In all of the examples below, the photograph exists independently from but supplemental to the clothing, brand or idea that it communicates.

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1 Fashion photography A short history 1826 First photograph 1850s First fashion photographs (from the court of Napoleon III) 1880s The first fashion magazines, Harper's Bazaar and Vogue (fashion was hand illustrated) Use of photography as an advertising tool Condé Nast hired Baron Adolph de Meyer to shoot portraits of models, actresses, and aristocrats for Vogue. The importance of magazines grew in the early 20th century as collaborations with designers increased. Ready-to-wear lines and department stores increased the accessibility of couture fashion, and trends were adopted and disseminated internationally. With the help of photography, rising couturiers in the 1920s and 1930s, such as Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Lanvin, each became known for their distinctive styles. In all of the examples below, the photograph exists independently from but supplemental to the clothing, brand or idea that it communicates. COMPOSITION: Early fashion photographers: Horst P. Horst, Man Ray, Cecil Beaton, Edward Steichen, George Hoyningen-Huene, and Erwin Blumenfeld. Horst B Horst, Dali designed costumes 1939 Cecil Beaton, Audrey Hepburn in Givinchy, 1954

2 By the mid-1950s, the trend toward carefully composed and beautifully-lit studio shots and the elegance of the models had given way to a new aesthetic that was more fluid, spontaneous, and energetic. Arguably, the two most influential fashion photographers to emerge at that time were: Richard Avedon and Irving Penn, both of whom embraced a minimalist aesthetic that profoundly impacted the genre. Note the amount of movement and animation in these shots below. ACTION: Richard Avedon, Verushka wearing Bill Blas 1967 Irving Penn, 1960s In the 1970s, social changes, particularly feminism, influenced the fashion industry and the way women were represented. More women photographers, such as Sarah Moon, Deborah Turbeville and Eve Arnold brought fresh perspectives to publications such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Eve Arnold s moves seem very contemporary (ref: recent Dove commercial), her notion of the beauty of the un-retouched woman can be seen in her very natural pictures of Marilyn Monroe, so different from her glamor shots and her book on Monroe reveals the artifice of her public glamor persona it s careful construction. She also shot models behind-the-scenes at fashion shows.

3 REALISM: Eve Arnold, Marilyn Monroe, 1950s SHOCK-SUSPENSE-NARRATIVE: Helmut Newton pushed boundaries with his psychologically and sexually charged images. Newton s work always has a narrative element, and is both controversial and extremely influential in fashion photography in everything from Terry Richardson s porn aesthetic to David LaChappelle s staged tableaus. Helmet Newton, Miami, 1991 Terry Richardson, Kayne West/Amber Rose, 2010

4 David LaChappelle, Britney Spears, 2012 These photos are intentionally designed to push viewer s buttons (in different ways). THE SUPERMODEL (AND MASS CONSUMPTION): More practical and casual styles for both men and women predominated in the 1970s to 1980s, the concept of ready-to-wear (or, prêt-a-porter) or apparel basics took hold, and, by the 1980s, rampant consumerism had grown fashion into a booming international industry, fueled by advertising campaigns and television commercials. The era of fast fashion was getting started. Supermodels like Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, and Naomi Campbell were photographed by Patrick Demarchelier below.

5 MEN: Men's fashion grew into its own industry as well, with photographers such as Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber known for their work for brands such as Armani and Calvin Klein. Bruce Weber, Rob and Little Bear, Bear Pond, Herb Ritts, Johnny Depp, 1985 Adirondack Park, 1990 Both of these photographers use male sexuality to sell clothing designed for both men and women. In the case of Weber s work in the 1990s of Abercrombie and Fitch, there often are no clothes; these are exercises in pure brand identity. NOW: In today s fashion photography, boundaries are becoming increasingly blurred between commercial and artistic work. These photographers include Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Roxanne Lowit, Juergen Teller, and David LaChapelle.

6 Jurgen Teller, 2014 Mario Testino, 2012 This blurring can be seen in the editorial work of magazines such as Purple, and Grey which often feature the work of photographers who primarily identify as artists such as Wolfgang Tillmans. What is art as fashion photography? We can see common techniques used across the art to design spectrum: use of celebrity models, realism (in different forms (tired strung-out un-made up models, cheap flash photography, the everyday, formal and compositional innovation, unexpected [shocking] imagery: violent, sexual, surreal, psychologically loaded; ambiguous, (sometimes unflattering) poses etc. Wolfgang Tillmans, 1992

7 Dash Snow, various dates When shooting your work you have the ability to take many photographs, having 200 photos and editing 5 from these is preferable to editing five from ten photographs. Please: 1. Look at other work, this link is useful as are many others online: 2. Make some sketches or notations on your shoot idea (Irving Penn always drew), you can use this as a basis to collect props for your shoot. Be somewhat prepared. 3. On site, try different ideas, and shoot a LOT. Vary the following: Shooting angle: above, on-level, below Flash/no flash Shutter speed (may need tripod for this) Composition (consider the frame and negative space) Get the model s body moving Consider role of in-camera interaction (eye contact and other actors) Shoot in multiple locations Tilt camera to compose on diagonals Coach good performances from your model (expressive face and body), attitude Introduce props and other elements (can relate to concept or just surprise viewer NO BORING PHOTOS!

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