Seminar on the Fashion and Garment Industry and Economic Development in the Caribbean. Castries, Saint Lucia. 1 st 2 nd July 2015

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1 Page 1 Seminar on the Fashion and Garment Industry and Economic Development in the Caribbean Castries, Saint Lucia 1 st 2 nd July 2015 TITLE: PROSPECTS FOR THE FASHION AND GARMENT INDUSTRY IN THE ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT OF THE CARIBBEAN. PUBLIC POLICY RECOMMENDATIONS TO SUPPORT THE FASHION AND GARMENT INDUSTRY IN THE CARIBBEAN Presented by Glenda Joseph Dennis Greetings 1. The Importance of the Fashion Industry in the Caribbean I m sure you will agree with me that few countries, if any, can boast of being invulnerable to the economic crunch of the last seven years and arguably, least of all the developing countries. We in the Caribbean have long been beneficiaries of development co operation (assistance/aid) and in the current global circumstances we continue to welcome this support. However, the policies of this cooperation do not appear to adequately surmount all our challenges of sustainable development and so a new approach to development has been called for. This new approach includes a rejection of old development models that treated culture and creative activity either as luxuries, entertainment or impediments to progress and stridently now promotes them as contributing factors to social, economic and political development (Culture Action Europe, 2012). This thinking is now widespread and is shared by regional organizations like SELA, the European Union (EU), governments and civil society. Today we specifically focus on Fashion as one of the creative industries which has captured the attention of policymakers, academia and even the media in creating this new paradigm for development. Recent studies have illustrated not only the importance but the resilience of the Fashion Industry noting its growth from US$900 billion in 2008 to over US$ 1 trillion in In some cases it grew in importance as major source of income for affected nations (Ashpole 2012) i. Developing countries are expected to fuel most growth in future. The Fashion Industry is important to the Caribbean because they are for the most part SMEs and they belong to the largest contributing group of companies with significant share of employment. In the context of Trinidad and Tobago, it is regarded as one of the priority non energy sub sectors within the creative industries for development as we seek to pursue the necessity of Economic Diversification.

2 Page 2 2. History of the Fashion Industry in Trinidad and Tobago Trinidad and Tobago has long been recognized as a leader in the Fashion Industry in the Caribbean. This reputation is built on a tradition that includes skilled tailors, seamstresses and patternmakers (although much of these earlier successes remain undocumented). It is said that Trinidad s first designer exported in the 1940 s. ii However, it was during the period that there was a vibrant garment industry in Trinidad and Tobago. Data on the fashion industry has not been consistently available but in 1978, 130 garment manufacturing firms were registered with 7,000 persons being employed in the sector. Subsequently, the industry experienced some growth, with a range of successful local fashion designers emerging in the 1980 s and 1990 s. By 2003 data suggested that there were 150 firms and a recent survey in 2014 engaged as many as Notable Fashion Icons Notable brand names emerging in the industry include Maurice Sedwell, Bespoke Tailor of Savile Row, Heather Jones Designs, Claudia Pegus Designs, Meiling, Radical Designs, Robert Anthony Young The Cloth, Millhouse Clothing, Zadd & Eastman, Peter Elias, Francis Hendy, Ria s Handbags by Ria Ramkissoon, Janouras Custom Design, Sacha Cosmetics, Cher Mere and more recently, Anya Ayoung Chee, winner of Season 9 of the Project Runway Lifetime TV programme. Currently, there are a host of other designers who are developing their skills and expertise and many of them have experienced varying levels of success both regionally and internationally. 4. Sector Profile Ten years ago the Fashion Industry in Trinidad and Tobago generated in excess of US$60 Million annually and employed more than 11,000 persons directly or indirectly (NIHERST, 2006). More recent data (yet to be published) indicate that annual the turnover has exceeded T$100,000,000 in Port of Spain is being positioned as a fashion district and it is Trinidad and Tobago s aim to make it the fashion capital of the Caribbean (at least the English speaking Caribbean). Within the Fashion Industry, there are different levels of production, co existing and catering to a wide array of clientele. Small designers and fashion labels produce for the niche markets and cater mostly to private clients and the domestic market. The established designers with several years of experience in the industry cater to the domestic, regional and international markets. Larger firms such as Radical Designs and Micles generally produce for the local and regional mass market. The Fashion Industry has linkages to sectors such as beauty, cosmetics and perfume manufacturing, model management, fashion and image consulting, retail, fashion photography, beauty culture and event management. Identified niche markets for Trinidad and Tobago s fashion products are in the areas of textile design, Carnival costume design, bespoke tailoring for men and women, high end fashion merchandise, resort wear including beach wear and accessory design including handbags, belts, jewelry and crafted leather items.

3 Page 3 5. Institutional Framework 5.1 Caribbean Academy of Fashion & Design (CAFD) and University of Trinidad and Tobago (UTT) The growing pool of professionally trained designers is now being supplemented by students of the Caribbean Academy of Fashion & Design (CAFD) which is fully integrated into the University of Trinidad and Tobago (UTT). CAFD educates and trains aspiring designers and managers in the art and business of the Fashion Industry, ensuring that the next generation of fashion designers graduates with high levels of technical expertise and the business knowledge of the global Fashion Industry in order to compete successfully worldwide. A recent addition to the academic offering has been a fashion incubator for the new graduates turned entrepreneurs. 5.2 Fashion Week Trinidad & Tobago (FWTT) FWTT was launched in May, 2008 to take the industry to another level and showcase the diversity of design talent in Trinidad and Tobago, as well as to act as the springboard for new labels to debut their respective collections. In 2010, the event showcased some 50 designers, and 40 from Trinidad & Tobago. The 2010 edition also introduced a buyer s gallery and a series of seminars to help promote the local and regional Fashion Industry. Since then this promising initiative has been suspended as the industry began to reorganize itself towards adequate funding, institutional strengthening and the completion of a Fashion Industry policy dedicated to its support and development. 5.3 Tobago Fashion Weekend Notwithstanding this, designers have found marketing opportunity in the Tobago Fashion Weekend which launched in 2011 by Designers United Stores (DUS) and initially provided a marketing platform for the Fashion Industry in Tobago. iii This year 2015 an expanded Tobago Fashion Weekend became Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week (2TFW), showcasing designers beyond Tobago. 5.4 San Fernando Fashion Week Designers in the south of Trinidad also have the opportunity to take advantage of the San Fernando Fashion Week. 5.5 Fashion Association of Trinidad & Tobago (FATT)

4 Page 4 The Fashion Association of Trinidad & Tobago (FATT) was officially launched in 2007 with many of the leading names in the industry and now includes upcoming designers. Current and past Board members of FATT sit on the Advisory Council of the CAFD. The Mission of the Association is to articulate and develop strategies and methods for promoting the local fashion industry for regional and global competitiveness and it aims to support the personal and professional growth of local designers in an effort to promote economic empowerment. 5.6 Fashion Entrepreneurs of Trinidad and Tobago (FETT) FETT is an NGO that was formed in 2007, and created in association with the National Entrepreneurship Development Company (NEDCO), with all its members originally being NEDCO S clients. Most members are micro enterprises. 6. Government Policy In Trinidad and Tobago both the Ministry of Labour and Small and Micro Enterprise Development and the Ministry of Trade, Industry, Investments and Communication have been instrumental in conceptualizing and implementing enabling policy initiatives for SMEs in general and specifically for those in the Fashion Industry. The main Development document guiding policies is the Government s Medium Term Policy Framework and there is currently a Draft MSE policy The implementing agency for SME development is the National Entrepreneurship Development Company (NEDCO) while specific Fashion Industry development is the mandate of the Trinidad and Tobago Creative Industries Company Limited. 6.1 Fashion Industry Development Committee (FIDC) Pillar five (5) of the Medium Term Policy Framework speaks to a more diversified, knowledge intensive economy building on the native genius of our people. In light of this, the Fashion Industry was identified as a priority sub sector for development under the Creative Industries. In 2012 the Cabinet appointed a Fashion Industry Development Committee (FIDC) to oversee the development of a feasibility study and strategic plan for the local Fashion Industry, to develop opportunities for global access, and to establish pilot projects to build capacity within the Fashion Industry reporting directly to the Minister of Trade, Industry and Investment. 6.2 CreativeTT/FashionTT Further steps taken to enhance business development and strategic management of the Fashion Industry has led to the dissolution of the FIDC and the establishment of CreativeTT Through this

5 Page 5 the Government of Trinidad and Tobago hopes to improve harmonization of policies and strategic industrial planning, as well as funding and resource allocation related to the creative sector. The mandate of CreativeTT is to stimulate and facilitate business development and export activities and ensure harmonisation of policies within the creative industries. The company only focuses on three out of the seven creative sectors and has three subsidiary companies, known as MusicTT, FashionTT and FilmTT. Unlike the other two companies FashionTT has not yet been fully operationalized however, CreativeTT is currently in the final stages of reviewing the Strategic Plan that will inform the operations of FashionTT. 6.3 Fashion Industry Strategic Plan The final Strategic Plan for the Fashion Industry has not yet been published but promises to present a bold new direction towards improved local conditions and increased international competitiveness. I am not at liberty to reveal any details but the plan aims to provide strategies over 5 years devised to increase growth, revenue, competitiveness, global participation of the players in the industry and ultimately greater contribution to the national economy. Its focus is on the value chain and not simply events and activities. 6.4 Linkages Additional efforts derive from synergies built through inter agency linkages. One such is the collaboration between the Export Company of Trinidad and Tobago (exportt) and CreativeTT which together embarked on an initiative to introduce local fashion merchandise (garments, accessories and jewellery) to the French Caribbean Outermost territories (FCORs). Through this project, a representative Look Book was created for distribution to boutique buyers on these islands with a view to generating interest and orders. 7. The role of Trinidad and Tobago Bureau of Standards (TTBS) Standards play an integral role in improving product quality and performance. The Trinidad and Tobago Bureau of Standards (TTBS) is mandated, under the Standards Act No.18 of 1997, to develop, promote and enforce standards. The TTBS has developed a number of voluntary and compulsory standards in the area of garments, textiles and footwear to support the Fashion Industry. The most recent standard developed under this portfolio is the Assessment of garment quality Requirements. The aim of this standard is to establish requirements pertaining to the various constructional features, finishing, and presentation of outerwear and underwear garments The TTBS is committed to supporting the development of the Fashion Industry by providing standards and other services, including testing and product certification to facilitate trade and enhance global competitiveness. iv

6 Page 6 8. Impediments to the Industry s Growth Some of the impediments to the industry s growth and development include: The lack of mass production facilities and skilled labour Inadequate funding Sourcing affordable raw materials Inconsistency in filling orders Lack of data and inadequate research Sub standard quality among most producers. Inadequate marketing platforms at the national level 9. Conclusion Trinidad and Tobago is intent in implementing policies that facilitate growth and competitiveness of the fashion industry by addressing such issues as improvement of market access; skills and technology; encouragement of innovation and use of communication technology; access to finance; prudent and well governed investments; research and data generation. T&T embraces this regional approach and looks forward to working with SELA, OECS and TEPA in bringing the Fashion Industry in the region to global economic standards and sustainable competitiveness. THANK YOU. i Ashpole, Daneia. "Caribbean Fashion Industry": Mapping the Creative Industries, Caribbean Creatives, Jul. Aug pdf (accessed June 25, 2015) ii Reis M. Revolutionizing Trinidad and Tobagp s Fashion Industry: Exploring new ideas for Trade and Entrepreneurship. Caribbean Conference on trade Policy, Innovation, Governance and Small Competitiveness, Barbados, June iii Article accessed June 25, 2015: on TT Fashion/363/3/30#ixzz3e5DA0YrB iv TTBS develops standards to support Fashion Industry Trinidad and Tobago Newsday Article by Beverly Monroe, Standards Officer Trinidad, Thursday, July Accessed June 25, Culture Action Europe 2012 EU ACP cultural relations: An ambitious roadmap for Progress. Retrieved from general/543 eu acp cultural relations an ambitious roadmap for progress

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