PAISLEY A JOURNEY- FROM AGES ACROSS BORDERS

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1 PAISLEY A JOURNEY- FROM AGES ACROSS BORDERS Pavni Gupta Associate Professor Pearl Academy, Delhi, India 7/28/2014 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 1

2 Content: 1 Background of the Study Introduction of Paisley Inspiration of the research Inception of Paisley Introduction and History Development of the motif Journey of Paisley Change with demand Evidence of the motif Paisley s temporary demise The design values of paisleys and its widespread universal acceptance- Visual Journey Paisley the Inspirational source for designers- Visual Journey Views about the motif Wrapping up Bibliography 116 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 2

3 Background.. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 3

4 The session will portray the journey of a Paisley A motif from ages across borders. This paper is an effort towards emphasizing the design value of Butta or Paisley. The study aims to highlight the visual appeal of Indian butta and its demand in international market. Paisley after being in vogue for centuries has still not completed the journey; in fact designers are looking forward for more experimentation for providing further scope. The paisley is globally experimented and explored to suit each and every product from garments to home furnishing to accessories. The session will visually demonstrate some experimentation done in this area. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 4

5 What is Paisley.. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 5

6 Paisley A motif- * Intensively used in Indian Traditional Embroideries like Kashmir, Chikankari etc. * Inspired by nature, fruits and dry fruits 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 6

7 Zalakdozi embroidered cushion cover Inspired by Mango Shape 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 7

8 Sojni Embroidery silk kurta Inspired by Almond shape 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 8

9 Embroidered Jaal with buteh Inspired by pine and palm tree leaf 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 9

10 Embroidered buteh Inspired by Walnut shape 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 10

11 Inspiration of the research 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 11

12 The Paisley is an important part of Indian Traditional Craft and culture. It has gone through numerous changes and formation to be the part of race. The designers are still using the motif worldwide. by Ms. Jasleen Dhameja, a well known curator of Indian textiles and author of renowned books, (cited on 5 th June 2011 in a conference on Traditional Textiles of India at Delhi) 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 12

13 The words by Ms. Jasleen Dhameja developed the curiosity to know more and more about Paisley. I started investigating and reading the history and found the visual changes of the motif across ages and countries. The presentation also talk about the intensive use of paisley by the designers worldwide. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 13

14 Inception of Paisley 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 14

15 Introduction and History. Boteh is a Persian word meaning bush, shrub' or flower bud. In Kashmir the name used to describe this motif is buta or buti. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 15

16 According to the historians and researchers Sultan Zein-al- Aabedin brought the buta motif from Iran to India in Kashmir around 15 th Century- staring point of journey of buta 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 16

17 Development of the motif: The earliest design on Kashmir shawls- 16 th to 18 th century A single flowering plant 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 17

18 This design gradually developed into an upright spray of flowers By around 1800 became the stylized cone-shaped motif known as the boteh, which we now tend to call the Paisley pine. 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 18

19 The shape of the motif changed over the decades, from a small squat cone to a very elongated curve. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 19

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21 Some of the evidences from Victoria and Albert Museum of development of butta are : 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 21

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27 According to John Irwin former curator of Indian Collection at Victoria and Albert Museum The floral butta motif became harder and formally stylized in the mid-18th century, and westerners eventually dubbed the design "cone" or "pine". Paisley later became part of the vocabulary when wool shawls crafted in Paisley, Scotland (close copies of Kashmir patterns) took off. 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 27

28 Journey of Buta.. The examples of the work travelled to Britain by the East India Company in the mid 18th century. 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 28

29 Shawls - quickly became the vogue But were in short supply and very expensive. Mother and Two Children by A E Chalon, c (Courtesey of the Geoffrey Museum) 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 29

30 Imitated by British textile manufacturers who sold them for a tenth of the price. The birth of Paisley 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 30

31 The Indian butta motif was redeveloped to go with the European taste. The result was dramatic. Imitated Indian shawls became so popular that the weaving centers in Edinburgh, Norwich and Paisley were swamped with orders. 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 31

32 The word paisley become famous as the name of the teardrop shape pattern. It is possibly less well known as the name of a town in Scotland, located about 11 miles from Glasgow. Pearl Academy, Delhi 7/28/

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34 During the early 19th century, Paisley (Scotland) became famous for its Paisley Shawls 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 34

35 Machine-Woven Wool Shawls 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 35

36 For seventy years the patterned shawls remained fashionable, and the term paisley became renowned throughout the world. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 36

37 Rich, abstract, curvilinear patterns from Mughal Art, have continued 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 37

38 By 1860, Paisley could produce shawls with fifteen colors It was still only a quarter of the colors in the multicolor paisleys then still being imported from Kashmir 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 38

39 Change with demand In later centuries paisley pattern was being printed, rather than woven Being able to purchase printed paisley rather than woven paisley brought the price of the costly pattern down and added to its popularity. The places of manufacture for printed paisley were Britain and France. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 39

40 Printed Shawl on wool base with diamond twill weave 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 40

41 Printed shawl on silk with geometric twist 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 41

42 Printing silk stole 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 42

43 The Industrial Revolution put the price of woven shawls within reach of every English lady. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 43

44 Printed Butta became so popular that European manufacturers stopped weaving altogether, started using copper rolls to print the designs on a cotton plain weave. Moving towards the wider world of patterned fabrics, paisley took its first steps into the mass market. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 44

45 Ironically, it proved to be successful as a printed design that, by the later 19th century, even Indian Textile producers had taken up the habit of printing paisley designs on cotton. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 45

46 Paisley was heavily identified with psychedelic style and the interest in Indian spirituality and culture brought about by The Beatles to India in Evidence of the motif 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 46

47 Also, Fender Guitars made a Pink Paisley version of their Telecaster guitar, by sticking paisley wallpaper onto the guitar bodies. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 47

48 At the 2010 Winter Olympics, Azerbaijan's team sported colorful paisley trousers. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 48

49 PAISLEY S TEMPORARY DEMISE. The paisley shawl showed a decline in early 1870 s because of various reasons: 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 49

50 One of which is that by 1870 a woven Jacquard shawl could be bought for 1. Like any other luxury good, once the shawls were inexpensive enough that every woman could afford to own at least one; no one wanted to wear them 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 50

51 The introduction of the bustle in the late 1860s also caused paisley s decline. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 51

52 Only in the classic case of fashion trickledown, upperclass ladies draped themselves with Kashmir shawls precisely to reach to the market status. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 52

53 In Britain the paisley pattern represented in Celtic art; declined in Europe under the influence of the Roman Empire. However in India the motif continued to flourish in many different forms. It was first used on shawls in Kashmir. Now it is all over the world 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 53

54 THE DESIGN VALUES OF PAISLEYS AND ITS WIDESPREAD UNIVERSAL ACCEPTANCE The paisley is globally experimented and explored to suit each and every product from garments to home furnishing to accessories. Few visual examples are given in the following slides. 7/28/

55 Embroidered buties. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 55

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57 Paisley printed bags 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 57

58 Book Lockets with Paisley Design 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 58

59 Traditional nose ring adorn with buta design 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 59

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61 Bridal wedding gloves with paisley motif 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 61

62 Lee Hiller Designs-Paisley Motif - Mouse Pads from London. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 62

63 Jim Miner Tattoo -widely using Indian motifs. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 63

64 Paisley pattern is also making its space in food products like cake decoration. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 64

65 Paisley increase the appetite 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 65

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67 The men s clothing also shows a wide use of the Buta motif. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 67

68 The pattern is quite famous for printing and especially for silk stoles and scarf's. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 68

69 Paisley in garments 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 69

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71 Henna designs with paisley motifs are globally in vogue. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 71

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74 Paisley is an important part of men s clothing so one of the example of accessories is Cufflinks 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 74

75 THE MOTIF ALSO INSPIRED MANY NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS They are experimenting with the motif to give it a new dimension and exploring the hidden uniqueness which is yet to surface in its prime form. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 75

76 The paisley has evolved with time and became an integral and important part of interior designing and home furnishing. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 76

77 Dark paisleyby Lars Contzen, a German designer 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 77

78 Paisley Pattern Mini Buffet from IMAX, an everything furniture store from US. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 78

79 Beaded and sequined pillow with paisley motif in silk dupion by the designer Trish Mahtani at Rang Home Décor, South England. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 79

80 Home linen collection by Ludmila Crigan a well known textile designer from US. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 80

81 Laura Olivia s home and lifestyle collection 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 81

82 Margo, a rug by Thomas O Brien is hand woven in Nepal of wool and silk 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 82

83 Shower curtain by John Robshaw Textiles; New York working mostly with Indian fabrics and motifs m/ 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 83

84 Paisley print upholstery by Lamshop; Third Avenue, New York om./lamshop/welco me.html 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 84

85 Kerala Paisley wallpaper by Schumacher, Interior design firm, New York. er.com/ 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 85

86 Paisley screen from Belle Escape; famous for Vintage style furniture and furnishing 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 86

87 The Vintage Maroon Dot with Tiny Paisley Designs Tie from Pierre Cardin 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 87

88 ETRO the brand in men s wear from Milano is known in the fashion industry as the king of paisley. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 88

89 Paisley shirts by ETRO 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 89

90 ETRO s men s swim trunks 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 90

91 Foot ware designed as the part of Fifthavenue spring collection used paisley as the main motif. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 91

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94 Preeti S Kapoor s ethnic suits 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 94

95 Women s garments with Paisley Design from ZARA apparel 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 95

96 Emanuel Ungaro paisley jacket 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 96

97 The examples of beautifully woven and embroidered paisley by Abaya Collection from Dubai. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 97

98 Traditional Sherwani s from Dewan Sahib, India 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 98

99 Murphy dress by Stella McCartney from summer 2012, Online shopping ey.com/default/ 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 99

100 Alchemilla cottonpolyester by ETRO for Clarence House ncehouse.com 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 100

101 Elegant use of the motif by Anamika Khanna at Delhi Couture Week /28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 101

102 Ritu Kumar s ethnic women wear 7/28/2014 Pearl Pearl Academy Academy, of Fashion, Delhi Delhi 102

103 Traditional buta design used in a contemporary way by Sabyasachi Mukherjee, at Delhi Couture Week 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 103

104 7/28/2014 Shyamal & Bhumika Fall Collection Pearl Academy, Delhi 104

Dinner plate by French Bull based on theme RAJ; online store melamine designers http://www.

105 Dinner plate by French Bull based on theme RAJ; online store melamine designers om/our_store/dinnerplates/raj-dinner-plate 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 105

106 Printed Paisley Mugs by Rachael Ray 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 106

107 Paisley wastepaper basket by Marye-Kelley Home décor, Houston, TX 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 107

108 Boysenberry umbrela by Vera Bradley; Beach Collection. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 108

109 VIEWS ABOUT THE MOTIF. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 109

Trend Alert at Home: Paisley; from Elledecor March 2012 By Amy Preiser I bought this blouse in New York City the paisley is a great take on the pattern play that I'm loving

110 Trend Alert at Home: Paisley; from Elledecor March 2012 By Amy Preiser I bought this blouse in New York City the paisley is a great take on the pattern play that I'm loving in home decor prints now, and these three colors make a perfect combination! Designer Jenn Feldman a Los-Angeles based Interior Decorator 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 110

And when I m on the go, I have my paisley scarf it always makes me feel

111 I love a global feel in my home, so the block-print look of these paisley panels from Z Gallerie fits my living room perfectly. And when I m on the go, I have my paisley scarf it always makes me feel chic. Designer Kim Myles, the CEO of an interior design firm 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 111

112 Oversized paisley print on my new couch feels feminine and I loved it against my charcoal walls Neha Gandhi, Deputy Editor of Refinery 29 (online fashion magazine) 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 112

113 The paisley print is fun, colourful and just says "party. No one can be a wallflower when wearing paisley. Brie Dyas, Editor of Stylelist Home 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 113

114 Wrapping up. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 114

115 Paisley -A point of inspiration- A trend is based on what usually gains acceptance and sells Paisley s connection with the design industry has enhanced general enthusiasm for the motif. The whole range of products available with paisleys is indeed omnipresent The delicate form of the motif has taken its stand in every products 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 115

116 Paisley or buta after being in vogue for centuries has still not completed the journey; in fact designers are looking forward for more experimentation for providing further scope. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 116

117 Bibliography: Irwin, J. (1973). The Kashmir Shawl. 2 nd edition Victoria and Albert Museum. Irwin, J. (1980). Shawls: A Study in Indo-European Influences. H.M. stationary office London (reprint of 1955), page Frank. A. (1986) The Kashmir Shawl. The Antique Collectors Club Ltd, England Dhamija. J. (Ed.), Asian Embroideries. D.K. Agencies (P) Ltd. First Published 2004, Craft Council of India Levi. S.M. (1987). The cashmere Shawls. Dryad Press Ltd Pages David. R. (1993), Pictorial History of Paisley Publisher: Alloway Publishing Ltd Mehta J. R. (1970). Paisley Design- Masterpiece of Indian Textiles. Calico Museum P.94. Gregory. M. (1989). Paisley Designs. Dover Pictorial Archive, Publication Date: April 1, 1989 Skinner. T. (1989), Paisley: A Visual Survey of Pattern and Color published by Gibbs Smith Kashmir to Paisley: The Metropolitan Museum of Artis collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve, and extend access to The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. Online Link Andrews, M. (1986). Beyond the Fringe, Shawls of Paisley Design. Victoriana Magazine. Online link Azzarito. A. Past and Present Paisley. Retrieved on 20 th May 2014 from blog Design Sponge. The official website is Andrews, M. (1979). Kashmir and shawls of paisley design. Retrieved from the blog Paisley pattern collection at paisley museum. Retrieved on 21 st May 2014 from All visuals used in the paper have been sourced from the mentioned websites. 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 117

118 Thank you For any query contact at: 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy, Delhi 118

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