ISOLAN GPS. Natural emulsifier for W/O lotions with high formulation flexibility

Transcription

1 ISOLAN GPS Natural emulsifier for W/O lotions with high formulation flexibility ISOLAN GPS fully based on renewable sources offers excellent stabilization properties even at low emulsifier concentrations. This outstanding PEG-free emulsifier is especially designed for the formulation of low-viscous W/O lotions to provide a pleasant, non-oily skin feel. Evonik delivers: 1. Possibility to formulate light W/O lotions with a very low oil phase content 2. Excellent emulsion stabilization properties at low emulsifier concentrations 3. Ability of cold processing

2 Benefits Especially suitable for formulating W/O lotions with an extremely low oil phase content, down to 18-20% Excellent emulsion stabilization properties even at low emulsifier concentrations (2-3%) No co-emulsifiers needed Can be used as co-emulsifier to reduce overall viscosity of an existing formula Perfectly compatible with silicones Cold processable Provides a pleasant, non-oily skin feel Applications Natural lotions Sun care lotions Facial emulsions Body lotions Soft creams Color cosmetics Properties Fully based on vegetable raw materials Certificates: ECOCERT approved natural*, NATRUE & COSMOS certified Palm oil free Free to use in China Clear to slightly turbid liquid HLB value: ~ 5 INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate *Valid certificate on personal-care.evonik.com Page 2/8

3 ISOLAN GPS in the emulsifier landscape Emulsifier landscape Trade names Molecular weight [g/mol] 100,000 10,000 1, HLB value Silicone-based Silicone-based, PEG-free Vegetable-based Liquid Solid Paste Vegetable-based, PEG-free Cationic ISOLAN GPS No. Product name Cream Lotion Spray W/O emulsifier 1 ABIL EM 90 2 ABIL EM ABIL EM 97 S 4 ABIL EM ISOLAN GPS 6 ISOLAN PDI 7 ISOLAN GI 34 O/W emulsifier 8 ABIL Care XL 80 9 AXOL C 62 Pellets 10 TEGO Care CG TEGO Care PBS 6 12 TEGO Care PS 13 TEGO Care TEGO Care PSC 3 15 TEGIN Pellets 16 TEGINACID C 17 TEGO Care TEGO Care LTP Cationic emulsifier 19 VARISOFT TA VARISOFT PATC Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH ISOLAN GPS September 2015 Page 3/8

4 ISOLAN GPS Comparison of light W/O emulsions varying the oil phase content Test formulation Phase Ingredients 1 [w/w %] 2 [w/w %] 3 [w/w %] A Emulsifier Cyclopentasiloxane TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGOSOFT OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) Hydrogenated Castor Oil Processing 1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 C. 2. Add phase B (80 C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. 3. Homogenize for a short time. 4. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 C and homogenize again. Microcrystalline Wax Total oil phase content B Glycerin Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate Water Z Preservative, perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. Page 4/8

5 ISOLAN GPS - Combining stability, low viscosity and lightness Test results - emulsion viscosity vs. stability vs. oil phase content 30 No freeze stability Stable emulsion with same viscosity obtainable with reduced oil phase content ( lighter skin feel & reduced costs)! Viscosity [Pa s] (Brookfield RV DV-I, spindle 5/10 rpm) No freeze stability No freeze stability 5 No freeze stability No freeze stability 21% 23% 25% Oil phase content (composition see page 4) No freeze stability Oil seperation at r.t. & 45 C ISOLAN GPS Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH ISOLAN GPS September 2015 Page 5/8

6 Guideline formulations W/O Moisturizing Lotion with a low oil phase content of 18 wt% based on the natural emulsifier ISOLAN GPS. W/O Moisturizing Lotion (F 47/04-10) Phase Ingredients w/w % A ISOLAN GPS 2.00 TEGOSOFT OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) 5.80 TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) 5.00 Isohexadecane 5.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.10 Microcrystalline Wax (Paracera W 80, Paramelt B.V.) 0.10 B Water LACTIL (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) 2.00 Glycerin 3.00 Processing 1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 C. 2. Add phase B (80 C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. 3. Homogenize for a short time. 4. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 C and homogenize again. Remarks Emulsion viscosity: 15 Pa s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 5, 10 rpm) Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50 Z Preservative, perfume q.s. Page 6/8

7 Smoothing Air Cushion Foundation (SC ) Phase Product name, INCI w/w % A ISOLAN GPS 2.70 B Disteardimonium Hectorite (Bentone 38 V CG, Elementis Specialties) 0.64 Alcohol (95%) 0.32 Mineral Oil 3.34 TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 9.70 Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane (Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning) 6.00 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Dry-Flo Pure, AkzoNobel) 1.00 Talc/Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Talc 46R AS, K.S.Pearl) 1.00 CI 77891, Titanium Dioxide/Triethoxycaprylylsilane (TiO2 CR-50 AS, K.S.Pearl) 7.20 CI 77492, Iron Oxides, Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Unipure Yellow LC182 AS-EM, Sensient) 0.60 CI 77491, Iron Oxides, Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Unipure Red LC381 AS-EM, Sensient) 0.10 CI 77499, Iron Oxides, Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Unipure Black LC989 AS-EM, Sensient) 0.02 TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 6.00 C Glycerin Sodium Chloride 1.00 VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) 1.00 Water A low-viscosity foundation which is suitable for air cushion packaging. It is based on the natural W/O emulsifier ISOLAN GPS. The foundation provides to the skin a very smooth and clear skin finish. This is possible due to the addition of the low-viscous emollient TEGOSOFT DEC. Processing 1. Mix Bentone 38 V CG into mineral oil. Then add ISOLAN GPS. Mix well using high shearing speed to disperse the Bentone. Then add alcohol to activate it to form a thick gel. 2. Add Dow Corning 345 Fluid and TEGOSOFT DEC to disperse the gel with stirring. To make sure the Bentone Gel can be activated well heat this mixture to 70 C. Use high shearing speed to disperse it as well as the other ingredients. 3. Use high shearing speed to disperse phase B. Add phase B to phase A and mix well. 4. Prepare phase C separately. 5. Add phase C into phase A/B with stirring (approx. 500 rpm). 6. Homogenize with fast stirring, 1300 rpm, 3 min. Remarks Emulsion viscosity: 4 Pa s (Brookfield RV DV-I, spindle 5, 10 rpm) Z Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr GmbH) q.s. Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH ISOLAN GPS September 2015 Page 7/8

8 Europe France phone Italy phone Russia phone ext. 577 Scandinavia phone Spain phone United Kingdom phone Asia China phone India phone Indonesia phone Japan phone South Korea phone The Americas Canada phone Brazil phone Mexico phone USA phone Africa South Africa phone Australia Australia & New Zealand phone This information and all further technical advice is based on our present knowledge and experience. However, it implies no liability or other legal responsibility on our part, including with regard to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, no warranty, whether express or implied, or guarantee of product properties in the legal sense is intended or implied. We reserve the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further developments. The customer is not released from the obligation to conduct careful inspection and testing of incoming goods. Performance of the product described herein should be verified by testing, which should be carried out only by qualified experts in the sole responsibility of a customer. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor does it imply that similar products could not be used. For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a specific area of interest, please contact the Head Office of Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH in Essen or contact your local representative. This product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States, Canada, and Mexico). Since global regulatory requirements differ, parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations, including but not limited to import and export regulations. Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user. This product is not intended to be used as a drug. September 2015 Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH Personal Care Goldschmidtstraße 100, Essen, Germany p.o. Box, Essen phone , fax personal-care@evonik.com