Instructor: Sarah Bennett 1052 LeBaron Office hours: by appointment AESHM DEPARTMENT. T C 325. Patternmaking II.

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1 AESHM DEPARTMENT TC 325 Patternmaking II MWF 12:10 2: LeBaron Instructor: Sarah Bennett 1052 LeBaron Office hours: by appointment T C 325. Patternmaking II. (2 4) Cr. 3. F.S. Prereq: 301; permission of instructor. Principles of advanced patternmaking by flat pattern and draping techniques. Interaction of fabric characteristics with style features. Analysis of fit and design; problem solving. Patternmaking by computer. There is a course fee that will cover paper, thread, interlining, and other items used in the classroom, plus maintenance of the studio machines. Purpose of the Course This course emphasizes development of technical patternmaking skills at an intermediate level. Students continue to evolve principles by which both flat pattern and draping methods are used in the development of original design ideas. Emphasis is on relationships between two and three dimensional design processes. These include interpretation of sketches into patterns and finished garments, and the use of draping techniques for both technical and creative design. Course Objectives Students will be expected to: express thee dimensional design ideas through the draping of muslin on a body form and/or through manipulation of flat pattern blocks, use the draping method for creative experimentation and as a vehicle to determine finished designs, analyze existing garments or sketches to determine appropriate pattern making techniques, including draping, flat pattern, drafting, and computer pattern development, true and check results of the pattern process to establish fit, balance and proportion, solve both design and technical pattern problems through manipulation of fabric on the form, evaluate, research and establish appropriate production methods for specified apparel designs, critique your own work and that of your classmates to evaluate correct methods and identify ways to strengthen future work.

2 Required Texts Joseph Armstrong, Helen. Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5th ed. New Jersey: Prentice Hall, (TEXT 1) Di Marco, Sally. Draping Basics. New York: Fairchild Books, (TEXT 2) Optional Texts Cole, J. and Czachor, S. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. New York: Fairchild Books, Inc., Reader s Digest. Complete Guide to Sewing. New York: The Reader s Digest Association Ltd., 2002 (older editions are also acceptable). Shaeffer, Claire. Sewing for the Apparel Industry. New Jersey: Prentice Hall, Inc., WebCT This course is on WebCT. Print out assignments and scoresheets and check your grades. Directions: From Iowa State homepage, click WebCT in the lower left. Log in ID: Your ISU e mail address Password: Same as your ISU e mail password Stylesight Research fashion trends and designers for projects on the fashion forecasting site Stylesight. Access the website from on computers in 106, 108, 113, and 307 MacKay or the computers outside the LeBaron Auditorium in room Grading Policies Patternmaking Exercises Mid term Exam Plaid Project Draped Project Flat Pattern Project Design Journal Class Participation Total 260 pts 150 pts 150 pts 200 pts 200 pts 20 pts 20 pts 1000 pts Grades will be posted on WebCT. The instructor will make every effort to keep accurate records. However, it is also student responsibility to monitor grade reports and keep all materials related to the course. Grade related claims should be in writing (e mail acceptable). The plaid project, draped project, and flat pattern project must be completed to be eligible to receive a passing grade in the course.

3 Grading Scale Your final grade will be based on the following grade scale. Grades will not be curved. 930 and above = A = C = A = C = B = D = B = D = B = D = C+ 599 or lower = F Attendance & Participation No more than three absences will be excused. If you are more than 15 min. late you will be considered absent for the day. At the fourth absence, your final grade will be lowered by 5 percent. Each additional absence beyond the fourth lowers your final grade by another 5 percent. Coming to class late (5 minutes or more) three times equals one unexcused absence. If you are late for a critique you will be considered absent and receive 0 points for the critique when it is averaged into the grade. If work is not finished on time for a critique, the grade will be lowered based on % deemed not complete (e.g. 10% not done will lose 10% off grade), however, the highest grade for incomplete work is a B+. No late assignments will be accepted unless there are extenuating circumstances and I am notified in advance. It is essential to demonstrate a professional work attitude. This not only includes attendance, but also respect and consideration for fellow students, maintaining the classroom space, and participation in group and individual critiques. Disruptive behavior, such as the use of cell phones, reading the newspaper, inappropriate language, or disregard to lab policies/equipment, will not be permitted. This will all be calculated into the class participation grade. If you have an exceptional circumstance (health related, family emergency, or school activity, etc.) official documentation from the appropriate office is required for an excused absence. Academic Misconduct Academic misconduct is defined as any activity, which compromises the academic integrity of the university or subverts the educational process. Plagiarism is the act of stealing the ideas and/or the expression of ideas of another and representing them as your own. It includes not only plagiarizing oral or written work, but also someone else s design ideas and creative work. Any student who fails to give credit to ideas or materials taken from another source is guilty of plagiarism. It may sometimes seem a grey area in the fashion industry due to the practice of knocking off designs. However, as a creative design class, anything not your original work is unacceptable. Plagiarized work will receive a 0. I reserve the right to change a grade even after it has been given if plagiarism is later discovered.

4 Assignments I am assuming that everyone is starting with the following skills: 1) ability to manipulate darts and understand the use of dart shaping in seams, tucks, fullness, etc., 2) ability to drape a basic darted bodice and skirt, 3) ability to create patterns for basic collar and sleeve shapes, 3) working understanding of fabric, fabric grain and its relationship to drape, shape and fit, 4) an understanding of garment production processes, including but not limited to seam types, interlining, zipper applications, facings, collars. Course patternmaking will include: Patternmaking Exercises Draping processes: Draft and fit a sleeve for the basic bodice Princess bodice and princess dress foundation patterns Cowls Slip dress/bias Asymmetrical designs Draping for fullness and flare Patternmaking Exercises Flat Pattern Development: Kimono sleeves, raglan sleeves, lowered armholes Tailored (notched) collars, including a constructed sample Drafting a pants pattern with fitting process Patternmaking Exercises CAD Activities: A variety of modules using the Optitex digital design software will be made available on WebCT. You will be expected to complete these independently. More detailed information will be provided at a later point in the semester. Design Journal Activities: You will be conceptualizing designs based on inspiration sources at the beginning of each class. These designs will be sketched in a design journal. Each week, you will complete design development exercises individually and in small groups utilizing the designs from your journal. Exam: Exams and critiques of student work will be held as noted on the course schedule. Make up exams and critiques will not be allowed except under extenuating circumstances. A practicum exam will be given during the semester requiring you to analyze and pattern a design from a sketch using draping techniques. Plaid Project: You will work in teams of two to drape an original design using plaid fabric as your medium. Draped Project: This project will be draped, incorporating design features that provide exploration of more advanced draping techniques. Flat Pattern Project: This project should be mostly flat patterned, but some details may be draped where appropriate. It must be a tailored project. This does not mean a traditional blazer, but rather it should use the tailored form as inspiration. In addition, the design must include a unique collar design and a raglan/kimono sleeve variation.

5 Please address any special needs or special accommodations based on the impact of a disability with me at the beginning of the semester or as soon as you become aware. Those seeking accommodations based on disabilities should obtain a Student Academic Accommodation Request (SAAR) from the Disability Resources (DR) office ( ). DR is located in Room 1076 of the Student Services Building. Supplies Variform Ruler 12 (French curve)* Straight pins Variform Ruler 18 (Hip curve)* Push pins or pins with large heads Needle point tracer (tracing wheel)* Muslin (amount will vary start with yds) Tape measure 13 ¾ x 9 ½ plastic envelope (Smead #89566)* Fabric shears Pencils (mechanical or hard lead) Paper scissors B85 plastic ruler* Tape Sketch book (no bigger than 8 ½ x 11 )* Project supplies: pattern supplies above plus fabric chosen for design, other findings, etc. * Available at University Bookstore (MU)

6 Class Schedule Dates: Topic/Activity Reading/Assignment Aug Introduction to course; Assign dress forms; Drape basic bodice front and back Text 2 Ch. 1, 2, 4 Aug. 29 Sept. 2 Sept. 5 9 Sept Sept Sept Oct. 3 7 Basic sleeve for bodice Review draping darts Drape French dart front No class Sept. 5 Labor Day Dart equivalent bodices Princess bodice front and back, Cowl bodice front Bodice designs Empire midriff front and back, Surplice wrap bodice front (not in book) Basic skirt block Drape basic skirt front and back Skirt styles Flared skirt front and back, Flared gored skirt front and back (reduce flare) Dress styles Sheath dress Practicum Exam, September 30 Begin Plaid Project Introduce Draped Project Text 2 Ch. 5, 6 Sew bodice with one sleeve attached Text 2 Ch. 7 Due Sept. 5 Bodice muslin with sleeve and paper patterns; French dart Text 2 Ch. 8 Due Sept. 12 Princess bodice, Cowl Text 2 Ch. 9 Due Sept. 19 Empire midriff, Surplice, Basic skirt Text 2 Ch. 10 Due Sept. 26 Flared skirt, Gored skirt Due Oct. 3 Sheath dress Oct Continue Plaid Project Draping Project design approved Oct. 12 Oct Oct Oct. 31 Nov.4 Critique of Plaid Project design and fit. Begin Draped Project. Transfer draped project to paper patterns, sew muslin Draped project muslin critique Introduce Flat Pattern Project. Sew Draped project Drafting and fitting custom patterns Draft pants to fit a classmate; Sew muslin for fitting Plaid Project due Oct. 17 Draped project muslin and board due Oct. 24

7 I will be at a conference on Nov. 2 and 4. You will be expected to continue work on your Flat Pattern Project, Draped Project, and pant draft while I am gone. Nov Draped project final critique Nov. 7 Fit pants muslin on Nov. 9 Draped Project due Nov. 7 Text 1 p , Pant draft, muslin, and final paper pattern due Nov. 11 Nov Nov Nov. 28 Dec. 2 Dec. 5 9 Advanced sleeves and tailored collars Flat pattern kimono and raglan sleeves, shawl and notched collars Begin Flat Pattern Project Happy Thanksgiving Rest and sketch! Continue Flat Pattern Project; Flat Pattern Project muslin critique. Sew Flat Pattern Project. Dress form release Dec. 9 Text 1 p , , , Flat Pattern Project design approved Nov. 16 Raglan & kimono sleeve patterns, shawl & notched collar patterns, sewn collar sample due Nov. 28 Flat pattern project muslin and board due Dec. 2 Flat Pattern Project due Dec. 9 Dec Finals Week CAD due by Dec. 12 at 5:00 pm; Flat Pattern Project Critique: tentatively scheduled for Thurs. Dec. 15, 12:00 2:00