Notes on an Obsession

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1 Notes on an Obsession May 2017 by Olivier Dupon

2 Each month in this column, I will share my secret jewellery discoveries with you; a selection of up to five jewellery pieces based on their craftsmanship and inspiring creativity. Only one-of-a-kind (or limited edition) jewels, chosen from all around the world, will make the cut. It is not about value (pieces could start from a few thousands up to millions), yet these pieces could be as much a good financial investment as an emotional one. There will be no theme other than uniqueness in all aspects. It is exclusively on Deluxe Pad for you to peruse, appreciate and eventually make your own. Olivier Dupon

3 Pink and White Diamond Lovebirds Brooch in white and pink 18K gold, set with carats of white and pink diamonds, and 0.53 carat of sapphires (for the eyes); the beaks are in patinated gold. POA. Love is in the air! And no one has better captured this feeling than Graff in this beguiling avian composition. Everything in the brooch exudes springtime charm and delicacy; from the mix of pear- and round brilliant-cut diamonds for the birds wings to the delightful round pink diamonds on the birds torsos, which touch one another. The enamoured couple is perched on a diamond-paved branch from which further pear-, round brilliant- and marquise-cut diamonds hang, a ravishing bloom that completes the magical scenery. At this level of craftsmanship and excellence, we are in the presence of not just high jewellery, but rather of objet d art.

4 Dior Grand Soir Botanic N 2 in 18K white gold set with IF VVS DE diamonds (7.25 carats), sapphires (0.37 carat), pink sapphires (0.09 carat), emeralds (0.01 carat) and rubies (0.70 carat); 36 mm quartz; Dior Grand Soir Botanic Collection; one of a kind piece. POA. Dior Grand Bal Galaxie Cygnus in 18K white and pink gold set with IF VVS DE diamonds (2.39 carats), pink sapphires (0.22 carat) and opal; 36mm automatic; Dior Grand Bal Collection; one of a kind piece. POA. Since 2010, the Dior Grand Soir Collection has been celebrating Dior s spirit of exclusive poetry. In 2017, the collection of eight one-of-a-kind watches transports us into a mesmerizing garden blossoming with imaginary flora. A border of snow-set diamonds on the 36mm case and lugs frames each otherworldly bloom. Likewise this year, the Dior Grand Bal Collection of ten one-of-a-kind timepieces is an enchanting odyssey, this time referring to Monsieur Dior s fascination for stars and constellations. In echo of a starlit sky in movement, all the dial is covered in a transparent oscillating weight set with diamonds and gold inserts, the team says. Here the Dior Grand Bal Galaxie Cygnus is a feast of pastel hues evoking the stars of the summertime Milky Way.

5 (Far left and top right) Ring in 18K rose, white and yellow gold set with white diamonds (0.48 carat), yellow diamonds (0.88 carat), pink sapphires (1.97 carats), tsavorites (0.63 carat) and one carat pink tourmaline; (middle top and bottom) Ring in 18K yellow and white gold set with white diamonds (1.33 carats), yellow diamonds (1.11 carats), pink sapphires (2.09 carats), orange sapphires (2.26 carats), yellow sapphires (0.41 carat) and one carat morganite; (bottom left) Ring in rose and white gold set with white diamonds (0.47 carat), black diamonds (1.03 carats), tsavorites (0.56 carat), blue sapphires (1.74 carats), yellow sapphires (0.56 carat), orange sapphires (1.66 carats) and one carat amethyst; all from the Peonies Collection. POA. In the art of imaginary flora (see previous item), the Peonies rings by Alessio Boschi are perfect illustrations. In each flower, Layer upon layer of paved petals (each with at least two different hues) host a cushion-cut gem, and pistils in white or yellow gold are glistening all around. Only known to the wearer, a ladybird has found shelter on the underside of one of the petals. It is a brilliant take on cocktail rings; all brimming with colours, they are equally lavish and charming, hot couture yet tapping into one s inner child. So just succumb to the temptation. Which one will you pick?

6 Necklace in 18K yellow gold set with round brilliant-cut diamonds (13.38 carats), orange sapphires (11.16 carats), pink sapphires (12.17 carats), red sapphires (11.21 carats), and yellow sapphires (2.48 carats); one of a kind, Paisley Collection. POA. True to form, Italian jeweller Qayten revels in enhancing femininity, especially when it comes to creating neckpieces that feel and sit like precious textiles. The creations from the Paisley Collection are enchanting examples. There is one particular necklace that evokes sunset with a symphony of red, orange, pink and yellow; light and airy it is composed of a delicate ribbon of gold leaves framing the top of a loose pavé mesh with paisley motifs. It looks as if the necklace could be a remnant of precious antique embroidery, one with frayed contours (the cascades of round-cut sapphires) and golden braids.

7 Summer Snow Hair Jewel in 18K gold vermeil plated silver, set with white diamonds, hand carved amethyst, green amethyst, cloudy rose quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal, with central morganite, tourmaline, topaz, sapphire, and amethyst, lemon quartz, pink tourmaline and chalcedony briolettes; Summer Snow Collection. POA. Alice Cicolini s Summer Snow Collection is named for the flurries of pollen that tumble down like snowdrifts from Moscow s 350,000 poplar trees in the heat of summer. Cicolini s signature carved disks are here stylised blossoms, inspired by kimono patterns where the coloured blooms cascade over geometric lines of bamboo. Drawing on these as a starting point, the hair jewel explores the potential of the delicate crystal to transform the branches and leaves behind them into a more liquid and dreamy landscape, like a pastelised Monet, Alice says. With metalwork reminiscent of Art Nouveau the ensemble is illuminated by small bursts of coloured gemstones.

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