Contents. 4 Skin Creams. 5 Astringents and Skin Tonics Introduction * PART ONE: THE SKIN AND SKIN PRODUCTS

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1 PART ONE: THE SKIN AND SKIN PRODUCTS 1 The Skin Epidermis and keratinizing system Pigmentary system Langerhans cells Dermis Nerves and sense organs Blood vessels Eccrine sweat glands Hair follicles Sebaceous glands Apocrine glands Common disorders of the skin 2 Irritation and Sensitization of the Skin Irritants and inflammation Hypersensitivity and allergy Tests to predict irritation or sensitization 3 Nutrition and Hormonal Control of the Skin Nutrition of the skin Skin conditions related to nutritional deficiency Percutaneous absorption Hormones 4 Skin Creams Classification of skin creams Cleansing creams Night and massage creams Moisturizing, vanishing and foundation creams Pigmented foundation creams Hand creams and hand-and-body creams All-purpose creams 5 Astringents and Skin Tonics *

2 Types of astringent Astringent products 6 Protective Creams and Hand Cleansers Barrier materials-protective creams and gels Hand cleansers, 7 Bath Preparations Foam baths Formulation of foam baths Types of product Product assessment Bath salts Ingredients and formulation Bath oils Floating or spreading oils Dispersible or blooming oils Soluble oils Foaming oils After-bath products Body or dusting powders After-bath emollients 8 Skin Products for Babies Skin problems in babies Functional requirements of baby products Safety of baby products Example formulations Cleansing of nappies (diapers) 9 Skin Products for Young People Adolescent skin problems Products for oily skins Specific treatments for acne 10 Antiperspirants and Deodorants Perspiration and its control Antiperspirant ingredients Evaluation of antiperspirants Mechanism of deodorants and deodorant ingredients Assessment of deodorants

3 vii Product formulation-antiperspirants Product formulation-deodorants : 11 Depilatories Epilation Electrolysis Chemical depilation Facial depilatories for black skin The 'ideal' depilatory Evaluation of depilatory efficacy 12 Shaving Preparations Wet shaving preparations Beard softening cream Lather shaving cream Lather shaving stick Aerosol shaving foams Brushless or non-lathering cream Brushless shaving stick Novel compositions for wet shaving Dry shaving preparations Pre-electric shave lotion Collapsible foam pre-electric shave lotion Pre-electric shave gel stick Pre-electric shave talc stick Pre-electric shave powder After-shave preparations After-shave lotion Quick-break foam after-shave Crackling foam aerosol after-shave lotion After-shave gel After-shave cream and balm After-shave powder 13 Foot Preparations Influence of footwear Foot malodours Foot ailments Foot infections Foot care and hygiene Bathing the feet Foot powders Foot sprays Foot creams Corn and callus preparations Chilblain preparations

4 viii Contents. Athlete's foot preparations Other developments 14 Insect Repellents Repellent materials Formulation 15 Sunscreen, Suntan and Anti-sunburn Preparations Sunlight and the human body Tanning Beneficial effects of sunlight Adverse effects of sunlight Solar radiation and its effect on skin Protective mechanism of the skin Sunscreens and suntan preparations Sunscreen agents Evaluation of sunscreen preparations Formulation of sunscreens Palliative preparations Artificial suntan preparations 16 Skin Lighteners or Bleaches Colour of the skin Chemistry of melanin Mechanism of depigmentation Skin lightening agents and formulations 17 Face Packs and Masks Wax-based systems Rubber-based systems Vinyl-based systems Hydrocolloid-based systems Earth-based systems (argillaceous masks) Anti-wrinkle preparations 18 Face Powders and Make-up Face powder Function and properties Covering power Absorbency Slip Adhesion Bloom Colour

5 Perfume Formulation Manufacture Compact powder Cake make-up Make-up cream Liquid powder Liquid make-up Stick make-up 19 Coloured Make-up Preparations Lipstick Ingredients of lipsticks Example formulations Manufacture of lipsticks Transparent lipsticks Lip salves Liquid lipsticks Rouge Dry rouge (compact rouge) Wax-based rouge Cream rouge Liquid rouge Eye make-up Mascara (eyelash cosmetic) Eyeshadow Eyeliner Eyebrow pencils 20 The Application of Cosmetics Care and cleansing of the skin Cosmetic application PART TWO: THE NAILS AND NAIL PRODUCTS 21 The Nails Biology of the nails Pathology of the nails 22 Manicure Preparations Cuticle remover Nail bleach

6 Con tents Nail cream Nail strengthener Nail white Nail polish Nail lacquer (nail varnish) ~ntroduction Ingredients of nail lacquer Formulation Manufacture of nail lacquer Base coats and top coats Enamel remover Nail drier Plastic fingernails and elongators Nail mending compositions PART THREE: THE HAIR AND HAIR PRODUCTS 23 The Hair The hair follicle Hormonal influences Nutritional influences Chemistry of hair Hair colour Hair disorders Dandruff 24 Shampoos Detergency Evaluation of detergents as shampoo bases Raw materials for shampoos Principal and auxiliary surfactants Additives Formulation of shampoos Clear liquid shampoos Liqu~d cream or lotion shampoos Solid cream and gel shampoos Oil shampoos Powder shampoos Aerosol shampoos Dry shampoos Conditioning shampoos Baby shampoos Anti-dandruff and medicated shampoos Acid-balanced shampoos Safety of shampoos

7 25 Hair Setting Lotions, Sprays and Dressings Use and purpose of hair dressings Women's hair dressings Setting lotions Heated curlers and blow drying Hair sprays Men's hair dressings Formulation Brilliantines Non-oily fixatives Aerosols Emulsions Gels T 26 Hair Tonics and Conditioners Formulation of medicated hair tonics Conditioners Evaluation of conditioning Hair thickeners Rinses I 27 Hair Colorants Hair colouring systems Characteristics of an ideal hair colorant The process of hair colouring Temporary hair dyes Dyestuffs Types of commercial temporary product and their formulation Semi-permanent colorants Dyestuffs Commercial semi-permanent products and their formulation Permanent hair dyes Bases Couplers or modifiers Formation of colours in the hair Toxicity and dangers of para dyes Formulation of permanent hair dyes Other dyes for hair! Aromatic polyhydroxy compounds Vegetable hair dyes Metallic hair dyes Hair dye removers Bleaching and lightening 28 Permanent Waving and Hair Strengtheners Chemistry of hair waving Evaluation of permanent waving

8 xii Contents Hot waving processes Cold waving processes Tepid 'warm air' wave Roller and pin permanent waves Instant permanent waves Perfuming of thioglycollate lotions Toxicity Hair strengthening preparations 29 Hair Straighteners Hot comb method Caustic preparations Chemical hair reducing agents PART FOUR: THE TEETH AND DENTAL PRODUCTS 30 The Tooth and Oral Health The tooth and its surroundings Structure of the tooth Saliva Acquired integuments of the tooth Major problems of oral health Magnitude of the problem Dental caries Periodontal disease Use of prophylactic toothpastes Active ingredients 31 Dentifrices Basic requirements of a dentifrice Toothpastes Basic structure Ingredients Formulation of toothpastes Manufacture of toothpastes Toothpowders Manufacture of toothpowders Solid dentifrice Performance tests Abrasive action Lustre (gloss or polish) The toothbrush and toothbrushing Denture cleansers 32 Mouthwashes Choice of antibacterial agent

9 ... Xlll Flavouring of mouthwashes Aerosol mouth fresheners PART FIVE: PRODUCT INGREDIENTS AND MANUFACTURE 33 Surface-active Agents Classification of surfactants Properties of surface-active agents Selection and use of surface-active agents Biological properties of surface-active agents 34 Humectants Drying out Types of humectant Hygroscopicity Stability of emulsions Safety Skin moisturizing 35 Antiseptics Microbial flora of the body Effects of antibacterial agents on body flora Antibacterial soap bars and other skin degerming preparations Antimicrobial agents commonly used in antiseptic products 36 Preservatives Microbial metabolism Clinical significance of contamination Origins of contamination Microbial growth in products Preservative requirements Factors influencing the effectiveness of preservatives Selection of a preservative Safety aspects Tests for preservative effectiveness Current UK regulations 37 Antioxidants - General autoxidative theory Antioxidants Measurement of oxidation and the assessment of antioxidant efficiency Choice of antioxidant

10 xiv Contents Phenolic antioxidants Non-phenolic antioxidants Photo-deterioration 38 Emulsions Basic principles Stabilization of cosmetic emulsions Other factors affecting the stability of emulsions Practical aspects of emulsifier choice Assessment of emulsion stability Characteristics of emulsions Determination of emulsion type Quality control and emulsion analysis 39 The Manufacture of Cosmetics Mixing-and the manufacture of bulk cosmetic products Solid-solid mixing Manufacture of pigmented powder products Mixing processes involving fluids General principles of fluid mixing Mixing equipment for fluids Solid-liquid mixing Suspension of solids in agitated tanks Liquid-liquid mixing Miscible liquids Immiscible liquids 40 Aerosols The aerosol Containers Valves Propellants Filling of aerosols Types of dispensed aerosol product Two-phase systems 'Three-phase systems Personal care products with alternative propellants Corrosion in aerosol containers Alternative systems Propellant-free dispensing pumps 41 Packaging Principles of packaging Marketing and packaging

11 Technology and components Plastics Metals Laminates Glass Paper and board Printing and decorations Package development and design Technical aspects of design Closures Package testing and compatibility 42 The Use of Water in the Cosmetics Industry Properties and cosmetic uses of water Composition of mains water Water purity requirements for cosmetics Further purification of mains water Distribution systems Good housekeeping 43 Cleanliness, Hygiene and Microbiological Control in Manufacture Sources of contamination Cleaning and disinfection Cleaning staff Equipment cleaning Equipment disinfection Parameters of cleaning, disinfection and rinsing Control of contamination Hazards from personnel Washrooms and toilets Raw materials Storage areas Product packaging Microbiological standards Conclusion Appendix Proprietary Materials Cited in this Book Index