HOW TO CHOOSE PATTERNS

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Nora Sims
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1 HOW TO CHOOSE PATTERNS Choose patterns intelligently Choosing the right pattern requires much thought. The pattern must not only be suitable to the material but it must also be suitable to the individual who is to wears the finished garment. The question to keep in mind is not "Is that dress attractive?" but rather "Will I be attractive in that dress?" Most women wish to appear like the "picture", a model figure. Women flock to fashion shows to see the model figures display the gowns that they later will make or buy, in hopes that they, too, will make the same appearance. But-all styles suitable to a "perfect 36" figure may not be becoming to your figure. Are you aware of any peculiarities of your figure that should be minimized? Are your hips extra large? Are you quite short and stout? Are your arms quite large for your body? Have you a large abdomen? Are you very tall and thin? Are your shoulders stooped? Is your figure angular? Each figure should thus be analyzed to check the selection of patterns so as to choose becoming styles those that will enhance the attractiveness of the wearer, and not merely advertise the pattern of the dress. Visualize Many women cannot visualize themselves in a new dress before it is made. This is an art that every home sewer should study, for without proper selection, the dress will not be satisfactory even though the sewing is a work of art.

2 You have a dress or possibly several dresses that you or your loved ones especially like. Study their lines, discover their secret. And DO NOT IGNORE THE ADVICE OF YOUR FRIENDS. We can never "see ourselves as others see us". This is a tragedy for many women. If they could see themselves as others see them they would often not select the clothes that they wear. Stand in front of a long mirror; view yourself from all sides, especially the side lines. Use a hand mirror. Stand at a distance, not close to the glass, and notice the outlines of the figure. Then notice how much smaller you appear in a dark dress than in a light dress. Drape a cloth around the shoulders and notice how much larger the figure appears. Try different effects with light and dark cloth for fronts, trimmings for collars and drapes until you find out what is most suited to your figure before selecting a pattern of similar design. If you learn to study your figure, it will soon be much more encouraging to make your own clothes, for they will be so much more attractive and becoming. Optical illusions The lines of dress designs produce optical illusions that either make the dress becoming or unbecoming to the wearer. The garment may be beautiful on a model figure but when worn by one who is out of proportion, the illusion of the lines produces effects that are not pleasing and are often very unbecoming. Notice the lines to the left. Both long lines are the same length, and both have lines added that are also of the same length. Note the different effects. The line with the long straight lines added in

3 a lengthening design makes the center line appear much longer than the line with short lines placed inward. One appears long and slender, while the other appears short and thick. Dress lines produce the same effects. Lines in the dress made in seams running perpendicular to the floor will produce a slenderizing effect while large, round, floral designs in materials; or circular effects in capes; large, loose sleeves, crosswise lines in the design; or any lines that attract the eye from the length of the figure will broaden it to the same degree. Crosswise lines shorten the figure, while an unbroken line lengthens the figure. Suggestions Here are a few suggestions for those who desire to choose patterns wisely: A normal size figure has a wider choice than one that is out of proportion, or is very small, or very large. If you are large do not select a pattern unless it has slenderizing lines in vertical sections. The front should not be made in one plain piece, but will be more slenderizing if the pattern is designed with long collar lines in the front, or a deep yoke section possibly edged with a fold or collar. The deep, graceful folds of a cowl neck are also becoming and afford a variation from the standard surplus lines so often used. Sleeves for a large woman should be made below the elbow and if they are full, they should be made of soft clinging material. Large cape effects, so often chosen by the large woman because there is no sleeve problem to contend with, may be comfortable but enlarges the figure to a marked degree. Look in the mirror at

4 the width of the shoulders when wearing one of the cape sleeve dresses and be convinced. Large hips If the hips are large, seek to slenderize them not only in selecting the vertical lines in the design but also in making the waist a trifle looser and fuller with the addition of a cape collar or drop shoulders to widen the effect of the body so that the width of the hips will not be so much greater than the width of the shoulders. Top heavy The woman with larger bust than hips should be especially cautious in selecting patterns. Her waist should be as plain as possible, with the vertical lines in the designs or the soft folds of the cowl neck. The V-neck should be used by the larger woman as the higher necks have a tendency to broaden the chest lines and enlarge the figure. Angular figures The tall, angular figure should seek to broaden the effect of her clothes. They may fit as perfectly as her larger sister's dresses, but should be of the full, soft lines about the shoulders and neck. Even the front of the dress may be made in the softer lines, with the long, soft collar effects. This type of figure can also wear the tiered skirts, the peplums, the big sashes and bows at the waist. She should avoid the skirts with the long, tight lines that would emphasize her thinness.

5 Short figures The very short woman, especially if she is of the matronly type, should avoid all belt lines in the front of the dress and should select length of line from the top of the dress to the hem in an unbroken line, especially in front. The belt may be placed across the back, but should end at the sides. There are many patterns with the skirt extending up into the waist that could be made beltless and would be very becoming for the short, stout woman. Stout figures The stout woman should avoid the appearance of being too large for her clothes. The youthful styles should be left for the youthful figures. There are many becoming styles for the stout woman without making the figure conspicuous. The fronts, neck lines, lack of fullness in the skirt, good corseting, ease in fitting, all have a tendency to slenderize her figure. These should be desired rather than a pretty dress pattern that is attractive on the figure in the picture. Keep in mind, "Will I look attractive in that dress?" Flat chest The figure with the flat chest should seek to make the dress with fuller lines across the chest. This can be accomplished by selecting patterns with draped effects or bows at the neck or the chest line. Tucks on the shoulder also fill the chest line. This type of figure should never make a dress close fitting through the chest with no trimming to relieve the flatness.

6 Selection The following are some of the questions that should be answered before the pattern is purchased: 1. Is the skirt too short for your figure? Short skirts make the figure appear shorter and broader. 2. Is a defined waist line becoming? A belt draws the eye to the width of the body and also shortens the short figure. 3. Can you wear the natural (or lower) waist line? The natural waist line emphasizes the prominence of the sway back and any indication of a prominence of the abdomen. The waist line should be lowered. 4. Can you wear full sleeves, elbow length? The elbow strikes the body at the waist line. Fullness at the waist line will make the waist line appear larger if short full sleeves are worn. 5. Can you wear stripes? Wide stripes attract attention to a large figure. 6. Has the dress a large collar? Large collars make the shoulders and arms appear larger and the figure broader. 7. Can you wear a division line in the skirt, as in over skirts, peplums, ruffles or tiers? Horizontal lines have a tendency to shorten the figure. 8. If you are flat-chested, have you selected a dress with fullness through the front? The chest should be filled out to a normal proportion. 9. Can you wear a round neck? Round effects near the face make the face rounder.

7 10. Can you wear a collar at the back? Short necks should avoid any collar effect in the back as it shortens the neck. 11. Is the skirt long and tight? Long tight skirts cannot be worn by women with full thighs. The skirt will burst in the seams. 12. Is the dress sleeveless can you wear sleeveless dresses? Large arms are not attractive in sleeveless dresses; the flat upper part of the arm should be covered. 13. If the abdomen is large, have you selected a dress with looseness at the waist so that it will drop in folds when seated? Soft long collars, surplus effects or even gathers at the waist line give this needed softness across the abdomen when seated. 14. If the neck is long, have you selected a dress with a collar? A long neck will be shortened by the use of many of the collar effects.

ES 838 June 1979 CREWE THE LOOK YOU. Like-WITH LINE. Oregon State University Extension Service

ES 838 June 1979 CREWE THE LOOK YOU Like-WITH LINE Oregon State University Extension Service Becky Culp* Becoming clothes influence the way you look and feel. Visible lines in your clothes create illusions