Pearson Education Limited Edinburgh Gate Harlow Essex CM20 2JE England and Associated Companies throughout the world

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2 Pearson Education Limited Edinburgh Gate Harlow Essex CM20 2JE England and Associated Companies throughout the world Visit us on the World Wide Web at: Pearson Education Limited 2014 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without either the prior written permission of the publisher or a licence permitting restricted copying in the United Kingdom issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6 10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS. All trademarks used herein are the property of their respective owners. The use of any trademark in this text does not vest in the author or publisher any trademark ownership rights in such trademarks, nor does the use of such trademarks imply any affiliation with or endorsement of this book by such owners. ISBN 10: X ISBN 13: British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Printed in the United States of America

3 COWLS PERSONAL MEASUREMENT CHART Circumference Measurements 1. Bust: 3. Abdomen: 2. Waist: 4. Hip: Upper Torso (Bodice) 5. Center length: F B 6. Full length: F B 7. Shoulder slope: F/R F/L B/L B/L 8. Strap: F/R F/L 9. Bust depth: F Radius 10. Bust span: 11. Side length: F/R F/L 12. *Back neck: 13. Shoulder length: 14. Across shoulder: F B 15. Across chest: 16. Across back: 17. Bust arc: 18. Back arc: 19. Waist arc: F B 20. Dart placement: F B 21. Standard dart intake: Front 1" (2 darts 1/2 to 5/8") Back 2" (2 darts 1 to 1 1/4") Lower Torso (Skirt/Pant) 22. Abdomen arc: F B 23. Hip arc: F B 24. Crotch depth: 25. Hip depth: CF CB 26. Side hip depth: R/S L/S 27. Waist to knee ankle floor 28. Crotch length Vertical trunk: 29. Upper thigh: Mid -th igh: 30. Knee: 31. Calf: 32. Ankle: Length Personal Figure Variations A. Head height relationship: Bust Waist Crotch Knee B. Bust/back/chest relationship: Bust Back C. Hip types: D. Arm types: E. Abdominal/thigh relationship: Abdominal Thigh F. Shoulder type G. Shoulder/hip relationship: Shoulder Hip H. Leg types I. Leg types J. Figure stance: K. Asymmetric figure. Record high side, right and left. Shoulder: Hip: L. Tilting waistline. Record high and low. Front: Back: M. Bust/waist Waist/hip Bust/hip N. Other variations: Overarm length (33) (shoulder tip to wristbone) Personal Arm Measurements 33. Overarm length:* 34. Elbow length:* 35. Biceps plus 2":* 36. Elbow bent (reference) 37. Wrist (reference) 38. Around hand (reference) *39. Cap height Elbow length (34) (elbow bone) Circumference *Measuring the Arm Use your measurements (shown by asterisks) for the draft of the basic sleeve. Read the instructions. Use the cap height from the sleeve measurement chart, or use the formula to determine cap height. Mid- wrist bone (35) Biceps (36) Elbow straight (37) Wrist (38) Around hand (36) Elbow bent 271

4 COWLS ANSWERS TO SELF-EVALUATION TESTS 2, 4, 8, 10, 14, 17, 20, 23, 25, 29,

5 Skirts/Circles and Cascades From Chapter 13 of Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5/e. Helen Joseph-Armstrong. Copyright 2010 by Pearson Education. Published by Prentice Hall. All rights reserved.

6 Skirts/Circles and Cascades INTRODUCTION SKIRT LENGTHS FOUR SKIRT FOUNDATIONS Straight, or Rectangular, Shape (Basic Skirt) A-Shape, or Triangular Pegged, or Inverted Triangle Bell-Shape SKIRT CHARACTERISTICS FLEXIBILITY OF SKIRT DARTS LOW-WAIST SKIRTS HIGH-WAIST SKIRTS Preparing the Skirt PREPARING ZIPPER AND WAISTBAND BASIC WAISTBAND Stitching Guide FLARED SKIRTS A-Line Flared Skirt Basic Flared Skirt One-Dart Skirt Foundation Flared Skirt Based on One-Dart Pattern Added Flare Skirt SKIRTS WITH GATHERED WAISTLINES Computing for Gathers Flared Skirt with Gathered Waist Gathered Dirndl Skirt GORED SKIRTS 4-Gore Flared Skirt 6-Gore and 8-Gore Skirts 8-Gore Pleated Skirt 12-Gore Skirt 12-Gore Graduated Flare Zigzag 12-Gore PEGGED SKIRT WITH PLEATS DRAPED WRAP SKIRT WITH A CASCADE Asymmetric Radiating Gathers SKIRTS WITH YOKES Yoke with Gathered Skirt Diagonal Yoke with Flared Skirt TIERS Terms Attached Tiers Separated Tiers Peplums PLEATS Types of Pleats Pleat Terminology Kick Pleats All-Around Pleated Skirt Inverted Box-Pleated Skirt GODETS Basic Godet Godet Variations WRAP SKIRT Wrap Skirt with Side Seam All-in-One Wrap Skirt CIRCLES, PEPLUMS, AND CASCADES Terminology Circle Within a Circle Parts of a Circle Radius Chart for Circle Skirts and Cascades Full-Circle Skirt Grainline Placement Relative to the Fall of the Flare Hemline Adjustments Three-Quarter Circle Skirt Half-Circle Skirt SKIRTS WITH UNEVEN HEMLINES Circular Skirt with Handkerchief Hem Circular Skirt with Graduated-Length Hemline Two Circles at Waist (Not Illustrated) Gathered Circular Skirt (Not Illustrated) SKIRT DESIGN VARIATIONS SELF-EVALUATION TEST 274

7 SKIRTS/CIRCLES AND CASCADES INTRODUCTION Changing the silhouette of a skirt (its outer shape, without regard to creative detailing) is one of the focal points for designers who wish to change the look and direction of fashion. A skirt whose basic shape hangs straight from the hipline to the hem is radically changed by increasing or decreasing the sweep of the hemline, moving the skirt away from or closer to the figure, or raising and lowering the waistline. SKIRT LENGTHS Micro Mini Mini (mid-thigh) Knee-length Midi Ballerina Ankle length Floor length (mid-calf) 275