BERG ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WORLD DRESS AND FASHION

Transcription

1 BERG ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WORLD DRESS AND FASHION Volume 8 West Europe

2 ontents Encyclopedia Preface Preface to West Europe PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in West Europe The Study of Dress and Fashion in West Europe SNAPSHOT: Diderot's Encyclopedia and the Study of Dress The Geographic and Cultural Regions ice Skov XV xvii Early History of Dress and Fashion in Italy and the Iberian Peninsula Carmen Alfaro Giner (Iberian Peninsula) and Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli (Italy, translated by Ana Alacovska) Early History of Dress and Fashion in Great Britain and Ireland Naomi EA Tarrant Early History of Dress and Fashion in the Nordic Countries Eva B. Andersson, Margarita Gleba, Ulla Mannering, and Marianne Vedeler Ethnic (Folk) Dress in West Europe Helen Bradley Foster SNAPSHOT: The Concept of National Dress in the Nordic Countries Bj0rn Sverre Hoi Haugen SNAPSHOT: Why Does the United Kingdom Not Have National Dress? Alison L Goodrum The Dynamics of Fashion in West Europe Bo Lonnqvist The Structure and Form of European Clothes SNAPSHOT: Madeleine Vionnet and the "Goddess" Gown Interpreting "Civilization" through Dress Sandra Niessen PART 2: Early History of Dress and Fashion in West Europe Early History of Dress and Fashion in Continental West Europe Mechthild Milller H 1 PART 3: The Fashion Industry in West Europe Materials SNAPSHOT: Linen Margarita Gleba SNAPSHOT: Wool SNAPSHOT: Fur SNAPSHOT: Silk SNAPSHOT: Cotton SNAPSHOT: Synthetics Michiel Scheffer SNAPSHOT: Intelligent Textiles Bradley Quinn The Textile Industry SNAPSHOT: Leading Firms, Michiel Scheffer i

3 VIII CONTENTS SNAPSHOT: IT in the Clothing Industry Celine Abecassis-Moedas 110 The Netherlands SNAPSHOT: Viktor & Rolf The Apparel Industry Jan Hilger European Retailers and Global Sourcing Networks Lotte Thomsen SNAPSHOT: Creating a Collection in a Big Company Kasper Tang Vangkilde SNAPSHOT: Hindeloopen Regional Dress Jose Teunissen Translated by Michael Gibbs Germany SNAPSHOT: Jews and the Berlin Fashion Industry Irene Guenther Size and Fit in Industrially Produced Clothes SNAPSHOT: Women's Experiences of Size and Fit Karen Borregaard Fashion Designers SNAPSHOT: Coco Chanel Austria Irene Guenther Switzerland Sigrid Pallmert Translated by Kirsten Warner and Philipp Thiiring SNAPSHOT: Fashion Forecasting Ingrid Giertz-Martenson Fashion Photography Patrik Aspers Fashion Journalism SNAPSHOT: Fashion Journalists Kate Nelson Best Ethics and Industry PART 5: Italy and the Iberian Peninsula Italy Elisabetta Merlo and Francesca Polese Milan as a Fashion City Simona Segre Reinach Spain SNAPSHOT: Majos, the Meeting Point between Folk Dress and Fashion SNAPSHOT: Three Designers in Alto Costura Home Production Tone Rasch Care and Maintenance SNAPSHOT: Why Do Women Throw Out Clothes? Silvia Ventosa Translated by LucyLawton Portugal SNAPSHOT: Fashion Events in Portugal Paula C. G. da Costa Soares 27S 282 Secondhand Clothing HeikeJenss 171 PART 6: Great Britain and Ireland PART 4: Continental West Europe France Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell Paris as a Fashion City Martine Elzingre Translated by Pierre Hodgson England Naomi E. A. Tarrant London as a Fashion City Edwina Ehrman Scotland Naomi E A. Tarrant SNAPSHOT: Tweed Fiona Anderson Belgium Karlijn Bronselaer 199 SNAPSHOT: Wales Ben Phillips

4 CONTENTS IX Ireland 314 SNAPSHOT: Limerick in the 1950s 319 Sile de Cleir PART 7: Nordic Countries Sweden 323 SNAPSHOT: The Swedish Clog 328 Ulla Briick Denmark 330 Marie Riegels Melchior Norway 336 Tone Rasch SNAPSHOT: Norwegian Folk Dress in the United States 342 Carol Colburn Sami 345 Desiree Koslin Finland 350 Bo Lb'nnqvist Iceland 356 Azsa Sigurjonsdottir Greenland 363 Cunera Buijs PART 8: Types of Dress Uniforms 371 Nigel Arch SNAPSHOT Lufthansa Uniforms 380 Regina Henkel Sports and Dress 382 SNAPSHOT: Bathing 387 Nigel Yates Underwear 389 SNAPSHOT: The Corset 393 Grace Evans Accessories 396 SNAPSHOT: Hats 402 SNAPSHOT Glasses 403 SNAPSHOT: Gloves 404 SNAPSHOT: Handbags 405 Valerie Cumming Jewelry Gabriele Mentges Footwear SNAPSHOT: Salvatore Ferragamo SNAPSHOT: Sports Shoes Cosmetics and Skin Care Brian Moeran and Fragrances and Perfumes SNAPSHOT: Chanel N 5 Brian Moeran PART 9: Peoples and Dress Religion and Dress Nigel Yates, Dan Cohn-Sherbok, and Dawoud B-Alami SNAPSHOT: Muslim Dress and the Head-Scarf Debate Annelies Moors SNAPSHOT: North American Influences on West European Dress Rebecca Arnold Class, Work, and Dress SNAPSHOT: Smocks Alexandra Kim Gender Gertrud Lehnert Children's Clothes Viveka Berggren Torell SNAPSHOT: Sexualization of Preteen Girls in Norway Mari Rysst Subcultural Dress David Muggleton and Dunja Brill Lesbian and Gay Dress Shaun Cole Body and Beauty Patrizia Calefato Translated by Sveva Scaramuzzi SNAPSHOT: Beauty, Nature, and Equality Costume for Dance Helena Wulff

5 CONTENTS SNAPSHOT: Carnival Lidia Sciama Music and Dress Else Skjold Visual Media and Dress Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson Art and Dress SNAPSHOT: Elsa Schiaparelli The Novel and Dress Clair Hughes Index SNAPSHOT: Historical Dress in French Film Jennie Cousins 520