Circular Textiles Ready to market European Clothing Action Plan. Goodmorning and welcome!
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1 Circular Textiles Ready to market European Clothing Action Plan Goodmorning and welcome!
2 Hanneke op den Brouw Rijkswaterstaat
3 ECAP holistic approach
4 Fibre 2 Fibre Facts Livstores Irma Borgsteede Enschede textiel stad 30% recycled postconsumer cotton 280 grams textile waste saved 2000 liter water 3.7 kwh energy 91 grs. CO2
5 ABN AMRO Henk Hofstede European Clothing Action Plan
6 february 2019 Welcome ECAP
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9 DESIGN FOR RE-USE CIRCULAR MATERIALS URBAN MINING ENERGY NEUTRAL/POSITIVE PAY PER USE RIGHT-TO- OPY
10 SAVING MATERIALS EXPERIENCE INSTEAD OF PROPERTY RIGHT-TO- OPY DISTINGUISHING PROPOSITIONS WITH TECHNOLOGY FROM ANONYMOUS CUSTOMER TO A PERSONAL RELATION A HIGHER CUSTOMER VALUE
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13 100 circular deals billion circular assets 1 million ton CO2 savings
14 Inspiration and energy
15 ual London Rebecca Early European Clothing Action Plan
16 MAGIC CIRCLES: MAKING FASHION CHANGE, TOGETHER Professor Rebecca Earley Keynote, ECAP, Amsterdam
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21 1 design IPCC report, 8 October The next few years are probably the most important in our history Global Warming of 1.5 C, an IPCC special report on the impacts of global warming of 1.5 C above pre-industrial levels and related global greenhouse gas emission pathways, in the context of strengthening the global response to the threat of climate change, sustainable development, and efforts to eradicate poverty. We all need to change. We need to innovate to change. We have so many changes to make. We need to work together. We need to redesign the
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25 @EUtrash2cash
26 4 recycling 3 user 1 design 2 supply
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28 1 design
29 fashion can be super-slow
30 and ultrafast Professor Kay Politowicz & Dr Kate Goldsworthy
31 bright colour can be natural
32 old cotton clothing can become new, coloured, lyocell
33 old polyester clothing can be new performance plastics
34 repair can be beautiful Bridget Harvey
35 personal Bridget Harvey
36 and political Bridget Harvey
37 talk more
38 speak loudly
39 Dr Clara Vuletich and louder still.
40 fashion can make change
41 social circles april 19
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43 materials are changing
44 production is changing Dr Kate Goldsworthy
45 Laetitia Forst design is changing
46 fashion habits can change
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48 Ellen van den Adel & Marieke Koemans European Clothing Action Plan
49 ECAP Program Circular Textiles Ready to Market Arrival participants Welcome to ECAP, the European Clothing Action Plan, and welcome to CIRCL Keynote speech by Rebecca Earley, Professor of Sustainable Fashion Textile Design and Co-Director, Centre for Circular Design (CCD) Fibre to Fibre pilots part 1: fashion show with dancers followed by spotlight sessions Break: Lost and Found Plenary presentation of Design for Longevity and Circularity with showcases Fibre to Fibre pilots part Lunch break Fibre to Fibre pilots part Sustainable fibre strategies
50 Afternoon program Brainworks (parallel workshops) A. Love your Clothes B. Love not Landfill C. Circular Business Models D. Re-commerce & Rental concepts E. Circular Logistics F. Little Fashion Dragon Break Stand-up comedian BOOM Chicago Official opening of market place with 10+ circularity boosts and shop till you drop products to buy Visiting market place and network drink End of Program
51 Fibre 2 Fibre pilots European Clothing Action Plan
52 HAVEP Els de Ridder European Clothing Action Plan
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59 Blycolin Jacqueline Mommer European Clothing Action Plan
60 Nicolet Keetelaar Jacqueline Mommer Ron van de Wiel
61 WHO ARE WE? Blycolin is the leading international specialist and partner in linen services for the hospitality branch. Our enthusiastic employees believe quality is very important and endorse our corporate social responsibility. In an inspiring and efficient way, we proudly achieve in a sustainable total solution that contribute to the maximum quality perception (Q-perception) of hospitality guests.
62 WASTE kilo waste per Year.
63 I have a dream!
64 A LONG WAY FROM
65 THE FORERUNNER 90% RECYCLED MATERIAL: 45% post consumer jeans, 30% recycled Cotton, 15% recycled PET and 10% virgin Polyester
66 THE CHALLENGE Same quality & lifecycle Production in Europe Our preferred supplier connect to new supply chain Sorting waste Partnership The right yarns The market
67 2017/2018 Sheets 160/310 Ca. 175 gr/m² Plain Weave 1/1 Open end yarns Yarnnr. Warp: Ne 16/1 Thread/inch Warp:61 Yarnnr. Weft: Ne 16/1 Thread/inch weft:61 Colour plain white
68 RESULT 15 % post-consumer (old sheets) 35 % pre-consumer (confection waste sheets) 30 % Cotton 20 % Polyester
69 MEI 2018, HIGHLIGHT CUSTOMER Weidumerhout 124 Sheets Reborn Made in Spain TEST Wash in Practice
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71 2019, NEXT STEP (Washing) test again 2 e test customer Problems supply chain and pricing Prefered supplier Time My dream came true!
72 Moodstreet Evelien Vlasblom European Clothing Action Plan
73 from Waste to Wonderful Evelien Vlasblom
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75 Project overview Jersey collection for girls (Darlin) and boys (Fellow), denims and jackets Production jackets 100% polyester International markets; retail customers mainly online and boutiques 43% post-consumer and 57% virgin material 2320 pieces Sales prices between 79,95 and 89,95
76 Highlights of the project 1. Market introduction of two styles jackets 2. Our sister companies, LC Kidswear took over the initiative 3. Learning about each step in the process 4. Small volumes is difficult, but we made it happen 5. Educational film from Waste to Wonderful
77 Key insights and learnings 1. It takes much more time 2. Customers (retailers) find idea about sustainability interesting 3. Sustainability is not key at moment of placing orders 4. Sales force finds it difficult to sell sustainability 5. Recycled fabric in production country China speeds up the process 6. We still need to find recycled jersey and denim fabric in China
78 Next steps Sale up use of recycled polyester for jacket and padding Find recycled jersey fabric in China. Who can help us? Research fully sustainable children s brand within JOLO Fashion Group
79 Lost and Found European Clothing Action Plan
80 Where are you from? UK, Denmark, Sweden, Estonia, Italy, Spain, France, Belgium, Finland, Switzerland, the Netherlands 80
81 What line of business are you in? Brand, Retailer, NGO, University, Producer, Spinner, Expert, Service Provider, Recycler, Logistics. 81
82 Danish Fashion Institute Chloe van Barthold European Clothing Action Plan
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94 HNST
95 HOUDI NI
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97 Fibre 2 Fibre pilots part 2 European Clothing Action Plan
98 Schijvens Shirley Schijvens European Clothing Action Plan
99 Schijvens corporate fashion sinds 1863
100 Monitoring 100%, score 86 Category LEADER Winner Best Practice Award 2017 LIVING WAGE
101 Collect old uniforms Shredder them to fibres Mix with pet fibres From recycled yarn: Make new garments 30% post-consumer 20% pre-consumer 50% post-consumer
102 Circulair concept
103 Circulair concept
104 garment s produced
105 Highlights of the project 1. Adding this customer ( employees) to our portfolio! 2. Savings for environment calculated for CSU: Water liter CO kilo Energy KwH 3. Winner of Dutch Sustainable Corporate Fashion Award (and a lot of media attention)
106 Key insights and learnings 1. You need good knowledge of customs and HS codes for recycling 2. Return logistics in the Netherlands is not a common business and therefor hard to find for a good price 3. Customers are easy to find, people are really enthusiastic on recycling!
107 WE Fashion Marijke Willemsen European Clothing Action Plan
108 F2F Recycled Sweater Project WE Fashion Marijke Willemsen
109 Project overview 2 yarns used for knitwear Project with Texperium (project management) and ESG (spinning) All cotton used was regenerated from postconsumer recycled cotton, 50% PC recycled cotton, 50% Tencel In store in October 2018, sold in NL, D, CH, B, F and Lux 6000 pcs with a retail price of euro
110 Highlights of the project 1. Two beautiful yarns developed white yarn of post-consumer T shirts (50%) and Tencel (50%) Blue/green yarn of post-consumer jeans (50%) and Tencel (50%) The yarns are further developed by ESG in other colors, without dyeing the yarns, but by mixing with dope-dyed viscose. These colors will have less sustainable material content (Tencel vs viscose) but will have a lower use of water, chemicals and energy. 2. Proof that the development of yarns is possible in our buying system, without having to make exceptions. 3. We achieved considerable environmental savings, specifically on water (92%), but less on chemicals (8%) and energy (12%). This is mainly due to the fact that we made the choice to dye the blue and the green yarns.
111 White yarn post-consumer T shirts (50%) Tencel (50%) The yarn is twisted to create a fashionable look.
112 Blue/green yarn post-consumer jeans (50%) Tencel (50%) The yarn has contrasting nappies to create a fashionable look.
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116 Key insights and learnings 1. The yarns needed to be dyed to create a commercial product, that fitted in the collection. We did not have enough time for research & development to look for other options on how to achieve the desired colours without dyeing. 2. Developing a better understanding between brand and recycling expert is indispensable. There was not enough understanding between parties, and communication failed. 3. Planning was difficult. The yarns were delivered late, what caused a delay in production. In the end the sweaters were sold in a week with a promotion (2 nd sweater for half price).
117 Next steps WE Fashion is exploring an expansion of the use of recycled materials in products in the Winter 2019 Recycled merino Recycled jeans Recycled wool No current project running with the ESG yarns, the reality is that the yarns developed are too expensive for our products.
118 Suitsupply Joy Roeterdink European Clothing Action Plan
119 RE-SUIT
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122 RE-SUIT, the project
123 RE-SUIT pilot overview Goal: Tailored men's jacket half canvas in blue or grey Combed flannel S100 carded yarns Quality requirement of 100% mono material Aim: 1 style pieces in SS20 Post-spinning merino wool& Post -consumer merino wool (10% vs 90% virgin) Local European/ Italian fabric supply chain based on own reverse logistic networks to keep emissions down
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126 RE-SUIT Pilot key insights so far
127 Key insights and learnings Product complexity & fiber contamination Customer take-back Quality of recovered wool is high but yield is low Wool recycling in Biella- under the radar, but a lot of knowledge present Strong relationships and supplier leverage are vital
128 So what's next?
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130 Lunch break & Little Fashion Dragon European Clothing Action Plan
131 Fibre 2 Fibre pilots part 3 European Clothing Action Plan
132 Tricorp Jasper van den Dungen European Clothing Action Plan
133 Tricorp Circular Jasper van den Dungen
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135 T-shirts and polo s 70% Post Industrial Cotton 30% Post Consumer Polyester 750 pcs in pcs in 2018 New order to be placed in 2019
136 KPU is going circular. 1. Polo-shirts Comfort Compulsory safety norms From recycled content 2. New Life with Cliff products
137 Wearing test for jeans Infinity cloth less appreciated at first (300gr) Concordia cloth (200gr) appreciated Now opting for 300gr winter jeans and 200gr summer jeans. Production planned in Q2
138 Highlights 1. Military clothing presented in March 2019! 2. Collaboration with Dutch awearness 3. Circularity throughout Tricorp
139 Insights 1. Circular product possibilities from clothing 2. Gained insights from circular concepts 3. Widespread willingness to go circular -> collaboration is key
140 What s next?! 1) Working towards circularity November 2019 (A&A fair tangible products) 100% cotton / polyester Details all fully circular (zipper, labels, prints, yarn) 2) Working towards a leasing concept Tricorp will own the whole process.
141 JBC Valerie Geluykens European Clothing Action Plan
142 I AM Green Organization JBC nv Presenter Valerie Geluykens
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144 I AM Presents 20% Post-Consumer Waste + 79% Bio Cotton + 1% Elasthan Trousers & skirts Women, Men, Boys & Girls Prices 29,99 euro - 49,99 euro Belgium, Luxemburg & Nord- Rhein Westfalen
145 Highlights Acceptable price, nice product Positive vibe amongst colleagues Limit Footprint of our production : 145
146 Key insights and learnings More recycled content Good communication is essential Good relation with fabric supplier
147 What s next? More Post- & pre-consumer waste Information, communication! Close our own loop
148 I AM A Green Journey 148
149 Sustainable fibre strategies European Clothing Action Plan
150 Recover Hélène Smits European Clothing Action Plan
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152 Hélène Smits Global Business Development Manager
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157 IS IT CIRCULAR??
158 WHAT ABOUT THE QUALITY?
159 IS IT COST COMPETITIVE?
160 CAN WE CONTROL THE CHEMICALS?
161 WHO IS ALREADY USING RECYCLED COTTON?
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165 Starsock Eric Roosen European Clothing Action Plan
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167 HOW TO CREATE A BETTER TOMORROW? What are you going to do to create a better tomorrow?
168 WHAT WE DO TO CREATE A BETTER TOMORROW? Joining the ECAP programme Make our most important materials more sustainable Cotton BCI GOTS RECYCLED Polyester RECYCLED Polyamide REGENERATED Elasthan BIO-BASED new materials
169 ALONE YOU CAN DO SO LITTLE BUT TOGETHER YOU CAN DO SO MUCH! We believe strongly in trust and cooperation throughout the whole supply chain! This gave birth to an fantastic initiative
170 WHO DOES WHAT? COLLECT WASTE FISHING NETS REGENERATE THEM TO MAKE ECONYL YARN MAKE BEAUTIFUL SOCKS
171 FISHING NET RECOVERY KG OF DISCARDED FISHING NETS EXPEDITIONS WITH FISHING BOATS WITH 5 PARTICIPATING COUNTRIES THE NETHERLANDS, BELGIUM, UK, GREECE AND ITALY
172 ACT TODAY FOR A BETTER TOMORROW Everybody in this room can make the difference by changing their behaviour NOW! Walk around the stands and start buying sustainable items!
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174 Brainworks! Love your Clothes Love not Landfill Circular Business Models Re-commerce & Rental Concepts Circular Logistics Little Fashion Dragon 174
175 Short break!! European Clothing Action Plan
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177 Welcome Deputy Mayor Marieke van Doorninck European Clothing Action Plan
178 Circular Textiles Ready to market
Circular Textiles Ready to market
Circular Textiles Ready to market Table of contents Fibre to Fibre Pilots P.29 Introduction to Circular Textiles P.5 Boosting Circularity P.49 ECAP Projects P.13 Facing the Future P.57 4 Table of contents
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