H&B LEVENOL GREEN EMOLLIENT FOR PERSONAL CARE MILD FORMULATIONS MILDNESS IMPROVER EMOLLIENT AND MOISTURIZER THICKENER FOAM BOOSTER

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1 LEVENOL H&B MILDNESS IMPROVER EMOLLIENT AND MOISTURIZER THICKENER FOAM BOOSTER GREEN EMOLLIENT FOR PERSONAL CARE MILD FORMULATIONS KAO SURFACTANTS TECHNOLOGY AT YOUR SERVICE

2 Hair & Body care is a concentrated liquid surfactant for Hair and Body care formulations with emollient, foaming and viscosity building properties. is a glyceryl ester derivative. It is very mild and has emollient, moisturizing, thickening and foam boosting properties, which makes it a very good all-in-one cosurfactant. It also has a good ecotoxicological profile. It is liquid and has no risk/safety warnings, what makes it easy to handle and cold processable. MAIN FEATURES Very mild to skin and eyes Vegetable origin 1% active matter Cold processable Very good eco-toxicological profile Improves thickening effect Good foam performance PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Viscosity (2ºC) ~ 45 cp CMC (25ºC) 23 ppm (ST: 3.5 mn/m) Density (2ºC) ~ 1.5 g/cm 3 Pour Point -2ºC / ºC Polarity Medium Refractive Index ~ 1.33 Glycereth-2 Cocoate O O R x O O R y O O R z x + y + z= 2 R = H or R COˉ R = Coconut chain TECHNICAL DATA Active Matter 1% Appearance (2ºC) Colour (Apha) Odour Transparent liquid 15 max Weak characteristic ph (5% in water) HLB (calculated) 11 approx. is not water-soluble. To obtain completely transparent solutions, it is recommended to use it in a maximum ratio of 2-25% of the anionic active matter, depending on the total hydrophobic ingredients in the formulation. It is stable at a ph range of Kao Chemicals Europe

3 MAIN CHARACTERISTICS It is very common to add emollients to cosmetic formulations in order to improve their sensorial properties. With this addition to cleansing products does not cause any problems regarding viscosity or foam, which is usually the case when using other emollients. combines and perfectly balances its emollient and thickening properties. acts as a high-performing emollient, better than the most widely used glyceryl ester derivatives in the market, while boosting both the viscosity and foam behaviour of the formula. ECO & TOX PROPERTIES Eye Irritation Skin Irritation Skin Sensitisation Acute Oral Toxicity Acute Dermal Toxicity Aerobic Biodegradation Anaerobic Biodegradation Fish Toxicity Daphnia Toxicity Algae Toxicity RSPO Certification Non irritant Non irritant Non sensitizer LD 5 > 2 mg/kg LD 5 > 2 mg/kg Readily biodegradable Biodegradable LC 5 > 1 mg/l EC 5 > 1 mg/l EC 5 > 1 mg/l Available upon request CHARACTERISTICS COMPARISON Emollience Mildness improvement Viscosity Foam creaminess PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Cocoglucoside Cocamide DEA : Worst 4: Best Kao Chemicals Europe 3

4 MAIN PROPERTIES EMOLLIENT & MOISTURIZING EFFECT 1.3 MOISTURIZING EFFECT Rinse-off products - 5-day treatment 1% a.m. SLES / 3% a.m. CAPB / 2% a.m. Emollient Emollients are substances that soften and smooth the skin. They are used to improve its condition, redu cing dryness and scaling. The typical emollients in the market are oils or oil derivatives, with glyceryl ester derivatives being among the most widely used. Although they share the glycerine ester structure, the effectiveness of as a moisturizing agent is much better than those of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate or PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides. This enhanced effect can be seen in both rinse-off and leave-on formulations, as the following in vivo tests show: Relative conductance MARKET EMOLLIENT LEVENOL H&B WATER SOAP emollient effect is greater than typical emollients in the market. Relative Conductance MOISTURIZING EFFECT Leave-on products - 1 application 1% Emollient / 2% Emulsifier Time (h) Water PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 3.5 Ref. C-213 MOISTURIZING CREAM % Glycereth-2 Cocoate 5. KALCOL 685 Cetearyl Alcohol 1. AKYPO RLM 1 Laureth-1 Carboxylic Acid 1. Mineral Oil 8. Isopropyl Myristate 7. Glycerin 5. Additives q.s. Deionized Water Up to 1% SLES : Sodium Laureth Sulfate CAPB : Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4 Kao Chemicals Europe

5 MILDNESS One of the key requirements of a surfactant is that it has to be safe and risk-free for human use. satisfies these demanding needs. All the in vitro methods like the Zein solubilization test, related to skin irritation potential, or the Red Blood Cell test, related to eye irritation, show that is milder than other well-known cosurfactants and, moreover, has a greater mildnessimproving effect on SLES-based products. Zein Values (mgn/1 ml) DERMAL IRRITATION Zein test SLES SLES+CAPB SLES + SLES+APG Better Denaturation Index (%) OCULAR IRRITATION Red Blood Cell test SLES SLES+CAMA SLES + SLES+APG The mildness-improving effect of makes it a very good co-surfactant for SLESbased formulations that need emolliency without compromising viscosity. Better can be considered the ingredient of choice for improving the dermatological compatibility of basic surfactants and it is suitable for extremely mild products. Ref.: C-264 ANIONIC-FREE SHOWER GEL % BETADET S-2 Lauryl Hydroxysultaine 35. BETADET HR Cocamidopropyl Betaine 16. Glycereth-2 Cocoate 1. Additives q.s. Deionized Water Up to 1% SLES : Sodium Laureth Sulfate CAPB : Cocamidopropyl Betaine APG: Coco Glucoside CAMA: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Kao Chemicals Europe 5

6 VISCOSITY BUILDING PROPERTIES Regarding viscosity behaviour in the final formula, performs much better than typical emollients. Viscosity at 2ºC, cp VISCOSITY BEHAVIOUR 1% a.m. SLES / 2% a.m. Emollient % NaCl PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate PEG-6 Caprylic/capric Glycerides The thickening effect of enables formulators to reduce or even avoid the use of other thickeners such as Cocamide DEA, reducing the cost of the formulation, while increasing the level of emolliency. Viscosity at 2ºC, cp VISCOSITY BEHAVIOUR 1% a.m. SLES / 3% a.m. CAPB + 2% a.m. Emollient % NaCl FOAMING ABILITY can be considered a good foam booster and stabilizer, comparable to the most widely used co-surfactants. It improves the creaminess of the foam and makes the product more pleasant during appli cation to the hair or skin. As a non-ionic surfactant, its foaming effect is not affected by water hardness, and it enhances foam even in the presence of oils. Foam Volume (ml) Ref.: C-211 ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO % EMAL 27D Sodium Laureth Sulfate 14. AKYPO FOAM RL 4 Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate 5. DANOX PL-1 Pearling agent 4. Glycereth-2 Cocoate 2.5 EXCEPARL LM-LC Lauryl Lactate 1.5 TETRANYL U Undecylenamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate.5 Zinc Pyrithione (5%) 2. Additives FOAMING BEHAVIOUR 1% a.m. SLES + 2% a.m. co-surfactant, 2ºC, Soil: 1% Spangler sebum t (min) Decyl Glucoside Cocamide DEA SLES q.s. Deionized Water Up to 1% SLES / CAPB PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate + 1% a.m. CDEA PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides + 1% a.m. CDEA SLES : Sodium Laureth Sulfate CDEA : Cocamide DEA CAPB : Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6 Kao Chemicals Europe

7 MAIN PROPERTIES SULFATE-FREE FORMULATIONS is also very useful for adding emolliency to sulfate-free formulations without compromising the viscosity, one of the key drawbacks when working with this kind of product. Good viscosities are easily achieved with LEVENOL H&B in different systems with an anionic surfactant other than SLS/SLES. This is also the case when using AKYPO FOAM RL 4, a Kao Chemicals Europe speciality which is an ether carboxylate with comparable foamability and much better mildness than SLES. Ref. C-276 SULFATE-FREE BATH GEL % AKYPO FOAM RL BETADET HR Additives q.s. Deionized water Up to 1% Even anionic-free formulations with good viscosities are possible using, like the mild shower gel formulation seen on page 5 (C-264). ADDITIONAL PROPERTIES BOOSTING EFFECT ON UV FILTERS Viscosity at 2ºC, cp VISCOSITY BEHAVIOUR 15% a.m. AKYPO FOAM RL 4 / 4,5% a.m. CAPB / 2% a.m. Emollient % NaCl PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate PEG-6 Caprylic/capric Glycerides can solubilize UV filters like other gly ceryl ester derivatives: λmax increased for all the UV sunscreens, meaning that the inclusion of these chemicals in sunscreens improves the SPF efficacy. UV Filters experimentally checked: Octylmethoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 Octyldimethyl PABA The thickening effect of makes it a good choice for sulfate-free formulations. Kao Chemicals Europe 7

8 KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE Enriching lives, in harmony with nature. Kao Corporation, S.A. Puig dels Tudons, 1 E-821 Barberà del Vallès (Barcelona) Spain Tel.: Fax: sales@kao.es Kao Chemicals GmbH Kupferstrasse 1 D Emmerich, Germany Tel.: +49 () Fax: +49 () sales@kaochemicals.de (Edited March 216. EU version) OUR CHEMICALS, YOUR BUSINESS