retailer will take place in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA, from July. The Santoni/NILIT capsule collection showcases the beautiful performance garments that are possible when superior yarns meet cutting edge knitting technology, says Santoni Marketing Manager Patrick Silva. The new Santoni fine gauge seamless technology (Santoni SM8/TOP2V 40 gauge) used to create the capsule collection is thought to be a technological breakthrough. Santoni s seamless technology creates fabrics with smoother surfaces that provide second skin comfort. The precision knitting constructs compression areas that support the body and variable thicknesses to pad and protect. Exact placement of vents and thermal pockets enables the release or retention of body heat in specific areas of the garment, Silva explains. Sensil premium Nylon 6.6 performance yarns from NILIT are said to be processed perfectly with the new Santoni seamless technology. The Santoni/NILIT capsule collection features Sensil Breeze with its unique cooling sensation that has been tested and proven to reduce body temperature, according to NILIT. Fabrics knitted with Sensil Breeze are soft and lightweight and offer superior drape for beautiful, comfortable garments. Soft Black, the Sensil fashion yarn, adds dramatic colour and visual impact to the capsule collection, Patrick Silva adds. The range of athletic designs in the Santoni/NILIT capsule collection aims to show the versatility of both the machinery and yarns. By working together, Santoni and NILIT have created special apparel products that meet the needs of the outdoor consumer with fashionable, lightweight, beautifully constructed garments that cool, support, and enhance comfort and appearance, Silva says. In addition to creating outstanding seamless garments, the new Santoni 40 gg SM8 TOP2 V machine is Green Label certified and has a 30 per cent smaller carbon emissions footprint than the previous model, according to the company. Santoni is committed to the Sustainable Technology project that identifies the energy consumption and environmental impact of textile machinery. Italian textile machinery manufacturers must comply with the sustainable technologies standards and related rigorous compliance standards as defined and certified by an international body in order to be awarded the Green Label, Silva concludes 16/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

17 Ethiopian industry Minister keen to promote trade Ethiopia is one of Africa s fastest growing economies and one of the region s most attractive destinations for foreign investment which aims to become a major sourcing hub for the global textile and garment industry within the next decade. A high level of Ethiopian delegation led by the honourable Bogale Feleke, State Minister, Ministry of Industry, is in India for a five-day mission to promote investment in his country s cotton, textiles and apparel sector. The mission aims to raise Indian investors awareness of the opportunities on offer in Ethiopia. The country s textile and clothing industry is burgeoning, aided by the presence of competitive labour costs and a skilled and motivated young workforce. The availability of raw cotton and other natural fibres, as well as preferential access to regional and international markets, create enormous export potential for the sector. The Ethiopian s mission, includes visits to Delhi, Ahmedabad, Dindigul and Coimbatore, is being facilitated by the International Trade Centre s Supporting Indian Trade and Investment for Africa project (SITA) with the support of Indian business and industry associations. SITA, which is funded by the United Kingdom s Department for International Development, has as one of its aims to improve the competitiveness of value chains in a number of East African countries. In Ethiopia, it is supporting the development of the cotton, textile and apparel value chain through partnerships with business and trade and investment support institutions in India. SITA works with the Government of Ethiopia and industry stakeholders to promote investment in the sector and facilitate technology exchange from India. The delegation will attend a series of workshops in each of the four cities. In Delhi and Ahmedabad, they will be hosted by the Confederation of Indian Industry; in Coimbatore, by the South India Mills Association; and in Dindigul, by the Tamil Nadu Spinning Mills Association. The workshops will provide a platform for engagement between Indian textile and garment manufacturers and the Ethiopian delegation where they can explore partnerships and opportunities for Indian companies in Ethiopia. Bilateral meetings will allow members of the Ethiopian delegation and Indian business representatives to delve further into specific opportunities. Minister Feleke said that this kind of event will provide opportunities for Indian companies to learn more about the country s conducive investment environment and favourable business opportunities. This is a great time for Indian business to benefit from Ethiopia s expanding investment opportunities KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/17

18 Austrian fibre maker to open plant in Thailand Austrian Lenzing Group is planning to open a facility to produce lyocell fibres in Thailand, the company announced on June 29. Plans are to design the plant for a capacity of up to 100,000 tonne of the cotton-like cellulose fibres annually. For this purpose, Lenzing is establishing a subsidiary in Thailand and purchasing a commercial property in an industrial park in Prachinburi east of Bangkok. In the coming months, the required permits and licenses, as well as technical planning, will be finalised, the company statement said, adding that a definitive decision on constructing the new production plant will be made in the first quarter of 2018, and, in this case, completion is scheduled for the end of The company s Board of Directors already approved the project, Lenzing Group stated. In particular, the factory will produce Tencel fibres, an environmentally friendly botanic fabric regenerated from wood cellulose and a Lenzing trademark. It is used in textile production throughout Asia, for example by the world s largest fashion company Inditex (known for its label Zara), as well as by jeans maker Levi Strauss. For Lenzing Group CEO Stefan Doboczky, choosing Thailand s Eastern Seaboard to set up a production facility was a logical next step to provide fabric to the many textile and garment producers within ASEAN, such as Cambodia, Vietnam and Indonesia, as well as in China. Furthermore, Prachinburi provided good infrastructure, room for expansion and energy supply from renewable sources, he added. The company will invest around $500 mn in the facility, Doboczky noted. The expansion to Thailand represents the next consistent step in the implementation of our strategy of increasing the share of specialty fibres and expanding our geographical footprint. With Asia accounting for 70 per cent of total Lenzing Group revenue, it is logical that we will construct the next production plant for Tencel fibres in Asia, he said Bangladesh takes initiative to cultivate Bt. cotton to increase production Bangladesh has taken initiative to begin cultivating genetically modified organism (GMO) cotton or Bt cotton in order to boost the crop's production, according to Matia Chowdhury, Agriculture Minister of the country. The decision to cultivate Bt. cotton has been taken as the harmful pest bollworm is posing as an obstacle in increasing the production of the crop in the conventional method so, Bangladesh has initiated Biotechnology based BT cultivation to boost cotton production. Chowdhury disclosed this information while replying to a query that was raised in Jatiya Sangsad. She also said that the Cotton Development Board (CDB) has set up demonstration farms to introduce the new cotton variety. Initiative will be taken to extend its cultivation after the trial period by distributing it to farmers, said Chowdhury. The 'research development for developed variety cotton and its seed' project is also underway to develop a variety of cotton which is high-yielding and takes relatively short time for cultivation, she added. She said that the government has provided training to 60,000 farmers on modern cotton cultivation and set-up 3,050 demonstration plots under a project for increasing cotton production the country. Cotton is the main raw material for textile industries and the country has to import cotton for meeting the demand of the textile industries. The country has 5,000 garment factories and 450 spinning mills. Bangladesh produced 1.56 lakh bales of cotton during the last financial year and cotton production is gradually increasing every year EU technical textiles & menswear exports up in 2016 Technical textiles and men swear exporters in EU-28 nations registered good performance in 2016, according to The European Apparel and Textile Confederation, Euratex. Technical textiles sector is a pillar of textile exports outside the EU with a 38 per cent share in 2016, while menswear exports accounted for 23 per cent of total clothing exports. Technical textiles exports outside the EU-28 once again increased year-onyear to almost 10 bn euro, an increase of 2.4 per cent in value. With 20 per cent of technical textile purchases from the EU-28, the US was far and away the main client, Euratex states in its Bulletin 2017, which provides an indepth analysis of the EU textile and clothing external trade for The report includes trade trends by sector, i.e. fibres, yarns, fabrics, carpets, technical textiles, home textiles, home textiles, workwear, mens and womenswear, by products and by EU main trading partners. Menswear exports outside the EU-28 amounted to more than 5 bn euro with a 2 per cent year-on-year increase. The leading buyer of menswear, Switzerland, reduced its purchases in value by 3.9 per cent. However, there was noteworthy double-digit growth in the value of exports to South Korea, Australia, Mexico, Serbia, Israel and Ukraine. The three major menswear products for export were: Trousers (32 per cent of category exports), shirts (19 per cent) and coats (17 per cent). Purchases of all three were up owing to the weak euro. Furthermore, exports of rugs and carpets outside the EU- 28 expanded again strongly in value by 5.5 per cent. This sector represented 4.3 per cent of all textile exports outside the EU. Customer-wise, the four main buyers the US, Switzerland, Norway and Russia absorbed 49 per cent of exports of rugs and carpets outside the EU 18/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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20 Garment exporters get interim relief with Govt. announcing RoSL The Ministry of Textile recently in New Delhi announced transitional rates for Remission of State Levies (RoSL) of garments & made-ups, exporters of garment & made- up will get ample relieve and support. The government has announced that as a transitional arrangement for the period 1st July 2017 to 30th September 2017, the exporter may claim Remission of State Levies (RoSL) at the rates prior to introduction of GST. The Union Cabinet, in June last year, had approved `6,000 cr special package for employment generation and promotion of exports in the textile and apparel sector. The special scheme for remission of state levies by the Textiles Ministry for three years was part of the package. Under the new Goods and Service Tax (GST) regime, the government had temporarily retained this important element. The textile industry had recently urged the government to continue with the Remission of State Levies (RoSL) for three years as committed in the special package because the scheme has benefited the exports of garments. Exports of garments have gone up over 31 per cent in April this year, over corresponding month last year. The Ministry disbursed `400 cr under RoSL to exporters in the last year and provisioned `1,554 cr in the current fiscal for giving supports to the exporters. Small exporters are the majority beneficiaries of the RoSL scheme and it has so far helped boost shipments from the labour-intensive segment. According to exporters from the textile sector, the RoSL scheme is in line with the principle of zero rating of export items. The scheme for Rebate of State Levies (RoSL) aimed at making garment exports competitive in the international market DMAI honors Huntsman Textile Effects Huntsman Textile Effects has been named winner in the 2016 Dyestuff Manufacturers Association of IndiXa (DMAI) Awards. Huntsman bagged two awards in recognition of its Excellent performance in exports of Dyestuffs by a large scale unit and Excellent performance in Pollution Control by a Large Scale Unit. The accolade is presented for outstanding contribution in supporting environment, health and safety and sustainability for the textile industry. The awards were presented at the 67th Annual General Meeting of DMAI in Mumbai. Huntsman Textile Effects received the awards based on criteria such as innovation, creativity, development and quality. We are honored to receive the prestigious awards and are grateful to be recognised again this year, said Nipun Soni, Site Manager for Huntsman Textile Effects Baroda plant. This acknowledgement reaffirms Huntsman Textile Effects focus on innovation and continuous improvement in safety and hazard controls to meet industry demands. We continue to draw on the expertise of our people and established processes in product stewardship. Winners of the DMAI awards 2016 were determined by judging panel from chemical, pharma, dyes and dye intermediates manufacturing industries, among others. The DMAI ceremony was held in Mumbai on July 7, This is the second consecutive year Huntsman Textile Effects has been presented DMAI Awards. Last year Huntsman was presented with awards for Excellent Performance in Exports of Dyestuffs by Large Scale unit. Huntsman Textile Effects also won the award in the category for Excellent Performance in Safety & Hazard s Control by a Large Scale unit India, Russia textile trade likely to reach more than $1bn The textile trade between India and Russia currently stands at $161 mn, but has the potential to reach more than $1 bn with a huge market of winter wears in Russia, said JK Dadu, Additional Secretary, Union Ministry of textiles while speaking at a country session on the second day of Textiles India With over 10 months of extreme cold climate in Russia, India can has the potential to cater to this weather through items such as leather jackets, caps, boots, pashmina shawls and various other woolens, which it can export. Also with Russia's push to become environment friendly, India can provide it with jute bags, Dadu added. Experts at the session also discussed how high import duties in Russia are impeding exports from India 20/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

21 NITI Aayog selects NIFT TEA in Tirupur to set up incubation centre NITI Aayog has chosen NIFT-TEA Knitwear Fashion Institute, Tirupur for setting up incubation centre in the first round. CMN Muruganandan, Chairman of the institute, said that out of 3,800 government and private institutions across India which applied, NIFT TEA Knitwear Fashion Institute, Tirupur, to host the Atal Incubation Centre under the Atal Innovation Mission (AIM) scheme which will focus on developing product technologies of functional garments, will get `10 cr for five years. They have planned to construct a 10,000 sq. ft. building to establish the incubation centre, which will be called AIC - NIFTTEA Incubation Centre for Textiles and Apparels. The facilities will comprise product development, training, conferencing and incubate work space. Budding entrepreneurs who want to create start-ups in textiles and apparels could be enrolled and their innovative ideas nurtured. Muruganandan said that Tirupur is already known for entrepreneurial promotions, and TEA is working towards achieving the goal of 1 lakh cr cluster turnover by Even though the cluster is becoming prosperous, the product diversification and innovative startup for market development is not up to the mark. At present, the garment manufacturers in the cluster have been struggling to expand their product portfolio beyond the predominant cotton-based garments owing to lack of high quality research and development. Venturing into all-season apparels at affordable costs has become the need of the hour for small and medium scale manufacturers in the cluster to survive in the highly priced and quality-driven global apparel market. The centre could provide needed support to overcome such issues as it will create a pool of resources for providing handholding support to the innovators. The centre has taken the initiative to enter a cooperation agreement with textile research associations and industries for better access to technologies and product development. It is a good opportunity for Corporates to be associated with the centre for supporting the incubation and start-up by spending their corporate social responsibility (CSR) funds. Successful entrepreneurs, sectorial experts and industrialists will be invited to the centre for mentoring the startups. The recognition is a great milestone for the institute and adds feathers to the cap of the Tirupur Exporters' Association (TEA) KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/21

22 Export of cotton textiles declined in 3 years The overall export of Indian cotton textiles has declined by 10 per cent over the past three years, Minister of State for Textiles Ajay Tamta said in a written reply to the Rajya Sabha. The cotton textiles export comprises cotton yarn, other textile yarn, fabric, made-ups articles, cotton raw waste and cotton fabrics and madeups, which include products like bedsheets, blankets and curtains. According to data shared by the Minister, the shipments of cotton textiles from India stood at `70,936 cr during , as against `72,994 cr in the previous financial year and `71,913 cr in The Directorate General of Foreign Trade, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, is the facilitator for the import and export of cotton. At present, export of cotton is under Open General Licence. The Indian textile industry see tremendous growth potential and it s market size is expected to touch $250 bn in the next two years from $150 bn now. The domestic market is currently estimated at $110 bn and exports at $40 bn, said Textile Commissioner Kavita Gupta speaking after inaugurating the 6th edition of 'HGH India 2017', the annual trade show for home textiles and home décor held in Mumbai. Gupta said that in the last two years, a lot of buoyancy has been created in the textile sector. Various schemes have been launched, not only to upgrade technology but also to extend financial aid, to the sector. The capital investment subsidy announced by the Centre has been introduced in segments like weaving, garment, technical textile and made up, which has helped the sector. They are also looking at modernising the machines and trying to add state-of-the-art facilities, which will help the sector. In addition, the government announced `6,000-cr special packages for the industry last year. Rebates on State levies have been introduced to encourage exports. There is an additional 10 per cent subsidy for the garment and made up segments, which means the home textile industry will get an effective 25 per cent capital investment subsidy on the new machines they bring in, leading to efficiency and modernisation of the sector. Subsidies have proved to be very beneficial for the sector and led to increases in employment and attracted huge investments. The commissioner added that the textile industry needs to utilise the various schemes launched by the government for the benefit of customers NIFT - TEA plans to open two outreach centers to impart skill training Tirupur garment exporters have been promoting the NIFT-TEA Knitwear Institute situated in Tirupur, Tamil Nadu to open two outreach centers outside the State. The present plans are to set-up one NIFT-TEA Skill Development Centre in Telangana and another one in Odisha, both on the invitation by the government authorities in the two respective States. Shanmugam, who is also the Chief Mentor of NIFT-TEA Knitwear Institute, and his team from Tirupur had completed discussions on the planned skill development centre with KT Ramarao, Minister for Industry and Information Technology in the Telangana Government. According to Tirupur Exporters Association President Raja Shanmugam, the centres will impart skill training to industrial workers on apparel manufacturing, Shanmugam said that the training would be in the areas of tailoring, pattern making, designing and quality checking, and thereby, make the people employable for the textile sector. Shanmugam also hinted that plans were afoot to organise a Textile Research Conclave in Tirupur shortly. He further added that different stakeholders in the textile industry will be involved in the event which was aimed at dissemination of new technologies that came out of research. A latest invitation has also come from Telangana for imparting skill enhancement training is in view of the textile park coming up at Warangal. On the invitation of the government officials in Odisha, training methodologies similar to Tamil Nadu would be adopted in there too Five P Venture signs pact with Central Silk Board Erode-based Five P Venture India Private Ltd has entered into an agreement with Bengaluru-headquartered Central Silk Board (CSB) for development and commercialisation of handloom silk products. Silk is a niche fibre, which they have not ventured into this far. With the board s technical support, they will be able to develop new, niche products, said Bharathi Chinnuswamy Chief Executive, adding this development (referring to the MoU with CSB) could also help revive the heritage skills of the handloom weavers in Chennimalai belt. This MoU was signed at the firstever mega trade fair for the textile sector organised by the Ministry of Textiles at Gandhinagar early this month. It would go a long way in boosting the eco-system of Chennimalai handloom cluster, which hitherto has not worked with any other fibre other than cotton, said Bharathi. By making such value added products will not only take the company to the next level but also enhance the income of the handloom weaving community and improve their living standard. Bharathi also expressed her awe over showcasing the company s in-house brand Nool By Hand at the Lakme Fashion Show, held during the Textiles India Fair. The apparel adorned by the men and women were of handwoven organic cotton; they were thrilled to see top models wearing their apparel. At Five P, they had earlier introduced fibres such as linen, recycled cotton, Tencel and Modal and developed a variety of fabrics 22/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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24 India has huge potential to capture market space in MMF sector India has a huge potential to capture the market space by focusing on man-made fibre (MMF) that is vacated by China in the international textile market due to declining China s textile exports, said Sunil Arora, CEO, Impluse Buying House while speaking at a seminar on "India as a sourcing hub and investment destination" on the last day of Textiles India 2017 trade fair in Gandhinagar. Synthetic textiles made from MMF account for 70 per cent of world textile supply and the rest is cotton. China's annual exports are estimated to be $150 bn. Given the scale of exports from China, even a 1 per cent shift means 10 per cent increase in India's export. MMF and synthetic textiles is the future, Arora said. Contrary to the global trend, cotton still commands more than 50 per cent of India's textile production. However, the synthetic textiles segment is gradually growing. The whole world is shifting towards MMF and India, too, has tremendous potential of growth in this segment, said Rakesh Mohan Joshi, Chairperson, Indian Institute of Foreign Trade (IIFT). According to Gautam Nair, Managing Director, Matrix Clothing, textile exports from India increased by 18 per cent in February- April 2017 period after having remained stagnant for past three years. With China's share in textile exports coming down, India has the potential to cater to the demand and cloth the world, Nair said. However, experts believe that there is a need to go for innovation in fabrics, integrate value chain and investment in skill development to boost textile exports from the country. NITI Aayog CEO, Amitabh Kant, said that under investment in the sector is the biggest challenge in India. It has resulted into weaker value chain driving foreign buyers to other countries. Speed, innovation and digitization hold the key to India's success. Speeding up negotiations with regard to free trade agreements (FTAs) with the EU and Canada and labour laws reforms and logistics improvement are essential for the growth of textile sector TEA appeals banks to pass on repo rate cut benefit In a statement, Raja M Shanmugham, President thanked the monitory policy committee for reduction of Repo rate from 6.25 per cent to 6 per cent the expected line and at the same time, he appealed to the banks to pass on the Rate cut benefits to exporters, who have been struggling and facing initial hiccups after implementation of GST from 1st July onwards. Raja M Shanmugham mentioned that the association has already represented to all banks for enhancement of limit to ease the working capital blockage and hope the banks would consider the genuine requisition of exporting units, particularly SMEs in the export sector and also pass on the Rate Cut benefits GST council likely to lower tax rate on garment job works The GST Council headed by Finance Minister Arun Jaitley and comprising of representatives of all the 29 States, soon is likely to consider lowering of tax rates for job works for making garments to 5 per cent from 18 per cent and will be also considering removing anomaly in taxation in cases where the intermediate goods are taxed at the highest bracket than the tax on final output, the source said. It will be the first fullfledged meeting of the GST Council, chaired by Jaitley and comprising State counterparts, after the roll out of the new indirect tax reform on July 1. Apart from reviewing the roll out of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) regime, the 19th meeting of the Council on August 5 may take a look at streamlining the anomalies raised by the industry over the past one month, said sources. Currently, services by way of job works in relation to textile yarns (other than man-made fibre/filament) and textile fabrics attract 5 per cent GST. Other job works in relation to garments attract an 18 per cent levy. As per the rates decided by the Council, in the textiles category, silk and jute fibre have been exempted, while cotton and natural fibre and all kinds of yarns will be levied a 5 per cent GST. Man-made fibre and yarn will, however, attracted 18 per cent tax rate. All categories of fabric attract a 5 per cent rate. Man- made apparel up to `1,000 will attract a 5 per cent tax and those costing above `1,000, will attract 12 per cent. Sources said that the Council may look at streamlining it and being all job works, including for making garments from fabric, under the 5 per cent slab. This would help the textile sector as the final product was taxed between 5-12 per cent 24/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

25 Foreign buyers seek low prices post GST on knitwear Global buyers are regularly calling suppliers in the buzzing town of Tirupur, India s biggest knitwear hub that boasts `25,000 cr exports every year. International callers, familiar with GST benefits, are very clear about what it means for them. They want a cut in prices, says S Sakthivel, Office Executive Secretary of the Tirupur Exporters Association. The knitwear industry is clear about long-term benefits, but Sakhtivel also has other callers: Exporters want details about tax implications for the industry that has numerous workers and units involved in different parts of the chain such as printing, embroidery, washing, dyeing etc., which are taxed at 18 per cent, while jobs related to yarn and fabric enjoy a 5 per cent rate. They are still coming to terms with the new system. We are caught between buyers and suppliers not knowing what to do, he rues although the industry is cautiously optimistic about GST. In the Southern States, the optimism is shared by many. Several businesses in Kerala are happy as they depend on other states for supply of many consumer goods, poultry, cosmetics and other items; pump manufacturers in Coimbatore, the country s biggest hub of the industry, are happy their tax rates haven t changed much and all firms are gaining from easier truck movement although they are concerned about the nitty-gritty of the new tax. At Tirupur, apart from the massive export orders, domestic knitwear sales amount to another `12,000 cr. Unlike for exports we don t get input credit for domestic sales. So the 18 per cent tax for job works will have to be borne by the manufacturer which naturally will raise the manufacturing cost and affect the fund flow. Unless all the works are brought under a single slab of 5 per cent, we have no option but to pass it on to the consumer, said Raja M Shanmugham, of Warsaw International and the President of the Tirupur Exporters Association. Shanmugham says nobody has a clear picture of GST. Our suppliers are confused. They approach us and when we need clarification we go to tax officials. But even they cannot give us the solution. They refer to the higher authorities, he said. The industry has been expecting a sales boost after the GST for readymade garments below `1,000 was fixed at 5 per cent, some are concerned about flood of imports. Higher cost of Tirupur garments may make the big retailers to turn to cheaper ones from Bangladesh, which has already captured 25 per cent of the market in the country, says T R Vijayakumar, who heads CBC Fashion Asia Pvt. Ltd. The pump and motor manufacturers in Coimbatore are not unduly worried about GST as the 12 per cent and 18 per cent slabs for each are only 0.5 per cent higher from before. Incidentally, Coimbatore accounts for 45 per cent of total pumps and motor production in the country amounting to `3,500-4,000 cr yearly. The problem again is job works by vendors, which is taxed at 18 per cent KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/25

26 India can be a reliable sourcing partner for ASEAN Irani was addressing the 'Conference on ASEAN India Cooperation' on the third day of the ongoing Textiles India 2017 Summit at Gandhinagar. India being the largest producer of cotton and jute and the second largest producer of man-made fibre has the potential to act as a reliable sourcing partner for ASEAN, Union Textiles Minister Smriti Irani said. She said there are enormous opportunities for collaboration between India and ASEAN in capacity building, sharing of knowledge and technology, and mutual assistance in education, research and development. Enhancing digital and infrastructure connectivity with ASEAN countries is a major priority for India, she added. Irani was addressing the 'Conference on ASEAN India Cooperation' on the third day of the ongoing Textiles India 2017 Summit at Gandhinagar. Elaborating on the existing trade relations with ASEAN, Irani said that in 2016 India's export in textiles and apparels to ASEAN was $1203 mn. Export of textiles and apparels to ASEAN comprises 3 per cent of India's total export to the world. U Khin Maung Cho, Minister of Industry, Government of Myanmar, outlined the opportunities in textile and apparel sector in Myanmar, offering huge opportunities for Indian business. Irani said Textiles India has proved that the sector was the sleeping giant that is now roaring as the Make in India lion. Nine Union Ministers shared their thoughts on strategies to transform the country's textile sector at Textiles India Commerce and Industry Minister Nirmala Sitharaman said the industry needs to tap opportunities in both domestic as well as international markets. She highlighted the importance of interest subvention in lowering the cost of capital for the industry. Sitharaman said that GST is going to be a big blessing for the sector ITF and TEA representatives meet FM Arun Jaitley Representatives of Indian Tex preneurs Federation (ITF) and Tiruppur Exporters Association (TEA) met Union Finance Minister Arun Jaitley to present three subjects thank the FM and put forward two appeals on behalf of the industry. Jaitley listened patiently and asked feedback about the implementation of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) in ground level. The ITF and TEA representatives Prabhu Damodaran, Raja Shanmugam, Krishna Kumar, and Shrihari expressed sincere thanks from the industry for the fantastic work by GST Council and the Finance Ministry for lowest slab of 5 per cent without any exemption for cotton textile sector. On behalf of their sector, they made two appeals to the Finance Minister reduction of GST rate to 12 per cent from 18 per cent for MMF yarns, and reduction of tax rate for job work for apparels and made ups from 18 per cent to 5 per cent. The Minister explained the basic logic of GST and how it will help India s economy to grow. The meeting assumes significance as the textile business in many parts of the country has come to a virtual standstill following protests and strikes by small manufacturers and traders over various aspects of the recently-introduced GST Garment exports likely to register per cent growth India's garment exports are expected to register a per cent growth in FY 18 as against $17 bn registered last year, a Senior Government official said. "We have clocked 18 per cent growth in garment exports since January 2017 and we hope that similar trend may continue for remaining period this year. Last year our garment exports stood at $17 bn," Textile Commissioner Kavita Gupta said. "Rebates on State levies have been introduced to encourage exports. There is an additional 10 per cent subsidy for the garment and made up segments, which means the home textile industry will effectively get 25 per cent capital investment subsidy on new machines they bring in, leading to efficiency and modernisation of the sector," said Gupta. Subsidies have proved be very beneficial for the sector and led to increase in employment and attracted huge investments, she added. The textile industry needs to utilise the various schemes launched by the government for the benefit of customers, the commissioner added. The industry is looking at entering into CIS, Africa and Far East markets to increase garment exports, apart from our traditional markets of US and Europe, Gupta said. To showcase business opportunity, Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has organised three-day national garment fair, the largest apparel trade show in Mumbai. The B2B fair will be spread over approximately 6 lakh sqft, covering all the halls at the Bombay Exhibition Centre. "We hope to generate 10 per cent increase in trade at `750 cr from this fair, which will have 881 stalls displaying 1,005 brands by 822 exhibitors," CMAI President Rahul Mehta said. Whilst welcoming the GST, Mehta said the government needs to reduce the GST applicable on job work for garments and made ups from 18 per cent to 5 per cent. The 18 per cent GST would be a major blow to the small manufacturers, most of whom follow the job work basis of manufacturing, he added 26/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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28 H&M to open 8 new stores in India over 6 months Swedish fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) has decided to open eight new stores In India over the next six months focusing on tier II cities. The addition of new stores would take its count to 24. H&M would add 1.60 lakh sq. ft. of retail space by the end of 2017, totaling 6.50 lakh sq. ft. within two years of starting its operations in India. "This autumn, H&M will have eight more stores across Mumbai, Bangalore, Delhi NCR as well as Indore, Coimbatore and Amritsar. Adding a total of 1,60,000 sq. ft. of retail space," H&M India Country Manager Janne Einola told. "We do see India as an important part of our global expansion; we aim to grow with our business concept of fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way," he was quoted as saying. H&M India clocked sales of approximately `435 cr from December 1, 2016 to May 31, The company also plans to go online in India from The Swedish firm said that to start online sales from 2018 is a move to tap the growing e-commerce segment. "India will be a new H&M online market in Additional new online markets will open in 2018," the company said in a report. "H&M is especially excited to expand its reach in India, a market that posestremendous potential both in tier I and tier II cities and now online," Einola said. In the first half of 2017, H&M rolled out six new online markets - Turkey, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macao, Singapore and Malaysia. It has plans to add Philippines and Cyprus later in 2017 LANXESS s Rhein Chemie business unit combines colorant specialties Following the acquisition of US firm Chemtura in April this year, LANXESS has revised its organisational structure. The two business lines Rubber Additives Business (RAB) and Colorant Additives Business (CAB) now both belong to the Rhein Chemie business unit. LANXESS s goal with this restructuring is to adopt a more targeted approach with an even stronger customer focus. The unit will in the future cover speciality business with active ingredient compounds, speciality chemicals and processing aids for the rubber, plastics and colorants industries. The two business lines have similar requirements and the realignment caters to our specialised business, which sometimes involves small volumes, says Philipp Junge, Head of the Rhein Chemie business unit since April Junge is also in charge of Rubber Additives Business, having been responsible for this business line since the end of The new head of Colorant Additives Business is Dominik Risse, who is returning to the operational side of the business from the Mergers & Acquisitions group function to take charge of this business line. He was previously responsible for LANXESS s colorants business in his role as Head of Marketing. The name Rhein Chemie, which has been a hallmark of success in the chemical industry for over 125 years, will remain the umbrella brand for rubber and colorants business. Lubricant and flame retardant additives business, meanwhile, has been transferred to MoU signed between BUFT and NIFT India BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) signed MoU with National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Ahemedabad, Gujarat on July 1, facilitating an academic exchange and faculty training programme. The MoU will extend the current agreement between the two universities for another five years. The agreement was signed by Founder Chairman, Board of Trustees of BUFT Muzaffar U Siddique and Textile Minister of Gujarat. The objective of this agreement is to encourage international cooperation, and strengthening two institutes in the following areas: NIFT will provide a semester study for BIFT students while BIFT will facilitate NIFT students to carry out Internship and Graduation Project/ Research Project in Apparel Industry at Bangladesh. Exposure to workshops, exhibitions and conducting special lectures, joint industrial projects and joint research activities. BIFT faculty / faculty groups may go to NIFT for training or NIFT may send experienced faculty members to BIFT to train the faculties of BIFT. NIFT will offer a semester input to BIFT Students at NIFT India and BIFT will LANXESS s Additives business unit. Together, these two business units form the Specialty Additives segment in the company s extended organisational structure. The Rhein Chemie business unit currently has around 1,000 employees and supplies more than 2,000 products to over 3,000 customers in 120 countries across the globe facilitate NIFT students to carry out Internship, Graduation Project and Placement in Apparel Industry in Bangladesh. Special arrangements for groups of students from one institute to another for the purpose of short-term visit (workshops, exhibitions, industries exposure) may be negotiated in a separate agreement. Founder trustees of BUFT Faruque Hassan, S M Mannan Kochi, Zarina Siddique and Pro-VC of BUFT Prof Dr. Engineer Ayub Nabi Khan were present on the occasion 28/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

29 JCPenney building cutting-edge tech platforms in Bengaluru In less than a year of opening its technology centre in Bengaluru, US retailer JCPenney has made it the hub of fundamental engineering solutions, one that works very closely with the tech team in Plano, US. The $12.5-bn US retailer has 400 people in India now, with 100 of them part of its omni-channel strategy, building solutions that integrate multiple retail channels such as physical stores, home delivery, the Web, and the mobile. The Bengaluru facility has the capacity to hold 1,000 people, indicating the extent of hiring the company plans. Like several American retailers including Target, Macy s and Sears, JCPenney has been struggling in recent years against the onslaught of online retail and changing consumer preferences, and it sees India s technology prowess as key to recovering lost ground. Michael Amend, Executive Vice-President of omni-channel in JCPenney, calls his omni-channel initiative Project Pulsar, and a significant part of this team and the leader who runs it sit in Bengaluru. We have built a pricing and promotion engine, we are investing in building mobile app capabilities, and improving the in-store experience. We are also rolling out an intelligent order sourcing logic that, when an order is made online, scans the entire inventory in real-time, understands the labour cost, transportation costs, value of the goods and a whole host of factors to figure out what is the best place to source the order from, he told on a recent visit to Bengaluru. The complex algorithm has turned the traditional order-sourcing system upside down. The team here have done an amazing job of improving the accuracy and relevance of our search through some new tech, including machine learning and advanced algorithms, Amend said. The pricing and promotion engine wasn t part of the roadmap initially. But looking at the talent, the global leadership has fast forwarded the journey. Way beyond what we expected, said DhritimanSaha, SVP digital at JCPenney. Flipkart, Snapdeal and other e-commerce players in India have produced a ready pool of talent, and JCPenney has attracted some of them. Many leaders sitting here are playing a global role. My engineering head sits in Bengaluru, but she has a team back in Dallas. My search engine leader sits here, he has a team here and in Austin, Saha said. Snehil Gambhir, MD, JCPenney Bangalore, provides another instance of how the teams here are driving tech solutions for the company s global markets. Code-named Project Delphi, the machine learning algorithm calculates the total price of items in a cart after applying local coupons real-time. Prior to that, we had legacy technologies that weren t scalable. It wasn t cloud-based and we couldn t drive personalised promotions, Gambhir said KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/29

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32 Indian Yarn & Fabric industry Optimistic about future growth The textile industry is the largest industry of modern India. The industry accounts for 14 per cent of the total industrial production, contributes to nearly 30 per cent of the total exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. Our economy is largely dependent on the textile manufacturing and trade in addition to other major industries. About 27 per cent of the foreign exchange earnings are on account of export of textiles and clothing alone. Around 8 per cent of the total excise revenue collection is contributed by the textile industry. So much so, the textile industry accounts for as large as 21 per cent of the total employment generated in the economy. Around 35 mn people are directly employed in the textile manufacturing activities. Indirect employment including the manpower engaged in agricultural based raw-material production like cotton and related trade and handling could be stated to be around another 60 mn. The structure of the textile industry is extremely complex with the modern, sophisticated and highly mechanized mill sector on the one hand and the handspinning and handweaving (handloom) sector on the other. Between the two falls the small-scale powerloom sector. Over the years, the government has granted a whole range of concessions to the non-mill sector as a result of which the share of the decentralised sector has increased considerably in the total production. Of the two sub-sectors of the decentralised sector, the powerloom sector has shown the faster rate of growth. In the production of fabrics the decentralised sector accounts for roughly 94 per cent while the mill sector has a share of only 6 per cent. 32/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

33 Fabric industry dimensions The Indian fabric industry is currently estimated at a whopping figure of $108 bn and is likely to reach around $223 bn by The industry is one of the highest yielding industries of the nation and contributes approximately 5 per cent to India s Gross Domestic Product (GDP). A recent study shows that the Indian fabric industry has the potential to surpass the $500 bn mark. Textile is also India s dominant export good and the country has been exporting fabric and other industry related goods since ages. The current textile exports of the country stood at $40 bn. The Indian textile industry has the capacity to produce a wide variety of products suitable to different market segments, both within India and across the world. The study also forecasts a humongous rise in domestic sales to $315 bn. from currently $68 bn. and a rapid increase in the exports to $185 bn. from currently $41 bn. in the upcoming few years. Even at a glance India s textile future looks quite secure as Asian peninsula is among leading producers of the major fibres in the world. India s fabric industry revolves around cotton as India is the second largest cotton producer in the world and 60 per cent of industry is also cotton based. India exports cotton fabrics majorly to Japan, United States, United Kingdom, Russia, France, Nepal, Singapore, Sri Lanka and other countries. Even though India has largest share in the world trade of cotton yarn but its trade in garments is only 4 per cent of the world's total. Current status ofspinning industry Spinning mills that were facing a problem during the first half of FY17 due to rising prices of cotton are soon set to see a U-turn in their fortunes. In the last two months, news of good monsoon, higher acreage under cotton cultivation and better output expected for the season are harbingers of stable, if not higher profitability. From April to November 2016, cotton prices (Sankar-6 variety) soared from `90 per kg to around `140 per kg. Lower crop and tight inventory levels fuelled prices in the domestic market. Meanwhile, news of China s lower stock inventory led to hope that China s cotton imports will resume again. This too supported the high cotton prices. Spinning mills therefore bore the brunt of the high prices impacting operating margins during the last two quarters. Profitability was squeezed, as a result, of the twin problems of flat revenue growth and high input costs. The average operating margin after peaking at 15.4 per cent in the September 2016 quarter, dropped to 12.8 per cent in the December quarter and further to 11 per cent in the March 2017 quarter. But softer cotton prices in the last two months bring hope for mills. Will it sustain? Industry experts forecast a 10 per cent increase in acreage in the season after a similar decline in the previous season. Also, international prices are unlikely to firm up given the robust harvest in United States of America and also Australia. Domestic prices being linked to global indicators, they should therefore stay soft in the coming months. The key, however, is for yarn demand to increase. India s total yarn production declined to a five-year low in FY2017. The Meanwhile, the size of India's textile market is expected to touch $250 bn in the next two years from $150 bn now. We see tremendous growth potential for the textile industry and it is expected to touch $250 bn in the next two years from the present $150 bn. The domestic market is (currently) estimated at $110 bn and exports at $40 bn. demand from mills was weak during 2016 primarily due to a steep decline in cotton yarn exports (due to weak Chinese imports), which comprises a third of the country s output. Although exports have revived in the last few months, analysts believe that it is insufficient to offset the steep decline earlier. Mills are also hopeful of higher off take by domestic fabric weavers given the festive season ahead and the pent-up demand following a near freeze in off take due to demonetisation and the uncertainty linked to the new goods and services tax (GST). Meanwhile, there is not much hope for mills in terms of realization on sales as yarn prices are expected to be range bound given moderate utilization levels and soft input (cotton) prices. ICRA forecasts profitability of spinners to remain range-bound at a modest level sustained during the past three years. Meanwhile, although the 5 per cent GST is a welcome step for the cotton textile industry, issues and costs related to compliance may lead to disruption in the supply chain for some more quarters, given the small and medium scale nature of spinners and weavers. A true picture on operating performance would be seen only from the second half of FY2018. Government Policies Many initiatives were announced in the Union Budget The Central Govt. has adopted a number of export promotion policies for the textile sector. It has also allowed 100 per cent FDI in the sector under the automatic route. Govt. is also focusing on upgrading labour skills by allocating $330 mn. The Government of India plans to introduce a mega package for the power loom sector, which will include social welfare schemes, insurance cover, cluster development, and upgradation of obsolete looms, along with tax benefits and marketing support, which is expected to improve the status of power loom weavers in the country. Govt. is also encouraging new entrepreneurs to invest in sectors such as knitwear by increasing allocation of funds to Mudra Bank from $20.4 bn. to $36.6 bn.the government of India has implemented several export promotion measures such as: Specified technical textile products are covered under Focus Product Scheme. Under this scheme, exports of these products are entitled for duty credit scrip equivalent to 2 per cent of freight on board (FOB) value of exports Under the Market Access Initiative (MAI) Scheme, financial assistance is provided for export promotion activities on focus countries and focus product countries KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/33

34 Under the Market Development Assistance (MDA) Scheme, financial assistance is provided for a range of export promotion activities implemented by textiles export promotion councils. Meanwhile, the recent govt. s decision of implementation of GST overall looks good for textiles in long run subject to restriction on movement of goods and refund process work smoothly. In case of exports it will have negative impact in terms of reduction in duty drawback rates, ROSL scheme announced on the same rates for 3 months but no more a support providing model, Merchandise Exports from India Scheme is continue but restriction to use it only in basic customs duty have reduced the value by 20 per cent. In case of apparel exports competition is global and export will have impact due to reduction in incentives. Further there will be more requirement of working capital now. Further putting job work under tax net and carrying rate of 18 per cent will be undue hardship. Now even job wok of cotton will attract 18 per cent GST if it is a related process of apparel. Example, garment sewing will now falls under 18 per cent GST. Government should look into incentives to keep Indian apparel industry globally competitive. Future outlook The domestic market for apparel and lifestyle products, currently estimated at $85 bn, is expected to reach $160 bn by This growth will be driven by the rising middle class. The government's industry-friendly initiatives like repealing of 1,200 "outdated laws" and carrying out 7,000 reforms have resulted in India becoming a preferred investment destination. The textiles industry has a pivotal position in the Indian economy. It is strong and competitive across the value chain. India has an Major growth drivers for India s textile & clothing industry Higher focus from Govt. of India on manufacturing sector, with textiles being one of the big focus sectors A relatively complete and robust fibre finished product value chain within India Competitive labour & energy costs Strong growth in domestic textile & clothing consumption, driven by multiple factors Major growth inhibitors Lack of globally competitive scale Infrastructural issues leading to bottlenecks in an efficient supply chain Relatively lesser investment in highvalue added fabric & non-cotton apparel Inadequate availability of skilled workforce, leading to lower productivity Absence of free trade agreements / preferential duty access with leading importing countries like USA and European Union Production of Man-made Fibre, Filament Yarn, Spun Yarn and Cloth Period Man-made fibre Man-made filament yarn Cotton yarn Blended & 100% Noncotton yarn Total Spun Yarn Mill sector Cloth Decentralized sector Grand Total (Exc. Khadi, Wool & Silk) Kg Kg Kg Kg Kg Sq. mtr Sq. mtr Sq. mtr (P) (P) (Apr.) (P) (Apr.) % Variation over (P) Provisional (Figures in million) Man-made fibre production decreased by 2.2% and filament yarn production increased by 6% during April, as compared to same period of the previous year. Cotton yarn production increased by 1.2% during April, Blended and 100% non-cotton yarn production increased by 4.7% during the year Cloth production by mill sector decreased by about 7.7% during April, The cloth production by decentralized sector increased marginally by 0.6% during April, as compared to same period of the previous year.the total cloth production during. April, has also increased marginally by 0.3% compared to same period of the previous year. 34/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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36 abundant supply of raw material like wool, cotton, silk, jute and man-made fibre. In addition, India has strong spinning, weaving, knitting and apparel manufacturing capacities. Young, skilled labour is available at a reasonable cost. Meanwhile, the size of India's textile market is expected to touch $250 bn in the next two years from $150 bn now. We see tremendous growth potential for the textile industry and it is expected to touch $250 bn in the next two years from the present $150 bn. The domestic market is (currently) estimated at $110 bn and exports at $40 bn. Various schemes have been launched, not only to upgrade technology but also to extend financial aid, to the sector. The capital investment subsidy announced by the Centre has been introduced in segments like weaving, garment, technical textile and made up, which has helped the sector.the govt. is also looking at modernising the machines and trying to add state-of-the-art facilities, which will help the sector. In addition, the government announced `6,000-cr special packages for the industry last year. Rebates on State levies have been introduced to encourage exports. There is an additional 10 per cent subsidy for the garment and made up segments, which means the home textile industry will get an effective 25 per cent capital investment subsidy on the new machines they bring in, leading to efficiency and modernisation of the sector. Subsidies have proved to be very beneficial for the sector and led to increases in employment and attracted huge investments. The textile industry needs to utilise the various schemes launched by the government for the benefit of customers. Besides, India needs to invest in research and development to develop new products, reduce transaction costs, reduce per unit costs, and finally, improve its raw material base. India needs to move from the lower-end markets to middle level valuefor-money markets and export high value-added products of international standard. Thus the industry should diversify in design to ensure quality output and technological advancement. India has made little attempt to forge partnerships in equity, technology and distribution in overseas markets. The newer nuances of global apparel trade demand joint control of brand positioning, distributing and quality assurance systems. A great deal of work has been done by Indian trade and industry to comply with ecological and environmental regulations, and so Indian garments can adopt an appropriate label Production of Fabrics in Different Sectors (Mn. Sq. Mtrs.) (April-Dec) (P) Item Mill Cotton Blended Man-Made Fibre Fabrics Total Handloom Cotton Blended Man-Made Fibre Fabrics Total Powerloom Cotton Blended Man-Made Fibre Fabrics Total Hosiery Cotton Blended Man-Made Fibre Fabrics Total All Sectors Cotton Blended Man-Made Fibre Fabrics Total Khadi, Wool, Silk. Total signifying a distinct quality. Efficiency and output of handloom and powerloom sectors also needs to be increased. The clothing sector needs the support of high quality and cost-effective cloth processing facilities. Modernisation of mills is a must. Human resource is another area of focus. The workforce must be trained and oriented towards high productivity. The business environment of the future will be intensely competitive. Countries will want their own interests to be safeguarded. As tariffs tumble, non-tariff barriers should be adopted. New consumer demands and expectations coupled with new techniques in the market will add a new dimension. E-commerce will unleash new possibilities. This will demand a new mindset to eliminate wastes, delays, and avoidable transaction costs. Effective entrepreneur-friendly institutional support will need to be extended by the government, business and umbrella organisations. 36/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

37 Item India's Export of Major Textile Items Unit Quantity Export Value in Rs. mn %Variation Fibre Cotton Raw Incl. Waste TON Manmade Staple Fibre KGS Silk Raw KGS Wool Raw KGS Silk Waste KGS Sub-total N.A Yarn / Fabrics / Madeups Cotton Yarn TON Cotton Fabrics, Madeups Etc. N.A Natural Silk Yarn, Fabrics, Madeup N.A Manmade Yarn, Fabrics, Madeups N.A Wollen Yarn, Fabrics, Madeups Etc. N.A Other Textile Yarn, Fabrics, Madeups Etc N.A Sub-total N.A RMG RMG Cotton Including Accessories N.A RMG Silk N.A RMG Manmade Fibres N.A RMG Wool N.A RMG of Other Textile Material N.A Sub-total N.A Carpet Carpet (Excl. Silk) Handmade SQM Silk Carpet SQM Sub-total Jute Jute Yarn TON Jute Raw TON Jute Hessian N.A Floor Covering of Jute SQM Other Jute Manufactures N.A Sub-total N.A Other Items Coir & Coir Manufacturers N.A Handicrafts (Excl. Handmade Crfts) N.A Handloom Products N.A Sub-total N.A Grand Total N.A N.A. : Not available The exports of textile items (in US $ terms) in increased by 1% during as compared to corresponding period of the previous year. To know more about the present status of Indian yarn and fabric industry, we interviewed leading players from both the segments. Their views are covered in next few pages. KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/37

38 Comments from Indian yarn and fabric industry... Purushottam K Vanga Chairman, Powerloom Development and Export Promotion Council The Indian textile industry is one of its kinds in the world. Here we can see that from hand woven fabrics to powerloom fabrics both exist, from cotton to synthetic almost all fibre base exist. As the culture of India is varied so do the Indian textile industry where traditional craft is surviving alongwith industrial products. The fabric production in India is dived majorly between mills, powerlooms, handlooms and hosiery. Powerloom sector is producing fabrics of various origin like cotton, polyester, blended, grieg etc. and made-ups like bed linen, kitchen linen etc. Powerloom is mainly a decentralised sector, but contributing major share in production of fabrics and its export from India. About 57 per cent of the total fabric production is shared by powerloom and about 60 per cent of the fabric meant for export is sourced from powerloom sector. The export of poweloom products from past few decades is more or less on a growth track. Currently Bangladesh, UAE, Sri Lanka, USA, Korea, are main destinations for export of fabrics. For made-ups the US, UK, Germany, France, Sweden and other European countries offers good potential for export. As the manufacturing is getting closed almost in European nations, it offers good scope for expanding the market there. Also as we are aware mostly now the garment manufacturing has shifted to Asian countries, thus fabric export to these countries are grown and thus offers scope of further expansion here. Though of course India faces a stiff competition from Bangladesh, Pakistan and Turkey in textile export, still I would say that India is being able to create its own brand value among the global players. India is among the top exporting country for textiles and clothing. It is having a good base of raw cotton production, sufficient spinning capacity, skilled labour and also whole supply chain is available here, which serves as an advantage. To remain globally competitive any country would require favourable trade policies and domestic environment, good raw material base, infrastructure facility, technology upgradation, R&D facility and socially secure environment. Indian powerloom sector is progressing towards all these with the help of government support and intervention by the industry stakeholders. To be competitive one of the major factor is advancement in technology. Efforts from govt. side and industry have been taken to upgrade the plain powerlooms to automatic/ shuttleless looms. Many of the big clusters of powerloom are now having Hitech looms like Ichalkaranji, Surat, and Erode etc. Most of the upgradation is being done under the scheme TUFS. Alongwith technological development skilled manpower is also required. The availability of cheap labour in India gives an added advantage and at the same time to produce export quality products and be globally competitive, Govt. of India is taking many initiatives to promote skill development training of work force. Also R&D sector in the field of powerloom needs improvement so that we are not dependent on imports and can get cost effective machinery and other production facility in home. Thus the growth of this sector is an amalgamation of various factors as stated above and I am hopeful that India will be a global leader in the field of textiles as was earlier. India is having a good raw material base. It is one of the largest producer of cotton and thus not dependent on import. But the price fluctuation of raw material creates a problem for further processing of it to end material. To be competitive globally, Indian exporters require marketing support. Govt. support is required for aggressive marketing for expansion of international trade and exploring emerging markets. Cost of Finance is a major hurdle in offering competitive rate by Indian exporters in international market. Thus Banks/Financial Institutes should extend full support to SME sector. Common Facility Centre should be established in each powerloom cluster. Anti-Dumping Duty should be imposed on fabrics so that cheaper import of fabrics from other countries, especially China hampering the domestic fabric industry can be controlled. 38/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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40 Comments from Indian yarn and fabric industry... Vijay Puniyani Sr. Vice President Vardhman Textiles Limited The current scenario of Indian spinning is very bad. In last three years a lot of new capacities have been installed by existing and new entrants into the market. This had been a primary reason behind creating excess capacity problem. Exports of yarns, which in was 120 mn, was 100 mn, has come down to 50 mn in March June Exports of cotton to world market has drastically reduced, reason being China diverting it sourcing to Vietnam, Bangladesh and Pakistan. This has created lots of pressure & surplus capacity story. Due to this a lot of smaller units and medium scale units are struggling to sale their production and are suffering huge cash losses. If this situation continues many smaller units will die. Demand in the exports market is reducing and domestic market is unable to absorb the surplus production for last four years. We hope in coming few years our country s exports resume again and everything gets stabilised. As far as our company is concerned, we are also suffering but because of our variety offered, we are able to sustain. Moreover, to tackle this situation, we have increased our weaving capacities and converted commodity producing to value added yarns. We also have huge diversified customers base both in India and abroad. However, despite of all this our profitability has also reduced. Our current production capacity is 1.1 mn spindles, and we are the largest one in India to produce 600 tonne yarn daily. Out of this approximately 1/ 3rd is captive, 1/3rd is exported, and 1/ 3rd is consumed by domestic market. In we are definitely not planning to expand our production but continue more value addition and modernization of our plants. Shalendra Vasudeva Chief Marketing Officer Indorama Industries Ltd. Currently, the fabric mills are kind of squeezed for margins, due to increase in input raw material cost. Most commonly used textile raw material, cotton has been at prices, higher than the expected level due to various reasons. It s translation into prices of fabric has been a challenge, due to challenged retail sales, part of which is attributed to demonetisation step of Government of India. Currently, there appears a slowdown on account of GST, which got implemented in July. Personally, I see the future to be bright, because of lower effective cost of raw material, which shall soon get translated in the books. There is insatiable desire among youthful Indian population to embrace the fashion and lifestyle product, which shall contribute to the brighter future of over clothing and textile industry of our country. With growing consciousness about our planet and effort to reduce carbon footprints is on. This leads to philosophy of use of greener textiles, which is biodegradable and postconsumer or post-industrial recycled stuff to be used as part of raw material. On functionality part, stretch is currently in vogue and we sincerely hope this trend of functionality to continue. Meanwhile, there has always been competition from countries, which either have abundant availability of raw material, affordable labour or some preferential treatment for access to user countries. Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkey all fall in either of these categories. The innovation shall take Indian mills ahead. Battle for creamier business would depend on innovation, development and speed of delivery. If not at the moment, but our mills shall make their way to edge past by improving the index of innovation. We expect govt. to reduce and the business should be done on its own merit. India is blessed with very large domestic market, which is a great boon to run a mass scale business. Our company launched 4th generation variant of our spandex polymer, which we call I-400. It is proprietary polymer, which is resistant to chemicals, has high elongation and very high degree of inter filament cohesion. It is very friendly to work with at all levels and provides great protection to INVIYA infused garments after repeated washes. Currently, we have 5,000 mtr of annual capacity and we export less than 10 per cent of our output. However, we are in advanced stage of capacity expansion and shall reach 12,000 mtr of annual capacity by end of /KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

41 Satish K Saraf GM, Best Textiles Ltd We being 100 per cent EOU for various types of yarns & fabrics across globe, and the major share belongs to exports only, have not seen any major changes in demand towards raising curve. China and Indonesia on other side have received tremendous response for the year. The things what lacks us behind is our government strategies on various fields which hamper Indian business in huge. FY 2017 would too be more or less the same. We don't see any major changes or increase in demand due to change in tax reforms recently introduced. Due to new tax reforms recently been introduced in the country, we expect lower demand across the country. Moreover small players seem to be off from the market due to this changing tax structure. With regards to issues faced, we don't foresee any rise on demand with downgraded mechanism by the government. Government needs to concentrate on huge coming out of political reforms if they really are interested for some good news of business from spinning industry. Presently, major of the apparels are being imported into the country which are in demand despite that we have all kinds of resources for in-house production. Further government needs to decide on reducing various duty's and should introduce new incentives for spinners and also regularise costs on labour which is presently on peak. With this newly introduced tax GST, which is quiet complicated though simple as defined; and with numerous filings, our government has forced people to close their units. Textile was the sector where this sector had always been out of tax mode in the past. This newly introduced GST will impact textile business in all sectors in huge. We still request government to re-consider their decisions on this new tax reforms and remove textile sector from various reforms including exports. In exports, we have major issues where the finance loss is expected is from 5-10 per cent in general where drawback and other export incentives have been abolished through modified tax structure. This is going to harm international trade in long run. As far as our company is concerned, we are planning for expansion in denim sectors which we have duly incorporated the same during the last FY; however let's see how does new tax structure helps us gain business! We are very positive of expecting some relief's from the government in the near future. KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/41

42 Comments from Indian yarn and fabric industry... Vasudeo Tipre GM-Export Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills Ltd Most of the fabric mills in India are currently facing teething issues in understanding impact of GST. Once things are streamlined & well understood by the entire value chain; hopefully we will see renewed buoyancy in the domestic markets. When it comes to competition from Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkey, I think Turkey is in a different league and hence can t be considered as a competition. For Indian mills, the real competition is from Bangladesh & Pakistan. In both these countries, the major advantages vis-a-vis India are: Favourable Vasudeo Tipre GM-Export Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills Ltd We make carded and combed yarn in count range for 20/1 to 50/1 and plus do organic and slub yarn. We export 50 per cent. For the year , we don t have any new expansion plan, just trying exchange rate, special trade agreements with Europe (duty free exports) & huge vertical set-up. For Indian mills, the strategy to mitigate the competition is to constantly work on fabric innovation. In order to build competitive advantage, it will be imperative to have quicker lead time & to maintain efficiency in production with minimum rejections. For strengthening the industry, government could support in three major areas, Infrastructure (Soft & hard), Conducive policies (FTA), offering SOPS (draw-back, TUF schemes etc.) Our company is planning to launch fabrics having multiple fibres. While designing these fabrics, we want to give special attention to shade & softer hand feel. Our current production capacity is 40 mn yards per annum. We currently supply 40 per cent in export markets, 15 per cent in the domestic brands & 45 per cent in other domestic markets. In terms of trends, knit denim continue be in vogue for the domestic markets. New shades like brown, blue & green bottoming looks promising for the upcoming seasons. Light weight, over dyed, with peach finished is been widely appreciated for the ladies wear segments. to adjust and see how to swim through these rough times was a very bad year as Indian cotton prices went up by 50 per cent in just 3 months while international just moved by 15 to 20 per cent - this impacted exports badly and mills even were under cash loss for a few months. Then demonestisation hit the industry badly is better but GST has put things at a standstill. GST has bought domestic demand to a standstill for last one month. Further post GST, drawback has come down, impacting profitability of the industry mills are struggling at the moment relief is only expected when new cotton season starts from October. GST is a setback to exports, as drawback has been reduced. Further due to removal of CVD, imports have also become cheaper by about 12 per cent. The industry is getting squeezed from both sides. Sarvesh Kumar Sain GM (Sales & Marketing) Winsome Yarns Ltd was definitely good for all organised sectors in terms of future business opportunities. Two major decision (1- demonetization applied in 2016 & 2 - GST was assured to apply in 2017) was completely in favour of all India economy GDP. There was sudden negative impact on market for short term due to these decisions and shaken complete chain but now all organised sectors will able to see fair competition. In past 2-3 years there are huge no of spindles added but there was no synchronized increase in demand in domestic as well exports. Due to gap in demand & supply, whole spinning industry struggled with low realisation on their product. We are very much positive to increase our mélange capacity by converting our traditional product manufacturing into value added mélange products with lot of innovation in product. We are into value addition at yarn stage which is raw material for apparel industry and still there are lots of scopes to grab the opportunity. Issue is less demand at end product within country where we are not using our major strength which is population. Government moves like "Make in India", "Skill India", One nation one Tax etc. will definitely boost demand within India which will reduce dependency on global market. There is sudden negative impact & agitation from textile industry as well but it will be milestone to improve our GDP due to acceptance of fair working practices. Now all organised industries like us will be having fair competition and expecting fair product realisation. Equalizing benefits in between domestic & export will never boost export so special subsidies is the only way to boost exports. As far as our company is concerned, our product range is in value added mélange yarn where we offer lot of effects yarn & special fibre yarns as part of continuous innovation through R&D. 42/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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44 Comments from Indian yarn and fabric industry... Durai Palanisamy Director, Pallavaa Group Fabric mills, the construction is increasing as few new players are entering and lots of existing players are increasing their capacities. GST will create a new change especially for the man-made fibre industry. There are two major challenges that the textiles industry is facing today. In one way problem is due to inverted duty structure in terms of raw material. It creates a lot of competition between small, medium and large scale weavers. As those large mills with technical mechanism will have more advantage over power loom people who don t have these mechanisms so they will ultimately suffer in future. Besides, there was 18 per cent duty on imports which now have been replaced by 5 per cent GST, so there will be a big challenge for domestic weaving industry to compete with those imported. The govt. should take initiatives in terms of policies to protect domestic weaving industry. So, having a uniform duty structure like cotton will help the manmade fibre industry. GST is the best thing that has happened to our country but these issues have to be sorted out so that industry could benefit out of it completely. These days a lot of new concepts are moving towards man-made synthetic fibre industry. Due to increasing demand of manmade fibres, cotton is going to be under pressure in future. India has enough competitiveness to compete globally as we have enough tools with proper policies. But the govt. should make more industry friendly policies for betterment of the industry. E.g. Interest subvention is given to few sectors only, what about the other sectors. They should be more responsive to the industry and address its requirements as soon as possible. Our main concern is that challenges that have come up due to GST, so govt. should bring out some solution for the same. As far as our company is concerned, we have capacity close to 10 mn mtr per month. Out of this 20 per cent is exported and rest is consumed domestically. Khagen Kashiwala Managing Director Spinning King (India) Limited Textile industry plays vital role in boosting the economy of the nation. Its 2nd largest industry that contributes approximately 5 per cent to India s GDP, and per cent to overall Index of industrial production. The Indian textile industry has the potential to reach $500 bn in size according to a study by Wazir Advisors and PCI Xylenes & Polyester. The growth implies domestic sales to rise to $315 bn from currently $68 bn. At the same time, exports are implied to increase to $185 bn from approximately $41 bn currently. The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around $108 bn, is expected to reach $223 bn by These days export & corporate market is looking for sustainable, eco-friendly & green products e.g. Tanboocel Jigao Bamboo Fibre. There are many new value added fibres, yarns & so on in fabrics too. Apart from regular products i.e. Cotton, Polyester & Viscose (with blends), the value addition in all stages have taken place. In all new fabrics; bamboo & with different blended fabrics are more in demand. As Bamboo is naturally antibacterial, very smooth, odourless (due to anti-bacterial property) breathable fibre, so as fabrics too. Geo textiles, technical textiles, medical textiles are also fast growing segments. There are many application of Plasma technology, supercritical carbon dioxide, ultrasonic waves, electrochemical dyeing, microwave dyeing, organic & natural dyes of textiles are some of the revolutionary ways to advance the textile wet processing. Nowadays, Indian exports have become expensive due to import duty imposed by the other countries. So India has to more focus on value added products, packing & services along with consistent quality. Competition from neighbouring countries will be always in the business; to overcome the same we should develop new technology, new concepts, new ideas to boost business. For further strengthening of this industry, we expect the govt. should do more bilateral agreements with the countries for growth in exports; Increase the exports incentives; Hold seminars to promote textile production upgradation, Collect the reviews quarterly directly from the exporters & manufacturers. We, Spinning King (India) Limited is already indulged into TANBOOCEL- Jigao Bamboo Fibre in Indian market since 2003, we are the pioneer in the market for the same. Now our new inception is Speciality Weavecoats LLP, at Dhamatvan, Tal. Daskroi, Dist., Ahmedabad a fabrics weaving plant. In the beginning we focus 80:20 domestic & exports. Gradually, we want to target export market. Our production will be 5 mn mtr annually. We have planned for 72 Brand new Picanol Summum looms. 24 looms are already in working. Our focus is new value added fabrics for shirting, suiting, Denim etc with Bamboo, linen, Ramie, Hemp, soya, milk, banana etc. 44/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

45 Shreyaskar Chaudhary Managing Director Pratibha Syntex Pvt Ltd Cotton spinners in India are considering production cuts during the current financial year to sustain profit margins, which were under pressure due to a sharp increase in the price of cotton over the last few months. Experts estimate an average production cut of 15 per cent for financial year , if the current scenario continues. We too have faced the challenge of increasing price of raw material, nevertheless we are trying to stabilise the situation by innovating and researching on exclusive products, which are cost effective. The recent govt. s decision of implementation of GST overall looks good for textiles in long run subject to restriction on movement of goods and refund process work smoothly. In case of exports it will have negative impact in terms of reduction in duty drawback rates, ROSL scheme announced on the same rates for 3 months but no more a support providing model, Merchandise Exports from India Scheme is continue but restriction to use it only in basic customs duty have reduced the value by 20 per cent. In case of apparel exports competition is global and export will have impact due to reduction in incentives. Further there will be more requirement of working capital now. Further putting job work under tax net and carrying rate of 18 per cent will be undue hardship. Now even job wok of cotton will attract 18 per cent GST if it is a related process of apparel. Example, garment sewing will now falls under 18 per cent GST. Government should look into incentives to keep Indian apparel industry globally competitive Our company Pratibha Syntex is a large vertically integrated, sustainability oriented supplier of knitted textile products. Engineering a new business paradigm, the company streamlines the production of cotton from fiber-to-garments to reflect emerging sustainable values in textiles and fashion. The export share fluctuates as per the demand from international markets. Our per day production is around 53 tonne and monthly around 1600 tonne. We hope that GST would be helpful by next quarter and the future for the Indian textile industry looks promising, buoyed by both strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. Thus, we at Pratibha are planning to expand on our export business by 25 per cent by the end of year KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/45

46 Comments from Indian yarn and fabric industry... Selva Merchandising Head Sri Kalyan Export Pvt Ltd As per present textile trends the buyers are looking for high compliance and quality standards need to be met which are to be ensured with international certifications. And we Sri Kalyan Export Private Limited knowing these requirements we are audited by international institutes and certified with compliance like GOTS, Oeko-Tex, Fair Trade, SA 8000, OCS and ISO 9001:2015 Certifications. And presently another big compliance certificate is coming up named Cradle 2 Cradle (C2C Certification) which combines material, social, safety, recycle and sustainability. We are also in early stages of Cradle 2 Cradle (C2C Certification) process. We believe that future fashion will be mostly concerned about responsible fashion, renewable fashion and sustainable fashion. Being ethical, social and responsible in textile business is must for good fashion, good water, good people and good earth. So companies only having these qualities will able to survive in future. Today, buyers and consumers are looking for fashion goods which make no harm to nature. So based on in it Tencel is catching up more attention in fashion field as it is a sustainable fabric made of wood cellulose. Tencel is one of the most environmentally friendly regenerated fabrics. We are presently doing more Tencel dyed and printed fabrics and its finishing is specially done to give soft and shining texture finish. Indian fabric mills facility is friendlier to do small quantity dyeing, printing, processing and finishing. Doing small quantity is giving us more advantage to attract small orders towards India. Compared to other neighbouring countries, which concentrates more on volume orders, our technology and processing is very high in terms of quality and finishing. These make our costs high and also we don t get government support in terms subsidy like Bangladesh, Pakistan etc., still we need to be more competitive in terms of price to be globally competitive. The government should form a committee representing all Textile Associations delegates and make a list of most urgent requirements for textile industry. This will have immediate effect on increasing the exports and need to take action on it. For example FTA with Europe is most wanted agreement which all textile people requesting from Government of India for a long time now. If implemented definitely per cent of exports will increase immediately. As far as our company is concerned, we manufacture and export fair trade certified textile products in fabrics, baby care products and home textiles. Our production capacity per month printed fabrics 2,00,000 mtr, yarn dyed fabrics 1,50,000 mtr, fabric dyed 2,00,000 mtr kitchen linens 1,00,000 pcs, table linens 1,00,000 pcs, baby bedding 10,000 pcs. Ajay Mahajan Director, BS Overseas Ltd Presently, the situation of fabric mills in India is bit fluid as with the implementation of GST because mills in West particularly are skeptical about implementation of GST on fabrics which has happened for the first time. Personally, I feel that scope and future for fabrics mills is quite bright and hoping for the positive developments in coming times. Nowadays, there is lot of value addition is being done in the fabrics and lot of playing with the yarns to make the fabrics. There is hot trend for Indigo, Lycra based fabrics as well as fabrics made of Linen as well as linen blended fabrics. Competition from Bangladesh particularly in fashion garments is immense. Can t comment much on Pakistan but Turkey is also definitely is country to look for. As Indian fabric manufacturers we have to continuously innovate and build on the capacities. Product innovation and continuous cost control is key to success. Last but not the least as Indian mills should focus on the deliverance and commitments. Govt is doing lot for the textiles but in any case textiles should be the priority sector and it should make investor friendly policies as well work out how the ailing industry can be brought out of Glut. Today, our company is widely appreciated for its attributes such as timely delivery and cost effective prices. We offer wide assortment of products to our clients across worldwide. Our range includes yarns, woven, knitted and warp knitted fabrics. We are considered as one of the prominent traders, exporters and suppliers in India, dealing in more than 1,500 types of yarns/fabrics. Our vision is to be amongst the best platform for procurement of yarns and fabrics in the textile industry. Right now we are working on some fashion fabrics which we will be launching soon. 46/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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48 Comments from Indian yarn and fabric industry... Vipin Panwar Asst. VP Marketing Intl. Business Nahar Industries The domestic market is down as post GST implementation most of the distribution centers are not up-to-date. Almost 90 per cent of the units are closed as they have applied and waiting for their GST numbers. But at the same time exports market is still doing OK. Now the govt. has imposed 5 per cent GST on fabrics which has made Indian garments more expensive in overseas market. If the situation continues like this in future most of the foreign buyers are expected to shift their sourcing to Bangladesh, which offers garments cheaper than us. So, things are expected to be clear after three-more months once everything gets stabilised. Future looks absolutely blurred as nobody knows how it s going to be till everything gets normal and international market feedback is also received. When it comes to garments exports India is not very much competitive when compared to Bangladesh at the price part. When it comes to fabric manufacturing we are far ahead than Bangladesh, in fact are exporting the same to them at a large scale. On the other side, Pakistan is also very price competitive due to various duty drawbacks provided by their govt. When it comes to Indian fabric mills, the only drawback given to us is expected to be waved off by For the betterment of Currently, exporters and organised brand segment are doing well but unorganised segment is little bit turbulent post demonetisation and GST implementation. Competitions from Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkish industries were always there. But recent past preferential tariff help them to get extra mileage. GST waiver for export with usual drawback will help Indian exporters to remain globally competitive. Let us wait and watch our government move. this industry and making us more competitive globally the govt should extend this drawback scheme further. Our company Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited, is a part of Nahar Group of Companies having a turnover of `6,000 cr, out of which `700 cr is of our company. Normally, out of our total production, 60 per cent is exported. But due to GST implementation we are exporting almost per cent of the share as the domestic buyers are not placing many orders. This year our company will be installing 80 new wider width looms, to replace few of our existing and expand our capacities further. In last financial year, we also added new processing and printing machines to our capacities. In terms of trends, these days stretches, basically functional fabrics are in good demand. European brands are looking for sustainable fabrics made out of recycled cotton. Most of the export buyers are shifting to organic cottons and sustainable stretched fabrics. As far as our company is concerned, we have launched manmade fibre blends and sustainable earth colour dyed fabric (replacing sulphur dyes) recently. We are launching this season with various permutation and combination. The new trends and finishes in fabrics are sustainable earth colour dyes gaining momentum and performance finishes like fade resist colours and repellent to water/ stain on high demand and are capitalizing the same. Ram Srinivasan, General Manager, KG Denim Ltd. Abhay Kumat, CEO, Kamadgiri Fashion Ltd Mills normally means integrated production facility from spinning to processing. There is not much production in mills and maximum 5 per cent of total production is done by organised mills. However, unorganised sector is getting stronger every day. When it comes to new trends and finishes in fabrics,easy Care Finishes are in demand these days. Cotton feel is in trend even is synthetics smooth & soft touch is admired by customers. I don't know much about growing competition from Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkey. We know Indian trends better so we can face competition. For further strengthening of this industry, we expect that GST rates should be fibre neutral. Credit policy should be textile friendly. There should be workman subsidy for new apparel manufacturing unit as they have announced in Orissa (3,000 per worker for three year for new employment). Our company produces 80 lakhs mtr fabric per annum and 30 lakhs garment per annum. We have launched Giza Cotton Yarn Dyed suiting and introducing more option in the same. 48/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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50 GST on textiles, clothing job work MMF - Problem areas The Central Government s decision on GST in respect of the textiles and clothing sector (T and C) is on expected lines. By and large, the industry s pleas for a lower rate of GST have been accepted. Not with standing this, two problem areas have been flagged off for the government s consideration one is job work and second is GST on manmade fibres (MMF) and yarn. What is encouraging is the statement of Union Finance Minister Arun Jaitley that he is giving three months time to see the operation of GST, after which he would examine various demands raised by Southern India Mills Association (SIMA) and other textile bodies. While the GST on job work up to fabric stage has been cut from 18 per cent to 5 per cent the reduction has not been extended to apparel or garment in the textile value chain. As per the government s interpretation only services classified as job work in relation to yarn and fabrics of textiles are eligible for the reduced rate of 5 per cent. On the other hand, the industry contends that job work is a manufacturing process and, hence, should be charged at the reduced rate. In textile clusters like Tirupur, a host of operations such as garment printing, embroidery, garment washing, ironing and packing are carried out by micro units on a job work basis. Some of these processes such as checking, ironing and button fixing are actually carried out by people who take their work to their home for job work. As for the MMF segment, GST is proposed to be charged at 18 per cent on yarn and 5 per cent on fabrics. Tirupur Exporters Association President Raja Shanmugam wants the rate on yarn to be pared down to 12 per cent, if not up to 5 per cent. The customs duty on MMF also needs to be reviewed and reduced if not abolished to enable the textile sector to use more MMF and reduce dependence on cotton, a natural fibre. Currently, India he says is losing ground in the global market in respect of MMF based items. This is because the ratio of cotton and synthetic usage is 70:30. It is the reverse globally. The 18 per cent GST on yarn makes the MMF-based products uncompetitive in the global market. Domestically, smaller MMF units will be badly hit. Many a Tirupur exporter apprehends that job working units in the city will be badly affected as several owners of these units Table 1.1: Installed capacity in mills (Non-SSI) No. of Mills Installed Capacity Year Spinning Composite Total Spindles Rotors Looms (Mn.) (000) (000) As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march Table 1.2: Installed capacity of small spinning Industry Year No. of SSI Units Spindles (Mn.) Rotors ( 000) As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march As of 31st march /KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

51 which operate out of homes and small dwellings employ family members and relatives. They are in a dilemma at the moment. Moreover many owners of job working units lack formal education and will have to employ a person for filing returns online. The working capital of micro, small and medium enterprises would be impacted as they would have to pay GST up front and later recover the same from the principal. Coming to MMF, yarn and fabric units will find it hard to recover the GST paid as the mechanism for availing of tax credit is available only partially says, Sakthivel, TEA, Executive Secretary. Customs and Excise duties that apply to MMFs are a major factor in determining the price structure, with no revision in Budget. The customs duty stands at 5 per cent. In addition, there is a 4 per cent special additional duty and an excise duty equivalent to 12.5 per cent. This brings the total duty incidence to 22 per cent. The MMF producers believe that import of fibres will be cheaper than indigenous ones even after taking into account costs involved in freight, insurance customs and countervailing duties. But with antidumping duties on raw materials to manufacture fibres, imported prices will be higher than domestic ones. This would significantly benefit MMF producers because of import parity. This means domestic prices are linked to imported prices. Local prices will be almost the same as imported ones enabling them to earn a higher benefit. Our current reputation in global market is basically only as an efficient supplier of fibre yarn and filament fabrics. Our presence in the final products of garments and made-ups based on MMF is limited and extra efforts are needed to market them. Obviously, the government s export incentives for these segments should be more liberal. Globally, India ranks second in man-made filament yarn production. It has 12 per cent share of global production of cellulose fibres and filaments and 7 per cent of global capacity. Installed capacity and production of viscose staple fibre is much higher than domestic consumption. This means increased availability for exports. Domestic consumption is 75 per cent of production and the rest is exported. But opposite is the case for viscose filament yarn. And import of viscose filament yarn is significantly higher than domestic consumption. The end of the quota regime meant an increase in fresh investment in the textile sector. The pace of investment needs to be stepped up. Rising input costs are a major factor affecting exports worldwide. With India enjoying the advantage of its own source of raw materials, this needs to be leveraged to gain a competitive edge over other countries. Moreover, exports of cotton and cotton yarn need to be regulated in a manner that protects the domestic industry from major fluctuations in raw material prices. There is potential to increase exports by capacity build-up in the sector. For this, improving the compliance level in the factories by introduction of common code for the apparel sector is necessary (By S.Venkitachalam) KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/51

52 AEPC launches Indian AISA Programme to promote sustainable practices To promote sustainable practices in the apparel Industry, AEPC launched Indian Apparel Industry Sustainability Programme recently at FIEO Auditorium, New Delhi. On this occasion a guidance tool on sustainability was released by Ashok G Rajani, Chairman Apparel Export Promotion Council along with Dr. Ashok Kumar, Energy Economist at Bureau of Energy Efficiency. Commenting on the initiative, Ashok G Rajani, Chairman Apparel Export Promotion Council said, There is a strong emergence of sustainability requirements as an important competitiveness tool. It is a great opportunity for us to differentiate ourselves in the global market and offer a sustainable value chain. AEPC, as the apex body of the exporters, aims at providing a platform where apparel manufacturers and exporters can turn to for all the necessary information and handholding needed for being sustainable in a holistic way. I thank C-Kinetics, our knowledge partners, for developing a comprehensive guide book on the various aspects of optimisation. Through Indian Apparel Industry Sustain Ability (AISA) Programme we intend to inculcate and encourage this process-where just doing is not enough-but bringing measurability and self-impact assessment is also important. If we can harness the industry s collective energy, adaptability and capacity for innovation, we can play an important role in creating a sustainable, fair and low-carbon world." Through the Apparel Industry Sustainability initiative, AEPC seeks to promote greater participation and inclusiveness of the apparel industry in sustainability initiatives. The programme is an endeavour to recognise and take affirmative action to counter the challenges that restrict the apparel industry from taking bigger roles in global market on account of non-compliance to sustainable parameters. This initiative aims to be a network of individuals and institutions committed to increasing sustainable practices across various segments of apparel sector. AEPC in association with CKinetics, a leading sustainability think tank -has prepared a guidance tool on sustainability which will provide guidance to companies on how they can align their strategies as well as measure and manage their contribution to achieving the sustainable goals. The event also saw participation from the representatives of leading apparel companies such as Shahi Exports, Global Mode & Accessories Private Limited and Marks & Spencer, where they presented their case studies on sustainable apparel practices. The event was concluded with a vote of thanks, proposed by HKL Maggu, Vice Chairman, AEPC 52/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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54 Global fabric output decline, WHILE YARN PRODUCTION IMPROVE Global fabric output is expected to stay stable in Q2/2017 The global yarn production improved in Q1/2017 quarter-onquarter. Thereby, output in Asia, North America and South America improved, and it declined slightly in Europe. On an annual basis, the global yarn production in Q1/2017 increased versus Q1/2016. Global yarn stocks declined in Q1/2017 quarteron-quarter with the most significant decline in South America. Also year-on-year, global yarn stocks fell slightly. Quarter-onquarter yarn orders in Europe increased, while in South America they decreased. Compared to the same quarter a year ago, yarn orders also decreased in South America and increased in Europe. Global fabric production declined in Q1/2016 against Q4/2016 due to decreases in Asia, South America and in Europe. Global fabric output improved year-on-year in Q1/2017 despite a decrease in Europe. In Q1/2017, worldwide fabric stocks fell quarter-on-quarter, with the most significant change in South America. Year-on-year, fabric stocks declined. European fabric orders remained fairly stable quarter-on-quarter while they rose in South America. On a yearly basis South America s fabric orders declined significantly while they slightly increased in Europe. Global outlook for both yarn production and fabric output signal further rise In Q1/2017, global yarn production rose by almost 30 per cent quarter-on-quarter mainly due to the 31.8 per cent increase in Asia. In North and South America yarn production increased by 13 per cent and 3.5 per cent, respectively. In Europe, there was a slight decline by 1.2 per cent. Global yarn output increased by 1.9 per cent in Q1/2017 versus Q1/2016. In Asia yarn output improved 2.1 per cent year-on-year while in South America it declined by 4 per cent and rose by 0.6 per cent in North America. In Europe yarn output increased by 1.6 per cent year-on-year. Global fabric production fell by almost 15 per cent in Q1/2017 against the previous quarter, with the most significant decrease by almost 17 per cent in Asia. Year-on-year, global fabric output improved by 1.9 per cent in Q1/2017. Thereby, Asian production increased by 2.6 per cent and South America s output improved by 2.2 per cent. Europe s fabric output fell by 8.7 per cent year-on-year. Global yarn inventories decreased in Q1/2017 by 6.6 per cent quarter-on-quarter with decrease of 6.3 per cent in Asia. In South America inventories fell by 10 per cent. In Q1/2017, production of global yarn inventories continued to decrease with the annual percentage change of 1.9 per cent. Thereby, Asian yarn stocks increased by 2.8 per cent year-on-year. European yarn stocks fell by 9.5 per cent annually and South American stocks diminished by over 41 per cent. Worldwide fabric stocks fell by 7.8 per cent quarter-on-quarter in Q1/2017. The major culprit was South America, where stocks were reduced by 34.7 per cent. In Asia fabric stocks increased by 0.6 per cent while in North America they fell by 0.8 per cent. On a yearly basis, global fabric inventories in Q1/2017 decreased by 12 per cent. Asia s fabric stocks increased by 0.9 per cent annually and South America s inventories fell by 45 per cent. In Europe fabric inventories rose by 4.7 per cent and ion North America stocks remained unchanged year-on-year. In Q1/2017, European yarn orders increased by 7.6 per cent quarter-on-quarter and in South America they decreased by 3.7 per cent. The annual percentage change of European yarn orders amounted to +1.1 per cent and decreased by 1.1 per cent in South America. European fabric orders in Q1/2017 rose by 0.4 per cent quarter-on-quarter. South American fabric orders in Q1/ 201 increased by 2.1 per centquarter-on-quarter. Year-on-year, fabric orders increased by 1.5 per cent in Europe and in South America they fell by 22.4 per cent 54/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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56 Design and development of sports garments Sportswear is clothing worn while performing a sport or doing exercise. Almost all spotswear are made up of textile materials. Sportswear is also refereed as sport-specific clothing since they are worn while playing sports, or for any practical, comfort or safety reasons. Some of the sportswear includes shorts, tracksuits, T-shirts, swim suits, wet suits, ski suits, leotards, and are also worn as casual clothing. AS Aishwarya Anand 1, PAnjana Priya1, G. Ramakrishnan 2, JSrinivasan 3-1 PG Scholars, Department of Fashion technology, Master of Apparel Technology; 2 Professor Department of Fashion Technology, & Coordinator, KCT-TIFAC CORE; 3 Professor & Head, Department of Fashion Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore. Reactions while playing sports Move easily Get hot Get cold Sweat Sweat can lead to getting cold Get dirty Rubbing/chaffing Possible falls, knocks etc. Face rain, windy, sunny, snowy Day and night visibility Requirements of a sportswear Basically, a sportswear should have Optimum heat and moisture regulation Good air and water vapour permeability Rapid moisture absorption and conveyance capacity Absence of dampness Rapid drying to prevent catching cold Low water absorption of the layer of clothing just positioned to the skin Dimensionally stable even when wet Durable Easy care Lightweight Soft and pleasant touch Smart and functional design 56/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

57 There are two types of requirements for a sportswear. They are functional requirements and aesthetic requirements. The functional requirements for active sportswear require super lightweight, low fluid resistance, super high tenacity & stretchablility whereas the aesthetic requirements includes view softness, surface texture, handle, lusture, colour & comfort. Functional requirements The most important requirement of a sportswear is its light weight. The weight of the fabric should not affect the performance of the wearer, for instance, the sportswear used for cycling should not create wind drag or be too bulky On contrary, the sportswear should be loose for certain sports for like Karate in such a way that it does not restrict the movement of the wearer Moisture is transported in textiles through capillary action or wicking. The sports garment should transport moisture away from the skin to the garment's outer surface. As removal of moisture is an important criteria, so is permeability of the fabric to rain water is important. For outdoor sports garments, it becomes a necessity For active sports, deodorizing socks and tops can be used in the form of antibacterial textiles which suppresses the growth of bacteria on the fabric which may be caused due to unpleasant odour Since sports are also performed in the outdoors, the requirement of the sportswear also includes being UV protective in such a way that it helps to reduce the impact of UV rays from reaching the skin Sportswear design must consider the thermal insulation needs of the wearer by providing the wearer to stay cool while in hot situations and to stay warm in old situations High active sportswear should also have high stretch and elastic recovery to provide sufficient fit and freedom of movement to the wearer In number of active sports like jumping, running and power lifting, compression is created by stretchable fabric to enhance the performance of an athlete. Compression athletic wear (CAW) provides the necessary compression and anatomic fit to an athlete. They are also known as skin suits as they conform to the natural curves of the body acting as second skin Sports textiles fabrics have a very high electrical conductivity, so they can permit the effectual dissipation of electrical charge Garments manufactured from sports textiles fabrics, keeps the normal stability of body comfort, because these fabrics are ultrabreathable, fast drying and possess outstanding moisture managing properties, which rapidly wick moisture away from the body These garments are also very less in weight & feature elasticity properties, which provides immense comfort and independence of movement Keeping a normal level of bacteria on the skin offers a high level of comfort and personal hygiene, especially during athletic activities The principle feature of sportswear made from knitted fabric is that the nature of the final garment and the processing it goes through are affected in a major way by the primary knitting process. Since sportswear includes all types of apparel, it is possible to be produced by four differing processes. They are fully cut, cut-stitch shaped, fully fashioned and integral garment. Sports textiles fabrics remove UVA and UVB rays that are dangerous to the skin, and guarantees an improved level of defence compared to the majority general natural and manmade fibres It also provides superior strength and durability The athletics & the leisure activities for their better performance in the sports Materials used for sportswear Fibres used Polyester Abrasion resistant durable and hardwearing Non Absorbent Doesn t soak up sweat but is resistant to rain Crease resistant Reduces ironing, good for clothes in sports bag Reasonable insulator keeps heat in quite well Moth and mildew resistant won t rot if left damp Resistant to acids sweat is an acid Collects static not good if rubbing against other fabrics Strong Nylon (Polyamide) Strong Elastic so stretches Does not absorb water Crease resistant Durable hardwearing Not very warm to wear KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/57

58 Cotton Strong Not very elastic so doesn t stretch Absorbent soaks up water Creases easily Durable Lycra / Elastane Very elastic so stretches well Crease resistant Durable so hardwearing Medium strength Not very absorbent so doesn t soak up sweat Usually combined with other fibres to make a stretchy, form fitting fabric Fabrics used Entrant Dermizax EV Lightweight fabric having a feather smooth texture with excellent waterproof/moisture permeability and durable water repellence such as 20,000 mm of water pressure resistance and moisture permeability of 30,000 g/m 2 /24 hrs Excellent and original active sportswear fabric with globally top class water proof/moisture permeability, as well as excellently durable water repellency Entrant HB Hybrid structure that synergistically integrates the advantages offered by a coating and lamination It has high resistance to water pressure and high durability against repeated washings Torray Made up of polyester micro fibre fabric with a unique highdensity weave structure comprising millions of micro crimped fibre loops It also features superb and durable water repellency, superior breathability and wind-chill resistance and attractiveness with soft hand Naiva 30 Naiva is an Eval/nylon bicomponent filament yarn and Eval is nothing but a copolymer resin of ethylenevinylalcohol In the Naiva fabrics there are many nylon micro loops on the surface, which are formed by making use of high thermal shrinkage property of Naiva yarn Naiva fabric not only has good moisture permeability but also has some other positive features like lightweight, softness and has capability of secondary finishing. The fabric is very successfully used in mountaineering wear and other active sportswear Field sensor Field Sensor is a very popular high-performance fabric from Toray, which employs a multilayer structure that not only absorbs perspiration quickly but also transports it up to the outer layer of fabric very rapidly using principle of capillary action It is composed of coarser denier yarn on the inside surface and fine denier hydrophobic polyester yarn in a mesh construction on the outer surface to accelerate quick evaporation of sweat COOLMAX DuPont COOLMAX is a high-performance fabric that can help the athletic performance of the people who wear it COOLMAX moves sweat away from the body to the outer layer of the fabric, where it dries faster than any other fabric In moisture management tests, garments made with COOLMAX dried almost completely in 30 minutes Technological textiles used Goretex Durably waterproof Very breathable Highly cold resistant Extremely light Resistant to flexing Thinsulate Insulation Thinsulate insulation Type G is comprised of 100 per cent polyester fibre Exceptionally soft and luxurious Traps and holds body heat for superior warmth Effective even when damp and after repeated washings Fibres absorb less than 1 per cent of their weight in water and dry easily Breathable Polartec Classic It is a very breathable, quick drying and non-pill fleece material. Wearing a Polartec Classic fleece underneath your waterproof enhances the breathability of the garment. Machinery used for sports garments The following machines from Mayer & Cie. are recommended for the production of sportswear garments Machine Diameter Gauge No. of Feeders Speed D4 3.2 II feeders at m/s MBF feeders at m/s MJ 0.8 E 30 E4 - E m/s IV , E15 - E24, 38 feeders at m/s 24, 26 E28 INTERRIB 30, 34 E10 E28 48, 54, m/s QC INOVIT E10 E24, 62 feeders at m/s 2.0 QC E28 INTERRIB 30, 34 E12 E16, 48, m/s 4-1.6R QC E18, E20, E22, E24, E26, E28 IG 3.2 QC 30, 34, E18 - E24, 96, 108, 1.4 m/s 36, 38 E28 114, /KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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60 Production technology for sportswear The principle feature of sportswear made from knitted fabric is that the nature of the final garment and the processing it goes through are affected in a major way by the primary knitting process. Since sportswear includes all types of apparel, it is possible to be produced by four differing processes. They are fully cut, cut-stitch shaped, fully fashioned and integral garment. Fully cut: Circular knitting of fabric > couring, bleaching and dyeing > Pressing, calendaring or stentering > Fabric spreading > Marking and cutting > Assembly > Examine and mend > Finish press Cut stitch shaped: Flat or circular knitting of blanks > Rough press > Cutting > Assembly > Examine and mend > Finish press Fully fashioned Knitting ribs and garment portions > Rough assembly > Scour, dye, finish > Press > Fabric cutting > Examine and mend > Finish press > Seamless or integral garment Knit half hose > Seam toes > Wet finish, scour, dye > Examine and mend > Finish press, set Operation Sequence for Sportswear Garments for Upper Torso (T Shirt) and Lower Torso (Trouser) T- Shirt Trouser Conclusion It is very important to design a sports garment based on the requirement of the respective sports activity. In this regard, this paper discussed the requirements of sports apparels such as a T-Shirt and a trouser with details of fibre requirements, machinery, operation sequence, and production technology for a sportswear were discussed. This paper will be useful to the academic/ industry that are planning to produce sportswear products Missed any previous issues? Visit /KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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62 Karl Mayer hosts in-house 80 th anniversary shows As the company continues to celebrate its 80th anniversary and anticipates annual sales hitting the 500 mn euro mark for 2017, Karl Mayer organised a series of open house events at its headquarters in Obertshausen, Germany, in the first week of July. Demonstrations of nine of the latest machines from the company s three business units Warp Knitting, Technical Textiles and Warp Preparation were held in the impressive 9,000-sq.-mtr development centre at Obertshausen, along with tours of the 14 mn euro new machine assembly hall, and the components production hall, which has been entirely refurbished at a cost of 8.5 mn euro. During the last two years Karl Mayer has invested approximately 40 mn euro at various worldwide locations, said CEO Arno Gärtner. These in-house shows provide our business partners with an insight into the future of textile development and production technology. Almost two years after the last ITMA, we are showing our next innovation steps responding to the challenges of digitization and the conservation of resources. High-speed tricot machine Among the machines demonstrated was the latest HKS 3-M high-speed tricot machine fitted with the LEO (low energy option) technology for reducing energy consumption. Its Kamcos 2 automation control unit is compatible with smart phones and tablets for remote operation and diagnostics and a camera faultdetection system is now installed as standard. With an impressive level of flexibility the HKS 3-M is suitable for the production of fabrics for both sportswear and shoes, in addition to textiles for automotive interiors. At the in-house show, the E 28 gauge machine was producing a two-way-stretch fabric with a mesh-patterned background, making it semi-transparent, and with an extremely smooth, soft handle. Lace meets athleisure An MJ 52/1 S lace raschel machine was meanwhile producing a complex, semi-transparent fabric based on viscose, elastane and polyamide aimed at a structure well suited to the current trend for athleisure that can include logos and lettering. The company s Rascheltronic unit produces both stretch and non-stretch fabrics for the sports and functional underwear. The jacquard-patterned fabrics are characterised by a virtually unlimited range of designs. In particular, equipping the machine with an electronic guide bar control facility enables the lapping to be changed quickly, long repeats to be worked for semi-made-up fabrics, and functional zones to be integrated. Areas with a shaping effect can also be worked in easily and incorporated during production, to include breathable zones. The non-stretch sportswear fabric being produced featured a sophisticated combination of patterns with a two-coloured pixel effect, open mesh areas and zones with increasing opening sizes to create three-dimensional surface effects. 3D, warp-knitted textiles The RD 7/2-12 EN is a flexible, high-speed machine for producing spacer textiles for different applications. End-uses include sports shoes, rucksacks, mattresses, car seats and increasingly clothing as well to name just a few. The patented EN pattern drive allows a wide variety of different patterns to be created. The fabric being produced had an attractive zigzag pattern and an extremely soft handle. This double-bar raschel machine is also available in a gauge of E 28, especially for producing stylish, 3D fashionwear. Semi-technical textiles The Wefttronic II HKS is a high-speed tricot machine with weft insertion in line with the stitches, for producing mainly semitechnical textiles. The lightweight, weft-inserted, warp-knitted textiles are used primarily as interlinings in outerwear, as well as for automotive textiles. A recent trend in the automotive sector is to use warp-knitted textiles as screens for panoramic roofs and other recent developments are apparel fabrics with decorative tree-bark looks, stretch effects and multicoloured designs, produced using different yarns. 62/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

63 Composite reinforcements The field of reinforcement fabrics for composites is a specialised market for Karl Mayer and represented by the UD 700 fibre spreading unit and the Cop Max 4 multiaxial knitting machine at the Obertshausen development centre. High-performance fibres such as carbons and aramids are expensive and, in many cases, their available can be limited. The UD 700 fibre spreading unit can be used to process expensive carbon, glass or aramid filaments. The starting materials are usually heavy tows filament yarns having up to 60,000 individual filaments. These are spread in the UD 700 and their tension and orientation are equalised. A spread, uniform tape is produced, which enables the potential of the raw materials to be exploited fully in the subsequent end-uses. Karl Mayer can supply for producing technical textiles. The sheer size of the Cop Max 4 attracted a great deal of attention at the technology show in Obertshausen. It has a working width of 2.5 mtr and is 35 mtr long, primarily for producing multiaxial textiles for reinforcing fibre composites, used, for example, in the rotor blades of wind turbines. The multiaxial reinforcing textiles for wind turbines are made primarily from glass fibres and on the Cop Max 4, the starting material is inserted using two special devices laying the yarns or tapes at angles of 80 degrees. Big demand for denim technology A further section of the development centre is devoted to the machines of the Warp Preparation business unit and includes the Prodye-S dyeing machine for the denim market, a Prosize sizing system and a Multi-Matic warp preparation unit. Jeans are the perennial evergreens of the clothing sector, and with Karl Mayer s Prodye-S machine, productivity can be doubled when processing lightweight denim, compared to other systems available on the market. The bath volume can also be reduced by 25 per cent, and water consumption and the number of yarn rejects also reduced. A second model gave a clearer view of the design of the dyeing unit, which is the heart of the machine. The application system has a particularly long immersion zone of 11.2 mtr to guarantee extremely uniform dyeing results. This business has been riding on the crest of a wave for the past 18 months according to head of the Warp Preparation business Dieter Gager. Assembly The new assembly hall at Obertshausen now houses five lines, each of which is 120 mtr long, two of them dedicated to raschel and lace machines, two to series warp knitting lines and the fifth for specialised, more time-consuming special machines. The output from the hall is around seven machines per day, equating to 2,500 a year put together by 200 specialist assemblers. The organisation of the plant allows us to respond even more quickly to market demands and the peaks that are typically During the last two years Karl Mayer has invested approximately 40 mn euro at various worldwide locations. These in-house shows provide our business partners with an insight into the future of textile development and production technology. Almost two years after the last ITMA, it is showing our next innovation steps responding to the challenges of digitization and the conservation of resources. experienced, explained Vice-President of Sales for Karl Mayer s Warp Knitting business unit Oliver Mathews. There s high automation throughout and it is all based around an internal logistics transportation train which has almost eliminated the use of fork-lift trucks and also means there are no parts stored within the hall. Construction of the hall started in August 2016 and was completed in November Production Refurbishment of the Obertshausen production hall where all crankshafts and other machine components are made involved the installation of new manufacturing systems and the reorganisation of some 80 existing tooling machines without stopping production. The result has been that the throughput for a standard crankcase, for example, has been reduced from twelve to five days. Independence With sales of 460 mn euro in 2016, Karl Mayer employs 2,500 people worldwide, 1,300 at its operations in Germany, and the rest at subsidiaries in the USA, India, Italy, Hong Kong, Japan, China and Switzerland. Of the company s three business units, Warp Knitting has its base in Obertshausen, Technical Textiles manufacturing sites are at German plants in Chemnitz and Naila and Weaving Preparation operations are in Italy and China. The family-run company, which was set up in 1937, has always set a premium on financial independence and economic sustainability and this is very evident at the Obertshausen plant, which employs 1,030 people, in 2017 KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/63

64 Researchers develop method for making artificial spider silk A team of architects & chemists from the University of Cambridge has designed super-stretchy and strong fibres which are almost entirely composed of water, and could be used to make textiles, sensors and other materials. The fibres, which resemble miniature bungee cords as they can absorb large amounts of energy, are sustainable, non-toxic and can be made at room temperature. This new method not only improves upon earlier methods of making synthetic spider silk, since it does not require high energy procedures or extensive use of harmful solvents, but it could substantially improve methods of making synthetic fibres of all kinds, since other types of synthetic fibres also rely on high-energy, toxic methods. The results are reported in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. Spider silk is one of nature s strongest materials, and scientists have been attempting to mimic its properties for a range of applications, with varying degrees of success. We have yet to fully recreate the elegance with which spiders spin silk, said co-author Dr. Darshil Shah from Cambridge s Department of Architecture. The fibres designed by the Cambridge team are spun from a soupy material called a hydrogel, which is 98 per cent water. The remaining 2 per cent of the hydrogel is made of silica and cellulose, both naturally available materials, held together in a network by barrel-shaped molecular handcuffs known as cucurbiturils. The chemical interactions between the different components enable long fibres to be pulled from the gel. The fibres are pulled from the hydrogel, forming long, extremely thin threads a few millionths of a metre in diameter. After roughly 30 seconds, the water evaporates, leaving a fibre which is both strong and stretchy. Although our fibres are not as strong as the strongest spider silks, they can support stresses in the range of 100 to 150 megapascals, which is similar to other synthetic and natural silks, said Shah. However, our fibres are non-toxic and far less energy-intensive to make. The fibres are capable of self- assembly at room temperature, and are held together by supramolecular host-guest chemistry, which relies on forces other than covalent bonds, where atoms share electrons. When you look at these fibres, you can see a range of different forces holding them together at different scales, said Yuchao Wu, a PhD student in Cambridge s Department of Chemistry, and the paper s lead author. It s like a hierarchy that results in a complex combination of properties. The strength of the fibres exceeds that of other synthetic fibres, such as cellulose-based viscose and artificial silks, as well as natural fibres such as human or animal hair. In addition to its strength, the fibres also show very high damping capacity, meaning that they can absorb large amounts of energy, similar to a bungee cord. There are very few synthetic fibres which have this capacity, but high damping is one of the special characteristics of spider silk. The researchers found that the damping capacity in some cases even exceeded that of natural silks. We think that this method of making fibres could be a sustainable alternative to current manufacturing methods, said Shah. The researchers plan to explore the chemistry of the fibres further, including making yarns and braided fibres. This research is the result of collaboration between the Melville Laboratory for Polymer Synthesis in the Department of Chemistry, led by Professor Oren Scherman; and the Centre for Natural Material Innovation in the Department of Architecture, led by Dr Michael Ramage. The two groups have a mutual interest in natural and nature-inspired materials, processes and their applications across different scales and disciplines 64/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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66 Sensitive Fabrics presents Autumn-Winter collection For the coming Autumn-Winter season, the Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey will present a versatile and adaptable fabrics collection designed for a frenetically paced contemporary urban lifestyle at the Première Vision trade fair in September. The collection revolves around the concept of adapting to numerous different occasions from a formal look for business wear to urban-chic or sophisticatedly feminine style for the more glamorous evenings out. Thanks to their versatility, Sensitive Fabrics combine prints and plains, neutrals and classical shades, warm nuances and soft brushstrokes of colour. The colour spectrum embraces wintry shades. A palette of greys and ultramarine is punctuated by hints of violet. A protagonist of the coming season, camouflage prints add a note of distinction. Coatings and metallic-effect foil prints team up with resin finishes and délavé pigments, the company explains. Digital 3D printing technology is used to interpret textural and embossed effects. Original reproductions such as leather and délavé effects are obtained by Technosolid printing. The trends for this coming season are about urban elegance contaminated by minimalism and oriental influences. Cleancut lines inspired by Japan and Korea contrast with metallic effects for an impacting style. Traditional, somewhat formal colours mingle with natural nuances while neutral tones come to life with sophisticated effects in the general chaos of prints. Images and intuitions are played out between increasingly advanced printing techniques, solid colours and new finishes, the company reports. Uncharted Territory The last theme represents a dynamic and modern mood of urban inspiration, for a lively, on-the-go lifestyle. Rich in thermoformed effects, this style presents the délavé pigments that are essential for stonewashed and stone-bleached fabrics, in order to obtain excellent bleached and garmentwashed effects. Resin coatings and canvas-look prints define Sensitive Fabrics ideal for casual and leisure wear. Colours and textures recalling the tarmac and scratched surfaces of metallic mesh are combined with finishes and prints that well lend themselves to outerwear outfits. Chaos The development of this mood unites various prints, in a celebration of chaos, guided by colour refinement and style. Ever new and variegated nuances are created, from fiery reds to more intense browns in a context that is never excessive or bewildering. The leather prints on Sensitive Fabrics, enabled by the Technosolid technique, create an effect of softness, giving each garment a high standard of finish and innovation. The elegance and distinction of 3D effects and textures are enhanced by the 3D printing technique, with a particular focus on Madras patterns, dogtooth and plaid effects. Refinement A subtle and refined style of Japanese and Korean influence melds with an elegant and offbeat cosmopolitan lifestyle. Sleek, pared-down lines recall the meticulously precise prints of Japanese painter and engraver Hiroshige, alternating bands of colour with stripes painted in strokes of delicate shades printed on Sensitive Fabrics. A collection puts the accent on minimalism with its neutral tones pervaded by the warm intensity of shades such as cream and beige, without failing to deliver that distinctive trait of refinement and elegance. 66/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

67 Formal This collection represents classical and elegant mood. Quiet, formal prints on Sensitive Fabrics flirt with a timeless luxury to reproduce pinstripes, parallel stripes and variations on this theme, which are as fresh and contemporary as if handdrawn. High definition yarn-dyed effects are combined with dynamic patterns in tones ranging from the coolest to the most neutral of greys. Cosmo Unexplored and distant, this is a world that has never ceased to fascinate with its planets and luminous constellations. So, Sensitive Fabrics are enriched by coatings and foil prints with a metallic look to create luminous surfaces. Threedimensional prints reproduce complex yet orderly cosmic effects. Circles, planets and hypnotic designs invite us to dream of outer space in shades of ultramarine and purplish nuances. Camouflage The military outfit evolves to become a fashionable choice. Wild spirited camou, designed to pass unobserved, is printed on the ideal fabrics for those who have no intention of going unnoticed. Camou leather effect prints interpreted in an assertive style become the stand-out feature of a functional and practical mood. Intense shades such as olive green create gradient effects on Sensitive Fabrics in variegated nuances inspired by the colours of nature. KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/67

68 Circular knitted fabric is growing increasingly popular as an upper material for leisure and sport shoes. The high level of productivity makes circular knitting especially interesting for the manufacture of fabric shoe uppers. Circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has in its extensive portfolio several machines that are suitable for the manufacture of shoe upper material. The long-established manufacturer s new OVJA 1.6 EE 3WT/2WT is the first machine in the company s product range that was specially designed for this purpose. Circular knitted fabric has long been in use in footwear, for the insole or the lining, for example, says Hardy Bühler, Key Account Manager Brands at Mayer & Cie. Circular knitting of shoe uppers, he adds, is a relatively recent trend. Demand has increased enormously over the past three or fouryears, and it has grown all over the world. Advantages of circular knitting over conventional manufacturing The conventional means of manufacturing shoe upper material for sport shoes has until now been either flat knitting or warp knitting. Circular knitting clearly has the edge over both of these in terms of productivity and variety of patterns. A circular knitting machine s output is around ten to twenty times that of a flat knitting machine and a warp knitting machine needs several warp beams to produce the patterns required for shoe upper material. The warp beams have to be prepared, which requires a labour input that is only worthwhile if larger quantities of the patterned fabric are to be manufactured. If a circular knitting machine is to produce a pattern, it can be changed swiftly and without complications by means of the design software. As a result, smaller lots are profitable on a circular knitting machine. The potential for circular knitting in the manufacture of shoe upper material is huge, says Mayer &Cie. s Key Account Manager Brands in view of these advantages. And we are well prepared to make good use of it. This is a reference to Mayer & Cie. s existing portfolio, which is considered to be the most comprehensive in the market. Above all, the production of shoe upper material is a use, Bühlersays, for which Mayer & Cie. s well-known OVJA range of circular knitting machines is optimally suited. MAYER & CIE. ADDRESSES SHOE UPPER GROWTH MARKET Reinforcement for a compact portfolio The OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT, for example, is an established machine in the Mayer & Cie. product range. With its stitch transfer option for the production of perforated or hole designs it has already proved suitable for the manufacture of shoe upper material. Only recently it enabled us to acquire a new customer who supplies the footwear industry, Bühler says. The OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT is very versatile in terms of the patterns it can produce, especially because it can transfer stitches on every third system. Its three-way technology ensures maximum design flexibility by means of individual needle selection. It makes a wide range of structures, including the above-mentioned hole structure, possible. Using a conversion kit the OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT can also be quickly used as a full jacquard machine to produce multicoloured shoe designs. The newcomer to the range, specially designed for use in the shoe upper sector, is the OVJA 1.6 EE 3WT/2WT. It uses three-way technology in the cylinder and two-way technology in the rib dial, thereby ensuring maximum pattern variety. This combination makes it an optimal footwear machine that is especially suitable for the production of multi-coloured designs along with microstructure elements. Other machines in the MCT range that are fit for the production of shoe upper material are, for example, the Technit D3, the OVJA 1.6 E and the OVJA 0.8 E. The Technit D3 knits three-threaded on the cylinder side and produces spacer structures with four needle tracks. The OVJA 1.6 E offers an almost unlimited number of knitted structures, while the OVJA 0.8 E is the right machine for coarseknit jacquard and hole structures 68/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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70 Golden Falcon introduces latest knitting machines Established in 2003, Golden Falcon India is the pioneer organisation in the sales and service of computeried embroidery machine, computerised flat knitting machines, circular knitting machines, pearl / stone fixing machines, laser cutting machines, socks knitting machines, legging knitting machines and weaving machines. LKM Circular knitting machine Golden Falcon has a vision to deliver best of its kind technology from China and Korea since The company s mission is to satisfy its customers by providing best machines, which is the reason it is offering machinery from leading technology suppliers from all over the world. It believes in providing transparent & hassles free operation in sales and services of all type of machines it offers. The company recently introduced following new machines to the market: LKM Circular knitting machine for domestic knitters The main features of the newly launched technology are: Dia Range from 8 to 36 for making only domestic knitters, Cylinder & Cam Sets are made by Japan Steel Alloy Metals with anti-rust, Groz - Beckert Needle number VO94.41 GO37/38 (for good fabric feel), Central Stitch bed adjustments (use of making fast texture and GSM), High Productivity approximate 250 kg per day (20s, 30s, 40s), Using electronic oil system like Pulsonic 5.2 (Oil capacity 4 litres), 136 Section Yongtai Rolling take down system. LKM Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd., works hard to enhance the utilities and productivity of circular knitting machine. LKM knitting machine has stable and countable quality, and the company has also received the Innovation Research Award. The superior productivity can produce high quality with most competitive fabric. Its machines can assist the customers in extending their market and sales, the company says. ZJC-312P Zoje Flat Knitting Machine Nowadays job workers and exporters are replacing their old technology machines with latest jacquard and transfer function machines. Zoje introduces the new models of jacquard machine with high speed technology and high productivity machines and also introduces double head 80" transfer jacquard machines for current market need. The machines are economical and highly productive. Some of the feature of ZJC-312P: Machine with single carriage double system applies digital technology to achieve transfer, tuck, pointel, intarsia without dotted line, jacquard, apparent shape, hidden shape and other regular pattern knitting functions. Can knit basic organisation (single fourplain fabric etc.) and irregular multi-colour jacquard, twist flowers weft organisation. Suitable to use pure silk, mix silk, synthetic, wool, acrylic, mixed fibre, yarn material etc. to knit ready-made cardigan, scarf, cap and accessories of cloth. Machine equipping brand-new control system, through subsection control and adjustable pulling rev to complete complex flower knitting and reduce yarn waste and improve production efficiency 70/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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90 Unity Overseas installs latest Tajima device at Ankal Knits Tajima s easy adjustment ESQ-C Sequin device of colour change type Established in 1993, the Unity Overseas Tirupur (UOT) has made its presence in the embroidery industry due to its continued commitment to provide world-class Tajima model computerised multihead embroidery machines and valued post sale service facilities. The company s multi-head embroidery machines, most prominent products, offer automatic multi-colour embroidery and are highly acclaimed by the customers throughout the world as excellent machines incomparable to others. The company recently installed the new sequin device twin type (ESQ-C) by Tajima at Ankal Knits from Tirupur. Ankal Knits specialises in all kind of custom embroidery, sequins, chenille and laser cut job works on apparel and other products. Its aim is to provide high quality output at reasonable price with world-class support. It keeps on improving the quality to meet the customers exact requirement. It has installed well equipped advanced machinery's to process the jobs to give fine quality. Balasubramanian (1st right) Manager, Unity Overseas giving details of new technology to the customers The newly installed Tajima s ESQ-C is an easy adjustment Sequin device of colour change type. After simplifying the complicated application of sequins on a large scale, quality improvement and the minimizing of adjustment time have been realised. Due to this, it has become much easier to change the type and size of sequin at will. The linked bead attachment can also be added. Other highlights of the machines are: Supported sequin size: 3mm dia to 9mm dia. Front hole eccentric sequins and sold separately: 2mm size attachment, beads device attachment. The device is only available on the TMCR-VF series. It is noteworthy that UOT established a new milestone, along its success path, in the name of Unity Institute of Embroidery Technology (UIET), in the year 2003 to provide excellent technical training to machine operators, supervisors and managers to meet the high quality and productivity demands and customer satisfaction in the embroidery industry 90/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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92 Advent acquires stake in innerwear firm Dixcy Textiles Advent International, the leading US-based private equity investor, has acquired significant stake in Dixcy Textiles Pvt. Ltd, the South Indian firm which sells leading innerwear brand Dixcy Scott. Dixcy company s Founder and Managing Director Prem Prakash Sikka will retain a stake in the company and continue as the Chairman following the completion of the transaction, said a company statement. Financial terms and other details were not disclosed. Private equity fund Advent International is in talks to buy a stake in underwear brand Dixcy Scott, and Avendus Capital Pvt. Ltd has been hired by Dixcy to find an investor. Dixcy plans to raise money from private equity funds at a valuation of `3,000-3,400 cr. Once fully invested, the fund will end up with a controlling stake in the company. This will be Advent s fourth investment in India since Tirupur-based Dixcy that sells under the flagship Dixcy Scott brand name was founded by Raghul Sikka in The company also sells a premium range of products including casual wear, such as track pants, shorts and polo T-shirts. Additionally, Dixcy has begun to expand internationally by placing its products in stores across the Middle East and Singapore. It has a network of more than 1,000 distributors, and supplies its products to over 1,20,000 retail outlets across the country. The company employs over 3,500 people and generated sales of `780 cr ($120 mn) in fiscal year Raghul Sikka, Director of Dixcy said that they look forward to working with Advent to further expand the business, following a twin-pronged strategy involving organic growth from the existing offerings and expanding internationally to newer geographies. The innerwear market in India is expected to grow at doubledigit rates over the next five years, driven by increased per capita spending and consumer demand for higher quality products, said Shweta Jalan, Managing Director and Head of India for Advent International. They see significant opportunities to create value by investing in distribution, sales and product Private equity fund Advent International is in talks to buy a stake in underwear brand Dixcy Scott, and Avendus Capital Pvt. Ltd has been hired by Dixcy to find an investor. Dixcy plans to raise money from private equity funds at a valuation of `3,000-3,400 cr. Once fully invested, the fund will end up with a controlling stake in the company. This will be Advent s fourth investment in India since innovation, and improving procurement and production efficiency, Jalan added. Globally, Advent has significant investment experience in the retail, consumer and leisure industries. Over the past 27 years, the firm has invested more than $9 bn in 71 companies worldwide. Dixcy Scott, endorsed by Bollywood star Salman Khan, competes with Page Industries Ltd, the licensee for the Jockey brand in India; Rupa and Co. Ltd, the owner of Macro Man, Frontline and Euro brands; Lux Industries Ltd, the Owner of the Lux Cozi brand; and Dollar Industries Ltd, which sells brands such as Bigboss and Club in India. The Indian underwear market is currently estimated at `24,000 cr and the segment has grown at 15 per cent over , according to a 2016 report by Intimate Apparel Association of India and Wazir Advisors. The underwear market is estimated to continue at the same growth rate over the next five years and is expected to become a `47,000 cr market, which is nearly 8 per cent of the total estimated apparel market, by 2020, said the report. The men s underwear market is currently valued at around `8,500 cr. With increasing disposable income and changing consumer attitudes towards the category, the segment is expected to maintain growth to reach `16,500 cr by /KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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98 INVISTA introduces LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder at Interfilière INVISTA, owner of the original Elastane LYCRA fibre, aims to strengthen its leadership position in the intimate apparel category with the development of a new proprietary tool: the LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder. Created to help casual bra designers select the most optimal fabric to deliver improved garment performance, was unveiled at Interfilière, a leading international fabric sourcing show for intimates, swimwear and activewear, held in Paris recently. INVISTA says it has developed the LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder in response to the current consumerdriven shift towards casual bras including wire-free bras, sports bra, bralette or bandeau. While garment design and construction remains important to bra quality and performance, INVISTA knows fabric selection is critical when it comes to deconstructed, casual bras. This innovation can help designers easily identify the best fabric construction and help add functionality to any casual bra collection, the manufacturer explains. LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder First of all, casual bra designers identify the desired comfort and support level they need: Active fabrics are meant for high support and medium comfort Everyday fabrics grant a mix between comfort and support Leisure fabrics provide high comfort and medium support This is then followed by the shaping type either natural shaping for a softer, truer silhouette, or power shaping for more defined curves. Then, they can select the appropriate certified fabric to meet their needs. Fabric goes through a rigorous testing process to ensure it meets the predetermined parameters of each IP-protected index. As a result, designers will be able to create the perfect casual bra that delivers the shape and support women need, and the comfort they want, the company explains. Producers who utilise the LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder will be able to leverage INVISTA's expertise to create new casual bra offerings. Today, women want to be the best they can be and they're tired of having to sacrifice support and shape for comfort they want it all, said Melissa Minihan, Vice President of Marketing, Intimate Apparel, at INVISTA. Casual bras are not a fad that will die out. Their widespread, global appeal represents a style evolution, and the LYCRA Bra Fabric Finder will make it easier than ever before for brands to meet this growing demand and gain market share. LYCRA Casual Bra Capsule Collection INVISTA worked with designers and leading mills around the world to create a 24-piece Casual Bra Concept Collection that While garment design and construction remains important to bra quality and performance, INVISTA knows fabric selection is critical when it comes to deconstructed, casual bras. This innovation can help designers easily identify the best fabric construction and help add functionality to any casual bra collection was on view in the LYCRA Casual Bra Café and in a pop-up display in the VIP Interfilière Lounge. Designed with fabrics featuring LYCRA fibre, each bralette in the collection demonstrated the breadth of creativity and technical prowess of the mills that produced them. INVISTA extended special thanks to: Best Pacific, Boos, Carvico, Derun, Dogi, Eurojersey, Feinjersey, Giovanni Brugnoli, Jersey Lomellina, Lauma, Liebaert, Noyon, Penn Textiles Solutions, PiaveMaitex, Tessitura Colombo Antonio, Tianhai, TVB, Wegal &Tricotel and Willy Hermann 98/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

99 Stoll s launches innovative networking concept With its new Knitelligence, Stoll, the leading manufacturer of flatknitting machines, has launched what it calls an innovative networking concept for the textile production of tomorrow. According to the Reutlingen, Germany headquartered company; knitelligence combines all of its software solutions and thus covers the entire value creation chain of flat-knitting production. From the design idea to development and manufacture Knitelligence is said to offer tailored solutions for every component. Products such as M1plus, APM, GKS, PPS, EKC, and auto create interact with each other, automate processes, and network production stages. In this way, Stoll says, customers will benefit from more consistent workflows, shorter, transparent production cycles, and an increase in quality, productivity, and, therefore, overall plant efficiency. With this contemporary IoT (Internet of Things) technology from Stoll, customers cannot only design their processes to be considerably more efficient, but can also react far more flexibly to the requirements of the market. Our aim is to always develop further for the benefit of our customers. Knitelligence is an important step in that regard, says Andreas Schellhammer, CEO of Stoll. Just as the long-standing company has represented intelligent progress and pioneering quality for over 144 years, it continues to set standards in the age of digitization, and with Knitelligence is creating substantial added value for its customers: Highly efficient flat-knitting production through the optimization and networking of individual production steps. H. Stoll AG & Co. KG, with headquarters in Reutlingen (Baden-Württemberg, Germany) is one of the world s leading manufacturers of flat knitting machines. The long-established company was founded in 1873 and has 850 employees around the world. The Stoll brand portfolio includes flat knitting machines and pattern software that are used to produce fashion and technical textiles. The company exports its products to more than 70 countries worldwide. With a network of subsidiaries, sales and service centers and numerous agencies, it offers a fully integrated service package. With innovative developments and state-ofthe-art production, Stoll makes a whole host of knitting trends possible, impressive examples of which are illustrated in the current Stoll Bike Messenger Collection, which can be viewed at KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/99

100 Filpucci marks 50 th anniversary at Pitti Filati Filpucci, an Italian leader in the manufacture of creative yarns for quality knitwear, from Tuscany, has celebrated its 50 th anniversary at the Pitti Filati trade fair, which took place in Florence recently. The company held a conference entitled Fifty years of Filpucci - History tells the future on 28 June, at Sala Riunioni Area Monumentale. The event included talks by Raffaello Napoleone, Managing Director of Pitti Immagine, Leandro Gualtieri, Filpucci President and Founder, and Federico Gualtieri, Filpucci Vice President. Re.Verso Ninety five cashmere yarns The company s main focus at the exhibition was its Ninety five collection of high-end/low impact yarns for knitwear, demonstrating the company s values of traceability and transparency, and sustainable approach to circular economy, of which it is a member. According to the company, the collection present a selection of luxury, enveloping and fluffy low-impact cashmere yarns, with technical features capable of cutting consumption, and with a watchful eye for environmental resources. Re.Verso Ninety five cashmere yarns line represents an integral part of the new Collection, now available in stock service. It features a sophisticated colour palette with mélange and mouliné shades, lending the yarns character and personality, as they are designed for knitwear featuring premium style, quality and comfort. The choice of only selected pre-consumer textile clippings sorted in a carefully way, allow offering products representing the best and most traceable one can find on the market, which have indeed aroused the interest of authoritative international brands that have chosen the Ninety five Re.Verso cashmere collection for their high quality knitwear, the company says. From Stella McCartney to Eileen Fisher, from Filippa K to Patagonia, the fashion system s big labels have opted for the regenerated yarns Re.Verso by Filpucci, thus sharing a new business philosophy: An environment-conscious and responsible approach, with does not relinquish style, but elevates it far forward style and trends. Ethical and innovative With a passion for ethical and innovative pathways, Filpucci has widened its range of smart Re.Verso products thus encompassing: The yarn Baby Camel Re.Verso, produced with Re.Verso baby camel and mixed with 50 per cent extra-fine Merino Wool, comes in two yarn counts (1:13000nm and 2:13000 nm twisted). A delicate, rich and super soft yarn preserves its natural proprieties and comes in a selection of refined shades. A blend of classicism and creativity, enhanced by the sophisticated colour palette. The new Divette item, coming in two yarn counts (1:15000nm, 2:26000 nm twisted), yet again sheds light on the pioneering The company s main focus at the exhibition was its Ninety five collection of high-end/low impact yarns for knitwear, demonstrating the company s values of traceability and transparency, and sustainable approach to circular economy, of which it is a member. attitude of a manufacturer aiming to offer soft and creative combed and twisted yarns, that are innovative and come in different degrees of thinness. Sophisticated, soft and warm yarns, made with cashmere Re.Verso fibres mixed with extra fine wools, allowing producing finer counts and functional yarns, offering a wide range of possible uses for a mix of classicism and creativity, enhanced by a sophisticated colour palette 100/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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102 Textile India 2017 Country s largest textile trade show concludes on a high note The three day mega trade fair by the Ministry of Textiles - Textiles India concluded recently in Ahmedabad. The mega trade fair received an overwhelming response with exhibitors from more than 105 countries participating. Leading fashion designers also came together to showcase collections in two fashion shows which focussed on traditional textile and domestic handloom. The event was inaugurated by Prime Minister Narendra Modi who lauded the efforts of the Ministry of Textiles in organising the largest trade fair in the country for stakeholders of the textile sector to come together and promote skill that is close to Indian culture and heritage. Speaking at the occasion, PM said, India has the most liberal investment policy for investment in the textile sector. It has abundant supply of raw material like cotton, jute, silk and man-made fibre, which provides the country a distinct advantage over other countries. The resulting higher demand of products offers a huge domestic market for textile products. Modi said that the government is focussed on the growth of the textile industry and has, in the past few years, seen healthy competition among States in attracting investment in the sector. He added that the time has come to focus on textile exports and urged States to take necessary steps to channelise resources. He further added that innovation and research are the new mantra for the much needed growth of the sector. Highlighting the growing demand for products with zero carbon footprints, Modi said that efforts should be made to promote organic products and further explore the niche markets that demand such products. He stressed that further research should be made to develop fabric from other natural sources too, as this will establish India as valued partner for countries seeking growth and investment opportunities in the textile sector. The Minister of Textiles, Smriti Irani, who was present at the inaugural function said, Textile India seeks to bring together global leaders in value chain of Indian Textile industry. We seek to understand best global practices in the textile sector. During the three years of our government, we have launched the India Handloom brand. Textile India 2017 brings together textile, tradition, and technology. It is a mega conclave that has been organised with the objective of promoting the textile sector; connecting and collaborating with all stakeholders and helping in the realisation of the Prime Minister s dream of giving the sector a push for further growth and aligning it with the Make in India campaign. In the presence of OP Kohli, Governor of Gujarat; Vijay Rupani, Chief Minister of Gujarat said that Gujarat is the textile capital of India and the Summit has received more strength through the support received from States such as Andhra Pradesh and Assam. Modi had launched the textile policy in Gujarat in 2012 to provide financial and physical support to the sector, as a result of which more than 28 textile parks have been established in the State. In last four years, 29,500 cr has been invested in the sector in the State. The Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh, Chandrababu Naidu was also present at the inauguration. Among others Richard Heald, CEO, UKIBC and David Cummings, President and CEO of US Polo Assn. participated in the inaugural programme, where they expressed their interest in collaborating with India and sharing 102/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

103 technologies to help India create new avenues for further growth of the textile sector on a global scale. India & South Korea: Building better ties in the textile Industry The first-day saw the country session between India and South Korea. Anant Kumar Singh, Secretary MoT, Government of India, was the Chief Guest for this session and he spoke about how both countries could build better ties. He also talked about how the Textile Ministry and the Government of India will provide the best infrastructure facilities to all MNCs interested in investing in India. Bue-Heung Kim, the Director of the Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), thanked the Hon ble Prime Minister Narendra Modi and Chief Minister Vijay Rupani for organising this unique event. He expressed hope for better trade relations between India and South Korea. Mamta Verma, Industries Commissioner, Government of Gujarat was also present for the event and she talked about how Gujarat today has become a leader in the textile industry. Assam and Andhra Partner with Ministry of Textiles Andhra Pradesh in partnership with the Ministry of Textiles for the mega trade fair held a conference to share perspective on its potential in promoting the textile sector. Andhra Pradesh CM Chandrababu Naidu spoke about the importance of Jute and how the industry has helped in rural employment at Textiles India During the session, he said about how the Andhra Government held a number of seminars on the various measures to develop the textile industry in Andhra Pradesh and invested over `5,000 cr into the industry. Naidu stated that this has led to employment figures of over 16,000 for AP, especially as it currently has some of the best mills in the country. Naidu further added that with the success of countries like Pakistan, Bangladesh and Thailand have had in recent years in the textile industry and how the industry is the 2nd largest employer in many States after agriculture, developing it will be important for the future of our country. The speakers for this session included Union Minister of Textiles, Smriti Irani and Kollu Ravindra, Minister of Textiles, Andhra Pradesh. The North Eastern State of Assam is also a leading partner in this one-of-its-kind fair and is known for their traditional handloom and textile industry. Roundtable discussions Many technical sessions round tables were held at the Helipad Groundsvenue alongside the Textiles India Exhibition. These round table discussions were held to understand the challenges and opportunities in diverse segments of the textile sector. Trends in Indian cotton Round table discussions were held to comprehend the prevailing and expected trends in the cotton sector. The panelist discussed ways to popularise the aspects of environmental friendly cotton based textiles. The key agenda that were discussed included the threats that cotton sector faces from other fibres, improving the per hectare yields of cotton and reducing contamination. Cotton sector scenario in the country was also discussed where it was pointed out that India produces very good quality of cotton, but is sold in discounted price because of certain contaminations therefore there is a need to reduce the level of contaminations. Only about 2.5 per cent of cotton is tested as compared to the other countries. It was also noted that cotton industries should understand the requirements and pay attention in the downstream process, towards the finishing levels. It was also noted that cotton is the most widespread profitable nonfood crop in the world. India's export of raw cotton has increased in significant years, while the import has decreased. There are about 10 mn farmers who produce cotton in India. There are 18 types of soil where cotton can be cultivated. In the last 16 years the area of cotton production doubled. Gujarat has the highest production in India, following Andhra Pradesh and Haryana. The panelist for the roundtable were Andrew Macdonald, Consultant, AMCON Consulting, Sao Paulo, Brazil and representing Brazilian Cotton Growers Association; Dr. MV Venugopalan, Principal Scientist, Central Institute for Cotton Research; Christian Schindler, Director General, International Textile Manufacturers Federation; PR Roy, Chairman - Diagonal Consulting (India). Siddhartha Rajagopal, ED, from TEXPROCIL moderated the roundtable session. King Cotton Regaining the edge in global market A round table discussion was held on how cotton can regain edge in the global market, where it noted that Cotton consumption in India has increased from per cent and total world consumption is per cent. India is the largest cotton producing country and second largest consuming country. Cotton and cotton textile account for one third foreign exchange revenue for India. Already there is a robust cotton value chain providing employment to many. It was also noted that by adopting the Bt. Cotton in 2002 the yield level has significantly improved but has stagnated in the last five years. This stagnation in yield level can be broken by using biotech, better irrigationand mechanization. For regain the edge in cotton sector it was noted KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/103

104 that grouping of cotton cultivars based on quality is required which would then permit the cultivars to grown cotton based on economic regions. It was also expressed that group farming concept for uniform collection of cotton would also be helpful to regain the edge via reducing the strain on the logistics side of the cotton value chain. Dr. CD Mayee, Founder President, South-Asia Biotechnology Centre; Rajeev Baruah, Country Director, Better Cotton Initiative; IJ Dhuria, Director (Materials), Vardhaman Textiles Ltd.; Rebecca Pandolph, Statistician, International Cotton Advisory Committee took part in the panel discussion. The session was moderated by Suresh Kotak, Chairman Indian Society for Cotton Development. Made Up Success Story Globally the US and the EU are the leading importers of bed linen. World Trade in Made Ups is stagnant and has marginally decline from $64 bn in 2014 to $59 bn in India's export share of made-ups is also flat at $4.6 bn. India's share in global trade in made ups is also stagnant at 7.8 per cent. India and China are the key players as far as home textiles are concerned. India has tremendous potential to grow made up business both domestically and internationally. Domestic markets offer greater opportunities for growth in view of increasing in purchasing power, change in lifestyle, increase in nuclear families, aspiration young population. In export market focus is mainly on Europe, USA, and to some extent of Canada and Australia. China occupies 43 per cent of the world share and they are slowing down offering greater opportunity to India. India will have to increase the basket of products in the Made Up segment. India can take full advantage of its strength in raw materials, skilled manpower, design and innovations. The roundtable discussion included KV Srinivasan, MD Sree Narasimha Textiles Pvt. Ltd.; Pradeep Mukherjee, Senior Consultant with Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd.; Rajesh Mahajan, Founder of Maspar Brand in India. Prem Malik, Vice- Chairman NSL Textiles Ltd. moderated the session. Productivity and marketing constrains in wool sector A discussion was held with the agenda to understand the productivity and marketing constraints in wool sector. India is the 7th largest producer of wool and contributes 1.8 per cent to the total world production. The Indian wool industry is primarily dependent on imported raw material. The State of Rajasthan is the biggest producer of wool contributing 44 per cent of the total wool produced in the country. It was noted that one the primary constraints of the wool sector is the pre loom and post loom facilities available to this sector which are inadequate and outdated. It was also noted that there is a lack of opportunity for development of skill in the woolen sector, there is a major shortage of trained workforce to undertake efficient production. About 12 lakh people in India are involved in sheep breading and rearing for the wool sector. Wool production in India is primarily a rural unorganised sector where the producers are unaware of modern techniques of wool extraction. There is also an urgent need to make the wool producers aware of the qualitative as well as monetary aspect so that the producers can get better returns for their produce. The panelist for the session were Peta Slack-Smith, AWI, Sydney; Dr AM Mir, MD, Cashmere Marketing Agencies; Mridula Jain, Chairperson, Shawl Club of India and MD Shingora Textiles Ltd.; Vikas Mohatta, MD, Felt & Technical Textiles, Jaipur. The roundtable was moderated by Ravikant Kapur, Chairman, Grentex & Co. Pvt. Ltd. Waterless textile processing and 3D printing Round table discussion was conducted to understand the utility if the innovation of waterless textile processing and 3D printing to reduce the water consumption in the textile industry. Water is increasingly becoming a scarce resource across the world. Today most industrial sectors including textile are facing crisis due to decreasing availability of water for processing and production. Textile sector consumes a huge amount of water starting from the production of raw material phase to the finished product and packaging phase. There is an urgent need to reduce this dependence and shifting to better and efficient of manner of production. 3D printing technology has the potential to revolutionise the textile industry. The speakers of the session included Rene Van Berkel, Representative - Regional Office India (UNIDO); Dr. Manisha Mathur, Deputy Director (SASMIRA); Dr. JLV Prasad, Sanganer Enviro Project Development. Prof. Asim Tiwari, IIT Bombay Dept. of Mechanical Engg. was the moderator of the round table. Zero Liquid Discharge System (ZLD) Effluent discharge from textile sector is one of the biggest environmental polluters in the world. There is an urgent need to drastically cut down this source of pollution. To discuss ways of developing a system of zero liquid discharge from textile sector a round table discussion was organised. It was noted that the treatment of waste water is an expensive technology and cost of setting up of water treatment plant must be reduced. Stricter policy norms and monitoring of polluting units will help in tackling the issue of pollution to a great extent. Textile sector is mostly dominated by MSME sector, these would require 104/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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106 Government subsidy or interventions to set up zero liquid discharge systems. Government is formulating a policy especially for textile industry to help and guide the MSMEs to implement zero discharge system. Today, Zero Liquid discharge is an expensive technology there is an urgent need in countries like India to develop/invent cheaper technology. For India developing a Zero Liquid Discharge System is a huge technoeconomic challenge. Zero Liquid Discharge System will ensure that waste water complete utilisation of water. About 80 per cent to 85 per cent water can be reutilised for processing. The panelist for the round table included Judith Buchmaier, Dy Head, AEE; Dr. Madhusudanan, Central Pollution Control Board; Dr Rajah Vijaykumar, Scientist; Dr Anil Misra, National Project Manager, UNIDO. Sajid Hussain, Chief Operating Officer, TWIC moderated the round table. Quality Assurance and Building Market Linkages are keys to promoting textile industry On the side-lines of mega trade fair, several discussion panels were held to deliberate on opportunities that could be explored to create market linkages with retail chains, ensuring branding and quality assurance and building the textile value chain to further promote the textile industry in the country. Session 1: Market Linkages with Retail Chains Creating market linkages with domestic and international retail chain is essential for further providing momentum to the growth of the textile industry in the country. India is emerging as a favourable destination for Latin American countries as they want to reduce their dependence on Chinese markets for imports and are looking towards diversifying their markets, said R Vishwanathan, Marketing Consultant, Former Indian Ambassador, LAC Consultant, Former Indian Ambassador, LAC. Statistics indicate that the Indian textile export to Latin American countries in the last financial year were higher than India s exports to a lot of other countries such as Canada, Russia and Central Asian countries. Indian exports to Mexico were $3.5 bn last year, more than to Thailand ($3.1 bn), Russia ($1.9 bn) and Egypt ($2 bn). Vishwanathan also said that with increasing opportunities Indian producers have also started exported handcrafts garments etc. to the European Union, USA and many more nations through Amazon. Amazon has eliminated middlemen, which has led to the growth of Indian producers to a large extent. India is third largest supplier of textiles of Latin American nations and fourth largest for readymade garments. In the past year, there was an import of textile worth $30 bn of imported textile from India, he further added.mark Jarvis, MD WtiN; Toshinorie Haruna, AGM, Textile Division; Sumitomo Corporation, Japan and Rahul Mehta, President CMAI were also present at the discussion. Session 2: Branding and quality assurance The government of India has already taken initiatives to improve branding efforts within the textile industry. India is the second largest employer of workers in the textile industry in the world. Representatives from various sectors of the industry met together to discuss way forward in branding and quality assurance and hence improve its growth curve. Gaurav Mahajan, President (Apparel), Raymond Group said that the brand holds the Guinness book of world records to create the finest fabric in the world (11.4 micron wool). Branding is nothing but quality assurance and that a brand is all about functionality. Hence it is important that availability, accessibility and assurance of quality are made priorities and worked up, he said. Madhura Dutta, Executive Director, All India Artisan and Crafts Workers Welfare Association (AIACA) said that the there is a mismatch of expectations between buyers and retailers regarding products and hence it is essential to educate buyers. Manish Kumar, Global Executive Vice President, Geo Chem Laboratories Group was also present at the panel discussion. Optimal usage of fibre needed for improving textile market demand Indian and international delegates met on the sidelines of the mega trade fair to discuss and deliberate on ways of optimal utilisation of Indian grown fibre and promotion of domestically produced textile, particularly silk and jute. Potential of silk by product for Commercial use and R&D Silk is one of the most elegant fibres and is produced in various varieties in the country. Panellists Prof. Deepti Guha, Department of Textile Technology IIT, New Delhi; Dr Li Long Phd., Standing Vice President Chinese Society of Sericulture Science; SK Som, Director, Quality Assurance & Technical Services, Raymong Ltd.; Dr Subhas V Naik, Director, Central Silk Technology Research Institute and Dr RK Mishra, Director, CSB, Moderator discussed the possibilities that could be explored to increase optimal utilisation of silk; reduce production wastage and incorporate technology and research insights to develop new strains of fabric wherein silk can be infused with other fabrics such as wool. Sustainability of Jute and Allied Natural Fibres Speaking at a conference on Sustainability of Jute and Allied Natural Fibres, AK Lohia, Managing Director, Alliance Mills said that India and Bangladesh together produce about 3 mn tonnes and hence there is huge market potential. There is need for technical development in the sector which can promote the primary agenda of promoting farm to factory and factory to fashion agenda of Prime Minister Narendra Modi. 106/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

107 Research in innovative use of jute including nonwovens and composites Foreign delegates participated in a conference to deliberate avenues that can be explored to include research and development to ensure optimal usage of jute and also develop new varieties of fabric using jute along with other fibres. Dr. Rajesh Anandjiwala, Chief Researcher, CSIR, Port Elizabeth, South Africa said that there are various technologies that can be used for improving the quality of fabric created from jute. Among others Dr. M Zimniewska, Institute of Natural Fibres, Poland; DC Baheti, Managing Director, Gloster Ltd; Fort Gloster, Bauria and Dr.Sabu Thomas, Professor, Mahatma Gandhi University Kerala, Moderator were also present at the conference. Karnataka a New Emerging Hub for Textile Investments in India Karnataka was one of the many States in focus during the State sessions on Day 2. Today, Karnantaka is one of India s most successful States in the field of textiles a fact which was reiterated by the Chief Guest for this session, Karnataka s Minister for Textiles Rudrappa Manappa Lamani. During the event he talked about how the industry employed over 6 Lakh people in his State and his State hosted some of the very biggest textile majors in the country, such as Raymond, ETCO, Arvind etc. He stated that Karnataka s success was based on having skilled manpower, a proactive government, good infrastructure and a The show presented a compelling story of the textiles of India, focusing on innovations in craft and design. It was the largest curated presentation of Indian textiles on the runway that unfolded the story of growth and development of the Indian textiles sector and its transformation to become a global power. sound industrial policy for the textile industry in place. Gopal Krishna Hegde, CFO, Shahi Exports, touched upon another reason for Karnataka s success which is its Single window clearance system. Hegde spoke about how the system had helped many companies, including his own obtain clearances for their projects in record time and helped expand their operations rapidly throughout the State. Also present at the session was A Madhukumar Reddy, Joint Secretary, from the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. During the session he stated that the aim of the Government of India, through this event was to connect all of India s states to the global market. He talked about how there are over 106 countries that participating in this event and that the possibilities for cooperation between States and other countries in the field of textiles are limitless KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/107

108 India International Garment Fair Gets encouraging response at new venue The 59th edition of India International Garment Fair (IIGF) was held at Gandhinagar in Gujarat from 29th June -2nd July, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) led all councils from the front by garnering overwhelming participation in the event - with almost 350 participant exporters and registration of more than 450 buying agents and buyers from across the world. Unlike the previous editions, IIGF had a shift in location and became the part of the three-day exclusive mega event, Textiles India 2017."India is one of the strongest raw material manufacturers and holds huge promise of a vivacious fashion industry today. We are conscientiously working to improve standards throughout the value chain and adhere to sustainability strategies consistently, as we make in India. India is now prepared to take up newer and larger roles!"commented Ashok G Rajani, Chairman, AEPC. So, the fair was held concurrently with this show, which covered the entire textile supply chain, as The exhibition centre there was world-class. Celebrating 30 years of its initiation, IIGF is the biggest sourcing event for Indian apparel exporters which was taking place in New Delhi for the last three decades. With a view to strengthen the link of garment buyers with India, the exhibition welcomed the buyer of garments (International chain stores/buyers/sourcing heads responsible for clothing buying) to the IIGF. Like always, AEPC hosted their export partners in halls 5 and 6, which eventually rose up to the occasion to become the hub for business and networking over the three days. Visitors from the world over, including countries like Brazil, Mexico, and Kenya, etc. thronged the venue to explore the best of Indian apparels in this stellar event. AEPC has been assisting the apparel industry, on the export front, since It has been actively working with both the government and the industry to bring in reforms and revolutionize the apparel industry as a whole. In continuation of its efforts to bring the apparel industry into prominence, based on the theme Design & Stitch to Sustain - All About Becoming Sustainable, AEPC worked out theme pavilions in halls 5 & 6 of the Textiles India 2017 mega event. Highlighting their efforts to bring about a change in the industry by committing to zero wastage, AEPC designed their pavilions, positioned at a prominent side of the hall with everything ecofriendly. The colours and the theme of the pavilions reflected a back to roots tone and imbibed an earthy spirit that AEPC explored to the garments and principles on display at the stall. The look of the stalls presented a very open structure that could be entered from almost every dimension. This, in return, preserved the sustainable motif and actually presented a circular pattern of use-reuse-sustain. Exploring the basics of sustainability and laying out the path for the industry, AEPC explained the simple steps to sustainability through versatile garment displays and panels that delved on three steps: Zero wastage during the manufacturing process, involving less process during production and finally stitching multi-tasking garments, which can be worn in various ways. AEPC is a trade body for the promotion and facilitation of garment manufacturing and their exports. AEPC has more than 8,000 members who contribute significantly in India s total garment exports of $16.83 bn each year. The IIGF has, over the years, established itself as one of the largest and most popular platforms in Asia where overseas garment buyers can source and forge a business relationship with India s finest in the apparel and fashion accessories domain 108/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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110 YiwuTex 2017 focuses on Smart Textile Production The 18th China Yiwu International Exhibition on Textile Machinery (YiwuTex 2017) successfully concluded on June 15, 2017 at Yiwu International Expo Centre, Zhejiang, PR China. The 3-day show covered an exhibition area of over 13,200 sqm and accommodated more than 160 exhibitors showcasing 443 pieces of professional equipment on knitting, hosiery, sewing, garment and digital printing. YiwuTex 2017 attracted 8,912 professional buyers from 38 countries and regions, overseas visitors were from India, Russia, South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Iran and Uzbekistan, etc. Exhibitors showcased high-end smart production technologies YiwuTex 2017 featured 3 theme zones, "Functional Knitting Machinery Zone", "Smart Apparel Machinery Zone" and "Digital Printing Machinery Zone. Besides health textile, the exhibition also focused on introducing intelligent production, smart management, as well as advanced automatic technologies and equipment, with the aim to help industry players with their transition from traditional production to smart production. Exhibitors were satisfied with the results of participating at the fair. Tiziano Sandonini, VP Product of Santoni (Shanghai) Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. said, "Seamless knitting market is growing rapidly these years and some of the Zhejiang Province manufacturers have fully entered the seamless knitting field due to the flexibility on knitting design and application. Santoni (Shanghai) showcase the latest seamless knitting machinery and we are satisfied with the overall result of the exhibition!" ZhengXu, General Manager of Shanghai Yusen Trading Co. Ltd. said that this is their first time joining YiwuTex. "Compared with some other large scale textile machinery exhibitions, we believe that YiwuTex is relatively more specialised, and visitors are more concentrated. The forums of the show are really helpful for information exchange and finding new materials partners. We hope that such concurrent activities could be held again." Pu Tang, General Manager of Yiwu Taolin Sewing Equipment Co. Ltd. said, "We participate in YiwuTex every year as it is a suitable platform to promote our products and now we are much more experienced in exhibiting at the fairs. The fair is also beneficial to our customers, they can come and gain a full knowledge of the equipment and its function before they place any order. These years, the entire Yiwu sewing equipment market is getting more and more active by joining the show." Active Participation from over 70 Associations and Enterprises The show has raised many interests from industry players. Over 20 industry associations and more than 50 famous enterprises formed delegations visited, they are: Zhejiang Seamless Weaving Industry Association, China Textile Commerce Association Undergarment Committee, Dongyang Knitting Industry Association, Dongyang Garment Industry Association, Langsha Group, Zhejiang Mengna Knitting Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Socks Co., Ltd. and Yiwu Yajuan Sock Industry Co.,Ltd. Huang Bida, Secretary-General of Pujiang Knitting & Dyeing Industry Association said, "Our member companies have purchased cutting machines from past exhibitions. This time we are more interested in sewing equipment, overlock machines and automatic equipment. We found relevant equipment and will consider buying them." Jin Yiting, Secretary-General of Haining Socks Association said, "Many of our members produce socks and hosiery so their main focus was the socks and hosiery machinery. They also looked for some sewing equipment, and we actually found one at YiwuTex that won many praises from our members. We are considering to purchase." 110/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

111 Qi Chengjian, President of Zhuji E-commerce and Hosiery Association said, "We ordered setting machines in the last edition. This year we mainly look for new sock and hosiery making machines as well as wrap knitting machinery. Some members purchased several automatic sock flipping machines on-site, and we wish to see more sock-making machinery for more business opportunities." Chen Shuiyan, Head of R&D of Rongli Garments Co., Ltd. said, "I am interested in one of the machine on-site. Automation is getting popular nowadays and it is the trend to replace human workforce with machines, so I am more interested in machinery with high automation." Concurrent events explored industry trends To help industry players understand the latest market trend, the organizer planned a series of on-site seminars, covering "The Commonly-used Compression Stockings in China and the Newest Pressure Testing Standard, "High-end Customized Single Needle Socks Machine Made in Italy, "DRYARN, the Unique Fibre for Every Sport" and "Running of the Smart Production Line, where experts analysed problems that enterprises may encounter and provided possible solutions. The Knitwear Display Zone also received wide acclaim for offering buyers a rewarding experience to understand the applications of the latest knitting techniques, fabric technologies and printing patterns KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/111

112 HanesBrands witnesses significant growth in net income HanesBrands, a leading marketer of everyday basic apparel under world-class brands, has announced a 34.6 per cent increase in net income for the second-quarter 2017, which rose to $172,532 in line with company guidance. For the second quarter ended 1 July 2017, net sales of $1.65 bn increased by 12 per cent, primarily from acquisition contributions. On a GAAP basis, second-quarter operating profit of $229 mn increased by 3 per cent and diluted EPS of $0.47 increased by 38 per cent. Year-todate net cash from operations was $34 mn, a $163 mn improvement versus a year ago. We continued our strong start to 2017 in the second quarter, consistent with our guidance, said Hanes CEO Gerald W Evans Jr. Organic sales trends continued to improve sequentially, acquisitions are contributing value as expected, and our cashflow efforts, including disciplined inventory management, are generating strong results. Our team is doing a great job executing our Sell More, Spend Less, Generate Cash strategies and laying the foundation for taking our performance to the next level in the years to come through our Project Booster initiative. We are planning for the future while executing in the present. Acquisitions deliver growth Acquisitions completed in 2016, primarily Champion Europe and Hanes Australasia, contributed approximately $220 mn in net sales in the second quarter. Organic sales decreased by 3 per cent, primarily as a result of the expected lower sales in innerwear and domestic manage-for-cash businesses as well as an unexpected timing shift of sports apparel sales to the third quarter. However, organic sales trends continued to improve from previous sequential quarters. Second-quarter sales in the online channel globally increased by around 25 per cent and represented approximately 9 per cent of total sales. Global Champion sales increased by 7 per cent in the second quarter on a pro forma basis. Business segment highlights Year-over-year innerwear segment sales decreased by less than 3 per cent in the second quarter, compared with lower sales of 6 per cent in the first quarter 2017 and 8 per cent in the fourth quarter There was sequential improvement for both the basics and intimates businesses. Operating profit declined by 8 per cent as a result of lower sales and Project Booster expenses. Activewear sales increased by 1 per cent. Acquisition benefits and sales growth for Hanes retail and the online channel were partially offset by the later-than-expected licensed sports apparel shipments and the effect of retailer bankruptcies. Operating profit decreased by 10 per cent. Second-quarter international segment sales increased by 76 per cent as a result of acquisitions and strong results in Asia, while operating profit increased by 152 per cent, benefiting from European acquisition synergies financial guidance Hanes has reaffirmed its full-year guidance for 2017 and issued third-quarter guidance for select performance measures. For 2017, the company expects net sales of $6.45 bn to $6.55 bn, GAAP operating profit of $845 mn to $895 mn, adjusted operating profit excluding actions of $935 mn to $975 mn, GAAP EPS for continuing operations of $1.70 to $1.82, adjusted EPS for continuing operations excluding actions of $1.93 to $2.03, and record net cash from operations of $625 mn to $725 mn. Compared with 2016 results, the midpoint of 2017 guidance represents net sales growth of 8 per cent, GAAP operating profit growth of 12 per cent, adjusted operating profit growth of 5 per cent, GAAP EPS growth from continuing operations of 26 per cent, adjusted EPS growth from continuing operations of 7 per cent, and operating cash flow growth of 11 per cent 112/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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114 Shanghai debut for Shima s one-stop knitwear solution For the first time, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will play host to one of the industry s leading innovators Shima Seiki of Wakayama, Japan. This October, the show plays host to some of the industry s leading innovators, including DuPont, Eastman Chemical, FENC, Hyosung, Invista, Lenzing, Nilit, The Chemours Company, Toray and Unifi. With over 2,000 worldwide patents and patents pending, and 30 years of research experience in knitting technology, the computerised knitting machine manufacturer will exhibit at the fair alongside a number of its partners including yarn suppliers and knitwear manufacturers, providing a one-stop knitwear solution under the theme Future Knitwear. WHOLEGARMENT manufacturing Shima Seiki is well known for its WHOLEGARMENT manufacturing technology where an entire knitted garment is produced on the knitting machine without the need for linking or sewing afterward but it will be its SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system, the latest version of which will be on display at Intertextile Shanghai, which makes this theme highly appropriate, organisers explain. The system integrates production into one workflow, from yarn development, product planning and design to production and even sales promotion. One key feature is its Virtual Sampling function, which is designed to improve the design and evaluation process, and minimise the time, cost and material usage during the sample-making process. The overall effect of this system can be to shorten the production cycle to such an extent that mass-customisation of garments can be achieved. Expanded beyond denim show A number of exhibitors within this edition s Beyond Denim will be showcasing their proprietary efforts to drive the industry towards a more eco-friendly future, including Turkey s Orta Anadolu and Kipas Denim, and Soorty Enterprises from Pakistan. The larger Beyond Denim this year will include around 190 overseas and Chinese exhibitors, as well as an INVISTA Pavilion and Forum highlighting exhibitors products. Orta Anadolu will showcase its AW 18/19 collection under the theme Jeans Matter. Denim has and always will have a special handprint on culture. In times of social change, Jeans Matter, the company explained. Orta has launched a new concept it calls Indigo Flow which combines the Reserve Flow and Clean Flow processes for a more eco-friendly indigo dyeing process. Reserve Flow can reduce water usage by up to 70 per cent through savings at the water feeding and finishing stages, while energy is saved by not requiring heat during the fixing process. The Clean Flow process is unique to Orta as it utilises an organic reducing agent which is said to lead to cleaner waste water, no salt formation and less chemical usage. Shima Seiki is well known for its WHOLEGARMENT manufacturing technology where an entire knitted garment is produced on the knitting machine without the need for linking or sewing afterward but it will be its SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system, the latest version of which will be on display at Intertextile Shanghai, which makes this theme highly appropriate, organisers explain. Like Orta, Kipas Denim has developed its own technology to address the shortcomings during denim fabric production. The Conservablue technology aims to reduce the environmental impact of the dyeing process. Conventionally made jeans pass through six rinsing overflow boxes before and after the indigo dye boxes, which Conservablue eliminates altogether leading to water, waste water, electricity and dyestuff savings. As with Kipas Denim, Soorty Enterprises emphasises its ecofriendly efforts along the entire production chain, from cotton sourcing to finishing. The company s new Zero Water Blue concept promises water savings of up to 90 per cent by eliminating water usage at the rope dyeing stage, and reducing it at the finishing stage by merging the traditional de-sizing and mercerisation steps into one relaxing step. This new step, along with eliminating water usage at the final sanforisation stage, not only saves water overall but also eliminates caustic and acid use during this stage as well, the company reports 114/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

115 Nike s launches lightweight Flyknit sports bra Leading sportswear brand Nike has de veloped a new performance bra, based on the company s famous Flyknit construction technology, which helps hold shape of the bra while facilitating precise zones of greater or less support and breathability. According the manufacturer, the technology enables designers to engineer every stitch for specific performance benefits. Nike Flyknit allows us to be incredibly precise in a single layer, said Janett Nichol, VP of Apparel Innovation, Nike. The right sports bra can be the difference between a kickass workout and no workout at all. It is the most important piece of apparel for the active woman a good one enables women to play sports, and sports can give women confidence in life, said Janett Nichol. The Nike Women design team asked athletes about what makes a good bra. The response was unanimous, with women wanting a bra that provides total support for a variety of activities and one that keeps them cool and dry without sacrificing comfort. They also want it to look as good as it feels, the company reports. Nike Flyknit, which debuted at the 2012 London games with the Nike Flyknit Racer, is a digitally engineered knitting process best known for its role in lightweight, formfitting and virtually seamless shoe uppers. Today, the technology is used in Nike footwear across sport, from the Nike Zoom Fearless Flyknit women s training shoe to Kevin Durant s signature Nike KD10. The bra is constructed with an ultra-soft nylon-spandex yarn that form fits to your body, using two single-layer panels that are assembled for a seamless feel. This Flyknit process also enabled designers to combine encapsulation (which have separate cups for each breast) with compression (which holds the breasts close to the body), offering the shape, support and comfort without the addition of components like wires, pads, stabilizers and elastics. The result is a significant reduction in materials and seams: The Nike FE/NOM Flyknit Bra has two panels and a binding (other high-support Nike bras can have up to 41 pieces and 22 seams) and is 30 per cent lighter than any other bra in Nike s line. The Nike FE/NOM Flyknit Bra is a new generation of bra," said Rendone. It offers all of the support, strength and comfort of traditional high-support bras even without all of the components typical to those styles, and it's fullcoverage for total confidence during any activity, from running to high-intensity training, boxing to spin, Pilates and yoga. Besides, Nike is launching three other new bras this season for 30 total styles its most expansive bra collection to date. Sizing will span from 32 A to 38 E, and will offer light-, medium- and high-support options KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017/115

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118 SPINEXPO Shanghai to have new circular knits zone For its 30th session, SPINEXPO Shanghai has partnered with fibre producers INVISTA and Aquafil to experiment further within the active fashion trend area by looking at existing and future ways of making. Using fibres and materials inspired by the technicality of the garments of tomorrow, Studio Eva X Carola presents The Beauty of Making. The Beauty of Making is a story of influence, how we learn, create, and cocreate, organisers report. The trend area will show products made in partnership with the two fibre manufacturers, with technical explanation of the research & development performed by our stylists, with the help of Diyang Merino Textile, Joinfair International, and the technicians from Santoni Shanghai. Surrounding this area and the stand of the show activewear trend area partner Santoni, a new zone for circular knitting has been created, with a selection of over 15 companies all specialised in technical, functional and performance yarns. The show will take place from August at the World Expo Convention & Exhibition Centre Pudong, Shanghai, featuring the latest yarn, fibre, knitwear, knitted fabric and activewear collections. New knitting methods Function, texture, form and style have been the key ingredients behind every product developed this season by the SPINEXPO team, say organisers. Through constantly exploring, researching and testing new knitting methods on Santoni Shanghai's seamless and circular knitting machines we take our collections to a new level and offer innovation in textiles and performance wear that has gone through the most stringent industry tests to confirm the final results. Coolmax brand technology INVISTA is introducing the latest Coolmax brand technology solutions at the show, backed by distinctive new consumeroriented branding that can be used across a broad product range covering a wide The trend area will show products made in partnership with the two fibre manufacturers, with technical explanation of the research & development performed by stylists, with the help of Diyang Merino Textile, Joinfair International, and the technicians from Santoni Shanghai. variety of fabric applications. Under the name embrace the heat, fabrics made with Coolmax can be tailored to meet the end user s performance needs and are certified to ensure class-leading performance regardless of the supply source, the company reports. Engineered for everyday comfort and performance, fabrics made with Coolmax Core technology are said to transport moisture away from the body to keep the wearer cool and dry, helping to optimise performance. Recommended end-uses include; socks, intimate apparel, readyto-wear shirting, and sportswear tops. Dryarn innovative microfibre Dryarn the Feel Good microfibre by Aquafil is an innovative microfibre that is said to be one of the lightest fibres in the world, water-repellent, breathable, bacteriostatic and dermatologically tested. According to the manufacturer, Dryarn is ideal for a wide range of uses, such as first and second layers of clothing, fashion and sportswear. Dryarn performs best when used in its purest form or in high percentages blended with other raw materials, the company reports. It can prevent the absorption of moistureand is highly permeable for water vapour. This can give the fibre exceptional breathability: perspiration evaporates quickly without soaking the fabric, thus ensuring that the skin is always dry. Diyangmerino textile Diyang Merino Textile, a high-quality knitter with dyeing and finishing capabilities, is based in Jiaxin, China, and will present its latest fabric technology at the fair. The company specialises in supplying of fixne micron merino wool for circular knitting to more than 100 industry customers worldwide, with a focus on outdoors and sportswear markets. The company s patented technology, Hydro-duct, Wooloft, and Merino Ultimate, are said to enhance the unique property of merino wool for outdoor sporting activities 118/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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120 Forthcoming trade events INTERNATIONAL DOMESTIC TEXTECH BANGLADESH August, 2017 Venue: International Convention City, Bashundhara, Dhaka-Bangladesh Organizer: CEMS-Global Tel: INTL YARN & FABRIC SHOW August, 2017 Venue: International Convention City, Bashundara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: CEMS-Global Tel: DYE+CHEM BANGLADESH INTL. EXPO August, 2017 Venue: Intl. Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: CEMS Limited Tel: MUNICH FABRIC START September, 2017 Venue: Munich, Germany Organzier: Messe München GmbH Tel: 49 (89) PREMIERE VISION-FRANCE September, 2017 Venue: Parc des expositions Paris Nord Villepinte, Villepinte, France Organizer: Premiere Vision Tel: +33 (0) CISMA September, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New Intl. Expo, China Organizer: China Sewing Machinery Association Tel: TRADEXPO PARIS September, 2017 Venue: Boutique Le Bourget Paris, Paris, France Organizer: GL Events Exhibition Co. Ltd Tel: PREMIERE VISION-FRANCE September, 2017 Venue: Parc des expositions Paris Nord Villepinte, Villepinte, France Organizer: Premiere Vision Tel: +33 (0) CISMA September, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New Intl. Expo, China Organizer: CSMA Tel: INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS October, 2017 Venue: National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai, China Organizer: Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. Tel: CHINA YIWU INTERNATIONAL COMMODITIES FAIR October, 2017 Venue: Yiwu Intl Expo Center, Zhejiang, China Organizer: Yiwu China Commodity City Exhibition Co.,Ltd. Tel: / BANGLADESH DENIM EXPO November, 2017 Venue: International Convention City, Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Bangladesh Denim Expo Tel: GTMAT November, 2017 Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Kites Intl. Trade & Exhibitions P. Ltd. Tel: , CHINA CLOTHING & TEXTILES EXPO November, 2016 Venue: Melbourne Exhibition Centre, Australia Organizer: Minstar Enterprises P. Ltd. Tel: MODA PRIMA November, 2017 Venue: Stazione Leopolda, Florence, Italy Organizer: Pitti Immagine Tel: VIETNAM INTL. TEXTILE PRINTING INDUSTRIAL TECHNOLOGY EXPO 29 November 02 December, 2017 Venue: Ho Chi Minh City Intl. Exhibition Center, Vietnam Organizer: Hongkong Allallinfo Media Group Ltd Tel: YARN & FABRICS SOURCING FAIR January, 2018 Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Ask Trade & Exhibitions P. Ltd. Tel: , GARMENTECH BANGLADESH January, 2018 Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Organizer: Zakaria Trade & Fair Intl. Tel: , EAST CHINA FAIR March, 2018 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China Organizer: Shanghai International Trade Promotion Co., Ltd. Tel: KNIT SHOW August, 2017 Venue: Velan Hotel Fair Ground, Tirupur Organizer: Knit Show Trade Exposition / City Leaves Tel: , FASHIONISTA LIFESTYLE EXHIBITION August, 2017 Venue: Hotel Rama International, R-3, Chilkalthana, Aurangabad, Maharashtra, India Organizer: Fashionista Tel: GTE - GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO - AHMEDABAD August, 2017 Venue: Ahmedabad, India Organizer: Garment Technology Expo Tel: , / TECHTEXTIL INDIA September, 2017 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (East), Mumbai Organizer: Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs (I) P. Ltd. Tel: TEXINDIA (TEXTILE SOURCING FAIR) September, 2017 Venue: IKF complex, Tirupur, India Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: / YARNEX (INDIA INTL. YARN EXHIBITION TIRUPUR) September, 2017 Venue: IKF complex, Tirupur, India Organizer: SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: / VASTRA September, 2017 Venue: Jaipur Exhibition & Convention Centre, Jaipur, India Organizer: FICCI Tel.: INDIA KNIT FAIR October, 2017 Venue: India Knit Fair Association, Tiruppur Organizer: India Knit Fair Association Tel: GARKNIT X November, 2017 Venue: Science City, Kolkata Organizer: Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd Tel: , TEXFAIR November, 2017 Venue: CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore Organizer: SIMA Tel: YARN, FABRIC AND ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW 24 27, November 2017 Venue: NSIC Exhibition Complex, Okhla, New Delhi Organizer: Vision Communications Tel: , FABRIS 2 FASHION EXPO 7 9 December, 2017 Venue: Hi-Tech Tirupur Exhibition Centre, Tirupur Organizer: Hi-Tech Intl. Trade Fair Tel: / ITMACH INDIA December, 2017 Venue: The Helipad Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, India Organizer: K and D Itmach Expositions Llp Tel: /86/87/88 GTE (GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO) January, 2018 Venue: NSIC Exhibition Complex, New Delhi Organizer: Garment Technology Expo Tel: , KNITVISION February, 2018 Venue: Dana Mandi, Bahadur Ke Road, Near Jalandhar, Ludhiana Organizer: Showman Associates P. Ltd Tel: , IHGF DELHI FAIR SPRING February, 2018 Venue: India Expo Centre & Mart, Greater Noida Organizer: EPCH Tel: /57/58 GMMSA EXPO 26 Feb. 01March, 2018 Venue: Dana Mandi, Bahadur Ke Road, Ludhiana, (Punjab) Organizer: Garments Machinery Manufacturers & Suppliers Association Tel: , YARN, FABRIC AND ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW March, 2018 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur, Tamilnadu Organizer: Vision Communications Tel: , F&A SHOW (FABRIC & ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW) March, 2018 Venue: Trade Centre, KTPO, Bangalore Organizer: S S Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. Tel: , GARKNIT X April, 2018 Venue: Velan Hotel Fair Ground, Tirupur Organizer: Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd Tel: , (You are requested to reconfirm dates and other information from respective organisers prior to making your travel arrangements) 120/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2017

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