Cedar Rock Fashion & Designs Healthier Clothing Redefining Style

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1 Cedar Rock Fashion & Designs Healthier Clothing Redefining Style TIPS ON CREATING A HEALTHIER WARDROBE: - To avoid developing GERD (gastroesophageal reflux disease): clothing should not be tight around the abdomen and stomach. - To avoid developing meralgia paresthetica, or reduced sperm counts: pants should be loose fitting and not skin-conforming, as found with skinny jean styles. - To avoid developing corns, hammertoes, muscle shortening, tendonitis, stress fractures, and plantar fasciitis: wear shoes, sandals and boots that have a lower two inch heal with rounded or oval toes, and a contoured arch, for more support. Ballet flats, flip-flops, high heels, stilettos, and flat winter boots lined with fur (faux or otherwise), will cause serious problems with continual use. - To avoid traumatic tearing or splitting ear lobes: earrings should be of a manageable size and/ or be clip-ons. - To avoid the spread of infection around the face: wash natural fabric/non-azo dyed ties, scarves, handkerchiefs and bow ties regularly. Your hands are not the only means by which bugs are transmitted. - To avoid stressing the neck, back and shoulders: carry less heavy shoulder or arm bags. If you must carry heavier loads, switch shoulders periodically to evenly distribute the stress of heavier bags, or invest in a good backpack that fits properly. - To avoid the risk of recurrent yeast infections by wearing natural, organic fabric underwear instead of synthetic, lacy, irregular edged undergarments. - To avoid contact dermatitis (and the introduction of toxic, hormone-disrupting chemicals, and carcinogens that have been shown to lead to genetic damage that can lasts for upwards of three generations): wash all clothing with baking soda, vinegar. These are usually the main ingredients in green laundry soaps, so there is no need to go to a dry cleaner, or use scented laundry drier sheets to reduce static cling. Many heavier stains can be removed or bleached using hydrogen peroxide, but use with caution, as hydrogen peroxide will whiten all fabrics. Depending on the size of the laundry load and how soiled the garments are, a 3:1 ratio of baking soda to vinegar works well. - To reduce the negative health effects associated with conventional (cotton) fabric production and toxic dye manufacturing, consider choosing garments made with organic hemp or other fibers that use less water, and that do not require the use of pesticides and herbicides. WHAT S GOTS GOT TO DO WITH IT? GOTS (The Global Organic Textile Standard) is an international certification that demands strict environmental criteria on the entire manufacturing process. The manufacturing process of textiles often involves different facilities and processes before the final product reaches consumers and GOTS ensures that an organic certifier evaluates all phases of production. That includes farming, harvesting, production, processing, manufacturing, packaging and branding. Today, a lot of garments on the market are labeled organic. But what the end consumer often does not know is that these can contain as little as 5% organic materials. The organic GOTS-standard guarantees a 95% organic content for cotton,

2 hemp, and silk fabrics, and considers the whole production process; from seed and cocoon stage, to finished product. Products: Final products may include, but are not limited to fiber products, yarns, fabrics, clothes and home textiles. The GOTS standard does not set criteria for leather products. Label Grades: There are two GOTS Grades: organic and made with organic. A textile product carrying the label grade Organic must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibers. The label grade Made with Organic must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibers. Blending conventional and organic fibers of the same type in the same product is not permitted. Criterion/Aspects: Environmental- The use of ingredients like formaldehyde, GMOs, heavy metals, copper, fumigants, fluorocarbons, aromatic solvents, and chlorophenols are prohibited in any part of the production process. Raw materials known to be toxic (to the earth, the ozone layer, or any living organism) are prohibited. Organic materials do not come in contact with non organic materials. Health - All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated. The final textile product cannot contain any harmful substances or toxins. Social- All processors and manufacturers must meet minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labor Organization (ILO): - Employment is freely chosen; - Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected; - Working conditions are safe and hygienic; - Child labor must not be used; - A living wage must be paid; - Working hours are not excessive; - No discrimination is practiced; - Regular employment is provided; - Harsh or inhumane treatment is prohibited Quality - Technical quality parameters must be met (ie. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values.) Control - Raw-material samples are collected for residue testing in labs that are accredited according to strict regulations. Manufacturing plants that are GOTS certified will be audited once a year. In addition, unannounced "surprise" visits are to be expected OTHER CERTIFICATIONS & HOW THEY COMPARE WITH GOTS:

3 X X X X X IVN certified BEST- Naturtextil G OT S c e r t i f i c a t i o n i s G L O B A L L Y r e c o g n i z e d a s t h e l e a d i n g p r o c e s s i n g s t a n d a r d f o r textiles made from organic fibers. For individuals with chronic and/or cyclic illnesses, this is the second best standard to look for when purchasing healthier and safer clothing. The newest standard to consider is the IVN certified BEST-Naturtextil certification. Clothing with the quality seal IVN certified BEST- Naturtextil are made to the highest possible environmental standards and outperform the requirements of the G OT S c e r t i f i c a t i o n. T h e I V N s t a n d a r d i s t h e h i g h e s t s t a n d a r d a c h i e v a b l e t o d a y! T h e m a i n d i ff e r e n c e b e t w e e n G OT S a n d I V N s t a n d a r d s i s t h a t I V N s e a l s t a m p e d textiles must be made from 100% certified organic fibers. T h e l i s t o f a p p r o v e d i n k s a n d a d d i t i v e s i s s i g n i f i c a n t l y s h o r t e r t h a n t h a t f o r t h e G OT S certified textiles. For example, the use of copper and heavy metal colors are no longer permitted.

4 The use of sodium hydroxide solution to increase the gloss of fibers (mercerization) and use of optical brighteners are no longer allowed. All trimmings and accessories (embroidery threads) must be made of natural fibers. Particularly of importance for individuals with multiple chemical sensitivities and compromised immune systems, IVN certified BEST Naturtextil certification ensures that the final finished products have been tested to ensure no harmful residual substances (that could come off by abrasion or sweat on the skin of the wearer) are present. HOW TO PROPERLY MEASURE YOUR BODY FOR DRESS SHIRTS: MEASURING THE NECK: Place a measuring tape around the neck at the height where the collar would normally rest. This will be just below your Adam s apple. Stand relaxed. Do not crane your neck out or squeeze your chin down. The tape should be resting lightly on the skin, not squeezing it. Hold one finger under the tape measure to ensure some room for comfort. Do not try to account for shrinkage by adding extra here. MEASURING SLEEVE LENGTH: Place one end of the measuring tape at the base of the center of the back of the neck. Run the measuring tape over your shoulder, and let it hang down to your hand. Measure to the center of the meaty part of your palm. Do not adjust for shrinkage. MEASURING SHOULDER WIDTH: Start the end of the tape on the outside edge of the shoulder where you want the yoke of the shirt to start. This is where the horizontal part of the shoulder meets the vertical part of the arm. Measure up over the curve of the shoulders and to outside edge of the other shoulder.

5 MEASURING THE CHEST: Run the measuring tape around the fullest part of your chest, tight up under your armpits and over the shoulder blades. Let your arms hang down in a relaxed, natural pose. Do not puff out your chest or arch your back in any sort of pose that isn t natural or sustainable. MEASURING THE WAIST: This is slightly different than the waist measurement you use when you buy pants, so don t assume you know this. It s important to stand in a relaxed, normal position (unless you re able to suck in your stomach and hold your breath all day long). Run the tape around the fullest part of the belly. This is usually around the level of the belly button. The measuring tape should be snug on the skin, but not squeezing in. MEASURING SHIRT LENGTH: Put the first end of the measuring tape at the base of the back of your neck and measure down your back to the point where you d want the shirt to be. This point is usually the bottom of the buttocks, although you may want to go slightly longer if you plan to always tuck the shirt in, or slightly shorter if you plan to wear the shirt un-tucked. MEASURING BICEPS: With your arm hanging at your side and relaxed, measure around your bicep at its fullest point. This is probably pretty close to your armpit. Make sure the tape measure is not too tight. Round up to the nearest half-inch. Don t flex. Fine, flex. Done? Ok, now take the measurement. MEASURING WRISTS: Measure around your wrist around the wrist bone. Hold the tape measure tight to your skin, but do not squeeze your wrist. Round up to the nearest quarter inch. We will add 2 inches to this measurement when we calculate your cuff circumference. TYPE OF FIT PREFERED: For most men, starting with a standard or office appropriate Slim Fit is suggested. It will be nicely fitted to you, yet still comfortable and not too tight. However, if you prefer a particularly tight fit, dislike any excess fabric around the chest, waist and arms, and are not bothered by slight tightness or limited range of motion, consider the Super Slim Fit. Conversely, if you appreciate a generous, roomy fit that does not hug your body, then select the Classic Fit. This will be looser around the chest and arms and boxier through the stomach. STYLE ADVICE: 1. Chose clothes that fit you properly, and that make you feel confident. 2. Chose garments that are well constructed. 3. Look to the shirt collar first: (a) When in doubt, choose an English Spread. This collar works well with a tie and also generally stands up nicely as an open collar when paired with a blazer, making it a versatile business collar. (b) Consider the size of your neck: If you have a particularly short neck, then stick to collars that have average or shorter collar bands. (This is the part of the collar that goes around your neck.) The height of the collar band determines how high up your neck the collar will stand. A ¾ to 1 collar band is a great choice, even if you re very petite. Longer necks on the other hand, need longer collar bands, but should not exceed 1-1/4 in height. (c) Consider the shape of your face: If you have a pronounced round or wide face, chose an

6 English Spread, Semi-Spread, or Point Collar, to help visually lengthen out your face. If your face is particularly long, then consider either an English Spread, Londoner, or President Cutaway option. (d) Determine the venue to which the shirt will be worn: A button down collar is ideal for the weekend get-away, or that much needed vacation. The buttons hold down the collar points, for a low maintenance shirt that works well under a blazer or sweater, and without a tie. (A plaid or gingham shirt will have a sportier vibe with a button down collar.) For the traditional business setting, where you re not the boss, a classic English Spread or Semi-Spread collar is ideal. If you work at a startup or media company, or one that is going for a more casual cook look, consider a soft un-fused collar, as it will stand up tall and look great, but without the stiff crispness and corporate look that is profiled with a fused collar. 4. If a dress shirt is needed, choose the most appealing sleeve cuff next: (a) Barrel Cuff (button closures for a casual appearance) vs French Cuff (cuff links required) for a more formal look. (b) One Button vs Two Button cuff (great if you have particularly long arms; or wanting a more formal look. (c) Rounded (common and subtle look) vs Mitered (more design) vs Straight Cuff (great for a casual shirt, but not a barrel cuffed shirt.) (d) Fused Construction (ideal for business) vs Soft Construction (better suited for casual wear.) Keep the construction consistent between the collar and placket. HOW TO DRESS A SHIRT WITH A HEALTHY TIE: To give a shirt a finished look, the fabrics used and the knot created can speak volumes in creating that first impression. For as many different fabrics available, there are several ways to tie a healthy tie: *The Four-in-Hand an elegant long and narrow knot with attitude! The slightly skewed and asymmetrical lines created make it an eye-catcher, even with slightly thicker ties. This know is very versatile and can fit will with all types of collars, except whose with extreme spreads. *The Windsor this symmetrical and wide knot is classically formal, and is suitable for cut-away collars that have more spread and well suited for individuals who have a slightly larger face. It s definitely a dressier look when used on somewhat narrower ties.

7 *The Half Windsor omitting one loop from the Windsor, gives you a medium-sized knot that is suitable for most tie types and collars, and enhances your look, without standing out too much. *The Small Knot - this knot looks simply amazing! When tied loosely, it appears fuller; and depending on how hard it is tied, is suited to most collars. *The Pratt Shelby Knot is a medium-sized knot ideal for button-down and standard business collars. It is well suited for the individual who has a smaller or medium sized face.

8 Over twenty years ago, a study conducted by Cornell University showed that individuals who wore shirts with collar sizes smaller than their necks, not only experienced blurred vision, headaches, and increased muscle tension in their backs and shoulders, they came down with more infections and transmitted more bacteria, due to inappropriate laundering of the ties they wore regularly. Today, some medical facilities have policies against staff and doctors wearing ties for the very same reasons! To choose the best quality of tie that will fit well around your neck, drape nicely, return to its original shape once it is removed, and produce a good knot and dimple look at the tie s construction: There are five main parts: the envelope (or shell); the keeper (the band of fabric in the back that keeps the back blade in place); the tip (the material used to finish the backside of the tie s end); the interlining (the body of most ties); and the stitching (the threads and crafting used to sew all the pieces together.) -The interlining should be made from 100% certified organic fabrics, with the ideal fabrics being silk or wool. A quality tie will be made from three pieces of fabric, not just two, and have a good weight to it. Check for hand-stitched hems, as these will ensure the tie holds its shape much better than if the hems were machined. Look for the slipstitch, (the long vertical stitch sewn up the back of the tie) as this also helps to maintain the shape of the tie. Note the bar tack that supplements the slipstitch - it keeps the two ends of the tie from separating. Select a tie that lies flat against the top of your belt buckle. It should correspond to the width of your jackets, lapel for a classic look. Choose the right texture: a wool tie goes well with a tweed or heavyweight jacket; whereas a woven silk tie is better suited to business attire, rather than a screened silk tie. Color co-ordination is important: select a tie that has one to three colors that are found in your suit and shirt. For formal and business occasions, a solid colored tie that s darker than your shirt is appropriate. (See Cedar Rock Fashion & Design s Color Matching Tag System.) Remember to look in the mirror. A tie should frame your face. Do you have dark hair and a dark complexion? Choose a bright tie. If you re fair skinned, select a darker tie. If your hair and skin tone contrast, wear a tie that contrasts with your skin tone. When in doubt, wear a subtle tie to stay classy unless you want this accessory to take the focus away from you. Keep it simple, especially with weekend, casual wear.

9 HOW TO PROPERLY MEASURE YOUR BODY FOR PANTS: *Posture is probably one of the most defining elements to ensuring your pants will sit properly and comfortably on your lower body. *To obtain the most accurate measurements, have a friend help to take some of the measurements, so you can focus on maintaining as erect a posture as possible. *Use a full-length mirror so you can see yourself, from another point of view, and help avoid making serious measuring mistakes. *A cloth measuring tape is the most common/reliable type of measuring tape used, however care must be used not to use old, stretched-out tapes as this can lead to inaccurate measurements. Always measure tape measurers against a ruler or yardstick BEFORE using them to take clothing measurements. *Have a size chart available as a reference guide for comparing measurements for men, women and children. *All finished garment types (ie. pants, suits, jackets, dresses and shirts) follow International Allowance (Minimum Ease) Standards that are influenced by fabric weave, quality, measurement profile, and design. The allowances used by Cedar Rock Fashion & Designs are as follows: Collar and cuffs Shoulder length Chest size Waist size Hip size Shirt and Sleeve length Crotch Depth Crotch Length Thigh size Calf size (+/-) 0.2 inches total circumference (+/-) 0.23 inches total length (+/-) 0.78 inches total circumference (+/-) 0.78 inches total circumference (+/-) 0.78 inches total circumference (+/-) 0.39 inches total length (+/-).5 to 1 inch total length (+/-) 1 in to 2 inches total length (+/-) 2 inches total circumference (+/-) 2 inches total circumference MEASURING THE NATURAL WAIST: Measure the thinnest portion (smallest circumference measurement) of your torso, between your ribs and your belly button, while erect. (To locate your natural waist, bend to the side and see where your body creases.) Wrap the measuring tape around your waist, keeping the tape parallel to the floor, and record the measurement. For the most accurate measurements, make sure you are wearing underwear or similar clothing that is tight, but not constrictive. Remember to keep your index finger between the tape and your body as you measure, to ensure the measuring tape is not drawn too tightly; and most importantly: relax - resist the temptation to draw your stomach in. MEASURING THE HIPS: Measure the widest part of your lower body (the fullest part of your hips) with both legs and heels brought together and then moved about six inches apart. Wrap the measuring tape around your hips, making sure the tape remains parallel with the floor at all times. Again, remember to keep your index finger between the tape and your body as you measure, to ensure the measuring tape is not drawn too tightly. MEASURING THE INSEAM & OUTSEAM OF THE PANT LEGS: Measuring the inseam of pants accurately is impossible to do alone, without sacrificing your natural, upright posture. Enlist the assistance of a friend to measure down the inside of each leg to the very bottom of the leg, where you would like the pant leg to hang around your shoe. Note that the length of both legs

10 may not always be the same. Wear shoes with a standard heal or whatever shoes you would typically wear with dress slacks. Outseams are usually measured to the nearest half-inch from the top of the hipbone, down to the bottom of the anklebone, or where you would like the pant leg to hang around the shoe heel. Be sure to wear the shoes you intend to have on with the pants being measured. MEASURING THE FRONT & BACK RISES OF THE PANT: Measuring from the center of the top of the front waistband to the bottom center of the crotch, and then up to the top of the back waistband, will ensure that even casual pants will fit comfortably. MEASURING THIGH WIDTH: Wearing a pair of comfortable pants that have had their pocket emptied, measure around your thigh, starting at the top of your inseam, and keep your index finger between the tape and your body as you measure, to ensure the measuring tape is not drawn too tightly. MEASURING KNEE WIDTH: Measure around the widest point of only one knee. MEASURING HALF HEM: To determine the width you want for the bottom of your pants, measure the width from a pair of pants you already own, and use those as a guide. MEASURING BELT LOOPS: To dress up a pair of pants, consider adding a healthy belt. Determine the width for proposed belt loops, by taking your waist measurement and divide by The belt will then be proportionate to your body. (For example: Waist size: 32 Some of the best belt widths: 1.75 inches, 1.1 inches, or.25 inches.) A belt should not constrict your waist when sitting. TYPES OF FIT PREFERRED: Pants serve as a base or anchor for the rest of an outfit. For the most part, they form the foundation for the foreground of your shirt or outerwear. They are also important because they determine whether your body appears tall or short in stature. - A high rise with a long, straight leg will make you appear taller, while a leg broken up by lower rises, cuffs or other pant breaks (folds above the cuff, where the trouser meets the shoe), will make you appear shorter.

11 - Dress trousers will fit more conservatively than other pants in that you should not see the contours of your buttocks. The key is to achieve some drape while avoiding unnecessary large or loose, illfitted pants. Most people prefer a medium break. - Pleats make the seat of the pant appear unnecessarily loose, so avoid them in suit and dress pants. - Chinos and corduroys fit a bit slimmer and are more casual than suit and dress pants, so pocket flaring (where the pockets do not lay flat against the pant) can occur. Most people opt for either a slight or medium break for dress chinos, as a full break often look sloppy, as seen on many casual chinos. Chinos are known to stretch slightly in the waist and seat with wear. - Straight leg jeans are flattering on most body-types. A dark colored jean dresses up better, almost instantly. STYLE ADVICE: Pants can always be tailored to be shorter, so it is fine for the pant legs to be longer. Just ensure that pants fit in the waist, the seat, and throughout the leg. It is best for all styles of pant to fit consistently through the body, which means that they shouldn t be looser in the thigh than they are in the calf. Different styles and sizes can be made to suit every body type find what fits you perfectly, and dress comfortably.

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