OYA Blonds & Sunshimmers

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1 OYA Blonds & Sunshimmers OYA Presentation Prep: KEEP IN MIND THAT SOME SLIDES INCLUDE ANIMATIONS OF CONTENT AND NOT ALL CONTENT WITHIN A SLIDE WILL APPEAR UNTIL YOU CLICK. HAVE THE OYA TOOLS, STRAND CHART, AND LIGHTENER GUIDE, KISS, ETC., AVAILBLE FOR VISUAL AID AND REFERENCE. Script Key 14 pt. font bold underlined text Beginning of PowerPoint slide ITALIC CAPITALIZED TEXT DIRECTION: ACTION. DO NOT READ ALOUD. 12 pt. font- non B I U text Dialogue guide & slide content Fuchsia bold text Emphasize Introduction: (Slide 2) Hi, my name is, your OYA Expert for today s class. Thank you for giving OYA this time today. Course Overview: (Slide 3) Here is an overview about OYA s blonds and sunshimmers: Structure of hair Hair texture Patch test Introduction to OYA blonds Basic color theory OYA Color Globe-KISS System OYA Lightening Techniques OYA Gray Coverage for Blonds OYA Lightener Guide OYA High Lift Blond Series OYA Creative Foiling OYA Lightening Cream OYA Lightening Powder OYA Sunshimmers OYA Toner Inspirations with OYA Demi Permanent Color OYA Lotions Emulsifying Tools The OYA Colorist App 1

2 Structure of hair: (Slide 4) Understanding the structure of hair will help you visualize what happens when hair is colored. Hair is divided into 3 distinct layers: Cuticle - this is the window to the hair colorist world. This is where OYA Demi Permanent Color lives. The outer part of the hair consists of layers of keratinized protein, protecting the soft inner cortex. The importance of keeping the integrity and strength of this cuticle layer should not be understated. When the cuticle is intact, you have excellent color retention and shine. Cortex - this is the space inside the hair strand where hair color will be altered or changed permanently. The cortex is the largest part of the hair where all the chemical and physical processes take place when it comes to OYA Permanent Color. Inside the cortex there are two types of melanin that affect artificial color and are of the utmost importance to the hair colorist, they are: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is the melanin responsible for the darkness or lightness of the hair being brown or black. The large molecules naturally occur in the cortex and are easy to lift and remove. Low concentrations of eumelanin result in lighter colored hair and high concentrations of eumelanin result in darker colored hair. Pheomelanin is the naturally occurring yellow and red pigments found in warm hair colors. The small molecules exist in the cortex and are difficult to lift or remove. Pheomelanin creates a foundation for artificial color pigments especially when you are coloring gray hair. Gray hair is the lack of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Medulla - most inner structure of the hair shaft. When over processed, it affects the integrity of structure. When the medulla structure is compromised, the result is faster fading and difficulty in achieving complete coverage. Hair Texture: (Slide 5) Fine Texture: Smallest circumference, easy to process and can be over-processed very easily Medium Texture: Mid-sized circumference, no special considerations for processing Coarse Texture: Largest circumference, harder to process and can be resistant to color Determining your customer s hair texture will assist you with your hair color formulations in 3 ways: Fine textured hair has less space to fill so you may need to formulate up by 1 level Medium textured should be formulated per manufacturers recommendations Coarse textured hair has more space to fill so you may need to formulate down 1 level 2

3 Texture affects timing. Coarser texture may require additional timing for gray coverage Color Application & Safety Perform a Patch Test: (Slide 6) Even though OYA is gentle, it is important for the safety and comfort of your customers to perform a patch test. Each box of color contains a paper insert with simple instructions on how to execute a patch test, located under sensitivity test. Blonds: (Slide 7) Each of the OYA color series has blond shades: -0 (N) natural -01 (A) ash -04 (B) beige -5 (G) gold -6 (M) mahogany -7 (C) copper -8 (R) red -87 (RC) red copper -9 (V) violet 12- high lift blond The Basic Color Theory The Color Wheel & Primary Colors: (Slide 8) Any color is based on the universal law of color. The color wheel is your greatest tool for understanding these laws. The laws of the color wheel are finite and never change. Knowing these laws will be your greatest asset. Understanding the universal law of color is a prerequisite to success as a colorist. The universal law of color states that mixing different combinations of the three primary colors can create any and all colors. The primary colors are: red, yellow, and blue. 3

4 Primary colors cannot be mixed by any other colors. However, primary colors can mix every other color. This is why they are considered principal colors and the most important to know. The Basic Color Theory Secondary Colors: (Slide 9) When we look at the color wheel, yellow always appears at the top. By mixing equal portions of 2 primary colors, a secondary color is created. Each secondary color lives on the wheel in-between the two primary colors that created it. The 3 secondary colors are: green, orange and violet. blue + yellow = green yellow + red = orange red + blue = violet The Basic Color Theory Tertiary Colors: (Slide 10) By mixing a primary color with a secondary color, that live next to each other on the wheel, a tertiary color is created. The tertiary colors are: yellow-green yellow-orange red-orange red-violet blue-violet blue-green The Basic Color Theory Brown or Neutral Tones: (Slide 11) Mixing equal portions of all three primary colors, will result in brown. In the hair color world, this is called a neutral. Brown (or neutral) is where the OYA natural series lives. There are many ways to make a neutral tone. 4

5 The Basic Color Theory The Color Wheel Opposites: (Slide 12) The color wheel is a tool used to help visualize color theory. The 3 primary colors are arranged around the wheel with their secondary and tertiary colors between them. Colors that appear opposite of each other on the wheel neutralize each other (make brown). Violet & yellow neutralize each other. Blue & orange neutralize each other. Green & red neutralize each other. In the color theory world these are called color opposites. This is another way to make a neutral tone. The Basic Color Theory Opposites: (Slide 13) Notice that the opposite of a primary color is always a secondary color: Violet (secondary) is the opposite of yellow (primary) Orange (secondary) is the opposite of blue (primary) Green (secondary) is the opposite of red (primary) We know that a secondary color is the combination of 2 primary colors. Example: orange = red + yellow The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 14) When mixing a primary color with a secondary color, you are truly mixing all three primary colors together. Mixing opposites example: violet (secondary) + yellow (primary) is the same as blue (primary) + red (primary) + yellow (primary) = brown or neutral In other words: (primary + primary + primary) = neutral As started before, mixing all primary colors results in brown or neutral. 5

6 The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 15) If you ever need to remember the opposite of a primary color, mix the other two primaries together and you know its opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of blue, we know the other two primaries are yellow and red o If we mix yellow and red together we get orange o Orange is blue s opposite If you ever need to remember the opposite of a secondary color, think of which two primary colors mix together to make that secondary color. Whatever primary color is not in the secondary color is its opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of green we need to know that blue and yellow make green. Blue and yellow are primaries. The only primary color not in green is red. Red is green s opposite. The Basic Color Theory Warm Tones & Cool Tones: (Slide 16) If we split the wheel in half we see that one side is warm and one side is cool. Also, notice how all color opposites include one cool color and one warm color. For example: red and green, red lives on the warm side of the wheel, green lives on the cool side. This contract of warm vs. cool is what helps opposites neutralize each other. When coloring hair, first determine where the customer s existing color lives on the wheel. This will dictate whether you will enhance the color or neutralize the existing color. The OYA Color Globe Where the Series Live: (Slide 17) When using OYA, it is important to know where each color lives in the universal color wheel. This will allow you to see if the color/shade lives in the cool, warm or neutral part of the color wheel. 6

7 Natural Color Levels of Hair: (Slide 18) Natural hair levels, or depth of darkness, is universal. This is the shade that is naturally occurring on any person s hair. Levels begin as dark as black to as light as an ultra light blond: Determining a customer s natural level is vital to successful formulating. If the target shade level is three levels or more then the natural level, the colorist must know the underlying pigment at the target level. This information is crucial to enhancing or neutralizing the warmth in the underlying pigment. Underlying Pigment Levels: (Slide 19) When lightening natural hair, a spectrum of warm tones, called underlying pigments, are exposed. Each time a level is lightened or stripped away it reveals a lighter tone, ranging on a spectrum fro red to pale yellow. This is important when lifting 3 levels or more. These warm tones are different at each natural level and will influence the final color result every time. 7

8 Blonds: (Slide 20) Blond colors exist from levels 6 to level 10: 6 = Dark Blond (underlying pigment orange gold) 7 = Medium Blond (underlying pigment gold) 8 = Light Blond (underlying pigment yellow/gold) 9 = Extra Light Blond (underlying pigment yellow) 10= Ultra Light Blond (underlying pigment pale yellow The greatest challenge when creating a perfect blond result is controlling underlying pigment. Pay close attention when creating blond results by formulating accordingly to control the underlying pigment. The OYA Color Globe The OYA -01 Ash Series: (Slide 21) The OYA -01 ash series exists in the cool tones ranging from green to blue to violet on the color globe. The OYA -01 ash series is designed to neutralize the warmth of each level of the underlying pigments. For example: If we needed to neutralize a level 6 orange gold underlying pigment, the OYA color globe indicates that we would use a We know this simply by following the arrow across the color globe. This is why knowing our color opposites is so valuable. Red & green Yellow & purple Orange & blue 8

9 KISS Keep It Simple System: (Slide 22) Welcome to the first section of the new and improved OYA KISS Keep It Simple System, the greatest tool you will ever use when formulating with OYA. This comprehensive graph has answers to all the information you will need before you formulate. Every OYA shade is displayed in its location on the OYA color globe, indicating what its color base is. The underlying pigment levels are displayed along the top edge ranging from pale yellow to red along the warm tones of the color globe. In correspondence with the underlying pigments we see the natural color levels of the hair ranging from 10 being the lightest to 1 being the darkest. We also see the same arrows we saw before that help indicate the exact opposite of each underlying pigment and also the opposite of each natural hair color level. Understanding how to read this tool is a great asset to all who use OYA. 9

10 KISS Coloring Lighter 3 Options: (Slide 23) When coloring lighter with OYA there are three potential options to choose from. Those options are: Option 1: 100% gray coverage series Option 2: Fashion series less than 50% gray coverage Option 3: Fashion series more than 50% gray coverage Let s review each individual option together starting with 100% gray coverage series. KISS Coloring Lighter 100% Gray Coverage Series: (Slide 24) With this option, you don t need to worry about the percentage of gray. Why? Well, because no matter what, the OYA 100% gray coverage series performs. Always! FLIP OPEN THE SECOND FLAP TO REVEAL THE CHART. The three, 100% gray coverage series are: -0 natural, -01 ash, and -04 beige. We do not show the -00 (N) natural + series since these are designed to use only for working with resistant gray hair. We will get into the details of how to use this series later. When lifting only 1 level, there is just 1 formula to follow for all 3 series: Mix the target shade with OYA lotion 20 vol. at a 1:1 ratio. Let s review OYA lotion volumes one more time. When lifting 2 levels, the same formula is used for all three 100% gray coverage series. Mix the target shade with OYA lotion. The only difference is the different lotions used in the regrowth formula and the mid length & ends formula: 20 vol. for regrowth, 30 vol. for mid length & ends. For the regrowth formula, use a lower hydrogen peroxide % because the heat off of the scalp will accelerate the lifting process. So, for all 3 series, mix the target shade with 20 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix the target shade with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends. When lifting 3 levels, you will start to encounter the effect of the underlying pigments. Remember, these underlying pigments will reveal warmth that you may not desire for the target shade. Therefore, you will need to neutralize their impact by using cooler shades. The -0 (N) natural series is a special case. For the -0 (N) series, instead of using the natural target shade, use the corresponding -01 (A) ash shade to prevent the color result from being too warm. The -01 (A) ash will neutralize the warm and give you the natural -0 look you desire. Let s go over an example together: 10

11 o For example: Our target shade is OYA permanent 8-0 (N) natural with a natural level 5! The underlying pigment of their target level 8 is yellow. Refer to your OYA KISS color globe to view this. When lifting 3 levels, the warmth of the yellow will show up and will prevent you from achieving the desired natural look. The only way to get the natural shade is to neutralize the yellow.! On a level 8, you would neutralize with an 8-01 (A) ash in order to achieve a beautiful, natural result of an 8-0 (N) (A) ash has a violet base. Remember violet and yellow are opposites on the color wheel. They neutralize each other perfectly every time. Always consider the heat from the scalp while using lotions. When lifting three levels to achieve the -0 (N) target shade, mix the -01 (A) ash series with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth, and 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends. When lifting 3 levels with the -01 (A) ash series, simply use the target shade with the 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth and 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends. Since the -01 (a) ash series is cool by nature, it will effectively counter any underlying pigments warmth. If necessary, you can add concentrates to help neutralize even more. When lifting 3 levels with the -04 (B) beige series, instead of using the beige target shade, use the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to prevent the color result from being too warm. Let s go over an example together: o For example: The target shade is OYA permanent 8-04 (B) beige with a natural level is 5.! The underlying pigment of the target level 8 is yellow. When lifting 3 levels, the warmth of the yellow is revealed. In this case the only way to achieve this target shade would be to support, rather than neutralize the yellow by using an 8-0 (N) natural in order to achieve a beautiful, beige result of an 8-04 (b) beige. Again, always consider the heat from the scalp when using lotions. So, when lifting 3 levels with the -04 (B) beige as a target shade, mix the -0 (N) natural series with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth and mix the -0 (N) natural series with 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends. When lifting 4 levels or more, pre-lighten for minutes to 1 level above the target shade and always use 20 vol. OYA lotion. 11

12 KISS Coloring Lighter < 50% Gray: (Slide 25) Let s move on to coloring lighter with the fashion series for less than 50% gray coverage. When lifting only 1 level, there is just 1 formula to follow for all series. Mix the target shade with 20 vol. OYA lotion in a 1:1 ratio. When lifting 2 levels, the same formula is used for all fashion series. Mix the target shade with OYA lotion. The only difference is the different lotions in the regrowth formula and the mid lengths & ends. For the regrowth formula, use a lower hydrogen peroxide % because the heat off the scalp will accelerate the lifting power of the hydrogen peroxide. o So, for all fashion series, mix the target shade with 20 vol. OYA lotions for the regrowth application and mix the target shade with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends application. When lifting 3 levels, all fashion series except for the gold series perform the same way. Simply mix the target shade with OYA lotion. The only difference is the different lotions used in the regrowth and the mid lengths & ends. o So, for all fashion series, mix the target shade with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix the target shade with 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends application. o Exception: With the -5 (G) gold series we recommend not using the gold target shade. Instead, use the corresponding level -04 (B) beige series to avoid an overly warm color result. The beige series will help support the warmth in the underlying pigment, which is necessary to achieve the target gold shade. Mix the 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix with the 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid lengths & ends application. When lifting 4 levels, use the exact same formula when lifting 3 levels. Just add the 0-00 blonding cream to the formula to achieve one more level of lift. When lifting 5 levels or more, pre-lighten the hair first before depositing the desired target shade. Always pre-lighten for minutes to 1 level above the target shade and always use 20 vol. OYA lotion. KISS Coloring Lighter > 50% Gray: (Slide 26) Lastly we have coloring lighter with the fashion series for hair with more than 50% gray. When working with more than 50% gray hair, we can easily split the OYA fashion series into 3 groups. They are: 1. The cool fashion series: violet series 2. The warm fashion series: gold, copper, red and red copper series 3. The balanced fashion series: mahogany series (which is both warm and cool) 12

13 Let s go through these three groups one at a time. 1. For the cool (V) violet OYA fashion series use the same formula as working with less than 50% gray. Just add the gray coverage series into the mix: For 1 level of lift, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to the mix For 2 levels of lift, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to the mix For 3 levels of lift, add the corresponding -01 (A) ash shade to it. The ash will support the violet perfectly. For 4 levels of lift or more, with any fashion series you must pre-lighten 1 level above the target shade with lightening powder. Then deposit the target shade with either OYA permanent or OYA demi permanent color. Always take porosity into account when deciding on which type of color to use. Depending on the condition of the hair you may sometimes use demi and sometimes use permanent. 2. For all warm OYA fashion series (gold, copper, red, and red copper), use the same formula as working with less than 50% gray, just add a gray covering series into the mix. For these warm series, add the corresponding -04 (B) beige series. The warmth of the -04 (B) beige series perfectly supports the warmth that is desired. For 1 level of lift, add the corresponding level -04 (B) beige series to the mix For 2 levels of lift, add the corresponding level -04 (B) beige series to the mix For 3 levels of lift, with any warm fashion series, add the corresponding level - 04 (B) beige series to it For 4 levels of lift or more, with any fashion series you must pre-lighten 1 level above the target shade with lightening powder. Then deposit the target shade with either OYA permanent or OYA demi permanent color. Always take porosity into account when deciding on which type of color to use. Depending on the condition of the hair sometimes you may want to use demi or sometimes you may want to use permanent. 3. For the perfectly balanced -6 (M) mahogany series, it is both cool and warm and is shown closest to the neutral center of the color wheel. For 1 level of lift, add the corresponding -01 (N) natural shade to the mix For 2 levels of lift, add the corresponding -01 (N) natural shade to it For 3 levels of lift, with the mahogany series, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to it. For 4 levels of lift or more, with any fashion series you must pre-lighten 1 level above the target shade with lightening powder. Then deposit the target shade with either OYA permanent or OYA demi permanent color. Always take porosity into account when deciding on which type of color to use. Depending on the condition of the hair sometimes you may want to use demi or sometimes you may want to use permanent. Review & Q&A: (Slide 27) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. 13

14 OYA Lightening Techniques: (Slide 28) For 1-2 Levels of Lift and Tone: OYA Lightening Rinse o OYA Lightening Powder + 20 vol. OYA Lotion + shampoo (1:1:1) o Use on damp hair, and apply first on darkest area, avoiding regrowth. Timing will be visual For up to 4 Levels: OYA Lightening Cream + 10, 20, 30, or 40 vol. OYA Lotion o Mix with equal portions of 10, 20, 30, or 40 vol. OYA Lotion For up to 7 Levels: OYA Lightening Powder + OYA Lotion (1:2), then tone or use target shade formula OYA Lightening Cream works best when you need to shift the tone or lift 1-2 levels. It will lift old color, worn color. Not recommended on new color. Pre-lightening and toning is the preferred method when you need more than 4 levels of lift. This is an all over color effect instead of a highlighted effect. Never use heat and never 40 vol. OYA Lotion with the OYA Lightening Powder. Lift to one level lighter than desired shade. OYA Blond Shades Made Easy Virgin Application: (Slide 29) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Regrowth: Process: Mid lengths & Ends: Process: Total Process: Result: 8-0 (N) Natural Light Blond 5 Light Brown less than 50% gray 30g 8-0 (N) + 30g 30 vol. OYA Lotion minutes 60g 8-0 (N) + 60g 40 vol. OYA Lotion minutes minutes Natural Light Blond OYA Gray Coverage for Blonds: (Slide 30) 100% Gray Coverage Series: -0 (N) Natural -00 (N + ) Natural Plus -01 (A) Ash -04 (B) Beige 50% Gray Coverage Series: -5 (G) Gold -6 (M) Mahogany 14

15 -7 (C) Copper -8 (R) Red -87 (RC) Red Copper -9 (V) Violet OYA Gray Coverage for Blonds: (Slide 31) The OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series provides effective, shiny, youthful-looking results. There are 4 different series to choose from. When you re formulating, if the hair is more than 50% gray, mix the OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series with your target color to produce your desired result with complete gray coverage. For example, a customer with more than 50% gray would like to be a 7-7(C). Your regrowth formula would be 20g 7-7(C) + 10g 7-04 (B) + 30g 20 vol. For a customer with 90% or more gray, use equal portions: 15g 7-7 (C) + 15g 7-04 (B) + 30g 20 vol. OYA Lotion. The OYA -00 (N) + Natural Plus Series is a tool for covering resistant gray hair and should not be used alone. Always intermix with another OYA Shade for best results. For example, for a customer with 90% resistant gray and a target shade of 7-7 (C), use 20g g 7-04 (B) + 5g 7-00 (N + ) + 30g 20 vol. OYA Lotion on their regrowth. -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Contains more pigment and higher ammonia content. OYA Gray Coverage for Blonds: Virgin Application: (Slide 32) Step 1: Target shade 9-5 (G) Gold Extra Light Blond Step 2: Natural level 7 Natural Medium Brown Step 3: Percentage of gray more than 50% gray Regrowth: Mid lengths & ends: Process: Result: 20g 9-5 (G) + 10g 9-04 (B) + 30g 20 vol. OYA Lotion 40g 9-5 (G) + 20g 9-04 (B) + 60g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 45 minutes Gold Extra Light Blond OYA Lightener Guide: (Slide 33) GESTURE TO DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF THE CHART Everything you will ever need to know to rock OYA Lightening products is contained in the OYA Lightener Guide. The OYA Lightener Guide will give you an overview of the information needed to formulate with OYA Lightening products, OYA Permanent Color, and OYA Demi Permanent Color. The Lightener Guide will pin up in your dispensary. 15

16 Creating High Lift Blonds: (Slide 34) The OYA High Lift Blond Series create beautiful blond tones in one step on natural levels 6 through level 9. The color consistency is perfect for any foiling technique and provides excellent results when used as an all over blond. Green Tea and Sea Kelp provide maximum shine and protection (N) Natural High Lift Blond 12-1 (A) Ash High Lift Blond 12-4 (B) Beige High Lift Blond 12-9 (V) Violet High Lift Blond Mix ratio: 1:2 with 30 or 40 vol. OYA Lotion Process: minutes Formulating Made Easy Foil Virgin Application: (Slide 35) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Regrowth: Mid lengths & ends: Process: Result: (B) Beige Ultra Light Blond 7 Medium Blond less than 50% gray 30g (B) + 30g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 30g (B) + 30g 40 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Beige Ultra Light Blond Formulating Made Easy Virgin Application: (Slide 36) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Regrowth: Mid lengths & ends: Process: Result: 12-0 (N) Natural High Lift Blond 6 Dark Blond less than 50% gray 30g 12-0 (N) + 60g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 30g 12-0 (N) + 60g 40 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Natural High Lift Blond 16

17 Formulating Made Easy - Foil Application - Virgin: (Slide 37) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Foil regrowth: Foil mid lengths & ends: Process: Result: 12-4 (B) Beige High Lift Blond 7 Medium Blond less than 50% gray 30g 12-4 (B) + 60g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 30g 12-4 (B) + 60g 40 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Natural Beige Highlights Do NOT fold foils. Review & Q&A: (Slide 38) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. OYA Creative Foiling: (Slide 39) Creative foiling is a perfect way to create dimension with color. You gain the ability to lighten selected strands of hair, which opens the doors to creating a signature pattern. You also gain additional lift with color in the foils. The human scalp, on average, releases 98.6 degrees. This heat is retained within the foil, allowing the heat to behave as a catalyst. This results in additional lift. Creating Blonds: OYA Lightening Cream 0-00: (Slide 40) 0-00 OYA Lightening Cream is a versatile product that can be utilized in 2 ways: Stand alone lightening: Up to 4 levels of lift on virgin hair Mix ratio: 1:1 with 10, 20, 30 or 40 vol. OYA Lotion 1 extra level of lift with any OYA Permanent Shade: Mix ratio: 20g OYA Lightening Cream + 40g OYA Shade + 60g OYA Lotion Process: minutes 17

18 Creating Blonds: OYA Lightening Cream 0-00: (Slide 41) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Regrowth: Mid lengths & ends: Process: 9-5 (G) Gold Extra Light Blond 5 Light Brown less than 50% gray 40g 9-04 (B) + 20g g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 40g 9-04 (B) + 20g g 40 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Utilize the 9-04 (B) with the 0-00 in order to achieve a 9-5 (G). The beige tone will control the warmth of the underlying pigment needed to create your target shade. OYA Lightening Powder: (Slide 42) OYA Lightening Powder offers the greatest benefits available in powder lightener: Up to 7 levels of lift Aloe Vera for its restorative properties Light blue based A soothing Herbal Tea fragrance Mixing ratio 1:2 (1 part powder with 2 parts OYA Lotion) Off scalp application Mixing ratio: 1:2 with 10 vol., 20 vol., or 30 vol. OYA Lotion Process: Up to 40 minutes at room temperature OYA Sunshimmers: (Slide 43) Sunshimmers is an artistic technique used to add beautiful blond dimension to any hair color. It is a freehand technique that allows the colorist to creatively place highlights for the greatest effect. Section the hair into desired style. Begin in your first section. Create random, ½ inch by ½ inch sections. Hold each section 90 degrees out from the scalp. Paint the OYA Lightening Powder onto the regrowth first, keeping it off of the scalp. Now bring the OYA Lightener down through the section with slow and gentle strokes. Paint the section using the palm of your hand as support. Gently release the section and allow it to rest on the hair below. Continue working in this manner throughout the first section. Now move to your next section and repeat. Frame the face with slightly bigger pieces. Develop Sunshimmers for minutes. 18

19 Formulating Blonds Successfully: (Slide 44) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Mid lengths & ends: Regrowth: Process: Tone all over with OYA Demi Permanent Color: 10-0 (N) Natural Ultra Light Blond 5 Medium Brown less than 50% gray 60g OYA Lightening Powder + 120g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 30g OYA Lightening Powder + 60g 20 vol. OYA Lotion Up to 40 minutes to the palest yellow 60g 10-0 (N) + 60g 5 Vol. OYA Lotion OYA recommends checking your color every 5 minutes until desired tone is reached. Avoid contact with scalp. Virgin Application: This application is based on the four-quadrant section the foundation for many color techniques. The four-quadrant approach helps you to stay focused and to apply your color formula systematically. Begin your pre-lightening application in the bottom of the nape. Create a 1/4 inch horizontal parting that extends from the center of the nape to behind one ear. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way. Beginning 1 inch away from the scalp, apply the Lightening Powder Lightener to the mid-lengths and ends with slow gentle brush strokes. Now, throughout each quadrant, apply Lightening Powder to all of the regrowth sections with slow gentle brush strokes, until the entire head is complete. In the front quadrants, direct the hair back from the face for client comfort. Develop up to 40 minutes Creating Blonds Toner Inspirations with OYA Demi Permanent Color: (Slide 45) Level 6 Warm Copper Level 7 Warm Level 8 Cool Level 9 Natural Level 10 Warm 30g 6-5 (G) + 30g 6-7 (C) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion 30g 7-04 (B) + 30g 7-5 (G) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion 45g 8-01 (A) + 15g (A) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion 45g 8-04 (B) + 15g (A) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion 45g 10-5 (G) + 15g (G) + 60g vol. OYA Lotion Process: up to 20 minutes OYA recommends checking your color every 5 minutes until desired tone is reached. Use the OYA Demi Permanent Clear after any blond service for extra shine. 19

20 OYA Lotions: (Slide 46) OYA Demi Permanent 5 vol. (1.5%) OYA Permanent 10 vol. (3%) 20 vol. (6%) 30 vol. (9%) 40 vol. (12%) Use OYA Lotions to activate your color formulas: Use the 5 vol. OYA Lotion with the OYA Demi Permanent Color for toning and depositing. Use the 10 vol. OYA Lotion when depositing with the OYA Permanent Color. 20 vol. OYA Lotion provides optimum gray coverage and one to two levels of lift with OYA Permanent Color. 30 vol. OYA Lotion offers two to three levels of lift with OYA Permanent Color. Work with 40 vol. OYA Lotion when you need three or more levels of lift with the OYA Permanent Color. Emulsifying OYA Color: (Slide 47) Slowly add warm water Work fingers in a circular motion Emulsify entire head Rinse and shampoo Rinse and condition After the development time, slowly add warm water and gently work fingers in a circular motion around the hairline. As more water is added, emulsify the color into a light lather and rinse until the water runs clear. Shampoo and condition accordingly. Tools: (Slide 48) GESTURE TO POWERPOINT AND/OR TOOLS IN PERSON The tools used will make a difference in the color result. OYA has chosen the best in design. OYA Tools include: Brushes Small brush for precision and smaller surface areas Large brush for applications on larger surface areas Bowls designed to support your brush properly Bottles accurate and easy to squeeze Scales lightweight and easy to read Timers small and accurate Capes large design for better coverage Aprons designed to protect more of your clothing Precise measurements and timing are the secrets to perfect color. 20

21 If you don t combine the correct amount of OYA Color and OYA Lotion, you will not get the results that you expect. That s why OYA recommends using a scale to measure all of your color formulas. While the bowl is on the scale, be sure the scale reads zero. DEMO SCALE Formulating with The OYA Colorist App: (Slide 49) OYA is with you wherever you go. It s a quick and effective helper for foolproof formulations in just a few easy steps! First, indicate what the customer's desired target color is. Second, indicate what the customer's natural level is. Third, indicate what the percentage of gray hair is and lastly, indicate whether or not the application is a virgin application or a retouch application. And voila! The OYA App provides you with the formula of success, every time. The OYA Colorist App includes: Complete OYA mixing ratios Complete OYA timing info OYA Permanent and OYA Demi Permanent formulas Pre-pigmenting info Pre-lightening info Customer information Links to oyabeauty.com ALLOW CLASS TO DOWNLOAD THE APP IF THEY HAVEN T ALREADY. OTHERS MAY USE THIS TIME TO PRACTICE WITH, OR EXPLORE, THE APP. Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 50) iphone You will need to know your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open 2. Touch the search icon at the bottom of the screen 3. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist touch oyacolorist when it appears in your search results 4. An image of the OYA Colorist App will appear in the search result touch the FREE button (It may also appear as a cloud icon with an arrow pointing down) 5. The free button will turn into a green INSTALL button touch it to begin downloading 21

22 6. You will then be asked to type in your Apple ID but don t worry the app is free 7. Once downloading is complete the INSTALL button will become a OPEN button touch it to open the app and begin formulating. " " Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 51) ipad: You will need your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open 2. Touch the search icon at the top right of the screen 3. Before searching you must change the settings from ipad to iphone in the upper left corner indicated in the picture below 4. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist 5. The OYA Colorist App will appear touch the icon or a small cloud with an arrow pointing down to begin the downloading process 22

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