HOW TO FREEHAND WITH RAZOR OR SCISSORS

Transcription

1 Overview This tutorial teaches the basic techniques needed to freehand with a razor or scissors. The result is a subtle graduated soft shape with loose movement and light internal and external tendrils. Skill Level Beginner Technical Skills Technical Skills: Blow Drying - Body Position - Comb Techniques - Elevation Finger Postition - Graduation - Internal Graduated Layering - Layering Natural Outline - Over-Direction - Razor Cutting - Razoring - Razors - Tension Texturising - With A Fringe Page 1

2 Step 1 Sterilise your cutting tools appropriately with your sterilisation method of choice, such as Barbicide or a UV light and following the manufacturer s instructions Step 2 Each razor service needs a new clean blade. For a professional appearance and reassurance it is a good idea to fit your new blade in front of the client. Step 3 Fit the blade away from the body according to the manufacturer s instructions. Then close and place on the work surface for safety reasons. Step 3 - continued Page 2

3 Step 4 - Razoring Hair Assess texture, density, length and elasticity as well as head and face shape natural movement and growth patterns and apply suitable protective clothing. A triangular section is created from recession to recession to the top of the head. Then from the point on the top of the head to the top of the ear on both sides. Then from crown to nape. Then a final horizontal section from top of the ear across the back. Step 4 - continued Step 4 - continued Step 5 The razor is held with three fingers in the middle and the little finger and thumb on the outside. The small finger rests on the razor bar for stability. Alternatively hold with one finger in the centre and two on the outside dependant on comfort, position of blade and amount of hair. Page 3

4 Step 6 Take a horizontal section in the back, work from the centre out on both sides to achieve an A-line feel. In this instance a soft razored graduated internal shape is built using horizontal sections, elevation to approximately 45 degrees and small strokes to a depth of approximately 2 to 3 cm. This will produce a soft, graduated shape. Step 6 - continued Step 6 - continued Step 7 Ensure the hair is wet and keep wet throughout the razor process. This will prevent the razor from tearing the cuticle layer and facilitates precision. Page 4

5 Step 8 The initial sections are horizontal Step 9 The proceeding sections become slightly diagonal. Step 9 - continued Step 10 Hold the razor at a 45 degree angle when shaping the hair. Hold the hair in a comb or your fingers to create tension. Page 5

6 Step 11 Check the balance. Step 12 Maintain consistent elevation and tension throughout and follow the underneath guide. Step 13 Working up the section, increase the over-direction but maintain the same length of stroke. Visually assess the work. Step 14 Work the top two panels at the back with a more vertical angle incorporating the guide from the underneath, this time using a deeper stroke. Page 6

7 Step 15 As you approach the crown, the tips of the blade weave shorter areas for texture, the removal of weight and a loose length. Step 16 Razors can be used to remove length and bulk from the hair. They can thin out the ends and are exceptionally good at creating textured looks. You have the choice of choosing an open razor, a safety razor or a shaper to create your intended look. Step 17 In the sides a perimeter shape is built which is shorter towards the top of the section to longer, using similar shorter strokes at the back. This achieves a similar graduated line which works down towards the length on top of the ear. Step 17 - continued Page 7

8 Step 17 - continued Step 17 - continued Each section is over-directed to the previous section in the sides. Step 18 When freehanding with scissors you can cut on wet or dry hair. Step 19 It is important that you open and close the blade when freehanding in order to avoid tearing the cuticle layer. Page 8

9 Step 20 Use a thinning technique around the top of the ear to maintain length and define shape. Step 21 As these sections run up the triangular section inside, connect to the length in the back again using a thinning technique to maintain length and reduce weight. The internal shape supports the perimeter lengths. Step 22 The top is worked from a natural parting. Use short strokes through the perimeter with elevation to connect to the sides. Step 22 - continued Page 9

10 Step 23 Use freehand and weaving techniques through the remainder of the top and make visual assessments as you work. Step 24 Take special care when razoring around the nape, ears and eyes. Step 25 Using a razor on the skin and around a hairline can cause ingrown hairs or changes to the skin, such as shadowing. This is the result of continual close cutting on dark skin. The skin may start to thicken or darken causing the discoloration. Step 26 This can be reduced by regular use of exfoliating products. Page 10

11 Step 27 Product is added to give definition to the loose movement, texture and light tendril outlines. The hair can be left to dry naturally or blow dried with a diffuser. Finish The result is a subtle graduated soft shape with loose movement and light internal and external tendrils. Finish - continued Finish - continued Page 11

12 Step 28 Dispose of the razor using a safe box according to health and safety regulations. Page 12