Issue number 398 OCT 2017 CONTENTS. 10 MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR It s All About Me

Transcription

1

2

3

4 Issue number 398 OCT 2017 CONTENTS 10 MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR It s All About Me 12 NEWS Dynasty diamonds: Fit for a queen Empowered women new sources of growth in diamond jewellery sector, says De Beers 14 SPECIAL FEATURES Jewellery retail today and tomorrow 20 SHOWCASE Alluring melody of colours BRANDS Thomas Sabo s growth aspirations 26 TRENDS & STYLES Bejewelled Nature Majestic Blues 24

5

6 Art Direction & Styling : Irene Foo Styling Assistant: Tingo Ko Photography: Kim Ham Makeup: Chi Nip Hair Styling: Po Lam of Hair Peace Wardrobe: Marella Model: Farryn On the cover Tourmaline and diamond pendant, 18-karat gold bracelet featuring imperial topaz stones, pink tourmalines, Paraiba tourmalines and moonstones, and multiple coloured gemstone rings, all by Tayma Fine Jewellery 30 DESIGN Xifu competition shines light on future jewellery design mavens Joy of creation Watch out for luxury 39 INTELLIGENCE Sapphirus explores the mystic world of sapphires INNOVATIONS World s first 3D-printed gold and platinum jewellery collection unveiled Pino Aliprandini breaks new ground in electroplating 44 FAIRS HAPPENINGS A world of sophistication at September HK Fair JNA Awards 2017 applauds industry trailblazers 26

7

8 Director Irene Foo Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Christie Dang EDITORIAL Editor Olivia Quiniquini Managing Editor Sze Man Young Assistant Editors Bernardette Sto. Domingo, Dodo To Writer Elmo Wong Senior Directories Research Executive William Yick Administrative Executive Tingo Ko SALES Regional Head of Sales Christine Sinn Advertising Manager Tina Hui Account Managers Jennifer Chan, Karen Lam Sales Administrator Cat Lee MARKETING AND CIRCULATION Senior Marketing Executive Grace Tam Senior Circulation Executive Lonita Hui ONLINE & SOCIAL MEDIA Assistant Marketing Manager Winkle Yim Senior Marketing Executive Althea Long Online Specialist Pansy Lo PRODUCTION Senior Production Manager Jessie Quek Senior Graphic Designer Eva Kam Advertising Administration Eva So China: Italy: Japan: Taiwan: ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Wendy Yip, UBM China (Guangzhou) Co Ltd Tel: (86) Shenzhen Office Tel: (86) Mauro Arati, Studio Luciano Arati sas, Largo Camus, 1, Milan - Italy Tel: (39) info@studioarati.it Nobuaki Nito, UBM Japan Co Ltd Tel: (81) nobuaki.nito@ubm.com Sabine Liu, UBM Asia Ltd - Taiwan Branch Tel: (886) sabine.liu@ubm.com Thailand: Anuchana Vichvech, UBM Asia (Thailand) Co Ltd Tel: (66) anna.v@ubm.com US: Cecilia Wun, UBM Asia Ltd USA Tel: (1) cecilia.wun@ubm.com President & CEO Jimé Essink Senior Vice President Wolfram Diener Founder Letitia Chow Mei Lai Published by UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) Fax: (852) Copyright Contents of JNA are copyright. Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorisation of the publisher. JNA is published in Hong Kong each month and is available on subscription. Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong.

9

10 Message from the Editor IT S ALL ABOUT ME Everyone knows we are now living in the new normal. Like it or not, we have to accept the fact that suppliers no longer determine how the market should go. Yet I cannot fully agree with the saying, the customer is king. Today s retail world is still an interactive scenario when suppliers are working closely together with their customers. Producers apparently want to create something that matches perfectly the needs of their buyers, but how can this be done? In the retail world today, it s all about me, the consumer! Suppliers or retailers can no longer hard sell products to their target customers just because they ve produced a new collection, achieved a technological breakthrough or come up with a totally original and revolutionary design. One must instead convince buyers that this item is indeed what consumers are looking for. Communication is thus vital. If we could help our customers dream their dreams, realise their goals and solve their problems, the market potential is still enormous! Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Christie Dang editor@jewellerynewsasia.com AL CORO

11

12 NEWS Dynasty diamonds: FIT FOR A QUEEN The Dynasty Collection A carat D-colour VVS1 diamond from Alrosa s The Dynasty Collection All eyes are on the extremely exceptional selection of five top-quality diamonds from Russian mining giant Alrosa s The Dynasty Collection. The Dynasty, to be sold at a special online auction this November, consists of five diamonds created from a 179- carat rough recovered from the Nyurbinskaya kimberlite pipe in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) in Alrosa said it took a year and a half to create the collection, which is headlined by The Dynasty, a carat, 57-facet traditional round brilliant-cut diamond rated Triple Excellent of D colour in VVS1 clarity. The collection was recently showcased in Hong Kong. Evgeniy Tsybukov, deputy director of Alrosa Diamonds, said the centrepiece is predicted to fetch more than US$10 million at auction. The Dynasty has so far garnered interest among a wide variety of potential buyers from Israel, Belgium, India, Hong Kong, China and the US, he added. According to Alrosa, The Dynasty is unprecedented in the history of Russia when it comes to overall characteristics. It is the most expensive diamond with the best clarity grade ever cut in Russia. Jewelmer pays homage to a woman s strength and beauty Jewelmer created bracelets with golden South Sea pearls to celebrate its partnership with ICANSERVE foundation Luxury jewellery brand Jewelmer recently partnered with ICANSERVE foundation in the Philippines to celebrate women s strength and unwavering spirit by raising awareness on breast cancer. ICANSERVE is a non-profit organisation advocating breast cancer awareness and providing hope and help to women afflicted with this condition in the Philippines. In support of the advocacy, Jewelmer unveiled the Why We Fight bracelet. The golden pearl, an emblem of life, rests at the heart of the creation, symbolising the inexhaustible beauty existing in nature and the unbreakable strength intrinsic in all women, noted Jewelmer. Part of the proceeds from bracelet sales will be donated to the foundation to fund extensive initiatives and community-based testing and screening programmes for women. JNA 12 OCT 2017

13 NEWS Empowered women new sources of growth in diamond jewellery sector, says DE BEERS Diamond ring The rise of powerful, self-actualised women in society is giving birth to new sources of demand in the global diamond jewellery industry, according to De Beers. In its latest Diamond Insight Report, De Beers said shifting relationship dynamics, women s economic empowerment and female self-image are creating new gifting motivations and self-purchase opportunities. The report further revealed that social and economic changes are leading to expanded symbolism for diamond jewellery, record levels of self-purchase, and the establishment of new consumer types. The Diamond Insight Report 2017 highlights the emergence of three key trends that are having a direct impact on how and why people buy diamond jewellery, noted De Beers. The first trend is changes to family and personal relationships, which lead to diamond jewellery being purchased and given to symbolise a wider range of life s moments beyond those directly connected to relationship milestones. The second trend influencing purchases is women s increased economic participation and higher earnings, which support growth in women buying diamond jewellery for themselves. Lastly, the report pointed to an emerging perception of femininity that is more closely associated with strength and confidence, alongside more traditional attributes such as caring and nurturing. This is leading to diamonds being purchased to symbolise joy, optimism and pride, and to the emergence of a new class of consumer the mature single woman. REFINED DESIGNS TAKE CENTRE STAGE AT Tiancheng auction Prince Frog pendant Hong Kong-based Tiancheng International is presenting a wide range of refined jewels and one-of-a-kind designer jewellery pieces at its Jewellery and Jadeite Mid-season Auction scheduled for October 2. Top-billing the lots are a butterfly brooch in blue titanium with fancy sapphires by Thai designer Nisan and a Prince Frog pendant with an amethyst centrepiece, tsavorite garnets and diamonds. Another highlight of the auction is an emerald demiparure by de GRISOGONO, adorned with carats of natural Colombian emeralds and diamonds. Stewart Young, director of Tiancheng s jewellery department, commented, To echo with our seasoned selection on fine and exquisite jewellery, Tiancheng International continues to present a diverse range of treasures to our eclectic collectors. The auction is also showcasing pieces by Jason Koo and the early works of jewellery design maven Wallace Chan, as well as Cartier and Tiffany creations. Butterfly brooch in blue titanium with fancy sapphires JNA 13 OCT 2017

14 SPECIAL FEATURES JEWELLERY RETAIL today and tomorrow The jewellery retail landscape is fast evolving as consumer preferences change with the advent of digital platforms and shifting priorities. Jewellers should thus adjust their mindsets, offer experiential retail settings, and rebrand their products and themselves to remain relevant in the market. By Esther Ligthart Jewellery retail is struggling. While some believe it will all blow over, others know that they better invest energy, time and money in getting ready for the future. But what does that future look like? Globally, there are many different realities, of course, influenced by cultural, economic and geopolitical changes. But if we take a look at the US for example, we see a decline in jewellery stores closing this year. According to industry data, 194 stores have ceased operations in 2017 so far (442 within the same period in 2016) but we also see a decline in new stores opening 29 in 2017 versus 83 in the same period last year. Many of the stores closing have been around for several generations, yet many of them failed to evolve with the times. Let s face it, jewellery retailers had to go through a number of changes over the last two decades. From selling generic jewellery to the arrival of a tsunami of brands, jewellers had to learn how to buy, introduce and market brands. Then, in 2008, the global economic crisis hit the market hard. And as expected, jewellery being inessential, it hit jewellery retailers even harder. Just when they crawled out of the crisis, they found a whole new world where consumers appeared to have changed the way they buy. Social media influenced both consumers and retailers and their conversation together, and now the brands they fought to have were found all over the Internet at online stores at often better prices, just a swipe away on every mobile device. JNA 14 OCT 2017

15 SPECIAL FEATURES A bumpy ride and, according to many, it s not getting any easier yet. Changes come slow, but one could also look at the future with excitement and anticipation. Where will it all go in retail? Today we find ourselves guessing a little where it will all go from here with retail in general. But one thing is certain; nothing will remain as it is or return to how things were. In many countries, we are surrounded by retailers that still have little or no presence online. A static web page is not an online presence. Social media, e-commerce, Beacons and AI are here to stay, and consumers everywhere are embracing them. But most experts agree that although we don t know exactly where retail is heading, doing nothing and thinking it will all blow over is kind of the worst thing to do. A taste of what might be ahead of us is given by Nordstrom in the US. This giant in retail is opening this month its latest store. Nordstrom Local will be completely different and 50 times smaller than its usual stores! The store will have everything from stylists and wine servings to manicurists and personalised style advice but will contain no merchandise at all. Nothing. Could this be the blurring of online and in-store shopping? The idea is that people can pick up orders here, drop off returns, get personalised advice about their outfit and have the merchandise they choose delivered to them where and how they want it. The store is there for people to connect with the brand and its employees, get customised advice or simply get inspired. No merchandise at all. Is this the future? The near future In 2014, McKinsey & Company published a report about the future of jewellery retail in Now that 2020 is getting closer, it will be interesting to see just how much of this report will come true. The report was partly created by interviewing people from the jewellery industry and their views on the future. Here are a few of their predictions: International retail groups will acquire small, local players (the independent store or mom & pop store will disappear). The 10 largest jewellery houses will increase their share of the market by doubling through acquisitions. 10 percent of all jewellery purchases will be done online. Buying diamond jewellery today is too serious. Rachel Pashley, J. Walter Thompson JNA 15 OCT 2017

16 SPECIAL FEATURES Female purchasing power The most recent report from De Beers also stood out because it contained a very strong message: Female purchasing power and its influence on the necessity to rebrand diamond jewellery. The numbers actually tell it all. In 24 percent of US households, the woman is the major income provider. In 25 percent of households in China, the woman is also the major income provider. In 2025, it is expected that 50 percent of women will be the major income provider. This calls for a major shift in branding diamond jewellery. In the US, bridal and engagement rings still drive most of the sales of diamond jewellery. In a huge country like India though, this Western trend of diamond engagement rings never came into fashion, unlike in China or Japan. But young female professionals in India are now moving away from more traditional jewellery and buying diamond jewellery for themselves. De Beers states that an increasing number of females are now self-purchasing clients in the US in 2016, 31 percent of all women s diamond jewellery was bought by women themselves. This calls for rebranding of not just the diamond jewellery market but perhaps even of the whole jewellery market. De Beers gives an example of rebranding by not solely emphasising that diamonds are a symbol of love, but also presenting them as a symbol of joy, optimism, pride and confidence. The whole diamond sector will invest heavily in rebranding the diamond in the coming years, in order to stay relevant to consumers. JNA 16 OCT 2017

17 SPECIAL FEATURES Buying jewellery is far too serious A very interesting comment in the De Beers report is made by Rachel Pashley from creative agency J. Walter Thompson who states, Buying diamond jewellery today is too serious. And she has a point. Make it more fun and self-gratifying, she says. Pashley takes the intensely experiential approach of skincare companies as an example. Give women permission to reward themselves, she exhorts. If there is something that all experts agree about, it must be making the purchasing of services and goods far more experiential. Millennials preferring experience over possession have everything to do with that. But also, grabbing the attention of the consumer is now harder than ever as we live in a world where people are distracted constantly by information overload. In 24 percent of US households, the woman is the major income provider. In 25 percent of households in China, the woman is also the major income provider. In 2025, it is expected that 50 percent of women will be the major income provider. JNA 17 OCT 2017

18 SPECIAL FEATURES Not an overnight movement In their book, New Rules of Retail, Robin Lewis and Michael Dart examined the changing retail landscape. The consumer value shift did not happen overnight; consumers didn t sit down and write a list of new wishes. The new dynamic happened slowly but started with the value creators (retailers, brands, services) first. They identified and anticipated what innovative value would win consumers and beat competitors. As consumers embraced these new offerings, they raised the value bar and this is the process still going on today, they explained. It seems simple enough, but it isn t. Lewis and Dart dived into the world of some of the most successful brands and pointed out how brands open up more own stores while department stores develop their own brands. They also noted that having control over the product all the way down the value chain and developing co-creations with their consumers (using consumer input, data, tracking and conversation) were very important to those brands that are taking the boldest steps into the retail future. Having people connect on an emotional level with your brand and store is crucial. Think of a Starbucks or Disney store, for instance. People entering the store feel excited; they feel a range of emotions. Neurological connectivity, they call it in the book, and they too point out that experiential superiority is where retailers find their future. Does this mean that jewellery retailers should obey all the requests of the brands they work with? Or does this mean that perhaps they should start to work together in a smart way, taking advantage of the knowledge of those brands that have done serious research and can deliver results? Is the jewellery industry as far ahead as the apparel industry today? JNA 18 OCT 2017

19 SPECIAL FEATURES Jewellery stores as media outlets Are jewellery stores becoming the new media? There is also another vision about the future of retail: Stores will become the media point from where brands can articulate their brand story. Excite consumers about products, engage with them and funnel sales into a number of channels and devices. The prediction is that the physical store can become the most powerful form of media. The relationship between store and brand will become more a media buy than the wholesale product purchase it is today. This does make sense, considering that there are multiple benefits such as less time spent on buying, inventory, and training staff to name a few. But like the Nordstrom example, it could also mean that another problem will be solved: Staff. What if a store needs less staff but can now afford highly skilled storytellers, stylists and experts? In conclusion, jewellery retail is evolving and changing like the rest of retail. Jewellery retailers will need to invest in communication with their clients on the platforms where they are found, such as social media. Using chatbots for all interactions will make conversation even easier. Some 85 percent of customer relationships will be through AI or Chatbots a one-on-one conversational interface between customers and brands/stores powered by AI and learned responses in 2020, while 1.6 billion people use a mobile messenger app today! The arrival of Augmented Reality will open the road to new ways of showing merchandise to clients, and the idea of jewellery stores becoming media outlets rather than wholesale purchasers might become real. Economies, such as the Netherlands, are pushing companies to become circular. The Dutch government wants the country to evolve into a completely circular economy by 2050 a re-use, upcycling and sharing economy instead of the traditional consumption economy. As population expands, lives longer and becomes wealthier, our planet suffers from our enormous footprint and we all simply need to rethink how we consume. A challenging future, but the environment around us all is changing in many ways. We have a choice. The future seems to be for those retailers that really know when and how to embrace the difficult but also exciting evolution of retail. About the author Founder of jewellery blog Bizzita.com, Esther Ligthart has 25 years of international sales and marketing experience in the jewellery industry. She now enjoys contributing to trade and luxury magazines and working as a business consultant. JNA 19 OCT 2017

20 SHOWCASE Necklace: Spessartine garnet with an 18-karat yellow gold diamond clasp Pendant: Fire opal and peridot with diamonds Earrings: Golden South Sea pearls with detachable diamond studs Alluring Melody of COLOURS Striking colours draw the eye to bold creations that speak volumes about a woman s charm and self-assurance. These captivating pieces imbue today s independent and confident woman with a regal sense of self. With poise and pride, she affirms her role in modern society never apologising or conforming; always prevailing and succeeding. Hers is a beauty to be admired and emulated. Hers is a strength that fascinates, and commands respect. Her life is as vivid, dynamic and purposeful as the vibrant palette she chooses to adorn herself with. JNA 20 OCT 2017

21 SHOWCASE Necklace: Tahitian pearl strand with an 18-karat white gold diamond clasp Pendant: Green and pink tourmalines with white diamonds Earrings: Green tourmalines with detachable diamond studs JNA 21 OCT 2017

22 SHOWCASE Necklace: 18-karat white gold with aquamarines, morganites and diamonds Earrings: Kunzite, green tourmaline and diamonds in 18-karat white gold Rings: Blue tourmaline, aquamarine, blue moonstones and fancy sapphires JNA 22 OCT 2017

23 SHOWCASE Art Direction & Styling : Irene Foo Styling Assistant: Tingo Ko Photography: Kim Ham Makeup: Chi Nip Hair Styling: Po Lam of Hair Peace Wardrobe: Marella Model: Farryn All jewellery by: Tayma Fine Jewellery Necklace: Rubellites and yellow tourmalines in 18-karat yellow gold Earrings: Pink and brown tourmalines in 18-karat yellow gold Ring: Rubellites and yellow tourmalines in 18-karat yellow gold JNA 23 OCT 2017

24 BRANDS THOMAS SABO S growth aspirations Luxury silver jewellery brand Thomas Sabo is looking east for expansion and design inspiration. It also reaffirms its relevance in an ever-changing market by celebrating milestones and charting new directions. By Olivia Quiniquini Dragon Nights earrings and pendants Thomas Sabo is training its sights on the Asia-Pacific region for growth, with the luxury silver jewellery brand looking to double its presence there over the next two years. Asia is our main focus at the moment; we are entering so many new countries with plenty of shops and many different partners. We have nearly 100 stores in the region at present, and our goal is to have 200 shopping destinations by Consumers in Asia-Pacific countries realise that our designs and quality set us apart from the rest, said Founder, Chairman and Managing Director Thomas Sabo. Already, the brand has been rapidly expanding its Asian footprint in the last 12 months. It entered Thailand at the end of 2016 and debuted in South Korea earlier this year. Thomas Sabo also recently established a presence in Vietnam and opened a new flagship store in Hong Kong s Ocean Terminal shopping mall last month as part of its aggressive push in Greater China. We see a lot of growth potential due to our unique design proposition for the Asia- Pacific region. We also keep on opening new stores in our existing strong markets such as Australia, New Zealand, Singapore and Malaysia, remarked Lars Schmidt, the brand s sales director for Asia. JNA 24 OCT 2017

25 BRANDS Fresh classics Thomas Sabo s expansion drive comes as the company celebrates a number of milestones. For starters, its Rebel at Heart Collection, which broke new ground with its skull, cross and symbolic motifs, turns 10 this year. We created a lot of iconic pieces in this collection that have stood the test of time. I m proud that this has become almost a classic jewellery line for us, Sabo shared. The brand has also unveiled its latest store design concept that will inform its future retail outlets the new Hong Kong flagship boutique incorporates midcentury elements such as 50s-inspired Serge Mouille lamps and sports a fresh colour palette of warmer and lighter colours. Sabo places a huge premium on the retail experience. Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of social media. To me, the face-to-face experience in a retail environment that fully reflects the brand is pivotal, he admitted. Wholesale and retail partnerships are indeed the cornerstones of Thomas Sabo s business. Only a few brands will survive in the coming years; we will be one of them. It s very important to have a presence in jewellers stores, and we offer our trade partners our full support, Sabo explained. One such initiative is Thomas Sabo s online Wholesale Training Academy that arms frontliners with the knowledge they need to sell the brand effectively. Retailers who work with different brands are very impressed that ours is so rich in heritage, history and meaningful jewellery. The academy is a great tool for us to transfer all this knowledge to our wholesale and retail partners, Schmidt commented. Royalty earrings and rings Future directions Moving forward, Sabo sees renewed demand for colourful jewellery in the next two years. His recent Royalty series and his new Dragon Nights Collection, which highlights his affinity with Oriental mythology, take a step in that direction. The brand has likewise recently upped the luxury level by incorporating diamonds in its iconic designs. And while many designer silver jewellery brands have been snapped up by bigger conglomerates, Sabo retains ownership and full control over his eponymous brand. He remains fully involved in every aspect of the business every hour and every minute of every day. The past year has been tough in general, but we have seen positive signs these last three months and remain one of the most important brands for retailers, said Sabo. Many brands have almost lost their heritage as they are run by designers who have come and gone. For me, it is important to grow organically and steadily. We are growing with our own money that has always been my philosophy. Expansion is therefore slower, but it suits me just fine. Thomas Sabo JNA 25 OCT 2017

26 TRENDS & STYLES Henn of London Ltd Dai Sun Jewellery Co Ltd Bejewelled Nature Designers from fashion and jewellery worlds alike draw inspiration from flora and fauna, adding their own unique perspective to their creations. Some answer the call of the world while others let their imagination roam free in idyllic gardens. Etro Erica Jewellery Co Ltd JNA 26 OCT 2017

27 TRENDS & STYLES Fish Enterprises (Thailand) Ltd Moraglione 1922 Desigual Goldiaq Creation Ltd Ferrari Firenze JNA 27 OCT 2017

28 TRENDS & STYLES Hatta New World Co Ltd La Marquise Majestic Blues Myriad shades of blue make an appearance on fashion catwalks in a show of elegance and creativity. Jewellery designers are just as enamoured with the colour s versatility in the gemstone world, from the richness of sapphires and the tranquillity of aquamarines to the crisp dynamism of tanzanites and the electrifying magnetism of Paraiba tourmaline, among others. Prabal Gurung Oriental Gemco HK Ltd JNA 28 OCT 2017

29 TRENDS & STYLES Lao Feng Xiang Co Ltd Glory Sun Jewellery Co Ltd Christian Siriano Legrand Jewellery (Mfg) Co Ltd Pranda Group JNA 29 OCT 2017

30 Xifu competition SHINES LIGHT ON FUTURE JEWELLERY DESIGN MAVENS Intricately designed gold jewellery pieces captivated judges and observers alike at the maiden Xifu International Gold Wedding Jewellery Design Competition, which effectively placed gold wedding jewellery back in the limelight with designs that melded tradition and contemporary styles. A golden headpiece and a pair of earrings from Wang Xiaomei, winner of the Xifu Grand Prize The inaugural Xifu International Gold Wedding Jewellery Design Competition, which concluded successfully on September 12, has brought to the fore the grandeur and enigmatic allure of gold bridal jewellery. The Grand Prize of a 1kg pure gold bar and other prizes were awarded at a glittering ceremony in Shenzhen, China. The finalists, which included professional and budding designers from all over the world, signed business cooperation contracts with the competition s sponsor, creating limitless opportunities for further development. Over its nine-month run, the competition drew international attention and made a significant impact in the global jewellery industry by revitalising the gold wedding jewellery segment. The competition harnessed the talents of amateur and professional designers alike and created a platform to modernise and elevate the traditional product segment. Organised by JNA and CJNA of UBM Asia, the World Gold Council and the People s Government of Yantian District, Shenzhen, the biennial competition aims to usher in a new era in gold wedding jewellery by encouraging designers the world over to reflect wedding traditions and customs through fresh and creative designs. JNA 30 OCT 2017

31 Track jewellery set by Yi Ran, first-prize winner in the Plain Gold category Meltem Sahan s Tree of Life design won the second prize in the Plain Gold category Golden opportunity The Xifu Grand Prize was awarded to Wang Xiaomei, a professional jewellery designer from Beijing. Her plain gold design, XiuHeHuan, was a gold wedding jewellery set consisting of a headpiece and a pair of earrings. The two pieces are connected to form one jewellery masterpiece, making it more secure to wear. This symbolises a family unit where two become one to make each other a better person, said Wang. The five judges all agreed that the piece was extremely innovative, original and creative, and awarded it the competition s highest honours. Inspired by a Chinese saying on the passage of time, Yi Ran, a young designer from Beijing, won the first prize in the Plain Gold category with a four-piece set named Track. Yi explained, The design is made of a unique structure with ento-ectad circle layers. The movable circles can form the Chinese word He (oneness) when they are moved to a certain angle, symbolising perfection and women s hopes for a happy marriage. Turkish designer Meltem Sahan received the second prize in the Plain Gold category. Sahan s two-piece design had as theme, Tree of Life, in homage to women. The designer proffered that women have a tree in their wombs where babies are nurtured. This design inspiration and Sahan s stunning plain-gold set encapsulated the Competition s theme, Oneness. Krishma S. Jain s Wheel of Energy won third place in the Plain Gold category Chen Wenmei s ring and hairpin set was a thirdprize winner in the Plain Gold category Jiang Hao s jewellery set was among the thirdprize winners in the Plain Gold category JNA 31 OCT 2017

32 First-prize winning design in the Gem-Set Gold Jewellery category by Xu Min Huang Xiangmin s HeXie necklace and earrings won second place in the Gem-Set Gold Jewellery category Three third prizes were awarded to Chen Wenmei from Shenzhen; Krishma S. Jain from India; and Jiang Hao from Shanghai. Chen designed a two-piece set with a hairpin and a ring named SanShengTaoHua, which was inspired by the Burr Puzzle. She said, Mortise and tenon are sophisticated pieces to be put together to form a secure joint, which might be the best interpretation for concepts such as Yin and Yang, and one world. Jain, for her part, designed her two-piece set of a headpiece and a bracelet around the Wheel of Energy concept. The design symbolised the perfect combination of heart, body and soul. The nature and essence of one s soul embodies oneness, and the design is a tribute to the individuality and innate beauty of each human being. Young designer Jiang, meanwhile, entered the competition with a three-piece design XiangShengXiangHe, comprising a necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring. Jiang used haploids as the main design element, saying not only do they represent wellness, the swirls of hexagons also allude to richness and movement, as though the newlywed couple were caught up dancing in the swirl of love. Five prizes were also given out for the Gem-set Gold Jewellery category. The first prize went to Xu Min, a student who bested many experienced competitors. Taking YongHe as theme, the design is inspired by water particles, which are formed by two chemical bonds. These are simple yet inseparable. The design is a blessing to newlyweds, where two become one and live happily ever after, Xu said. The second prize was awarded to Huang Xiangmin. His design HeXie, was a two-piece set with a necklace and a pair of earrings with red spinels. The pieces symbolise the compatibility of two people with different personalities and backgrounds. Their love covers the sweet moments and the disagreements, and transcends cultural differences through understanding and acceptance. The couple marries and watches the sunset with their children under the red sky, united by their love and never apart. JNA 32 OCT 2017

33 Huang Xuting bagged the first third prize. The student from Shenzhen used innovative colours for her winning design, ShuangQi. She pointed out that the colour green represents romantic encounters; orange represents growing up in love; and red represents the joy and success of love. The design inspiration comes from inseparable birds and connected branches, which are both traditional Chinese concepts of love. The second third prize was awarded to Ronaldo Buensalida from the United Arab Emirates, who used gold, pearls and gems for Metal Memory, his two-piece set of a necklace and a pair of earrings. Buensalida explained that marriage is like metal, therefore the hardness and strength of pure gold and metal are used to bring out the theme of Oneness. The jewellery alludes to purity, which symbolises pure and everlasting love. The last third award was awarded to Sun Hao from Shenzhen for his impressive design, HeMingYunDuan. Sun described the design as a poetic picture with clouds and cranes, which are traditional Chinese symbols of good luck and blessings. Wearing the symbolic design brings perfect beauty, as if life were a poem laden with meaning. The Organising Committee of the Xifu International Gold Wedding Jewellery Design Competition 2017 would like to express its deepest gratitude to all parties involved in the competition s great success, noted the organiser. It sincerely appreciates the kind support of teachers and students from well-known art and design institutions overseas, the extensive coverage by media outlets in mainland China and international markets, as well as the well-wishes, feedback and comments of industry members worldwide. The committee hereby wishes all the winners a bright future, and the gold wedding industry vitality and creativity for the next milestone. Huang Xuting s ShuangQi design was a third-prize winner in the Gem-Set Gold Jewellery category Gem-Set Gold Jewellery category third-prize winner Sun Hao s poetic creations Metal Memory by Ronaldo Buensalida brought home the third prize in the Gem-Set Gold Jewellery category JNA 33 OCT 2017

34 DESIGN Joy OF CREATION Designer jewellery brand Sue & Leo is making a name for itself with its one-of-a-kind fine jewellery pieces that cast the spotlight on pearls. By Sze Man Young Translated by Elmo Wong While foreign clients place a greater premium on design, many customers from mainland China are more particular about the quality of materials used in a jewellery piece. Coming up with original designs is an adventure in itself, one that is self-ordained yet challenging. With its unique and distinctive pearl jewellery pieces, Sue & Leo, a designer jewellery brand run by the Cheng siblings, swiftly rose to prominence in the market. The brand is centred on baroque pearls, using 9-karat gold threads to highlight the lustrous gems beauty through fine lines. Owner Sue Cheng shared with JNA her vision for the brand s one-of-a-kind creations. How did Sue & Leo come about? The brand is named after my brother Leo and me. The Chinese name means opening up a new path and opening our business. Similar to many others in the industry, we started with the wholesale of pearls. At the time, the weak global economy did not favour business growth and development. As jewellery was our main business, it was a must for us to reform and innovate to stay afloat. Last year, we revamped and renovated one of our shops and started producing jewellery of original designs with exquisite craftsmanship and good-quality materials. After a year of intensive promotions, during which we received a lot of constructive feedback from customers that yielded new design ideas, the result has been quite satisfying. JNA 34 OCT 2017

35 DESIGN Who are your clients? We have been doing business with international clients for 10 years. We have a shop in Hongqiao Market in Beijing, which gives us plenty of opportunities to engage with them. We are quite popular among European clients. Our jewellery pieces have original, bespoke designs, so most of the products meet our customers expectations. While foreign clients place a greater premium on design, many customers from mainland China are more particular about the quality of materials used in a jewellery piece. What is Sue & Leo s design process? My brother does most of the design work. He creates what he likes with the materials available at hand. We insist on handling the sourcing and purchasing ourselves as well. In the beginning, we had over 300 designs, at least 50 of which were one-of-a-kind items. We streamlined our portfolio by removing those designs that didn t do well. We currently make at least 100 new designs every month, some of which are extensions of popular lines. We plan to release a lot of brooches in the second half of the year. Copying of designs is rampant in mainland China. How do you cope with this? This is indeed a problem in the market. Copying of designs undoubtedly causes us to lose clients and hurts both our reputation and our business by offering the market poor imitations of our designs at lower prices. We are however confident that clients who see our fine jewellery pieces will understand why we are not competing on price. We also bring new products to the market, ensuring always that they are of good quality. This is the only way to achieve sustainable development of the business. What is your outlook for mainland China s jewellery market? China s jewellery market still has great potential. Growth depends on whether we jewellers can amaze consumers with our products. Only through constant creativity, innovation and development can the industry succeed. JNA 35 OCT 2017

36 DESIGN WATCH OUT FOR LUXURY Designs at this year s Hong Kong Watch & Clock Design Competition revolved around the fascinating world of automobiles. Jointly organised by the HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2017 Organising Committee, the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd, the annual event aims to enhance the design quality of Hong Kong watches and clocks, and raise their profile and sales both locally and overseas. The 2017 competition was divided into the Open Group and Student Group, with the themes of Luxury Automobile and Future Luxury respectively. More than 200 entries were received this year. The judging panel of nine professionals from various sectors evaluated the entries based on originality and creativity, aesthetics and marketability. OPEN GROUP By Sze Man Young Translated by Elmo Wong Champion Title of Design: Roadster Designer: Tam Kwok Tung Sponsoring Company: Wincy Horological Ltd The "Roadster" upholds the spirit of speed and luxury. The streamline on the side of the case represents speed while the dial design alludes to car cockpit instruments. Inspired by the ENGINE START / STOP button, the watch places the crown on the top surface. The special rotational shock-resistant case allows drivers to check the time easily by adjusting the watch to the proper angle. JNA 36 OCT 2017

37 DESIGN 1st Runner Up Title of Design: Timespeed Designer: Sketto Ltd Inspired by cars, the design uses a variety of lines to shape the contour, which is similar to an automobile. The designer projects a sense of luxury through the watch s sophisticated shape. 2nd Runner Up Title of Design: Speedway Designer: Wong Ting-Bong Sponsoring Company: Youngs Watch Co Ltd / Po Fai Precision Ltd Cars and watches have been evolving since they were invented in the 18 th century. Modern automobiles and watches have improved tremendously in both design and function. The meticulous mechanism of cars is the main inspiration of this modern watch. JNA 37 OCT 2017

38 DESIGN FINALISTS Title of Design: Keyless Designer: Lok Man Chun Sponsoring Company: Innomore Co Ltd Overcoming the trouble of carrying car keys, the Keyless watch takes one step forward by installing an advanced chip on its case-back that allows drivers to start the engine or unlock their car with the watch. The unique dial design inspired by the dashboard and braking systems makes Keyless a technical and stylish watch. Title of Design: Silver Stone 2.0T Designer: France Citole HK Binli International Investment Ltd The design is inspired by a car s automotive transmission, where transmission and control functions are combined. The use of stainless steel highlights the watch s mechanical style. The double crown design reduces the size of the dial, prevents it from getting damaged and enhances its waterproof ability. The design also protects the caliber from disruptive external forces. Title of Design: GPS Light Wave Designer: Silcon InnoProducts Ltd The design draws inspiration from sports cars and engine assembly. The watch is shaped like a sports car, with an engine-inspired deluxe surface design. It is also highly functional as it is equipped with a solar panel and GPS, making it a unique and luxurious piece of work. Title of Design: Beautiful Black Designer: Lee Cheuk Chung The design of the watch is based on the shape and engine of the sports car, which is in essence the automobile s soul. Taking design cues from a pocket watch, the dial is covered just like a car s hidden engine. Moreover, its jet black colour represents stability and elegance. JNA 38 OCT 2017

39 INTELLIGENCE Fancy sapphires from Sapphirus Lanka (Pvt) Ltd SAPPHIRUS EXPLORES THE MYSTIC WORLD OF SAPPHIRES Sri Lankan gemstone specialist Sapphirus is forging its own path in the global trade by offering top-range sapphires in innovative and traditional cuts. Sapphirus Lanka (Pvt) Ltd of Sri Lanka cuts an imposing figure in the global gemstone world, thanks to its diverse portfolio of sapphires. The company is the exclusive supplier of the patented Royal Asscher Cut Sapphires and Asscher Cut Princess but its most sought-after product, the Diamond Cut, comprises the bulk of Sapphirus production. All product categories, from calibrated stones to single stones of more than 5mm to 8mm in diameter, Sapphirus Lanka (Pvt) Ltd offers a wide range of sapphires Blue and pink sapphires performed well in the first half of 2017, according to the gemstone expert. All sapphire colours likewise enjoyed sturdy demand during the period in review. Sapphirus major markets include France, Switzerland and the US. It also has a growing presence in China, Japan and Hong Kong. Situated in Ratnapura, the gemstone trading centre of Sri Lanka, Sapphirus is able to source materials with greater efficiency and competitiveness. This helps ensure some level of tractability, creating an extremely efficient mine-to-market tracing of goods throughout our pipeline, noted the company. Fostering lasting ties with customers is also of paramount importance to Sapphirus. We see our clients as partners in success. Building such alliances ensures a mutual understanding of each other s needs, strengths and weaknesses, noted the company. Sapphirus also operates its own heat-treatment facility, which further ensures the integrity of the finished product. JNA 39 OCT 2017

40 INNOVATIONS World s first 3D-PRINTED gold and platinum jewellery collection unveiled 3D printing continues to change the landscape of modern jewellery manufacturing. The unique partnership between Austrian jewellery atelier Boltenstern and UK-based jewellery equipment supplier Cooksongold gives the industry a glimpse into the future of an alternative, state-of-the-art jewellery production. By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Silver earrings with crystals Austrian fine jeweller Boltenstern is bringing to the market the world s first commercial jewellery collection that was directly 3D printed in platinum and gold. The cutting-edge collection, named Embrace, resulted from a long-term collaboration between Boltenstern and UK-based jewellery tools supplier Cooksongold, which is a part of the Heimerle + Meule Group. Boltenstern, a fine jewellery brand established in 1964, operates a goldsmith atelier in Vienna. Jewellery is architecture in its smallest form. It is only by thinking in multiple dimensions that we can create pieces that are incredibly complex yet desirably simple, said Marie Boltenstern, the company s head of design. With a background in architecture, specialising in computational design, Marie combines her deep understanding of building algorithms that generate 3D shapes with complex jewellery designs. The Embrace Collection embodies precious materials embracing colourful joy. The key element of the collection is a gemstone, woven into a fine structure of precious metal. The fragile cage protects the inner beauty of the tender and unique gemstone. For me, JNA 40 OCT 2017

41 INNOVATIONS Embrace reflects the modern woman with her shining inner strength, she explained. Boltenstern, through its partnership with Cooksongold, successfully melded knowledge about computational technology with traditional craftsmanship. It also utilised another modern technology from EOS, a German industrial 3D printer manufacturer and market leader in design-driven, integrated e-manufacturing solutions for Additive Manufacturing, an industrial 3D printing process. By integrating Cooksongold s Direct Precious Metal 3D printing know-how and EOS Direct Metal Laser Sintering technology, Boltenstern produced the first fully 3D-printed fine jewellery collection. Combining platinum and 18-karat gold with precious stones allows for realising endless variations of customised creations, according to Boltenstern and Cooksongold. The collection ranges from bracelets, earrings and rings to necklaces and cufflinks. Price points vary between 75 (around US$88.93) and 75,000 (around US$88,938). In assembly, the elements generate patterns of a star, a cloud and a flower. When combined, the elements of the Embrace structure move playfully, adding a new sensual experience to the jewellery, remarked Boltenstern. Crystal necklace in silver Sapphire earrings in rose gold Silver cufflinks with crystals Cooksongold is excited about Boltenstern launching the first commercial collection directly 3D printed in precious metal with the EOS PRECIOUS M 080. With a long history as a leading global supplier of fabricated precious metals, Cooksongold, the expert for directly 3D printed precious metals in the Heimerle + Meule Group has a deep understanding of the handling and manufacturing of precious metals and gemstones, stated Cooksongold. A report released earlier this year by market research provider SmarTech Markets Publishing LLC revealed that annual revenues from 3D-printed hardware, materials, services and software used in the jewellery industry is expected to top US$900 million in The report, 3D Printing Opportunities in the Jewelry Industry 2017: An Opportunity Analysis and Ten-Year Forecast, said 3D printing is finding its way into just about every aspect of jewellery manufacturing due to the widespread adoption of CAD software among jewellery designers. Even in traditional jewellery manufacturing with vulcanised silicon moulds, the initial model is often 3D printed using high-temperature resistant photopolymer resins. Jewellery prototyping for size and shape verification is complemented by the use of directly 3D printed wax and resin patterns for direct casting and serial manufacturing. The next evolutionary step is direct metal 3D printing, the report further said. JNA 41 OCT 2017

42 INNOVATIONS Pino Aliprandini breaks new ground in electroplating Pino Aliprandini s Orbit 1 machine is arguably the first desktop electroplater to be fully controlled by a mobile app. The machine will be made available through a crowdfunding campaign in November. By Olivia Quiniquini Orbit 1 desktop electroplater by Pino Aliprandini Pino Aliprandini is chalking up a number of firsts with its revolutionary electroplating machine, Orbit 1, which it previewed at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Controlled by a mobile app through a Bluetooth connection, the desktop electroplater does non-cyanide processing for pure gold, the three colours of karat gold, and silver. The app can control several machines at the same time, and since the parameters are all incorporated in the app, data can be saved for future use. According to Pino Aliprandini (HK) Ltd Managing Director Sam Chong, Orbit 1 is the first electroplating machine to be fully controlled by a mobile app. The machine only has an on/off switch and an emergency switch. Everything else including controls and functions is found in the app, he explained. Equipped with an automatic replenishing and maintenance function, Orbit 1 can take up to 5 litres of solution, said Chong. Weighing just 15 kilos, the machine s compact design allows for easy placement on work stations. We also highly recommend pairing the machine with 3D printing. Prototypes can be made by 3D printing and then electroplated right away in Orbit 1. Manufacturers can save time, money and effort by skipping the casting process. They can present their clients with prototypes faster and more efficiently, Chong noted. It took two years to develop the Orbit 1 machine, Chong disclosed. He added that the mobile app technology will eventually be extended to the company s electroforming machines. In arguably another industry first, Pino Aliprandini is running a Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign in November to generate orders and fund production of the machine. Chong said Orbit 1 will be available at a promotional price of around US$2,000 on Kickstarter, with deliveries scheduled for two to three months after the campaign ends. We are targeting around 100 orders through Kickstarter. Once the campaign is over, Orbit 1 will cost around US$3,000 per unit, he remarked. JNA 42 OCT 2017

43

44 FAIRS HAPPENINGS A world of sophistication at SEPTEMBER HK FAIR For 35 years, the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair has served as an effective business-to-business platform for vendors and professional buyers in the international jewellery and gemstone sector. The 2017 edition further cements the show s illustrious reputation with an impressive display of products, alongside relevant seminars and other initiatives. By Bernardette Sto. Domingo 1 The industry s most influential jewellery manufacturers, designers and gemstone experts gathered at the 35 th edition of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, held from September 13 to 19 in two world-class venues. Organised by UBM Asia Ltd, the show is considered one of the most important events on the global jewellery trade calendar. It celebrated its 35 th anniversary this year with a number of special events and programmes. It likewise offered outstanding attractions and networking opportunities designed to enhance face-to-face interactions between manufacturers, retail buyers, industry influencers and trade professionals, among others. More than 3,690 exhibitors from 56 countries and regions displayed their latest collections in more than 135,000 square metres of exhibition space. Gemstone dealers, diamond suppliers and pearl traders showcased their goods at the AsiaWorld- Expo from September 13 to 17 while jewellery manufacturers highlighted their latest collections at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from September 15 to 19. Dazzling finds Diamonds were among the highly sought-after products at the September Hong Kong Fair. Interviewed on the second day of the show, major JNA 44 OCT 2017

45 FAIRS HAPPENINGS Indian diamond producer Sheetal Manufacturing Co Pvt Ltd said it relied on its core products to attract target buyers. Chirag Kakadia of Sheetal said the company displayed market-specific products such as 30 and 50 pointers, and 1-carat stones, to cater to the Chinese market. Clients from the US, Europe and the Middle East also looked for 1-carat diamonds, revealed Kakadia. The company also showcased a newly launched mobile application aimed at making online diamond purchases more efficient. Buyers at the show were able to try the app to browse through Sheetal s extensive range of products. Top-grade coloured gemstones were likewise highly preferred at the show. Benjamin Hackman of Intercolor USA said buyers appetite for top-quality blue sapphires remain strong, with clients from major markets continuously placing orders at the show. An enchanting selection of garnets in bright to deep purple hues, meanwhile, took centre stage at the booth of Vivid Gems (HK). According to Milind Kala, director of Vivid Gems, the stone was discovered in Mozambique in 2016 and has since been capturing the attention of professional buyers Market response has been encouraging, he added, with the US market showing the most interest. Vivid Gems also offered an expansive range of alexandrites, sapphires and Burmese spinels, among others. 2 Inspired designs At the HKCEC, captivating creations with coloured gemstones and diamonds made waves among professional buyers. Brisk business was also recorded at the Packaging, Tools & Equipment Pavilion where suppliers fielded enquiries from jewellery manufacturers seeking the latest technology for their production needs. Pranda Group of Thailand said the Gem Collection, born from Pranda s partnership with French jeweller Gringoire, charmed buyers at the fair. 3 JNA 45 OCT 2017

46 FAIRS HAPPENINGS 7 8 According to Mina El Hadraoui, brand and managing director at Gringoire, the collection took inspiration from the highly inventive Art Deco era. Pieces from the collection, adorned with coloured gemstones in unique and innovative cuts, immortalise the sophisticated Parisian lifestyle. The collection was positively received, and buyers have started placing orders in time for Christmas, she added. Gemmologist Victor Tuzlukov of Pranda Group said he cut the stones specifically in a way that will inject three human components into the gems: Soul, spirit and body. Each piece speaks to the wearer as it helps her express her personality, noted Tuzlukov. The Gem Collection features two main lines, King and Rose. The King line draws inspiration from the majestic lion s head, artistically reinterpreted into captivating facets in citrines. The Rose line, meanwhile, highlights the creative combination of geometric lines and shapes that come together to form a blooming rose. Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Co (PNJ), for its part, wooed trade fair visitors with two cultureinspired jewellery collections that highlight the beauty of Vietnam. The company showcased Vietnam s iconic symbols bamboo and rice in its Lucky Log and Essence of Nature Collections respectively. The company targeted buyers from the US and Europe, particularly France, Denmark and Germany. Magerit of Spain, meanwhile, displayed its exceptional design and manufacturing prowess with a fine jewellery collection that pays homage to the origin of life and the grandeur of nature JNA 46 OCT 2017

47 FAIRS HAPPENINGS Antonio Calvo Garcia, commercial director of Magerit, said the Gea Collection features organic pieces that evoke blossoming flowers and rustling leaves, reimagined through the creative use of diamonds, topaz stones, sapphires and amethysts. At the crux of each piece is a woman, being reborn or exhibiting extraordinary charm and strength, according to Garcia. The collection s main piece is the Gea necklace in 18-karat gold, adorned with white and green diamonds, sapphires, black enamel and two tanzanite centre gems. The Gea Collection has been positively received by the market and we ve seen a lot of interest particularly from China, noted Garcia. Magerit is also displaying edgier pieces in gold and silver from the Shadow Collection, a reinvention of the company s iconic Puma Collection. According to the trade show organiser, the September Fair, which consistently showcases refined designs, thrilling innovations and an unmatched array of products, continues to have the resounding support of key industry players worldwide, with exhibitors acknowledging that the Fair serves as a powerful platform to grow their businesses. Buyers view the B2B show as a global marketplace where they can find just about anything, from finished jewellery and polished gemstones, to designs and materials. The wealth of concurrent special events, seminars, receptions and jewellery parades makes the fair an ideal platform to catch up on what s trending, gain industry insights and network with other industry players. Meet the international Gemworld in Munich. Visit us on Facebook 1. Brooch with baroque pearls and coloured gemstones by Lee Jewellery (HK) Ltd 2. Butterfly-inspired jewel by Busatti Milano Srl 3. Buyers inspecting goods at the show floor 4. Dr. Wuyi Wang, director of Research and Development at GIA, holds a seminar on synthetic diamond detection 5. Diamond and coloured gemstone brooch by Glamour Fine Jewelry 6. Professional buyers at the 35 th edition of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 7. The September HK Fair celebrates its 35 th anniversary this year 8. Bespoke Paraiba tourmaline necklace by Hatta New World Co Ltd 9. Thousands of buyers line up for registration at the show s opening at the AsiaWorld-Expo Europe s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn Diamond bangle by Universal Jewellery Co Ltd JNA 47 OCT 2017

48

49

50 FAIRS HAPPENINGS JNA AWARDS 2017 APPLAUDS INDUSTRY TRAILBLAZERS The best and the brightest in the jewellery industry were feted at the sixth annual JNA Awards. These companies and individuals, all paragons of leadership, innovation and sustainability, were recognised for their significant contributions to the international jewellery and gemstone business. The sixth annual JNA Awards shone the spotlight on 18 Award Recipients across 10 categories during its gala event at the InterContinental Hong Kong on September 14, 2017, on the sidelines of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Thirty-five Honourees or shortlisted candidates that serve as shining examples of the best that the gemstone and jewellery sector has to offer were also recognised at the exclusive ceremony attended by key industry decision-makers and influencers. The gala celebration, one of the most important events on the annual jewellery trade calendar, received the full support of business leaders and various government representatives. Organised by UBM Asia, the JNA Awards champions best business practices in the jewellery and gemstone community by recognising and promoting companies and individuals that demonstrate brilliant leadership, innovative thinking, and successful sustainable and socially responsible strategies. Firmin Robert Wan, the Pearl Emperor of Tahiti, and Jacques Branellec, a pioneer in the cultivation of the golden South Sea pearl, were the recipients of the 2017 JNA Awards highest accolade, the Lifetime Achievement Award. This also marked the first time that the awards programme presented the Lifetime Achievement Award to two individuals. Wan, founder of the Robert Wan Group, is widely credited for bringing the Tahitian pearl to the forefront of the fine jewellery industry. Branellec, who co-founded Jewelmer with Filipino entrepreneur Manuel Cojuangco, is known for his groundbreaking work in the cultivation of golden South Sea pearls. Letitia Chow, chairperson of the JNA Awards, founder of JNA and director of Business Development Jewellery Group at UBM Asia, commented, Our Honouree companies and individuals this year have all demonstrated extraordinary leadership, and serve as brilliant examples of what can be achieved if one is bold enough to break new and innovative grounds. Every single company or individual who participated in this year s Awards has shown the core values that make our industry great, and for that, they truly deserve our most heartfelt congratulations. JNA 50 OCT 2017

51 FAIRS HAPPENINGS The 18 Award Recipients across 10 categories 1. Brand of the Year Retail Goldendew Co Ltd South Korea Tanaka Kikinzoku Jewelry K K Japan 2. Retailer of the Year (450 outlets and below) SK Jewellery Pte Ltd Singapore 3. esupplier of the Year Kela China Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd India 4. Manufacturer of the Year Jewellery KGK Group Hong Kong Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry Co Ltd China 5. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year ASEAN Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company Vietnam 6. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year Greater China HIERSUN China Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd China 7. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year India Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd India 8. Industry Innovation of the Year 3D Jewellery Company Ltd China Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd Hong Kong Gübelin Gem Lab Ltd Switzerland Shenzhen Lingchengben Technology Co Ltd China 9. Sustainability Initiative of the Year Pandora Production Co Ltd Thailand 10. Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below) Mr Zhang Guo Tao, Shenzhen Darry Jewelry Co Ltd China Mr Chau Tsankwan, Shenzhen Batar Investment Holding Group Co Ltd China Firmin Robert Wan Jacques Branellec Letitia Chow Kent Wong Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd, remarked, Being a JNA Awards Headline Partner for six consecutive years, we are guided by our unwavering commitment to drive the jewellery industry forward. Together with our fellow Partners, I believe that we can foster the sustainable development of the jewellery industry by upholding best business practices and encouraging creativity and innovation. Lin Qiang, president and managing director of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE), added, SDE is very proud to have been a solid partner of the JNA Awards since its inception six years ago. We believe our industry becomes stronger when we work together to achieve our common goals. The JNA Awards provides a great showcase of these common goals by recognising excellence, promoting high standards and upholding best business practices. These are the key elements to keeping the jewellery industry robust and prosperous. In addition to the Headline Partners, Chow Tai Fook and SDE, the JNA Awards 2017 was supported by Honoured Partners KGK Group, Rio Tinto Diamonds, Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange, and Guangdong Land Holdings Limited. Lin Qiang JNA 51 OCT 2017

52 FAIRS HAPPENINGS UBM Asia officials and JNA Awards judges, partners and Award Recipients at the 2017 Awards Ceremony and Gala Dinner Industry Innovation of the Year - Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd Outstanding Enterprise of the Year - ASEAN - Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company esupplier of the Year - Kela Lifetime Achievement Award - Firmin Robert Wan and Jacques Branellec Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below) - Chau Tsankwan, Shenzhen Batar Investment Holding Group Co Ltd Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below) - Zhang Guo Tao, Shenzhen Darry Jewelry Co Ltd JNA 52 OCT 2017

53 FAIRS HAPPENINGS Brand of the Year - Retail - Tanaka Kikinzoku Jewelry K K Industry Innovation of the Year - Gübelin Gem Lab Ltd Sustainability Initiative of the Year - Pandora Production Co Ltd Outstanding Enterprise of the Year - Greater China - Hiersun Brand of the Year - Retail - Goldendew Co Ltd Manufacturer of the Year - Jewellery - KGK Group Outstanding Enterprise of the Year India - Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd esupplier of the Year - Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd Industry Innovation of the Year - 3D Jewellery Company Ltd Manufacturer of the Year - Jewellery - Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry Co Ltd Industry Innovation of the Year - Shenzhen Lingchengben Technology Co Ltd Outstanding Enterprise of the Year - Greater China - Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd Retailer of the Year (450 outlets and below) - SK Jewellery Pte Ltd JNA 53 OCT 2017

54

55

56