A model from the Alta Moda show by Dolce&Gabbana in the iconic frame of the Palazzo Litta, December 8th 2018.

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Donald Bishop
5 years ago
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2 A model from the Alta Moda show by Dolce&Gabbana in the iconic frame of the Palazzo Litta, December 8th The latest haute couture and haute joaillerie presentations by Dolce & Gabbana were enchanted opportunities to delve into the magnificence of the 1500 s in Milan. Historically, this era has significantly contributed to Milan s place as one of the most important cities when it comes to the arts. Under the reign of Duke Ludovico Maria Sforza, known as Il Moro, or The Moor ( ), Milan experienced a great flourishing of the arts and sciences as the city opened itself to the new ideas of the Renaissance. One illustrious resident of nearly 20 years, Leonardo da Vinci ( ), arrived in Milan between the spring and summer of 1482, summoned by Duke Ludovico who wished to surround himself with beautiful minds ; he made this city the capital of the Renaissance. The young Ludovico was educated by the humanist Filelfo, the best tutor of the time, who gave Ludovico a solid classical education. Soon in 1491, his vision and passion for the city would be shared as Ludovico Maria Sforza married Beatrice d Este, the youngest princess of the Court of Ferrara, not particularly beautiful but full of vibrant, carefree joie de vivre. The wedding reception planned by da Vinci was one of the most sensational social events of the century, with the participation of princes, ambassadors, poets and writers from all over Europe, the Dolce&Gabbana team says.

A model from the Alta Sartoria show by Dolce&Gabbana in the iconic frame of Palazzo Litta, December 8th 2018.

3 A model from the Alta Sartoria show by Dolce&Gabbana in the iconic frame of Palazzo Litta, December 8th After his marriage to Beatrice d Este, Ludovico is believed to have entrusted the construction of the new tribune of Santa Maria delle Grazie to Donato Bramante who, with the design of the magnificent dome, made the church one of the most beautiful architectural expressions of the Italian Renaissance. According to Il Moro s intentions, the Dominican house of worship would assume the function of a palatine church, while the choir would house the mausoleum of the Sforza dynasty. Il Moro commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to fresco the famous Last Supper in the refectory of the church, which he completed in 1498, the Dolce&Gabbana team adds.

Necklace by Dolce&Gabbana in yellow and white gold with Lagoon tourmalines, peridots, tsavorite garnets, emeralds, diamonds, coral and South Sea pearls; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December 2018. POA.

4 Necklace by Dolce&Gabbana in yellow and white gold with Lagoon tourmalines, peridots, tsavorite garnets, emeralds, diamonds, coral and South Sea pearls; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December POA. The pomp and splendour with which Beatrice d Este surrounded herself were described as follows by the chronicler Bernardino Corio in his lively Historia di Milano: The Court of our princes was most splendid, full of new fashions, dresses, and delights. (...) Here was the learning of Greek, here Latin verse and prose flourished resplendently, here were the poetic Muses; hither the masters of the sculptor s art and those foremost in painting had gathered from distant countries, and here songs and sweet sounds of every kind, and such dulcet harmonies that seemed to have descended from Heaven itself upon this excellent court. So it is no wonder that the epicurean duchess, her benefactor husband and the genius inventor are a source of inspiration for these latest collections; with one rendition in particular embodying the above quote to perfection. The vine leaves in resplendent shades of green, serve as a base for two charming angels made of white coral in a spectacular neckpiece. Could it be an evocation of Casa Atellani with its vineyard that Ludovico il Moro bestowed on Leonardo da Vinci in 1498, when the fresco of the Last Supper was almost finished?

Necklace by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K white gold set with diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December 2018. POA.

5 Necklace by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K white gold set with diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December POA. Earrings by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K white gold set with diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December POA. The new Alta Gioielleria collection was presented at the Dolce&Gabbana s New Salons of Alta Gioielleria in Milan on the evening of December 7th, while the Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria shows took place at the iconic location of Palazzo Litta the following day. The three collections are all part of the same ensemble, complementing each other in perfect harmony.

Ring by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K white gold and 18K yellow gold set with diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December 2018. POA.

Each chapter is a chance to demonstrate traditional techniques such as milgrain, bead setting or Bourbon metalwork the latter, as seen in this ring and necklace, is a handmade technique where a

6 Ring by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K white gold and 18K yellow gold set with diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December POA. Each Alta Gioielleria collection is a feat of goldwork, and in particular filigree. Each chapter is a chance to demonstrate traditional techniques such as milgrain, bead setting or Bourbon metalwork the latter, as seen in this ring and necklace, is a handmade technique where a single wire of untwisted gold creates arabesque motifs. The pairing of white and yellow gold adds layers, with the white metal underlining the rims of the structure. Little diamond briolettes add movement and fantasy to the intricate dome, an homage to the tribune of Santa Maria delle Grazie (mentioned earlier). Necklace by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K white gold and 18K yellow gold set with diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December POA.

7 Brooch by Dolce&Gabbana in yellow and white gold with blue sapphire and black and colourless diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Uomo,December POA. Brooch by Dolce&Gabbana in 18K yellow and white gold with rubies and diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Uomo, December POA. Of course, men are not neglected with the Alta Sartoria s collection once again an opportunity to present high jewels for the gents. This season the emphasis has been on lapel pins, in particular double ones. Absolutely gorgeous details adorn each rendition, be it the bespoke patterns of the chain links, or the dazzling, precise use of precious gemstones. They are to be worn with lavish brocade jackets or coats (as seen on the catwalk) or on a simple white jabot; they are more than just accessories, they are emblems of your own kingdom.

Brooch by Dolce&Gabbana with pink sapphires, rubies,

8 A model from the Alta Moda show by Dolce&Gabbana in the iconic frame of Palazzo Litta, December 8th Brooch by Dolce&Gabbana with pink sapphires, rubies, tsavorite garnets, emeralds and diamonds; Alta Gioielleria Donna, December POA.

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