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1 Page 1 of 154 Click Here To Take Test Now (Complete the Reading Material first then click on the Take Test Now Button to start the test. Test is at the bottom of this page) HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT SECTION 1: 12 HOUR HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT Course Outline: Section 1: Introduction History of Color Basic Chemistry Section 2: Hair Toner Hair Color Removal Process Punk Hair How-To Photo Galleries and Tips Blonde Hair Styles Red Hair Brunette Hair

2 Page 2 of 154 Section 3: New Hair Color Trends Going from Blonde to Dark Highlighting Hair Using Foils Foiling Hair Highlight/Lowlight Process Using Foil Hair Coloring How-To Tutorial Section 4: Bleaching Hair Hair Bleach Hair Bleaching for Blonding Coloring Grey Hair How Hair Coloring Works Section 5: Types of Hair Coloring Adverse Effects of Hair Coloring Choosing a Hair Color Alternatives to Industrial Tints Section 6: Hair Coloring Techniques Hair Coloring Ideas Summary of Hair Color Chemistry Coloring During Pregnancy Section 7:

3 Page 3 of 154 Salon Business Management and Strategies Learning Objectives: Upon completion of this course the student will be knowledgably informed of the following topics: 1. The History of Color Early records show that the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians, Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention using hair colourings in one form or another. Humans were likely dyeing their hair well before the ancient Egyptians discovered that the leaves of the henna shrub could restore a youthful black or red to their locks, even for those being mummified. 2. Basic Chemistry Hair Coloring Formula Virgin Hair (no artificial color present) Underlying Pigment + Artificial Pigments Final Result Previously Colored Hair Underlying Pigment of Regrowth + Existing Artificial Pigments + Artificial Pigments in New Color

4 Page 4 of 154 Final Result 3. The Color Wheel and Underlying Pigments 4. Toning Hair Tips and Techniques Anytime you pre-lighten the hair and add another color to tone out the underlying pigments, the process can be considered "toning". 5. Techniques for Removing Artificial Pigment Oxidative hair color removers remove artificial pigments without bleach. They work by shrinking the color molecule so that it washes out of the hair. 6. Tips for Creating Bright, Wild Colors (Punk Hair Color) Punk hair color is fun to experiment with and makes a bold statement to the world about who you are. This section details the process for bleaching hair and applying your hair color successfully. 7. Selecting Hair Color Shades for Clients For very fair skin, a touch of gold in your blonde shade can help to warm up your skin tone. Ash tones are great for those who have a reddish complexion as the cool hues will help neutralize the redness.

5 Page 5 of Choosing the Right Blonde, Red, and Brunette Coloring Getting a natural looking blonde hair style is tricky. Most people's hair has a lot of yellow-orange underlying pigment. To achieve a very light blonde, the hair MUST be lightened to the pale yellow stage. 9. Highlighting Hair Using Foils This section will detail the technical aspects of highlighting hair using foils (or another material). Foiling hair is a hair coloring technique used to separate sections, preventing different color formulas from mixing together. 10. Bleaching Hair/Mixing, Application, and Processing This section offers advice on bleaching hair. You'll find information on mixing, application, and processing times when using bleach. 11. Hair Bleach, Cautions and Considerations Get advice on using hair bleach safely and effectively. If you're doing an allover blonde hair color, you'll have to apply hair bleach to the scalp, which can cause blistering and chemical burns. 12. Hair Bleaching for Blonding This section offers advice on hair bleaching safely and effectively to get a true blonde hair color. 13. Coloring Grey Hair The process of coloring grey hair can be challenging. And as the ratio of grey/natural hair shifts to a majority of grey hair, the challenge increases... or so it seems. This section details the critical elements, as well as a few "insider tips" for success.

6 Page 6 of How Hair Coloring Work The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before treatment. 15. Types of Hair Color The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent', 'demi-permanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only') and "permanent". 16. Adverse Effects of Hair Coloring Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. We will discuss how the use of these chemicals can result in a range of adverse effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin discoloration and unexpected hair color results. 17. Hair Coloring Techniques Modern hair coloring techniques add true dimension to style right down to the natural movement of your hair. We will discuss the concepts of highlights, twilights, and lowlights and how these choices enhance both your face and your hairstyle. 18. New and Innovative Hair Coloring Ideas Expert beauty consultants predict that the trend in hair colors is moving away from dramatic color and back towards more natural colors and highlighting techniques. 19. Chemistry of Hair Coloring

7 Page 7 of 154 Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is an oxidizing chemical that bleaches the natural pigments in human hair. 20. Coloring during Pregnancy Ultimately, the decision of whether to color hair during pregnancy is a very personal one. This class will talked about the pros and cons of receiving hair color during pregnancy. 21. Salon Business Management and Strategies Writing a Salon Business Plan is one of the first things you should do if you are planning on starting your own Salon business. By means of examples, this section will give some practical ideas and strategies to start a successful salon business. 22. North Carolina State Board of Cosmetic Arts Rules and Regulations: Remaining in compliance with State Board Rules and Regulations is the most important aspect of performing safe and sanitary services. This will contribute to repeat clients who respect your services. This section will provide an outline of the North Carolina State Board of Cosmetic Arts: Laws, Regulations, Civil Penalties, and Sanitation Rules.

8 Page 8 of HOUR HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT Introduction Hair coloring is one of the most rewarding services offered at a salon. Many stylist shy away from color because of the chemistry, possible problems, and mistakes that could happen. This course will highlight basics of the coloring process, and discuss the products and techniques to help you elevate your confidence level as you increase your knowledge. For those with more advanced hair-coloring experience, this course will refresh your training and introduce some new concepts. Why Many Stylists Often Fear Haircoloring The biggest reason anyone is ever afraid is lack of knowledge. Timid about attempting haircoloring, stylists often discourage people from trying a tint or color effect. Yes, this strange phenomenon occurs more times than you would think! Stylists have actually talked customers out of trying color, resulting in the loss of larger service revenues, retail sales, and eventually the loss of the client, who is dis-appointed by not receiving the service requested. Other reasons stylists are afraid to try color or suggest it to clients are: a previous experience that was a disaster, lack of confidence arising from lack of experience, and fear of client rejection with the finished look. Either they don't know what to do with colors or they are afraid to try! Fear keeps the potentially successful stylist from becoming a true technician (and rich).

9 Page 9 of 154 Although most students understand that practice makes perfect, it is perhaps more difficult to understand that in cosmetology, perfect might be a rut. You might learn something to perfection and never go past that point. Hopefully this course will broaden your understanding, first and foremost. Beyond that, it will challenge you to experiment, to think past the immediate moment, and to go forward with confidence, even if you tried something and it failed. One of the best ways to become successful is to know failure. History Did you know that hair dye has been around for thousands of years? Early records show that the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians, Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention using hair colourings in one form or another. Humans were likely dyeing their hair well before the ancient Egyptians discovered that the leaves of the henna shrub could restore a youthful black or red to their locks, even for those being mummified. In his 1986 book, The Science of Hair Care, former L Oreal Chairman and CEO Charles Zviak writes that bottle blondes officially debuted in the 1860s, when Napoleon III s mistress, Cora Pearl, bleached her hair with hydrogen peroxide. In 1867, a London chemist and Parisian hairdresser popularized the method with a peroxide lotion with a French name that means Golden water from the fountain of youth. Up until the 19th century, the only dyes available were those that had been prepared from a natural source, and by combining various plant extracts, it was possible to create a fairly extensive range of colors. Indigo, although commonly used as a fabric dye, could be mixed with henna to give varying shades of brown for example. Other substances that have been used for dyeing hair or wigs are rock alum, black sulfur, and honey. Lead, quicklime, and salt, or silver nitrate in rose water. Another early method of coloring hair was to apply powders made up of wheat starch, powder of parish or potato starch combined with chalk, burnt alabaster, and the colorants, burnt sienna or umber. The late nineteenth century saw the introduction of Hydrogen peroxide at the Paris Exposition as an efficient hair lightener and thus begun the experimentation of chemical compounds to

10 Page 10 of 154 produce a synthetic dye. The first chemical compound developed was pyrogallol, and from 1845, pyrogallol (in combination with henna) was used to dye hair brown. The 1880s saw the introduction of amino dyes of which p-phenylenediamine was the earliest. Before being applied to the hair it had to be mixed with caustic soda, sodium carbonate, or ammonia. Hydrogen peroxide was then applied, which then brought out the color. Clairol were the makers to pioneer the first one-step hair dye in This made the process of dyeing hair so much easier and with a sophisticated chemical compound it meant that the timeconsuming shampoo and pre-lightening steps could be eliminated from the process. Within a short space of time, women in the U.S. quickly realized that hair dye had developed into an easy to use product and by 1973 over 50% of women were taking advantage of this wonder product. But what do our modern hair dyes contain now? There is not a doubt that it is a complex mix of ingredients, with each manufacturer differing in formula to retain an element of uniqueness. Hair dyes generally contain dyes, modifiers, antioxidants, alkalizers, soaps, ammonia, wetting agents, and a plethora of different fragrance, and a mixture of other compounds used to impart different qualities to hair depending on hair type, color and texture. The chemicals are normally amino compounds, and you can recognize them by names such as 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene and m-aminophenol. Metal oxides, can also be added as pigment. Resorcinol is a commonly used modifier, used to bring out the tone of color or set the dye. The dye is prevented from oxidizing with air by using an antioxidant such as sodium sulfite. Dyes work most efficiently in an alkaline composition so alkalizers (such as ammonium hydroxide) are added to the dye to change its PH formula. Added to these basic chemicals, will be a variety of chemicals to give a certain dye solution certain qualities will be suitable for different hair types and provide different application experiences. Hydrogen peroxide is usually added to the product in a separate container and used as a developer. There are various types of hair dyes on the market. These are temporary hair colors and Semi permanent dyes, which penetrate into the hair shaft, but wash out of the hair after five to ten shampoos. A dye such as Grecian Formula 16 works by penetrating the cuticle and the Pb2+ ions react with sulfur atoms in the proteins to form lead sulfide (PbS), this give the effect of looking dark in color. This is a gradual dye that works by being applied on a regular basis to "build" up the color of the hair. So the next time you reach for that bottle of dye or sit patiently in the hairdressing salon, as the smells of the chemicals waft around your nose you can reflect on the long journey that those

11 Page 11 of 154 hair dyes have actually been on, beginning with the base, natural and primitive ingredients of our ancient world through to the first tentative experimentation with permanent color to the sophisticated and easy to apply dyes of the modern world. BASIC CHEMISTRY The Hair Color Wheel There are some very specific rules that come into play with hair coloring. This page outlines the basic chemistry involved and highlights some of the most critical rules to keep in mind. Knowing where you're starting, where you're going and what to expect along the way is the best way to ensure good results from your color. Here's the formula... nice 'n simple... Hair Coloring Formula Virgin Hair (no artificial color present) Underlying Pigment + Artificial Pigments Final Result Previously Colored Hair Underlying Pigment of Regrowth + Existing Artificial Pigments + Artificial Pigments in New Color Final Result Step One - Identify Natural Haircolor Level An international system is used to identify the level of darkness of your hair, 1 being the darkest (black) and 10 being the lightest (blonde). Match your hair (just the regrowth if it's previously

12 Page 12 of 154 colored) to the hair color swatch below that most closely resembles the darkness of your haircolor...not necessarily the tone, which could be warm (red), cool (ash), or neutral, but the degree of lightness or darkness. Step Two - Identify Your Underlying Pigment A hair coloring process that involves any amount of hydrogen peroxide (which can include some semi-permanent formulas) will bring out the natural underlying pigment of your hair. The "natural looking" tone that's visible as your hair color is not the true tone when it comes to the chemistry of hair coloring. Think of it as a surface layer that's stripped away, and laying in wait underneath are the bold and brassy tones of your underlying pigment. The chart above clearly illustrates which color of underlying pigment corresponds with the natural level you identified in step one. So now you know what you're dealing with.

13 Page 13 of 154 Step Three - Understand the Color Wheel The color wheel is a universal chart which shows how all colors are created from just three basic (primary) colors. Here's how it goes... Primary Colors (inner circle) - Red, Yellow, and Blue Secondary Colors (middle ring) - Orange, Green, and Purple Secondary colors are made by mixing 2 primary colors together: Red + Yellow = Orange Red + Blue = Purple Blue + Yellow = Green Tertiary Colors (outer ring) Created by mixing primary and secondary colors together: Yellow + Orange = Orange/Yellow Yellow + Green = Yellow/Green (lime green) Blue + Green = Blue/Green

14 Page 14 of 154 Blue + Purple = Blue/Violet Red + Purple = Red/Violet Red + Orange = Red/Orange Why is the hair color wheel so important? 1) All hair color is comprised of different ratios of the primary colors (red, yellow, blue). 2) It clearly illustrates which colors neutralize which...find the primary color you want to tone away and look directly across the chart to the opposite secondary color. **Mixing all three primary colors equally creates BROWN** So creating a neutral tone is achieved by mudding out the underlying pigment using an opposing color. Because underlying pigments are all reds, oranges, and yellows, you must consider that you are not beginning with a blank canvas...you're adding color to color, so the results will be a combination of all elements. The Law of Color You can enhance anyone's appearance with color! Understanding color theory is as easy as knowing the simple Law of Color and relating it to addition and sub-traction. Believe it or not, hairdressers did not invent any of the simple color laws, which trace back to Isaac Newton. Around the same time the apple fell on his head, he discovered that when white light passes through a prism, that light reflects six colors, which make up the colors of the rainbow and are the basis for the color wheel. These six colors are: Primary colors: yellow, red, and blue Secondary colors: orange, violet, and green Primary colors are colors in their purest form. They are the three strongest and most influential pigments! Any color on earth can be broken down to yellow, red, or blue. Yellow is the lightest primary and is warm in value. It is the color hair colorists use most, for it creates the most highlighted effect. Red is the medium-bright primary that reflects more light than the other colors; therefore, it catches the eye first. It is also the strongest

15 Page 15 of 154 of the warm primary colors. Blue is the darkest, strongest primary. Any time more blue than red or yellow is used in a formula, the color will not only be darker, but less bright. It is the only primary with a cool pigment. Secondary colors are created when two primaries are mixed together. There are three secondary colors. Orange is the strongest warm secondary color and is made by mixing yellow and red. Violet is made when red and blue are mixed. It is a cool secondary because it is based on the cool, strongest primary. Green, the secondary color with the most coo/ tones, is made by mixing yellow and blue. When each of the three primaries is placed at the point of a triangle, the three secondaries will fit on points of another triangle. This configuration forms the outline of a circle or wheel, hence the term color wheel.

16 Page 16 of 154 The wheel divides into halves-a cool side and a warm side. Green, blue, and violet are cool: red, orange, and yellow are warm. Note that each primary color on the wheel is opposite a secondary color. These opposites are the true key to success in hair coloration.

17 Page 17 of 154 If colors are opposite each other on the color wheel, they are called complementary colors. So at does that mean? Complementary means that they complement one another. For example, when yellow is placed next to violet, both colors look their most vibrant and attractive. The same is true with orange and blue or green and red. When two complementary colors are mixed, however, they neutralize or cancel each other, making brown (center of the wheel).

18 Page 18 of 154 All other colors or combinations of colors are called quaternary colors. Although these colors are the most varied and widespread, they are not essential in understanding the color wheel because manufacturers describe their products' color bases in terms of primaries, secondaries, or tertiaries. This theory is known as the Law of Color, and it is universally accepted. It is the key to predictable, successful color service. The Law of Color never changes! SHADE SYSTEM The original hair coloring system used as a permanent, penetrating tint is called the Shade System. It was and still is very effective. The Shade System measures color by its tonal value, such as reds, naturals, golds, browns, and so forth. While many technicians still work with the Shade System, most manufacturers today pro-mote the Level System as easier, and as producing better results. LEVEL SYSTEM

19 Page 19 of 154 The Level System can totally eliminate the fear of haircoloring and remove all the guesswork from tinting hair. A simple, three-part formula is all you use to determine and achieve great end results. The following information is devoted mainly to the exploration and explanation of the Level System of haircoloring. It includes advanced information usually only provided to the educators who are teaching other professionals. Hopefully this information is presented simply, so it becomes basic color knowledge. A good philosophy to follow is: the more you know, the less you fear. The term hair coloring, as used in this course refers to both the science and art of changing the hair color by using a variety of products and techniques. Definition of the Level System For those who are not clear on what the Level System is, the definition is simple--it is the numerical system of judging color in stages, or numbers, one level being a measure of light or dark in the hair. The system assigns a number for measuring dark to light without regard to tonal value. Level measures are usually represented by the numbers I through 10, each indicating one equal measure (level). However, because there is no universal measurement of a level, one company's level chart may vary from another's. Most of them are similar because there is a limit to the differences between light and dark. Think of the Level System as being a ladder. The first or bottom step is # I (usually signifying black), with # I 0 the highest step on the ladder (usually representing very pale blonde). The lower the number, the darker the color; the higher the number, the lighter the color. If you are presently more familiar with the Shade System, three to four shades equal approximately one level in the Level System. The Level System colors always use numbers to indicate levels (the measure of light and dark) and letters to refer to tonal value, the major contributor of pigment in a particular series. Example: I ON means level 10 natural, 9G means level 9 gold, 10S means level 10 silver Some use more than

20 Page 20 of 154 one letter, indicating contributions of more than one dominant tone. Example: GB (gold, beige). If you're a blonde (level 7), trying to go lighter, without the brassy tones...your underlying pigment is yellow. You must use a purple based (ash) color to neutralize the underlying pigment. Any darker than level 7 and the orange underlying pigment comes into play, for which you need blue based color, except blondes don't contain enough blue to tone out orange, so you'll need to pre-lighten to bring up the underlying pigment to a yellow (preferably pale yellow) tone, then apply a purple based (ash) hair toner (semipermanent color). Alternatively, if you're a dark brown (level 3) and you want to lighten up to a slightly golden brown (level 6). You'd need to consider that you're dealing with a very strong red-orange underlying pigment, so adding gold (orange based) color will amplify the orange and bring out the brass. Go for a neutral shade, or even slightly cool to mud out some, but not all of the orange. So you see, each hair coloring process has its own set of variables. If your hair is previously colored, the formula becomes slightly more complicated as you must take into account the artificial pigment already on the hair. In this case it's imperative you know that color does not remove artificial pigment, so if you want to lighten already colored hair...you're going to need bleach...and it will lighten slower than the natural regrowth. Tricky...ummm, yeah. Another option would be to use a hair color removal product, which only removes the artificial pigment. Also tricky, and more expensive, but in the long run, it can save you both dollars and further damage to your hair. Categories of Color The Level System consists of four basic categories of color. These categories are: The B category, dark brown and black: People born with black or dark brown hair Levels 1, 2, and sometimes 3 are in the black dark brown category. They may have some reddish highlights. Their hair darkens with age until it turns gray. The W category, warm brown: People born with blonde hair that gradually darkens through adolescence. Even before the hair begins to gray the natural hair color loses its

21 Page 21 of 154 warmth and starts to flatten. The hair colorist must keep in mind that the original undertones are still present although the hair has turned gray. These clients can generally wear red tones very well and often request them. They also wear highlights very well. The warm category can include levels from 5 to 10. The L category, light brown: People born with blonde hair that remains blonde through adolescence. Their hair gradually darkens in their teens to a soft brown color. The soft brown category is usually level 5 or 6. The category red: People born with red hair that remains red through-out adolescence. Their hair gradually darkens or loses warmth with age. The red category usually falls into the levels 5, 6, and 7. Blonde has not been noted as a category. People with blonde hair levels 8, 9, and I0; do not usually color their hair until it darkens, although they often add even lighter or brighter highlights for fashion effects. At this point, they are often in the L category. The Level System is the simplest and most easily performed system of color formulation, providing clear-cut steps to follow with no guesswork. In addition, many level systems contain lower ammonia levels than their shade system counter-parts, creating predictable, beautiful results. PREPARE YOUR CLIENT S HAIR For best results (and to avoid common color mishaps), make sure your client s hair is ready for the color. People no longer regard hair as merely a protective fiber. In today's society, hair expresses image, a client's fashion and life-style preferences. Whether your client requires monthly retouches or simply naturalized effects that last for months, color is a repeat business when properly done. To look its best, color must be maintained! With proper consultation, you can customize your color service, catering to every whim and need your clients have. The public continues to spend more time and money to look good. Haircoloring is the most profitable service offered in salons today. Why? A retouch client averages 10 to 12 visits per year! If you hit on the right formula for the client, it equals loyalty! Clients are very loyal when it comes to color.

22 Page 22 of 154 SECTION 2: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT HAIR TONER Toning Hair Tips and Techniques Surely you've heard the expression 'bleach and tone'? Toning hair is done to neutralize brassy (yellow or yellow/orange) pigments. After bleaching hair is the most common time for using hair toner. Because bleach leaves the hair in a raw-pigment state which is less-than-attractive, you need to add back pigments to create a 'natural' look. So... whip up a toner! What to Use The most effective product to use for toning hair is a semi-permanent hair color. They contain a nearly non-existent volume of peroxide (between 5 and 8 percent), so they're considered deposit only hair color products. TONING TO NEUTRALIZE If you've been lightening your hair with permanent hair color, you've probably noticed that it's become more difficult with time to get the brassy-yellow tones out. That's because as we mature, our hair naturally darkens and the underlying pigment deepens to a point where the neutralizing pigments in hair color can't combat the yellow/orange tones as effectively. You may need to kick it up a notch and pre-lighten by bleaching your hair. If you're mixing hair toner for most blonding processes, look for a light or lightest ash blonde tone. However, because overly porous hair tends to absorb mostly the ash tones from hair color, if you're coloring this type of hair, add in some neutral... even a bit of light golden blonde. If you still get a muddy looking color, forgo the ash entirely. TONING TO BRIGHTEN A color gloss can liven up a dull blonde or brunette shade. It won't darken your hair, it'll just deposit a more favorable hue if your shade is dull or slightly off-tone. And it'll amp up the shine, making your hair look healthier.

23 Page 23 of 154 TONING TO DEEPEN Sometimes highlights are just too light, especially in contrast to a very dark natural color. In that case, using a hair color to deepen the tone works nicely to restore some balance between the hues. The Bottom Line Not all hair toner processes are reserved for going blonde. Anytime you pre-lighten the hair and add another color to tone out the underlying pigments, the process can be considered "toning". It's essentially just a way to say you're using hair color to change an unwanted tone. Application Start applying the toner in the area that needs it the most. Avoid getting any of the formula on pieces that don't need toning (coating those sections with a bit of conditioner will help keep them from getting processed if you accidentally get color on them). Let the toner process for the full time recommended by the manufacturer (usually minutes). However, in cases where only slight toning is required, you can rinse it sooner. Hair Color Removal Techniques for Removing Artificial Pigment Hair color removal is sometimes necessary. Whether there's been a mistake or you're trying to achieve a much lighter shade than what you've currently got. This is a challenging process which requires the right products, good information and realistic expectations. Methods of Hair Color Removal COLOR REMOVAL FORMULA The color removal formula is also known as a decolorizing or stripping shampoo. Although different types of stripping shampoos work basically the same, a good one for:

24 Page 24 of 154 Removing color from hair to be tinted lighter Removing excess deposit from hair immediately after tint Helping pre-soften Achieving a maximum of one to one and a half levels of lift is: 2-oz H oz. bleach (I --2 scoops) I oz. shampoo I oz. conditioner This formula is applied at the shampoo bowl, and it must be applied very quickly and evenly. A recommended use is a tint brush and bowl, applying in broad sweeps of the brush. Because the formula works very quickly, care must be taken and the formula must be monitored from the entire time it is on the head. The formula can be strengthened or weakened by decreasing the amounts of shampoo and conditioner used, or by diluting with more of the same. When this product is applied, the conditioner and shampoo act as buffers for the bleach formula, making it far easier on the hair and scalp. Oxidative Hair Color Removers These specialty products remove artificial pigments without bleach. They work by shrinking the color molecule so that it washes out of the hair. They are formulated to remove oxidative dyes, which are present in permanent hair color. Semi permanent hair color is a mixture of oxidative and direct dyes, so these products won't be as effective for semi-permanent hair color removal. Because these products target oxidative dyes, they won't remove the natural pigment from your hair if you have regrowth. Shampoo Cap You can lift the artificial pigment out a bit with a "shampoo cap", a gentler form of hair bleaching. Mix bleach, peroxide, and shampoo together into a loose paste. Squeeze into the ends of the hair where the color is the darkest and work through, carefully avoiding the natural colored hair.

25 Page 25 of 154 Bleach doesn't distinguish between natural and artificial pigment, and it lightens natural pigment more quickly than hair color which can make it difficult to get an even tone throughout. This is not a process to undergo if you value the health of your hair. Although it's not as damaging as all-over blonding with bleach, and the lightening agents aren't on the hair nearly as long, your hair will need protein/moisture treatments after this process and may absorb color pigments more voraciously with a tendency towards grabbing the ash tones. Keep this in mind if you decide to try this process. For success when removing artificial pigments, whichever method you choose, it's critical to have a basic understanding of hair coloring chemistry. Successful Hair Color Removal Three important facts about existing artificial color on the hair 1) Permanent hair color does not lift out existing artificial hair color. 2) Hair bleaching will lighten artificial pigments (especially very dark colors) more slowly than natural pigments in regrowth. 3) Some inexpensive (drugstore brand) hair colors contain metallic salts which can turn your hair to mush if they're processed with bleach, perm solutions, or chemical straighteners. Check the ingredients if you've used a drugstore brand hair color to make sure it doesn't contain any metallic dye components. Darker colors contain more of this ingredient (in those particular brands), and the more you've used it, the more metallic salts will have been deposited on/in your hair. Punk Hair Color Tips for Creating Bright, Wild Colors Punk hair color is fun to experiment with and makes a bold statement to the world about who you are.

26 Page 26 of 154 This section details the process for bleaching hair and applying your hair color successfully. The more prepared you are, the better your results will be. Whether it's pink hair, blue hair, green, or purple that you desire, it requires the same simple process. First pre-lighten, and then apply a quality punk hair color in the shade of your choice. Prepping Hair for Bright, Punk Hair Color Hair needs to be pre-lightened in order to get a bright, impactful color. And it needs to be lightened past the pale yellow stage so the yellow-ish pigments don't mess with the true tone you're trying to achieve. Only the sections you want colored should be bleached and can be kept separate with tin foil if necessary. Be mindful of the fact that if you haven't lightened your hair past the pale yellow stage, these colors are essentially mixing with the existing pigments in the hair. Think of mixing paint colors. If you start with yellow and add blue, you'll get a greenish color. If you start with yellow and add red, you'll get orange. So if you want a vibrant, true-to-tone punk hair color, you must prelighten the hair to create a "blank slate" that won't interfere with the results you're trying to achieve. Considerations Punk hair color is bright and its job is to stain; which is great, except when it's staining your bathtub or shower surround. Rinse carefully so you don't create a bunch of colored splash marks in your bathroom. Don't rinse in worn acrylic or fiberglass tubs and

27 Page 27 of 154 showers as they're more likely to stain. Avoid using any hair colors near marble, porous tile or grout as these stains may never come out. To maintain your punk hair color for longer, avoid rinsing in very hot water and use shampoo's and conditioners formulated for colored hair. Don't use clarifying shampoos until just before you're ready to color again. Hair Color Picture Gallery Blonde Hair Style Photos and Advice Tips for Choosing, Achieving and Maintaining Your Color A blonde hair style can range from light platinum to dark golden blonde. This page provides photos and descriptions of different blonde shades. Give your clients the best blonde for their buck! Blonde Hair Color with Professional Results Blonde is probably the most frequently messed up hair color. We've all seen enough amateur blonde hair styles with brassy roots and frazzled, white, over-colored ends. Getting a natural looking blonde hair style is tricky. Most people's hair has a lot of yellow-orange underlying pigment. To achieve a very light blonde, the hair MUST be lightened to the pale yellow stage. That often requires hair bleaching, then applying hair toner to deposit the desired tone (i.e., ash, beige, or golden). Keeping a consistent tone from the roots to the ends of your blonde hair style is also tricky. That's why so many people are walking around with "hot roots" (bright, brassy blonde near the scalp). Take the time to learn about hair color chemistry. The more you understand, the better your hair color results will be. Choosing a Shade For very fair skin, a touch of gold in your blonde shade can help to warm up your skin tone. Ash tones are great for those who have a reddish complexion as the cool hues will help neutralize the redness. Caramel blondes work well for natural brunettes, especially around the face where the

28 Page 28 of 154 lighter caramel shades will draw attention to the eyes. Olive skin tones benefit from a more neutral shade of blonde, nothing too warm (golden). Maintaining Blonde Hair Color Keep the brassy tones out of your blonde hair style by using a color depositing shampoo and conditioner. The conditioners work the best because they don't contain cleansing agents and can be left on the hair for long periods. The longer they're left on and more often they're used, the more pigment is deposited onto your hair strand.

29 Page 29 of 154 Blonde Hair Style Photos Platinum blonde hair style (Level this could actually be considered level 11 or 12, but the traditional color level system only goes to 10, so we'll stick with that.) This shade can only be achieved by bleaching and toning the hair. It's best for shorter hair styles because of the damage bleaching hair to this degree causes. The ends of long hair have been around, exposed to the elements for at least a year or two. They'd look awful after being so severely bleached.

30 Page 30 of 154 Ash blonde hair style (level 10 with level 6-8 lowlights) A combination of light blonde highlights and ash toned lowlights create a nice multitonal blonde. This is the best way to use ash tones. An all-over ash color can look greyish, but breaking it up by only using the ash for lowlights looks great! Yellowish-blonde hair style (level 9) A light blonde with a slightly yellowish tone. You'll notice the yellow if you enlarge the image and compare it to the ash or platinum above. This is about as much yellow as a blonde should have before it starts looking brassy. If you look closely,

31 Page 31 of 154 you'll see that the yellow tones are broken up with platinum blonde highlights. Neutral slightly golden blonde (level 8) An all over medium dark, slightly golden toned blonde. This shade works very well with a warm skin tone. Gold tones are always better when they lean toward the neutral end of the spectrum. Too much gold can look brassy and artificial. When choosing a hair color (if you re doing it yourself) ALWAYS takes into account your underlying pigment. If you choose a golden blonde off the shelf and apply it to your hair with an orangeyellow underlying pigment, you'll end up with a VERY bright, brassy gold color.

32 Page 32 of 154 Golden blonde with light blonde highlights (level 7) The highlights are nicely placed and the tone blends well with the golden shade of the darker color. Just a few foils in the top layer of your hair can add great impact and work well to break up a solid color. Sandy blonde hair style (level 7) This dark blonde compliments cooler skin tones. It's very neutral, but without the gold in the photos above. If you opt for a color like this, make sure the cut has some texture and personality. Otherwise your hair could look a bit drab. A few skinny foils 1 or 2 shades lighter would be a nice addition to break up this

33 Page 33 of 154 color and add some dimension. Multi-tonal blonde (level 7) This color has a bit of everything. Foil highlights were added in every one of the above mentioned tones. It's a bit too much. If this were my client, I'd recommend we add a level 8 color gloss over top which would not affect the darker tones. It'd add a bit more darkness to the lightest pieces and create more harmony. She'd still have a multi-tonal blonde, but it wouldn't be so reminiscent of a calico cat. Stick with a maximum of three colors when foiling for a multi-tonal effect. If you're coloring your hair blonde, consider having your eyebrows tinted. TIPS FOR BLONDS 1. When lightening brown to blonde, remember there may be underlying unwanted warm tones. 2. When covering gray hair with a blonde color use a level 7 or darker.

34 Page 34 of Double-processing is best way to get light pale blonde. 4. If using high-lift blondes that lift only 5 levels, the results can be too warm or brassy. 5. If highlights become too blonde, lowlights can be foiled into hair for a more natural color.

35 Page 35 of 154 Brunette Hair Style Photos and Advice Tips For Choosing, Achieving and Maintaining Your Color Shades of brunette range from a light ash tone to a deep chestnut and everything in between. Browns are classic, rich, mysterious, and the easiest of all haircolor to maintain. Browns sometimes need to be deepened to add impact, which can easily be done with a semi or demi permanent color. Many times, all that's needed to boost a brunette shade is a bit of shine. Apply a color gloss, in either a tinted shade or clear. Should you feel the need to lighten things up a bit, opt for a few foiled highlights, rather than an all-over blonde hair color. That way, you'll get a more natural look, without the heavy maintenance that's inevitable when lightening brown hair to blonde. Take the time to learn about hair color chemistry. The more you understand, the better your hair color results will be. Maintaining Brown Hair Color Keep the rich brown tones present in your hair color by using a color depositing shampoo and conditioner. The conditioners work the best because they don't contain cleansing agents and can be left on the hair for long periods. The longer they're left on and more often they're used, the more pigment is deposited onto your hair strand. Brunette Hair Style Photos

36 Page 36 of 154 Ash Brown (Level 6 with level 7 & 8 natural highlights) This shade of ash brown is difficult to achieve with artificial hair color. There is just enough highlighting from the sun to bump this color out of the "mousy" category. Adding a few medium ash or beige blonde foil highlights throughout the top of the hair would give a similar effect. Light Auburn Brunette (level 6-7) This shade is just on the verge of belonging in the Red Hair Color section. It's a very warm shade of brunette, which brightens a medium to fair, warm skin tone. Avoid this shade if you have a cool (pinkish) skin tone.

37 Page 37 of 154 Medium Brunette With Flair! (levels 6 & 9) Jazz up a solid brown hair color with panels of gold. Slice out a few strips of hair near the front. Get creative with the positioning. Consider how the hair will lay. Not just the highlighted piece, but the hair around it too. Use foil highlights to color just the section you want lightened. The effect is made more dramatic the lighter (or brighter) you go. This technique can be done using any (complimentary) combination of colors. Medium "True" Brunette (level 5) Thoughts of "brunette hair color" often bring to mind a picture of precisely this shade. It is a beautiful, rich shade -- not too light, not too dark. This is another one that's difficult to capture with artificial permanent

38 Page 38 of 154 haircolor. If this is the shade you're trying to achieve, opt for a semi-permanent, which doesn't lift the underlying pigment. The underlying pigment always brings gold and warmth into the picture because of the way it's formulated. To avoid the gold, go with a "deposit only" hair color. Dark Brunette Hair Color (level 3-4) This deep rich, shade of brunette has a warm hue, great for a dramatic effect on warm skin tones. A sprinkle of very thin highlights, just a shade or two lighter, adds some dimension to the color.

39 Page 39 of 154 Deepest Brunette (level 2) This shade is slightly darker than the one above, and has cool undertones, rather than warm. Can you see the difference? If you can, great! You're developing the eye of a colorist! The cool hue makes this color suitable for (you guessed it), cool skin tones. A clear color gloss, applied every few months, will maintain the shine that is so important with such a deeply saturated color. If you're coloring your hair to a brown shade that is darker than your natural color, consider having your eyebrows tinted. TIPS FOR BRUNETTES 1. Avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, by using a cool blue base. 2. Avoid brassy tones by not lightening more than two levels above the natural color. 3. Add 1 oz. of a natural color to cover gray in brunette. 4. Natural highlights in brunette should be deep or caramel colored.

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41 Page 41 of 154 Understanding Red Hair Color Getting The Right Red and Keeping it Fresh Shades of red hair color vary from light strawberry to fiery copper to rich auburn. Once your hair is colored, keeping the red in your hair becomes the challenge. Red hair color contains the smallest of hair color molecules. Small molecules enter the hair shaft easily, so your hair soaks up the color. They also escape from the hair shaft easily, which means you wash many of them down the drain each time you shampoo. To prevent those sneaky red hair color molecules from leaching out, use a pigmented shampoo and conditioner. These products deposit color molecules back onto your hair every time you use them. Red Hair Color Pictures Light strawberry blonde (level 9) This color has bleached blonde foil highlights, which lighten the overall color. Best neutral, fair skin tones. If your hair is already quite light, this is a good option. Really dark hair will require A LOT of maintenance to deal with the regrowth.

42 Page 42 of 154 Bright copper red (level 8) This is a great, rich copper/strawberry. It's a very bright color, so beware! Many women feel sure they want a bright shade like this... until they're looking at it on their own hair. Dark copper red (level 7) Same advice as above with this color. It's very bright. Not for the faint of heart. Reds like this are difficult to tone down once the molecules are in your hair. It can be done, but it'll end up being a darker color than you probably wanted.

43 Page 43 of 154 Neutral copper red (level 7) This shade is more reminiscent of a "natural redhead." Could be described as a ginger spice color. It's very rich and not overly bright... a good choice if you want a more subdued red hair color. Light auburn red (level 6) The tone of this auburn hair color is deeper than the coppers above. Very rich without being too dark. A great color for fair skinned women who find the coppers too bright.

44 Page 44 of 154 Auburn red (level 5) Also a rich auburn, just slightly darker than the one above. These reds have enough brown pigment to keep them from being overly bright. Dark auburn red (level 4) A very rich, deep auburn red hair color. This is a beautiful shade. It's just one level darker than the photo above. The differences in color levels are subtle. If you spend a lot of time in the sun, it's wise to opt for a shade darker than you want to compensate for the inevitable fading. If you're coloring your hair red, consider having your eyebrows tinted. Many women have ash toned eyebrows, which contrast with the warm, spicy red tones.

45 Page 45 of 154 TIPS FOR REDS 1. Create warm coppery reds by using a red-orange base color. 2. Create hot fiery reds by using a red-violet or true red color. 3. After permanent color, use a no-lift deposit-only color to refresh. 4. If gray is present, add ½ to 1 oz. of a natural color. 5. Refresh reds with a soap cap to brighten haircolor. A soap cap is equal parts of shampoo and the remaining color formula. SECTION 3: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT New Hair Color Trends Add Character to Your Latest Hair Style A new hair color can have a dramatic effect on an otherwise plain hair style. If you're not after drama, use hair color to compliment your skin tone and highlight your features. Highlighted Effects

46 Page 46 of 154 The once popular chunky highlights which gave a stripy effect from the part have been updated to a more modest blend of 3 or 4 tones of hair color ranging from light to dark and applied in various sizes. Foiling is the best method to achieve this look. Highlighting and lowlighting using foils allows for total creative freedom and gives the best results as each section is kept separate from the others. This also means that all of the different colors can be applied and process at the same time. Rich dark colors are ultra-hot, sprinkled with a few equally rich highlights peeking out from underneath. Deep tones of eggplant, burgundy, or bright red are a great compliment to a dark brown or black hair color. Dramatic Hair Color Effects

47 Page 47 of 154 Strategically placed highlights, lowlights, or panels can accentuate texture and add tons of impact to your hair style. This bold effect is very edgy and can be done in many color combinations. Platinum blonde and dark brown are shown here, but this look is equally dramatic with black/red or light copper/dark auburn, even purple/blue! Go with tones that compliment your natural coloring and express your personal style. Solid or Subtle Color Effects Solid, one-tone hair color is very popular again or two tones that offer just a subtle hint of color progression (as in the case of the blonde pictured above). Deep red or brown hair colors add richness and make hair look healthy and shiny. Dimensional blonde hair colors create interest and break up a solid ultra-blonde color which adds a professional, high class touch. Color Back From Light to Dark Hair

48 Page 48 of 154 A color back is the process of taking an artificial blonde back to a darker shade. There are a few essential steps for getting an even, natural looking color that will last. This section will take you through the process so you can avoid any mishaps. A blue/grey/green cast is a common outcome with a color back process. The blonde hair is over-porous and will absorb the blue pigments in the color formula more so than the red and yellow. So adding some of those warm pigments back to the hair is important. Solutions For a Successful Color Back The two things you need to do a color back process the professional way... 1) POROSITY EQUALIZER Use a porosity equalizer before coloring. These products penetrate into the hair strand, filling up the most porous areas with conditioning agents. The result is a more uniform color because the hair strand absorbs the pigments more evenly. 2) FILLER Fill the lightened hair with a warm pigment (i.e., orange/yellow), before coloring. When the hair was lightened, it was stripped of its natural underlying pigment. Those pigments are necessary to balance out the color in a darker shade. So we replace them with artificial pigments before doing the actual color process. This will help neutralize the blue pigments absorbed by the color when it is applied, and even everything out. WHAT TO USE

49 Page 49 of 154 Non-permanent (no ammonia) colors or stains are best to use as fillers. So look for an orange toned semi-permanent or demi-permanent color. A permanent color (even a copper orange) contains strong blue pigments which the porous areas of your hair will be most likely to absorb. That's what will give you muddy results. Filler for medium to dark brown finished color Either of these options would work. For extremely processed hair or if you are going from blonde to very dark, go for the Auburn. If your hair is in fairly good condition and/or if the finished color you're trying to achieve is medium-dark, use the Golden shade... Allow the color filler to process for up to 20 minutes. Leave it on for less time (say, 10 minutes) if the finished color result you want to achieve is more neutral or ash. Leave it on for closer to 20 minutes if the finished result you want to achieve is warm (i.e., golden, auburn, red). A warm, light strawberry shade has just the right pigments to provide a light fill. When the finished color you're after is a lighter shade of brown or dark blonde, you need to be careful about using too dark of filler. This color can be allowed to process for the full recommended time. The warm pigments are subtle, but necessary before you add a neutral shade. The color you end up with after having it filled is NOT attractive. In fact, it can be downright garish! Especially if you're using a filler for dark hair. Don't worry, it's supposed to be vibrant. Remember, we're trying to mimic the color of your underlying pigment. Rinse the filler well and apply the finishing color immediately. FINISHING COLOR Either permanent or semi-permanent will work for the finished color. Permanent is better if you've gone a bit overboard with the filler and need a formula with a bit more oomph to neutralize out more of the orange. Otherwise, go with semi(or demi)-permanent. Semi-permanent is deposit only, which is exactly what you need to get your hair darker. There's no need for the ammonia and peroxide contained in permanent colors when all you want to do is deposit a darker color.

50 Page 50 of 154 So semi-permanent is always my personal choice for that purpose. Semipermanent pigment is also more likely to fade, and you may find that to be a good thing. Especially on extremely porous hair which can end up going darker than expected. If it fades, simply re-apply as needed. Highlighting Hair Techniques for Coloring Hair With Foils This section will detail the technical aspects of highlighting hair using foils (or another material). Begin with clean dry hair, parted and styled the way you wear it most often. Make sure you're set-up with everything you'll need beforehand. Now, observe your hair...how it moves, where it falls, and which areas you'd like to highlight. Formulate a plan before you start. Once you've decided which methods you'll employ, here are the technical details. Highlighting Hair with Foils Clip away the hair in a way that'll reveal the piece you've chosen to foil. With your tail comb, weave or slice out a section and hold in one hand. Keep your comb in the other hand and grab a piece of foil. Bring the foil to the other hand and lightly hold it (and your section of hair). Slide the tail of the comb up under the foil, near the top, and fold about an inch (2.5cm) of it over the tail of the comb. Now that your foil is secured over the comb, slide the tail of the comb right up under the section of hair. Make sure it's taut, then lay a hand over the whole thing to hold the hair in place while you load up your brush with the other hand. Keep a good grasp on the section until you've applied the color to either just the re-growth of the entire strand (depending). If you're coloring the re-growth only... Just dab the color onto the hair you're coloring, then fold the foil up in thirds. If the hair not being foiled is going to be

51 Page 51 of 154 colored, make sure the ends of your highlighted pieces are protected inside the foil. But not touching the color or you'll get a nasty band across the hair. If you're coloring the entire strand... Be sure to work the color in adequately. I generally flip the hair over a bit on the foil and apply color to the underside as well. Fold up the foil in thirds, but be sure not to make a strong crease, which will squish the hair inside. That'll create a slight, but still unsightly, banding effect. In every case... To prevent leakage at the root, flip the foil up and, with the tail of your comb, unfold the one inch flap you created when you started the foil. Press it down to the scalp with the tail of your comb, and call that foil...done! Just a few foils in the top, or underneath can give a nice highlighted effect. In some cases, 1, 2, or 3 panels are all you'll use foil for. I usually stick with about on my fine hair, and they go a long way. Foiling Hair Hair Coloring Techniques Foiling hair is a hair coloring technique used to separate sections, preventing different color formulas from mixing together. Using foils is an incredibly versatile method, allowing for unlimited creativity! Because the sections of hair are kept separate, several colors can be applied in one process. And the freedom to choose the size of each highlighted strand makes it possible to create a very high-end looking, multi-tonal hair color. The right tools and equipment are critical for success with any hair coloring process. Materials for Foiling Hair Any one of the following will work. The point is to separate the sections of hair that are being colored from the sections that aren't... Household tin foil torn into 5 inch wide strips Saran wrap is annoying, but works in a pinch for extremely long hair

52 Page 52 of 154 Spongy sheets Crystal Film Hair Coloring Sheets Spilo Pre-Cut Professional Foil Spilo Professional Foil Roll Tools for Success Tail comb for slicing and weaving sections Duckbill clamps to separate sections (see link below) Bowls/Brushes Plastic or latex gloves Plastic bags Methods of Foiling Hair Slicing - dissect a tiny sliver of hair, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal depending on the look you want to achieve. Take into account how the piece will lay when it's hanging in its natural position. Weaving - part off a small section and weave the tail of your comb along the surface, creating either thick or thin strands...better yet, mix it up with some small, medium, and large pieces for variety and a more natural look. Paneling - or color blocking, will showcase a great style and offer variety from day to day...if it's done right. This is a very dynamic technique where large sections of hair are colored in contrasting or complimentary tones. The panels are generally underneath or at either side of the part so the paneled sections can be either played up or hidden entirely, depending on where the hair is parted. Positioning is critical with this technique, as is choosing the right color combinations. Feel free to mix it up a bit, toss in a few weaved sections with some slices, and perhaps a panel or two for added dramatic flair.

53 Page 53 of 154 However, have a plan for how and where you're placing the highlights or lowlights before even mixing the color. Don't just "wing it", or you'll likely end up with a hair color that was obviously done on a whim. Hair Coloring How-To Tutorial Highlight and Lowlight Process This section features hair coloring pictures of a foiling process for your reference.the process demonstrated in this section was done with foils from the temples up, and solid dark brown hair color from the temples down. The foils were used to highlight the hair blonde while adding color back with permanent brown hair color in the alternating foils. Overview This hair color was done at the end of summer. The client's hair is very-porous and over-highlighted to the point where it's become an all-over blonde with little color dimension. The tone, as is common with blonde hair color, is slightly brassy and her regrowth is an ash tone. She wanted a multi-tonal color, highlighted and lowlighted on top, and a solid very dark brown underneath.

54 Page 54 of 154 Step 1 Multiple sections were weaved and foiled above the temples. Blonde and medium brown colors were alternated to add dimension and bring back some depth to the color. All foils were then clipped up out of the way, and the dark brown color was applied from the temples/occipital bone down. It's important to ensure that those blonde pieces don't dangle down into any of the dark color that is applied in the bottom section. Use duckbill clips (or even small metal clips) to position those strands in a safe spot. Step 2 This photo shows a good view of the solid dark brown color applied to all underneath sections. The hair must be parted in about half inch sections and color applied right from the root through to the ends. This is especially important when covering over blonde, porous hair. If you miss a spot, it'll be obvious in the finished hair color...and not in a good way.

55 Page 55 of 154 Step 3 Once the colors have processed to the appropriate stage, the foils are removed and the hair color and bleach are rinsed well. A semi-permanent ash based color is applied as a toner, only to the roots, as the ends being over-porous will absorb the purple/grey tone from the toner. The objective of the toner is to match the newly bleached pieces to the blonde that is left on the ends. Adding the medium brown foils throughout the top sections brings some dimension back to the over-blonde ends. Step 4 The hair was then shaped into a nice layered style, which updates the look and showcases the color. Unfortunately, because of the black T-shirt, it's difficult to see the dark sections underneath, but they're there. And they add a lot of dimension and personality to this hair color. As these hair coloring pictures show, this highlight/lowlight process gives the client a much more mature and refined look. Because of the dark sections, this hair color should last for up to 3 months as the re-growth will be nicely

56 Page 56 of 154 disguised because there isn't such a contrast between the all-over blonde and the ashy re-growth. SECTION 4: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT Bleaching Hair Tips for Lightening Hair with Bleach This section offers advice on bleaching hair. You'll find information on mixing, application, and processing times when using bleach. Using bleach for lightening hair is more risky than most hair coloring processes. But with that risk comes a great reward. Bleaching hair effectively strips what appears to be our "natural" hair color, exposing the underlying pigment lurking beneath the surface. Depending on how dark your hair is naturally, your underlying pigment could range from rusty orange to pale yellow. Removing those pigments allows for a true neutral, ash or platinum blonde. If you want to lighten hair more than 3 or 4 shades, eliminate brassy blondes, or achieve a very bright punk hair color, bleach is the most effective product. Hair Bleaching Processes Here are examples of and instructions for the most common uses for bleach. Read the rest of this page for product advice and directions for mixing and storing your product. Mixing and Storing Hair Bleach Bleach comes in powder form and hydrogen peroxide is added to activate the lightening process. If you get a bleach/highlighting kit from the drugstore, the developer that comes with it will likely be 20 Volume peroxide.

57 Page 57 of 154 Add the peroxide to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring and squishing the lumps out. Your kit may have instructions for measurements. If in doubt, mix the bleach to a thick gravy consistency. Not so thin that it runs off the brush when you hold it above the bowl. If it's too runny, add more powder. If bleach is mixed to a thick consistency it tends to dry out faster and not be as effective. Close your bleach powder up tight for storage. Air causes the powder to oxidate and lose its effectiveness. Double protection inside a plastic bag, then inside a plastic tub is a good idea to keep it fresh and ready for action. Hair Bleach Cautions and Considerations Get advice on using hair bleach safely and effectively. If you're doing an all over blonde hair color, you'll have to apply hair bleach to the scalp, which can cause blistering and chemical burns. That's an extreme possibility, but could happen if you're not careful. For on-scalp lightening processes, never mix bleach with peroxide stronger than 20 Volume. And keep in mind -- bleach just keeps on doing its thing until it either dries up or gets washed off. Pay attention to what's happening on your scalp. A normal hair bleaching process will cause a slightly uncomfortable tingle on the scalp, if the tingle progresses into a burning sensation, rinse the bleach off with cool water. Bleach will lift existing hair color, especially dark colors more slowly than natural pigment. Some inexpensive (drugstore brand) hair colors contain metallic salts which can turn your hair to mush if they're

58 Page 58 of 154 processed with bleach, perm solutions, or chemical straighteners. Check the ingredients if you've used a drugstore brand hair color to make sure it doesn't contain any metallic dye components. If you aren't sure whether the existing color on your hair contains these dyes, snip a tiny section of hair from underneath and process it in a little of the bleach solution first. If you can pull it apart with your fingers after 10 or 20 minutes in the bleach solution, you'll know there's a problem. Darker colors contain more of this ingredient (in those particular brands), and the more you've used it, the more metallic salts will have been deposited on/in your hair. Using hair bleach is not a process to undergo if you value the health of your hair. It may come out feeling like straw and will be in dire need of protein/moisture treatments. If you're coloring the regrowth of pre-lightened hair, be sure not to overlap the bleach when applying it. If you get bleach on hair that's already been lightened, it could cause a chemical haircut. Never a good look! Working in small sections will help you control the hair and ensure that the bleach gets only where you want it. Avoid squishing the hair down on top of previously bleached sections to prevent product transfer. If any bleach gets where you don't want it...even the smallest drip, blot it up with a towel and blast that piece of hair (or skin, clothing, furniture, etc...) with water immediately to stop the bleaching action. One last word on using hair bleach safely...wear gloves! Unless you like an unbearable biting sensation as chemicals eat away at your skin. Tips for Creating Great Blonde Hair Color This section offers advice on hair bleaching safely and effectively to get a true blonde hair color. This process requires a lot of maintenance as the regrowth begins to show within only a few weeks. If you want a blonde color with a bit less coloring frequency, try foiling hair to add blonde highlights.

59 Page 59 of 154 Hair Bleaching TipsStick with no higher than 20 Volume peroxide for on-scalp bleaching. If you are foiling hair, you can use up to 40 volume peroxide with your bleach powder, but not when it's coming in direct contact with your skin. For very dark hair, bleach may need to be applied in two separate sittings, with a fresh batch each time. To get a consistent color, you need to start with an even slate...meaning root to end the hair strand should be near the same color level before you apply the hair color or toner. In some cases, a high lift blonde hair color will do the trick, but not if there's already color on the hair...too unpredictable. And some high-lift colors can leave your hair with a brassy hue, making it difficult to achieve a platinum blonde shade. If that's the case, hair bleaching and toning is necessary. Hair Bleaching Application Tips Methods for applying bleach to hair vary widely depending on the existing state of the hair and the desired result. A few rules of thumb that apply in every case are... Don't overlap bleach on previously colored hair. It'll either cause a banding effect or, worst case scenario a "chemical haircut". Apply to the darkest areas first so they process the longest. Clean up any spills promptly, whether on hair, clothing or furniture. Have all supplies on hand and ready before you begin. Work quickly...but carefully!) Start applying bleach in the back of the head where hair is usually darkest, working you way up to the front in half inch sections. Apply bleach quickly and thoroughly...oh, and carefully too!

60 Page 60 of 154 If it takes you too long to get through all the hair, let the bleach process until the lightest section is at the right stage, rinse, then re-apply starting from the other side (in the darkest area) and cover only the hair that needs more lightening. Bleach loses its effectiveness if it dries out, so cover the hair with a plastic cap, and if it's a particularly difficult head of hair to lighten...apply some heat. If you use a blowdryer to apply heat, add a diffuser attachment to spread that warm air around evenly or you could end up with "hot spots". Yes, hair bleaching is finicky, but well worth the effort when done correctly! Processing All bleach processing times differ depending on your desired end result. Successful bleach lightening is a visual thing, watching for the underlying pigment to be lifted high enough that your finished color can be achieved. If you're going for a very light blonde color, the underlying pigment must be raised up to a pale-yellow stage. However, if you're pre-lightening very dark hair to create warm golden highlights, the yellow-orange stage would be the time to rinse off the bleach and tone the hair. If you're bleaching hair, you must have a good grasp of the chemistry going' on behind the scenes. Coloring Grey Hair Techniques and Hair Color Advice The process of coloring grey hair can be challenging. And as the ratio of grey/natural hair shifts to a majority of grey hair, the challenge increases... or so it seems. In reality, there are just new factors to consider when choosing and applying your hair color. This section details the critical elements, as well as a few "insider tips" for success. Grey Hair Considerations Loss of Pigment As we mature, pigment diminishes from both our hair and skin. This affects hair coloring in two ways. First, because there is little or no pigment remaining in the hair, the color you choose must contain some degree of gold (or warm) pigment. Not so much that the color is brassy, but definitely avoid ash tones.

61 Page 61 of 154 Because the skin also loses pigment, choose a hair color that is lighter than your previous natural color. A very dark shade on paler skin can appear harsh. Darker shades also show re-growth sooner and the contrast between hair and scalp can make hair appear thinner. Tenacity/Change of Hair Texture You've likely noticed that grey hair is of a coarser texture than your original strands. And the tenacious quality not only affects the way your hair behaves (or doesn't), but also the way it takes color. The outside (cuticle) layer of rebellious greys is tightly sealed and not at all receptive to the invasion of artificial pigments. If when coloring grey hair, you find it particularly stubborn, treat it before coloring with straight 20 volume peroxide for 5-10 minutes. This will open the cuticle layer and prep it to receive pigment. Rinse the peroxide and proceed with your mission. Choosing A Hair Color Naturally pigmented hair already contains some degree of each primary color, and those variables must be considered for good results. Coloring grey hair, on the other hand, is like adding pigment to a blank slate. Think of adding a pure, bright red pigment to a white sheet of paper. What do you get? Yup. That's right... pink. Or, perhaps violet, indigo or a vibrant plum? Safe to say that most clients who are covering their grey are not in pursuit of such a hue. Neutral tones make a great base to provide coverage, then add a red or gold tone with that to achieve a natural looking hair color with depth and dimension. Application Divide the hair in quarters by creating a center parting all the way down to the nape and another across from ear to ear. Apply the color in the area with the greyest first. Work in small (half inch) sections. Go over the entire front hairline with any remaining color after you've applied it everywhere else. Processing When coloring grey hair, I generally exceed the recommended processing time. You can't go wrong by leaving it on a touch longer.

62 Page 62 of 154 It's critical that you use a permanent color for adequate coverage when coloring grey hair. Semi-permanent haircolor, or even permanent color with any less than 20 volume peroxide will merely blend grey. This is fine if that s all you want to achieve. Extra tenacious hair can be bagged up and hit with a blow-dryer and diffuser to add heat to the process. At the very least, avoid processing in a cool or drafty room when coloring grey hair. Maintenance Use a shampoo and conditioner formulated for color treated hair. To retain the richness and depth when coloring grey hair, use a pigmented conditioner between processes. Natural Grey Hair Colorants Many women are anxious to cover or conceal gray hair. Hair dyes contain many toxic chemicals and other harmful ingredients, so they are searching for a natural way to cover gray hair. This recipe is for a natural to gradually conceal graying hair. This homeopathic natural rinse will brighten and color grey hair naturally. Rosemary s Sage Hair Colorant You will need the following supplies to prepare the colorant: One fourth cup each of rubbed sage and rosemary leaves (organic if possible) One cup distilled or well water This is a very economical homemade recipe if you are a savvy shopper. Purchase the necessary herbs in bulk to save money, as buying little bottles or tins at the grocery store is not cost effective. A reliable online source for bulk herbs is One pound of organic rubbed sage costs $10.50, while one pound of organic rosemary leaves is $6.50. These herbs will last between 3 to 6 months if using the rinse one to three times weekly. How to Make: Put the cup of water into a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring water to a gentle, rolling boil. Add the herbs, cover the pan, and remove from heat. Let the herb mixture steep for at least 30 minutes. Place a coffee filter into a colander, and the colander inside a large bowl. Pour the rosemary-sage tincture slowly into the coffee filter. Some herbs may fall into the filter; do not worry if they do. Set the pan aside and take a large spoon. Press gently on top of any solids to extract liquids.

63 Page 63 of 154 Discard filter and any solids. Pour herb solution into a clean, sterilized glass jar and allow liquid to cool. Wash hair as usual, and then rinse with lukewarm water until water runs clear. Wrap hair in towel, and place a large bowl into sink to catch any overflow when applying the rosemary's sage natural hair colorant. How to Apply Position head over bowl; pour a small amount of the rosemary-sage liquid over hair. Massage rinse in thoroughly. Repeat, letting any excess run into bowl. Rinse washed hair with rosemarysage herb mixture approximately 5-10 times. Wrap hair in towel, pour any remaining rinse into glass bottle, and store in the refrigerator for another use. In between shampoos, put a small amount of this "hair tea" on a cotton ball and dab onto any visible gray areas. Most people see a noticeable difference in hair color after only one month. The herbal mixture helps soften and minimize the gray color. Gradually gray color fades and hair returns to its natural color. Summary: This is not an overnight solution or a quick fix like commercial hair dyes. It is a tried and tested formula that works. Most people prepare the rinse in advance, and store it in a cool place. It can be warmed quickly by immersing the bottle in a pan of warm water. Discard any unused solution after 7 days. How Hair Coloring Works What Exactly Is Hair? Typical mammalian hair consists of the shaft, protruding above the skin, and the root, which is sunk in a follicle, or pit, beneath the skin surface. Except for a few growing cells at the base of the root, the hair is dead tissue and is composed of keratin and related proteins. The hair follicle is a tube like pocket of the epidermis that encloses a small section of the dermis at its base. Human hair is formed by rapid divisions of cells at the base of the follicle. As the cells are pushed upward from the follicle's base, they harden and undergo pigmentation.

64 Page 64 of 154 The hair on our scalps and in our eyebrows and eyelashes are different from other bodily hairs. The hair on our heads grows a healthy.5 inch per month, and long scalp hairs have an average life of 3 to 5 years. Most of us have between 100,000 and 150,000 hairs on our heads! There are two kinds of melanin found in the hair: eumelanin (the most common and responsible for hair shades from brown to black) and phaeomelanin (responsible for yellowish-blond, ginger and red colors). Absence of pigment produces white/gray hair. Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex to deposit or remove the color. What Are the Ingredients in Hair Color? Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in His invention was based on a new chemical, paraphenylenediamine, and provided the foundation of his company, the French Harmless Hair Dye Company. A year later, the name was changed to one that is more familiar today -- L'Oreal. L'Oreal, one of the hair product giants, has grown steadily over the years; the company credits advanced and applied research of new product development and expansion into markets around the world with its global success. The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are: Hydrogen peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) -- This ingredient, in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color. The larger the volume of the developer, the greater the amount of sulfur is removed from the

65 Page 65 of 154 hair. Loss of sulfur causes hair to harden and lose weight. This is why, for the majority of hair coloring, the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less. Ammonia -- This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide. Like all alkalines, ammonia tends to separate the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. In addition, various types of alcohols, which can also dry the hair, are present in most hair color. (Check out this official ingredient list for a hair color formula.) How Do Hair Coloring Products Work? The good news is that most hair color products today have nicer smells than the tell-tale rottenegg odor that once accompanied permanents or hair coloring. And most color can be applied easily: some to wet hair, others to dry hair, worked into a shampoo-like lather, left to process (some formulas call for covering with a plastic cap during processing; others do not) and then rinsed and conditioned. The down side is still that chemicals in hair coloring can be harsh and harmful to your hair if you don't know what you're doing or if you color or perm too often. How peroxide and ammonia react with your hair is directly related to the level and kind of product you're using. Here are basic descriptions of the three major hair coloring product levels used by Clairol, L'oreal and others: Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This product adds color without changing natural color dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before treatment. This level generally lasts for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50 percent gray, enhances your natural color and leaves no roots. Semi-permanent hair dye has smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to partially penetrate the hair shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing, typically 4-5 shampoos. Semipermanents contain no developer, peroxide or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may still contain the toxic compound P- Phenylenediamine or other such ingredients. The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point where it cannot be disguised. In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semipermanent as a base and adding highlights. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair color because it contains no ammonia or peroxide.

66 Page 66 of 154 Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This product level lasts longer, through 24 to 26 shampoos. In this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex where they then partner to create medium-sized color molecules. Their larger size means they take longer to wash out. These products do not contain ammonia so the natural pigment can't be lightened. However, it contains a small amount of peroxide, which allows for a subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement. It also blends and covers gray. (Both semi- and demi-permanent colors can become permanent on permed or already-colored hair!) Level 3, permanent color -- This is what you need for a more significant color change (to go from black to blond, you'll still need to go with a process called double process blonding and it'd be wise to get this it done professionally). In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a size that cannot be washed out. Your hair actually has to grow out over time. This product acts to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then to add a new permanent color. The end result is a combination of your natural hair pigment and the new shade you chose. That means the color may appear different on you than on someone else using the same color. (That's why the "strand test" is so important -- more about that later.) Regular touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color growing at half an inch per month from your scalp. There are also hair coloring products known as "special effect" hair colors. These are the kits you buy to add highlights or streaks to your hair. They are available in varying strengths. Some are for adding highlights to natural, uncolored hair while others are made for adding highlights to already-colored hair. Double process hair color, or bleaching and toning to achieve drastic color changes, falls into this category. Most professionals recommend you don't try this one at home unless you're really adventurous and love to experiment! Newer products on the market include color-enhancing shampoos and mousses and shampoos that keep your color vivid longer. Now that we've reviewed the different product levels used in hair coloring, let's look at what actually happens to your hair. For example, if you're blonde and are going darker -- to brown -- permanent hair color uses the interaction between the ammonia and the peroxide to create a new color base in your hair shafts. If you go in the opposite direction -- from black or brown to blonde -- the hair goes through an additional step. First, bleach is used to strip the color from the hair. Then the ammonia-peroxide reaction creates the new color and deposits it in the hair shaft. If you use a semi-permanent color, the hair is coated with color, rather than deposited into the hair shaft. How Do I Choose the Right Hair Color -- and the Right Product -- for Me?Choosing a new hair color isn't as simple as finding a color you like on a box in the drugstore. You need to make this choice based on an analysis of your natural hair color, eye color and skin tone. First, let's review the basic "laws" of color. Color, as we see it, is actually the reflection of light off of the colored pigments in the hair shaft. It's sort of like the color prisms you saw in elementary school: it fractured light into distinctive colors you could see. This is what happens with hair color except that you're adding or subtracting colors to change from one color to another or to change the undertones.

67 Page 67 of 154 A shade of color is made up of different combinations of reflections off the pigments. That's why hair color -- both natural and dyed -- looks different under fluorescent lights and in natural sunlight. Color levels are the degrees of lightness or darkness of a color seen by the eye. Hair color is assigned a level number from 1 to 10, with 10 being the lightest and 1 being black. Black reflects very little light and the lightest shades of blonde reflect the greatest amount of light. A colorist would say that a level 10 blonde is two steps lighter than a level 8 blonde. Look at a color wheel or chart: Suppose you want to lighten your hair color. When hair is lightened, it produces warm, or yellow-red, undertones. Remember from school that mixing yellow and red produces orange -- not generally the desired hair color! Refer to the wheel to cancel out some of the orange tone but leave enough to keep the warm tones. The best hair colors for you if you have warm skin undertones (ivory, peachy, golden brown, creamy beige, cafe au lait, tawny, coppery, deep golden brown) and blue, blue-green hazel, green, topaz, amber or coffeebean colored eyes, are golden with red highlights, golden brown, honey brown, chestnut, copper and mahogany. Cool tones are blue-red. If your skin has rosy pink, rosy beige, dark olive, dark brown or ebony tones and your eyes are light blue, gray-blue, deep blue, deep green, brown or black, your best hair color options are plum and burgundy highlights, ash and platinum blonde, brown, dark brown, black, slate, salt and pepper and pure white. Experts say you also can't miss if you return your hair to its color when you were 12 years old! (To have some fun, try MakeoverStudio.com, which gives you some idea of how you'd look as a redhead -- or a blonde!) Your choice of hair coloring product depends on what you're trying to accomplish and how long you want your color to last. Most women start with a lower commitment level and move up to a higher level over time. If you're seeing grayer or your hair coloring isn't covering gray as well as it did, you might need to move to a higher-level product. Level 3 is the only kind of product that can completely and permanently cover any amount of gray.

68 Page 68 of 154 The all-important strand test (always explained in home coloring packages) will ensure that you've chosen the right color -- and product -- and will give you a chance to change your mind. It works like this: Mix one teaspoon of color and one teaspoon of developer (peroxide) in a glass bowl. Apply the mixture to the roots or ends to determine the outcome. You can protect the test strand from the other hair by wrapping a piece of tin foil around the strand and securing it with a clip. Time the process according to package directions, then rinse and dry the strand. Look at it in different types of light to see if you like it. What Can I Do About Gray Hair? No, it's not your imagination. Some gray hairs -- especially coarse hairs, prematurely gray hairs and gray hairs around the temples and hairlines -- are especially resistant to color or quicker to lose color than other gray hairs. Try the following suggestions: Apply color to gray areas first. (This gives resistant gray hairs more time to absorb color.) Leave color on longer. (Adjust your timing and try it first in the strand test. Grays could take up to 45 minutes to color.) Increase your hair color level. (If your grays still show up even after you've adjusted the timing on your semi- or demi-permanent color, you might consider going up a level.) Science is also searching for a better solution to gray hair. Cancer researchers learned that liposomes, substances that deliver a drug into the body, can be used to deposit melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color, inside follicles and color hair from the roots up. If further research proves successful, products could be available in the next 10 years, they predict. On another front, after 30 years of research, L'oreal laboratories have developed a precursor molecule for melanin, dihydroxyl-5.6-indole, which enables the natural process of hair pigmentation to take place biologically through a slow oxydization process. With the right proportions, everyone could get back their own natural hair color! Researchers are using this new chemical to come up with a new way to enhance hair color or cover gray. Up to 30% white hair, dyed with regular Natural henna. When dyed with our range of Natural colours will get following results. Please see below the chart, which will help you selecting your hair desired colour: Effect of Lustrous Henna Red Brown Burgundy Light Brown The hair will color in the same way it This will give brown ton over all. This will turn your white hair in soft This will turn your white hair in light

69 Page 69 of 154 colors with Natural Henna but at least 30% darker look then henna with nice reddish brown reflection against light. Your white hair will appear brown and mix well with black hair. Your black hair will get nice reddish brown reflection against light. black kind of colour. Your white hair will merge with black hair and your will get beautiful soft black colour on your hair with nice blackish brown reflection against light. brown and will give reflection of brown colour against light. What Kind of Hair Color Do Men Use? Everybody is familiar with progressive hair dyes for men -- products that build up to the desired color upon repeated use. There has been some question about the use of lead acetate as the developer in these products. (Some researchers worry about the danger of lead contamination to users and their children through hair and hands.) Professional colorists say they never use products containing leads because heads colored with these dyes can experience scalp burn when a conventional hair dye is used later. They say a special product must be used to remove all lead from the hair before traditional coloring. On the other hand, manufacturers of Grecian Formula, GreyRemover and other progressive dyes say their products are safe because they contain small amounts of lead acetate (about 0.6 percent) -- amounts so small they can't be absorbed by the body if applied to a healthy scalp. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration approves the use of lead acetate in these small concentrations. So, educate yourself. Read the box carefully and if you have a question, call the company and/or a professional colorist. Or, you can do what many men are already doing: switch to women's hair color, which contains no lead acetate and comes in a much wider selection of products. One of the newest trends among (mostly young) men is tipping, in which just the tops of their short, spiky hair strands are bleached or dyed (a la George Clooney and Ricky Martin) while the roots are left long and uncolored. L'oreal's new Feria for Men offers colors ranging from "goth black" to the most popular shade, "platinum blond." (Many colorists say they prefer working on guys because, if the color isn't quite right, the guys will often just tell them to shave it all off! Not likely with women!) Hair professionals are reporting that older men are getting that gray "erased" more and more often, citing the desire to remain viable in the ever-younger job market. Check out Clairol's "Male Hair Care" hair color section for more information. How Do I Take Care of My Newly Colored Hair?

70 Page 70 of 154 Color treated hair has special needs. Follow these tips to keep your hair looking great: Use a shampoo created especially for color-treated hair (Revlon, L'oreal, Aveda and Clairol all make them) Wear hats or hair products with sunscreens to prevent your color from fading and drying in the sun Dampen your hair with bottled spring water before getting into a chlorine pool (it will help dilute the chlorine) Condition regularly Don't brush hair when wet -- use a wide-toothed comb Blot your hair dry -- don't wrap it or roughly dry it with a towel Avoid overdrying -- blow dry until hair is almost, but not entirely, dry SECTION 5: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT Types of hair color The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent', 'demipermanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only') and "permanent". Temporary hair color Temporary hair color is available as rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and foams among others. This type of hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent and permanent hair color. Temporary color is most often used to color hair for special occasions and is often used in unusual shades for events, parties, costumes, and Halloween. Temporary hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent and permanent hair color. It is most often used to color hair for special occasions such as costume parties and Halloween. The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and cannot penetrate the cuticle layer. Instead, the color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair shaft and are easily removed with a single shampooing. Temporary color means exactly what the name says. On normal, healthy hair, temporary colors will not penetrate the hair. They coat the hair; they are usually acidic in chemical composition and are easily removed by shampooing. Temporary color has no lasting quality because it disappears at the first shampooing and will not lighten natural hair color.

71 Page 71 of 154 Temporary colors (usually rinses) are "addition only' and usually last only from shampoo to shampoo. Because temporary colors are nonpenetrating (on healthy hair), they deposit color only to the outside of the hair shaft, They are water soluble and therefore affected by weather conditions such as rain, humidity, snow, or even excess perspiration. Temporary colors will not dramatically change hair color but add highlights or deposit different shades to enhance present colors. The obvious exceptions apply to extremely porous hair, which may take numerous shampoos for color removal, and the color may actually never completely fade from the hair. Temporary colors coat the hair temporarily, do not damage the hair, and often add lustre and conditioning in add-on to the deposit of desired colors. However, even temporary hair color can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or damaged, allowing for migration of the pigments to the interior of the hair shaft. Often the hair nearest the scalp (the most oily and healthy) will be resistant to any type of coating. When applying a temporary color, keep that in mind. Temporary color is often used to tone or neutralize unwanted yellow in white or gray hair. It is also often used to tone over tightened hair. After a virgin bleach or extreme corrective color, the scalp may be too sensitive for any type of oxidative toner or color, If so, the hair could be temporarily toned with temporary color. Semi-permanent hair color Semi-permanent hair dye has smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to partially penetrate the hair shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing, typically 4-5 shampoos. Semi-permanents contain no, or very low levels of developer, peroxide or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may still contain the toxic compound P-Phenylenediamine or other such ingredients.

72 Page 72 of 154 The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point where it will not be disguised as well. In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semipermanent as a base and adding highlights.semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair. Demi-permanent hair color Demi permanent hair color is permanent hair color that contains an alkaline agent other than ammonia (e.g., ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and, while always employed with a developer, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may be lower than used with a permanent hair color. Since the alkaline agents employed in demi-perms are less effective in removing the natural pigment of hair than ammonia, these product provide no lightening of hair's color during dyeing. As the result, they cannot color hair to a lighter shade than it was before dyeing and are less damaging to hair than their permanent counterpart. Demi-permanents are much more effective at covering gray hair than semi-permanents, but less so than permanents. Demi-permanents have several advantages as compared with permanent color. Because there is essentially no lifting (i.e., removal) of natural hair color, the final color is less uniform/homogeneous than a permanent and therefore more natural looking; they are gentler on hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve. Demi-permanent hair colors are, in essence, permanent color and the darker shades in particular may persist longer than indicated on the packet. Permanent color

73 Page 73 of 154 Hair with blonde highlights All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing agent (most often ammonia).when the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer cause a chemical reaction that swells the hair permitting the tint to enter the cortex, where the melanin is located. The melanin is lightened and subsumed by the new color. The ammonia swells the cuticle of the hair to allow the color pigments to penetrate deep into the hair shaft. Permanent color is truly permanent and will not wash out, although it may fade. New hair regrowth will obviously be in the hair's natural color, meaning that regular monthly or sixweekly coloring will be essential for as long as the hair color is maintained.

74 Page 74 of 154 Permanent haircolor is the only way to dye dark hair into a lighter shade, and it must be done in two parts: First, the hair is lightened, then color is applied. Ways to get rid of permanent hair color include bleaching (if you don't mind damage or yellow/orange hair), stripping with a color remover (which will return hair to its normal color if hair has only been dyed with a permanent color once), or just cutting off the permanently dyed hair. Hair lighteners and bleaches "Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair plus the raising of the cuticle making the hair more porous. Different lightening products (bleaches) on the market are great for different effects. The text in this course discusses the basic description for lighteners, and the three types used by cosmetologists. If you are doing on-the-scalp lightening, the one recommended is usually creme bleach because it doesn't dry quickly with the body heat. It also has buffers, which allow for more boosters. Off-the-scalp (foils, weaves, frosts, etc.) usually call for powdered bleaches. They lift more quickly, and their consistency facilitates application. Creme oil bleach is available for on-the-scalp lifting but is considered slower and milder. Whichever you decide to use, remember bleach is a strong chemical and must be used with care and safe. Double-process tinting is a service where the hair is first prelightened with a bleach formula, then toned with a pastel or fashion shade. A note of caution: Always wear gloves when performing lightening services. To wear hair color extremely light (platinum) it must be lightened every 10 to 14 days. The simplest and most effective way to get a very light, white look is to retouch often! If your clients are hesitant about having their lightening services performed this often, and who can blame them, keep in mind that past 1/4 inch away from the head, the natural pigment will not lighten as quickly due to the lack of body heat. Apply to the shaft first, then to the scalp area, which will lighten much more quickly.

75 Page 75 of 154 Recondition with protein after every bleach service, if not after every shampoo! Advise clients about the at-home maintenance that is required with a great light look. Many clients will opt for the high lift look or a foiled, highlighted effect instead of the constant maintenance of bleaching. Once a client is hooked, however you can take the money to the bank, as long as you take care of the hair scalp, and the client! Keep in mind the power of positive, professional vocabulary! "Bleaching" hair sounds less professional, cheaper and dated. You are performing a lightening or highlighting service! In case you are already thinking that it's "too much trouble" to lighten on the scalp, many world-class competitors and internationally renowned stylists love hair that has been lightened with bleach and toned (referred to as double-process or two step coloring). The reason for this preference for lightened or high lift colored hair is the pliability and flexibility of the hair. The hair shaft is expanded due to the chemical reaction, creating lots of "body" for easily molded hair. Although it is possible to lighten hair from very black to very light, it is not usually done for the following reasons: More pigment in the darker hair substantially increases processing time and potential damage to the hair and scalp. Most people with dark hair do not lighten through I 0 stages because of the rapid appearance of dark regrowth and subsequent maintenance. In the hair industry this process is referred to as "high maintenance" hair. Skin tone of people with extremely dark-colored hair usually looks better with medium light, not extremely light hair. The procedures for lightening do not vary much from school to school or manufacturer to manufacturer. For retouches, apply the product to the shaft and ends only if necessary to lighten more or if there is off-coloring on the strand. If it appears absolutely necessary to remove off-color tones or brassy bands, dilute your lightening formula with conditioning shampoo, and then follow your lightening service with a deep reconditioning treatment. Repeated use of high ammonia products is extremely hard on the hair and may easily cause severe damage or breakage! Application techniques

76 Page 76 of 154 Hair color was traditionally applied to the hair as one overall color. The modern trend is to use several colors to produce streaks or gradations, either on top of the natural color or on top of a single base color. These are referred to as: Highlighting, where sections of hair are treated with lighteners, usually to create blond streaks. Lowlighting, where sections of hair are treated with darker hair color. These can be applied by the following methods: Foils, where pieces of foil or plastic film are used to separate off the hair to be colored; especially when applying more than one color. Cap, when a plastic cap is placed tight on the head and strands are pulled through with a hook. Balayage, where hair color is painted directly onto sections of the hair with no foils used to keep the color contained. All application techniques can be used with any type of color. For highlights, the hair will usually have to be bleached before coloring. Exotic hair colorants Hair and beard colored blue. A minority of hair coloring products are designed to create hair colors not typically found in nature. These are available in almost any color imaginable, including green or fuchsia.these dyes are typically sold in punk-themed stores (such as comic book and music stores), with brand names like "Beyond The Zone", "Splat", "Clairol Jazzing", "Manic Panic", "Special Effects", "Punky Colour". A permanent alternative in some colors (such as bold infra-red and dark, inky purples and blues) is available in the U.S. under "Paul Mitchell: Inkworks" and "Chi: InfaReds". Some exotic color shades are backlight reactive, to show up under nightclub lighting.the chemical formulae of exotic colored dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. This means that they will only create the bright color of the packet if they are applied to light blond hair. People with darker hair (medium brown to black) will need to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well. Gold, yellow and orange

77 Page 77 of 154 undertones in hair that hasn't been lightened enough can adversely affect results, especially with pinks, blues, and greens. Most Profitable Service Corrective colors are usually the most easily charged-for service for the following reasons: You usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color. Conditioners are essential. Fillers are almost always required. Your expertise as a colorist is challenged and valuable. Often these services are one-time only. Possibly more than one visit will be required, but the client knows most of the initial expense was for correction. Corrective coloring can be controlled and safe providing you follow certain rules and actually "look for trouble." In other words, question the client regarding previous treatments, and then ask yourself these questions: 1. Is the hair in good or bad condition? 2. Are the client's expectations realistic? 3. Is the hair "safe" to work on? Any metallic salts or compound dyes involved? 4. Have I thought of all the possibilities, and do I have a plan of action? As with regular color formulations, you must consider the three contributions for the end result: 1. Hair 2. Color 3. H 2 O 2 a. Base b. Target

78 Page 78 of 154 If the hair is damaged, or even questionable, you are much wiser to proceed slowly. Do not take chances. Recondition as much as you think is necessary before proceeding. If the integrity of the hair is compromised to the extent that it is weakened, breakage may occur. Just as important, color may not adhere to protein-deficient hair, but fade or wash out quickly. Whenever you do corrective coloring, two assumptions are safe: 1. You will almost always need to use filler or repigmentize the hair. Fillers: a. Help to equalize excessive porosity. b. Deposit color to faded ends in the absence of developer. c. Make streaking and off-color less likely. d. Produce natural-looking tint having uniformity and shine. To determine what filler to use: Follow the manufacturer ' s advice, or go with a filler that has deep red plus gold for levels I to 5; orange for levels 6 and 7; and gold for levels 8 to 10. The intensity of the filler should be determined by the level of your target color. 2. You will need to recondition the hair: a. Prior to your corrective color service; reconditioners help the pigment adhere to the hair b. After your corrective color, reconditioners help lock in the pigment, making it fade less. c. Reconditioners allow you to proceed with caution! Types of Corrective Coloring Corrective coloring is usually done for these reasons: 1. Fix what clients or others have done. 2. Create extreme changes in image. 3. Tint from lighter hair to darker, natural color (tint-back). 4. Strip or remove color treatments before lightening to achieve lighter levels. 5. Correct off-colors (green, silver, purple, blue, brassy, and so forth). Fixing Mistakes Unfortunately, many clients "play around" with color at home. Some are lucky; many are not. Although as professionals we may talk until we're blue in the face about reasons for them to let us do their hair, human nature tells some clients "you can do it yourself."

79 Page 79 of 154 They do, and sometimes get it really wrong: brassy gold instead of sandy beige, green instead of ash blonde, black instead of their own soft brown. Your response to these predicaments might be, "I'll do what I can. I know my colors and won't give up until you have a nice color again." If done properly your clients will swear by your skills when finished! A goal for corrective color: Keep expectations reasonable, and then knock their socks off! Most clients are so desperate when needing a terrible color fixed, they practically become groupies when you deliver a lovely, natural, healthy-looking color. Plus, they expect to pay more because they made the mistake in the first place! Image Change You can warn your clients, "This service costs more. I do this, this, this, and this to ensure your color looks as great as possible." The procedure for an extensive image change varies depending on the client, but it usually involves multiple steps, and each step involves time. Time, in turn, is charged for. Tint-Backs Tint-backs are services that return the client to her previous color or a darker color. They almost always require fillers and usually require conditioning. Color Removal or Stripping A color removal service is almost always followed by a toner or tint, and for a good reason. The color remover has a higher ph, which opens the cuticle of the hair. An oxidizing tint, on the other hand, fills that cuticle and can act as a conditioning treatment with its lower ph. The oxidation will lock in the color and reflect more shine. A toner or tint also requires reconditioning and often fillers on porous ends and can also require more than one tint formula for different areas. Correcting Off-Colors This procedure often includes a color removal treatment, conditioning, and filling porous ends, depending on the base color level and target color.

80 Page 80 of 154 Adverse Effects of Hair Coloring Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. Use of these chemicals can result in a range of adverse effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin discoloration and unexpected hair color results. Additionally, there is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences of hair color usage, including lead poisoning. Skin irritation and allergy In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin irritation.symptoms of these reactions can include redness, sores, itching, burning sensation and discomfort. If any of these symptoms occur, alert your hair colorist immediately so that they can remove the color. Symptoms will not always be present right at the application and processing of the tint but can also arise after hours or even a day. To help prevent or limit allergic reactions, the majority of hair color products recommend that the client conduct a patch test before using the product. This involves mixing a small quantity of tint preparation and applying it directly to the skin for a period of 24 hours. If irritation develops, manufacturers recommend that the client not use the product. A skin patch test is advised before the use of every coloring process, since allergies can develop even after years of use with no reaction. Adverse reactions can result from both at-home and salon hair coloring products, as similar chemicals are used in both settings.in some cases, allergic reactions are caused by the aniline derivative and/or p-phenylenediamine (PPD) found in permanent hair color. Hair breakage After just one use, hair color can begin to wear away hair s outermost f-layer, the same fatty and water repellent covering that allows a dog to clamber out of a lake and shake off most of the droplets. Without this thin outer coating, hair can feel drier and coarser, appear duller, and allow water to soak in more easily.

81 Page 81 of 154 Flat overlapping cells form the next layer, called the cuticle, which protects the hair s central cortex much like a shingled roof. Within that cortex, coiled protein fibers give hair its strength and granules of melanin pigment govern its natural color. For a permanent dye to be effective, hydrogen peroxide must squeeze between the cuticle cells and bleach the central melanin, with ammonia serving as the catalyst. With the melanin s own color drained away, the hydrogen peroxide sets off a reaction that causes hair color precursors to link up and show their true colors, whether a light auburn or a medium brown. Repeated hair coloring can strain and chip away the cuticle leaving hair harder to control even as determined brushers become unwitting accomplices in destroying more of the unstable shingle-like cells. And with less of the cuticle to stop them, the radicals are free to attack the protein fibers wound up within the cortex by forcing apart their structural supports and fraying their ends. Hence, those nasty split ends. Even if you don t color your hair, you have a small amount of copper from the tap water. With every dye treatment, the hydroxyl radicals poke holes in the hair s waterproofing and make it increasingly porous, allowing more copper to get in during your next shampoo. People who repeatedly color their hair, in fact, end up accumulating significant copper levels and compounding the damage. Hair that has been damaged by excessive exposure to chemicals is considered 'over-processed'. This results in dry, rough and fragile hair. In extreme cases, the hair can be so damaged that it breaks off entirely. This is especially true for Afro-textured hair, especially if used in combination with relaxers. Treatments are available but the only real solution is to stop the use of chemicals until the hair recovers. It is advised that colored hair be deep conditioned regularly, and washed and conditioned with gentle products specifically designed for color-treated hair. This will help keep the hair intact, as well as ensuring that the color doesn't fade as quickly. Skin discoloration Skin and fingernails are made of the same type of keratinized protein as hair. That means that drips, slips and extra hair tint around the hairline can result in patches of discolored skin. This is more common with darker hair colors and persons with dry absorbent skin.this discoloration will disappear as the skin naturally renews itself and the top layer of skin is removed (typically takes a few days or at most a week). A good way to prevent dye discoloration is to put a thin layer of Vaseline or any oil-based preparation around the hairline. It is recommended that latex gloves be worn to protect the hands. Unpredictable color resultsseveral factors influence the final color of the hair following the coloring process.

82 Page 82 of 154 For semi-permanent and demi-permanent color, the final color is always a blend of the natural color of the strand and the dye color. Bleached blond hair will most of the time require pre-pigmentation before a color application is possible (for instance, dying blond hair brunette can result in bright red or green hair). Previous use of henna (except for 100% pure, Body Art Quality henna) and "color restorers" can react unpredictably with hair dyes. Previous use of some shampoos, which deposit a layer of plastic on the hair can block the action of the dye. Presence of minerals, salts, chlorine or other environmental contaminants usually from residential water supplies or sea water Certain prescription drugs can alter hair chemistry Dying dark hair blond requires knowledge of color theory. Once the hair is bleached, it will have a yellow or coppery shade. A violet-based color must be used to cancel out yellow tones, and a blue-based shade will cancel out coppery orange. Professional hair colorists have a number of products which can correct or reduce the impact of unintended hair coloring outcomes. Health concerns There is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences that may result from use of hair coloring. Recent publications regarding the dangers of hair tints include: An FDA study that found lead acetate (the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such as Grecian formula) to be potentially toxic. Articles that link the development of some forms of cancer (including leukemia, non-hodgkin's lymphoma, bladder cancer, blood cancer, and multiple myeloma) with use of hair color. More specifically, prolonged use of permanent dark hair dyes can actually double a person's risk of getting various types of blood cancer. Recently a known human carcinogen, 4-Aminobiphenyl or 4-ABP, was found in some hair dyes that you can get off the shelf. Alternatives to Industrial Tints Ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, red ochre and leeks. Presently, there are companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colors. There are also safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based, and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options with the same persistence as the

83 Page 83 of 154 industrial versions - however in practice, these products often do not last as long as industrial tints. Users should be cautioned that allergic reactions are possible even from "natural" vegetable dyes. Henna is a plant (Lawsonia inermis) used for ayurvedic hair coloring. The orange dye is commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin and is therefore considered semi-permanent to permanent, depending on a person's hair type. However, most people will achieve a permanent color, especially after the second dye. In other words, henna is permanent and does not wash out or fade away. With repeated use, the orange color builds up into red and then auburn on the hair. While "natural" henna is generally a red color, variations exist. These variations, however, usually contain ingredients from other plants and even synthetic dyes. Indigo is natural dye from a plant (Indigofera tinctoria, suffructicosa or arrecta) that can be added to henna or layered on top of it to create brown to black colors in the hair. On the color wheel, henna is orange, and indigo is blue, so the two colors work together to create brown tones. Like henna, indigo may fade after one application, but it becomes permanent on the hair with repeated use. Using a plant-based color such as henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a perm or permanent hair color. Pure imported body art quality henna is claimed not to cause such problems, but most store-bought henna is mixed with additives which can lead to unpredictable results. Although it may not be visible on darker hair, the staining from henna will remain for several months and this may only be realized when dyeing is attempted and an unpleasant, permanent orange color results. Another method of hair dye is kool-aid. There are many colors available, including blue, pink, green, purple, and red. Choosing a Hair Color Time was when your hair color choices were blonde, red, brunette, and black, but those days are long gone! Each basic hair color comes in a full array of choices from platinum blonde to jetblack. Moreover, the modern consumer must choose from non-traditional hair colors that range from hot pink to chartreuse. However, the wrong hair color choice can give you the blues and leave you red in the face! First Hair Color Choices The best method in choosing a hair color is first to choose the results you want from it. Depending on whether you are covering gray, highlighting a natural hair color, or using hair color to completely change your image, knowing what you want helps you to narrow down hair coloring choices. Before you get down to choosing a hair color, first decide on your commitment

84 Page 84 of 154 to hair coloring. Temporary hair colors wash out in a shampoo or two, semi permanent products typically last for a couple of months, while permanent dyes may either give you grow-out pains or necessitate frequent root touch ups. Choosing a Compatible Hair Color After you ve decided on results and made your commitment, it s time to get out the color wheel. Beauty experts tell us that we re either cool or warm depending on our skin tone, eye color, and natural hair color. Eyes Hair Skin Cool Category Dark Brown, Black-Brown, Gray Blue, Dark Blue, or Hazel with white gray or blue flecks Blue black, Deep brown, Ash brown, Ash Blond, Platinum Blond Very dark brown, True olive, Medium pale, Medium with golden undertones, Pale, Bronze Warm Category Golden brown, Green, Green-Blue, Turquoise, Hazel with gold or brown flecks Deep brown with gold or red highlights, Red, Strawberry Blond, Gray-Yellow, Natural Golden Blond Brown with pink or golden undertones, Peachy or with peachy undertones, Pale with gold undertones, Freckled, Ruddy Although this is good advice, if you ve just finished a tanning session, if you have some complexion problems (Rosacea, liver spots, blemishes), or if your hair color is already not what nature intended (in other words previously tinted or more salt than pepper), it may be difficult to determine by examining your skin tone and hair color. Don t despair! There is a shortcut! Examine your wardrobe. Cool hues are green, blue, and violet. Warm hues are reds, oranges, and yellows. Chances are, your wardrobe is a mix with either cool or warm hues in the majority. Clothing colors that look good on you and make you feel comfortable probably indicate if you re in the cool or warm category. For instance, if olive drab makes you fade into the woodwork, then cool tones like ash blonde (ash tones contain green) are probably not for you. In addition, most commercial hair colors have aids on the box, yet if you have a hard time deciding which group is your group, you may want to seek the advice of a professional hair stylist. Hair Color Tips: 1. Highlighting is a great way to add tone to monochromatic hair (jet black, pure brown). 2. Beware of hair colors that have green, blue, or purple undertones, like ash. If you mix them with warm tones, your hair color will turn out green.

85 Page 85 of The levels (one to twelve) you see on hair coloring boxes are the lightness or darkness of the color. Level one is black (darkest) and level twelve is light blond. 4. Complimentary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel. Blue-orange, violet-yellow, etc. If you want to neutralize unwanted highlights, choose the complementary color. For instance, red will cancel out an ash undertone, and an ashen color neutralizes any red highlights in your hair. 5. Be sure to check if your hair color is a progressive dye. Progressive dyes continually add more color with each use. For instance, if you re coloring blond hair black, your first use of a progressive hair color may not give the result you expected. However, continued use will turn your hair jet black. 6. Hair colors, like perms, are chemically based. If you re pregnant, be sure to check with your doctor before coloring your hair. 7. Henna hair dyes are organic based hair colors that don t mix well with chemicals. 8. Stay out of the pool and the ocean after coloring your hair. Neither sea salt nor chlorine mixes well with chemical hair colors. SECTION 6: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT HAIR COLORING TECHNIQUES Past hair coloring techniques often made it necessary to camouflage a dye job with a perky cut or a wig. Lightening jet-black hair meant hours of bleaching that left hair looking more like yellow straw than platinum blond. Towheads, who wanted a darker shade, were often left with a gothic look before gothic was a trend and those looking for strawberry blond commonly got fireengine red. Of course, modern hair coloring techniques made fire-engine red a fashion trend instead of a hair coloring catastrophe! Modern hair coloring techniques add true dimension to style right down to the natural movement of your hair. Highlights, twilights, and lowlights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your face and your hairstyle. In addition, hair coloring techniques include veiling and chunking.

86 Page 86 of 154 The methods used for application are many and varied. Several modes of application are equally adequate and professional. Be advised that you should: 1. Make it look as though the client would have difficulty trying to copy your procedure at home. (Brush application) 2. Make your application as neat and professional as possible. 3. Find a method that is easy for you to master and use efficiently. In other words, get it on fast! Keep in mind, color begins developing the moment it is mixed with the developer, so you have to be very competent with your applications. CONSULTATION AND PREPARATION Begin all color services with client consultation! Then: 1. Most salons today prefer having their clients change to a tint gown for the process. It's much more practical, not to mention safer when it comes to any spills that might occur if a customer has a stain on his or her clothing, and it is not the customer's fault it's yours. You alone are responsible for making certain the proper procedures and precautions are taken. 2. If you do not have gowns at your disposal, make sure you protect the client's clothing with a towel. At all times make sure the cape is pulled out from the chair to protect clothing. 3. Preshampoo! Use a clarifier and really get down cleaning hair! Comb through hair and dry under a cool dryer to avoid scalp irritations. Don't scrub or stimulate the scalp before a chemical treatment-just lightly apply the clarifier making sure it absorbs into all the hair. 4. Next, place a towel on the outside of the cape around the neck and clip. (You may, on occasion, have salon owners or managers who don't want you to use too many towels-honest!). Whatever the policies and procedures followed, try to rate customer comfort as your first and utmost consideration. 5. Before mixing the color, use cream around the edges of the hairline (on skin only) to prevent stains and irritations. The only exception is with light blondes because the pigment weight will not allow for staining of the skin.

87 Page 87 of Section in quadrants (fourths). a. Part from middle ear to ear b. Part down the center of the head. c. Clip o of the way. Put on your gloves! Always use gloves, or eventually your hands will develop sensitivities to products not to mention how awful those stained hands look! 7. Mix color right before applying to use the full development time. Most manufacturers want you to put the H in first, then the color. For lifting tints, you should mix only enough formula to apply to one section at a time. 8. Start applying where? a. If you're going darker, start in the lightest area (usually the front). b. If you're going lighter, start in the darkest area (usually the back). As a rule, when applying color, outline each section first, except right on the hairline edges. Do it quickly. It will aid you by showing the outline of your work. Don't apply right on the hairline hairs at first because they're so fine they will grab darker. Types of Hair Coloring Techniques BASIC PROCEDURES The following is a normal tint application using a brush procedure found to be effective: 1. Begin applying at the top of the head.

88 Page 88 of Slant your sections up toward the front to accommodate the round shape of the head. 3. Use very small section lines (1/8 inch for retouches and 1/4 inch for shaft applications). 4. Start 1/2 inch out from scalp for virgin lightening or reds.

89 Page 89 of Apply from roots to ends with virgin hair going same tone or darker. 6. Rest the handle of the brush on the tips of the forefinger and middle finger; hold the brush in place with your thumb. 7. Rotate the brush between thumb and finger to use the tip of the handle to make diagonal partings. 8. Draw a line to your thumb.

90 Page 90 of Grasp the sectioned hair between thumb and forefinger. 10. Push excess hair downward with the brush handle still flat to separate the strands. 11. Then l i f t the strand away and out with tension, then upward. 12. Dip brush in color formula. 13. Scrape the product from the back side of the brush. 14. Rotate the brush in your fingers and apply to the regrowth from the top of the regrowth in one continuous motion. 15. If regrowth is less than 1/4 inch use the edge of the brush, drawing tips of brush along the subparting, working the color into the scalp. 16. Repeat until finished. Some reminders may be helpful: Be careful! Don't overlap! Dip your brush in the color formula for each section application. Remove any excess color from the skin around the hairline as soon as your application is completed. The more care you take during and immediately after application, the easier the color removal will be! Lift the hair out from the scalp to assist the oxidation process. If you are applying to the shaft or ends, coat the brush more liberally. (These areas are more porous and require more product.) You should still use one side only of the brush for neatness; hold the hair on your outstretched palm and work the color into the hair on your palm. After coating all the hair comb the product from scalp to ends, or as indicated by the process you require. Your color is complete when the desired color is reached (usually when the regrowth matches the shaft and ends).

91 Page 91 of 154 Highlights: Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brightens and adds shine. Highlights work best in warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color or created with over-the-counter hair mascara, such as Christian Dior's Mascara Flash Highlights or Revlon Professional Luminates, both of which wash out after one shampoo. Twilighting: When you want a lighter hair color to show a subtle change, twilighting is the answer. Twilighting tones down too-bright hair colors by adding a few darker tones. Twilights are closely related to lowlights. Lowlights: A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color. Like twilights, low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. Veiling: Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade. Chunking: Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. Chunking is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding bright, trendy colors to natural hair color. WEAVE AND FOIL PROCEDURES Because weave and foil techniques are so predominant in today's salons, every colorist needs to have skill in the application of these techniques. Frosts are being replaced with more accurate and professional foils with weaving and foiling techniques. These techniques not only intrigue the client and look as though they are more artistic and difficult, they are nearly impossible to duplicate at home. Here are some suggestions for great streaks or weavings. Weave Procedure After consultation, plan color(s) to be used and your pattern. Example: Use two colors, a blonde and a medium red, to add highlights. Alternate two blonde weavings with one red to have a golden blonde highlight, two red with one blond for a more strawberry blonde effect, or one medium lift light blonde, one darker golden blonde, and one thin slice one or two levels darker than the client's own color This gives movement and dimension to the hair.

92 Page 92 of 154 Use 3 formulas for a dimensional effect that creates movement: 1. medium lift light blond 2. one darker golden blonde 3. one darker than client's color Remember the Rules of Haircoloring, especially #4. Include enough of the darker tint formula to "ground" the hair color and give it a balanced effect. The beauty of planning your pattern is that it allows you creativity and helps customize your techniques. 1. Prepare foils (should be done before your scheduled appointment time). 2. Prepare your client for a tint, remembering to use tint apron or smock and gloves for yourself. 3. Divide the hair into the desired sections. Your vertical panels should be no wider than three inches. 4. Two choices: a. When making your subsections, begin parting at the bottom of each panel and work up to avoid slippage of the woven strands.

93 Page 93 of 154 b. If beginning at the top, lay your foil against the top of the head and push each strand up against it to avoid slippage. 5. When performing a weave procedure, mix very small amounts of product, enabling continuity in lift and timing. If bleach is used for the procedure, stagger volumes to control the lift. Example: first panel, use 10 volume, second use 20, etc. 6. Beginning in the area that requires the most lift or deposit effect, part a I /4-inch subsection horizontally and hold at a 90 angle from the base with tension. 7. Holding a wiretail comb parallel to the section, beginning on the right side of the section, insert the wiretail comb with an up and down motion, weaving across subsection hair to the opposite side of the section. 8. With the woven hair grasped in your thumb and forefinger, push the lower part of the subsection downward with the wiretail, separating the strands. 9. If using choice (a), take one piece of precut foil; fold the top 1/4 inch over the edge of the wiretail comb, making a clean, straight fold. It's a toss up. Some people prefer the folded edge on the under side of the foil, some prefer the folded edge on the upper side. 10. Lift the separated subsection and place the wiretail with foil attached directly under the parting against the scalp.

94 Page 94 of Hold the edges of foil from above, just past the edges of the subsectioned strands. Slide the wiretail comb out without disturbing the hair. 12. Still holding the thumb and finger against the foil, load the tint brush with your premixed formula. Starting 1 / I 6 inch from the edge of foil, apply to all strands on foil with a downward motion, allowing for complete coverage and keeping the hair in place on the foil. 13. With your thumb and finger against the foil, fold the foil toward the scalp in half; fold left side over to the center, then the right side or use the wiretail to crease the foil and bend it where desired. 14. For a heavy foiled effect, weave from each subsection. For more subtle results, apply to every other section. 15. More than one color may be used. Remember to frequently mix small batches of color, ensuring the proper processing. 16. When checking the processing, make sure to keep foils close to the scalp. If the first sections need removing before the last sections are complete, use a towel and water spray to stop processing action. Or use an antioxidant (product that halts oxidation). 17. Foils need not be removed individually when rinsing. Place the client's head in the shampoo bowl, apply medium temperature and water pressure, and foils will "rinse" from the hair. 18. Shampoo with the appropriate shampoo and conditioner. 19. Style to desired finish. If you use choice (b), just place the straight edge of the foil against the section line at scalp and bend hair strand over it to hold the foil in place as you apply the product. Then simply fold the edge back to the part so the foil bends in half to the scalp.

95 Page 95 of 154 Foil Procedure The foil procedure would follow the same steps as the weave procedure, except for the following: 1. Rather than weaving pieces from each section, the horizontal subsection taken is much smaller, up to 1/16 inch depending on hair density. Color is then applied to

96 Page 96 of 154 the entire subsection, eliminating the weave process. 2. Color is applied to small sections mentioned in # 1, but the uncolored subsections will be taken in 1/8- to I/2-inch partings. 3. You may use one, two, three, or four colors and may also use bleach or a blonding creme mixture. 4. Processing, checking, and removal are identical to the weave procedure. 5. Due to the elimination of the weaving process, the foil technique enables the service to be completed more quickly. However, to ensure correct results extreme care must be taken to maintain very small subsections while applying. As with any other technical service, practice builds speed. So practice, practice, practice! Weave caps: Used most often in highlighting, twilighting, and lowlighting, your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color. Highlighting with a weave cap also helps to camouflage gray or roots growing back after a permanent hair color application. Foiling: Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. Baliage: A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. This dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very personal appearance! It s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques; professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like gray, platinum, and black hair, it s wisest to consult a professional before you try a new hair color technique at home! Caramel-Flaging Technique: Caramel-flaging produces brilliant highlights, lowlights, and shine on gray hair with a diffused regrowth line and low maintenance. 1. Divide hair in three sections. Then divide sections ear to ear.

97 Page 97 of On 30% to 75% gray hair use three formulas: a. Formula # 1 is two to four levels lighter than natural base color with 30 or 40 volume developer May use high lift color or lightening formula such as Blazing Hair. b. Formula #2 is at the same level or one level lighter as the base color in golden or red-brown tone with 20 volume developer. c. Formula #3 is at the same level as the base color or one level darker in a natural tone with I 0 or 20 volume developer. 3. Using tiny slices (1/6 inch) and the foiling technique, apply color to all the hair. 4. On the top third of the head, apply Formula # I alternating with Formula #2 and #3, Example: # I, #2, # I, #3, # I, #2, # I, #3 so there are more of # I.

98 Page 98 of On the middle third of the head, apply even amounts of all three colors. 6. On the lower third of the head, apply Formula #3 alternating with #2. Use # I with the first alternation only Use #2 (base color) at all hairline areas and scalp to ensure 100% coverage. 7. Process I 0 to 20 minutes until desired tones are achieved. 8. Remove foils; shampoo and condition. HAIR COLORING IDEAS

99 Page 99 of 154 Hair Coloring Forecasts Expert beauty consultants predict that the trend in hair colors is moving away from dramatic color and back towards more natural colors and highlighting techniques. Yet, not everyone wants to blend into the crowd. Make your personality your first consideration in choosing a hair color or hair coloring technique that s a perfect fit for you. Are you sweet or saucy? Do you like to stay in style with the season or are you a rebel? Are you after the avant-garde or do you prefer traditional hair colors and techniques? Are you comfortable in the spotlight or would you rather sit in the audience? What hair color or technique really catches your eye and do you want to be caught up in it? Sweet and Saucy Highlight straight dark hair with a top layer of light-colored curls or curls in untraditional colors. Reverse the colors for a bolder, saucier look. Seasonal Hair Color Changes Fall and spring seem to be the most frequent times for hair color changes. In the autumn, we often make a change in hair color or style to forestall the winter doldrums. Then, the very freshness of spring encourages us to recreate a new image for ourselves. Although we like to blame the sun for fading hair colors, as well as summer sun-fade, hard water and harsh hair care products can dull hair color over fall and winter. Spring is a great time to highlight hair with low-lights. Low-lights darken sections of your hair and make natural hair highlights sparkle in the summer sun. Keeping Hair Color in Character In the movie Steel Magnolias, Sally Fields remarks that her hair looks like a football helmet. If you re wearing a helmet, put some kick into your simple do with hair color spice that compliments your skin tone and brings out the best in your facial features. Foiling with three or four tones adds dimension to simple hairstyles. Blend a rich color like eggplant, burgundy, or bright red with lighter hair coloring highlights to effect a dramatic change without being overly emotive. Hair Color in the Spotlight One-tone hair colors are making a comeback. When you want to make a striking change, consider coloring your hair jet black, going platinum, becoming a real redhead, or really going for the gold, bronze, silver, blue etc.

100 Page 100 of 154 If you re not ready to plunge whole head into color, add a flash of color up front with bold colored bangs or make your personal color statement with just a tone or two to give your hair a hint of extraordinary color. Deeper colors add sizzle to dark hair and blonde colors, from ash to honey, add fire to lighter colored hair. Whatever hair color trends catch your eye, the diversity in modern hair colors and hair coloring techniques leave you with plenty of hair color ideas to shape your hairstyle and your image. Tips for at Home Hair Coloring When time or money doesn t allow you the pampering of salon color, you ll find that at home hair coloring preparations are both affordable and easy to use. Be prepared. 1. Start healthy: Deep condition your hair. Then wait a couple of days after shampooing to give the natural oils in your scalp time to resurface. They ll help protect your skin from chemical reactions, help your hair color to set better, and give you more uniform results overall. 2. Put your toolkit together. Wear an old t-shirt and gather up some older towels and washcloths that you won t miss if they get stained. Include some hair clips for sectioning your hair, have a timer handy and find a hand mirror so that you can see the back of your head. 3. While you wait, take some time to getting to know the density of your hair. Practice sectioning before you have to handle your hair in one hand and an applicator bottle in the other! Give a natural boost to hair color go organic! Hair Color Espresso Perk up black or brown hair with a strong cup of dark grind coffee or espresso. Brew, cool and add it to your dry hair. Shampoo after 30 minutes. Nuts about Hair Color Add sparkle to dark hair with walnuts. Boil one cup of chopped walnuts with one cup of water. Cool, strain, and pour it on! Shampoo after 30 minutes. Hair Color to a Tea To add highlights to dark hair, brew a cup of strong dark tea and use it as a final rinse after shampooing. Spray or comb a cup of strong chamomile tea into blond or light brown hair. Leave on for twenty minutes, shampoo and rinse. Put Some Punch in Your Hair Color with Fruit Juices Of course, you probably know that lemon juice lightens, but did you know that using ½ cup of cranberry juice as a final rinse will give a lift to red hair and add subtle red highlights to dark hair?

101 Page 101 of 154 * Even when coloring hair with these organics, always remember the color wheel. When coloring hair, opposites don t attract they neutralize each other. Special Hair Coloring Tips for Long Hair, Gray Hair, Natural Curls and Waves Long hair: Four hands are better than two when coloring long hair. Get a friend to help you with at home hair color. The ends of long hair are more porous than the rest of the hair shaft. In addition, because your body s natural heat works to speed up the process of hair coloring, start color application in the mid-lengths of long hair and work the color up to the roots and down to ends. If your hair is thick as well as long, because of process time, it may be best to color it in sections. Natural curls and waves: Experts generally advise against using permanent hair color on naturally curly or wavy hair. Any type of chemical treatment can impact natural curly or wavy hair. If your hair is already dry because of straightening or relaxing, the addition of more chemicals can result in worse damage. In addition, semi-permanent colors give you richer color that won t fade like permanent color does. Gray Hair: Hair turns gray or white when the hair shafts lose pigment. These shafts tend to be coarser and less porous, making it more difficult to set hair color. Before coloring, soften gray hair with a special softening shampoo or developer. Choose a color at least one shade darker than your expected result. Keep the hair color on your hair for at least 35 minutes. Healthy Hair Hair Coloring Tips Shampoo that s made for color treated hair keeps your hair color soft and natural looking. Regular shampoos can strip color and natural moisture from your hair. Install a water filter for your shower or bath. Besides frequently being treated with chemicals, tap water coming through old plumbing contains undesirable elements like rust that leave your new hair color flat and dull looking. Deep condition regularly at least every two weeks to restore moisture and shine to color treated hair. As roots grow out, a color enhancing conditioner will help your natural hair color blend with your color treated hair. After shampooing, always blot your hair dry. Don t rub hair dry or wrap it in a tight turban. When using a blow dryer, dry your head not your hair. Over drying hair strips it of moisture and also results in static.

102 Page 102 of 154 Never use a brush on wet hair. Work through tangles with a wide tooth comb, starting with the ends and moving to your scalp. Conditioners that you leave in your hair often contain sunscreen and help protect your hair color from fading. Wetting your hair with bottled spring water helps to shield it from the harsh swimming pool chemicals. Roots grow out and hair color fades with time. Sometimes we re just tired of our hair color and want to get back to natural, but sometimes we're met with a hair color calamity. Whatever our reasons for hair color removal, where there s a will, today there is a way to return to normal hair color. First, if your hair color is over three days old, chances are you won t be able to remove it. Your best option is to find a professional skilled in different hair coloring techniques. Besides highlighting drab hair colors, your stylist can darken too-light hair colors and offset hair color mistakes. If you ve experienced a hair color catastrophe in the last day or two, if you re prompt, the damage can probably either be minimized or completely reversed. Generally, hair color takes from 48 to 72 hours to set into the cuticle. However, because this window is so brief, before you begin experimenting with hair color removal, consult with a professional stylist. In addition: 1. Even if your hair color problems are self-inflicted, good professionals are usually familiar with consumer hair products and are best equipped to use the right hair color removal methods. Depending on the product you used and the severity of the problem, your stylist can remove, offset, or blend hair colors to repair the damage. 2. If your stylist made the mistake, she knows exactly what product she used and has a better idea than anyone else as to what went wrong. Most professionals will do everything they can to keep your business and their good reputation. No stylist wants to be known as the one who turned Judy s hair green! 3. Unless you caused the problem, most professionals will make corrections at no extra cost. Just be sure to ask if they ll make it right before you make an appointment for hair color removal. If they expect to impose an additional charge, you ll be able to choose another option. A Note on Hair Color Removal

103 Page 103 of 154 Hair Color Removal, commonly known as color correction, is a process used to rid the hair of unwanted color. Certain hair colors such as black, red, blue, purple and dark browns often can cause problems for a person seeking to change his or her hair color back to the original color. Procedure Hair stripping is similar to bleaching the hair, except that more intense products are used. The bleaching product raises sulfite levels and makes the hair more porous. This allows all of the color in the hair to be removed. After this process, the hair usually becomes a very ashy blonde color or often auburn. Other dyes may then be added to the hair. Disadvantages Some people believe that the process is excessively dangerous, because the substance eats away at the cortex and the cuticle of the hair, which then absorbs the color from the medulla (or hair center). This is very dangerous and the hair may undergo some very serious problems such as dryness, breaking, porosity and other serious problems. After hair stripping, the hair must be conditioned excessively. There are many products available for colour stripping but the safest way is to visit a hairdresser. Home Hair Color Removal Quick Fixes The only way to remove permanent hair color is with a color removal product. Depending on the color that you selected, you may be able to cover the permanent color with a semi or demi-color. Enlist the advice of the color manufacturer before you start experimenting with different coverage shades or you could wind up with the color of mud. If your visions of Pamela Lee blonde turned to Carrot Top orange, only a color expert can safely get you back to a safe color zone. The same is true for purple, pink, blue or some green. Some chlorine enhanced greens can be removed with a special chlorine removal shampoo. When all else fails, try the tomato juice soak. The red in the juice will neutralize the green in many cases. Many people have color disasters with henna. Not only does henna coat the hair, it is highly unpredictable for some users. If a horrid shade of henna is haunting you, reach for good old fashioned mineral oil. To lessen or even remove henna from the hair:

104 Page 104 of Saturate hair strands with a mixture of 70% alcohol applied with sterile cotton balls. Avoid the scalp area. 2. Follow 5-10 minutes later with a coating of mineral oil. Apply the mineral oil on top of the 70% alcohol. Avoid the scalp area. 3. Cover your new oily head with Saran or similar plastic. A plastic shower cap will also work well. 4. Sit under a hood dryer for minutes. If you don't have a hood dryer, direct a heat concentrator towards the hair from your blow dryer. 5. To remove the oil apply a little shampoo to the palms of your hands and then pat on the oil BEFORE you apply water. After you have applied the shampoo to the oil areas, turn on the shower and lather. Use a good cleansing or clarifying shampoo. You may need to shampoo more than once to remove all the oil and the henna. If necessary, repeat as needed. 6. Once you have removed the henna, be sure to perform deep conditioning treatments to restore moisture to the hair.when in doubt about henna, don't do it. Take your time and do lots of research to be sure you are on the right track to desired color results. Here are some other ways to recover from the horrors of bad color: 1. Time heals all hair color wounds Although you may hate your new color, if neither home nor professional correction are an option, consider going shorter with a new style that will allow you to outgrow the color quickly. Ask your stylist to help you select a style that minimizes any new roots or growth. Give yourself some time to let the color fade naturally away. 2. Heat to fade Hot water is notorious for fading chemically colored hair. Some volume shampoos and gels like Matrix Amplify and related products may also help fade color faster because it is designed to blow open the hair cuticle which sometimes accelerates hair color loss. Hot extra virgin olive oil and some commercial oil treatments will also help to strip chemically applied color. An old trick of colorists is to shampoo with Prell shampoo which is known for its color striping talents. Don t assume that it will remove your unwanted hues. It will help fade your color which may or may not be a good thing. While this may or may not be a good option for quickly moving past unwanted temporary or demi-perm colors, it may actually accentuate a bad shade on permanently applied color. 3. Make lemonade out of lemons

105 Page 105 of 154 Yes, I know it sounds sappy, but I really believe that when life gives you lemons, you can have fun making lemonade. Being positive really helps in any bad situation, including sporting a head of pink and purple hues when you wanted cookies and cream.. Not only does positive thinking and actions make you feel better, it gives you the opportunity to learn new ways to appreciate your hair. Set aside some private time, drag out all your hair styling tools and play with some new looks that can help you pass the time while your horrible hue grows out. Styling products like volume enhancing mousse or extra strength gel can work wonders on instantly changing limp locks into luscious fat locks. A good straightening or defrisant balm can remove the frizzes for a smooth, sleek shiny cap and help you to forget that it just happens to be slightly orange.experiment with hot rollers or styling irons to achieve a different texture and movement. 4. Vitamins No, hair vitamins will not instantly help you outgrow a bad dye job. However, it will help maximize your genetic hair growth rate and to help you grow super healthy new strands and leave bad color behind. 5. Accessorize Use hair clips, barrettes, jeweled hairpins and headbands to camouflage uneven color. Grab the latest fashion headgear as a last resort and only if you really must. 6. Get out of the house Avoid the temptation to let your bad hair color experience prevent you from enjoying your life. Don't pass up a special social event just because your hair looks less than perfect. Spend some time before the event practicing some cool ways to equalize your color challenged hair. Sometimes color shampoos will help soften the blow of bad colors. No, it won't change them, but it might make you feel better. Then go out and enjoy yourself. 7. Offer to be a hair model If you can't afford color correction services you may want to call around to the local cosmetology colleges to see if they need a model to teach color correction on. Although it's a long shot, you never know when a school may want to use your head to teach their students what can happen with bad hair color results. 8. Once burned

106 Page 106 of 154 Surviving one really bad hair color experience should help you avoid them in the future. Always make sure that you have a pre-color consultation with your stylist and that you believe you are both on the same hair page. Take photos of your desired hues since stylists work well with a visual view to guide them. Once the color begins, watch carefully. If you think the color process is going wrong, instantly stop the process. If your head or scalp starts to sting or burn speak up immediately. Remember, it is your hair and you have to live with it. Don't be shy, speak up and leave if you must. If your hair color problem resulted from an at-home application, start looking for help from the maker. Most major manufacturers have a consumer help line. You ll find the phone number either on the box or in the instructions pamphlet. Oh sure! It s evening, the help line closed at 5 p.m., and you work at 7 a.m.! 1. Almost too simple to be true, but hot water sometimes fades chemical hair colors. 2. Volume shampoos and gels are often designed to blow open the hair cuticle. Although they won t completely remove hair color, they may speed up the process. 3. Hot extra-virgin olive oil also may help strip chemical colors. However, do be careful. You don t want to soak your head in boiling oil! 4. Get out the scissors. A short cut can minimize hair color problems. Your stylist can suggest one that will camouflage old color with new hair growth. 5. Put on a scarf and head to the nearest open-all-night super-store. o The red in tomato juice may help neutralize green hair color. o If your hair color came from a product that was chlorine enhanced, a special chlorine removal shampoo may help tone it down. o A couple of hair color removal products are worth considering: o One n Only Colorfix Made to remove permanent hair color and may even be used to correct color in specific areas. o Clairol The Uncolor System Haircolor Remover A semi-permanent hair color remover that Clairol says is gentle, quick, and easy. Tips for successful hair color removal: 1. Always strand test before you try any hair color removal 2. Deep conditioning with a low ph conditioner after hair color removal helps protect your hair as well as return it to natural softness and shine.

107 Page 107 of Remember to protect your clothing from hair color removal products. Even tomato juice can leave a nasty stain! 4. Precisely follow the directions on all hair color removal products. 5. Do not use hair color removal products on henna. Henna is unpredictable and can leave you with unusual results! 6. Keep hair color removal products away from your eyes. Don t ever use them on lashes or brows. 7. Don t use bleach for hair color removal. Bleach helps artificial colors penetrate deeper into the hair shaft and weakens the hair shaft, causing even more damage. Summary of Hair Color Chemistry Haircoloring: Bleaching The first safe commercial haircolor was created in 1909 by French chemist Eugene Schuller, using the chemical paraphenylenediamine. Hair coloring is very popular today, with over 75% of women coloring their hair and a growing percentage of men following suit. How does haircolor work? It's the result of a series of chemical reactions between the molecules in hair, pigments, as well as peroxide and ammonia, if present. Hair Color, is a chemical tool that is used to change the color of a person's hair. Hair dye is used mostly to change gray hair, since gray hair is a sign of an advanced age. Younger people that used hair dye use it as a fashion statement or simply because they want to change their hair color. The Romans have been known to be interested in changing hair color and history revealed that they created over a hundred recipes that are made out of natural ingredients but unfortunately it could only darken hair. In Renaissance time, blonde was a popular choice because it was considered to be angelic and attractive. In 1907, Eugene Schueller, the founder of L'Oreal, created the first synthetic hair dye, but it wasn't widely sold. There have been concerns about hair dye and scientists are trying to find out if there is a link between hair color and cancer. What is Hair? Hair is mainly keratin, the same protein found in skin and fingernails. The natural color of hair depends on the ratio and quantities of two other proteins, eumelanin and

108 Page 108 of 154 phaeomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown to black hair shades while phaeomelanin is responsible for golden blond, ginger, and red colors. The absence of either type of melanin produces white/gray hair. Natural Colorants People have been coloring their hair for thousands of years using plants and minerals. Some of these natural agents contain pigments (e.g., henna, black walnut shells) and others contain natural bleaching agents or cause reactions that change the color of hair (e.g., vinegar). Natural pigments generally work by coating the hair shaft with color. Some natural colorants last through several shampoos, but they aren't necessarily safer or gentler than modern formulations. It's difficult to get consistent results using natural colorants, plus some people are allergic to the ingredients. Temporary Hair Color Temporary or semi-permanent haircolors may deposit acidic dyes onto the outside of the hair shaft or may consist of small pigment molecules that can slip inside the hair shaft, using a small amount of peroxide or none at all. In some cases, a collection of several colorant molecules enter the hair to form a larger complex inside the hair shaft. Shampooing will eventually dislodge temporary hair color. These products don't contain ammonia, meaning the hair shaft isn't opened up during processing and the hair's natural color is retained once the product washes out. How Lightening Works Bleach is used to lighten hair. The bleach reacts with the melanin in hair, removing the color in an irreversible chemical reaction. The bleach oxidizes the melanin molecule. The melanin is still present, but the oxidized molecule is colorless. However, bleached hair tends to have a pale yellow tint. The yellow color is the natural color of keratin, the structural protein in hair. Also, bleach reacts more readily with the dark eumelanin pigment than with the phaeomelanin, so some gold or red residual color may remain after lightening. Hydrogen peroxide is one of the most common lightening agents. The peroxide is used in an alkaline solution, which opens the hair shaft to allow the peroxide to react with the melanin. Permanent Hair Color The outer layer of the hair shaft, its cuticle, must be opened before permanent color can be deposited into the hair. Once the cuticle is open, the dye reacts with the inner portion of the hair, the cortex, to deposit or remove the color. Most permanent hair colors use a two-step process (usually occurring simultaneously) which first removes the original color of the hair and then deposits a new color. It's essentially the same process as

109 Page 109 of 154 lightening, except a colorant is then bonded within the hair shaft. Ammonia is the alkaline chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide. Peroxide is used as the developer or oxidizing agent. The developer removes preexisting color. Peroxide breaks chemical bonds in hair, releasing sulfur, which accounts for the characteristic odor of haircolor. As the melanin is decolorized, a new permanent color is bonded to the hair cortex. Various types of alcohols and conditioners may also be present in hair color. The conditioners close the cuticle after coloring to seal in and protect the new color. A hairdresser is applying a chemical treatment to color a client's hair. Bleaching, lightening, or de-coloring (removing pigment) hair can be achieved by using natural sunlight or chemicals designed specifically for this purpose. Using sunlight alone, the results achieved will depend on the natural color of the hair. Visible results can take several weeks or months. If the natural hair color is darker than a medium blonde, the most successful way to lighten the hair is using hydrogen peroxide and an ammonia-based hair lightener.

110 Page 110 of 154 In order to understand how the process of chemically lightening hair works, it is important to understand the structure of a shaft of human hair. Figure 1, below (from a scientific article on the biochemistry of human skin by Desmond Tobin, Ph.D.), illustrates the microscopic structure of a human hair. The left-hand panel of the illustration (Figure 1a), is a cartoon of a human hair shaft with a cut-away view to show the inner structure. Each strand of hair has an outer layer of flattened cuticle cells (Cu), which surround the fibrous cortical cells (Co). The medulla (Md) is a central core of cells in the hair shaft. Also shown is a micro fibril (MF) within a cortical cell. The middle panel (Figure 1b), shows an actual hair shaft under the microscope. You can see how the flattened cuticle cells (Cu) have a scale-like appearance when magnified. The dark central medulla (Md) is also visible. The right-hand panel (Figure 1c), shows a cross-section of a fine human hair. Here you can see that the cuticle cells (Cu) are highly flattened, and wrap around the cortical cells (Co) in many layers. The cortical cells contain the dark pigment granules that give each hair strand its natural color (Tobin, 2006). Figure 1. Microscopic structure of a human hair shaft. Part (a) shows a cutaway cartoon of a single hair shaft. The labels show cuticle cells (Cu), cortical cells (Co), the medulla (Md), and a micro fibril (MF) within a cortical cell. Part (b) shows a transmitted light micrograph of a single hair strand. The scale-like layer of cuticle cells (Cu) is clearly visible, as is the central medulla (Md). Part (c) shows a cross-section of a fine hair strand. The flattened cuticle cells (Cu) wrap tightly around the cortical cells (Co), which contain many dark pigment granules (Tobin, 2006). The predominant proteins in hair are from the family of keratins, the same family of proteins that make your fingernails. Protein molecules are built from amino acids. In a hair strand, the keratin molecules contain a large number of a particular amino acid called cysteine. Each cysteine in the keratin molecule is a potential attachment point, where the keratin molecule can be tightly connected to another cysteine, forming a

111 Page 111 of 154 chemical bond called a cross-link. The keratins in hair have many such cross-links, making a hair strand strong and flexible. If you are interested in finding out about how hair grows, you should do research on hair follicles, the specialized structure in the skin that produces each individual hair strand. The cuticle cells also have a coating of specialized molecules that repel water. These molecules are called lipids. By repelling water, the lipid molecules help to protect the hair strand. In order for bleaching chemicals to reach the pigment molecules in the cortical cells, the cuticle layer (including its protective lipid coating) must first be opened up. In chemical lightening solutions, this opening is accomplished by making the solution basic. You should do background research on the ph scale, to learn about basic, neutral, and acidic solutions. See the Bibliography for resources to get started. The hair pigment goes through different stages of changing color as it lightens. The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has and the length of time the hair is exposed to the lightening chemicals. Lightening can be divided into roughly seven stages from the darkest to the lightest. A natural head of black hair will go from black to brown, to red, to red-gold, to gold, to yellow, and finally to pale yellow (almost white). The hair also becomes more porous (increasing the hair's capacity to absorb liquids) during the lightening treatment. Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) is an oxidizing chemical that bleaches the natural pigments in human hair. For hair treatment, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide is often expressed in volumes, referring to the total volume of oxygen (at standard temperature and pressure) that can be produced from the hydrogen peroxide. A "10 volume" solution is equivalent to 3% hydrogen peroxide in water (weight/volume, i.e., 3 grams of H 2 O 2 plus enough water to make a total volume of 100 ml). A "20 volume" solution is equivalent to 6% hydrogen peroxide, etc. (Wikipedia contributors, 2006). The higher the concentration of peroxide used the greater the breakdown of melanin (tiny grains of pigment which create natural hair color) resulting in a lighter color. Hair lighteners are available for use in liquid, cream, and powder form. By mixing a chosen concentration of hydrogen peroxide and a lightener, then applying the mixture to natural hair, we can achieve visible lightening of selected pieces of human hair. In this experiment, you will compare the results of lightening hair with a commercial product to untreated hair, and to hair treated with a "natural" hair lightener such as lemon juice or sunlight. The first safe commercial haircolor was created in 1909 by French chemist Eugene Schuller, using the chemical paraphenylenediamine. Hair coloring is very popular today, with over 75% of women coloring their hair and a growing percentage of men following suit. How does haircolor work? It's the result of a series of chemical reactions between the molecules in hair, pigments, as well as peroxide and ammonia, if present.

112 Page 112 of 154 Hair Color and Pregnancy Cautions and Alternatives Hair color and pregnancy raises very real concerns for expectant mothers. Is it okay to color your hair when you're with child? There is no concrete evidence against hair coloring during pregnancy. Mostly because it hasn't been studied in-depth on humans. Pregnant women (naturally) aren't willing to subject themselves and their unborn children to testing. The research studies that have been conducted on animals show an increased rate of birth defects in fetuses. However, the ratio of chemical to blood is far higher in animals than it would be in humans, so the results are not altogether reliable. In humans, the chemical compounds in hair color are thought to have little or no effect on fetal development. So what's the concern all about? Possible Dangers Following are the major factors that should be considered when weighing the decision about hair color and pregnancy... Chemicals and Skin Contact Permanent and semi-permanent color (either drugstore or professional brands) contain a chemical called Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD). It's essentially a darkening agent -- upon exposure to oxygen, it "oxidizes" and darkens the hue. The darker the color, the more of this chemical it contains. PPD is considered a contact allergen and a mild carcinogen. Couple this with the fact that it is easily absorbed through the skin and the concern over use of hair dyes is understandable. Because some people are particularly sensitive to PPD, I would recommend that you never color your hair for the first time during pregnancy. Although, people who have colored their hair for years can suddenly develop a sensitivity as well.

113 Page 113 of 154 This is why a patch test is recommended before each haircolor application. However, even a patch test can be unreliable as some people have delayed reactions to PPD. Symptoms can take up to several weeks to become apparent. Inhalation The fumes from haircolor can make pregnant women nauseous. Some salons have exceptionally good ventilation. Some don't. If you're feeling nauseous, get some fresh air. If it's a warm day, sitting outdoors while your hair processes is a great way to avoid inhaling fumes and the sun will help your haircolor process more effectively. If it's not so nice, stand outdoors for short spells and/or ask your stylist to cover your hair with a plastic bag to keep the fumes enclosed. Alternatively, requesting an appointment early in the day can help you avoid exposure to excessive fumes from surrounding clients receiving chemical processes. Alternatives for Hair Coloring and Pregnancy Here are a few ideas that may help quell your concerns about coloring your hair during pregnancy... Timing Many doctors advise waiting until the end of the first trimester to color. By that time, the baby has reached important neurological and organ development milestones and the fetus is considered less fragile. Products and Application Options There are several things that you can do to minimize any ill-effects as a result of mixing hair color and pregnancy... Using "vegetable dyes" (including some products sold as "natural" Henna's) is considered by some a safe alternative. However, you should know that many of these so-called "natural" color formulations may contain metallic dye components (i.e., lead, copper, etc) and unless you're buying a 100% natural henna powder from a reputable merchant, there's a chance your "vegetable dye" could contain PPD as well. Even if you're covering grey hair, lowlights can be applied with foil. You or your stylist can weave out the greyest strands and color them inside of a foil.

114 Page 114 of 154 Another option is to have your stylist use a silicone highlighting cap. Depending on the results you're after, s/he can either pull a small percentage of hair through the holes for a highlight or lowlight effect, or pull a larger percentage of hair through for more coverage. The silicone cap will act as a barrier between your scalp and the haircolor formula. If you're coloring your own hair at home, ensure that you have sufficient ventilation and wear gloves to keep the formula off of your hands (which should be done whether you're pregnant or not). Also, have someone inspect your scalp before coloring to ensure that you don't have any open sores. If you do, wait until they're healed to apply color. Unpredictable Results The hormonal changes that come with pregnancy can alter the results you get from your hair color. Lighteners may not be as effective and tones may not adhere properly. Or, your hair may color more easily than in the past. So be sure to keep a close eye on your hair as it processes. The Bottom Line Ultimately, the decision of whether to color hair during pregnancy is your client's personal decision. Salon Business Management and Strategies The amount of capital needed to start a salon or spa business will vary depending on the type of services you will offer, the salon and spa equipment required, the basic fixtures and administrative equipment required, the opening inventory of products you will offer, and deposits for rent and utilities. Salon Business Plan A Salon Business Plan will help you to understand why you need to write one. It will put you steps ahead of people that try to start a business without putting together a plan. Your Salon Business Plan will help you to start a Salon Business that will make it through the good and the bad times. Writing a Salon Business Plan is one of the first things you should do if you are planning on starting your own Salon business. This type of business can be one of the most rewarding types of businesses to start because of the personal involvement you can have with this business. You can be a part of just about every

115 Page 115 of 154 aspect of your Salon Business, and writing your Salon Business Plan will help you Salon business to grow. You can look over the operations of the whole business... Or you can simply hire someone else to take care of these tasks for you... Whether you plan on starting a beauty salon business, a tanning salon business, a nail salon business or any type of salon business, a salon business plan will untimely help you get things going in the right direction... The day to day operations of your Salon Business can be overwhelming, if you don't have some type of system. Salon Business Plan System A Salon Business Plan System is what makes a business run in an expedient manner. You will need to create a Salon Business Plan System that will work for your Salon Business. A Salon Business Plan System is the way you operate your business. This system should include a plan of operation for every aspect of your Salon Business. The First System The first part of your Salon Business Plan System should include how you will run the day to day operations of your Salon Business. The Second System The second part should include all of the equipment you will need to operate your Salon Business. This part should also include the day to day operations and the maintenance that should be done on your equipment. This part should also include the preventive maintenance on this equipment as well. The Third System The third part of your Salon Business Plan System should include your Salon Business menu of services. This is the products and/or services that you will supply to your customers. The Fourth System

116 Page 116 of 154 The fourth part of your Salon Business Plan System will be about the way you will deliver your services to your customers. Are you going to have workers to serve your customers? Are you going to do it yourself? Or are you going to have both? The Fifth System The fifth part of your Salon Business Plan System is that, you are going to have to figure out how you are going to pay for your Salon Business. Are you going to self finance it or are you going to borrow the money from your friends and family? Or are you going to use your credit cards? Are you going to obtain financing from a bank? The Sixth System The sixth part of your Salon Business Plan System is figuring out where your Salon Business will be located. Are you going to rent or lease a business location? Are you going to buy a building for your business? Before you actually start your Salon Business, it is best that you take time to figure out if this is the type of business for you and your future. Starting a business can be hard work. But chances are once it is successful all of the initial planning will all have been worthwhile. Writing your own Salon Business Plan will help you understand why you want to be in business for yourself. It will also help you to be one step ahead on your business planning. If you don't take care of your business, who do you think will do it for you? Hair and Beauty Salon Business Plan (Example) Here is an example of how a detailed business plan should look. Imaginary Hair Salon Executive Summary

117 Page 117 of 154 Executive Summary Imaginary Hair Salon is a full-service beauty salon dedicated to providing excellent service, quality products, and furnishing an enjoyable atmosphere at an acceptable price/value relationship. Our goal is to create an inviting atmosphere. Our Mission: To provide great customer service and a relaxing atmosphere. Our Motto: We can achieve what you imagine. The timing is right for starting this new business adventure. After searching for ten months for the perfect location, I finally found the perfect location. The demand of highly professional and qualified beauticians has made this business one of great potential. To achieve our objectives, Imaginary Hair Salon is seeking additional loan financing. This loan will be paid from the cash flow from the business, and will be collateralized by the assets of the company, and backed by the character, experience, and personal guarantees of the owners. To achieve our objectives, Imaginary Hair Salon is seeking additional financing. This loan will be paid from the cash flow from the business. 1.1 Keys to Success The keys to success in our business are: Location: providing an easily accessible location for customers.

118 Page 118 of 154 Environment: providing an environment conducive to giving relaxing and professional service. Convenience: offering clients a wide range of services in one setting, and extended business hours. Reputation: reputation of the owner and other "beauticians" as providing superior personal service. Company Summary Imaginary Hair Salon will sell a wide range of beauty services and products. What will set Imaginary Hair Salon apart from the competition is our excellent customer in an upscale and convenient location. The salon will be located in a great area. It is easily accessible. 2.1 Start-up Summary After spending several months searching for a salon to purchase, the decision was made to start a salon from the ground up. The start-up capital will be used for the design, leasehold improvements, and equipment of the salon. Leasehold improvements will amount to approximately $32,500, and salon equipment will cost about $27,000. The owner will invest $500 for cash-on-hand at starting date. Start-up

119 Page 119 of 154 Requirements Start-up Expenses Rent deposit $1,817 Other $0 Total Start-up Expenses $1,817 Start-up Assets Cash Required $500 Other Current Assets $600 Long-term Assets $59,500 Total Assets $60,600 Total Requirements $62,417 Start-up Funding Start-up Expenses to Fund $1,817 Start-up Assets to Fund $60,600 Total Funding Required $62,417 Assets Non-cash Assets from Start-up $60,100 Cash Requirements from Start-up $500 Additional Cash Raised $0 Cash Balance on Starting Date $500

120 Page 120 of 154 Total Assets $60,600 Liabilities and Capital Liabilities Current Borrowing $0 Long-term Liabilities $61,917 Accounts Payable (Outstanding Bills) $0 Other Current Liabilities (interest-free) $0 Total Liabilities $61,917 Capital Planned Investment Owner $500 Investor $0 Additional Investment Requirement $0 Total Planned Investment $500 Loss at Start-up (Start-up Expenses) ($1,817) Total Capital ($1,317) Total Capital and Liabilities $60,600

121 Page 121 of 154 Total Funding $62,417 Products and Services Imaginary Salon is considered an upscale full-service beauty salon. We will offer a wide range of services that include: Hair: cuts, relaxers, perms, colors, shampoo, conditioning, curling, reconstructing, weaving, and waving. Nails: manicures, pedicures, polish, sculptured nails. Skin Care: European facials, body waxing, massage. Strategy and Implementation Summary Skilled at what we do, good customer service, and creating a pleasant environment for our customers will be important to implementing our business plan. 4.1 Competitive Edge Imaginary Hair Salon wants to set itself apart from other beauty salons that may offer only one or two types of services. The manager has realized, from talking with her clients that they would prefer to have all of their service rendered at one place. Although the focus of Imaginary Salon is hair services, we do wish to offer our clients the convenience of these other services in one location. 4.2 Marketing Strategy Our marketing strategy is a simple one: We can achieve what you imagine. No major advertising campaigns are anticipated. Our research has shown that word of mouth is the best advertising for this type of business. We will, however, run specials throughout the week. We will also ask clients for referrals, and reward them with discounted or free services depending on the number of clients they bring. We will also offer discounts to the new clients who have been referred. 4.3 Sales Forecast The following table and charts show our projected sales. We expect income to increase steadily over the next three years, as the reputation of the salon, its stylists and services become apparent to the general public. Second year revenues also anticipate the addition of one new stylist.

122 Page 122 of 154 Note that we list no direct cost of sales here for services, only for products, since our service costs are more accurately tracked as regular monthly expenses for supplies in the Profit and Loss table. Sales Forecast Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Sales Owner $49,600 $57,040 $65,696 Stylist #1 $49,600 $57,040 $65,596 Barber #1 $16,800 $19,320 $22,218 Stylist #2 $22,800 $25,622 $29,465 Stylist #3 $0 $22,000 $24,000 Nails and massage $18,000 $20,000 $22,000 Product sales $9,600 $10,000 $11,000 Total Sales $166,400 $211,022 $239,975 Direct Cost of Sales Year 1 Year 2 Year 3

123 Page 123 of 154 Product Costs $4,320 $4,300 $4,400 Other $0 $0 $0 Subtotal Direct Cost of Sales $4,320 $4,300 $4, Milestones Sample Milestones topic text. The milestones table and chart show the specific detail about actual program activities that should be taking place during the year. Each one has its manager, starting date, ending date, and budget. During the year we will be keeping track of implementation against plan, with reports on the timely completion of these activities as planned. Milestones Milestone Start Date End Date Budget Manager Department Sample Milestones 1/4/2008 1/4/2008 $0 ABC Department Finish Business Plan 5/7/2009 6/6/2009 $100 Dude Boss Acquire Financing 5/17/2009 7/6/2009 $200 Dudette Legumers Ah HA! Event 5/27/2009 6/1/2009 $60 Marianne Bosses Ah Merde Alors! Event 6/26/2009 7/1/2009 $250 Marionette Bouc émissaire Grande Opening 7/6/2009 7/11/2009 $500 Gloworm Nobs Marketing Program Starts 6/6/2009 7/1/2009 $1,000 Glower Marketeers

124 Page 124 of 154 Plan vs. Actual Review 11/1/ /8/2009 $0 Galore Alles First Break-even Month 3/5/2010 4/4/2010 $0 Bouys Salers Hire Employees 2/1/2010 3/3/2010 $150 Gulls HRM Upgrade Business Plan Pro 4/22/2010 4/24/2010 $100 Brass Bossies Totals $2,360 Management Summary The Imaginary Hair Salon will be organized and managed in a creative and innovative fashion to generate very high levels of customer satisfaction, and to create a working climate conducive to a high degree of personal development and economic satisfaction for employees. Training classes to help improve employee product knowledge and skills will be conducted on a regular basis. As the business grows, the company will consider offering an employee benefit package to include health and vacation benefits for everyone. 5.1 Personnel Plan The personnel plan calls for a receptionist who will greet customers and receive payments for services and products. There will be five hair stylists, one barber, one nail technician, one facialist, and a massage therapist. Everyone but the receptionist will be contract workers, and will be paid a sliding commission scale based on the amount of revenue created. Future plans include the hiring of a shampoo technician as the business expands. In the first year, assumptions are that there will only be three hair stylists, a barber, and part time nail, facial, and massage technician until the business can build a reputation that will attract others to work there. Personnel Plan Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Owner (Stylist) $24,000 $25,000 $26,000 Receptionist $14,400 $15,120 $15,876 Shampoo Tech $8,000 $12,400 $13,000 Total People 3 3 3

125 Page 125 of 154 Total Payroll $46,400 $52,520 $54,876 Financial Plan Our goal is to be a profitable business beginning in the first month. The business will not have to wait long for clients to learn about it since the stylists will already have an existing client base. To assure the start-up funds lender that the owners are financially stable, a personal financial statement is enclosed illustrating other sources of income that include interest and dividend income from investments ($2,840), salary income ($29,658), and commission income ($15,000). 6.1 Important Assumptions The financials that are enclosed have a number of assumptions: Revenues will grow at an annual rate of 15%, increasing 20% in November and December due to a historical jump in revenues at this time of year. We anticipate this increase to stay steady throughout the following year to account for the normal flow of new clients coming into the salon. Estimates for sales revenue and growth are intentionally low, while anticipated expenses are exaggerated to the high side to illustrate a worst case scenario. We did not use cost of goods sold in our calculations of net service sales, but included all related recurring expenses, such as payroll and supplies, in the operating expenses area of the profit and loss table. The only direct costs in the sales forecast are for projected product sales. Product sales are a minimal part of our market. We are not quite sure how much revenue will be derived from products, so we took a low-ball approach and estimated sales of $800 a month. Also in the sales projections table are services such as nails and massages. We are not quite sure how much revenue these two services will generate. We are certain that in time these services will be a large part of our revenue, but to err on the conservative side, we estimate revenues from these services to be only $1,500 a month for the first year. General Assumptions Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Plan Month Current Interest Rate 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% Long-term Interest Rate 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% Tax Rate 30.00% 30.00% 30.00%

126 Page 126 of 154 Other Projected Cash Flow We expect to manage cash flow over the next three years simply by the growth of the cash flow of the business. The business will generate more than enough cash flow to cover all of its expenses. Pro Forma Cash Flow Cash Received Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Cash from Operations Cash Sales $166,400 $211,022 $239,975 Subtotal Cash from Operations $166,400 $211,022 $239,975 Additional Cash Received Sales Tax, VAT, HST/GST Received $0 $0 $0 New Current Borrowing $0 $0 $0 New Other Liabilities (interest-free) $0 $0 $0 New Long-term Liabilities $0 $0 $0 Sales of Other Current Assets $0 $0 $0

127 Page 127 of 154 Sales of Long-term Assets $0 $0 $0 New Investment Received $0 $0 $0 Subtotal Cash Received $166,400 $211,022 $239,975 Expenditures Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Expenditures from Operations Cash Spending $46,400 $52,520 $54,876 Bill Payments $99,540 $128,730 $147,285 Subtotal Spent on Operations $145,940 $181,250 $202,161 Additional Cash Spent Sales Tax, VAT, HST/GST Paid Out $0 $0 $0 Principal Repayment of Current Borrowing $0 $0 $0 Other Liabilities Principal Repayment $0 $0 $0 Long-term Liabilities Principal Repayment $12,000 $12,000 $12,000 Purchase Other Current Assets $0 $0 $0 Purchase Long-term Assets $0 $0 $0 Dividends $0 $0 $0 Subtotal Cash Spent $157,940 $193,250 $214,161 Net Cash Flow $8,460 $17,772 $25,814 Cash Balance $8,960 $26,733 $52, Break-even Analysis The break-even analysis shows that Imaginary Hair Salon has a good balance of fixed costs and sufficient sales strength to remain healthy. This calculation is focused on service sales, and excludes costs related to product sales. Our conservative forecast shows the

128 Page 128 of 154 salon just passing the break-even point throughout most of the first year, but we expect actual sales to be higher. Break-even Analysis Monthly Revenue Break-even $12,995 Assumptions: Average Percent Variable Cost 3% Estimated Monthly Fixed Cost $12, Projected Profit and Loss The following table shows our very conservative profit and loss projections for the next three years. The table includes the payments for all independently contracted stylists and technicians, as well for all regularly occurring supply expenses associated with service sales.

129 Page 129 of 154 Pro Forma Profit and Loss Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Sales $166,400 $211,022 $239,975 Direct Cost of Sales $4,320 $4,300 $4,400 Other Costs of Sales $0 $0 $0 Total Cost of Sales $4,320 $4,300 $4,400

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