Index. Ê 3. Basic Principles of Hair Coloring Light and the law of color Color theory. Ê 5. Correctors and Superlighteners When and how to use them

Transcription

1 technicalbook

2 Index Ê Introduction to hair color Ê 1. Permanent Hair Color without ammonia from OW Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone Ê 2. Hair Structure Hair structure Melanin and color saturation Porosity and ph Ê 3. Basic Principles of Hair Coloring Light and the law of color Color theory Ê 4. The world of Hcolor Series and shades Ê 5. Correctors and Superlighteners When and how to use them Ê 6. Hair Color Hair Color Ê 7. The Developers The Developers

3 Index Ê 8. Application Factors for Perfect Hair Color Application techniques Ê 9. Methods and Special Applications Special Applications Ê 10. Ammonia-Free Bleaching Bleaching techniques Ê 11. Hsystem At the Service of perfect color Ê 12. Hypercolor A new dimension of development times Ê 13. Faq FAQs Ê 14. Glossary Glossary

4 Introduction to hair color Introduction to hair color Possessing a thorough knowledge of hair color means to embrace a whole world of theory, experience, fashion, analyses of physiological aspects and other considerations regarding personal identity. This handbook seeks to be a valuable tool for the hair stylist who bases his profession and success on this body of knowledge. In the following pages, Rolland will address hair color concepts through the presentation of Hcolor, the ammonia-free ORGANIC WAY color system, a line of products that allow hair stylists around the world to offer customers an enjoyable, safe technical service that gives perfect results. Coloring hair is not a recent need, but it is a human desire that is part of our history. The use of dyes was a frequent practice among Egyptians, Romans and Greeks. All dyes were of vegetable origin, such as henna, indigo, saffron and chamomile. Adopting complicated techniques and bearing inconveniences and risks, peoples of the past subjected themselves to treatments that were essentially effective in the hope of transforming the color of their natural hair. During the Renaissance, hair dyeing procedures were often similar to the processes used for dyeing materials. The simplest way was to sit in the sun with an infusion of chamomile spread over the head but with face covered to prevent the skin from becoming tanned, which would have been an undesirable effect. Other methods involved combining herbs, acids and sometimes metallic salts, which lightened the hair to the point of altering its structure. Of course, the so-called collateral effects of these processes were not even taken in consideration. With the passing of time and changes in customs there was an increase in knowledge and discovery in hair coloring techniques; the steady pace of experimentation, clear proof of a strong aesthetic desire to alter the natural color of both men s and women s hair, encouraged further research. This process of study led to success in the creation of products we currently use today. In addition to the need to cover grey hair, there was as desire to change the color of the hair to be in vogue or to satisfy a personal desire. In the past, the choice of hair color was conditioned by social class, cultural norms and also by technological limitations. Although fashion influences society by such means as fashion shows and mass media, we are free to express our personality by making choices that best reflect our identity. Learning the secrets of colorimetry and knowing how to making the best possible diagnosis of the situation allow today s hair styling professionals to express the highest calibre of their professionalism. Guaranteeing quality means eliminating the effect of surprise. It is essential to be fully knowledgeable on the subtle variations from one hair base to a- nother, and on the enormous difference that these variations can play in the final result. This handbook has the aim of enriching the knowledge of those who, by choosing Rolland Organic Way Hcolor, have selected a hair color line that expresses the desire of customers and salon professionals for a different, enjoyable hair coloring process thanks to its no-ammonia content. In the next few chapters, we will take an in-depth analysis of this complete, innovative, and high-performance line that changes the concept of hair color produced and perceived by the customer and the salon professional. Organic Way with Hcolor boosts the creative spirit in the salon and ensures customers a wellness that derives from the use of an ammonia-free product. In addition to the presentation of the line, this handbook serves as a valuable guide to color theory and an essential tool to guarantee the customer a perfect result.

5

6 Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone 1 Permanent hair color without Ammonia from Ow Hcolor is the color with permanent oxidation without ammonia and it is marketed as a scented cream in 100 ml tubes. There are a good 89 different colors in the color chart divided in 19 series: a variety of shades that distinguishes this permanent hair color without ammonia from its market competitors. Such a variety allows for a huge colorimetric range due to the fact that the shades can be mixed together. This means that any coloring procedure fashion dictates or the client requires can be carried out in the salon. Its more delicate formula significantly reduces the risks of sensitization and respiratory and skin allergies. With Hcolor the technical procedure is pleasant and safe. It s delicate, pleasing perfume and the lack of ammonia guarantees excellent air quality and breathability in the salon. With the unpleasant smells gone the client perceives the color treatment as different from any previous experience of traditional permanent color treatments. Hcolor Hcolor is the color with permanent oxidation without ammonia and it is marketed as a scented cream in 100 ml tubes. There are a good 89 different colors in the color chart divided in 19 series: a variety of shades that distinguishes this permanent hair color without ammonia from its market competitors Hcatalyst Htone

7 Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone Hcolor gives the hair more shine than traditional coloring. It guarantees 100% white hair coverage with long lasting results and its bleaching power is 3 tones and up to 4 tones with the superlighteners. Hcolor s special formula uses ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with a different physico-chemical structure to ammonia. Its molecular weight is higher than that of ammonia and because of this evaporation of amines does not occur, thus unpleasant smells in the salon and olfactory intolerance due to the breathing in of ammonia hydrates are prevented. This ammonia replacing molecule is larger and so stays and acts on the surface of the cuticle causing less damage to the cortex. Thanks to this substance and to Hcolor s particular formula, which was designed in the Rolland Laboratories to be able to guarantee the best possible performance as far as the hair fibre is concerned, the hair ph undergoes less destabilization compared to a traditional ammoniabased hair color. Hcolor maintains the hair ph lower (at least one percentage point is gained compared to ammonia-based formula) and therefore proves less damaging to the hair fibre, with less desquamation of the cuticle. Exclusive high quality micro pigments guarantee stable, long-lasting results but also intense, vibrant shades. Each color is rich in pigments and this allows intense and extremely attractive highlights (from a cosmetic point of view) to be created. Thanks to its stable formula there is no need for thickening agents. After the product has been opened there is no risk of oxidation, which can, however, occur with gel or oil-based formulas. Ethanolamine Hcolor s special formula uses Ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with a different physico-chemical structure to ammonia. The formula contains organic Perilla Oil extremely rich in Omega 3 and flavonoids boasting antioxidant and anti-allergy properties. In order to leave the hair soft and extraordinarily healthy the mix has been enriched with the precious Cotton Proteins for nourishing and reinvigorating the very depths of the hair shaft. Perilla Oil Hcolor needs to be mixed with the developers Hcatalyst and Htone following the ratio of 1 part color cream to 1 and 1/2 part developer. A dilution at a ratio of is recommended in order to fully emphasize its covering power and at the same time enhance shades. With Hcolor the hairstylist won t change his or her hairstyling rituals because it s free of the risks associated with the application of laborious formulas. Hcatalyst is a perfumed cream developer, which is perfectly stabilised according to the volumes given: 20, 30 and 40 volumes. Hcatalyst guarantees perfect viscosity with the color cream. Htone is an extra delicate milk toner designed to color and to enhance highlights and lowlights. It has extremely low volumes and it is specifically designed for Hcolor tone on tone coloring (when the base color is not to be changed,) or used in greater dilutions to tone highlights and lowlights in order to counter yellowish hues or to enhance previous highlights. For Hcolor tone on tone coloring it should be diluted at a ratio of 1 part Hcolor + 1 and 1/2 parts Htone. Cotton 3

8 Hair structure 2 In biological terms, hair is a filiform structure of keratin that originates in the epidermis. Like the fingernails, hair performs an important protective function and can be considered an appendage of the skin. Keratin, while not living, is connected to the vital processes of the skin and the entire body. Being fully familiar with the structure of the hair, its porosity, texture and ph is basic to achieving a positive result in the hair coloring service. Hair is made up of approximately 70% keratin, with the remaining 30% composed of water, lipids, mineral salts, vitamins and carbohydrates. The Hair The stem is the part of the hair that grows above the skin s surface and is divided into the roots, lengths and ends. The ends generally has a great level of porosity, affects the capacity for absorption of the color and the reflection of light. The lengths are keratinized and usually do not have a high level of porosity. The area of new growth is the least keratinized and is not porous. In this area, a strand of hair with a normal structure absorbs color easily. In addition, the body temperature of the scalp favours all types of hair coloring. The root itself is the whole part of the hair situated under the surface. Here, protein cells are keratinized and give origin to the hair before it reaches the epidermis. The active cells continually produce protein cells that are pushed upwards along the follicle. The production of cells is constant and causes the hair to grow at a rate of 1 to 1.5 cm per month. The thickness of the hair is a characteristic that is genetically determined. Hcolor Europa Sud Europa Asia 0,04-0,08 mm 0,06-0,10 mm 0,08-0,12 mm Observing the hair stem under a microscope, we can see its composition of three layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. 4

9 Hair structure the cuticle THE CUTICLE The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair. This scaly, protective layer can be felt by passing the fingers along the stem, from the end towards the root. You may note a certain resistance and roughness not felt by going in the opposite direction (from the root towards the ends). The cuticle s surface is made up of a combination of overlapping scales. These layers of scales are colorless, transparent and absorbent and allow the colored pigment on the inside of the cortex to manifest itself. Fine, light-colored hair has very few scaly layers, whereas coarse and dark hair has a higher quantity of compact layers. The overlapping (6 to 10 layers) of these layers determines the thickness of the cuticle and, together with the cortex, the diameter of the hair itself. When hair is healthy, the scales adhere perfectly, the cortex is protected, and there is a minimum dispersion of water. However, when hair is in an altered state, the scales detach and hair appears opaque, dry and porous. The cuticle is what gives the reflection of light to hair and its manageability. To achieve a permanent change of natural color, the layer of the cuticle must be slightly swelled to allow the precursors to spread throughout the cortex where they are deposited and oxidized. Because it contains no ammonia, Hcolor reduces re-swelling to a level that allows the penetration of the precursors, but also reduces to a minimum the damage to the cuticle layer. An additional barrier is provided by the Cotton Proteins contained in the formula, which offer nourishment and protection and assure that the hair stem stays intact and the scales on the surface are contiguous. The aggression of environmental factors which loosen the cohesive bond between proteins and lipids (due to a process called intracellular peroxidase) is diminished. Moreover, the formation of free radicals due to the exposure to UV rays is inhibited thanks to the presence of Perilla Oil and its strong anti-oxidant and anti-allergic action for the skin. To render the effects of hair coloring long-lasting, the stem must be closed back and smoothed in order to achieve the desired shine and softness. The less the hair is swelled during the depositing of the precursors, the easier it will be to close back the layer of the cuticle later on. Since the cuticle is responsible for the porosity of the hair, it performs the important function of barrier, determining the speed with which the technical product penetrates. the cortex THE CORTEX Situated between the cuticle and the medulla, the cortex is the intermediate layer of the hair. The cortex is the most vital and strongest part of the hair and makes up 80% of the mass of each stem. It is the most important part of the hair trichologically and chemically speaking and is responsible for its mechanical properties: elasticity, flexibility, rigidity and torsional resistance. Not only is it the layer that contains the melanin that determines hair color, it also contains numerous quantities of interlaced fibres of another protein, keratin. These micro and macro fibrils (bundles of fibres) run parallel and are the component that gives them elasticity and flexibility to the hair. Granules of melanin pigment and empty spaces settle in varying densities and types between the microfibrils. These are the internal structures of the of the cortex cells (fusiform) that make up the cortex shaft and that due to the absorption and reflection of the light determine the shade of hair color. Some pigments and empty spaces can also be situated inside the macro fibrils as well. To give hair permanent color, the precursors of the color must be introduced into the cortex, where they are activated and remain trapped. 5

10 Hair structure the medulla THE MEDULLA The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair and is made up of a structure similar to keratin, which acts as a support to a column of large disjointed cells, often distanced from each other by empty spaces that are only slightly pigmented. This substance is principally soft keratin and has no specific form or function. Little is known of this part, aside from the fact that spaces exist within the fibres. There is also hair where the medulla is insubstantial, it may even be absent in fine hair. It carries out no specific function when technical treatments are performed. the diameter The diameter of the hair and its thickness (fine, normal, coarse). The hair can be fine, normal or coarse (resistant) and can be pigmented (naturally or artificially) or non-pigmented (white/grey). Melanina The tone of hair color is a result of the degree of saturation of melanin in the cortex. MELANIN AND COLOUR SATURATION Melanin is the natural pigment produced by the body which determines the color of the hair and skin. Melanin is formed in the blood from the combination of enzymes and amino-acids. These cells are situated on the entire surface of the skin and in the hair bulbs. This colored substance is produced by cells called melanocytes present in the matrix of the hair. The pigment is synthesized in the melanosome, cytoplasmic corpuscle of melanocyte, starting from an amino acid called thyroxin. When melanin is produced, it moves along the stem and is keratinized, thus becoming an integral part of the hair. When the production of amino acids by the body decreases, the same thing happens to the formation of melanin in the whole body, leading to the first signs of grey hair. When the production of amino acids halts completely, the hair starts to go completely grey or white. It is important to understand that when hair loses melanin, the same thing happens to the skin. An expert colorist must be aware that in order to obtain effective results, hair should be suited to the color of the complexion, which alters with time. Just as important is to understand that melanin is neither dark nor light, but is always a color that goes from black to brown. The tone of hair color is a result of the degree of saturation of melanin in the cortex. The first form of melanin is EUMELANIN; it is responsible for the darkest shades of hair, from black to dark brown. The second type of melanin is PHAEOMELANIN, responsible for the light brown to natural blonde shades. The last type of melanin is TRICHOSIDERIN, which is found in naturally red hair and is an oxidized form of dark eumelanin; this is the most difficult to control. The higher the saturation of melanin, the less space there is to deposit and develop the dye precursors inside the cortex. This is the reason why it is sometimes necessary to pre-lighten, because we are actually creating space inside the hair to insert the color molecules. 6

11 Hair structure FINE HAIR Fine hair is usually easier to submit to bleaching because it has fewer scaly layers to be penetrated and a lower quantity of melanin in the cortex to be altered. This type of hair has less space on the interior and therefore reaches saturation more easily, which may make it seem a more intense or darker shade. The smaller the space, the more compact the molecules and therefore, the more intense the result. Hair Structure COARSE HAIR Changing the natural color of coarse or dark hair is a much greater task. This type has a higher quantity of scaly layers and a greater saturation of the melanin to be altered. The same shade used on coarse hair may appear lighter and more transparent because the molecules are spread out in a larger space. THE SAME QUANTITY OF DYE PRECURSORS WILL HAVE DIFFERENT DEGREES OF SATURATION ON HAIR OF DIFFERENT STRUCTURES. Tip: use a half level lighter on very fine hair and a half level darker on very thick hair. This is necessary only in extreme cases and is very useful for grey coverage. EUMELANINS With their brownish/black color they create the increase in level. According to the quantity present, hair will range from black to a very light blonde. They are mainly concentrated in the periphery of the cortex, near the cunicular layer. They are easy to lighten by using a bleaching process. They are also called granular pigments thanks to their form, which is rice-shaped. TRICHOSIDERINS Their color is what determines reddish-copper highlights. They are mainly concentrated in the medium layers of the cortex. Usually they are difficult to lighten using a bleaching process. They are also called diffusing pigments, because they appear smaller and in a greater quantity with respect to the granular type. Eumelanins Phaeomelanins PHAEOMELANINS Their yellowish color is what determines the blonde shades. They are mainly concentrated in the deep layers of the cortex. These pigments are more difficult to lighten using a bleaching process. In fact, it is impossible to eliminate Phaeomelanins from the hair completely. They are also defined diffusing pigments. 7

12 Hair structure Colour Scale When combined, Eumelanins, Trichosiderins and Phaeomelanins produce different natural colors: NATURAL BASE EUMELANINS TRICHOSIDERINS PHAEOMELANINS BLACK 55% 40% 5% DARK BROWN 50% 35% 10% DARK CHESTNUT BROWN 45% 30% 15% MEDIUM CHESTNUT BROWN 40% 25% 20% LIGHT CHESTNUT BROWN 35% 20% 25% DARK BLONDE 30% 15% 30% MEDIUM BLONDE 25% 15% 35% LIGHT BLONDE 15% 15% 40% VERY LIGHT BLONDE 10% 10% 45% PLATINUM BLONDE 5% 10% 50% COLOUR SCALE MELANIN DENSITY POROSITY AND PH The term porosity means the ability to absorb and release water or liquids and is determined by the condition of the cuticle. Healthy hair has a cuticle that is compact and contiguous, whereas damaged hair has a swollen cuticle with scales that are detached or even absent. The porosity of hair is altered by many factors, such as intense alkaline treatments, excessive development times and repeated chemical treatments, but also due to environmental or external factors, such as the sun, sea, heating instruments and styling techniques taken to an extreme. A damaged cuticle is very porous, and this factor involves a higher absorption of liquids and longer drying times. The porosity of the hair is an important factor to consider when hair is to be colored because it determines the tone, intensity and stability of the color. Hair that is very porous and damaged has a tendency to become opaque, dull or to take on strong but inconsistent tones. Normal hair has a ph of around 5.5, whereas damaged, porous hair has an altered ph which is much more alkaline; this creates a hostile environment that may cause problems during coloring processes. Very porous and damaged hair must therefore be treated with due caution. Colouring porous hair must be carried out with the awareness that this type of hair loses its color with the same ease as it acquires it. To regulate the porosity of hair before color processes, Rolland recommends that hair is sprayed generously with Hrestore, the vegetable keratin supplement. In the case of highly damaged hair, we recommend that the customer have an OW RELIFE reconstruction treatment and then thee application of ammoniafree Hcolor. 8

13 Hair structure The Hair When hair is in normal condition the cuticle is contiguous and with the use of alkaline products swells rather easily. This allows the precursors to penetrate into the cortex, to become deposited and to oxidize. Hbalance Shampoo When hair is in normal condition the cuticle is contiguous and with the use of alkaline products swells rather easily. This allows the precursors to penetrate into the cortex, to become deposited and to oxidize. Once they are penetrated beyond the cuticle, the precursors oxidize and enlarge, remaining trapped in the cortex. After this procedure, the cuticle must be closed in order to seal the color and protect the structure of the hair. This occurs during the rinse phase and is further aided by the use of an acid-based shampoo and conditioning mask. For this step, Rolland has formulated Hbalance Shampoo and HBalance Mask, the treatment and detangling mask that rebalances the ph. Hbalance Mask Hcolor, which is ammonia-free, produces a minimum reswelling between the scales of the cuticle where the micropigments are able to enter and settle in. This procedure ensures a high level of saturation by favouring total penetration while respecting the structure of the hair. This makes Hcolor a smart choice also for hair that is in less than perfect condition. 9

14 Light and the law of color 3 Basic principles of hair coloring Light surrounds us; we see it in the sky, the sea, in rocks, plants and animals. Color makes us value our lives more. All objects have a color and we only know how to distinguish them because of the light reflected on the color. To obtain a better understanding of the subject of color, scientists have had to study the nature of light. White light, like that emitted from the sun, is divided into colors of the rainbow. These colors can be then remixed to create a white light. A colored object simply reflects the light in our eyes by looking at it, whether it is an apple or a lock of hair. When we refer to a color, we are actually talking about rays of colored light that are reflections. Light is the transmitter of colors and our eyes are the receivers. Standard artificial light (a normal light bulb), accentuates warm tones such as red, gold, pink and yellow. This is the source of light used most frequently in homes, and although it may soften the ambience of a living room, it can interfere with an evaluation of the color. A fluorescent light is more economical and is recommended for the cutting area because it doesn t cast shadows; however it is unsuitable for evaluating color because it tends to emphasize green and cold tones and does not permit a true perception of reds and coppers, making them dull and opaque. Without a doubt, the best light source is the natural light produced by the sun. But as we know that it is nearly impossible to use this type, we recommend the use of a high-intensity Tungsten light, which is also the light preferred by photographers and make-up artists. Considering that the definition of color depends on the light source, this type of light will work best for areas designated for hair coloring procedures. It is unprofessional to escort the customer outside the salon into the natural light in order to reassure her/him about the color. Both stylist and customer should be satisfied about the color when the customer is in front of the mirror in the salon. THE DIMENSION OF COLOR Our eyes are continuously submitted to effects of color. It is surprising how the same color can be so different when placed alongside other colors. Scientists claim that we can see a bigger difference between colors when we see them together rather than separately. What s more, it has been proven that the eye becomes automatically more sensitive to a color when it perceives the complementary color. Colors give dimension to objects and shapes. A dark color gives the impression of distancing an object and making it smaller, whereas light colors give the impression of making an object closer and larger. The reflections of a color can also alter the depth of the tone. Warm colors reflect more light and appear lighter, whereas tones with ash or color highlights absorb more light and seem darker. This information is of fundamental importance when formulating colors and when choosing the positioning of every shade; it gives dimension to the forms; it enhances facial features and tones. Red is specified because the subject absorbs all the colors except red, which is reflected in our eyes. When all colors are absorbed we see black. When all colors are reflected we see white. 10

15 Light and the law of color LIGHT AND COLOR Natural hair color appears in all the tones of brown and is made up of three primary colors. Instead, colors created artificially can be cold (blues), warm (reds) and neutrals, but also have the possibility to originate colors outside the scheme of browns. PRIMARY COLORS Color Theory PRIMARY COLORS: YELLOW, RED AND BLUE These three colors form the base of the color spectrum. SECONDARY COLORS SECONDARY COLORS: ORANGE, VIOLET AND GREEN These colors originate from the combination of two primary colors. TERTIARY COLORS Combining a secondary color and a primary color produces shades of color. COMPLEMENTARY COLORS COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Two colors diametrically opposed on the color wheel are neutralized and produce black or dark brown. These colors are called complementary. BLURRED/UNDEFINED COLORS When surface colors that are opposite in the color wheel are mixed in different concentrations, the result will be a blurred/undefined color. BLURRED/UNDEFINED COLORS 11

16 Light and the law of color Color Theory WHITE LIGHT When it crosses through a prism it shows all the colors of the spectrum. PERCEPTION OF COLORS Colors are produced from the absorption and reflection of several wavelengths of the existing light source. Color is a subjective sensorial perception. MIX OF ADDITIVE COLORS The luminosity of different color light sources increases when directed towards the same point. MIX OF SUBTRACTIVE COLORS Every color reflects and absorbs certain wavelengths of light. When different colors are mixed, more parts of light are absorbed; in this case the resulting color will be darker. MIX OF ADDITIVE COLORS MIX OF SUBTRACTIVE COLORS 12

17 Light and the law of color In the production of hair coloring products, producers like Rolland are aware of the fact that the wider the range of coloring pigments, the more brilliant and intense the result. Hcolor offers a high saturation with a wide spectrum of pigments that offer pure, brilliant and natural tones. The lower the level of color, the higher the saturation of the pigments. This means that there is a greater availability of precursors to interact with the contributing pigment and/or to cover grey hair. Example: a level 5 has more pigments available than a level 8 and therefore offers greater grey coverage. A level 8 has a saturation greater than that of a 9 and thus has more control of the underlying pigments during the lightening phase. Using a lighter level does not heighten the lightening action. The lightening action is increased with a higher volume of developer by incorporating the 0.0 corrector. The volume of Hcatalyst Developer is the developer of the coloring cream and makes it possible to: create space for the color molecules introduce the precursors in the cortex ensure the total development of precursors. safety range The Safety Range is the term given to the range of levels within which hair can be colored with 100% control of the underlying pigment, without further preparatory treatments. SAFETY RANGE The Safety Range is the term given to the range of levels within which hair can be colored with 100% control of the underlying pigment, without further preparatory treatments. With Hcolor the Safety Range is 3 levels of tone lighter and darker than the base color. Example: if natural color is a level 6, the safety range is from 4 to 8. Adding the 0.0 corrector, the safety range is 4 levels (3+1). Knowing the dominant pigments helps a great deal in bleaching and re-pigmentation procedures. 13

18 Series and shades 4 The world of Hcolor Hcolour offers a rich range of 89 shades divided into the following 19 series. EACH HCOLOUR SHADE IS SPECI- FIED WITH A SERIES OF NUMBERS THAT REPRESENT THE LEVEL AND THE HIGHLIGHT: Ê The number before the point is the level of the tone on a scale from 1 to 9. Ê The first number after the point indicates the main highlight. Ê The second number after the point indicates the secondary highlight. Ê When the numbers after the point are different, this indicates two highlights together with the first being dominant. Ê When the numbers after the point are the same, this indicates an intense highlight. SHADES Ê Ex: Red Copper Blonde 7.46 Level (tone): blonde Primary highlight: copper Secondary highlight: red The combination of shades in the formulation of personalized colours is made possible because all shades are perfectly calibrated. Ê NATURAL SERIES Natural black 2.0 Brown 3.0 Natural, dark brown 4.0 Natural brown 5.0 Natural, light brown 6.0 Natural, dark blond 7.0 Natural blond 8.0 Natural, light blond 9.0 Natural, very light blond Ê NATURAL ASH SERIES Ash-natural, brown 5.01 Ash-natural, light brown 6.01 Ash-natural, dark blond 7.01 Ash-natural blond 8.01 Ash-natural, light blond 9.01 Ash-natural, very light blond Ê ASH SERIES Ash brown 5.1 Ash, light brown 6.1 Ash, dark blond 7.1 Ash blond 8.1 Ash, light blond 9.1 Ash, very light blond 10.1 Ash, extra light blond Ê BLUE SERIES 1.8 Blue black Ê BEIGE SERIES Beige, light brown 6.31 Beige, dark blond 7.31 Beige blond 8.31 Beige, light blond 9.31 Beige, very light blond Ê GOLDEN SERIES Golden, light brown 6.3 Golden, dark blond 7.3 Golden blond 8.3 Golden, light blond 9.3 Golden, very light blond 10.3 Golden, extra light blond Ê COPPERY GOLDEN SER Coppery-golden, light brown 6.34 Coppery-golden, dark blond 7.34 Coppery-golden blond 8.34 Coppery-g., light blond Ê DEEP COPPERY SERIES Deep coppery, light brown 6.44 Deep coppery, dark blond 7.44 Deep coppery blond 8.44 Deep coppery, light blond Ê RED COPPERY SERIES Red coppery, light brown 6.46 Red coppery, dark blond 7.46 Red coppery blond Ê COPPERY SERIES Coppery brown 5.4 Coppery, light brown 6.4 Coppery, dark blond 7.4 Coppery blond 8.4 Coppery, light blond Ê MAHOGANY SERIES Mahogany brown 5.5 Mahogany, light brown 6.5 Mahogany, dark blond Ê RED MAHOGANY SERIES Red mahogany brown 5.56 Red mahogany, light brown 6.56 Red mahogany, dark blond Ê RED SERIES Red brown 5.6 Red, light brown 7.6 Red blond Ê DE EP RED SERIES Deep red, light brown 6.66 Deep red, dark blond 7.66 Deep red blond 8.66 Deep red, light blond Ê IRISÉE RED SERIES Irisée red, light brown 6.62 Irisée red, dark blond 7.62 Irisée red blond Ê DEEP PURPLE SERIES Deep purple brown 5.77 Deep purple, light brown 6.77 Deep purple, dark blond Ê MIXED SERIES 3.05 CI Chocolate 4.05 CL Milk chocolate 4.35 CF Coffee 5.35 CT Tobacco light brown 6.35 BST Tobacco dark blond 7.35 BT Tobacco blond 5.03 CM Mocha light brown 6.03 BSM Mocha dark blond 7.03 BM Mocha blond 5.32 CDI Irisée-golden, light brown 7.32 BA Havana blond Ê SUPER BLEACHING SERIES Natural super-bleach. blond 90.1 Ash super-bleaching blond 90.2 Irisée super-bleach. blond 90.3 G. super-bleach. blond Ê HAIR-TONE CORRECTORS 0.0 Bleaching activator 0.1 Ash hair-tone corrector 0.3 Gold hair-tone corrector 0.6 Red hair-tone corrector 0.8 Blue hair-tone corrector 14

19 Series and shades Shades SHADES AND INDICATIONS FOR USE Ê NATURAL SERIES 9 shades Considered neutral, neither warm nor cold. Formulated in equal parts yellow, red and blue. Recommended for grey/white coverage. Can be mixed together with all highlights to increase grey/white coverage. For natural tones with a warm undertone, incorporate a small % of the golden and copper series. Ê.01 NATURAL ASH 6 shades Has a secondary ash highlight that gives a slightly colder tone. Is an excellent choice when a warm pigment is to be lifted. Ê.1 ASH 7 shades Contains a majority of blue pigment such to be considered a cold tone. Is not recommended for grey/white coverage as hair could come out grey. Is an excellent series to use in order to neutralize red/orange pigments. This series comes out one tone darker than the warmer series. Ê.31 BEIGE 5 shades A series with a secondary ash highlight that offers delicate beige shades. Total coverage up to 30% of grey/ white hair. Ê.3 GOLD 6 shades Good for achieving warm and radiant highlights. Excellent for mixing with the NATURAL series to achieve natural, luminous effects. Ê.34 COPPER GOLD 4 shades A combination of primary golden highlights and secondary copper highlights. Together they create a more intense golden series. Ê.44 INTENSE COPPER 4 shades Bright copper highlights. Ê.46 RED COPPER 3 shades The secondary red highlight intensifies the copper, resulting in a deeper highlight. Ê.4 COPPER 5 shades The copper highlights of this series are a perfect combination of yellow and orange pigments. Creates vibrant, lustrous highlights. Produces beautiful effects of colour on natural hair. Ê.5 MAHOGANY 3 shades This series of red/violet highlights is optimized when used on tones from 4 to 6. Ê.56 RED MAHOGANY 3 shades A red variation of primary mahogany highlight with slight violet highlights. Ê.6 RED 3 shades The red highlights of this series are good for achieving vibrant, long-lasting reds. They can be mixed with other shades to obtain warmer colours. Ê.66 INTENSE RED 4 shades Double red highlight offers intense and pure colours. Ê.62 IRISÉE RED 3 shades A series with red/violet highlights makes colours intense and vibrant. Ê.8 BLUE BLACK 1 shades Blue pigments offer an undertone highlight with a vibrant effect. Ê MIXED Special series where the primary and secondary highlights are specially mixed to create hybrid effects defined with metaphorical names. Highlighting is warm and very natural. 15

20 When and how to use them 5 Correctors And Superlighteners The series of Hcolor Superlighteners are colors that not only have dye precursors but also have a stronger lightening action. This series acts more like a lightener than a color, with the advantage that there is control over the degree of lightening and over the dominant pigment, even lightening 4 levels. Creates blondes in 4 levels (tones). Colours are controlled and clean. One procedure only (less time taken). A series that includes 4 highlights, each offering the possibility to lighten 4 levels with a control equal to 100% of the underlying pigment. We recommend that the superlighteners be used from a level 6 to 9. For maximum lightening we advise using Hcatalyst 40 vol./12% or to add the 0.0 corrector. The 4 highlights of the Hcolor superlighteners can get up to 4 levels of lightening in difficult cases with the addition of the 0.0. corrector, therefore offering 70% of control of the underlying pigment. The darkest levels (from 3 down) will obtain the best lightening results by performing a double procedure and choosing lower volumes with HBleach, and then using the best shade of Hcolor (chapter 10) Makes it possible to enhance natural pigments and can be used to lighten Lightens and offers a good control of orange/red pigments. The best choice for lightening darker tones Offers pearly shades. Used on bleached bases, is an excellent ant-yellowing product. Excellent results when used on tones Accentuates golden tones. Best when used on light tones 8-9. CORRECTORS 4 highlights + 1 lightening booster All correctors except 0.0, which is colorless, are composed of dye precursors called pure pigments. This series has the aim of intensifying or altering the highlights of oxidizing colors. It can be used with all shades of Hcolor to accentuate or modify the highlight. The properties of the Correctors enable a perfect formulation specially adapted to any situation. The addition of corrector should never exceed 6% of the total oxidizing cream. The use of correctors by themselves is not recommended because they may come out transparent, synthetic and incomplete. superlighteners Base Level Developer Blend Development time 7-8 Hcatalyst vol 1:1 and 1/2 45 minutes 5-6 Hcatalyst 40 vol 50% of % of superlightener: 1+ 1 and 1/2 45 minutes 16

21 When and how to use them Color Disc This disc will help you understand where the Hcolor shades are positioned on the color wheel. 0.0 lightening booster 0.1 Ash 0.3 Gold 0.6 Red 0.8 Blue 0.0 is a lightening booster containing no dye precursors. It is intended to boost the lightening action. This intensifier allows the formula used to have an excellent control of the dominant pigments; the addition of 0.0 should never exceed 50% of the total of the coloring cream. Its use is especially recommended with the Superlighteners. Created to lift ash highlights; controls the dominant yellow pigments. Should be used with the natural series or ash. Increases the intensity of golden shades, softens coppers and reds and makes natural colors brighter. This corrector intensifies all warm shades and helps to prevent earthy, dull tones that sometime arise in the correction of color. Can be used to enhance mahogany, irisee, copper highlights or else eliminate dulled green/grey highlights. This corrector increases the cold highlight of the color. Increases blue tones and neutralizes red/copper highlights. 17

22 Hair Color 6 Hair color can be divided into four types according to the final result you wish to achieve: Temporary color Semi-permanent color Tone-on-tone color using oxidizing agent Permanent color using oxidizing agent Different products are used for each of these types of hair color: Hair Color Semi-permanent color Covers (masks) grey hair as long as it is present in a percentage below 30%-35%. Does not lighten, is applied tone-on-tone, can give a pronounced highlight, stays in for 3-4 shampoos. Tone on tone Products are generally in liquid or foam form and use no hydrogen peroxide. Development time is minutes. Contains no ammonia, covers up to 50-70% of grey/ white hair, is applied tone-on-tone, can give a pronounced, long-lasting highlight. Permanent coloring Contains ammonia, alkaline substance, (in Hcolor Ethanolamine), covers up to 100% of grey/white hair, can lighten the natural color of hair tones; can give a pronounced highlight that is permanent. Products are generally in liquid or cream form, need to be mixed with volume hydrogen peroxide, are applied with a brush; development time is at least 30 minutes, hair must be rinsed. 18

23 Hair Color Hcolor THE ACTION MECHANISM In this handbook, we give a description of Hcolor from the Organic Way line. Hcolor is an ammonia-free permanent color. It is included in the last type of hair color (permanent with oxidizing agent) although it contains no ammonia. Colour using an oxidizing agent acts in two ways simultaneously: it both lightens and colors hair. To do this, three important factors come into play: Ethanolamine Oxidizing agent Pre-stage pigments These elements must be mixed very well in order to obtain a cream that is easy to apply. We now turn our attention to the role of these three components inside the hair. The action mechanism of this type of coloring is the following: A. Ethanolamine opens the scales; B. Ethanolamine neutralizes the H2O2 stabilizers, freeing oxygen, then evaporates; C. The oxygen freed by the Ethanolamine arrives at the cortex, reacts with the pre-stage pigments and lightens the natural melanin of the hair. D. The pre-stage pigments reach the cortex. When choosing among the different types of color, you must bear in mind the level of the tone, the tone to achieve according to the objective, the percentage of grey/white hair to cover, if there were previous color treatments and the level of the hair s porosity. 19

24 The developers 7 The developers The developer is HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H2O2) diluted in emulsion. It acts as an oxidizing agent of hair color and as a lightener on the pigments of melanin. The percentage used determines its oxidizing capacities. The correct quantities of dilution of hydrogen peroxide in the color mixture (established by the producer) are essential for a guaranteed result. The peroxide performs different combined activities in coloring using oxidization: A. lightens the natural melanins of the hair; B. develops the pre-stage pigments; C. buffers the aggressiveness of basic substances contained in the color. Clearly, the range of hair coloring services performed in salons (bleaching, stripping, color treatments, etc.) all use an oxidizing agent. It is a good idea, then, to gain a thorough understanding of the content, functions, metrics, dilution and the scope of action of this element in order to manage the color treatment process as successfully as possible. The pre-stage pigments, due to the freed oxygen, are colored and increase in size by uniting themselves in groups (oxidative condensation). The pigments developed wedge between the cortex fibres from where they will never be able to escape given their size. The color obtained is the joint result of the lightening effect produced and the applied color. The color is normally developed in a basic environment around 10 ph. The oxidizer is a concentration of oxygen atoms in the gaseous state in a water solution. It is composed of two oxygen atoms and two hydrogen atoms (H2O2). The molecule of the hydrogen peroxide is instable; in fact, it tends to free an oxygen atom to become a water molecule. The strength of the oxidizer can be expressed either as a volume or percentage: - 20, 30, or 40 volumes - 6%, 9% or 12% When we say a 20, 30, or 40 volume oxidizer, this means that one litre of oxidizer can develop 20, 30, or 40 litres of oxygen in the gaseous state. When we say 6%, 9%, 12% hydrogen peroxide, this means that out of 1000 grams of product, 60, 90, or 120 grams are active oxygen. N.B The remaining part to reach 1000 grams is demineralized water. - 6% hydrogen peroxide is the same as 20 volume hydrogen peroxide - 9% hydrogen peroxide is the same as 30 volume hydrogen peroxide -12% hydrogen peroxide is the same as 40 volume hydrogen peroxide 20

25 The developers oxidizer The oxidizer is composed of: Base or support, is usually in a creamy or liquid emulsion. The liquid support of the oxidizer evaporates more quickly than a creamy support, is less stable and more aggressive; the support in a creamy emulsion of the oxidizer evaporates less quickly compared to the liquid support, is less stable and less aggressive, contains buffering substances. OXIDIZING SUBSTANCES: the most often used is hydrogen peroxide. STABILIZING SUBSTANCES: these make the oxidizing molecule stable. TIPS FOR A CORRECT USE OF THE OXIDIZER The oxidizer must be stored in sealed bottles, which are to be use within a short period of time once opened. The oxidizer must not be exposed to the sun or store in environments that are too hot. The oxidizer must be kept away from dust or ash. dilution DILUTION Hcolor has a dilution of /2 - Example: 50 g color + 75 ml of oxidizer This means that the Rolland research labs have formulated the color so that its components are perfectly balanced in a mix performed in a ratio of 1: 1 and 1/2. This dilution offers an economic advantage for the hairdresser because ammoniafree colors on the market usually are diluted at a ratio of 1:1. The dilution of Hcolor at 1: 1 and 1/2 translates into excellent savings for the salon. The quantity of oxidizer to be mixed with the color is depends a great deal on the chemical formula. When the rules on utilization are disregarded, the result is an unbalance in the color and undesirable aesthetic results. The lightening effect for the natural base of hair with respect to the color desired by the customer determines the choice of oxidizer: 20 volumes = 6% 30 volumes = 9% 40 volumes =12% 21

26 The developers Miscelazione To best identify the base color, we recommend using the Hcolor color chart. It is important to determine the differences in l between the natural base color and the desired color for the choice of the 20, 30, or 40 volume strength. MIXTURE Color + 20 vol. oxidizer /2 Color + 30 vol. oxidizer /2 Color + 40 vol. oxidizer /2 LIGHTENING ACTION up to 1 level up to 2 levels up to 3-4 levels Developers Choosing the correct developer Hcatalyst and Htone are Hcolor developers in a scented emulsion, perfectly stabilized according to the volumes indicated. Hcatalyst is available in 3 levels: 20 vol/6%, 30 vol/9%, and 40 vol/12%. Htone develops approximately at 8-9 volumes; it is a creamy developer for ammonia-free tone-on-tone Hcolor coloring products. Each of these developers is added with Perilla Oil and Cotton Protein to provide a gentle action on the hair shaft and cuticle so that hair will be soft, strong and radiant during the treatment. They offer a complete development of the precursors, excellent lightening action, as well as protect hair from structural damage. Hcolor should be mixed with the Hcatalyst oxidizing emulsion in the ratio of 1 part coloring cream and 1 and 1 2 of oxidizer. The colorist and also follow the dilution to give maximum coverage while enhancing the shades. To ensure that the precursors are completely developed and that the product is uniform, it is important that the product is mixed at a proportion of 1: 1 and 1/2 and 1:1 (1 part cream to 1: 1 and 1/2 parts developer or 1:1 if coloring grey/white hair). If these proportions are altered, less energy is available to deposit, develop or lighten, with the resulting being imprecise colors that will not last very long. When choosing the level of 22

27 The developers developer, it is important to remember that hydrogen peroxide is the energy source for Hcolor. Htone is an extra gentle toning milk to color and enhance highlights, streaks and contrasts. For Hcolor tone-on-tone color treatments (when the base shade doesn t need to be altered) mix in the proportion of 1 Hcolor to 1: 1and 1/2 Htone. Htone To tone highlights and contrasts: after performing highlights and contrasts, blot hair. Dilute Htone according to the required quantities with the desired shade of Hcolor and apply over the entire head, paying special attention to the pieces of hair with highlights or contrasts. Hcatalyst 20 vol. Leave on a maximum of 5 minutes, then rinse generously. Proceed with Hbalance shampoo and Hbalance mask from the Hsystem line. The level of volume determines the degree of saturation and lightening, so that the higher the volume, the less evident the natural color in the final result. Htone / 2,7% Htone Tone-on-tone, to darken, tone grey hair. Hcatalyst 30 e 40 vol. 20 vol / 6% Hcatalyst Color Deposit, 1-2 levels, covers grey. 30 vol / 9% Hcatalyst Vibrant Colours, 2-3 levels, covers difficult grey 40 vol / 12% 3-4 levels, covers grey. to improve the grey coverage or the bleaching power is possible to use 25 volumes mixing Hcatalyst vol. Substituting developers is never advised, because each developer has been formulated to work in synergy with its counterpart. Hcatalyst and Htone are both must more than simple hydrogen peroxides ; they are a complex mixture of ingredients with a specific ph that guarantees each Hcolor shade perfect performance (viscosity, natural actives on hair, etc.). 23

28 Application tecniques 8 Application factors for perfect hair color Every stylist aims to achieve a perfect color treatment to satisfy the highest expectations of his/her customer. To do this, it is important to analyze the basic points for a correct application of Hcolor. The first aspect regards the base color. The roots, lengths and ends should all be analyzed separately. After that, the level, the highlight or shade and if natural or artificial color is the case. Again, we need to consider the steps necessary for the color, the tone to achieve the goal and to establish the base pigment. Analyzed separately are the front and back and a correct ascertainment of the percentage of grey/white hair. The structure of the hair is another variable that will be considered: normal, fine or coarse / delicate or resistant / chemically treated / porous or very damaged (cuticle open). We must also understand if the hair structure will absorb the color and/or resist the treatment. With this information, the stylist will be able to define the method, the product, the formulation, the application and the development time. Interview The interview with the customers allows the stylist to discover what the real desires of the customer are in terms of color. Because it important to communicate clearly, here are some questions the salon professional may direct to the customer. What do you think of the color of your hair? Would you like to change it? What shades do you prefer: light, medium or dark? (use the color chart) What highlighting do you prefer, copper, ash, gold, red, etc.? If you could change the color of your hair, what shade would you choose? What color on the color chart do you like? Do you like the new color on this model chosen from the Rolland fashion collection? What do you think about personalizing your color with fashion services (streaks, slights, etc.)? How long have you been coloring your hair? Do you have it colored by the hair stylists or do it yourself at home? What problems do you encounter in hair coloring? What do you appreciate about coloring? Another step concerns the indirect or direct consultation of the customer. Indirectly, the salon professional must consider the style and taste of the customer, the clothing, the accessories, lifestyle, profession, and what the customer generally prefers. A diagnosis can be made together, especially if the customer is new. In most cases, when applying color the first time, it usually is not a good idea to present the color treatment as a process that will result in a radical transformation. Learn how to distinguish cases where the customer is seeking a change for psychological reasons. Propose a change that will enhance the natural color of hair without altering it, one that gives more splendour and emphasis to the hair style. Hcolor gives a natural effect, softens hair, and makes it shiny and easy to manage. Terms like radiance, streaks, highlights, brilliance, natural shade, contrasts, trans- 24

29 Application tecniques parency, slight highlight, elegant nuance, gentle shade, etc. prompt favourable reactions because they correspond generally to conscious desires. However, there are also terms to prefer: POSITIVE Tint >> To color To Dye >> To Colour To Transform >> To Highlight Transformation >> Highlighting Bleaching >> Lightening After the interview, we can encourage the customer to consider a service by suggesting something from the images of the Rolland fashion collection or by using magazines. This will be done with the aid of the color chart including locks of hair, enabling us to show exactly what we mean by mahogany or copper. With Hcolor we can perform application directly from the roots to the ends in a single procedure. To add color to the area of regrowth, first apply to the roots, then lengths, and last on the ends. For applications on hair that has never been treated, first apply to lengths, then ends, and last on roots. As far as formulas are concerned, it is of almost importance to observe the quantities of product necessary for the quantity of hair to be colored, the mixture doses and to utilize the electronic scale for measuring the right quantity. Bowls and brushes must always be dry and clean. Skin sensitivity test Perilla Oil Hcolor is formulated without ammonia and contains Perilla Oil featuring anti-allergic properties, it offers protection from many allergy problems. Because Hcolor is formulated without ammonia and contains Perilla Oil featuring anti-allergic properties, it offers protection from many allergy problems. But when it comes to allergies or other skin problems, we know that these can also be caused by plants or become evident over time. For this reason, before any application of color, a skin test should be made to see if the customer exhibits an intolerance for the product. - Wash 1 cm of skin behind the ear well with alcohol. - Apply a small quantity of Hcolor on the area that has been prepared. - Repeat application 2 or 3 times and allow to dry between intervals. - Wait 48 hours without washing the area. - If there is any itching or redness after this time period, there is probably a sensitivity to some component in the product, and therefore the color should not be applied. 25

30 Application tecniques Skin sensitivity test ESTABLISH 1. level of tone and highlight 2. % of grey/white hair 3. previous chemical services 4. stated tone and highlight 5. levels of lightening 6. degree of deposit 7. dominant underlying pigment DEFINE 1. formula 2. level of Hcatalyst or whether to use Htone 3. application technique 4. development time ENSURE THAT 1. level offers sufficient saturation of color 2. highlight selected matches the range of application 3. the mixture is 1: 1 and 1/2 or 1+ 1 in case greater coverage is desired 4. mixture is blended well 5. application is accurate and uniform APPLICATION TECHNIQUES Before starting, we recommend applying Hscreen (chapter 11) to protect the customer s skin and that the person performing the service uses gloves. We also advise that both wear protective garments. BASIC RULES If grey/white hair is present, start application from the back. The application technique is established according to the situation and depends on the final result desired. That said, there are three basic techniques. Ê 1. APPLICATION FROM ROOTS TO ENDS Hcolor offers the possibility to apply the product directly from the roots to the ends in a single step. This technique is also applicable, including on virgin hair, only when working within the safety range, i.e., lightening or darkening within 3-4 levels. Using this technique means that on each piece treated, the product should be applied immediately from the roots to the ends. With results that require going outside the safety range, it is necessary to adopt traditional methods such as re-pigmentation. 26

31 Application tecniques Ê 2. APPLICATION TO VIRGIN HAIR Virgin hair Hair that has never undergone a color treatment process is called virgin hair. When color is given to a head of virgin hair (even performing a treatment process outside the safety range) it is necessary to take into consideration the length of the hair to be treated. The filiform characteristic of the hair makes it take on two different aspects, which should not be underestimated. Difference in temperature:. The scalp has a temperature of about 32 which gradually decreases towards the ends (depending on the length) until reaching an ambient temperature of approx Difference in structure: The hair, which is primarily structured of keratin located inside the epidermis of the hair bulb, overlaps, lengthens and keratinizes. Once it is consolidated, unless it undergoes environmental damage as it distances itself from the scalp, it gradually becomes more resistant to chemical products. Given the diversity in temperature and the non-uniform structure, this situation may present obstacles that do not allow a uniform result from the roots to the ends. In order for this technique to have a good outcome, we recommend the following procedure: - Use a higher developer (e.g., 30 volumes) on the half lengths and ends. - Leave 2 cm at the root, apply the product onto the half lengths and ends. - Allow to develop for 15 minutes. - Apply the second formula with a lower developer (e.g. 20 volumes) at the roots. - Allow to develop 30 minutes. - Emulsify and massage together. Allow to process 5 minutes. Ê 3. APPLICATION TO REGROWTH - Prepare the product according to the normal instructions. - Apply only to the roots, following the rule. - Make sure not to overlap the product in the areas that are already colored. - Allow to develop 30 minutes. - Prepare the formula again using the Htone developer. - Apply to half-lengths and ends. - Allow to develop 10 minutes. Hcolor has been formulated to enable simple use, and thanks to its calibrated tones, it is also dependable and versatile. To ensure optimum performance, we recommend following this guide carefully when preparing the formulas. 27

32 Application tecniques Preparation FORMULATING Hcolor starts to perform its function right when the compound is applied onto the hair. To optimize performance, a certain set of evaluations must be made and certain rules must be followed before starting. When performing hair color treatment, every factor that intervenes must be evaluated and used in order to obtain the desired result. This part may seem the most complex; however thanks to the components of its special formula (whose strong wetting action makes the color molecule easily penetrable without making necessary excessive swelling of the hair). Hcolor ensures the color the promised result, exact correspondence of the stated tones and healthy hair. This means that if the tone stated is a 6, then a level of tone 6 should be used. If a lighter tone is used, the lightening action of the product is not increased; instead the availability of colored pigments necessary to control the underlying pigments is diminished. PREPARING THE COLOUR When preparing the color it is important that the doses are exact in order to obtain a constant result (1:1 and 1/2 is always advised). We recommend using a professional scale indicating grams. Never use metal bowls or instruments. Always measure the developer and the coloring cream. Immediately use the product after preparation. When more than one shade is used, first mix the creams together, then add the developer. Never use more than 6% of corrector. You may obtain technically perfect results that make a very nice impact by following a few basic rules. The color should be mixed with Hcatalyst oxidizing emulsion in the ratio of 1 part coloring cream to 1: and 1/2 parts oxidizer. You can also perform the dilution of 1+1 to emphasize coverage while enhancing the shades to a greater degree. Only Hcatalyst guarantees the perfect stabilization and exact correspondence to the stated volumes. Pour in small quantities until the liquid is perfectly incorporated. The final mixture must be soft but have a certain consistency. Before using Hcolor, do not wash hair. Brush it carefully to eliminate any residues of hair sprays or fixing lotions. Shampoo using a gentle product such as OW Daily Act Shampoo only with hair that has too many residues of finishing products or is extremely dirty, then after a short drying process, apply the color mixture. 28

33 Application tecniques DEVELOPMENT TIMES AND RINSING The development time depends on the desired result. However, it is essential that the time falls within the minimum and maximum time indicated. During the development time, Hcolor first performs the lightening phase and then develops the precursors. When the product is rinsed out before the minimum development time is completed (30-35 minutes), the results will be imprecise and incomplete. Development times indicated below are recommended by Hcolor in order to ensure an optimum performance: If Hypercolor is used, the development times are reduced by about 65-70% (Chapter 12). Rinsing Hcolor is a simple procedure that will have excellent results if performed carefully. At the end of the development time, emulsify the color mixture. Wait several seconds, then rinse out the product thoroughly. Shampoo and condition using products from the Hsystem line (Chapter 10) and style as usual. After rinsing, the results should be: Scalp and hairline showing no traces of color Scalp and hair free of residues A scalp with no progressive irritations A balanced ph over scalp and hair Healthy, long-lasting colors Development Times: Ê DESIRED RESULT: Darken, Tone-on-tone DEVELOPMENT TIME: 30 minutes Ê DESIRED RESULT: 1-2 levels Coverage of grey/white DEVELOPMENT TIME: minutes Ê DESIRED RESULT: 3-4 levels Coverage of resistant grey/white DEVELOPMENT TIME: minutes Ê DESIRED RESULT: 4+ levels Superlighteners DEVELOPMENT TIME: 45 minutes 29

34 Special applications 9 Methods and special applications Grey coverage Hair turns grey or white when the body stops producing amino acids, and as a result the production of melanin is reduced in the entire body. When hair loses colour, skin tone changes too; this is an important factor to consider when a colour is chosen for a customer who has a high percentage of grey hair. It is not advisable to match mature skin with tones that are too dark or cold. The use of lighter and golden tones tends to illuminate the face, soften facial features and give a more natural image. The most important requirement is to obtain a good coverage together with the desired effects. WHEN MAKING A HAIR ANALYSIS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO ESTABLISH: Ê the percentage (30%-50%-70%-etc.) Ê the distribution (more at the temples, more at the top) Grey hair % GREY HAIR MIX DILUTION UP TO 50% only desired shade 1:1 for fine hair 70-60% desired shade % natural shade 1 level lower for resistant hair OVER 50% 50% desidered shade + 50% natural shade 1 level lower 1:1 **THIS TABLE FUNCTIONS WITH % OF GREY HAIR UNIFORMLY DISTRIBUTED, DEVELOPMENT TIME IS 40 MINUTES (15-20 minutes with Hypercolor method -if the grey hair percentage is very high) Ê EXAMPLE: GREY HAIR: 70%, uniformly distributed Ê DESIRED TONE: 7.3 Ê 50% of % of volume Hcatalyst or 30 vol if VERY DIFFICULT HAIR TO TREAT To cover white hair it is very important to begin the application from behind. When grey hair is concentrated in a confined area (e.g., the roots) using the prepigmentation technique is strongly recommended. 30

35 Special applications Pre-pigmentation Pre-pigmentation Ê This technique is utilized when there is a high concentration of difficult-to-treat grey hair, for example at the roots, temples or in case of grey locks that are difficult to treat. Ê The pre-pigmentation has two main functions: it opens the scales of the cuticle thanks to the higher basicity contained in the pure dye; it pre-colours, it gives grey hair a quantity of pre-stage pigments that will later be developed by the oxidizer contained in the colouring mix to guarantee a perfect coverage of grey hair. Ê Apply pure Hcolor colour to grey hair without mixing it with oxidizer. Distribute the product uniformly, using a brush or else squeezing directly from the tube; massage in with fingers. Do not apply an excessive quantity of the product and do not rinse. Next, without allowing for any development time, apply the mix to the entire head (also on the pre-pigmented area). Ê To pre-pigment, use the natural series in case of natural or cold shades, or else the warm series in case of golden and warm shades. Choose a shade from the natural or warm series in a darker tone than that of the colour applied later. Colour Correction Services requiring preparation of the hair prior to application of the oxidizing colour are called Colour Correction services. These services are carried out when a customer desires the following: - To colour very resistant hair - A lighter colour on hair that has already been coloured. - A much darker colour on lightened hair. - The removal of a highlight. - To revive faded colours. Sensitizing the cuticle or mordenzatura Sensitizing the cuticle or mordenzatura, is a technique that allows you to increase the porosity of difficult-to-treat hair and prepare it to receive a colour via oxidization. The procedure must be performed at the sink, on dry hair, and by massaging on the lengths and ends Hcatalyst 20 volumes taking care not to sensitize the scalp. After 5-10 minutes of processing time it s possible to proceed directly with the hair colour application. Another suggestions is apply directly from the tube the 0.0. lightening booster. Massage using the fingertips in the most difficult to treat areas and continue with the hair colour service. 31

36 Special applications Colour cleaning Colour cleaning If after a Colour application an overload of colour (leaden effect) appear on lengths and ends proceed with colour cleaning: on wet hair apply gr of Hcatalyst vol. Massage in and keep in processing time minutes. Proceed with Hbalance shampoo and Hbalance mask. Apply Hrestore to integrate the hair structure. Stripping This is a special technique that allows you to modify artificial pigments. It is performed when there is the need to switch to a lighter cosmetic colour than that existing. It is the only way to meet this need and to avoid the long wait with different shades of the re-growth, lengths and ends. Repigmentation Repigmentation Ê What it is : - Repigmentation is performed when you wish to colour hair with a weakened structure, hair that rejects colour or else absorbs it irregularly, causing blotching, smudging, and other mishaps. - It literally means to give back pigment to hair that has lost it due to natural or artificial causes. It is also defined as construction of foundation. Ê Repigmentation offers the following advantages: - Obtains medium or dark shades on light bases - Makes colour more long-lasting on porous hair - Avoids colour changes - Reinforces the highlight of a shade on very fragile ends - Makes shades more brilliant Ê When to do it: - Repigmentation is performed in the following cases: - Anytime you wish to darken hair that doesn t possess the ideal support to guarantee hold and fidelity to the cosmetic shade applied afterwards. - If you wish to darken natural hair three tones or more. - When coloured or super-lightened hair has to be darkened from two tones onward. - When natural hair has to be darkened from three tones onward. - When colouring very fragile hair, i.e., streaked or bleached hair - Whenever you want to avoid colour changes on ash tones. - When you exceed the ideal base for lightening in the case of a bleaching or stripping process. Hcolor requires repigmentation only if you want to work outside the safety range (3 tones) or when hair is particularly porous. Repigmentation requires the use of warm colours (golds, coppers and reds) and to avoid ash tones. Even if the desired tone is cold it is necessary give a warm tone (golds-coppers, reds for dark tones) 32

37 Special applications Ê How to proceed At the sink, clean the hair with the OW Daily shampoo only if there are a lot of styling residues. On dry hair apply 50% Hcolor + 50% water (better if it is distil). Choose the, nuance at half of chromatic scale, for instance from tone 9 to get 4 choose tone 6 and use always goldens-coppers, then % of % of distil water. Apply this mix on the area. Leave on 20 minutes. Apply Hcatalyst 20 vol on the area. Leave on minutes. Rinse and proceed with the colouring. Apply colour onto the root, lengths and ends for minutes. After use Hbalance shampoo e Hbalance mask. Changing a highlight Changing a highlight If you want: Ash to Beige >> cold Golden to Copper >> gold Red to Purple >> warm Natural >> neutral 1. If you want to go from neutral to a golden or from a golden to a warm highlight, simply apply the desired colour over the existing colour. Always use the rules of colormetry. 2. Instead, when the goal is to go from a golden to a neutral or cold highlight, you have to use a golden ash or ash, the complementary colour (counter-colour) 3. In the most extreme cases, when you want to go from a red to a neutral or cold, it is necessary an ash tone Ref. Newton Disk (Chapter 5). Reinforcing a highlight This simple procedure is used to reinforce existing colours, for example when colours are faded on lengths and ends). With a retouch application, first apply the colour to the roots, then (after minutes) apply the reinforcing colour by adding the pure colour into the mix already on lengths and ends. Rinse. Cleanse with Hbalance Shampoo and condition with Hbalance Mask. Reinforcing a highlight 33

38 Bleaching techniques 10 Ammonia-free Bleaching PRE-LIGHTENING Pre-lightening is used to create a level suitable for the desired color. It is a necessary procedure when lightening beyond the range of safety. Ê Using the doses indicated in the Hbleach product, hair is bleached until reaching the level of lightening corresponding to the level of tone desired. Ê Rinse. Wash with Hbalance shampoo and apply Hrestore. Ê Dry. Ê Apply the nuance desired. BLEACHING AND TONING This procedure is used when we need to lighten over 6 tones and wish to achieve a very light blonde. Ê Lighten to a pale yellow. Ê Rinse. Wash with Hbalance Shampoo and condition with Hbalance Mask. Ê Choose a shade that has a good concentration (saturation) of pigments to neutralize the underlying pigment. Ê Mix the product (1:1 and 1/2) with 20 volume Hcatalyst. Ê Allow to develop minutes. Check carefully during this interval. Ê Rinse. Wash with Hbalance Shampoo and condition with Hbalance Mask. Decolorazione 38

39 Bleaching techniques Hbleach The WHITE FORMULA is designed for soft mèches and color remover. The VIOLET FORMULA is used for intense highlights. he violet formula is used to counter yellowish hues. Both formulas are scented with pleasant essences both for the hairstylist and for the client. Moreover, Hbleach has a DUST FREE composition which is non-volatile so that it cannot be inhaled during preparation and application. Hbleach characteristics and application Hbleach is an ammonia-free bleaching powder enriched with Perilla Oil, which contains flavonoids boasting antioxidant properties, and with Cotton Proteins for nourishing and reinvigorating the very depths of the hair shaft. Its properties prevent the hair structure from being excessively damaged and enhance its strength and elasticity during the bleaching treatment. The advantages of Hbleach for hairstylists and their clients are evident since high bleaching performance can be obtained without using ammonia, typically contained in traditional bleaching products. The substitute for ammonium persulphate is sodium persulphate. The substitute does not cause the typical ammonia smell in this case either, moreover the ph of the hair is lower than that after an application with a classic powder containing ammonia. This data helps us to understand why the use of Hbleach proves less aggressive to the hair fibre allowing us to bleach even the most damaged hair. Hbleach has a formula designed to respect the protein properties of the hair fibre, which is left soft and strong even after bleaching. It is a compact powder which needs to be mixed with an oxidising cream at 20 volumes for medium and fair bases, at 30 and 40 volumes for dark and very dark bases. Once mixed it becomes a very soft creamy product, which doesn t drip. Doses: 1 or 2 measures of compact powder according to the quantity of hair to be colored, about cc. of oxidising cream 20, 30 and 40 volumes for each measure of compact powder used. The latter is enough to touch up regrowth and can be proportionally increased for total bleaching on the entire hair length. Processing time: from 20 to 45 minutes according to the intensity of bleaching required. This product has a progressive bleaching power. 39

40 Bleaching techniques Schiaritura Hcolor, Hcatalyst, Htone and Hbleach contain precious natural active ingredients: Cotton Proteins Cotton seeds are naturally rich in oils and proteins. Cotton is known for its high compatibility with skin and hair. Cotton proteins have excellent conditioning power and enhance hair softness. Hair looks healthier and shinier and is also easier to comb. Perilla Oil Bleaches perform an action to remove the natural color from hair. This procedure creates a decomposition of melanin inside the hair, enabling the lightening that will obtain the desired effect. During this process, hair goes through different degrees of lightening, from red until it arrives at a pale yellow. Example: if the level of tone desired is a 7, we only need to lighten to the 4th level of lightening (orange/yellow) and then use the color desired in a tone 7. HBleach performs its function perfectly when prepared using 2 measuring spoons of powder: 100 ml of developer. A phytotherapic plant from Chinese and Japanese traditional medicine rich in flavonoids with an allergy preventing action. It is contained in Hcolor to protect the client s skin and to reduce skin allergies and reddening. The development time to perform the complete function is 45 minutes. Use of a vaporizer may decrease development times; however, this must be done with extreme caution. Between one procedure and the next, we recommend washing hair with Hbalance shampoo and using Hrestore. Finally, apply Hbalance shampoo and Hbalance mask. 40

41 Bleaching techniques Application Htone Virgin Hair: apply first to half lengths and ends, starting from the darkest part. Allow to develop until the color lightens to 2/3 of the desired result. Prepare the product again using 20 volumes and then apply to the regrowth. Retouching: apply the product only to the part that has grown out. Never use more than 20 volumes on the scalp. On lengths use volumes of Hcatalyst. Start application with the darkest areas. Proceed as indicated in the instructions. Lightening Levels 7 Yellow White 6 Yellow 5 Golden 4 Orange 3 Red Orange 2 Red 1 Red / Violet Starting level Hbleach is an Ammonia free bleaching powder and we get 4-5 lightening levels. To boost lightening, we advise doubling the procedure by repeating twice and decreasing the development time into 2 applications with a duration of 30 minutes (utilizing the maximum of 30 volumes). 41

42 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color 11 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color Hsystem complements and perfects technical salon services. Four versatile products are available and ideal for every step in coloring. The formulas are rich in herbs and organic extracts, that promise perfect nourishment and the ideal ph balance for the hair fibre after the alkaline treatment. Hsystem, at the service of perfect color This exclusive line contains all the experience and knowledge of Rolland Research to help safeguard the health of the hair and scalp. Thanks to its special natural organic ingredients, such as Virgin Coconut oil and Orange Blossom extract, the Organic Way method handles every phase of the technical service, guaranteeing maximum results and giving hair its full body and radiance. Step in coloring Apply drops of Hscreen on the customer s skin (nape of the neck and temples) and on the hands of the person applying the treatment. Add 3-4 drops to the color mix before application, or apply directly to the skin in the case of eczema, small wounds, or sensitive areas. Blend Hcolor with the Hcatalyst activator (or Htone) in a ratio of 1:1.5 depending on the results you want to achieve. After the appropriate application time, rinse thoroughly. Then, apply Hbalance shampoo and massage. Rinse and repeat a second time. Apply Hbalance mask. Apply to damp hair previously washed with Hbalance shampoo. Distribute Hbalance mask evenly and leave for 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Spray thoroughly before proceeding with styling. Do not rinse. Especially in cases of depleted and damaged hair, apply Hrestore over all the hair, while dry, and even in the PRE COLOR phase, before using Hscreen. 42

43 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color Hsystem Hbalance Shampoo Benefits: - Rebalances ph and neutralises alkaline residues following chemical treatments. - Intense cleansing, restorative and antioxidant action thanks to the Organic coconut oil and the Organic orange blossom extract. - Formula enriched by the precious Hydrahair O2 complex and Moringa extract, which prolong the hair s shine and the duration of the color following technical treatments. - Has moisturising and nutritive properties that strengthen and protect the hair fibre, especially if sensitised. Ê Use: after having rinsed the chemical treatment out of hair, apply and massage. Rinse thoroughly and repeat a second time. Apply Hbalance mask. Hbalance Mask Benefits: - Specific conditioning and detangling treatment, includes an acidity regulator that restores the correct ph value to hair, sealing the cuticle scales after technical services. The natural complex of organic components, such as Coconut oil and Orange blossom extract, offers an intense anti-oxidising, restora-tive, and revitalising action. - Enhances shine and protects the stability of the color, preventing it from fading. Guarantees excellent manageability, nourished, soft and healthy hair after any technical service. Helps rebuild hair without weighing it down. Ê Use: apply to damp hair previously washed with Hbalance shampoo. Distribute product evenly and leave for 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Suggest for use only after alkaline treatments. Not indicated for daily use. Hscreen Benefits: - Exclusive formula that creates a specific protective film between the skin and the technical product. - Reduces the skin s sensitivity, preventing possible spots, allergies and reddening of the skin of those who receive the treatment and on the sensitive hands of those who perform the chemical services. - Protects and prevents the formation of blisters, burns, or cuts on the skin. - The hairdresser can use it in any service without interfering in the chemical process or compromising the result. - Complex of Coconut oil, Orange Blossom extract and Perilla oil, all from organic sources, guarantees excellent protective, nourishing and anti-oxidising action. - It is an ideal protector for all technical services (coloring, lightening, permanent, straightening). - Removes residues of glycerine, fixative products, and synthetic polymers (see use) for deep-down cleansing of the hair stem. 43

44 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color Hsystem - When applied to the weakened strands of very dry, damaged or dehydrated hair (see use), it visibly improves the appearance of the hair, which becomes healthy and shiny again. - It is easy to rinse away. Men can apply it after shaving to prevent dermatitis and folliculitis problems. Ê Use: To prevent color blotches: apply to forehead, temples and nape before technical treatment. To protect the skin or particular sensitive areas: add 3 or 4 drops to the chemical treatment or apply directly to the sensitive areas in question before application. To protect the hands: apply a few drops to the hands and spread evenly before beginning the procedure. To remove residues and achieve deep-down cleansing of the hair stem: apply to wet hair. Wear a cap and place under a heat source at medium temperature for 3 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and proceed with the specific Organic Way washing process. Hrestore Benefits: - Light and versatile concentrate that restores hair protein. - The natural protein-based formula simulates hair keratin, providing structure and body to the hair fibre and acting as a porosity balancer. - Product suitable for all types of hair, especially following chemical treatments. Helps the color last longer. - Thanks to the organic complex of Coconut oil, Orange blossom extract and Coix Lacrima Jobi extract, it nourishes the hair deep down, improving its resistance. - Specific treatment rich in moisturising and vitalising substances that do not add heaviness to the hair. - Restores the elements lost through external, chemical and mechanical aggressions to the hair fibre, improving its cosmetic qualities. - Excellent pre-styling product. Improves styling pliability and protects from sources of heat. Ê Use: spray on hair after any chemical treatment. Apply even before styling or while cutting. Do not rinse. 44

45 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color HSystem 45

46 Hypercolor, a new dimension of development times 12 Hypercolor, a new dimension of development times Hypercolor is a colour accelerator suitable for any type of hair colour. A revolution in the times of colour treatments in all salons. If applied under a source of heat reduces time by two thirds compared to the traditional methods, for example from 30 minutes to 10, without altering the height of tone or the result. A total gain in terms of economic savings and in the speed of the service offered to the client. This innovative product enables you to employ fewer working hours, which in turn means the possibility of carrying out more treatments. Offers your clients the advantage of receiving a hair-colouring treatment with much shorter waiting times. Hypercolor contains a blend of active principles and specific natural substances such as Olive oil, Monoi oil and Vitamin E, which make the highlights richer and more intense in colour while preserving them through time. In addition, its particular formula protects the hair fiber from external agents and protect against the stress of heat and oxidation. Hypercolor Hypercolor contains a blend of active principles and specific natural substances such as Olive oil, Monoi oil and Vitamin E, which make the highlights richer and more intense in colour while preserving them through time. 46

47 Hypercolor, a new dimension of development times Action mechanism Hypercolor protects the indirect pigments from the premature oxidation in the colouring mix. Consequently there will be a longer period in which the intermediate colouring agents can penetrate inside the cortex, before the oxidative reaction with the activator. Hypercolor also contains a natural emulsifier that makes it possible to create a water-in-oil emulsion composed of finer particles. This particular nature of the formula increases the wetting capacity of the mixture on the hair fibre and improves the scale opening phase, allowing the intermediate colouring agents to penetrate more quickly to the inside. Use Instructions for use: Add Hypercolor to the hair colouring mixture (colour + activator) according to the proportions: 30 ml = 5 drops, 90 ml = 15 drops, 120 ml = 20 drops, 180 ml = 30 drops. Hypercolor can be added to the mixture as follows: pour the colour required for the treatment into the bowl, then add the drops of Hypercolor calculated based on the total colouring mix + activator (i.e. 20 drops if the colouring mix + activator foreseen is 120 ml) and, finally, add the activator. Hypercolor can also be added following colour + activator. The important thing is that these three elements be added and mixed very quickly, without losing time. The completed mixture should be applied on the hair right away. Hypercolor is in a 60 ml bottle, 1 ml = 30 drops. For medium lenghts needs 20 drops, so the salon by a bottle of Hypercolor can realize 80 colouring treatments (great economical gain). After applying the mixture of colour and the disposable cap, add low heat. Remove the source of heat and the cap. Let the hair cool before rinsing. Decreases the traditional application times from 30 minutes to 10 minutes, and from 45 minutes to 15 minutes. NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Rice Bran Oil (Oryza Sativa) The oil that is extracted from rice contains a natural UV filter, filtering the harmful part of the sun s rays that attack our hair every day. This natural filter contained in the oil is Gamma Oryzanol. Rice oil is also an excellent emollient and protective agent; it has a low degree of oiliness and is especially suited for cosmetic use. Monoi Oil This oil is prepared in the Polynesian islands, steeping Tiare flowers in coconut oil. Historical documents attest to the existence and daily use of this scented oil in the Polynesian culture. This oil is the ideal product for the care and embellishment of the skin and hair. Excellent moisturiser and UV protector used alone or in combination with other vegetable-based oils. Vitamin E Vitamin E has an antioxidant function, i.e. it impedes cell oxidation and the formation of free radicals, one of the biggest causes of damage to the hair. Free radicals are molecules damaged by external environmental causes and by continuous chemical treatments. 47

48 FAQs 13 Frequency Ask Question Ê IS THE LIGHTENING ACTION INCREASED IF I INCREASE THE RATIO FROM 1:2 TO 1:3? Hcolour has been formulated for use at 1: If we need to lighten more, we suggest increasing the volumes, incorporating the 0.0 corrector or using the Superlightening series. Ê HOW MUCH IS THE LIGH- TENING ACTION INCREASED BY USING THE 0.0 CORREC- TOR? It depends on the percentage used even 2 levels (tones). Ê HOW DO I PROPORTION THE QUANTITY OF COR- RECTOR? The best results are obtained by substituting up to 6% of the Hcolour cream with the corrector. Using less than 6% will not produce very visi-ble results. Ê CAN I USE THE CORREC- TORS BY THEMSELVES? The correctors have been formulated to be used in combination with the Hcolor shades. If used alone, they may give transparent, incomplete results. Ê CAN I USE A DIFFERENT DEVE- LOPER THAN THAT RECOMMENDED FOR EVERY HCOLOUR PRODUCT? Substituting developers is never recommended, since the components of each developer have been formulated to work in synergy with its counterpart. Hcatalyst and Htone are all much more than just hydrogen peroxides; they are a complex blend of ingredients with natural active components and feature a specific ph to ensure viscosity, nourishment to the hair and colour performance to each Hcolour and Htone product they correspond to. Ê HOW CAN I INCREASE COVE- RAGE IF I FAIL TO OBTAIN THE DESIRED RESULT? If coverage of grey/white hair is not perfect, then something in the application has gone wrong. Please see the chapter Special Applications : the highlight shade was used without mixing it with the natural or warm series; the mixture did not use a 1:1 ratio; the product was not applied immediately; in case of a very noticeable zone of grey hair that is difficult to treat, the pre-pigmentation step was not carried out; the shade used was too light, the development time was not observed, the colour was distributed inadequately and irregularly; if the roots were to be covered, the colour was distributed too fast along the lengths and ends, making the roots appear lighter and the lengths and ends darker (colour overload); the hair was too dirty and oily (better to do a delicate pre-wash with OW Daily Shampoo); the mixture used a developer with low volumes with respect to the residues of natural colour (insufficient lightening of natural hair in case of salt and pepper hair). Ê HOW CAN I PREVENT THAT THE COLOUR DOESN T HOLD WELL? Check that: the development time is correct - if it is too short, the pigments do not develop completely; the colour has been applied to the lengths and ends too late; the hair has an extreme porosity that does not allow the oxidizing pigments to remain in the fibres of the cortex; with bleached or stressed hair, re-pigmentation was not carried out before colouring; only highlight shade without the addition of natural shade was used in case of a high percentage of grey, difficult to treat hair; incorrect application with an insufficient quantity of product especially in porous areas. Ê HOW DO I AVOID COLOUR FROM ENDING UP TOO DARK? Check that the ratio with the developer is correct, that the correct developer was used, if there was an incorrect diagnosis, that the shade chose was to dark or the starting colour was not evaluated correctly; pre-pigmentation or re-pigmentation was correct, or that the development time was incorrect because it was too long. Ê WHY DID THE COLOUR END UP TOO LIGHT? The colour was not mixed with the developer in the ratio 1:11 2 (less colour and more developer); an oxidizer in too low a concentration was used (e.g., instead of 20 volumes, 30 volumes was used); there was an incorrect diagnosis: too light a shade was chosen, incorrect evaluation on the base to start from; pre-pigmentation was done with a colour that was too light; re-pigmentation was done with a nuance that was too light. Ê WHY DOES THE COLOUR AP- PEAR DULL OR OPAQUE? If 100% of the grey/hair is to be covered, we recommend adding 10% of a golden nuance; if the starting base was light, perhaps too cold a nuance was chosen; the superlightener colour, ash or beige, when applied to 48

49 FAQs the regrowth was distributed along previously lightened lengths and ends; the pre-pigmentation of grey hair was done with cold nuances. Ê WHAT WAS THERE AN OVER- LOAD OF COLOUR? The colouring mixture was distributed too soon on lengths and ends; the mix for difficult hair was applied to the lengths and ends that were already coloured. Ê IF LENGTHS AND ENDS TURNED OUT LIGHTER, WHAT WENT WRONG IN THE APPLICA- TION? The colour mixture was distributed too late along the lengths and ends, and the degree of fading was not evaluated properly; in the case of stressed hair, re-pigmentation was not performed before colouring; the lengths and ends are so porous that the pigments do not take hold even with a re-pigmentation, therefore an OW Reconstruction treatment should be performed. Ê THE COLOUR WAS DARKER IN THE OUTLINES AT FRONT. WHAT WENT WRONG? The pre-pigmentation was incorrect, the nuance selected was too dark; application was incorrect, first in front, then in back. Ê THE COLOUR IRRITATED THE SCALP OF THE CUSTOMER. WHY? Either the scalp is not whole, or there is balding, the mixture ratio was not observed (more colour, less oxidizer), incorrect application, i.e., hair combed closed to the head during development time. Ê WHAT IS USED IN PLACE OF AMMONIA IN HCOLOUR AND HBLEACH? Hcolour s special formula contains Ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with different chemical-physical structure with respect to ammonia. Its molecular weight is greater than ammonia s and as a result, there is no evaporation of amines, no unpleasant odours, and no physical intolerances caused by breathing in ammonium hydrates. This molecule that replaces ammonia, because it is larger, remains and acts on the surface of the cuticle and is less aggressive to the cortex. The substitute of ammonium persulphate in Hbleach is sodium persulphate. Here too, the substitute does not cause the classic ammonia odour and the ph of the hair remains lower than an application with classic powder containing ammonia. Ê HOW CAN I INCREASE THE GOLDEN HIGHLIGHT WHEN CO- VERING GREY/WHITE HAIR? You can add golden corrector up to a maximum of 6% of the mixture. Ê HOW CAN I INCREASE THE ASH HIGHLIGHT? You can add the ash corrector up to a maximum of 6% of the mixture. Ê CAN I USE HYPERCOLOUR WHEN BLEACHING? We recommend using Hypercolour with colour treatments using oxidization and not with bleaching, which is a process that must be controlled visually and for which is difficult to establish the reduction of time with precision. Ê IF MORE DROPS OF HYPER- COLOUR GO INTO THE BOWL BY MISTAKE, WHAT WILL HAPPEN TO THE COLOUR? Hypercolour is a mixture containing many oils that nourish the hair, so nothing will happen in case a few more drops of colour end up in the bowl, but an excessive amount is to be avoided. Ê CAN HSCREEN ALTER THE FORMULA OF THE COLOUR? Hscreen protects the scalp and does not alter the formula or performance of the colour in any way. 49

50 Glossary 14 Glossary Ê COLOR CLEANSING Procedure used to stop previously used progressive dyes from becoming active and processing again. Ê COLOR REMOVAL Technique used to remove color pigments in hair. Ê CONTIGUOUS Touching and remaining in contact. Ê MORDANTING PROCESS Technique used to increase hair s receptiveness to consequent cosmetic services. Ê DEVELOPER Is an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, that provides the necessary oxygen for the formation of color molecules and the lightening of melanin. Ê DOMINANT PIGMENT The underlying pigment that becomes increasingly visible when hair is lightened. Ê DOUBLE PROCESS Is generally referred to the coloring of hair when two services are required in order to achieve the desired result, i.e. bleaching and toning. Ê ELASTICITY The ability to stretch and return to the original length or form. Ê EPIDERMIS The skins outermost layer. Ê EXTENSIBILITY The ability to stretch out while remaining intact. Ê FREE RADICALS A molecule generated by the organism that provokes cellular damage. Ê INTERCELLULAR PEROXIDASE Reaction caused by external agents that cause the loosening of bonds between proteins and lipids. Ê LEVEL In hair coloring it is used to refer to the degree of lightness or darkness of the hair on a scale from 1 to 10: 1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest. Ê MELANIN Dark brown or black pigments found in the hair cortex that creates natural hair color. Melanin is also found in skin. Ê POROSITY The ability to absorb water. Ê PRE-LIGHTEN The removal of hair pigments, natural or artificial, in preparation for the application of a different tone or level. Ê PRE-PIGMENTATION Technique of applying pure color to resistant high grey areas, before applying the target shade formula. Ê RE-PIGMENTATION Technique used on lightened hair to replace lost warm pigments before proceeding with the application of a darker tone. Ê SAFETY RANGE A range of levels in which natural hair can be lightened or darkened in one process with 100% control. Ê SATURATION The amount of color intermediates deposited in the hair. Ê SQUAMAE A layer of very thin flattened cells; scales. 50 Ê HYDROGEN PEROXIDE Oxidizing agent. Ê HYDROPHILLIC Having a tendency to be filled with or be wetted by water. Ê TARGET SHADE The desired finished color result. The aim.

51 Note

52