CETI - CENTRE EUROPÉEN DES TEXTILES INNOVANTS TAKE A NEW APPROACH TO SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

Transcription

1 CETI - CENTRE EUROPÉEN DES TEXTILES INNOVANTS TAKE A NEW APPROACH TO SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

2 THE CENTER FOR APPLIED RESEARCH AND INNOVATION TO CONCEIVE, EXPERIMENT AND PROTOTYPE TEXTILE MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS PERFORMANCE OF MATERIALS EXTRUSION SPINNING NONWOVEN WEAVING EMBELLISHMENTS THE PROOF OF INNOVATION BY DOING IT DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION TO SERVE PRODUCTS THE DIGITALIZATION OF CONCEPTION AND PROTOTYPING STEPS INTEGRATION OF NEW INNOVATIVE FUNCTIONS NEW EXPERIENCES WITH THE FINAL CLIENT ECO-RESPONSIBLE DEVELOPMENT ECO-CONCEIVED FIBERS (BIOSOURCED FIBERS, NATURAL FIBERS) ECO-CONCEPTION OF PRODUCTS END-OF-LIFE TREATMENTS FOR PRODUCTS REDUCING THE ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT CIRCULAR ECONOMY According to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDG), economic growth and sustainable development require the production of goods and services that will improve the quality of life, keep the reduction of natural resources to a minimum and decrease the use of toxic materials, amount of waste produced and number of pollutants generated in manufacturing and consumption processes. Since its creation in 2012, CETI has integrated this strategic axis for sustainable development in its approach. Taking into account product impact on the environment, increasingly responsible consumption and more ethical products will help overcome the lack of natural resources and decrease the use of toxic products. It is with this perspective of sustainable development in mind that we guide our textile industry customers in the planning and follow-up of their projects. We offer them technical solutions so they can make more responsible textile products. Since 2014, the CETI has become known for perfecting new materials not derived from petrol but from bio-sourced fiber bases: PLA, polyester made from corn and beets and Polyamide 11 (often used as nylon) spun from a castor oil base. We also collaborate on product developments that reduce textile structures while consuming less energy and conserving the same mechanical properties. Today, we have focused our research on recyclability to salvage leftover, unused or postconsumer materials that will enhance used textiles and aid in imagining new products with strong added value to make this economic model viable. By reinventing end-of-life treatments for materials, CETI helps supply the textile industry with new raw material by-products. In the interest of preserving resources, CETI positions itself as a pioneer for improving industrial processes to remain at the cutting edge of technology. 3 PILOT LINES FOR A UNIQUE TRANSVERSAL APPROACH WITH COTTON SHORTAGES ALREADY ANTICIPATED IN THE UPCOMING YEARS, IT IS VITAL THAT THIS RAW MATERIAL BE RECYCLED. THIS IS WHY CETI HAS INVESTED IN A SHORT-FIBER RECYCLING PLATFORM, UNIQUE IN EUROPE. PILOT LINE PROCESSING TEXTILE PILOT LINE FUTURE APPAREL EXPERIENCE PILOT LINE UPCYCLING 2 3

3 GIVE SENSE TO CONSUMPTION NONWOVEN WEB CETI is available to accompany textile manufacturers, sorter-collectors and fashion brands as they begin to integrate environmental requirements to reduce their ecological footprint. By using sustainable design principles as an opportunity and taking into account consumer needs, LET S REINVENT TOGETHER THE END-OF-LIFE SCENARIOS FOR PRODUCTS AND TEXTILE WASTE. USED ARTICLES (COTTON, POLY-COTTON, WOOL, POLYESTER) SORTING ARTICLES (BY COMPOSITION AND COLOR) TEXTILE SCRAPS (REMOVAL OF SEWN SEAMS AND HARD POINTS) SUSTAINABLE DESIGN Knowledge of the product Identifying the raw material most adapted to its use Analyzing its life cycle Doing a multi-criteria evaluation Environmental gain Preventing environmental risks. Optimizing processes/materials/ products. Taking into account the end of life of each product. RECYCLABILITY Identifying material deposits that could be used Post-consumer textile items (clothes, household linens, professional outfits). Leftovers : unsold stocks or end-ofseries items. Waste from the clothing/textile and food industries (production and cutting scraps, defective pieces). IMAGINE AND REINVENT NEW POSSIBILITIES FOR TEXTILE WASTE Recyclability tests Sorting by composition and color. Automatically identifying and elimating any hard bits in materials. Transforming cloth into fibers by using the fraying process. Product development Designing a product using recycled fibers. Increasing the percentage of recycled fibers in a finished product. Prototyping Adjusting the recycled fibers. Making a nonwoven web. Maximizing performance. Doing consumer and safety tests. Accompanying production Transferring knowledge. Training and accompanying teams. FRAYED FIBERS Economic impact COLLECT TOWARDS MORE COMPETITIVE RAW MATERIALS New opportunities for the textile and fashion industry: Clothing: Fashion, professional outfit Soft Furnishing: curtain, shades,... Disposable (biodegradable) textile for wiping Thermal and acoustic insulation product (building, automotive) Geotextile CONTACT Mara POGGIO R&D Engineer - Business & Sustainable Development mara.poggio@ceti.com +33 (0) SALES MANUFACTURING WOVEN / KNITTED CLOTHS RECYCLED THREAD 4 5

4 THE UPCYCLING PLATFORM A PILOT LINE FOR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT THAT COMES FROM POST-CONSUMER TEXTILE RECYCLING AND PRODUCTION WASTE GOING FROM FIBERS TO A NONWOVEN A pilot line for recycling short fibers A collection of 100% cotton fibers recycled from already-worn clothing Elimination of the dyeing phase Obtention of fiber thinness from 30 Nm to 50Nm Tests on fibers and blends cotton, wool, polyester, poly-cotton FIBER BLENDER & OPENER CARDING AIRLAYING GOING FROM THE CLOTH TO FIBER STATE GOING FROM FIBERS TO YARNS PREPARATION BEFORE FRAYING FRAYING FIBER BLENDER & OPENER CARDING SPINNING ON OPEN-END LOOMS SHREDDING SIZING MAINTAIN A MAXIMAL FIBER LENGTH OBTAIN THE DESIRED COLORS BY MIXING COLORED FIBERS ELIMINATE IMPURITIES IN THE FIBERS IMPROVE YARN QUALITY LIMIT THE AMOUNT OF FIBERS THAT BREAK DURING FRAYING CALIBRATE THE FRAYING TO OBTAIN A SUFFICIENT OPENING OF THE FIBER WITHOUT BREAKING ITS LENGTH LIMIT THE LOSS OF MATERIAL DURING THE PROCESS AND WHILE STUFFING THE CARDER REDUCE THE TOO-HIGH NUMBER OF YARN BREAKAGES TO AVOID TOO MUCH KNOTTING ON THE SPINNING LOOM ADJUST THE DAMPNESS RATE BASED ON THE QUALITIES OF EACH FIBER 6 7

5 PROJECT FINANCED BY ADEME AAP Operation realized with the support of Investissements d Avenir Circular economy, recycling and validation of waste and co-financing by Métropole Européenne de Lille. Total budget: Project launched: September 1 st, 2017 Length : 3 years REINVENT THE END-OF-LIFE OF TEXTILE ARTICLES TO DESIGN MORE RESPONSIBLE CLOTHING COLLECTIONS Competitivity challenge: Optimize technical-economic efficiency and reduce the environmental impact of raw materials. Targeted Markets: clothing, fashion, home textiles. IN COMPLEMENT TO THIS PROJECT, WE ARE STUDYING THE REALIZATION OF SHORT-FIBER BLENDS IN RECYCLED POLYESTER/COTTON WHY CHOOSE COTTON? Cotton has a bad environmental footprint since growing it requires the use of pesticides and a large amount of water. However it remains the favorite raw material of clothing manufacturers because of its softness and easy-care qualities. Circular recycling helps bring a true added value to cotton. The clothing collected in France is a source of raw material by-products. Construction of a pilot platform for validating used textile products: A platform conceived to treat short fibers as well as blends such as polyester-cotton. SORTING UNWEAVING FRAYING CARDING OPEN-END SPINNING WEAVING / KNITTING The REWIND project is inscribed in the ethical circle of a circular economy and plans to deploy industrial installations that can collect, sort, break down and recycle post-consumer textile articles. PROJECT These tests can then lead to the REWIND progressive inclusion of recycled cotton fibers in all the DECATHLON group s industrial production for woven and knit garments. By reinventing the end-of-life of a product, we supply the textile industry with a raw material by-product. Brands and manufacturers will be able to use recycled materials that will, over time, considerably help reduce the volume of virgin materials and production costs while optimizing the cotton fibers environmental footprint. Adidas, sponsor of the Sport Infinity research project carried out in the context of the European Commission H2020 initiatives, asked CETI and other industrial partners, including BASF, to research and develop the creation of a new generation of entirely recycled sport products. OBJECTIVE Identify and develop innovative recyclable materials that will allow easily customizable sport products to be produced. CREATE A NEW GENERATION OF ENTIRELY RECYCLED SPORT PRODUCTS Every gram of a soccer OR sport shoe s material can be reused and re-fashioned in a 3-D shape. PROJECT SPORT INFINITY After demonstration models have been produced, they will be validated by user-client panels at DECATHLON. 8 9

6 DEVELOPMENT OF TALENTS CUSTOMERS BLUEPRINT As a training organization dedicated to textile innovation, CETI accompanies European companies in the extended industries of Textiles, Fashion/Luxury and Retail in their evolution and transformation towards a responsible environmental approach. The originality of these trainings comes from a more concrete approach that shares client experiences and illustrates methods by using CETI s pilot prototyping lines. Thus each trainee will be able to interact with technicians and engineers in a context that encourages the sharing of know-how. CETI s instructors strength of conviction invites each trainee to surpass themselves and better approach the transformation of industry trades today. CONCEIVE INNOVATION Designing innovaion Definition of an innovation offer adapted to a specific target and market / Identification of strengths and weaknesses of innovation projects / Optimization of human resources for the project April 20, 2018 October 26, 2018 Sustainable fashion The use of good environmental practices internationally Finding your place in the sustainable fashion movement / Taking inspiration from initiatives around the world. May 29, 2018 October 11, 2018 The textile recycling procedure: from cloth to fibers and from fibers to finished products Understanding industrial procedures for textile recycling/ Bringing added value to your product. October 30 & 31, 2018 OKAïDI Think Life cycle - Integrate life cycle management and the circular economy into my professional practices Good practices to take a new approach to sustainable development / Following your products environmental impact as an indicator of their performance. On request Responsible management of the textile supply chain Integrating social and environmental preoccupations in operational activities / Responsible Purchasing process in textile entreprise / Corporate social responsibility (CSR) communication of suppliers and subcontractors. June 05, 2018 Recycling textiles: Prospects and perspectives for an emerging industry Identifying new material deposits and their added value for your products. September 26-27,

7 FUNDAMENTAL VALUES AMBITION CONVICTION SUCCESS Contact : innovation@ceti.com European Center for Innovative Textiles 41 rue des métissages, CS Tourcoing Writing : CETI - European Center for Innovative Textiles Graphic Design : Elodie Poulin Photos : Jean-Michel André AdobeStock LAROCHE