X-ray Fashion A Pictorial Review Michael Jackson

Transcription

1 X-ray Fashion A Pictorial Review Michael Jackson Within weeks of Roentgen s discovery, X-rays and their mysterious properties were on the front pages of newspapers across the world. Radiographic images have caught the public imagination ever since and have become ingrained within popular culture, serving as a short-hand motif for all things medical and being utilised by fictional heroes from Superman to James Bond. Radiologically inspired images and concepts have permeated into art, literature, comic books, films, television and music. This article considers the influence of radiographic images within the world of fashion and clothing. Radiology has provided a rich seam of inspiration for both haute couture fashion designers and high street clothing manufacturers alike. The collision between fabric overlying the skin and images revealing what lies beneath it has fired the imagination of the world s most celebrated designers, including Gucci, Gautier and McQueen. Filtered through a myriad of cultural references, radiographically inspired images are also to be found on clothing from mainstream manufacturers such as Gap and Adidas. From gothic chic to urban cool, and from sexy naughtiness to serious political statement, X-ray fashion has it all I have seen my death! is said to be Bertha Roentgen s reaction to seeing the bones of her hand revealed beneath the flesh on the now iconic radiograph of December Inevitably the association of skeletal radiographic imagery with death and mortality has stuck ever since. Within the realm of fashion and clothing it is difficult to claim skeleton motifs have been exclusively inspired by radiographic images the human skeleton has been a potent symbol throughout history and across cultures. Yet while a skeleton motif may not be an exclusively radiographic conceit, the popularity of such designs in more recent years must in part be related to the prevalence of X-ray imagery within popular culture. The concept of the skeleton revealed within a living subject, commonly encountered in cartoons when a character is electrocuted, can claim a more directly radiographic lineage, and a wide range of garments borrow heavily from this theme. Gap s childrens pyjamas and a large number of T-shirts and sweatshirts display a stylised skeleton positioned to (approximately) overlie the corresponding bones in the subject wearing the clothing, mimicking cartoon radiographic electrocution as illustrated below.

2 Footwear with a skeletal theme can certainly claim a more direct link with radiographic heritage. The shoe and Doc Marten boot shown below are very reminiscent of the pedescope described in a previous issue of Invisible light Other items of clothing borrow more directly from X-ray imagery, either using the semi-transparent appearance of bones, or playing more explicity with the idea of revealing hidden structures. The gothic chic outfit illustrated below uses stylised but identifiably radiographic style bones of the chest. While the overall flavour may owe more to the Adams family than the Roentgen family, it provides a link between the longstanding skeleton/mortality theme and the more recent radiographic influence. The Adidas tracksuit is undeniably an example of X-ray fashion. The anatomically appropriate bones are rendered in a semi-transparent, blue tinged light, definitely intended as a radiographic replica. The tracksuit could best be described as urban cool and has featured in a recent pop video. While the skeletal theme is continued the statement the garment makes is more likely to relate to a visually arresting style than a reflection on human mortality.

3 The children s sweatshirt is also clearly radiographic in nature the ribcage revealed along with various swallowed items of confectionery. The anatomical site of the sweets may be contentious, but the humour of the design is readily transparent. Of note the bones of this top are glow in the dark a feature shared with the Gap pyjamas. Whether the night-time luminescence relates to the nocturnal habits of spooky skeletons or concern over radiation exposure is unclear. Radiographic fashion is by no means confined to the skeletal theme. The bags below play with revealing the hidden to stylish, humourous and titillating effect. Designers have incorporated radiographic-like images in more abstract ways. These designs play with the theme of revealing layers behind layers, but are more about an aesthetic property of X-ray images, rather than an explicit anatomical design.

4 These designs, including a piece by Alexander McQueen, far right, also indicate how pervasive radiographic images are within popular culture. The designer can allude to X-ray images in more subtle ways, confident that the reference will be appreciated. Potential voyeuristic uses of X-rays became prevalent within the popular imagination before plates of the very first radiographs were barely dry. X-ray proof underwear marketed in the final years of the nineteenth century may lay claim to be the first items of X-ray fashion clothing. While the voyeuristic theme remains attached to radiographic images to the present day, clothing inspired by X-rays is now largely playful rather than protective in nature. Gucci s collection of 2010 is thought to be heavily influenced by X-ray imagery, although some would argue the models are more skeletal than the dresses. Subsequently, Jean Paul Gautier appeared to have taken X-ray fashion to some sort of conclusion with a creation exploring the concept of innerwear-as-outerwear However, the historical cycle came full circle earlier this year with the re-invention of X-ray proof underwear, this time in response to fears of voyeuristic airport security staff. At least two different lines of underpants are now available claiming to preserve passengers modesty while passing through full-body scanners such as those in operation at Manchester Airport. The underwear in question is unlikely to grace

5 Paris catwalks anytime soon, and may provoke rather than deter the attentions of security staff. They nevertheless provide a nice example of history repeating itself. X-ray proof pants may come to irritate security staff and could well provoke the attentions of the fashion police, but X-ray fashion has also been employed to deliver a more explicit political message to the powers that be. Chinese artist and political activist Ai WeiWei used images of his brain MRI scan, taken after a brutal police arrest, on a range of T-shirts as a statement on human rights abuse in China. Although many wearing the T-shirts may struggle to identify the features of acute intracranial trauma, the images nevertheless convey a potent message, and demonstrate the ubiquity of radiographic images in modern life. As with skeletal radiographic images, the MRI pictures also remind us of the frailty of human flesh. However, X-ray fashion does not need to be forever tainted with the touch of death, first alluded to by Bertha Roentgen. There are also clothes which celebrate human anatomy as revealed by radiology (in all its forms), fearless of death and uncoupled from the taint of voyeurism. Such garments have a peculiar echo of the illustrations from Vesalius De humani corporis fabrica in which human figures are shown in life-like poses through various states of dissection. It is difficult to fully forget the more gruesome connotations of the dissection process particularly in poses such as that in which the figure, dissected down to muscle holds his coat of skin in from of him. However, it is undeniable that many of the figures have poise and grace that conveys a sense of wonder at the elegance of the human form.

6 Cross-sectional imaging techniques such as MRI and CT, aided by image processing techniques such as surface rendering and multi-planar reformatting can now reveal the anatomy of living subjects in exquisite detail. Radiology thus enables a true celebration of human anatomy without the less savoury connotations of dissecting human cadavers. Similarly, clothing inspired by radiology which appears to reveal the underlying skeleton can now step out of the shadow of death and out into the sunshine