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Agnes Lewis
5 years ago
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2 It was no ordinary day; it felt like stepping into the royal court of a sumptuous wonderland. One outdoor area celebrates the vigour of Mother Nature with moss beds, groves, ferns and grasses thriving in deceptively natural formations, around and above a longitudinal central pool. Not far away in an exquisite salon, which is delicately illuminated by sumptuous crystal chandeliers, harpsichord music floats out to greet the invitees. This epicurean scene sets the mood for the pièce de resistance: a dark gallery whose central otherworldly tree extends over several glass cabinets that are standing along the walls at regular intervals. Purple accents and the glowing light of the glass units enhance the captivating mysteriousness of the spectacle. An exquisite artwork, covering one entire wall, is the ultimate clue that ties everything together: a depiction of A Midsummer Night s Dream, the famous play by William Shakespeare and the name and inspiration for M s first high jewellery collection (for which the above-described April 2017 gala was organised at the Royal Mansour Palace, Marrakech).

3 In my mind, every piece of jewellery tells a tale and feels alive I can actually see them moving! Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Meryem of Morocco muses. M was founded in 2012 by Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Meryem of Morocco, with a game-changing vision at its heart. A piece at a time, M intends to bring a breath of fresh air to the tightly ruled haute joaillerie club; paving the way for renditions whose creativity is to be above any commercial, marketing or financial concerns. The idea is to ignite a passion for and emotional connection to the art of haute joaillerie by freeing it from preconceptions. Haute joaillerie can be playful, uninhibited and irreverent towards the status quo. It should be innovative within the parameters of wearable art. This free spirited creative approach allows Her Royal Highness to embrace a sky-is-thelimit approach, delving into every corner of her imagination, broadening the traditional array of gemstones used, and ultimately pushing out the limits of what has been done or is possible to do, especially when it comes to elaborate volumes. Nothing is indeed flatlined or one dimensional in M jewellery, as it is all about relief and depth, compositions that burst with vitality.

Collaborating with only the best ateliers namely the renowned Parisian workshops attached to the Place Vendôme guarantees such exceptional craftsmanship and superlative pedigree, as well as achieving

4 Collaborating with only the best ateliers namely the renowned Parisian workshops attached to the Place Vendôme guarantees such exceptional craftsmanship and superlative pedigree, as well as achieving the necessary unparalleled level of detail (most of which are hidden or known only to the wearer) and the most audacious designs that honour two sides of the same coin: the sensible and the invisible. Besides the exceptionality of the creations is in part supported by the use of only the best gemstones; and by best I mean non heated, and non treated gemstones throughout the entire collection, for every single piece. Making of one of the DEMETRIUS ET HELENA & LYSANDRE ET HERMIA cuffs; nail-setting of the colour graded baguette-cut gemstones one by one.

5 HIPPOLYTA Neckpiece in 18K grey gold set with taviz cut diamonds (69.38 carats), brilliantcut diamonds (33.52 carats), moonstones (1.25 carats) and keshi pearls (16 carats); A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA.

In some instances, the boundaries between jewel and apparel are indeed blurred; the diamond and pearl cascade of the Hippolyta collar neckpiece (previous spread) or the Phalene butterfly Neckpiece

6 In some instances, the boundaries between jewel and apparel are indeed blurred; the diamond and pearl cascade of the Hippolyta collar neckpiece (previous spread) or the Phalene butterfly Neckpiece that spreads its wings on one s back like a cape are both decorative structures that hang on the body to beautify its form. PHALENE Neckpiece in 18K grey gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds (44.61 carats), brilliant-cut black diamonds (4.43 carats), sapphires (2.6 carats), spinels (1.77 carats) and aquamarines (0.85 carat); A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA.

7 Detail of the PHALENE Neckpiece.

8 In these fluid pieces, the structural delimitations of an invisible form give a clear nod to haute couture garments. The PHALENE Neckpiece blurs the line between high jewellery and haute couture.

9 We should always be amazed by high jewellery, it should always be a source of awe, and we should never settle for less. In that respect, High Jewellery belongs to the realm of dreams Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Meryem of Morocco observes. An accomplished gemmologist and a keen art lover, Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Meryem naturally supervises the genesis of each piece, and it is apparent that she has a predilection for pairing precious with semi-precious, while marrying varied cuts together and meshing what nature intended versus the human touch (i.e. some gems are superbly hand carved to suit a pattern). As a result, the eleven one-of-a-kind renditions of A Midsummer Night s Dream form an enchanting theatre rife with beguiling characters; rare and unconventional gemstones abound in a wide range of seductive hues, forming a dazzling array of bold yet refined designs. It is a mysterious and sensual world in which it seems mythical creatures coexist with naturalistic treasures. What impresses most is the way in which each piece is homage to a fragment of the famous tale (either as an abstract or a figurative tribute), as if the story could now be told through three-dimensional, bejewelled, visual metaphors. Moreover, there is a philosophical dimension at the heart of this collection, a clear separation between mortal (humans) and immortal (fairies) characters in terms of how they are designed. The former are portrayed with symmetry how life is bound by a linear time span while the latter are fully organic no beginning or end.

TAP HERE TO VISUALISE THE BEAUTY OF THE TITANIA NECKPIECE IN FULL ACTION TITANIA Neckpiece in 18K white and yellow gold, pink and blue titanium, and set with brilliant-cut diamonds (39 carats), 2

10 TAP HERE TO VISUALISE THE BEAUTY OF THE TITANIA NECKPIECE IN FULL ACTION TITANIA Neckpiece in 18K white and yellow gold, pink and blue titanium, and set with brilliant-cut diamonds (39 carats), 2 Fancy Yellow diamonds (3.91 and 4.28 carats), one 6.51-carat hexagonal emerald, one spessartite garnet, aquamarines, tourmalines, amethysts, peridots, spinels, fire opal, tsavorite garnets; A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA. Two pieces that took more time in the making due to their complexity and that have just been released perfectly illustrate this. First is the Titania Neckpiece, a miracle of intertwining and a representation of the heroin s freewill as she stands strong before her husband Oberon. In this deceptively light and fluid neckpiece, the four climbers (two of which are fully coloured gem-paved, whilst the other two made of titanium are diamond-studded) seem inextricably bound, and in their midst important gemstones are held tightly.

TAP HERE TO VISUALISE THE BEAUTY OF THE TITANIA NECKPIECE IN FULL ACTION One is a hexagonally shaped emerald, whose verdant depth is like a piercing heart; the other two are pear-shaped Fancy Yellow

11 TAP HERE TO VISUALISE THE BEAUTY OF THE TITANIA NECKPIECE IN FULL ACTION One is a hexagonally shaped emerald, whose verdant depth is like a piercing heart; the other two are pear-shaped Fancy Yellow diamonds which hang at the ends like two forbidden fruits or the seeds from which the lianas have sprouted. Detail of the TITANIA Neckpiece, with focus on the striking hexagonal emerald that instils depth and mystery to the ensemble.

12 Detail of the TITANIA Neckpiece, with focus on the formidable Fancy Yellow diamonds that hang like precious seeds. TAP HERE TO VISUALISE THE BEAUTY OF THE TITANIA NECKPIECE IN FULL ACTION The Titania Neckpiece is so bountiful rich in its variety of cuts and colours and extraordinarily precious, that it prompts the question of who is wearing whom. Is the wearer wearing the neckpiece or the neckpiece wearing the wearer? Because it is entirely articulated, there is no doubt the artwork and the wearer would become one. A video of the masterpiece neckpiece is shown in this article, and when watching it, I defy you not to sense Titania s formidable independence behind the unconventional beauty of the neckpiece.

13 PUCK Watch with Chain in 18K rose gold set with one 0.57-carat emerald cabochon on the crown, enamel on mother of pearl for the dial, enamel anti-clockwise numbering, hand engraved case, handwound movement equipped with an ACT 11 Armin Strom tourbillon, sapphire glass; A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA. Then comes the delightful Puck Pocket Watch whose dial depicts Puck (also known as Robin Goodfellow), an enchanting character in Shakespeare s play A Midsummer Night s Dream, and based on the ancient figure of Puck found in English mythology. Puck is a playful elf and in this watch, he seems in conversation with a fairy, the content of which exchange is engraved all along the side of the case. It says While these visions did appear, And this weak and idle theme, No more yielding but a dream, which is one of Puck s final lines which conclude the play.

14 This timepiece is an enchanting take on the land of mythical heroes and fables. The watch itself is generously proportioned, the front and back of the case have flattering curved rims and it is set in warm 18K rose gold. Reverse of the PUCK Watch with focus on the tourbillon movement.

The beauty here goes hand in hand with the best of timekeeping technology as it is fitted with an Armin-Strom hand-wound tourbillon movement from the Swiss manufacture of same name in Biel.

15 The beauty here goes hand in hand with the best of timekeeping technology as it is fitted with an Armin-Strom hand-wound tourbillon movement from the Swiss manufacture of same name in Biel. Upon closer inspection, there is a sense of it is not what it seems as the movement appears to be anti-clockwise; a genius touch in line with Puck s mischief and the fact that after all, in fairyland, anything can happen. Double view of the PUCK Watch, front and back.

Other lyrical renditions from the same collection must be singled out: the Graine de Moutarde Ring (Mustard Seed), a ring beautiful from all sides a golden symphony of convoluted arborescence with

16 GRAINE DE MOUTARDE Ring (front & back) in 18K grey gold, whose petals are set with white diamonds and brilliant-cut yellow diamonds (13.65 carats), whose pistil is made of orange-tinted sapphire cabochons (7.46 carats) and three pear shaped cognac diamonds (2.64 carats); A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA. Other lyrical renditions from the same collection must be singled out: the Graine de Moutarde Ring (Mustard Seed), a ring beautiful from all sides a golden symphony of convoluted arborescence with its full blooming layers of gem-paved petals that erupt from a golden heart. The cluster of amber tinted sapphire beads, each of which is suspended by a golden thread, hosts three magnificent pear shaped cognac diamonds. The core of the flower seems to overflow with precious nectar as it sizzles like magma.

17 Detail of the GRAINE DE MOUTARDE Ring to showcase the fiery core made of sapphires and diamonds.

In keeping with the floral theme (albeit a supernatural one), let s admire the Fleur des Pois Earrings (pea flowers) whose poetic elegance is compounded by a ravishing lifelikeness FLEUR DES POIS

18 In keeping with the floral theme (albeit a supernatural one), let s admire the Fleur des Pois Earrings (pea flowers) whose poetic elegance is compounded by a ravishing lifelikeness FLEUR DES POIS Earrings in 18K grey gold whose flowers are hand sculpted pink quartz roses, with carved as leaves emeralds (29.68 carats) and tsavorite garnets (6 carats); A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA.

Or the intoxicating Vagabonde Neckpiece, a portable microcosm of a heavenly forest that is brimming with vital force: vines and foliage intertwine a

19 Or the intoxicating Vagabonde Neckpiece, a portable microcosm of a heavenly forest that is brimming with vital force: vines and foliage intertwine a gem-studded trunk made of African ebony where emeralds hang like ripe delicacies. Detail of the VAGABONDE Neckpiece to shed light on the captivating intricacies at play.

VAGABONDE Neckpiece in 18K grey gold made of Macassar ebony wood, with lianas in lacquered 18K gold, three pear shaped emeralds (18.14 carats), diamonds (12.

20 VAGABONDE Neckpiece in 18K grey gold made of Macassar ebony wood, with lianas in lacquered 18K gold, three pear shaped emeralds (18.14 carats), diamonds (12.12 carats), tsavorite garnets, peridots, green Paraiba tourmalines, red and pink spinels, aquamarines, amethysts, fire opals and sapphires; A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA

21 In terms of a more abstract rendering, the Demetrius Et Helena & Lysandre Et Hermia Cuffs straddle the line between oneiric and sculptural. DEMETRIUS ET HELENA & LYSANDRE ET HERMIA Cuffs, both in 18K yellow gold; one with carved turquoise, yellow sapphires (12.99 carats), orange sapphires (12.43 carats), garnets (11.45 carats), rubies (10.85 carats) and citrines (8.76 carats); the other with carved carnelian, blue sapphires (62.66 carats) and aquamarines (8.34 carats); A Midsummer Night s Dream collection. POA

22 Asymmetry (different colour gradients) meets symmetry (nail-set baguette-cut stones) and this sets each cuff ablaze; romantic cameos (one on each) act as love emblems. Detail of one of the DEMETRIUS ET HELENA & LYSANDRE ET HERMIA cuffs with carved carnelian.

23 They gracefully depict the two main amorous stories of the Shakespearian tale. Notwithstanding the chromatic differences, symmetry here prevails indicating that these love stories are finite. Detail of the DEMETRIUS ET HELENA & LYSANDRE ET HERMIA Cuffs, and their seamless opening and fastening.

24 I often marvel at jewellery that speaks to the mind, and well, M has surpassed my expectations in that regard. The way each piece is its own portal to another dimension contributes to the positioning of M haute joaillerie at the level where haute joaillerie s rightful place should be: one that is all about extraordinary feats and escapism. The creations of M indeed radiate an expression of preternatural force rarely seen in haute joaillerie. In other words they are nothing short of miraculous. Enchanting décor for the launch of A Midsummer Night s Dream collection, which set the tone for a magical journey with sublime jewels.

Notes on an Obsession

Notes on an Obsession May 2017 by Olivier Dupon Each month in this column, I will share my secret jewellery discoveries with you; a selection of up to five jewellery pieces based on their craftsmanship