Line Development. Chapter Objectives. Chapter Objectives. Approaches to Line Planning. Approaches to Line Planning 1/27/12.

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1 1/27/12 Beyond Design Line By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner Chapter 8 Beyond Design PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law Chapter Objectives Chapter Objectives Understand how line plan and trend forecast are interpreted into designs for focused groups with specific delivery dates Understand limitations of legal protection for design of apparel Understand difference between item lines and group lines 3 Understand parameters of line development Understand how line assortment is balanced for production Explore means used to communicate design ideas at various stages of the line development process 4 Each garment designed part of a group that will be merchandised together on a selling floor, online, or in a catalog Styles within each group must satisfy the brand s range of customers from the most conservative to the most fashion forward Garments must meet customer s brand expectations in terms of styling, fit, quality, and price Seasonal line consists of the overall collection of garments that will be offered for sale by a division or firm at a given time Assortment plan spells out expectations as to variety, volume, and distribution of the line, as well as balance of line (breadth and depth) 5 Helps designers to focus their efforts on items most likely to succeed 6 1

2 Each group should express a clear point of view, focusing on a relevant theme within customer constraints Accurate communication and teamwork between merchandisers and designers = marketable line that supports brand goals Companies that rely heavily on basics (Jockey Intl., Lands End) Most specific plans Historic seasonal data Competitive edge from identifying right colors, adopting most up-to-date fabric technology, or maintaining highest quality standards 7 8 Edgy product developers assume more risk in projecting what consumers will want Merchandisers and designers more collaborative with input from sales, marketing, and/or key retail buyers Constantly trying to shorten calendar Minimize risk by finalizing specifics at last moment Commit to only minimum fabric order, manufacturing capacity early on 9 10 Original Designs Style Modification Ideas may be sketched by hand or computer drawings Ideas may be draped More common for higher price points requiring a custom-fit or fluid silhouette Bodies Recurring styles from previous collections that sold well Perfected patterns have been fit and graded; changed to adapt for new details Carryover bodies are very cost-efficient to produce

3 Garments adapted or modified from products designed by other firms Pictures or actual product off the rack In U.S. legal - justified as paying homage to designers good ideas Private label product developers are rethinking the merits of this derivative approach as a business strategy Many have set up sophisticated design departments to develop their own silhouettes Please note: Book states that knockoffs are legal. There is a bill in Congress as this is written to copyright garment designs. Therefore anything written here could be out of date by late Fast fashion chains (Zara, H&M) thrive on their ability to take an idea seen on designer runways and interpret it Capacity to interpret in 2-6 weeks Magazines (Lucky, InStyle) and Cable TV shows (The Look for Less) capitalize on the fast fashion promise 14 Runway designers addressing the problem with diffusion lines (lower-priced lines adapted from their signature lines, ex. Alexander McQueen) Co-branding or exclusive brand agreements with retailer (Stella McCartney) Legal Protection for the Design of Apparel Premise of fashion-basic elements constantly mixed and morphed into new combinations that reflect times In spite of the lack of intellectual property protection for fashion, fashion companies continue to make money Difficult to ascertain ownership of any design when fashion is so derivative Copyright Protection Copyright law - provides legal protection for authors of non-useful, original compositions Denied to clothing because they are intrinsically useful articles; few exceptions Copyright Protection In the U.S., any work done while employed by a developer is owned by employer, (not employee), unless specific language is written into contract The CFDA has been lobbying Congress to support a bill to offer copyright-like protection to clothing designs Please note: Book states that knockoffs are legal. There is a bill in Congress as this is written to copyright garment designs. Therefore anything written here could be out of date by late

4 Trademark and Trade Dress Best legal strategy for designers to challenge knockoffs Trademark - any word, name, symbol, device, or combination thereof to identify goods (Nike swoosh logo); protects designer from unauthorized use Trade dress totality of elements in which product is packaged and presented Organizing the Line Product development teams are very focused so time is not wasted on items that may not be produced Item Line - created around goods that are intended to be sold alone, one piece at a time; sportswear referred to as separates Organizing the Line Coordinated Group Lines - consist of items organized around fabric groups and intended to be purchased and worn together Pricing Part of brand s identity Determine where product will be sold, brands it competes with, range of fabrics used, and who can afford to shop for it Consumers tend to assume that price is also indicative of quality this may or may not be true Pricing (cont d.) Affects volume that will be produced Affects materials that can be used Most seasonal lines include a few loss lead items Fashion Level Customers return to brand when successful in finding apparel that matches their fashion point of view Balance between basic and fashion goods varies from brand to brand Some brands rely on their fashion styles to produce most of their volume Other brands rely on their basics

5 Timing Considerations Merchandise budget, line plan must consider seasonal timing as it pertains to product category Weather and seasonal shopping habits may make certain categories more important Fall coordinates Spring dresses Back-to-school children s wear Holiday (before Thanksgiving) gifts, dressier items Balancing the Line Assortment Variety style, size, color accounted for as stock-keeping unit (SKU) Assortment Volume demand for certain styles, sizes, and colors; product developer does not sell equal numbers of each style Assortment Distribution where each item will be sold 27 Concept Boards Illustrate the line s theme Vary in complexity Convey key colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and details the designer has identified themes Must communicate vision clearly Once presented and approved, designing can begin 28 Line Review As group coalesces, once again presented for line review with all silhouettes, color assortment, and fabrication Stakeholders make production decisions Presentations in variety of forms Flats Once design reviewed and accepted into line, technical design department develops spec flat or technical flat Technical flats define proportions, details, and construction required for production Complex details may be enlarged in a separate callout that magnifies area for clarity for patternmaker or sewer