Greater China 18 Crossover events motivate, upgrade Shuibei s jewellery industry 21 Festival shines spotlight on Da Luo Tang s jewellery sector

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3 In the Issue number 395 CONTENTS July 2017 issue Trade Fairs 43 Fine gems, innovative designs shine at June HK Fair 46 Trendy collections, gems glitter at Las Vegas show Pearls 50 Japan intensifies global pearl promotion 51 Japan showcases Filipino artistry with Rajo Laurel and Jewelmer Jorge Vazquez / Image.net by Getty Images Gemstones 53 Dealers see sparkling demand outlook for emeralds 58 Sri Lanka turns spotlight on fine gems and jewellery News 5 JNA Awards announces 2017 Honourees 6 Next-gen jewellery designs to take centre stage at GIT competition 7 International retailer unveils latest tanzanite jewellery line JNA Style File 10 Sweet inspiration 12 Height of elegance 14 Totem Collection Greater China 18 Crossover events motivate, upgrade Shuibei s jewellery industry 21 Festival shines spotlight on Da Luo Tang s jewellery sector Jewellery 24 French jewellers display artistry and sophistication 27 HK jeweller banks on market diversification to sustain growth 30 King Fook stays true to its brand heritage 34 Thai jeweller underscores enduring designs Conversations 36 Shamballa s mystic journey Diamonds 60 A love affair with diamonds 64 Dominion reveals CanadaMark Jewellery Design Competition winner 65 Venus Jewel launches user-friendly mobile App 66 SRK unveils new brand promise, e-commerce portal 67 GIA develops app for modern consumers 68 Forevermark captures eternal love with latest collections 69 Alrosa to strengthen focus on market leadership and business muscle 70 De Beers Group announces plans to invest in start-ups Design 38 Marie Mas: Jewels of movement Technology 40 Jewellery tools trader remains resourceful amid uncertainties 41 Manufacturer presents 3D resin printer 42 Modern jewellery photography solutions from Flex Line In Love With Platinum 16 In Eternal love with Platinum Next issue Major manufacturers, brands and gemstone dealers share their perspectives and insights about the US jewellery market. * All figures in this publication are in US dollars unless otherwise stated. On the Cover 12 Butterfly brooch in titanium set with an icy jadeite centre gem, moonstone cabochons, diamonds and enamel by Shirley Zhang of Shenzhen HEMEI Art Design Co Ltd. To know more about Zhang s fine creations, turn to page 6. July

4 Published by UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) Fax: (852) Group Publisher EDITORIAL Editor Assistant Editor Staff Writers Irene Foo Marie Feliciano Bernardette Sto. Domingo Christie Dang, Olivia Quiniquini, Sze Man Young, Dodo To (Shenzhen) SALES Head of Sales, Regional Advertising Manager Account Manager Christine Sinn Tina Hui Jennifer Chan MARKETING AND CIRCULATION Senior Marketing Executive Grace Tam Senior Circulation Executive Lonita Hui ONLINE & SOCIAL MEDIA Assistant Marketing Manager Winkle Yim Senior Marketing Executive Althea Long Online Specialist Pansy Lo PRODUCTION Senior Production Manager Designer Advertising Administration Jessie Quek Armando Recio Eva So REPRESENTATIVE OFFICES China: Japan: Korea: Taiwan: Thailand: Wendy Yip, UBM China (Guangzhou) Co Ltd Tel: (86) Fax: (86) Shenzhen Office Tel: (86) Fax: (86) Nobuaki Nito, UBM Japan Co Ltd, Tel: (81) Fax: (81) nobuaki.nito@ubm.com Sue S J Seo, UBM Korea Corporation Tel: (82) Fax: (82) sue.seo@ubm.com Sabine Liu, UBM Asia Ltd - Taiwan Branch Tel: (886) Fax: (886) sabine.liu@ubm.com Anuchana Vichvech, UBM Asia (Thailand) Co Ltd Tel: (66) Fax: (66) anna.v@ubm.com ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVE Italy: Mauro Arati, Studio Luciano Arati sas, Largo Camus, 1, Milano - Italy Tel: (39) Fax: (39) info@studioarati.it President & CEO Senior Vice President Founder Jimé Essink Wolfram Diener Letitia Chow Mei Lai Copyright Contents of Jewellery News Asia are copyright. Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorisation of the publisher. Jewellery News Asia is published in Hong Kong each month and is available on subscription. Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong.

5 NEWS JNA Awards announces 2017 Honourees JNA Awards 2017 Honourees Brand of the Year Retail Goldendew Co Ltd South Korea Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd China Soft Touch Jewellers LLC United Arab Emirates Tanaka Kikinzoku Jewelry K K Japan esupplier of the Year Kela China Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd India Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd India Jim Li of Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange; Caroline Yuen of Shanghai Diamond Exchange; Peter Suen of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group; Wolfram Diener of UBM Asia; Letitia Chow of UBM Asia; Rita Maltez of Rio Tinto Diamonds; Abhishek Parekh of KGK Group and Liu Zheng of Guangdong Land Holdings The JNA Awards has announced its highly anticipated list of Honourees or finalists across 10 categories at a news conference held on the sidelines of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. The event, now in its sixth year, is a premier awards programme that recognises and celebrates excellence and achievement in the jewellery and gemstone industry, with a focus on advancing the trade in Asia. This year, close to 100 highly qualified entries from 13 countries and regions, namely China, Fiji, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, United Arab Emirates and Vietnam, were received. The categories that drew the most number of entries were the Industry Innovation of the Year, Brand of the Year Retail and Young Entrepreneur of the Year. Letitia Chow, chairperson of the JNA Awards and director of Business Development Jewellery Group at UBM Asia, remarked, It is very motivating to see another year with record-breaking entry numbers, with first-time entrants accounting for 22 percent of the applications. Nowadays, companies have to innovate, not only to thrive, but to survive. The impact of innovation is evident in different aspects of production, including marketing, supply chain management, gem and metal technologies, product development and business strategies. The 2017 independent judging panel consisted of industry experts namely Albert Cheng, advisor to the World Gold Council, Far East (WGC); James Courage, former chief executive of Platinum Guild International and former chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council; Lin Qiang, president and managing director of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE); Nirupa Bhatt, managing director of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in India and the Middle East; Yasukazu Suwa, chairman of Suwa & Son, Inc of Japan; and Mark Lee, research director of Asia Pacific Institute for Strategy (APIFS). continued on page 7 Industry Innovation of the Year 3D Jewellery Company Ltd China Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co Ltd Hong Kong Gübelin Gem Lab Ltd Switzerland Shenzhen Lingchengben Technology Corporation Ltd China Shenzhen Perfect Love Diamond Co Ltd China Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd China Voguegold Jewellery China Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd China Manufacturer of the Year Jewellery KGK Group Hong Kong Shenzhen Foreway Group Co Ltd China Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry Co Ltd China Shenzhen Gemhorn Jewelry Co Ltd China Outstanding Enterprise of the Year ASEAN China Stone Co Ltd Thailand Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company Vietnam Tomei Consolidated Berhad Malaysia Outstanding Enterprise of the Year Greater China Gold Dragon Jewellery Group Holdings Ltd China Hiersun China Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd China Shenzhen Xingguangda Jewelry Industrial Co Ltd China Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd China Outstanding Enterprise of the Year India KGK Diajewels India Pvt Ltd India Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd India RMC Gems India Ltd India Retailer of the Year (450 outlets and below) Kashi Jewellers India Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company Vietnam SK Jewellery Pte Ltd Singapore Tomei Consolidated Berhad Malaysia Sustainability Initiative of the Year J Hunter Pearls Fiji KGK Diajewels India Pvt Ltd India PANDORA Production Co Ltd Thailand Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below) Mr Rihen Mehta, 7Cs Group United Arab Emirates Mr Zhou Can Kun, Shenzhen Batar Investment Holding Group Co Ltd China Mr Zhang Guo Tao, Shenzhen Darry Jewelry Co Ltd China Ms Qi Xiaoman, Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd China 5

6 NEWS Next-gen jewellery designs to take centre stage at GIT competition Organised by the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT), the Eleventh Gem and Jewelry Design Contest and the First Gem-Cutting Competition are Rachane Potjanasuntorn, chairman of the board of executive directors of the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, at the press conference on the Eleventh Gem and Jewelry Design Contest and the First Gem-Cutting Competition providing an international platform to next-generation designers to showcase their talents and eventually contribute to Thailand s gem and jewellery sectors. The jewellery design contest s theme is Illusion through the Gemstones Where the Mystery of Your Design Begins. The winner will be given the Royal Shield Award by HRH Princess Chulabhorn Walailak and a grand prize of 500,000 Baht (around $14,600). According to GIT, the main objective of the contest is to encourage budding designers to showcase their designs to local and international audiences. The competition was set up to also serve as a platform to exchange ideas with international participants. The winner s design will also be produced by GIT or other sponsors, noted the institute. GIT is also organising the First Gem-Cutting Competition for the first time to give an opportunity to Thai students and lapidaries to improve their skills and be able to compete internationally. The institute likewise announced the members of its judging committee, which includes experts in the fashion, gemstone and jewellery sectors. The judges for the Eleventh Gem and Jewelry Design Contest are Suriyon Sriorathaikul, managing director of Beauty Gems Group (Thailand); Nisan Ongwuthitham, founder and owner of Ong Jewelry Design (Thailand); Wunporn Poshyanond, editor-in-chief of Harper s Bazaar Thailand; Alessio Boschi, jewellery designer at Alessio Boschi (Italy); Sirapat Pipatveeravat, marketing director of Dermond Anandara; and Thadchawin Suraseth, managing director of LS Jewelry Group. JNA Shirley Zhang enchants with nature-inspired enamel jewellery Jewellery designer Shirley Zhang is bringing the enigmatic appeal of enamel jewellery to the fore with her latest creations launched under Artoriz, a jewellery brand that supports independent designers and designer brands. Zhang, founder of Shenzhen HEMEI Art Design Co Ltd (H-ADC) and creative director of HEMEI Group, has made a name for herself as an enamel jewellery designer. Founded in 2016, H-ADC strives to redefine designer labels and help global independent designers implement and actualise their own businesses. Fine enamel jewellery by Shirley Zhang for Artoriz Having won several awards around the world, Zhang specialises in enamelling. She draws inspiration from nature and traditional cultural elements, and her creative process is heavily influenced by the distinctive properties of the materials she uses. The designer s technique, combined with artistic colour compositions, results in one-of-akind pieces. H-ADC has so far liaised with about 50 global independent designers, including French jewellery designers Marie Paule Quercy and Marie Pierre Canivet; Sarah Graham, Anthony Lent and Zheng Yexuan. JNA 6

7 NEWS International retailer unveils latest tanzanite jewellery line Tanzanite is the star of a new fine jewellery collection under the Safi Kilima Tanzanite brand, which is exclusively available at jewellery retailer Diamonds International. Diamonds International is a privately held jewellery retailer in the Caribbean, Mexico and Alaska. Safi Kilima Tanzanite, launched 10 years ago, introduced the Forget Me Not Collection, which features tanzanites resembling the Alaskan flower on a pendant and earrings. Forget Me Not earrings adorned with tanzanites The collection is offered in a variety of carat sizes, according to Diamonds International. The WOW Collection, meanwhile, offers timeless designs combined with modern-day sophistication. Safi Kilima Tanzanite s Spring/Summer 2017 jewellery collections embody a tanzanite s rarity and pay homage to the stone s classic roots. The overall style is strong silhouettes. The brand is aiming to promote love for tanzanite as the industry celebrates tanzanite s discovery 50 years ago. Tanzanite is being marketed as thousand times rarer than diamonds with a little over a decade of supply remaining. Safi Kilima Tanzanite offers everyone a chance to acquire a Tanzanite couture ring Tanzanite necklace from the WOW Collection. All jewellery products by Safi Kilima Tanzanite piece of history. We are calling this #TheYearofSafi as we continue to raise awareness and help commemorate the 50 th anniversary of tanzanite, noted Danielle Riesel, Safi Kilima Tanzanite s director of marketing. JNA JNA Awards... from page 5 WGC s Cheng said, I am happy to see increased participation this year, especially from Southeast Asia and China. Although this creates more debate for the judging panel, it helps further strengthen the Awards. The quality and geographical breadth of this year s entrants confirm the relevance of such awards, reflecting the focus of the region s push on innovative and evolving technical and environmental developments, while increasing the importance of consumer responsibility and creative marketing, Courage commented. The shortlisted entries not only demonstrate solid achievements and effective approaches in problem-solving, they also set examples of good leadership, noted Lin of SDE. GIA s Bhatt shared, It is encouraging to see the high quality of entries, which makes our responsibility as judges more challenging and exciting. Recognition like this inspires entrants to further grow their talent and accelerate the pace of innovation. Lee of APIFS added, The JNA Awards is an excellent platform to showcase the industry s development and successes. It s very impressive to see the participants passion, innovation and contribution to the trade. The winners will be announced at the JNA Awards Ceremony and Gala Dinner scheduled for September 14 during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. The 2017 edition of the JNA Awards is supported by Headline Partner Chow Tai Fook and Honoured Partners KGK, Rio Tinto Diamonds, SDE, Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange, and Guangdong Land Holdings Ltd. JNA 7

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10 JNA STYLE FILE Sweet inspiration Designer Jorge Vazquez, one of the essential names in Spain s fashion scene, once again impresses with a collection that combines understated elegance and wearability. Soft, graceful and playful, these Fall/Winter looks are also evident in the world of fine jewellery

11 JNA STYLE FILE This bold ring is from Magerit s Babylon Collection 2. Ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and freshwater pearls from Utopia s Aqua Collection 3. & 4. Ruby pendant and sapphire earrings from Stenzhorn s Bee Mine Collection 5. Coralia ring with a Paraiba tourmaline centre gem by Italian Design 6. A pair of coloured gemstone earrings by Giovanni Ferraris Photo credit: Runway photos from the Jorge Vazquez show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. All pictures provided by Image.net by Getty Images

12 JNA STYLE FILE 1 2 Height of elegance Valencian designer Juan Vidal celebrates feminine elegance in a collection that showcases his mastery of creating structured and layered looks with subtle details such as feathers, flowers and fringes. The colour palette is dominated by black, green and gold shades ideal for fall and winter. Perfectly enhancing this collection are these opulent jewellery pieces by some of the world s most renowned brands. 3 12

13 JNA STYLE FILE & 2. Ring and earrings from Brumani s Laces Collection. The collection is created by Brazilian designer Lethicia Bronstein exclusively for Brumani, and includes rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets in three different versions: Pink gold with white and champagne diamonds, white gold with diamonds and blue sapphires, and white gold with diamonds and pearls 3. Fabergé offers a playful interpretation of a popular, stackable accessory the bangle. The Fabergé bangles are a series of comfort-fit open-set bangles, available in white, yellow and rose gold, and adorned with Fabergé s iconic egg-shaped design element 4. Minuendo pendants by Minù, Giovanni Ferraris easy-to-wear jewellery line. Fresh, contemporary and colourful, Minù has a charm all its own 5. The Bohème diamond necklace from Gellner embodies everything that today s confident woman could wish for. With attention to detail and casual elegance, the unconventional loop chain in 18-karat rose gold ensures an impressive appearance. The detailed decoration with numerous, delicate diamond roses and finely facetted diamond briolettes lends an air of colourful playfulness to the voluminous necklace Photo credit: Runway photos from the Juan Vidal show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. All pictures provided by Image.net by Getty Images 13

14 JNA STYLE FILE 1 Totem Collection Designer Ulises Merida pays homage to women everywhere with his Totem Collection. The opulent line features vertical and twisty silhouettes, with large enveloping pieces that define the protective, spiritual and sometimes mystical qualities of a woman. Thick fabrics with marked textures including woven mohair cloths, thick knitted fabrics mixed with leather, technologically woven materials and sequins that give the fabric an armour-like appearance are prevalent in the collection. All of them coexist with light fabrics such as satin and silk weaves, laminated cloths with a litmus appearance or tricot knits with a lurex base. The colours reflect an autumnal nature that is based on the most intense blacks and browns, with touches of dry green, Persian orange and iridescent purple. Perfectly mirroring Merida s collection are these fine jewels that remind one of fall s myriad hues. 14

15 JNA STYLE FILE Pearl ring from Autore s Timeless Collection 2. Serpenti Viper rings with demi pavé diamonds by Bulgari 3, 4. & 5. Moselle Collection by Atelier Swarovski. The Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry Collection was created exclusively for the red carpet. Retail delineations of the pieces will be available in Pearl pendant from Autore s Timeless Collection 7. Divas Dream Gioco e Vanita high jewellery earrings in pink gold with two amethyst beads, four rubellite beads (6.84 carats), four mandarin garnet beads (7.53 carats), round brilliant-cut and pavé diamonds (2.30 carats) by Bulgari Photo credit: Runway photos from the Ulises Merida show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. All pictures provided by Image.net by Getty Images

16 IN LOVE WITH PLATINUM In Eternal love with Platinum PGI unveils Chinese Actor Yang Yang as New Ambassador Platinum Guild International (PGI ) recently announced the appointment of its new brand ambassador and the launch of its latest platinum jewellery line. According to PGI, Chinese actor Yang Yang has been named as its new ambassador. The 25-year-old actor, who went from being a dancer to one of the brightest stars in mainland China, is a dream chaser who always stays true to himself. PGI believes Yang s wholeheartedness and determination have made him the perfect candidate to represent the brand values that platinum possesses. During the shooting of the advertisement, In Eternal Love with Platinum, Yang shared Photo provided by PGI his thoughts on eternal love. According to him, love is all about persistence. It is important to keep on expressing love to make it last forever. In this regard, platinum is a medium that can stand the test of time and bear witness to the best moments in one s life. This is also why Yang is fascinated by the metal. Platinum: Pure and enduring Yang s determination to strive for the best is what makes him special. Although touted as a crowd favourite, a magnet for viewers and the most popular male artist in mainland China, he remains humble and believes there is always room for improvement. Similar to rare platinum, which is painstakingly extracted from ore, Yang is now displaying his brilliance following years of sheer hard work and perseverance. Over the years, PGI has committed itself to promoting platinum among Chinese consumers. Thanks to its efforts, platinum is now known as the metal of love, which symbolises purity and eternity. Looking forward, PGI will further strengthen its emphasis on product design to add diversity to its offerings and cater to consumers needs. It also aspires to become a trendsetter in the platinum jewellery category to connect with consumers on an emotional level. New Platinum Jewellery Selection by PGI The Dandelion Platinum Jewellery Collection Inspired by the fragility of dandelions Although not as splendid as blooming flowers, the dandelion flourishes in its own way regardless of its habitat. Much like the dandelion, platinum is also an emblem of love and vitality. The collection s platinum dandelion design, which symbolises endless love, represents one s pledge to an enduring lifetime commitment. Dandelion Platinum Collection - necklace 16

17 IN LOVE WITH PLATINUM Engrave your endless love in platinum Platinum is considered by lovers as a symbol of love and commitment for its purity and timeless characteristics. Its durability and ductility also make it an ideal material for jewellery artisans to showcase their skills, harnessing their creativity to turn a design inspiration into a work of art. With great tenacity, platinum allows diamonds to be mounted firmly. Its pure white hue also sets off the lustre of diamonds in the best possible way. PGI launched the Dandelion Platinum Jewellery Collection in the presence of its new ambassador, Yang. By capturing the beauty and essence of dandelions fluttering in the air, PGI succeeded in creating a collection that represents a true celebration of eternal love. [Facts about platinum] Q: How do I know if a piece of jewellery is made of genuine platinum? A: The easiest way is to ensure that the jewellery you bought carries the Pt or 鉑 mark. The mark is like the identity card of platinum. Only jewellery with Pt marks are genuine platinum jewellery. According to Chinese national standards, each piece of platinum jewellery must carry a Pt mark with the purity information indicated. For example, Pt900 or 鉑 900 signifies a purity of 900, while 足鉑 indicates a purity of more than 990. JNA Photo provided by PGI Dandelion Platinum Collection - bracelet Dandelion Platinum Collection - earrings About PGI Platinum Guild International (PGI ) was founded in 1975 and is a trade organization supported by the major South African platinum producers. PGI has specialist teams dedicated to developing demand for platinum jewelry through consumer and trade facing programmes in the four key jewelry markets of China, India, Japan and the United States. In China, PGI works to cultivate and guide Chinese consumers passion for platinum jewelry by providing a full range of support to promote the local platinum jewelry industry, and has achieved great results. In 2000, China became the biggest market for platinum jewelry in the world. 17

18 GREATER CHINA Crossover events motivate, upgrade Shuibei s jewellery industry The Dream Blues crown by Liu Fei Shuibei s jewellery industry is determined to make a comeback and strengthen its role as the hub of China s jewellery industry. To achieve this, industry stakeholders are collaborating with other sectors to create synergy through a series of crossover events. The 2017 Crossover Fashion Show was recently held at the International Business Center (IBC) in the Shuibei region of Shenzhen, China. Parties from different sectors pooled their talents and resources to stage the show. Amidst dazzling visual effects created by Shenzhen s technology companies, models from New Silkroutes Group Ltd (New Silkroutes) ruled the catwalk in elegant gowns from Shenzhen Fashion Week, accented by stunning jewellery pieces provided by publicly listed companies. The revitalisation of the Shuibei jewellery hub is slowly but gradually gaining momentum. Apart from improvements in product design, craftsmanship, corporate management and operations, the inauguration of IBC provided the necessary hardware for the upgrade of industry-related support services. IBC is also hoping to transform itself into Shenzhen s fashion centre by consolidating resources in the jewellery, fashion, culture, finance and technology sectors. It is Opening ceremony of the Shenzhen International Cultural Industry Fair Shuibei Jewellery Parallel Session 18

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20 GREATER CHINA believed that the influx of resources and professionals with new perspectives and vision will contribute to the growth and development of the jewellery industry. The concept of harnessing resources residing in various sectors is not a new idea. Inter-industry convergence and resources-sharing are an effective way of improving efficiency. It is also a driving force in the development of the gold jewellery industry and jewellery consumption, Zuo Jin Ping, deputy mayor of the Luohu District Government, said at the opening ceremony of the Shenzhen International Cultural Industry Fair Shuibei Jewellery Parallel Session. Crossover events like fashion shows serve as effective platforms for various industries to communicate and collaborate. IBC President Lu Li Hang pointed out that these events will help them explore new business and profit models. By enhancing brand experiences and interaction through technological means, it is hoped that this could promote the sector, drive consumption and make fashion a part of daily life. As such, IBC has entered into agreements with leading companies and institutions in the fashion, finance and technology industries during the show. The list included the Shenzhen Garment Industry Association, Guangdong Development Bank Shenzhen Branch and the HTC VIVE VR Club. Unveiling the Dream Blues crown Miss World 2017 and the New Silkroutes China Model Contest were the results of a strategic agreement between IBC and New Silkroutes. The Dream Blues crown was created for the latter competition. The crown, adorned with an 88-carat sapphire, was designed by Liu Fei, a graduate of the School of Jewellery of Birmingham City University and a multi-awarded designer. Inspired by the city of Dunhuang, one of the important stations in the old Silk Road, the crown symbolises the fusion of cultures between the East and the West. By using the ribbon-themed design enhanced by graduating colours, the crown represents a bond between the two cultures, which also reflects the vision of Belt and Road and the crossover cooperation between IBC and New Silkroutes. Liu hopes that his creation could, to a greater extent, help gain recognition for China s industries and cultural heritage on the international stage. Expanding market share Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd (Ideal) was one of the six publicly listed companies that participated in the Crossover Fashion Show. According to company The 2017 Crossover Fashion Show wins industry support general manager Miao Zhi Guo, Ideal has been exploring the crossover concept for some time now to meet consumer needs. For it to work, the crossover strategy must be practical, which means the concept itself must have commercial possibilities either as a product or a service, said Miao. He also pointed out that this concept is environmentally friendly since resources will be reallocated or reused. Ideal s crossover to the wedding photography field has been a success so far. The company initially invested RMB1.4 million ($205,000) setting up stores at wedding photography studios. Today, the business generates RMB1 million (about $150,000) in turnover each month. Identifying its target audience is the reason behind Ideal s success. According to the company, couples visit wedding photography studios an average of six times, much higher than the number of times they visit jewellery stores. This created opportunities for the manufacturer to introduce its products and engage with clients. Ideal is planning to open 2,000 to 3,000 stores at wedding photography studios across mainland China within the next two to three years. Consumers of the post-80s and 90s generations are its target audience since these groups favour trendy jewellery collections. Ideal is also teaming up with artists in creating a fine jewellery collection inspired by masterpieces of renowned traditional Chinese painters. Connoisseurs collect artworks; they also purchase jewellery, said Miao. The combination of fine art and jewellery is a new business concept that we are exploring. JNA 20

21 GREATER CHINA Festival shines spotlight on Da Luo Tang s jewellery sector Panyu, located in China s Guangdong Province, is one of the primary jewellery industry clusters in the world. The sector took root in Panyu more than 30 years ago, transforming the province into the country s jewellery production and export centre. Today, it is fortifying its position as a global powerhouse in jewellery production and exports. Referred to as Jewellery Town by many, Panyu s Da Luo Tang is located right in the heart of the jewellery district. With more than 300 jewellery processing companies and over 2,000 jewellery retailers, the district is home to over 50,000 jewellery practitioners. Da Luo Tang accounts for approximately 30 percent and 70 percent of global and Hong Kong-Macau region jewellery production, respectively. To further strengthen its influence in the domestic jewellery market, Da Luo Tang s local government and industry stakeholders are reinvigorating the sector through infrastructure development. Recently, a memorial arch in Jewellery Town was unveiled as part of the second Da Luo Tang Jewellery Festival. The inauguration of the memorial arch in Da Luo Tang s Jewellery Town Revolving around the theme, Heritage, Ingenuity and Quality, the festival features a number of attractions including an exhibition, jewellery workshops and free jewellery appraisals. According to organisers, the festival succeeded in raising public awareness and interest in the district s jewellery industry. The event, which was presented like a carnival, did not only improve consumer confidence; it also encouraged creativity and strengthened the bond and collaboration between the production and marketing teams. As the community grew bigger, Da Luo Tang has set up the Committee of Jewellery The second Da Luo Tang Jewellery Festival is a significant event for the local jewellery industry Design and Craftsmanship, which is awarding 20 artisans for their ingenuity, pursuit of creativity and for promoting innovation. Industry alliance The Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macau Bay Area Jewellery Industry Alliance, co-initiated by the Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange and the Guangzhou Diamond Exchange, was launched at the festival. The Guangdong-Hong Kong- Macau Bay Area has an important role in China s jewellery industry, according to trade leaders, who noted that the establishment of the alliance was a reaction to the government s call to deepen cooperation among industry stakeholders in the region. By working as a team, members of the alliance can achieve synergy to strengthen the industry in terms of communication, resourcessharing, business cooperation and the promotion of best business practices. The industry will also benefit from greater support from the government, which can lead to the promotion of policy and system reforms. JNA 21

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24 JEWELLERY French jewellers display artistry and sophistication By Bernardette Sto. Domingo French jewellers exceptional designs and unparalleled craftsmanship further cement France s reputation as a centre of glamour and the creative arts. Backed by decades of expertise in jewellery manufacturing, French jewellery houses have a proven track record in the global fine jewellery industry, constantly making waves in the gold, diamond, coloured gemstone and pearl jewellery sectors. JNA sat down with renowned maisons Arthus- Bertrand, Commelin, Group Schmitgall, Loris Paris and Joïa to talk about their core products, business strategies and France s illustrious role in the fine jewellery world. Merovee pendant and earring in 18-karat gold by Commelin of Arthus- Bertrand Arthus-Bertrand and Commelin Established in 1803, Arthus-Bertrand specialises in the manufacture of various products including medals and insignias. The company eventually transitioned to production of gold, silver and gem-set jewellery although medals and decorations remain a vital part of its business. Its design philosophy is mainly anchored upon a fusion of modernity and timelessness, injecting every Arthus- Bertrand piece with a one-of-a-kind character and charisma. At the beginning of 2017, the company merged with Commelin, one of the oldest French manufacturers of charms and a specialist in translucent enamel, according to Isabelle Latour of Arthus-Bertrand and Commelin. Since 1880, Commelin has made a name for itself in enamelling 18-karat gold medals and fine jewellery. The jeweller manufactures nearly 2,000 different types of charms. Commelin s creations stand out because the enamel changes its colour depending on the intensity of light, added Latour. Astre Royal necklace and bracelet by Commelin of Arthus-Bertrand 24

25 JEWELLERY These two companies are now at the forefront of fine jewellery-making in France, with emphasis on enamel jewellery in 18-karat gold. Each piece is handmade with enamel and truly outstanding, noted Latour. After the companies merged, we now have a unified design philosophy, which is the use of enamel in classic designs with a contemporary twist. This is what the companies represent. Among the latest fine jewellery lines launched by Commelin for Arthus-Bertrand is the Commelin Collection, which includes pieces resembling a stained glass window, and the Wheel of Time Collection, which centres on multidimensional enamel jewellery that takes inspiration from night and day. According to Latour, Arthus-Bertrand is aiming to capture the Asian market with its latest collections. Commelin used to sell in Japan while Arthus- Bertrand has a strong customer base in Europe and France, the company official said. Asia has a huge potential for us because Asian buyers love enamel. So far, we ve seen quite an interest in our designs, with prospective clients telling us they were very impressed with the technique. Arthus-Bertrand and Commelin are setting their sights on Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, Singapore and mainland China. The company executive described French-made jewellery as artistic and charming, and is able to capture sophistication without being ostentatious. We go for subtlety, uniqueness and elegance in our designs. Latour also expressed optimism about growth prospects in the jewellery industry after a challenging The storm has passed and we re seeing signs of gradual recovery in the market, she continued. gemstones. We have since been exporting to Asia, revealed Pinot. The company has a store in Tokyo, Japan, and a distributor for China, which runs 700 shops, he added. We exhibit in Tokyo and Hong Kong in March and September. We also participate in BaselWorld, which is the most important show for us, continued the company official. The jeweller s major markets are Europe; Asia, with a strong focus on China and Japan; and the Middle East. Ring with diamonds and We want to focus Akoya pearls by Pacoma Paris on our core markets at the moment but we would like to further strengthen our presence in the US in the future. Since we exhibit in Basel, we ve had some customers from the US, Canada and South America, stated Pinot. Calligrapher ring Groupe Schmittgall s main with an Australian products, under the Pacoma Paris South Sea pearl brand, are pearl and diamond centre gem and jewellery. Most recently, the diamond accents company has broadened its by Pacoma Paris portfolio to include a new collection of purely diamond and coloured gemstone pieces, also under the Pacoma Paris brand. Groupe Schmittgall Gaëtan Pinot, owner of Groupe Schmittgall, has a mission: To immortalise Paris opulence and flair through fine jewellery. The company, founded in 1926, is behind the Pacoma Paris brand, which was launched in According to Pinot, Pacoma Paris perfectly embodies Parisian elegance in its predominantly pearl and diamond jewellery collections. We were initially focused on the pearl business since the company s establishment but we have since expanded into gem-set jewellery after I bought a company that specialises in diamonds and coloured Tahitian pearl bracelet by Pacoma Paris 25

26 JEWELLERY Loris Khorchidian of Loris Paris We always come out with new collections to keep our inventory fresh and interesting. There s one collection that pays homage to Paris as an artistic hub. The collection celebrates theatre and the arts, noted Pinot. The company uses South Sea, Tahitian and Japanese Akoya pearls, G-colour diamonds of VS clarity grade, as well as blue, pink and yellow sapphires. We have a solid reputation in the pearl business since we have been in the industry for many decades. At the same time, our diamond and coloured gemstone business is likewise gaining ground in the industry, he remarked. My competitive advantage lies in my expertise; this is my edge. Pinot also maintained an upbeat outlook for 2017, citing expansion initiatives that the company is undertaking. I definitely see an improvement from last year. We already opened new shops in Paris. We are planning to open a boutique in Hong Kong and another one in Tokyo within the next two years, he disclosed. Loris Paris Loris Paris is a family-owned enterprise that focuses on fine diamond jewellery. At the helm of the business is third-generation family member Loris Khorchidian, who describes himself as a hands-on jeweller. The company was established in My grandfather built this company, which I m now heading. I make sure that I have an active involvement in the overall process, from design to production, commented Khorchidian. Our company s competitive advantage is that all our products are 100 percent made in Paris, from conceptualisation to manufacturing. Diamond and sapphire ring by Loris Paris Loris Paris specialises in creating and producing top-quality jewellery pieces. Over the years, it has gained fame for its design and manufacturing expertise, and is highly recognised in the field of fine arts and jewellery design. It uses top-quality diamonds of D to F colours and VVS1 clarity grade. Its pieces are also adorned with blue, pink and yellow sapphires, as well as rubies, Tahitian pearls and some South Sea pearls. The French jeweller s main markets are France and Japan but it is building its business in Hong Kong and China, according to Khorchidian. We consider distinctive designs as our competitive advantage. We launch new collections from time to time, especially for international trade shows because that s the best time to showcase our expertise to our existing markets as well as potential clients, remarked the company executive. Loris Paris latest collection features jewellery pieces with a small heart motif that is almost hidden to the naked eye. If you pay attention to the details, you will see the heart. It connotes secret love that s why it is hidden. We place great importance on details when designing our products Diamond because that s what keeps us ahead and coloured of the competition, continued gemstone ring Khorchidian. by Loris Paris Joïa Founded in 1998 by Jean-Pierre Moreira, Joïa produces fine jewellery pieces that complement the women of today. The pieces are created with daring lines and elegant curves that celebrate femininity. Marina Aparicio of Joïa said every Joïa piece is hand-made in France. We make sure that our designs are highly exceptional and the way to do this is to seek uniquely beautiful stones, stated Aparicio. For instance, every coloured gemstone is different so we always try to find inspiration from the stone, and then work our way to designing a piece of jewellery. The company, which is based in Lyon, has 52 employees in its manufacturing facility, added the company executive. All the pieces are in 18-karat gold adorned with diamonds and unheated sapphires and rubies, as well as no-oil emeralds. Some of the gemstones have gemmological certificates. Joïa s main market is France. JNA 26

27 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG Revolve pendant in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and fancy sapphires HK jeweller banks on market diversification to sustain growth By Chris Wong 2016 is a year to remember for Hong Kong-based jeweller Elegance Jewellery International (EJI) as it marked its 25 th anniversary. To commemorate the occasion, company CEO Ricky Lam looked back at the company s iconic collections over the years and recreated them for an exhibition. It was interesting to see how our collections had evolved since it reflected how consumers needs and tastes have changed in different markets at different times, Lam said. I m very pleased that our products are appreciated and recognised by our clients and markets around the world. Ricky Lam, CEO of EJI Specialising in customised collections, EJI is known for its manufacturing capabilities and unswerving determination to produce finequality jewellery. In an interview with JNA, Lam talked about the company s market positioning strategy and business philosophy, and his outlook for the industry in Growth strategy EJI used to focus on the Japan market only. It was the 1998 financial turmoil that kick-started the company s market diversification strategy. Yun Cai folding fan brooch in 18-karat pink gold adorned with enamel and diamonds 27

28 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG Yun Cai ring in 18-karat white gold embellished with enamel and diamonds Our turnover during the 1998 financial crisis dropped 80 percent. It taught me a lesson, revealed Lam. Since then, I began to diversify my business to spread the risk. Hence, when the 2008 financial crisis hit, our turnover only recorded a 10 percent decline. Chain stores are EJI s primary clients. The jeweller s customers are spread across various geographies, including the US, Europe, mainland China, Japan, Southeast Asia and the Middle East. In terms of sales, the US and European markets top EJI s list. The China market presents great potential for EJI, Lam said. However, consumers preferences and tastes are changing. In the past, consumers in mainland China were highly valueoriented. The majority of them, around 70 to 80 percent, were looking for pure gold jewellery. Today, their perception of jewellery has changed, with design and style as their main focuses, he said. Papillon pendant brooch in 18-karat white gold with sapphires and diamonds Crises and opportunities With a mission to provide products and services of the highest quality, Lam pointed out that having the right attitude is of utmost importance for jewellers. They have to enjoy and respect what they are doing, revealed Lam. By doing so, the jeweller will be able to transmit that excitement, joy and passion to the customer through jewellery. Lam further stated that a positive mindset is equally important. Having been in the industry for more than 30 years, he has experienced many ups and downs in the business. Each setback only made his team stronger, the company official said. We have been through many challenges, such as SARS and the financial crises in 1998 and They are not necessarily a bad thing. For me and EJI, we considered them as opportunities to learn. In fact, these challenges turned out to be valuable experiences for us all, he said. EJI s business has gone from strength to strength since the 2008 setback. Lam was quick to attribute the company s success to his team. We face challenges on a daily basis, but complaining about it is not going to change anything, said Lam. Therefore, we stayed focused on our jobs and spared no effort to improve our operations. This is our responsibility as jewellers. Design and creativity EJI launches collections twice a year. In March, the company introduced a product line focusing on the Dynamism theme. The Sparkle pendant in 18-karat white gold adorned with diamonds 28

29 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG collections featured pieces with moving parts, including butterfly-motif items from the Papillon Collection and folding fan-inspired jewels from the Yun Cai Collection. The folding fan design, which is available in 18-karat pink gold and adorned with enamel and diamonds, is a crowd-pleaser, said Lam, noting that the collection s uniqueness was the reason behind its success. There was no similar product on the market. Ours stood out from among other fan-shaped products because the movable concept was intriguing. The same case applies to our butterfly-motif products. The line was immediately noticed by our customers. In fact, many of them even played with the pieces, said the company chief. Covering a wide price range, the collections are available in different sizes and forms, including pendants, rings and earrings. Elegant, grand, exquisite and fun define EJI s collections, and this is what jewellery should be, Lam added. Revolve pendant in 18-karat white and pink gold and Revolve ring in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and fancy sapphires Sparkle pendant in 18-karat pink gold embellished with diamonds Business outlook Taking tailor-made orders for clients is not easy since it requires strong production capabilities. EJI said it excels in this regard. We produce high-quality jewellery using precious materials, including rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, and other gemstones requested by our clients, said Lam. As long as our clients can visualise what they want, we are confident we can create those for them. Lam is optimistic about his business prospects despite economic uncertainties. To be honest, I do not care what challenges lie ahead. The only things I care about are how we can refine our products and how we can exceed our customers expectations. I do not see challenges as crises, I consider them as opportunities, he said. Product-wise, I believe jewellery is for daily use. It doesn t have to be very fancy like a piece of artwork. Therefore, products in simple designs and with subtle elements that bring these pieces to life would be our focus going forward. JNA For more reports on Hong Kong s major jewellers, log on to jewellerynewsasia.com 29

30 JEWELLERY King Fook stays true to its brand heritage By Marie Feliciano Model presents jewellery pieces by Annamaria Cammilli. The Italian brand is exclusively sold in Hong Kong at Masterpiece by king fook King Fook Jewellery is banking on impeccable craftsmanship, extraordinary designs, an exciting product mix and exceptional service to stand out in Hong Kong s jewellery retail scene. In an interview with JNA, Davie Mok, director of Business Development & Marketing at King Fook Holdings, talks about the brand s core values, competitive strengths, and the importance of innovation and creativity in today s fast-changing world of luxury retail. JNA: In today s dynamic business environment marked by increased competition, fast-changing technologies and empowered consumers how is King Fook Jewellery transforming itself into a competitive and nimble retailer? Davie Mok: With the disruption of the market and drastic changes in the technology and communications landscape, I believe consumers are much better informed in terms of brand choices and knowledge. Accordingly, they are making smarter, well-assessed and more cautious purchase decisions. King Fook Jewellery has sharpened its competitive edge by honouring its traditions while striving for continuous innovation. We continue to strengthen King Fook Jewellery s brand equity of being the most reliable and trusted jeweller in Hong Kong. This positive reputation was built on a 67-year heritage of insisting on providing only best-quality products, and honest and professional services. These are the core fundamental values and the foundation of the long-established King Fook Jewellery brand. At the same time, we are proactively introducing innovative concepts and unique designs in our product offering. Design has become an important brand distinction for King Fook Jewellery. A good example is evident in our gold products. King Fook Jewellery has the reputation of selling the purest gold in the market since day one. While we continue this honourable business practice, we also infuse contemporary designs into our traditional pure gold collections, making them suitable for a modern-day lifestyle and for everyday wear. Davie Mok, director of Business Development & Marketing at King Fook Holdings, delivers his welcome remarks at the launch of Annamaria Cammilli s latest collections at Masterpiece by king fook 30

31 JEWELLERY JNA: What is the primary goal of King Fook Jewellery in 2017? Mok: There are still affluent consumers out there who are willing to spend even in the toughest economic situations. The crucial factor is that they are not merely looking at the price tag but more importantly, they are looking at the value that they derive from their spending. So, what King Fook Jewellery has been focusing on is creating greater value for money in terms of design, meticulous craftsmanship and premiumquality materials. This group of customers does not mind paying a premium as long as they know that they are getting their money s worth in return. JNA: Your people and corporate culture play a significant role in King Fook Jewellery s sustained success. How do you ensure that you will have the human resources and skills required to drive business growth? Mok: Indeed, corporate culture is important since it is the blueprint that shapes the overall brand personality and image of the company. As I have mentioned, when customers buy from us, they are not only buying a product, they are also buying our brand promise the guarantee that we are reliable and that they are getting the best quality and best value in the market. Such consumer confidence is built upon fundamental corporate beliefs and values that are persistently reinforced through internal trainings and communications. Since luxury jewellery and accessories retail is still very much a people s business, personal interactions between customers and our sales staff are a vital part of the overall brand experience. Luckily for us, most of our shop managers and sales staff have been with us for quite some time, and their professional knowledge and expertise are valuable to the company. The stability of the front line staff contributes much to customer satisfaction and loyalty. JNA: What is your business outlook for 2017? Mok: Looking at industry figures, the economy in 2017 seemed to have stabilised versus last year s drastic downward adjustments. Statistics has shown that in the first four months of the year, retail sales for the luxury category has narrowed down to -1.3 percent (versus over -17 percent in 2016). For us, 2017 is the time to consolidate our resources and sharpen our competitive edge. We will continue to strengthen our unique product offering and distinguish ourselves from our competitors through quality and value-formoney propositions. For example, contemporary Chinese concept designs have become an important signature collection of King Fook Jewellery, which has been favourably received by our customers. On the Richard Tang, chairman of King Fook Holdings Ltd, views Annamaria Cammilli s latest collections other hand, we have taken measures on driving cost efficiencies to help improve our bottom line. However, there is always a time lag in the retail environment before you can expect any noticeable changes. We expect 2017 to remain a tough year with interest rates rising and still a lot of uncertainties looming in the market. I guess one must remain cautiously optimistic and continuously strive for improvements, reinventing and breaking through to stay ahead of others. JNA: How do you decide on the international jewellery brands that you carry in your stores? Mok: The measuring stick is always to assess whether they will add value to the customer experience. The exclusive European brands that we carry have their own uniqueness in terms of design and craftsmanship. They bring a new dimension of sophistication in jewellery appreciation for our discerning customers. For example, Annamaria Cammilli s ability to produce 18-karat gold in seven different colours, and realistic renditions of fauna silhouettes and shapes; Palmiero s signature gradating colour diamonds in over 20 shades; Mattia Cielo s sculptural and metamorphic dynamism approach in jewellery designs; and Stenzhorn s invisible setting technique are all very unique offerings. JNA: What is the secret ingredient behind King Fook Jewellery s business longevity and sustained success? Mok: There is no secret formula so to speak. I think by staying true to our fundamental values and heritage on one hand while continuously striving for innovation and creativity on the other is our motto right now. I believe for a company that has survived over six decades of ups and downs and has developed a solid foundation of trust and credibility in the market, the challenge ahead is how to leverage on what we had, continue to remain vigilant for change and be bold enough to shift the paradigm whenever we can. JNA 31

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34 JEWELLERY Thai jeweller underscores enduring designs Francis Chiu Co Ltd of Thailand has always counted on the charm of timeless jewellery to maintain its edge in a highly competitive industry. With buyers becoming more sophisticated however, a jewellery piece has to be both artistic and innovative, according to Francis Chiu, director of the company. In an interview with JNA, Chiu talks about the jeweller s design philosophies and business strategies. Empowering collections Chiu revealed that his mother s passion for fine jewellery inspired him to pursue a career in the field. Over the years, the jeweller developed an eye for what type of jewellery catches the fancy of traders and connoisseurs. My mom and I would visit jewellery shops all the time, which gave me a chance to view an extensive array of jewellery and observe consumers buying behaviour, noted Chiu. Having been exposed to these at a young age helped me become more adept at identifying exceptional pieces. Francis Chiu Co Ltd was established in 1999, starting with only a few pieces of jewellery and without a workshop. A pair of emerald and ruby earrings with diamond accents At the time, the Chinese market was at its peak. The company grew exponentially but remained a small family business, he remarked. The company s largest market is Asia but it also has Western buyers, according to Chiu, adding that majority of the jeweller s clients are collectors. We always aim for jewellery designs that are practical and classic at the same time. The goal is to make a piece of jewellery that empowers the wearer by giving her more confidence, Diamond he noted. and coloured Clients are also gemstone ring partial to highquality gemstones such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds and jadeite, particularly natural and no-heat stones. Innovative designs According to the company official, the jeweller has a team that conceptualises one-of-akind designs for Francis Chiu collections. Our design and production teams are the brains behind our signature look, which gives prominence to gemstones. I would sometimes tweak the designs or make suggestions but ultimately, we all work as a team, he added. Jadeite and diamond necklace and brooch with diamonds, rubies and jadeite. All jewellery photos from Francis Chiu Co Ltd of Thailand Some designs meld the classic look with a touch of modernity, which is highly evident in jadeite jewellery collections. Chiu revealed that it s a challenge to change buyers perception of jadeite as an oldfashioned gemstone primarily sought after by the older generation but the company strives to provide designs that give jadeite a more contemporary appeal. We acknowledge the fact that jadeite is generally favoured by older customers but this stone has another side, which can become attractive even to younger clients with more modern tastes, noted Chiu. The company official also said that more educated buyers closely examine the design and quality of stones before making a purchase. A buyer may find the design appealing but if the quality is subpar, he or she will not invest in the piece, he added. JNA 34

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36 CONVERSATIONS Mads Kornerup, creative director of Shamballa Jewels. Photo by Morten Bjarnhof Shamballa s mystic journey By Marie Feliciano If there is one piece of jewellery that will always be identified with Shamballa Jewels, it is its iconic beaded macramé Shamballa bracelets. Made of 18-karat gold and 10mm beads of coloured gemstones, gold and diamond pavés, the bracelets are among the must-have jewels of A-list celebrities, from movie stars and music moguls to fashion legends. 36

37 CONVERSATIONS Designed by Mads Kornerup in 2001, the Shamballa bracelet, which drew inspiration from Buddhist prayer beads, has become more than a jewellery phenomenon. It brought about a zeitgeist that encouraged people to find meaning in the jewellery they wear, and that was exactly what he had set out to do to create jewellery whose value lies not only in the materials used, but in the very emotions they evoke and represent, according to the luxury jeweller. Following the success of the design, Mads and his brother, Mikkel, launched fine jewellery brand, Shamballa Jewels, in 2005, in Copenhagen, Denmark. Named after the mythical Himalayan kingdom of Shamballa, Shamballa Jewels unites Eastern philosophy with Nordic design traditions in its jewellery designs. The brand, which creates jewellery that can be customised bead for bead, is present in more than 30 countries, with a flagship store in Copenhagen. In an interview with JNA, Mads, the company s creative director and co-founder, talks about the latest additions to Shamballa Jewels exciting repertoire and the brand s international expansion aspirations. JNA: What have you been up to? Mads Kornerup: In our newest collections, I have created colour combinations that embrace the season but also embrace what the rest of fashion is doing so they do correspond with what you are wearing. Of course, we always maintain our collection with precious stones rubies emeralds and sapphires but in the last couple of years, we started getting into brown, grey and yellow sapphires. We keep on discovering new materials that work really well with our jewellery. What I have in my chain are some beautiful opal beads and they just give that spark and that magic to the necklace. We do not reinvent ourselves constantly but we do style, and we are showing colour to accomplish that. The magic with our beaded macramé Shamballa bracelets is that they can completely change their looks from one season to another just by changing the colour of the rope and by exchanging a couple of beads. It has always been our goal to create jewellery that can transform itself. That s one of the most unique things Shamballa bracelets can do. Of course, when we have some great ideas, we add new solid pieces but our core is still the beads. You can get amazing beadings from other jewellery companies but for high-end bespoke precious beadings, it s only Shamballa. JNA: Tell us about your plans in New York. Kornerup: We just signed a lease in a store on Mercer Street in New York. If everything goes on as planned, we will open up on Mercer in October. This shop is actually a gift to our clients. We only have one flagship shop now, and that s in Copenhagen. We also have a little franchise in Zurich. We want our international clients there may be close to 20,000 solid Shamballa collectors worldwide, according to our calculations to get serviced personally without having them come to Denmark. But of course, London and Paris will follow, and we re going to see what happens in Asia. In Asia, we are waiting patiently to see who s going to be a good partner. JNA: Do you see potentially lucrative opportunities for Shamballa Jewels in China? Kornerup: I think even some of the Chinese cities we don t even know about the secondtier cities are going to be the up-and-coming cities within trends and fashion. I think the Shamballa bracelet might very well be amazing for them. JNA: When did you have that I ve arrived moment that moment when you felt you ve made it? Kornerup: It happened some years ago. Karl Lagerfeld came out of the couture show of Chanel; he raised his hand and waved. He was wearing a green emerald bracelet by Shamballa Jewels. When the most iconic designer in the world waves his hand and shows he s wearing your jewellery, that s one big moment for you. JNA From top: Gold necklace from the Spirit of Shamballa Collection; and bead bracelet from Shamballa Jewels Gold Bar Collection 37

38 DESIGN Marie Mas: Jewels of movement By Marie Feliciano Marie Cabirou, founder and chief designer of Marie Mas, presents exceptional pieces with her first collection, Swinging Stones. Designed to be jewels of movement inspired by the underwater world, the collection aptly embodies the joy that one associates with fine jewellery. Each exceptional piece can transform and adapt itself in one moment to suit one s personality and desires. The coloured gemstones are set back to back. A mechanism allows the gemstones to rotate and switch colour in a balletic domino effect. According to the jeweller, Marie Mas strength is in the development of new patented techniques, which become part of the brand s identity. Expert craftsmanship meets innovation to create the most incredible jewellery pieces. I am looking for movement; poetry in the mechanism s complexity. I love to bring a touch of magic to my jewels, Cabirou said. 38

39 DESIGN A graduate of the prestigious École Duperré (College of Art, Design and Fashion) and IFM (French Fashion Institute) in Paris, Cabirou learned jewellery design by assisting renowned jewellers Florence Croisier and Shourouk. Five years ago, she entered the maison Christian Dior Couture with Raf Simons, where she developed her jewellery designer skills. After three years, she decided to launch her own line of fine jewellery and haute couture jewellery that she named Marie Mas, in honour of her grandmother, who influenced her taste for femininity, beauty and creation. In an interview with JNA, Cabirou talks about her love for jewellery and the challenges and rewards of entrepreneurship. JNA: When and how did Marie Mas start? Marie Cabirou: The brand was only launched a few months ago, and the Swinging Stones Collection is our first collection. Everything is based on the concept of movement. The idea is to have two shades of colours that are articulated. The technique to make the stones move is internationally patented by our brand. I have always been fascinated with jewellery that has that wow effect. It s something unexpected and that s what I want in my jewellery. If you are only going to do something that everyone is doing, then there s no point in taking risks to launch your own line. I ve decided to go for it since what I have is something that no one else has. JNA: What s your definition of jewellery? Cabirou: A beautiful experience. I like the idea of living jewellery. In addition to giving my jewellery movement, I also gave them exceptional colours. The colour gradient works beautifully with my carefully selected gemstones. My Dancing Soft bracelet, for example, is made up of different stones, namely African, Brazilian and pink amethysts; pink quartz; London Blue topaz; Swiss Blue topaz; Sky Blue topaz and blue moon quartz. Once the buyers see my jewellery pieces moving, they are really drawn to them. I have received positive feedback from the shops, and I am very happy with how things have turned out. JNA: Why launch your brand now? Cabirou: I am 28 years old, and before starting my own line, I worked for Christian Dior for three years. I felt this is the ideal time to strike out on my own since I am young and free. I love to learn. One of the things that I like about starting my own brand is that I have to go beyond design. I have to come up with a business plan, work on a budget and meet buyers. It can be hard at first but once you learn how to do it, it becomes easy. JNA: Who are your target customers? Cabirou: Everyone. Ideally, I d like to work with one shop per city since I believe customers also appreciate that exclusivity. I am very much open to exploring different cities and different countries. JNA 1. Dancing Double Clip earring 2. Dancing ring and Dancing cuff bracelet 3. Marie Cabirou, founder of Marie Mas 4. Swivelling bracelets 5. Swinging earrings 6. Dancing Soft bracelet 7. Dancing cuff bracelet All jewellery pieces by Marie Mas 7 To know more about the jewellery industry s design stars, log on jewellerynewsasia.com 39

40 TECHNOLOGY Jewellery tools trader remains resourceful amid uncertainties Solidscape S350 high-precision 3D printer distributed by Double Technology Ltd By Chris Wong Established in 2003, Double Technology Ltd offers a wide range of modern jewellery manufacturing equipment including hardware and software products imported mainly from Germany, Japan and the US. In an interview with JNA, Alf Wong, managing director of Double Technology, discussed the company s latest products and business strategies in the region. JNA: What are your major markets? Alf Wong: Our top markets are mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan, but the bulk of our business is in China. Besides the Greater China region, we also have clients in the Middle East (Iran) and Eastern Europe (Ukraine). JNA: There are two new models of Solidscape 3D printers, which are among your bestsellers. Could you tell us more about these products? Wong: The latest models have three main features. The first one is advanced automation. 3D printers are highly user-friendly, with a one-button operation system, which allows the user to pre-set all parameters. When connected to the Internet, the 3D printer becomes remotely controllable, which translates to quick turnaround time. Apart from that, the new models, S350 and S370, are highly precised. The S350 model is the most accurate 3D printer by far. Its layering capability could be as accurate as 0.006mm. The supporting material we use is also soluble in water. This means we could produce a mould in any shape. For instance, we can produce a sphere wrapped in another sphere. This is not possible if the supporting material is not water soluble. JNA: What is the difference between S350 and S370? Wong: S350 excels in precision but it takes time to print while S370 is less precise but able to deliver results more quickly. It all depends on the client s request. If precision is what they are after, we will recommend S350. If timeliness is their concern, then S370 will be their better option. JNA: What do you think are the challenges in the jewellery machinery sector at the moment? Wong: We are facing a number of challenges. To begin with, clients are becoming more cautious about spending due to macroeconomic uncertainties, leading to a reduced number of orders during exhibitions. At the same time, labour cost is also on the rise. The industry is dependent on labour from mainland China. We provide benefits such as housing funds to our employees in accordance with laws and regulations in China. The general consumption pattern has likewise changed. In the past, jewellery was a preferred gift but now buyers are faced with many other options including smartphones. The emergence of online jewellers is also a challenge. With the development of e-commerce, these companies are able to save on overhead costs, which in turn, allows them to offer products at very competitive prices. JNA: How do you cope with the situation? Wong: We have to be flexible. In terms of price points, our hands are tied since we are agents. Therefore, expanding our client base is crucial to our business. We participated in several innovation and technology exhibitions to explore opportunities in other industries, and we succeeded. We are now taking orders from clients in the dentistry field. We will continue these initiatives to reach as many potential clients as possible. JNA Mould in production 40

41 TECHNOLOGY Manufacturer presents 3D resin printer 3D printer from Guangzhou Yihui Casting Technology Co Ltd Guangzhou Yihui Casting Technology Co Ltd is turning the spotlight on a new 3D printer that it said is capable of printing resin models with excellent contours. The device, specifically designed for jewellery manufacturers, is mainly used for jewellery casting, hot or cold mould vulcanising, and high-volume production, the company said. Our 3D resin printer has numerous advantages including high accuracy, reliability and efficiency; sharp and clear resolution; and more than 25,000 hours of working life, said Yihui Casting. It also has a large printing area. The device likewise has a controllable LED source and lightcuring material in order to achieve optimum printing results, noted the company. It is also equipped with the latest technology that prevents damaging of the printed resin. The 3D printer also helps control material shrinkage to less than 0.1mm. The surface of the printed resin comes out very smooth. Most importantly, our resin is 100 percent vaporised, making it easy to cast. This also contributes to a perfect metal casting effect, remarked Yihui Casting. Established in 2003, Yihui Casting has become one of the most reliable and professional suppliers of integrated lost wax casting solutions, and manufacturers of jewellery casting machines and materials. Yihui Casting also supplies graphite products. Relying on the Yihui brand, our company provides casting products to a wide range of worldwide clients. We are also agents of world-renowned manufacturers of jewellery tools and consumables. Our product portfolio covers all jewellery-making procedures, it noted. Yihui Casting has customers in Southeast Asia, the Middle East, Europe and the US. The company said it opened branches and shops in Guangzhou, Dongguan, Shenzhen, Yiwu and Hong Kong to better serve its customers. JNA Innovative welding device from Hong Kong distributor Yuen Kee Ho Machinery Ltd of Hong Kong recently added the latest welding technology from Germany to its product portfolio. The new PUK 5 welder, developed specifically for goldsmiths, is used to weld on findings, add metal, fill porosity and attach workpieces prior to soldering, among other functions, according to the company. The upgraded version has an operating concept that combines the advantages of a modern touchscreen with a tried-and-tested operation via a rotary controller. The PUK 5 precision welding equipment places a whole host of possible applications for jewellery production at the user s fingertips, according to the company. Structures made from sheet or wire elements can be easily done as well as repairs to jewellery parts, restoring missing parts or filling of pores by applying welding wire, it added. The PUK 5 is able to produce anything from the smallest of repairs to volume production, and oneof-a-kind creations, the company said, citing data from German manufacturer Lampert. As soon as the tip of the electrode of the welding hand piece touches the workpiece, the welding process starts automatically. At the contact point, under an inert gas atmosphere, a melting process with a diameter of between 0.3mm and 3.0mm takes PUK 5 welding device place, depending on material and setting. In addition to precious metal alloys such as gold, silver and platinum; nonferrous metals such as copper and tin alloys; steel, titanium and aluminium alloys are also suitable for welding. All alloys suitable for laser or TIG welding can also be welded with the PUK 5. It also makes it easier to choose the parameter settings for welding of different products. This product likewise results in improved smoothness of the surface by adjusting the welding speed. It is especially designed for welding of ring junctions, threading positions and bails, added Yuen Kee Ho. JNA 41

42 TECHNOLOGY Modern jewellery photography solutions from Flex Line Alo Photo Scan Flex Line Tech Ltd is presenting Alo Photo Scan or APS system a combination of jewellery photography hardware and software aimed at meeting the diverse needs of jewellery traders. The company now offers APS5, an innovative software that helps companies produce highresolution digital shots faster and more conveniently. The software offers a focus-stacking function, renewed interface, video creation, product database, catalogue wizard and a function that allows the user to create interactive videos, among other features. In a previous interview, the company s Marco Carboni explained that the device works like a live box. Place the piece of jewellery into the box and the device will capture, fine tune and save the image in the software all within two minutes. All you need to do is mount a camera on the box and you can start taking photos like a pro. Apart from high-resolution photos against a white background, the software also allows 3D-animated videos. The catalogue producer and image database, a plugin for APS, is the fastest way to organise digital pictures and create userdefined page settings, according to Flex Line. JNA HK company offers weighing scale, microscopy camera Rubin & Son (HK) Ltd is providing a wide range of innovative tools for jewellery manufacturers. Among the company s product offerings is GCL- 603i, a carat-weighing scale from Sartorius of Germany. The product, a successor of the GD-603, has a 600-carat capacity and carat readability. GCL-603i now comes with a fully automatic, built-in calibration and adjustment function as well as a draft shield (wind shield) with a weighing chamber height of 160mm only. This footprint can fit into any shops and trading offices, noted Rubin & Son. It offers secure operating procedures and precise weighing results, which are indispensable for determining the weight of diamonds and gemstones. GCL-603i GCL-603i is highly adaptable to fast working processes and different environmental conditions, and still provides consistently reliable and accurate results, according to the company. Rubin & Son is also offering a Motic microscopy camera with HDMI and USB connectivity or MotiCam-1080 from China. As an affordable, multi-tasking microscopy camera, MotiCam 1080 provides flexibility in connectivity options and convenient on-board software but still maintains a high-definition 1920 by 1080 pixel image quality, the HK-based firm said. It does not require a computer for standard operations as the user can make image adjustments and capture an image straight through the camera s on-board software. It captures images directly onto an SD memory card or connect an external monitor through the HDMI output. Users can utilise a computer at the same time by simply connecting the camera through the USB port for simultaneous image transmission. MotiCam 1080 works not only in its Motic Microscope family but could also attach to most popular microscopes in MotiCam-1080 the market; this would greatly help jewellers, diamond and gemstone dealers and laboratory technicians, noted Rubin & Son. JNA 42

43 TRADE FAIRS Buyers at the 30 th June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Fine gems, innovative designs shine at June HK Fair An expansive selection of top-quality gemstones and fine jewellery dazzled buyers at the 30 th edition of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Renowned as one of Asia s top three fine jewellery events, the fair featured almost 2,100 exhibitors from 40 countries and regions who displayed a comprehensive collection of fine finished jewellery, diamonds, pearls, coloured gemstones and packaging products, tools and equipment. This year s edition also showcased an enhanced product portfolio that included fashion jewellery and stainless steel jewellery. The CORE Pavilion a dedicated area for jewellery companies that have supported jewellery and gem fairs in Hong Kong over the years and consider Hong Kong as the platform from which they grow their businesses was likewise unveiled at the show. Diamond and coloured gemstone ring by PIN Hong Kong Ltd Sparkling gems Taiwan-based Rare Gems presented its latest collection of gemquality rubies and sapphires. One of the gemstone expert s finest offerings was a rare, unheated 5.04-carat Pigeon s blood Burmese ruby, according to company owner Monto Badhalia. The 5.04-carat Pigeon s blood Burmese ruby was described in a GRS report as a stone possessing of a very rare combination of size (5.04 carats), excellent colour variety, good brilliancy and transparency, and spared of thermal enhancement. Important Rubies from Mogok over 5 carats are rarities. The ruby was valued at $500,000 or about $100,000 per carat. Rare Gems also showcased a selection of one-of-akind unheated sapphires, including a stunning ring set with a 19-carat Sri Lankan sapphire adorned with pearshaped diamonds. Valued at around $100,000, the sapphire can also be worn as a pendant. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Edelweiss Jewellery Company Ltd 43

44 TRADE FAIRS We have established very good connections with miners and gemstone manufacturers, and this is the reason why we have access to very rare gems, Badhalia said. I have been dealing in Burmese rubies for the last 25 years. Whenever a top-quality stone is recovered, the miners call me right away. An extensive selection of rubies and sapphires ranging from calibrated goods and spectacular single stones to eye-catching layouts, meanwhile, graced the display windows of Sukhadia Stones Co Ltd of Thailand. The company presented an carat no-heat Pigeon s blood Burmese ruby and a 9.02-carat no-heat Pigeon s blood ruby from Mozambique. The company also offered a wide range of calibrated goods. According to Managing Director Chiku Sukhadia, the company was targeting buyers from Hong Kong, China and other Asian markets at the show. Sukhadia said demand had slowed down this year for big-ticket items costing over half a million dollars. The market, instead, was opting for smaller-sized stones of good quality. The bulk of our business this year has been in calibrated sizes. Polished ruby from SVD Gems Co Ltd; sapphires from Blue Gems Co Ltd The Chinese market has been asking for top-quality, calibrated rubies and sapphires. Of the single stones, demand has been stronger for those sized from 2 carats to 8 carats, he noted. Diamonds likewise made waves at the show. Diamond dealer Khyati Gems (HK) Ltd drew buyers attention to its stunning collection of Argyle blue and pink diamonds between 5 and 20 points and yellow diamonds from 0.50 carat to 10 carats in all colour intensities. Company director Jayesh Kavathiya noted that demand for and prices of fancy yellow diamonds have softened in the past year, but pink diamonds were still moving well. People have been buying on an orderbasis rather than to build stock. The smaller stones are currently our top sellers but there is still also demand for special stones, he remarked. Perles Ternat of Hong Kong, meanwhile, shone the spotlight on an expansive selection of conch pearls. According to Bertrand Ternat, owner of Perles Ternat, demand for top-quality conch pearls has been Chiku Sukhadia of Sukhadia Stones and Bertrand Ternat, owner of Perles Ternat on the rise, with prices and market reach doubling over the past 10 years. A conch pearl is a natural pearl from the Caribbean. These pink pearls have gained immense popularity over the years and continue to find their way in the fine jewellery collections of major designers and jewellers, noted Ternat. Perles Ternat has a solid customer base in Asia, particularly China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan. The company also has clients from the US and Europe. There s also a big potential in Southeast Asia. I see more and more people from Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand becoming interested in conch pearls, continued Ternat. Classic and elegant designs Jewellery manufacturers and designers also displayed their creative flair at the June Hong Kong Fair. A sparkling collection of fine diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery top-billed Hong Kong-based Universal Jewellery Co Ltd s product offerings at the show. According to Lydia Kwan, director of Universal Jewellery, the company also showcased a special collection of jadeite and diamond jewellery in refined designs. An exhibitor happily chats with a buyer at the show 44

45 TRADE FAIRS Anik Shah, left, and Sara Kazimi of Élete Jewelry; and Lydia Kwan, left, and Jane Li of Universal Jewellery Co Ltd Established in 1947, the jewellery manufacturer is known for its fine jewellery pieces featuring an elegant combination of classic and contemporary designs. It specialises in top-quality coloured gemstone jewellery adorned with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, jadeites, opals, pearls and aquamarines. Universal Jewellery trained its sights on the US, European and Southeast Asian markets at the fair. Kwan also cited more stability in the jewellery industry, compared to last year, adding that opportunities still abound even during challenging times. We are always looking for ways to further strengthen the business, she added. Ultimate Jewels Co Ltd of Thailand, meanwhile, impressed buyers with its vast selection of diamond jewellery in 18-karat gold in classic designs. Ultimate Jewels Director Samir Patel said the company eyed potential clients from the US and Europe at the fair. The company s major market is the Middle East. The jeweller offered diamond necklaces and statement rings in traditional designs, featuring Ultimate Jewel s signature illusion setting using baguette and round diamonds. Classic jewellery pieces never go out of style and are always highly sought after, he noted. The company s main product is 18-karat white gold jewellery, adorned with G- to H-colour diamonds of VS quality. Among its most popular products are long necklaces, pieces with various fancy-cut diamonds as well as earrings, ring and necklace sets. Turkish jewellers, meanwhile, presented a vast collection of gold and diamond jewellery. According to the Turkish Jewellery Exporters Association (JTR), Turkey aimed to further expand Turkey s market reach in Asia, Europe and North America with the participation of 21 major companies at the Turkish Pavilion. JTR s Fatih Saricaoglu said the pavilion hosted 11 gold and diamond jewellery manufacturers, and 10 mounting companies. There were also eight other Turkish companies that participated in the show. Su-Raj Inter Gold (HK) displayed an eclectic selection of sophisticated diamond jewellery offered at competitive prices. According to the company, price-point items are highly sought after by clients who want value for their money. We recognise that buyers have become more selective and price-conscious, and since we always aim to stay ahead of the competition, we have developed an expansive line of price-point products that sports a big look but is more affordable. These items move the fastest, noted Su-Raj. The company unveiled a number of new collections at the show including Monalisa, Embrace, Woo, Mirrari, Glide and 3 Generation studs. Despite challenging times, we remain upbeat about business prospects at this year s trade fair. We take pride in the quality of our products as well as our business model, which is very transparent, added the company. Su-Raj said its strength lies in its customers, adding that their loyalty, support and cooperation aid the company in developing new designs and keeping its competitive edge. Our relationship with our customers goes beyond the delivery of products. We go out of our way to give them after-sales services by helping them effectively market product concepts, for instance. We provide them catalogues to help them explain the products to their customers with ease and confidence, and sell faster, remarked Su-Raj. The manufacturer revealed that it likewise regularly invests in modern machinery to further strengthen its production process. Su-Raj has a strong customer base in Asia. JNA Diamond jewellery set from the Embrace Collection of Su-Raj Inter Gold (HK) 45

46 TRADE FAIRS Trendy collections, gems glitter at Las Vegas show By Marie Feliciano Fine and trendy jewellery collections, and gem-quality gemstones basked in the Las Vegas limelight as buyers appetite for top-end and fashionable goods remains firm. Niveet Nagpal of California-based Omi Privé and Omi Gems said customer response to his fine coloured gemstone jewellery pieces was positive. The company, which has won several accolades for its one-of-a-kind gems, presented pieces set Niveet Nagpal of Californiabased Omi Privé and Omi Gems with alexandrite, spinel and classic stones at JCK presents one of his exceptional Luxury. sapphire rings Alexandrite is one of my favourite gemstones. It is such a unique and rare stone with colour-change properties, and it s becoming increasingly rare, Nagpal said. I also love spinel, a bright and beautiful stone that comes in so many different colours. It is very similar to sapphire but even brighter. It comes from so many different places and in many different colours that they give you so much versatility in design. I think the value has gone up for spinel as more and more people learn what it is, but I think it is undervalued for how beautiful it is. It is less expensive than rubies and sapphires but it s rarer and more beautiful. I still think there is a lot more room for spinel to grow. Diamond jewellery by Magnificence. Magnificence is H. K. Designs new brand At JCK Las Vegas, H. K. Designs likewise drew attention to its new jewellery brand, Magnificence. Magnificence has a very simple yet unique setting style, said the brand s Nidhi Dangayach. The diamond is sealed into the centre of an elegant glass lens, which magnifies the stone s size and beauty. The innovative lens captures and amplifies light to create a glowing, extravagant piece of jewellery from an otherwise modest stone, the company said. The design and technology its patent is pending allows small stones to appear significantly larger and more radiant, it noted. For instance, a 0.50-carat stone has the appearance of a 1-carat diamond, making it appear twice its original size, Dangayach explained. Hasu Dholakiya, president of H. K. Designs, commented, We expect that this new innovative collection will be a game-changer and revolutionise the industry. Most of the exhibitors interviewed by JNA said the show registered less foot traffic compared with the previous year but the buyers who showed up were serious and came with shopping lists. Diamond, coloured gemstone and finished jewellery suppliers 46

47 TRADE FAIRS From left: Chi Huynh, artist and founder of Galatea: Jewelry by Artist; Li Chongjie, founder and CEO of China Stone Co Ltd said they received the most enquiries for sellable goods entry-level diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery and high-end pieces for collectors. Those offering edgier and on-trend collections said they were happy with their sales results. Steven Rahimi, owner of New York-based Steven Royce and a JCK Luxury exhibitor, came to the fair with realistic expectations. If I go home with two to three new customers, I d be happy, Rahimi said. Steven Royce specialises in classic collections set with quality stones from emeralds and sapphires to alexandrites and tanzanites. Overall, vendors who had something different or special to offer retailers said they did solid business at JCK. Chi Huynh, artist and founder of Galatea: Jewelry by Artist, said his booth was the busiest at the show because he was offering something extraordinary. The company, known for its Galatea carved pearls, launched several pieces including its Pomegranate Pearl pendant and earrings, which are part of the brand s Pearl Berries Collection. The hand-carved Tahitian pearls are studded with tiny pink tourmalines and set in 14-karat gold. Another innovative collection is Galatea s Bird s Nest Pearl, which comes in many sizes and pearl colours. The baroque pearls are carved and adorned with druzy stone in their crevices, a tiny pearl and a golden bird. What you can find from us is available nowhere else, Chi said. Meanwhile, diamond manufacturers noted that most of the buyers placed orders for sure-fire goods SI, Triple Ex, H-I colour stones from 50 points and above. Diamond buyers, however, were not keen on further stocking up their existing inventories. They only buy what they can sell, according to an Israeli supplier. People remain cautious. Suppliers of coloured gemstones in calibrated sizes did relatively well at the show. Thailand-based China Stone said orders for fancy sapphires were up, adding that the company secured new business from small- and medium-sized jewellers. Dealers of sapphire, emerald and ruby said business remained steady although some buyers found emerald prices too steep recently due to tight supply. According to the show organiser, JCK drew more than 30,500 industry professionals. The weeklong event was shifted from its traditional day pattern to accommodate several hundred of JCK s exhibitors who observed the Jewish Shavuot Holiday. LUXURY, JCK s high-end event that opened by invitation only three days beforehand, featured a design component, with its new LUXURY section. LUXURY featured 248 exhibiting brands and an increase in retailer attendance with 2,600 retailers attending its invitation days, the organiser said. JCK was home to over 2,178 exhibiting vendors and welcomed 19,200 retailers. Although attendance was slightly down over the previous year, initial research shows transactions were well ahead of the previous year, according to the fair organiser. Buyers came to do business. We have seen and heard positive remarks on the increase in the amount of transactions that took place this year compared to the previous year. The first day of JCK was just as strong as previous opening days, matching the same attendance figures we are used to seeing. In a world where we are seeing retail stores closing at an alarming rate, it is also refreshing to see over 1,200 new stores attend JCK for the first time, said Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of JCK. JNA From left: Hemant Phophaliya of AG Color; Jason Rahimi of Steven Royce 47

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50 PEARLS Japan intensifies global pearl promotion By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Japan is showing no signs of slowing down as it takes a major step in further strengthening its reputation as the world s trading hub for cultured pearls. In an interview with JNA, Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters Association (JPEA), talked about the country s extensive marketing initiatives specifically geared towards Asia as well as the latest trends and challenges in the pearl sector. Japan s pearls According to Shimizu, stakeholders of Japan s pearl industry recently met with Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe to discuss the Japan Pearl Promotion Law. The law will be implemented officially in July by setting up three major committees: A farmers committee; a committee of pearl distributors, including exporters; and a committee on education and promotion, revealed the JPEA official. These will set the scene towards the full implementation of the law. The law, signed in June last year, is aimed at further reinforcing Japan s pearl sector, with emphasis on advances in processing and distribution, research and development, export and global competitiveness. Under the law, Japan s Ministers of Agriculture, Forestry and Fishery and of Economy, Trade and Industry are in charge of crafting a basic plan to improve and fortify the country s loose pearl and pearl jewellery industries. The government is prepared to support the campaign through sufficient funding. We are thinking of doing something big at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair next year, noted Shimizu. He also said Japan s marketing and promotion efforts are primarily directed towards Asia, specifically China. The US and Europe are still recovering so we have to focus on other markets. Bulk of the promotions will be concentrated on Asia, the JPEA official continued. Shimizu also disclosed that the industry is in talks with Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games Minister Tamayo Marukawa about the possibility of promoting pearls during the Tokyo Olympics in The Japanese Pearl Pavilion at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters Association Demand Shimizu also underscored the importance of putting in place such a massive marketing initiative to further spur demand for pearls. Citing results of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the pearl specialist said buyers seemed to gravitate towards South Sea pearls since there is a shortage in supply of top-quality Tahitian pearls. Loose pearls also moved faster than pearl necklaces, he added. There is a shift in customer preference to white, yellow and golden South Sea pearls, which pushed the demand for South Sea pearls. Buyers, however, continue to be price-conscious, noted Shimizu. The Chinese market prefers round to near-round pearls in smaller sizes of 8mm, 9mm or 10mm. Prices are pegged at $50 to $70 per piece or lower. There are people willing to pay $120 per piece at most for betterquality pieces in bigger sizes of 13mm, 14mm or 15mm. Some are looking for top-grade, clean goods that cost around $200 to $250 per piece but these are no longer easy to supply, revealed the pearl expert. JNA 50

51 PEARLS Japan showcases Filipino artistry with Rajo Laurel and Jewelmer For the first time since 1964, the Philippine Embassy in Japan hosted a momentous fashion show presenting the best of Philippine culture. Honouring the inauguration of a new Philippine ambassador in Japan, Jose C. Laurel V, in time for Philippine Independence Day, the event showcased two of the country s foremost icons: Leading Filipino designer Rajo Laurel and Jewelmer, a luxury jewellery brand highlighting the golden South Sea pearl. A Manilabased fashion designer, Rajo Laurel specialises in haute couture creations that have been worn by celebrated personalities, from the likes of former international model and TV personality Tyra Banks and Hollywood actress Taraji Henson to Miss International 2016 Kylie Verzosa. International luxury brand Jewelmer has been offering high jewellery that combines the poetry of French design and the natural wonder of the golden pearl, hailed as the A model dons a Rajo Laurel creation and fine jewellery pieces by Jewelmer national gem of the Philippines. The event was held on June 12 at the Imperial Hotel in Chiyoda, Tokyo. Singers Denise Laurel, Nicole Laurel-Asensio and Jojo Urquico treated the guests with inspired musical performances. Filipino models took the runway, parading couture gowns that conveyed the artistry of Rajo Laurel, and Jewelmer s creations expressing the natural wonder of the golden South Sea pearl. Miss Universe Philippines 2016 Maxine Medina led the ensemble, wearing one of Jewelmer s most iconic creations: The Miss Universe Philippines headpiece, featuring a cluster of golden pearls evoking the glory of a natural treasure. Inspired by vintas, colourful sailboats in the Philippines, the piece alludes to the country s vibrant history and culture. As the event welcomed Japan s new Philippine ambassador, it introduced guests to the artistry, talent and natural wonder of the Philippines, the country long hailed as the Pearl of the Orient Seas. Miss Universe Philippines 2016 Maxine Medina wears one of Jewelmer s most iconic creations: The Miss Universe Philippines headpiece Meanwhile, Jewelmer recently launched its ad campaign highlighting the pearl of the modern woman through a video and a series of beautifully captured photographs. The Jewelmer woman is subtly elegant; she has an appreciation for luxury and a genuine relationship with her pearls, said Jewelmer brand manager Marion Branellec. This campaign celebrates women who are empowered, confident and loving. Set in three different scenarios a cruise, a boardroom and an evening gala the campaign presents the Jewelmer woman at the helm of affairs and commanding attention. We wanted to come out with something modern and fresh while still staying authentic to our heritage, Branellec said. We wanted to break misperceptions that pearls are only for ball gown occasions. Pearls are versatile gems that can dress up any look by enhancing the natural beauty of a woman. JNA 51

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53 GEMSTONES Dealers see sparkling demand outlook for emeralds By Bernardette Sto. Domingo and Marie Feliciano An emerald s vivid green colour and regal allure have long enthralled a great number of gemstone collectors and jewellery connoisseurs for thousands of years. This beloved gemstone strongly associated with lush terrains and rich greenery has consistently found its way to royal families crown jewels, iconic high jewellery collections and international auctions. In June, the stunning carat Rockefeller emerald, previously owned by the prominent Rockefeller clan, fetched $5.51 million at Christie s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York. Marcelo Ribeiro of The stone, described as having a Belmont Mine holds mesmerising colour and impeccable clarity, up a carat cat seye emerald. Notice originated from Colombia home to the famed Muzo emerald district, which has the emerald s sharp produced some of the world s most eye and colour captivating, deep green emeralds. In this issue, JNA talks to major gemstone dealers about the latest trends, opportunities and challenges in the global emerald trade. Emerald-green lake in Coron, Palawan, Philippines Business outlook A carat Brazilian mine-to-market emerald specialist cat s-eye emerald Belmont said the market s unrelenting love for from Brazil s emeralds has driven demand, which has been Belmont Mine robust and growing steadily in the last two years. Belmont Mine Director Marcelo Ribeiro commented, Prices are stable and the market is very healthy. We are very optimistic about the demand outlook for emeralds. Emeralds are the new diamonds. Emerald has a name that sells since it is recognised worldwide for its rarity and beauty. Ribeiro added that global emerald production is projected to record a drop in 2017 compared with the previous year. We expect a slight shortage of supply of some shapes by the end of the year. Most probably, buyers will have difficulty finding high-quality single stones and high-quality calibrated stones. Rounds, emerald cuts and cushions are very much in demand, he said. In Greater China, fine-quality stones in calibrated sizes, especially emeralds within the 0.50-carat to 2-carat range, are moving faster than before. Cat s-eye emeralds are also performing strongly in this 53

54 GEMSTONES market, he continued. At the 30 th edition of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the company showcased an exceptional carat cat s-eye emerald, which possesses a sharp eye and alluring colour. Belmont is also working in partnership with Gübelin Gem Lab on the latter s Emerald Paternity Test, a new traceability technology creating independent proof of provenance for emeralds. The technology uses customised DNA-based nanoparticles enabling traceability of emeralds back to the exact place of mining. According to Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of the Gübelin Gem Lab, the technology is based on a new type of nanomaterials that are inserted in the gemstone directly at the mine. These particles are invisible even to the best optical microscope and can store all relevant information about the specific mine, mining company and mining period, noted Nyfeler. These nanoparticles are built to survive the usual processes of cutting, treating, mounting and can be retrieved at any stage down the supply chain and decoded to determine the exact provenance. Emerald ring Belmont and Gübelin Gem Lab are currently finalising some logistical arrangements, Ribeiro said. Our plan is to have all Belmont emeralds undergo the Emerald Paternity Test starting from We want our emeralds to carry the DNA-based nanoparticles, which allow Gübelin Gem Lab to identify the emeralds origins, he said. The project heralds a new era in the gemstone industry. Jewellers will be able to assure the market of the provenance of their emeralds. Consumers will get a glimpse of the history of the stones. We have now the opportunity to separate responsible sources for gemstones from those that are not creating value for society. We can now give younger people one more reason to buy jewellery. Consumers are assured that they are doing something good when buying gemstones from responsible sources. We expect this project to boost the demand for responsibly sourced stones. Green sophistication No-oil emeralds Despite continued uncertainties of 7.22 carats in the global gemstone and jewellery and a 6.88-carat emerald from industry, high-quality goods such as Michael Gad clean, no-oil emeralds remain highly Emerald sought after in the market, according to Rami Sulemanoff, vice president of US-based emerald trader Michael Gad Emerald. Sulemanoff said a decline in the supply of midrange quality goods, coupled with weaker overall demand, was recorded in the beginning of 2017 but dealers consistently sold top-grade stones. Demand has shifted towards higher-quality stones such as no-oil emeralds. Customers are acquiring a more discerning eye and are interested in pieces that they know will still be valuable despite fluctuating financial markets, he said. The gemstone specialist said 5-carat to 10-carat goods valued at around $5,000 to $15,000 a carat are moving the fastest, adding that demand for no-oil stones remains consistent across all sizes. Devan Haldiya of Hong Kong-based Global Links also cited a robust market for emeralds, particularly stones of the highest quality from Colombia. The first six months of the year proved to be positive for the emerald industry. We are seeing signs of improvement in the trade. Colombian emeralds remain popular, especially the top-range, no-oil, Muzo-green goods. The challenge now is finding a market for the lower-quality stones, noted the company official. Buyers mainly go for emerald cuts while a wide range of sizes from half a carat to 20 carats and up is likewise in demand. The company s major markets are China, Hong Kong and Thailand but it is eyeing to expand its reach to other Southeast Asian countries such as Cambodia or Indonesia. The Chinese market only has eyes for exceptional emeralds so we need to find new markets to sell our other goods, particularly the mid- to lower-range stones, noted Haldiya. We are participating in more international fairs to find new areas of business. The global economy is still down and people s purchasing power has become weaker so we need to diversify and be more aggressive. 54

55 GEMSTONES New markets Guillermo Reyes, president of New York-based G & D Trade Inc, meanwhile, underscored the enduring appeal of the emerald as a gemstone of beauty and value. Why do people love emeralds? It s because green is the most captivating colour in the world. It means everything nature, life, hope. It s soothing to the eye and it makes the observer feel refreshed and at peace, noted Reyes. There will always be demand for top-notch stones from Colombia. The gemstone specialist mainly sells to the US, Asia and India. Chinese buyers want 1-carat to 2-carat no-oil stones in emerald cut while American clients look for big sizes such as 20-carat to 25-carat gem-quality, no-oil stones. These sell for $10,000 per carat and up. India, meanwhile, is on the lookout for commercialquality goods that cost between $25 per carat to $1,000 per carat, revealed the company official. He added that Asians also favour cabochons in a lighter shade of green because they resemble jade, which is an auspicious stone in China. Prices also pose a challenge for gemstone traders, according to Reyes. Even with less demand and a generally weaker economy, prices have increased by 15 percent to 20 percent from last year, he stated. We hope that Marcela Reyes, left, Enith Cancelado and Guillermo Reyes of G & D Trade Inc Zambian emeralds from Blue Star HK Rough and polished emeralds improvements in the market will soon materialise but it depends on the global economy. It s always good to be optimistic and that s why we continue to attend trade shows and look for new customers. China has a huge potential and we want to take advantage of business opportunities there. Emerald House Ltd of Hong Kong also sees strong demand for fine-quality stones. The dealer presented at the June Hong Kong Fair a carat pearshaped emerald from Afghanistan. The company s Ratnesh Tambi said the special emerald originates from the Panjshir mine. This emerald stands out in terms of cut and intensity of colour. If you look closely, the stone has inclusions, which is a natural occurrence in emeralds. The colour is vivid green and the shape is exceptional, noted Tambi. The company also has other top-quality emeralds in its inventory including layouts and matched pairs. It is extremely challenging to find stones of matching colours and sizes. These are very rare, Tambi added. Zambian gems Sarvesh Sonkia of emerald dealer Blue Star HK said emeralds continue to display their lustre in the fine gemstone and jewellery world, thanks to their historical significance and popularity. 55

56 GEMSTONES Auction houses have showcased mesmerising emeralds over the last six to eight months and this has inspired a lot of curiosity about the stone, remarked Sonkia. The company offers mainly Zambian emeralds but its inventory also includes Colombian emeralds. A model dons a set of Colombian emeralds emerald jewellery continue to be the most sought-after stones but we are seeing a lot of Chinese buyers becoming more interested in high-quality Zambian emeralds, he added. They are curious about these equally fascinating emeralds from Zambia. They find these stones attractive, highly accessible and more competitively priced. Potential customers may not readily buy but they are seriously considering such an alternative to Colombian emeralds, noted Sonkia. According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Colombian emeralds are said to have a warmer and more intense pure green colour while Zambian emeralds are deemed to have a cooler, more bluishgreen colour. Blue Star HK mainly sells to China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and the Middle East. Its major market, however, is the Greater China region. There s potential in India as well but Indian buyers are mostly interested in lower-quality goods, which are under $300 per carat. There are rich individuals, however, who Polished emerald buy single items, which cost a few hundred thousand dollars or even a million dollars, remarked Sonkia. He revealed that a certain percentage of Zambian emerald production has recently been found to be almost identical in colour to Colombian emeralds. Emerald is a very calming colour since green has always been known to soothe the eyes. The colour also goes well with a lot of things that s why emerald is the most flexible stone. If I want a collection of 5-carat sizes, that s easily doable. For jewellery manufacturers, it s easier to do business since they can make more types of jewellery, the gemstone expert said. Manoj Jain of Hong Kong-based Zambian emerald dealer Sunlight Gems, also echoed this sentiment, adding that the emerald s rich green hue not only connotes royalty but hope and renewal as well. A lot of people are drawn to emeralds because green is such a magical colour. It s elegant and fresh at the same time, said Jain. We saw steady movement in the emerald business during the first half of the year. Sunlight Gems strongest markets are the US, Europe and Southeast Asia. We have a manufacturing facility in India so we produce all shapes and sizes, including fancy and regular sizes. We offer a diverse product portfolio, which gives us an advantage. The prices are a bit higher now compared to last year but we re still doing business because top-quality goods will always have a following, Jain continued. The company official also Emerald House Ltd expressed confidence that the of Hong Kong s market will continue to move carat pearshaped emerald upward in the second half of from Afghanistan the year as buyers prepare for the holidays. We are hoping for a better outcome towards the end of the year. Companies need to remain proactive and train their sights on new markets to strengthen their businesses, noted Jain. For his part, Michael Gad s Sulemanoff said the emerald trade has remained strong over the years and this trend is expected to continue throughout the year. We anticipate a consistent increase in demand for finer-quality goods while we also expect the supply from Colombia to remain limited, he noted. Emeralds are valued for their deep rich green colour. Historically, many Middle Eastern and Asian cultures associate them with fertility and financial success. Emeralds are also mentioned throughout ancient Egyptian and Greek mythologies for their healing powers, and this rich historical past appeals to a great deal of people. Asia, US and the Middle East are seen to drive growth in the emerald industry, he added. JNA For more updates on the emerald trade, log on to jewellerynewsasia.com 56

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58 GEMSTONES Sri Lanka turns spotlight on fine gems and jewellery Nomad_Soul / Shutterstock This year s edition of Sri Lanka s leading international gem and jewellery show, Facets, is expected to make waves in the gemstone world. Scheduled for August 31 to September 3 at the Sirimavo Bandaranaike Memorial Exhibition Centre in Colombo, the 27 th edition of Facets will showcase the best of Sri Lanka s topmost resource, according to the event organiser, the Sri Lanka Gem & Jewelry Association (SLGJA). Facets promises to have something for every budget, from precious gemstones and jewellery to branded watches and trendy accessories. Over the years, Facets has captured the interest of experts and gemstone enthusiasts worldwide, and this year, the event is set to host an impressive number of international exhibitors featuring merchandise from all over the world, SLGJA said. Last year saw the introduction of the Premier Jewelry Pavilion and the Gem and Jewelry Mart. These features have been added to enhance the depth and breadth of the show s product offerings, and ensure that small- and mediumsized jewellery enterprises have a fair share of the spotlight. Given the success of these sections, the organising committee is introducing a Premier Gem Pavilion, which will display Sri Lanka s fine gems. The exhibition also features lapidarist stalls, gem labs and booths displaying machinery, equipment and tools. Industryrelated academic institutions, which cater to youngsters who are interested in the gemmological Buyers check out the gemstones at Sri Lanka s Facets show field and about the opportunities available in the industry, will also be represented at the show. Held under the patronage of President Maithripala Sirisena who will inaugurate the event, the exhibition is organised by SLGJA in partnership with the government s National Gem and Jewelry Authority and the Sri Lanka Export Development Board. SLGJA is a private sector organisation representing the interests of all industry sub-sectors in Sri Lanka, from mining and manufacturing to wholesaling and retailing. According to the association, the country s international gem and jewellery show has played a key role in promoting Sri Lanka s gemstone and jewellery exports, building strong local and international trade linkages at every level of the industry, and fortifying its position as a regional coloured gemstone trading hub. JNA 58

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60 DIAMONDS A love affair with diamonds De Beers Group CEO sees promising future for his favourite gem By Marie Feliciano Bruce Cleaver reflects on his first year as chief executive officer of the most famous name in the jewellery industry. In this Q&A, Cleaver shares his insights on the importance of category-based marketing campaigns that resonate with the diamond consumers of tomorrow, the opportunities in the Greater China market, and De Beers initiatives to make carbon-neutral mining a reality. De Beers Group CEO Bruce Cleaver Forevermark and Chow Tai Fook s Swan Forever Collection 60

61 DIAMONDS JNA: It s been a year since you have been appointed CEO of De Beers. What were your major accomplishments in your first year on the job? Bruce Cleaver: The past year has seen De Beers make a number of significant accomplishments that will be integral in shaping the future direction and success of our business. These include opening Gahcho Kuè in Canada, the world s largest new diamond mine in over a decade. We were very pleased that the mine reached commercial production in March, ahead of time and on budget. In collaboration with our partners in Namibia, we ve also inaugurated the mv SS Nujoma, the largest and most sophisticated diamond sampling and exploration vessel ever built. Meanwhile, good progress continues at our major multibillion-dollar capital expansion projects of Venetia Underground in South Africa and Jwaneng Cut-8 in Botswana. All of these will play a vital role in supporting this industry s future supply needs. Looking downstream, we acquired full ownership of De Beers Diamond Jewellers (DBDJ) for the first time since it was established in Meanwhile, we saw our Forevermark diamond jewellery brand surpass 2,000 retail doors globally, cementing it as one of the fastest-growing diamond jewellery brands in the world. We also ran a really strong marketing campaign in China, Live Your Love Today, under the Forevermark brand over the holiday season. We re really proud to have international stars such as Fan Bingbing and Emma Watson proudly wearing Forevermark diamond jewellery. At a broader industry level, we were very proud to have played leading roles with the Diamond Producers Association s (DPA) and Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council s marketing campaigns in the US and India, respectively, which focused on reinforcing the enduring, emotional value of diamonds to the key millennial market. The campaigns are the first to be run at a diamond category level in over a decade. They focus on drawing a connection between relationships and the real, rare nature of diamonds in an increasingly fast-paced, virtual world. Recently, we announced that the DPA s budget will see a major increase to around $60 million, and this will provide a major boost to the industry s consumer marketing activities. JNA: What were the biggest challenges that tested your mettle during that period? Cleaver: In today s increasingly unpredictable world, one of the challenges that I believe all business leaders have to deal with is that of ongoing volatility whether that be at the economic, political or regulatory level which can create unexpected situations for businesses and their stakeholders. The sudden introduction of demonetisation in India in late 2016 was an example of a political decision with good intentions having an unexpected and rapid impact on our business. De Beers responded quickly by offering additional flexibility to our customers to support them in the transition to the new monetary environment. As a result, the impacts of the unexpected situation have been effectively managed and it appears that the industry has seen more normal demand conditions return. Victor Mine 61

62 DIAMONDS This requirement to act quickly and respond decisively to change will, I believe, remain both a constant challenge and an opportunity for all of us in the diamond sector. JNA: The last few years felt more like a roller coaster ride for diamond industry stakeholders. What is your demand outlook for diamonds in 2017? Are we headed for better times? Cleaver: We are seeing consumer demand in India and China improving after a challenging year in 2016, and demand in the key US market remains positive overall, if a bit patchy. While macro-economic factors such as exchange rates and economic performance could impact demand, we believe there will be further, modest growth this year. Looking further ahead, the underlying drivers of consumer demand remain very strong. The continued growth of the middle classes in China and India present a major opportunity, and if we make sure we engage with younger consumers in the right way which is a big focus of our work currently then there is the real potential for a significant increase in global demand for diamond jewellery over the coming years. But the good news is that younger consumers are already expressing strong demand for diamonds a few key insights from our research last year highlighted the following: Millennials spent more than $25 billion on diamond jewellery in 2015 in the four largest consumer markets (US, China, India and Japan), acquiring more than any other generation. Despite Millennials facing more financial challenges than their parents generation, they already account for almost half of the total retail value of new diamond jewellery acquired in the four largest markets. In the top four markets, which account for 73 percent of global diamond jewellery demand, the potential Millennial market for diamond jewellery is more than 220 million people. The Millennial generation is not expected to reach its most affluent life stage for another 10 years, meaning this age cohort represents a significant growth opportunity. So there is a very strong platform for further growth, but we must ensure we maximise the potential of the opportunity in front of us and capitalise fully on the desire that Millennials have for the inherently valuable products we sell. The key for the industry is to recognise that the world is changing and to make sure we adapt to reflect that. Ring and earrings from the Movál Diamond Jewelry Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. The collection exclusively features Forevermark elongated oval-shaped diamonds, cut to perfection and specific proportions that maximise the stone s beauty, life, and brilliance For example, we must recognise that consumers are behaving in different ways. One way in which this has manifested itself is with the significant growth in women buying diamond jewellery for themselves. Diamonds are now not only seen as gifts of love, but much more often women are buying them as symbols of their own achievement, status, pride and optimism. Selfpurchase in the US market has grown by almost 50 percent in the last decade and now accounts for over $10 billion in the market almost a third of the total women s diamond jewellery market. We are also seeing self-purchase increase rapidly in other markets, so we need to be prepared to respond to this change with our product and promotion strategies. Meanwhile, the way in which people choose to buy diamonds is also changing fast. We are living through the digital revolution and this is having a big impact on the balance between bricks and mortar and online retailing outlets. In the US, we are seeing mall stores close faster than ever before and in China we know that more than half of all single women use the Internet in the diamond purchase process and over 60 percent of affluent Chinese consumers research their purchases online. So the future will definitely look different from the past, but if we react in the right way as an industry to the changes we are seeing, then we have a huge amount of opportunity in front of us and the future will be very bright. We are fortunate to work with a product that is inherently desirable, that lends itself very well to young consumers desire for things that are unique, meaningful and can be linked to experiences, and which is well-set to benefit from the growth of the middle classes globally. It s now down to us to make sure we capitalise fully on the opportunity in front of us. 62

63 DIAMONDS JNA: It might be too early to tell but have you already seen some positive results from DPA s Real is Rare campaign? How important is this initiative for the natural diamond industry? Cleaver: The Real is Rare campaign is extremely important as it carries out the long-term marketing role that is required to help shape generational attitudes towards diamonds and ensure that younger people continue to see that diamonds, with their inherent value, are the perfect symbols to represent the most important human emotions and occasions. Most marketing campaigns are focused on the short-term role of these examples driving consumers into stores ahead of key selling periods. While this is important, it s also crucial that we continue to reinforce the connection between diamonds and commitment in the minds of young consumers. Previous category-based marketing campaigns have been highly successful in this regard. However, the diamond consumers of tomorrow have very different purchasing drivers, life paths, views on traditions, journeys towards financial maturity and media consumption behaviours compared with their parents, so we need to connect with them in different ways. This campaign aims to reinforce the connection between diamonds and life s significant, emotional milestones in a way that resonates with the next generation of consumers. And the great news is that while the campaign already delivered excellent results in 2016 with a relatively small budget, in 2017 it will have a much bigger amount of money to spend on diamond promotion with the budget increasing to around $60 million so there is a great opportunity for it to make even more of an impact this year. JNA: Do you find advancements in the area of synthetic diamond manufacturing worrisome? Is the natural diamond sector at risk of losing some market share from synthetics? Cleaver: Synthetics are not new they have been around for many years and they are very different products from diamonds. While they have recently been receiving a lot of attention, the reality is that demand for synthetic jewellery products is still very limited. They might play a role as diamond imitation products, but they simply don t have the inherent value that diamonds have of being rare, unique and timeless which make diamonds a far more special and desired choice for representing the key emotional occasions in life. Synthetics are also expected to drop significantly in value, as is the case with any technological product that is mass-produced as the cost of production comes down. We have already seen this happen in some categories of synthetic diamond material, as well as with other synthetic versions of gemstones such as synthetic sapphires, emeralds and rubies. JNA: What is your business outlook for Greater China s diamond jewellery market? Will De Beers be organising Greater China-focused marketing campaigns to further drive demand? Cleaver: The early part of 2017 so far has seen positive growth in demand for diamond jewellery over Chinese New Year and for the first quarter as a whole. These positive developments have been driven by stronger economic growth, and the current outlook for the full year 2017 for mainland China is that we will see some further growth in local currency terms. In terms of our marketing campaigns, while it s still too early in the year to discuss any detailed plans, we do anticipate running further targeted impactful campaigns in the key consumer markets this year, including China of course, following the success of those we ran last year. JNA: Recently, De Beers announced that it is undertaking a research programme to make carbon-neutral mining a reality. How significant is this project for the diamond mining industry? Do you expect this to be a game-changer? Cleaver: We are extremely excited about our carbon storage research programme, which has huge potential to make a real impact on carbon emissions. Not only could De Beers completely offset all of our carbon emissions, but if the technology was adopted by other diamond mining companies, we could ultimately have a carbonneutral industry. There is even the potential that the technology could be adopted by mining companies outside the diamond industry, such as nickel and platinum producers. We believe business has moral responsibility to play a role in efforts to reduce climate change. We are very proud to be leading this ground-breaking project as part of our wider programme of environmental management activities, spanning land conservation through to water, energy and carbon emissions strategies. JNA For more diamond industry updates, log on to jewellerynewsasia.com 63

64 DIAMONDS Dominion reveals CanadaMark Jewellery Design Competition winner La Pierre Précieuse Inc from Montreal, Quebec was the winner of the 2017 CanadaMark Jewellery Design Competition award, Dominion Diamond Corporation recently announced. The competition honours jewellery pieces with the highest level of creativity and excellence in quality and style, showcasing CanadaMark-certified diamonds. Retailers from across Canada were invited to submit a unique pendant design featuring a CanadaMark certified diamond. In celebration of Canada s 150 th birthday, the theme for each design was Canada. Out of the 10 finalists selected by Dominion, La Pierre Précieuse s design was chosen by consumers as the favourite through a vote held on the CanadaMark website, which was open to the general public in Canada for four weeks ending May 31, The winning pendant features a carat, round brilliant CanadaMark-certified stone centred in a warm rose gold maple leaf setting with a Canadian maple wood background. The award for the winning design was presented to La Pierre Précieuse on June 7 at the CanadaMark cocktail reception at the JCK Las Vegas show. The award featured a plaque with a stone carving by Wayne Nataway, an artist from the Northwest Territories. The piece is called Transformation and was carved by the artist in The winning pendant was purchased by Dominion and awarded to one of the participating consumer voters at random. The Arctic Sun fancy vivid yellow diamond is presented at Dominion Diamond Corporation s cocktail reception in Las Vegas. It is the largest fancy yellow stone recovered to date in North America at rough carats. The polished gem weighs carats James Pounds, executive vice president for Diamonds at Dominion Diamond Corporation The winning pendant by La Pierre Précieuse The CanadaMark diamond hallmark programme is owned by Dominion. Every CanadaMark diamond is responsibly mined in the Northwest Territories, natural and untreated, tracked through audited processes at every stage from country of origin to polished stone, and polished to meet specific quality standards, according to the company. The CanadaMark programme is unique in that it creates an unbroken and independently audited chain of origin, it added. Also at the cocktail reception, Dominion presented the Arctic Sun, the largest fancy yellow stone recovered to date in North America at rough carats, with an estimated polished value of $5 million. The diamond was recovered from the Misery pipe, which continues to produce outstanding large fancy yellow diamonds, providing upside to modelled diamond prices, the miner said. In May 2017, a positive pre-feasibility study was completed on the development of an underground operation below the Misery Main open pit at the Ekati mine. The pre-feasibility study was based on the mining of Misery Deep between calendar years 2018 and 2022, and a probable mineral reserve of 1.8 million tonnes of kimberlite and 8.7 million carats, on a 100 percent basis. Construction of the project has been approved by the board of directors and permit applications are expected to be filed in the third quarter of this year, according to Dominion. JNA 64

65 DIAMONDS Venus Jewel launches user-friendly mobile App Venus Jewel, one of the world s recognised leaders in solitaire production, launched its mobile App at the 2017 edition of JCK Las Vegas. The App brings the company s high-value diamonds to the fingertips of professional diamond buyers, retailers and jewellery manufacturers, enabling them to access Venus Jewel s diamond inventory anywhere, anytime, the diamond manufacturer said. The App provides the features that Venus Jewel s state-of-the-art website, has to offer, according to the company. One of the App s exceptional features is a user-friendly voice recognition software. Additionally, the diamond manufacturer served as the WiFi sponsor at the show to enable its clients to access the mobile App without having to worry about connectivity. With the launch of the App, Venus Jewel anticipates increased customer convenience and confidence. In a time when everything from business to planning vacations is done via smartphones, it was natural for us to answer market demand and create a truly global App with instant search, confirmation and live shipment status of diamonds. The mobile App offers unprecedented access to real-time pricing, diamond comparison and instant allocation of diamonds at a swipe, said Rajesh Shah, a partner at Venus Jewel. The App does not only help clients conduct quick diamond searches but it also confirms Venus Jewel International Managing Director Mahiar Borhanjoo, left, and Jagat Thakker, head of marketing and PR of Venus Jewel the selected diamonds instantly from their smartphones. The App also has the following features: Bid functionalities (PDS) just like venusjewel.com; ability to purchase diamonds anywhere; view future availability; complete diamond traceability for all its diamonds, from rough, planning to polish; compare diamonds side by side; find the perfect matched pair of diamonds; and the ability to and message others about diamond details. Also at the show, the diamond manufacturer livened up its stand with hologram machines, which provide buyers a threedimensional view of the diamonds they are perusing. So, when people come and say, I m here looking for this stone, and do you have it available? we actually start out in the front and search for that particular stone, but we continue with the story from the stone s origin and how it was planned through the piece of rough diamond and finally, to the polished outcome. We finish the presentation with the virtual aspect of the stone, Mahiar Borhanjoo, managing director of Venus Jewel International, said in an earlier interview. The holographic display gives buyers a virtual look of what the diamond is, in addition to images and videos. This service is part of Venus Jewel s efforts to delight its customers. Our chairman, Sevantibhai (Sevantilal Shah, founder and chairman of Venus Jewel), has always said, Venus Jewel s vision is centred around every diamond that we polish and its positive impact on our partners. We must always help our customers get what they want when they need it, Borhanjoo said. This is a very important thing for us to strive for every day. JNA 65

66 DIAMONDS SRK s booth at JCK Las Vegas SRK unveils new brand promise, e-commerce portal Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd (SRK) launched at JCK Las Vegas its new brand identity and portal, which company leaders said are representative of SRK s vision and transformation into a forward-thinking and dynamic diamond manufacturer. The milestone event, which centred on the company s new brand promise Pure Light was led by SRK founder Govind Dholakia. The new website, SRK.One, offers excellent user-friendly experience, and is equipped with virtually every tool that can help a client make the right decision when purchasing a diamond, according to SRK Director Shreyans Dholakia. One also takes on a deeper meaning for SRK, Shreyans said. One is the first whole number. SRK believes in wholeness, which SRK founder Govind Dholakia, fifth from right, joins SRK officials and industry experts at the unveiling of the company s new brand identity at JCK Las Vegas is reflected in the SRK family culture where SRK counts all its customers, stakeholders, associates, vendors, including its craftsmen, as family members, he said. The new logo symbolically puts the diamond on a pedestal, the company official said. The Erik Jens of ABN Amro Bank NV delivers a presentation at SRK s breakfast event in Las Vegas placement of the letters S, R and K resembles a diamond being held up by pillars, which are representative of the four essential elements of a diamond Cut, Carat, Colour and Clarity. The Diamond, standing tall, resembles SRK s stature in the industry, owing to its strong principles, Shreyans said. To mark the occasion, SRK hosted a panel discussion featuring Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at the GIA; Erik Jens, member of the management team for international clients and CEO for Diamond & Jewellery Clients at ABN Amro Bank NV; and Paul Rowley, executive vice president for De Beers Global Sightholder Sales. The discussion was moderated by Rob Bates. JNA 66

67 DIAMONDS GIA develops innovative app for modern consumers Millennials are changing the landscape of diamond jewellery retail in today s consumer market. With this in mind, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created M2M, a digital storytelling platform and app that provides a closer look into a diamond s journey from mine to market, giving today s consumers a more interactive and inventive retail experience. According to Matt Crimmin, vice president of laboratory operations of the GIA, the institute considered three market factors when it developed M2M: Millennials expectation of a better buying experience from retailers; consumers focusing on gemmological reports alone due to increased online research; and the need for retailers to clearly explain to the consumer the difference between natural and synthetic diamonds. Better jewellery stories may enhance the in-store experience, increase overall category interest and limit category defection. GIA has the scale, experience and credibility to deliver compelling stories to satisfy new consumer needs, commented Crimmin at a seminar on the sidelines of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Dr. Shoko Odake, assistant manager of Gem Identification of GIA s Tokyo laboratory, meanwhile, talked about id100, GIA s new gemstone-testing device, which can test loose or mounted diamonds of all sizes and shapes. The easy-to-operate, sophisticated desktop instrument reliably identifies natural diamonds from all simulants and from diamonds that may be synthetic or treated, revealed GIA. According to GIA, the mounted gem-testing device combines advanced spectroscopic technology; GIA s extensive research into the qualities of natural, treated and synthetic diamonds; and decades of diamond analysis experience to identify more than 97 percent of untreated natural mounted and unmounted D-to-Z colour diamonds sized 0.9 mm or Matt Crimmin, vice president of laboratory operations of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) talks about M2M, GIA s new digital storytelling platform and app greater in diameter (approximately carat). Diamonds that may be synthetic or treated and all simulants are referred for further examination and confirmation. Screening of pink diamonds and identification of some coloured gemstones such as rubies, sapphires and emeralds are currently being tested, revealed Dr. Odake. JNA Dr. Shoko Odake, assistant manager of Gem Identification of GIA s Tokyo laboratory, explains how id100 works at a seminar on the sidelines of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 67

68 DIAMONDS Forevermark captures eternal love with latest collections Diamond jeweller Forevermark is adding sparkle to the promise of love and marriage with fine jewellery pieces from its Endlea and Red Carpet Collections. Famous Chinese actress and model Christine Kuo embodied the charm and allure of Forevermark diamonds, according to the jeweller. In a recent photoshoot, Kuo donned pieces from Forevermark s Endlea and Red Carpet Collections. Crafted in the brand s Design and Innovation Centre in Milan, each piece from the collections commemorates moments in a woman s life to be remembered forever, noted the jeweller. Kuo perfectly displayed four qualities that capture the pure rush of excitement experienced by brides-to-be. These include delicate femininity, passionate heart, freshfaced beauty and flawless grace. These attributes are likewise symbolised by pavé earrings, rings, necklaces and bangles from the Forevermark Endlea and Red Carpet Collections. With less than 1 percent of the world s diamonds eligible to become a Forevermark diamond, each diamond comes with a promise that it is beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced, noted Forevermark. Every Forevermark Chinese actress and model Christine Kuo dons jewellery pieces from Forevermark s Endlea and Red Carpet Collections diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection, ensuring that only the most beautiful diamonds are chosen to be inscribed with a unique inscription and number, which identifies it to be your Forevermark diamond forever. Forevermark is a worldrenowned diamond brand from The De Beers Group of Companies. It is available in over 2,000 stores across 25 markets worldwide. JNA Stellar Diamonds to divest non-core assets in Guinea Stellar Diamonds Plc has entered an agreement to sell its assets in the Republic of Guinea for $2 million. The deal, which was entered into BDG Capital Ltd, stipulates an exclusivity period of two months for due diligence and completion of documentation. Karl Smithson, chief executive of Stellar, commented, The proceeds will be used to advance the development of our flagship Tongo-Tonguma kimberlite project in Sierra Leone a project that has an estimated post-tax net present value of $104 million attributable to Stellar. Rough diamonds from Stellar Diamond Plc s Tongo project He added that the proposed Tongo-Tonguma mine has a low capex requirement of $32 million and the potential to be the second-largest kimberlite diamond mine in West Africa with forecast production levels of 200,000 carats per annum, generating revenues of over $45 million per annum over a minimum life of mine of 21 years. The proposed disposal of our Guinea assets allows management to focus on the Tongo-Tonguma mine development. It also allows for BDG to take the projects forward, which is in the interests of Guinea and local stakeholders, added Smithson. We look forward to unlocking the significant value that we believe is inherent in the Tongo-Tonguma development as we advance the company towards sustained commercial production. JNA 68

69 DIAMONDS Alrosa to strengthen focus on market leadership and business muscle Open-pit mine at Alrosa s Mir pipe in Yakutia Russian diamond miner Alrosa is planning to boost its development strategy, with a strong focus on fortifying its top position in the industry. According to Alrosa President Sergey Ivanov, the company remains dedicated to strengthening its leadership in diamond mining and building market strength. We see a lot of potential in our infrastructure projects, including those in Angola. We have already signed documents on the establishment of a joint venture company for the development of Luele pipe the largest pipe discovered over the past 60 years. Alrosa also plans to increase its share in Catoca Ltd Mining Co up to 41 percent, revealed Ivanov during an annual shareholders meeting. The company will continue its work on the implementation of our investment projects in Yakutia, including those related to the establishment of a diamond mining facility at Verkhne-Munskoe deposit. In the meantime, Alrosa will gradually reduce its costs and Diamond sorting at Yakutsk in Yakutia improve efficiency, and make structural and staff changes in the company if the situation requires. The company needs to be reformed inside to have greater manageability and transparency. I can give an upbeat assessment of the operation of our production facilities in Yakutia. We are also facing changes in the administrative staff with a view to improve the company s internal efficiency, continued the company official. He stressed that Alrosa will modify business processes, improve the quality of managerial decisions and performance discipline, and optimise costs. Ivanov also disclosed that Alrosa s investments in underground mines and other core production facilities amounted to RUB 16.5 billion (around $280 million) or 60 percent of the company s total capital investments in The miner started developing a new primary diamond deposit at Zarya, which is one of Alrosa s largest investment projects. Its development guarantees loading of existing capacities of the Aikhal Mining and Processing Division for at least two decades ahead, noted the company. Alrosa is also still actively working to establish a diamond mining facility on the deposit of Verkhne-Munskoe kimberlite field. In accordance with the investment agreement signed with the Ministry for the Development of the Russian Far East in 2016, the total investment in the development of the deposit will be RUB 63 billion (around $1.06 billion). According to Sergey Ivanov, government support for the project emphasises its importance and potential for the development of the Russian Far East. JNA Lucapa completes latest sale of Lulo diamonds Lucapa Diamond Co Ltd recently sold a total of 1,236 carats of alluvial diamonds from its Lulo Diamond Project in Angola as part of its 5 th sale for Lucapa, along with its partners Empresa Nacional de Diamantes EP and Rosas & Petalas, achieved gross proceeds of $950,000, representing an average price per carat of $770. The sale brought gross proceeds from Lulo diamond sales to date to $15.4 million at an average price per carat of $1,620. Similar to Lucapa s previous sales, the latest diamond parcel was sourced primarily from mining block 28 at Lulo. Mining has since returned to higher-value mining blocks 8 and 6 following the end of the Angolan wet season, revealed Lucapa. JNA Diamond parcels from Lucapa Diamond Co Ltd s Lulo Diamond Project 69

70 DIAMONDS De Beers Group announces plans to invest in start-ups The De Beers Group of Companies is establishing De Beers Ventures to actively consider the acquisition of minority equity stakes in start-ups and growth companies. The new initiative will consider small investments in areas that may include downstream distribution, consumer brands, marketing platforms, security, cutting and polishing, and imaging technologies. The objectives of the investments will be to generate returns that are both strategic and financial. Tom Montgomery, senior vice president of Strategic Initiatives at De Beers Group, said: Not all good ideas can be generated or executed by a large corporation. We believe that harnessing the energy of entrepreneurs to pursue strategic opportunities that benefit De Beers and the diamond industry can be a cost-effective, risk-reduced way to pursue innovation. In another development, De Beers said demand for rough diamonds continued to strengthen, thanks to positive trends in the global market. Citing the latest data from its Global Sightholder Sales and Auction Sales, the group revealed that the provisional value of its rough diamond sales for the 5 th sales cycle of 2017 reached $530 million. Bruce Cleaver, CEO of De Beers Group, commented, Following positive feedback from the Las Vegas trade show, and in line with recent trends, we saw continued good demand for De Beers rough diamonds in the fifth sales cycle of the year. The group s rough diamond sales hit $564 million during the De Beers Venetia Mine same period in The Cycle provisional sales value represented sales as at June 19, Sales values are quoted on a consolidated accounting basis and are before capitalisation of precommercial production revenues at Gahcho Kué. Auction Sales included in a given cycle are the sum of all sales between the end of the preceding cycle and the end of the noted cycle, added De Beers. JNA De Beers Group of Companies Digital expert heads online diamond retailer Blue Nile Blue Nile Inc, an online retailer of diamonds and fine jewellery, appointed seasoned merchandising and digital executive Jason Goldberger as president and CEO. Goldberger replaced Harvey Kanter, who now serves as chairman of the board of directors and continues to play an important role in the strategic direction of the company, according to Blue Nile. Goldberger brings to Blue Nile more than 20 years of executive leadership in merchandising, digital innovation, marketing and product management across leading online retail organisations including Target, Gilt Groupe, Hayneedle and Amazon, disclosed the company. He most recently served as chief digital officer and president of Target.com, where he was responsible for digital strategy and execution. Blue Nile has offered customers unsurpassed value in an easy, intuitive shopping experience for nearly 20 years. I am truly excited to lead the company in deepening our relationship with customers to accelerate the growth of our business, said Goldberger. We will continue to build on our leadership position to drive profitable growth through enhanced marketing, investments in the user experience, improved sourcing, and a continued focus on offering the most compelling diamond and fine jewellery assortment in the world. Kanter, meanwhile, commented, Jason is an experienced leader with deep e-commerce experience who will work closely with the team to innovate, secure and further our position as the smartest, easiest and most pressure-free way for consumers to buy a diamond. I look forward to working with him as Blue Nile continues to create superior customer experiences. JNA 70

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