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1 Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. Slide 1 Check for updates on the web now! 1 Slide 2 Clothing has existed since prehistoric times. Why do people wear clothes? Protection Status Modesty Decoration 2 Slide 3 Decoration seems to be the most basic motivation for dress. 3

2 Slide 4 Type of dress worn may be limited by: Function: style must permit required activities. Availability of materials. Filipino Southern women Russian weaving Slavs hats preparing from bamboo hemp fibers. 4 Slide 5 Dress can be divided between draped and tailored clothing. 5 Slide 6 Draped clothing is made from woven lengths of cloth, loosely fitted, good for warm climates. 6

3 Slide 7 Tailored clothing is cut and sewn, close fitting and good for cool climates Fairchild Publications, Inc. Slide 8 There are also clothes that combine draping and tailoring. 8 Slide 9 Technology limits or expands options. Hand processes. Mechanized. Powered by electricity. 9

4 Slide 10 Social mores and customs may limit or expand clothing choices. 10 Slide 11 In the study of historic costume some underlying themes are related to dress. A theme is a recurring or unifying subject or idea. (Webster 1988) 11 Slide 12 Some themes that will appear throughout the study of the history of dress: 12

5 Slide 13 Social Life, Social Class Structure, And Social Roles, Including Those Related to Gender 13 Slide 14 Changes and or patterns in social behavior, what modern terminology might refer to as lifestyles. 14 Slide 15 Functions of dress in the social context can include: 15

6 Slide 16 Designation of gender differences. 16 Slide 17 Designation of status. 17 Slide 18 Identification of group membership. 18

7 Slide 19 Ceremonial use of clothing. President Grover Cleveland s wedding as reproduced in Harper s Weekly 19 Slide 20 Certain themes grow out of the historical context. 20 Slide 21 Politics and political leaders as style setters. 21

8 Slide 22 Political Conflict. c c c Slide 23 Economic events, including trade and the production and acquisition of textiles and apparel. 23 Slide 24 The theme of technology is often related to the production of textiles and apparel. Massachusetts Textile Mill Worker 24

9 Slide 25 And the various media of communication. 25 Slide 26 CROSS-CULTURAL INFLUENCES IN DRESS As cultures come into contact there is a reciprocal exchange of new ideas, resulting in styles that are MIXTURES and a process called CULTURAL AUTHENTICATION. 26 Slide 27 Mixtures are styles that incorporate components from several cultures. The cheongsam combines traditional elements with Western cut and fit. 27

10 Slide 28 Cultural Authentication is the process whereby elements of dress of one culture are incorporated into the dress of another. Usually the culturally authenticated style is changed in some way. Only rarely are entire garments adopted. Erekosima and Eicher (1981) Dashiki 28 Slide 29 Geographic location, the natural environment, and ecology (the relationship of humans to their physical environment) may emerge as themes that are evident in dress. 29 Slide 30 Clothing is considered by some to be an art form. Isabella Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain, Duchess of Austria and Burgundy, Princess of Belgium. 30

11 Slide 31 As an art form it can be said to grow out of the ZEITGEIST. Zeitgeist, a German word, describes the complex mixture of social, psychological, and aesthetic factors often called spirit of the times. 31 Slide 32 Influenced by the Zeitgeist or spirit of the times, different art forms from the same era may display similar qualities. 32 Slide 33 Themes related to clothing as an art form include the relationships between costume of a particular era and developments in the fine and applied arts. 33

12 Slide 34 Individual artists and designers, such as Gabrielle Chanel, contribute to the view of costume as art. 34 Slide 35 And the tendency for dress to participate in revivals of interest in earlier styles. 35 Slide 36 Where does fashion fit into this exploration of dress? What is Fashion? 36

13 Slide 37 Fashion is a taste shared by many for a short period of time. Fashion is evident in many aspects of life. 37 Slide 38 A complex fashion system has developed in the modern world. It facilitates: The Design Manufacture Distribution Thereby making it possible for men and women of all incomes to follow current fashions. 38 Slide 39 Design Development Technology Line Creation. Line Development. 39

14 Slide 40 Technology Systems for Manufacturing Apparel Pattern design. Marker making. Fabric cutting. Control of work-in-process. Control of sewing machines. Warehousing and selection. Electronic data interchange. Computerized printing. 40 Slide 41 Click on button to view live feed from QVC. You will need to have Windows Media Player installed. If you do not have it, click the PlayForSure button located to the right to get a free media player. 41 Slide 42 For Further Study Pre-historic Clothing Pre-historic Exeter: Clothing Worn By the Ice Man: Abstract Of Paper On Cultural Authentication Resources And Links On Folk Costume 4/us558476/ Fashion: Further Reading: Eicher, Joanne B., and Barbara Sumberg World Fashion, Ethnic, and National Dress. In Dress and Ethnicity: Change across Space and Time, edited by J. Eicher, Oxford: Berg. 42

15 Slide 43 Image Credits Image of tattoo shirt, courtesy of [ 7/7/05]. Image of the Leno Loom, courtesy of 7/26/05. Image of Tating Lace, courtesy of fundysights.ca/gallery/album12/pauline_how_making_bobbin_lace_paint_the_town_2002, 7/26/05. Image of Jackie Kennedy, c. 1960, courtesy of [ 7/7/05]. Dashiki, courtesy of [ 7/7/05]. Various images in this chapter courtesy of [ 7/26/05]. 43