Chemical Texture Services. Chapter 20 Notes

Transcription

1 Chemical Texture Services Chapter 20 Notes

2 O The double-rod wrap technique is also called the piggyback wrap. O Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. O The hydrogen ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.

3 O Keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in a semipermanent manner; they do not break bonds. O The range of numbers used in the ph scale is 0 to 14. O Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the ph of the hair in order to soften and swell the shaft.

4 O The cortex layer of the hair structure is responsible for the hair s strength and elasticity. O The term ph is an abbreviation used for potential hydrogen. O Hydrogen bonds can be broken by water, whereas salt bonds are broken by changes in ph.

5 O The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are croquignole and spiral. O In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from ends to scalp. O Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.

6 O All acid waves have three components consisting of the permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and activator. O Most acid waves used in salons have a ph value between 7.8 and 8.2. O Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up processing.

7 O During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is insufficiently relaxed. O The application for chemical relaxers should be started in the most resistant area, usually the back of the head. O Normalizing lotion is a conditioner with an acidic ph that restores the hair s natural ph after a hydroxide relaxer.

8 O The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide. O The weave technique uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. O Japanese thermal straightening combines use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing.

9 O Hydrogen bonds are easily broken by water or heat and are re-formed when the hair is dried. O In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the: wrapping method. O Straight rods are rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.

10 O A soft curl permanent is a combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods. O The loop rod is also known as the circle rod. O Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of abrasions.

11 Half Way.

12 O The most common reducing agents used are thioglycolic acids. O Ammonium thioglycolate is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves. O Most alkaline permanent waves have a ph between 9.0 and 9.6.

13 O Guanidine hydroxide relaxers contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use. O The concave rod is the most common type of perm rod. O Hydroxide relaxers that do not require the application of a protective base are no-base relaxers.

14 O Acid-balanced permanent waves have a 7.0 or neutral ph. O Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod during a spiral perm wrap. O A basic permanent wrap is also known as a straight set wrap.

15 O Waves that are activated from an outside heat source are considered endothermic. O All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels. O Hair that has too many disulfide bonds broken and will not hold a firm curl is considered overprocessed.

16 O The tough exterior layer of the hair is the cuticle layer. O In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is highly alkaline. O Chemical side bonds formed when two sulfurtype chains are joined together are: disulfide bonds.

17 O Thio neutralizing is the process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form. O Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. O Bricklay permanent wrap base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits, in which wrapping pattern.

18 O Potassium hydroxide relaxers are often marketed and sold as no mix no lye relaxers. O Amino acid is a compound made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen nitrogen, and sulfur. O Long, coiled polypeptide chains are made of keratin proteins.

19 Almost

20 O In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called base sections. O Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional stress and tension on the hair. O Alkaline waves are also known as cold waves.

21 O Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for permanent waving and will not hold a curl. O Half off-base placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair. O A chemical texture service is the process of chemically altering the natural wave pattern of hair.

22 O Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n) lanthionine bond. O The double flat wrapping technique provides the most control over hair ends. O Relaxers that contain only one component and are used without mixing are metal hydroxide relaxers.

23 O In permanent waving, the size of the rod determines the size of the curl. O The main active ingredient in true acid and acidbalanced waving lotions is glyceryl monothioglycolate. O The bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.

24 O Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with thio relaxers. O In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of hydrogen. O The base direction is the angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head.

25 One more slide

26 O Thio-free waves use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine. O The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its reducing agent. O The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of hydroxide.

27 The End