Issue number 405 MAY 2018 CONTENTS 10 MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR More than just socialising 12 NEWS Qeelin s Wulu sensation Chow Tai Fook sales up in first quarter 16 16 MARKET INDICATORS 18 SHOWCASE Bare beauties 24 IN LOVE WITH PLATINUM Platinum perfect 12
Art Direction & Styling: Irene Foo Styling Assistant: Tingo Ko Photography: Kim Ham Make-Up: Chi Nip Hair: Po Lam @ Hair Peace Model: Fran M (Models International) Jewellery: Belford Jewellery Co Ltd On the Cover Tahitian Sunset necklace and earrings with unheated rubies and Tahitian pearls in 18-karat white gold; and ring with unheated rubies and diamond accents 26 INNOVATIONS Formica bolsters position in synthetic gems sector 28 SPECIAL FEATURES Star quality: The sparkle of celebrity marketing 34 TRENDS & STYLES Mystic dreams The colour of fantasies 40 DESIGN Isabelle Langlois: Charmed by colours Elegance of form and function Gold jewellery revolution 34 46 FAIRS HAPPENINGS Istanbul Fair reports higher buyer turnout Baselworld: Smaller show, bigger opportunities 34
Director Irene Foo Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Christie Dang EDITORIAL Editor Olivia Quiniquini Managing Editor Sze Man Young Assistant Editors Bernardette Sto. Domingo, Dodo To Reporter Elmo Wong Senior Researcher William Yick Administrative Executive Tingo Ko ADVERTISING Assistant Director Christine Sinn Advertising Manager Tina Hui Account Managers Jennifer Chan, Karen Lam Sales Administrator Cat Lee MARKETING Assistant Marketing Manager Winkle Yim Senior Marketing Executives Althea Long, Grace Tam Online Specialist Pansy Lo CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Senior Circulation Executive Lonita Hui PRODUCTION Senior Production Manager Jessie Quek Senior Graphic Designer Eva Kam Advertising Administration Eva So China: Italy: Japan: Taiwan: ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Wendy Yip, UBM China (Guangzhou) Co Ltd Tel: (86) 20 8666 0158 E-mail: wendy.yip@ubm.com Shenzhen Office Tel: (86) 755 8268 6301 E-mail: christine.sinn@ubm.com Mauro Arati, Studio Luciano Arati sas, Largo Camus, 1, 20145 Milan - Italy Tel: (39) 02048517853 E-mail: info@studioarati.it Nobuaki Nito, UBM Japan Co Ltd Tel: (81) 3 52961020 E-mail: nobuaki.nito@ubm.com Sabine Liu, UBM Asia Ltd - Taiwan Branch Tel: (886) 2 2738 3898 E-mail: sabine.liu@ubm.com Thailand: Anuchana Vichvech, UBM Asia (Thailand) Co Ltd Tel: (66) 2 642 6911 E-mail: anna.v@ubm.com US: Cecilia Wun, UBM Asia Ltd USA Tel: (1) 516 562 7855 E-mail: cecilia.wun@ubm.com President & CEO Jimé Essink Senior Vice President Wolfram Diener Founder Letitia Chow Mei Lai Published by UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) 2827 6211 Fax: (852) 3749 7348 JewelleryNet.com Copyright Contents of JNA are copyright. Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorisation of the publisher. JNA is published in Hong Kong each month and is available on subscription. Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong.
Message from the Editor More than just socialising When we talk about reaching out to consumers nowadays, the most obvious channel is social media. People share, chat, debate, bargain and literally shop on social media platforms. A simple click of like or follow sometimes could turn an enterprise into a multimillion-dollar business, especially if the person being followed is a key opinion leader (KOL) or a celebrity with thousands of fans. Last month, we looked at how leaders in the diamond industry underscored the importance of convincing millennials of the emotional value of the precious stone that was once a girl s best friend. This month, JNA talks to experienced consultants on celebrity marketing, who shared the benefits and costs of having a popular face to represent a brand. Consumers undoubtedly could easily be influenced by the opinions or image of a brand ambassador. However, as one of the experts in this month s Special Features was quoted as saying, celebrity marketing is a marathon, not a sprint. A well-thought-out, focused yet flexible marketing plan is crucial for any brand wishing to be successful in their promotional campaigns on any marketing platform. Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Christie Dang Lucian Milasan / Shutterstock.com
NEWS Qeelin s Wulu SENSATION Chinese luxury jewellery brand Qeelin has unveiled a new collection of necklaces with diamonds cut in the shape of its iconic Wulu design. Qeelin Creative Director Dennis Chan said, In Chinese culture, the Hulu gourd with its figure 8 shape, which inspired the Wulu design, is a symbol of protection, safety and permanence. The diamond symbolises everlasting love. We wanted to merge these two symbols of eternity. Each 18-karat white gold necklace features a D, E or F colour Wulu-cut diamond of at least a carat, certified by the Gemological Institute of America. The stones have a Wulu diamond laser inscription. According to Chan, developing the Wulu cut for diamonds was a decade-long process as it required a high level of skilled craftsmanship. The diamond had to be shaped as a Wulu yet cut correctly for optimum reflection. Each facet demanded detailed attention to produce the desired effect. In the end, we found a way to do it, he explained. Qeelin also recently launched its Wulu hoop earring with diamonds. The earring is being made available as an individual unit but can also be worn with a matching pair. This flexibility enables wearers to express their individuality as they wish, Chan said. Wulu hoop earring and Wulu diamond necklace LUCARA recovers massive diamond in Botswana The 472-carat diamond from Lucara s Karowe Diamond Mine Lucara Diamond Corporation has unearthed a 472-carat top light brown gem diamond, the third largest diamond ever recovered from its Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana. CEO Eira Thomas said, In 2018, mining at Karowe is focused in the high-value south lobe, which consistently delivers large, high-quality diamonds in excess of 10.8 carats in size. (The 472-carat diamond) will be sold alongside other exceptional stones recovered since the beginning of the year as part of the first exceptional stone tender (EST) later in 2018. In the first quarter of the year, Lucara recovered 218 specials or diamonds over 10.8 carats, the third highest quarterly count on record. This includes four stones greater than 100 carats and at least eight EST-qualifying diamonds. Lucara is focusing on maximising value at Karowe. An ongoing pre-feasibility study assessing the potential for going underground and extending mine-life from 2026 to 2036 will be completed towards year-end. The company also recently acquired Clara, a secure, digital, rough diamond sales platform that combines proprietary analytics with existing cloud and blockchain technologies to modernise the current diamond supply chain. With a budget of approximately US$2 million, the platform is currently being commercialised, with implementation using diamonds from Karowe scheduled from August 2018. JNA 12 MAY 2018
NEWS Chow Tai Fook SALES UP IN FIRST QUARTER Love in Petals necklace and earrings by Chow Tai Fook Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd has announced that its sales in China, Hong Kong and Macau increased in the first three months of 2018, driven by improving consumer sentiment and higher gold prices. According to its unaudited key operational data for the three months ended March 31, 2018, its fourth fiscal quarter, the company s retail sales went up by 13 percent in mainland China and 11 percent in Hong Kong and Macau, over the same period last year. Same-store sales grew by 7 percent on the mainland and 17 percent in Hong Kong and Macau. The company said, The Hong Kong and Macau markets recorded a relatively stronger growth during the quarter, benefitting from the improving consumer sentiment and reviving mainland visitation. On the mainland, same-store sales of gem-set jewellery fell by 8 percent but that of gold products increased by 14 percent. Same-store average selling price rose to HK$7,100 (around US$905), compared to HK$6,500 (around US$828) in the previous quarter. In Hong Kong and Macau, same-store sales of gemset jewellery and gold products grew by 16 percent and 18 percent respectively, with average selling price increasing to HK$13,000 (around US$1,656) from HK$12,400 (US$1,580) in the previous quarter. Chow Tai Fook attributed the higher average selling prices to the 9 percent increase in the international gold price during the quarter. The average weight per gold product sold also went up, the company added. CHANEL S untamed high jewellery collection Brave, instinctive, untamed. These best describe Chanel s latest high jewellery collection, L Esprit Du Lion. The collection features 53 oneof-a-kind pieces in 18-karat gold inspired by a lion sculpture found in Gabrielle Chanel s apartment at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. Carved in gilt bronze or marble and perched on a table, or in sculpted wood seated on the ledge of a fireplace, the lion is there the conqueror, his paw resting upon the world, Chanel said, adding that the lion represents the ever-free desire and inner spark with which Gabrielle lived her life. In this collection, chains are paired with the lion to enhance its power and emphasise its authority. Adorning multi-chain necklaces, open bracelets and chokers, the majestic lion resonates from jewellery sets crafted in yellow or white gold, watching over diamonds, sapphires, beryls and imperial topaz stones. Gabrielle, born on August 19 under the sign of Leo, embraced the lion symbolism and identified with the majestic animal s qualities, the company said. Serving as one of her sources of inspiration, the lion was an emblem that adorned many of her creations from suit buttons to the clasps of handbags. It also represents the omnipresent symbol of Venice, a city that held a special place in Gabrielle s heart. Intuitive ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds; and Brilliant earrings in 18-karat yellow and white gold with spessartite garnets, yellow sapphires, pearls and diamonds JNA 14 MAY 2018
MARKET INDICATORS 20% Organic growth recorded by the Watches & Jewelry arm of luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in the first quarter of 2018 B.Zero1 pendants and rings by Bulgari According to LVMH, the growth was mainly fuelled by Bulgari, thanks to the strength of its iconic lines Serpenti, B.Zero1, Diva and Octo. Chaumet, another fine jewellery company under LVMH, meanwhile unveiled its new high-end jewellery collection. Innovative timepieces presented by LVMH s watch brands at Baselworld 2018 were likewise wellreceived, the company said. These included Hublot s Big Bang Sapphire Tourbillon, Bulgari s Octo Finissimo Automatic Tourbillon and new models in the iconic Monaco and Carrera lines at TAG Heuer and Defy at Zenith. US$1,360/oz Estimated average gold price in 2018, data from Thomson Reuters GFMS Gold Survey 2017 Q4 Update & Outlook showed. US$1,500/oz Gold prices are expected to hit this peak price later in the year, according to the same study. Source: Thomson Reuters 51.71 Carat weight of an exceptional round, brilliant-cut D-colour flawless diamond to be sold at Sotheby s Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction on May 15 in Geneva. 50.39 Carat weight of an oval-shaped D-colour flawless diamond, another highlight of Sotheby s Geneva auction. Alrosa's Mar 2018 sales, in US$ Alrosa's Jan-Mar 2018 sales, in US$ Rough $550,300,000 Polished $9,100,000 Rough $1,580,000,000 Polished $23,700,000 In January to March, world markets saw higher demand for medium and large-sized rough diamonds compared to the same period last year. There was a slight seasonal cooling off in demand in March. However, good results of special-sized diamond auctions (over 10.8 carats) ensured higher sales in March compared with February 2018. Whereas it should be noted that at the end of the first quarter, rough diamond stock approached the technological minimum level. Alrosa Deputy CEO Yury Okoemov JNA 16 MAY 2018
SHOWCASE Bare beauties Women and their jewellery have long had an intimate bond, complementing each other s natural beauty and enhancing one another s level of sophistication. Pearls, diamonds and coloured gemstones among nature s most valuable and endearing gifts to humanity are the centre of attention in this selection of fine jewellery pieces that perfectly suit the modern woman. Paranami necklace with Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds; Paraiba Sea bangle and earrings with Paraiba tourmalines; and ring with Paraiba tourmalines, and white and pink diamonds JNA 18 MAY 2018
SHOWCASE JNA 19 MAY 2018
SHOWCASE Necklace, earrings, ring and bangle: White South Sea pearls and diamonds in 18-karat gold JNA 20 MAY 2018
SHOWCASE Long necklace, earrings, ring and bracelet with fancy-shaped diamonds in 18-karat white gold JNA 21 MAY 2018
SHOWCASE Art Direction & Styling: Irene Foo Styling Assistant: Tingo Ko Photography: Kim Ham Make-Up: Chi Nip Hair: Po Lam @ Hair Peace Model: Fran M (Models International) Jewellery: Belford Jewellery Co Ltd Necklace, earrings, ring and bangle with fancy-shaped diamonds in 18-karat white gold JNA 22 MAY 2018
SHOWCASE JNA 23 MAY 2018
IN LOVE WITH PLATINUM PLATINUM PERFECT Statement earrings set in platinum are top accessory at the 90 th Annual Academy Awards Statement earrings in platinum was the top accessory trend at the 90 th Annual Academy Awards held on March 4 in Los Angeles, California. From Nicole Kidman s Cluster diamond chandelier earrings to Gal Gadot s large diamond studs, the world s leading actresses accentuated their couture gowns with bold earrings that are timeless and glamorous. Platinum jewellery necklace by Tiffany & Co, adorned with aquamarines of approximately 61 carats and diamond accents from the Tiffany Blue Book Collection Nicole Kidman wears a set of platinum jewellery by Harry Winston, which includes Cluster chandelier earrings with diamonds of 23.52 carats; Secret Cluster diamond bracelet (37.62 carats); Tulip diamond bracelet (12.86 carats); ring with round brilliant diamond clusters of 4.73 carats; and a rock band with an oval-shaped diamond of 5.5 carats Gal Gadot dons platinum jewellery pieces by Tiffany & Co, including a necklace adorned with aquamarines of approximately 61 carats and diamond accents and a ring with an aquamarine centre stone (approximately 10 carats) and diamonds from the Tiffany Blue Book Collection; and diamond earrings, with a price tag of US$580,000 Platinum Guild International is pleased to share that leading red carpet jewellery brands such as Harry Winston, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Forevermark, Fred Leighton and Chopard chose to style A-list celebrities in naturally white platinum settings that truly enhance the brilliance of diamonds and coloured gemstones. Platinum has time and again topped jewellery design trends due to its superiority and remarkable qualities, as reflected by international celebrity red carpet appearances. All information provided by PGI JNA 24 MAY 2018
INNOVATIONS FORMICA bolsters position in synthetic gems sector Thailand-based Formica (Th) Co Ltd takes its synthetic gemstone expertise to the next level by rebranding its signature product as Siamite, a composite material combining glass with nanocrystals to achieve a resplendent colour and brightness vastly similar to gemstones. Formica (Th) Co Ltd has further expanded its foothold in the synthetic gemstone trade. With the renaming of its flagship product from Nanocrystals or Nanogems to Siamite, the company has also unveiled a new colour chart, featuring 600 different colours and shades, in transparent or opaque forms. Karen Avakyan, Formica Group CEO, said the company offers rough and cut synthetic stones, which come in a variety of colours including emerald, sapphire, ruby, rubellite, citrine, London blue topaz, garnet, peridot and tsavorite, among others. Formica produces about 10 tonnes of rough Siamite stones monthly in its factory in Thailand. The rough is then cut in its facilities in China, Thailand or Europe. According to Avakyan, these created stones are highly popular among manufacturers of silver or 14-karat gold jewellery. Some of its clients however are producers of 18-karat gold jewellery with diamonds. We offer not only rough materials for cutting. Our product portfolio mainly comprises cut and polished stones from 0.8mm to 20mm, in round to any fancy shape, the company official continued. Siamite Siamite is made of a nanocrystalline glass-ceramic material, which is composed of nanoscale crystals of spinel (gahnite), sapphirine, titanate, cordierite and other minerals (depending on the colour) that are uniformly distributed in the amorphous glass matrix. With a hardness of 7 to 7.5, a density of 3 to 3.3 g/cm 3 and a refractive index of 1.61 to 1.63, Siamite perfectly mimics the brightness, colour and density of gemstones. Growing market Avakyan revealed that buyers have become more receptive to synthetic gemstones over the years, thanks to these products versatility and competitive prices. The market for these products is growing. With a more challenging economic situation, people are Karen Avakyan, Formica Group CEO constantly looking for a smart alternative to gemstones. Siamite stones are just that they effortlessly replicate gemstones in colour, density, brightness and appearance but their prices are more reasonable, he noted. Siamite is also wax-castable, according to Avakyan. This means that Siamite is stable enough to withstand the casting process without cracking or losing its colour, unlike other synthetic stones, he added. Moving forward, the Formica official said the company continues to perform well in major markets such as the US, China, Thailand and Russia but it is hoping to strengthen its presence in emerging markets such as the Philippines, Indonesia, Vietnam and Australia. At the moment, the most sought-after Siamite colours are emerald, sapphire and ruby colours as well as black and turquoise, which is particularly favoured in Turkey and China. Avakyan is also maintaining an upbeat business outlook for 2018. We hope that our new colour chart and the wide range of colours that we offer will help strengthen the business even more. Since we manufacture rough and cut materials, buyers will always find their way to us as long as we provide innovative, top-quality products, he added. JNA 26 MAY 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES STAR QUALITY: The sparkle of celebrity marketing One of the surefire ways of tapping into a wide range of clientele be it in the jewellery industry or any other luxury sector is having a trusted, well-loved and admired celebrity to help market the product. JNA sits down with two celebrity marketing experts who talk about the value and effectiveness of such a marketing tactic. By Esther Ligthart Angelina Jolie wears a Samer Halimeh asscher-cut diamond drop earrings of 15.15 carats to the First They Killed My Father premiere in September 2017 at the 2017 Toronto International Film Festival in Toronto, Canada More than just a glamorous way of effectively promoting a broad array of products, celebrity marketing has time and again proven successful in attracting potential buyers. In the jewellery industry, red carpet events bode well for major jewellery houses who get optimum exposure when A-list celebrities wear their latest collections. What these stars wear are often subjects of articles in luxury publications the following day. The right celebrity can have a huge impact on sales but how do you get to the stars in the first place? Celebrity marketing specialists Ginnina D Orazio of D Orazio & Associates and Jen Cullen Williams of Luxury Brand Group share their expertise on the matter. JNA 28 MAY 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES JNA: When did celebrity marketing become popular? Ginnina D Orazio: It started in the early 2000s and has continually grown since then. This trend will gain more momentum with the ongoing development of social media. Jen Cullen Williams: Celebrity influence has been around for centuries, from ancient royalty to aspirational icons like Marilyn Monroe. Jewellery and fashion placement on celebrities began in the 1990s and has since developed into the landscape we know today with stylists, red carpet appearances, press junkets and the rise of social media. Celebrities and their managements will continue to use digital technology and get it now shopping tools to connect and engage with their followers, and secure more advertising contracts. Brands will continue to pursue and pay for those types of celebrity endorsements, yet the method of how and which platforms will change over time. Right now it s all about Instagram, but in a year or two it could be an entirely new platform. JNA: Who are more impactful, social media influencers or celebrities? D Orazio: There is value in social media influencers that shouldn t be overlooked, however celebrities have more legitimacy. There is an organic growth to their following for something they have done. They are brands themselves and when their brand aligns with a jeweller or fashion brand, their followers generally do as well. Cullen Williams: The answer is simple; a very broad audience. A-list celebrities are highly recognisable names and have an enormous global audience and cultural impact. The audience of social media influencers tends to be more niche and specific to the type of content they produce. If you search top celebrities of 2018, you ll likely recognise the list, whereas if you look for top digital influencers of 2018, majority of the names that will appear won t be familiar because you don t fit in their target clientele. Rihanna dons Le Vian ruby and diamond rings and a Dvani ruby and diamond ring at the 'Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the In-Between' Costume Institute Gala in New York City. Lady Gaga enthralls audiences while wearing Le Vian morganite and diamond earrings during her performance at the 60 th Annual Grammy Awards in New York City JNA 29 MAY 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES JNA: What should brands be willing to pay to embark on celebrity marketing? D Orazio: Costs vary depending on the brand and the services they are looking for. Services may include consulting, red carpet and editorials, among others. In terms of product, a brand should be able to provide 25 to 50 pieces to work with. Numbers vary according to necessity. For instance, awards seasons necessitate more product availability and brands need their pieces during jewellery trade shows. Sharon Stone wears Hueb diamond cluster earrings to the 75 th Annual Golden Globe Awards in Beverly Hills, California JNA: What type of celebrity marketing do clients mostly ask for? D Orazio: My clients ask for red carpet placements mainly because my company is known for this type of marketing. Often a stylist will place one of the brands on a celebrity, who then falls in love with the piece and the brand. Such relationships may eventually lead to an ambassadorship. Cullen Williams: It s hard to give an exact number on what a brand must be willing to spend. If a brand wants to work with a PR agency, they will need to factor in monthly agency project fees, retainers as well as insurance, shipping product, and possibly pay-for-play and/or product-gifting budgets. Getting a celebrity to endorse a brand with a campaign can cost anything from US$100,000 to several millions. Cullen Williams: Red carpet events are the kind of brand exposure my clients seek but they also love to see their jewellery worn by celebrities during fashion editorials and shows and after-awards parties, interviews and even in a celebrity s day-to-day outing. JNA: Do brands have a say as to which celebrities would wear their jewellery? D Orazio: Yes. From the start, we are in an open dialogue with the brand for their celebrity wishlist. It s important for us to understand who a brand feels aligns most with their image and appeals most to their clientele. However, we also advise our brands whether the celebrity is an up-and-comer/one-to-watch-out-for or intends to build a relationship with a stylist who might have a stellar roster. Cullen Williams: When we first go onboard with a new designer or brand, we establish a list of target celebrities we believe would be interested in its design aesthetic as a way of reaching that brand s target consumer. Each brand has its own look and feel, and each celebrity has her or his own style and jewellery preferences. We try to target celebrities (and their style teams) that are a good fit for our brand and the celebrity. Kendall Jenner dazzles in Djula black diamond earrings at the Los Angeles premiere of Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets in July last year JNA 30 MAY 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES JNA: How crucial is the role of celebrity marketing in the current luxury business landscape? D Orazio: Celebrity red carpet placement is an invaluable tool to help create brand awareness. The key is to stay consistent with it. This is a marathon, not a sprint. Cullen Williams: My recommendation is for brands to research their target customers as well as their market competitors and then build a well-rounded, omni-channel marketing plan each year. The marketing plan initiatives should be defined yet flexible and adaptable to the evolving consumer and marketplace. Amal Clooney dons a pair of diamond earrings by Gilan at the Watermark Conference for Women in San Jose, California About the interviewees Ginnina D Orazio started her business D Orazio & Associates in 2001 after recognising a gap in the market for fine jewellery celebrity placement. The company is based in Beverly Hills and New York and represents Borgioni, Butani, Djula, Gilan, Hearts on Fire, Le Vian and Mattia Cielo, among others. Jen Cullen Williams is managing director of the Luxury Brand Group or LBG, which was founded in 2004. The company is based in Los Angeles, Orange County and New York and has a showroom in West Hollywood. It represents Ben Bridge Jeweler, Cirari, Gem-Water, JCK Las Vegas, Michael John Jewelry, Picchiotti, Silver Promotion Service, V Tse, VICENZAORO and more. About the author Founder of jewellery blog Bizzita.com, Esther Ligthart has 25 years of international sales and marketing experience in the jewellery industry. She now enjoys contributing to trade and luxury magazines and working as a business consultant. JNA 31 MAY 2018
Emerald ring in 18-karat gold Sapphire and diamond ring in 18-karat gold DewCarat s universe of sophistication Jewellery designs that meld contemporary concepts with a classic touch inject elegance to any outfit. Hong Kong jeweller DewCarat Ltd presents a rich palette of blues, reds and greens interspersed with the brilliance of diamonds and the subtle perfection of pearls in this stunning selection of fine jewels. Sapphire bangle All jewellery images from DewCarat Ltd Rene Ruiz (Humberto Vidal / Shutterstock.com) JNA 32 MAY 2018
Necklace adorned with tanzanite stones and diamonds 18-karat gold ring with a South Sea pearl centre gem and ruby accents Diamond ring with a tanzanite centre stone Sapphire ring in 18-karat gold Diamond brooch with a South Sea pearl centre stone South Sea pearl and sapphire ring Custo Barcelona (Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock.com) JNA 33 MAY 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Magerit de Grisogono Mystic DREAMS Dreams are often construed as a glimpse into a parallel universe where the strange and the beautiful merge, giving birth to ethereal concepts and images. Fine jewellery pieces in solid colours and elegant designs impeccably mimic a dreamlike scenario. Crivelli JNA 34 MAY 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Anna Maria Cammilli Yoko London Roberto Bravo Gucci Pamella Roland (Sam Aronov / Shutterstock.com) JNA 35 MAY 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Chopard Boucheron Fa THE n COLOUR t asi OF e s Colours infuse vitality and character into an otherwise mundane universe. A splash of blue or green brings to mind the splendour of nature while pink, yellow and violet reflect femininity, contentment and strength respectively. Coloured gemstones likewise instil exceptional charm into jewellery pieces. Giovanni Ferraris JNA 36 MAY 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Tiffany & Co Sonja Kreis Victor Mayer Eve Cina (zhangjin_net / Shutterstock.com) JNA 37 MAY 2018
DESIGN ISABELLE LANGLOIS: CHARMED BY COLOURS French jewellery designer Isabelle Langlois is a paragon of creative freedom. An artist at heart and a perfectionist by profession, she designs jewellery pieces for strong-willed women. Using her innate talents, Langlois recreates a universe of colours and sublime fascination. By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Coloured gemstones are the crux of every Isabelle Langlois jewellery piece, the Franceborn designer tells JNA. Coming from a family of gemstone cutters and dealers, Langlois said she grew up literally surrounded by sparkling, colourful stones, which fuelled her compelling connection with the gemstone and jewellery world. All my creations are about colours, which I mix and match. In my latest collection, I matched gemstones with feathers. Combining coloured gemstones is like making music and when merged with feathers, the end product sings a stronger song, noted Langlois. The designer said she derives inspiration from almost anything around her but colours mostly play a crucial role in her creative process. Her latest collection, Panache, renders a lifelike appeal to nature-inspired designs through the use of authentic feathers whose soft, subtle texture beautifully contradicts a gemstone s shiny and hard exterior. I wanted to make a piece of jewellery where we can feel the feathers, which evoke freedom and vibrancy. The Panache collection makes use of real peacock, rooster or even guinea fowl feathers, noted Langlois. No feathers in my collection were forcibly plucked. Birds change their feathers every year and some were put down for their meat, not for their feathers. Panache ring with citrines, rhodolites, pink tourmalines, yellow sapphires, diamonds and pheasant feathers and Pétale earrings in pink gold with amethysts, diamonds, garnets, pink tourmalines, rhodolites and sapphires JNA 40 MAY 2018
DESIGN Pieces from the Panache collection are adorned with gems in complementing colours such as refreshing green tourmalines and quartz stones, peridots and tsavorites; glowing pink sapphires and tourmalines; and fancy sapphires and diamonds, among others. The pieces are set in pink, yellow or white gold. In Langlois other collections, underrated gemstones take centre stage for their one-of-a-kind characteristics. Prehnite and rainbow moonstone also figure a lot in my pieces. Prehnite is a greyish-green stone that is full of mystery. It s not completely transparent but still somehow it is. I also like iolite, revealed the designer. Her favourite stone however is Padparadscha sapphire, which is sought after for its enchanting orangey-pink hue. Chrysoberyl in shades of green or yellow and peridot are next on her list. Pétale ring in pink gold with amethysts, peridots, pink tourmalines, sapphires and tsavorites If I had gone to a design school, I probably won t be running my own company; I d be designing for someone else with no creative freedom. That would have been frustrating. Isabelle Langlois The woman of today According to Langlois, her pieces celebrate femininity and women who relentlessly champion pro-female causes. When these women wear jewellery, it makes them feel special. Jewellery enhances their beauty. My buyers are usually strong-minded ladies, and their tastes are different from others. These are empowered women who know what they want and are not afraid to express it, she remarked. These women are on the lookout for something different so they can stand out in a crowd, she added. Langlois herself is a force to be reckoned with in the jewellery world. A woman of perseverance and character, she opted to go to business school instead of doing design courses. I wanted to be my own boss so I got a business degree. I took up gemmological courses too but I wanted to build my business acumen first. Designing was second nature to me anyway, she said. If I had gone to a design school, I probably won t be running my own company; I d be designing for someone else with no creative freedom. That would have been frustrating. Langlois customer portfolio currently includes the French, Chinese and Japanese markets but she also has clients from Australia, Costa Rica, the Netherlands, the UK, Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland and Norway. She recently found new customers from New Zealand, Russia, Japan and Thailand at the March Hong Kong Fair. Jewellery remains a luxury item but the buying process and the piece itself involve a great deal of emotion, noted Langlois. In essence, while political and economic stability may affect consumer confidence, a unique jewellery piece will always be viewed as a source of positive feelings and find its way into the hearts and jewellery boxes of serious buyers and collectors, she added. JNA 41 MAY 2018
DESIGN ELEGANCE OF FORM AND FUNCTION Sarah Zhuang is making her mark with innovative and enchanting multifunctional jewellery. The young Hong Kong jewellery designer creates contemporary fine jewellery to enable modern women to shine in a fast-paced world. By Elmo Wong As they rise in power and social stature, modern women juggle various roles in society and contend with schedules packed with events from day to night. In such a fast-paced world, flexibility and versatility are a must. This necessarily extends to their jewellery, Sarah Zhuang tells JNA. The Hong Kong designer removed the diamond chandelier earrings she was wearing, and demonstrated how the gold tassel could be detached from the ballshaped diamond pavé earrings to create two styles a chic look for the office during the day and an elegant one for an evening party. A good piece of jewellery should be beautiful, comfortable and easy to wear. But nowadays, people are also seeking functionality, she revealed. Zhuang had been interested in art and design since she was young, paving the road to her future career. It was, however, only when she completed jewellery design courses in Hong Kong and Italy that she truly fell in love with the boundless creative possibilities in jewellery design. She then joined her family s jewellery company as a designer but found that her aesthetic diverged from traditional jewellery. To express her personal style, she established her own brand, Sarah Zhuang Jewellery, in 2016. Sarah Zhuang s 7-in-1 jewellery tourbillion watch whose accents can be turned into rings and pendants JNA 42 MAY 2018
DESIGN To each her own Zhuang believes that every woman has her own character and charm. Her stylish diamond jewellery therefore celebrates the independence and confidence of modern women through bold designs. Each of her brand s five collections personifies a unique trait of contemporary women. Spread Your Wings alludes to the free spirit of ambitious, determined women. Dancing Butterflies represents joy and positive attitudes, while Lady Rose reflects sophistication and elegance. Enchanted Pearl embodies modesty and innocence, and Mix & Match caters to cool, confident ladies. I always design with a particular type of woman in mind. What is her style? What kind of jewellery best suits her personality? I come up with designs that fit her character, Zhuang disclosed, adding that she hoped her jewellery would empower women to succeed in different fields. Innovative touches Crafted in 18-karat gold, Zhuang s jewellery is designed to be worn in multiple ways. Each jewellery piece has movable and detachable parts to create different styles. My all-in-one jewellery allows women to express their personality and showcase their fashion sense for different occasions. I emphasise design functionality. The idea is to accommodate the busy lifestyle of modern women, the designer remarked. Zhuang s creativity has not gone unnoticed; it has won her numerous accolades as she builds her reputation as one of the city s most promising young designers. Her Urban Reflection collection of rings that recreates Hong Kong s beautiful skyline of iconic landmarks won the Best Sarah Zhuang, founder of Sarah Zhuang Jewellery The Mix & Match Collection captures the cool and confident aura of stylish modern women of Show Award at the 19 th Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. The exquisite rings innovatively depict Hong Kong s landscape when worn side by side, and its reflection in the harbour when worn upside down. Eyeing the global stage The award, Zhuang hopes, is just the beginning of a wondrous journey of creativity. At present, her brand has a showroom in Hong Kong s Tsim Sha Tsui district and was introduced in Japan last year after a fortuitous encounter. A distributor from Japan chanced upon Zhuang s intricate jewellery tourbillion watch, which can be transformed into seven different items, and was stunned by its exceptionally feminine yet chic design. With Zhuang s creations enchanting Japanese consumers, the brand established a foothold in the Japanese market for its ability to meld creativity and complexity in innovatively multifunctional creations. Going into retail herself by opening a boutique is however not on Zhuang s to-do list. Instead, she plans to expand her brand through extensive marketing and active participation in international fairs. She is joining a designer jewellery show in Singapore this September and intends to host private events in Chinese cities in the coming years, as she steadily marches towards her ultimate goal of making Sarah Zhuang Jewellery an international brand. JNA 43 MAY 2018
DESIGN GOLD JEWELLERY REVOLUTION Winning entries of the Chuk Kam Jewellery Design Competition 2018 aim to refresh the image of gold jewellery among millennial consumers by injecting zest and sparkle in the product category. By Elmo Wong Gold has always been a symbol of wealth and luxury. But while Chinese consumers remain partial to gold jewellery, yellow gold is increasingly perceived in some quarters as traditional and old-fashioned. The rise of millennial consumers now warrants a fresher and more modern image for gold jewellery that appeals to the market s ever-changing preferences. Organised by the Hong Kong Jewellers' & Goldsmiths' Association, the Chuk Kam Jewellery Design Competition 2018 aims to raise the standard of creativity and craftsmanship of gold jewellery while boosting sales of this product category. This year s theme was The Age of Distinctively Gold: Capture the spirit of our time to revitalise gold jewellery, which echoes the design ideology of the World Gold Council. The competition had three design directions: Individuality in the Mainstream; Cultural Revitalisation; and Innovation and Rhythm. Contestants were required to design jewellery in pure gold and in 18-karat gold for each category s Open Group and Fashionable 18K Group respectively. Following a rigorous judging process, 19 outstanding designs were selected as winners. Individuality in the Mainstream FASHIONABLE 18K GROUP WINNER VITALITY Tang Wai Ying Jennifer King Fook Holdings Ltd Individuality in the Mainstream OPEN GROUP WINNER SEEKING COMMON GROUND WHILE RESERVING DIFFERENCES Wu Chui Luen C. S. S. Jewellery Co Ltd JNA 44 MAY 2018
DESIGN Cultural Revitalisation FASHIONABLE 18K GROUP WINNER BLUEBIRD Lo Yim Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co Ltd Cultural Revitalisation OPEN GROUP WINNER INK Leung Shu Yan Katex Trading Ltd Innovation and Rhythm FASHIONABLE 18K GROUP WINNER FOLLOW THE HEART Li Yim Luk Fook Holdings (International) Ltd Innovation and Rhythm OPEN GROUP WINNER FUTURE COLORS Jonjen Cheung Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co Ltd JNA 45 MAY 2018
FAIRS HAPPENINGS ISTANBUL FAIR reports higher buyer turnout The March 2018 edition of the Istanbul Jewelry Show once again placed Turkey in the international limelight, attracting more than 30,000 local and foreign visitors who were on the lookout for top-quality gold, diamond and silver jewellery as well as jewellery manufacturing equipment. By Bernardette Sto. Domingo The 46th Istanbul Jewelry Show (IJS) concluded on a positive note, with some exhibitors reporting steady business throughout the four-day fair. Organised by UBM Rotaforte and sponsored by Türk Ekonomi Bankası, the trade show attracted 30,042 visitors from 121 countries, up 21 percent from the March 2017 edition. Gary Karabulut, export manager at Mioro, said the company mainly entertained existing customers during the fair. We did well on the first day. There were days when mornings were quiet but activity would pick up again in the afternoon, said Karabulut on the third day of the show. There were not a lot of new customers but we did good business with our existing clients. The Middle East, Dubai in particular, was still the strongest market for Mioro. Buyers were a bit apprehensive though in light of a 5 percent value-added tax implemented in Dubai on January 1. This resulted in buyers becoming even more cautious in the beginning of the year but business has since improved, noted Karabulut. Mioro unveiled new collections at the show, which were positively received by the market, he added. 1 2 3 While we specialise in gold chains, we continue to diversify. We have been in the business for 40 years. We are more than just a company; we re a brand. We are known for delivering high-quality products and services, he continued. Volkan Alkan of Regold, meanwhile, noted the market s continued appetite for gold and diamond jewellery. The company s buyers, mainly from Dubai, JNA 46 MAY 2018
FAIRS HAPPENINGS Bahrain, Qatar, Russia, Romania and other European countries, were also looking for competitively priced items, he added. We always try to achieve some balance. Customers want cheaper goods and we emphasise quality so we provide a wide range of products, from 14-karat and 18-karat gold jewellery to diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery, remarked Alkan. Business was steady for us. The challenge is how to entice a younger generation of buyers to purchase jewellery instead of gadgets. That s a potential market we want to explore, said Alkan. Fair features The show featured 1,250 exhibitors who displayed their latest products and services from March 22 to 25 at CNR Expo Istanbul Fair Center. Vendors showcased a wide range of products including gold and gem-set jewellery; loose diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls; silver jewellery and accessories; and jewellery machinery and equipment. The fair also featured jewellery mounting companies, who were among the top performers at the show. Data from UBM Rotaforte showed that 63 percent of visitors were from Turkey while 37 percent were from other countries. The top 20 visiting countries were Iran, Saudi Arabia, Algeria, Iraq, India, the UAE, Lebanon, Russia, Jordan, Morocco, Egypt, Israel, Ukraine, Tunisia, Azerbaijan, Germany, Palestine, Greece, Italy and Pakistan. IJS March also included a series of seminars on the diamond industry organised by HRD Antwerp. Jewellery designers, meanwhile, were given a chance to showcase their latest creations at an expansive designers section. Organised every year by JTR, the Designer Market brought together veteran and up-and-coming jewellery designers who displayed their signature designs and collections in an easily accessible part of the exhibition venue, making it easier for potential buyers to spot them. The Istanbul Jewelry Show held twice a year in March and October respectively brings together more than 45,000 trade buyers and over 845 exhibitors from Turkey and other countries, according to UBM Rotaforte. Over the years, the show has provided an effective platform for exhibitors and buyers to meet and do business, it added. The show s 47 th edition is scheduled for October 11 to 14. 1. A buyer checks out pearl and coloured gemstone jewellery pieces 2. Gold jewellery on display on the show floor 3. Buyers registering for the 46 th Istanbul Jewelry Show Europe s top show for gemstones and jewellery. Promising future. be part of gemworldmunich.com
FAIRS HAPPENINGS BASELWORLD 2018: Smaller show, bigger opportunities A more upbeat sentiment permeated Baselworld 2018, with organisers calling it a successful show despite fewer exhibitors. The latter, for their part, reported satisfactory results, saying Baselworld continues to be a relevant business platform for the international jewellery and watch industry. By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Buyers at Baselworld 2018 Baselworld once renowned as the largest trade show for the global watch and jewellery industry held annually in Basel, Switzerland has undergone a drastic change in format and strategy. The 2018 edition was two days shorter than previous shows while the number of exhibitors was halved to 650 from 1,300 in 2017. Organisers also reduced this year s exhibition space. While Baselworld 2018 managed to retain its sparkle, with some vendors even saying the new arrangement was ultimately beneficial to them, further changes may need to be implemented to ensure the show s sustainability and significance. New era René Lauper of Switzerland-based fine jewellery manufacturer Frieden Ltd Creative Design said the show was surprisingly satisfactory for the company. The changes were daunting but the show turned out quite positive for us. The number of buyers was the same more or less and since the show was more concentrated, there was less competition, stated Lauper. Frieden s fastest-moving products were diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery. Buyers were partial to classic, tried-and-tested jewellery designs, owing to a more challenging global economy. The company met with clients from Switzerland, the UK, Germany and Austria. Lauper emphasised the importance of Baselworld in finding quality buyers and forging business contacts. The crowd at Baselworld is more international compared to all other global fairs mainly because of the high-end brands that in turn attract high-end customers. We want to use this to our advantage to strengthen our business network, he continued. JNA 48 MAY 2018
FAIRS HAPPENINGS Watch and bangles by Charriol Earrings by Etho Maria Dr. Konrad Henn of German coloured gemstone specialist Karl Faller said he also had low expectations at the start of the show. We were a bit concerned about how the changes would impact the number of visitors but on the contrary, we ended up liaising with a great deal of buyers, many of whom were top-level customers, he remarked. The company also found new clients from Asia, Australia, the US, Europe and Switzerland. Buyer demographics have however changed over the years. According to Henn, a wide range of customers including goldsmiths and family-owned companies used to visit Baselworld back when the costs were more reasonable. Soaring costs, in effect, limited the kind of products exhibitors could bring to the show. What made Baselworld very attractive was the full range of buyers visiting the show and broad product displays, explained Henn. In general, Baselworld remains to be the only avenue where high-level business transactions take place. There is still vast potential but the costs are too high. Mervyn Tam, executive director at Charriol, likewise reported robust business at the show. The company entertained new buyers from China and Southeast Asia who were asking for mid-priced products (US$1,200 to US$1,500). He also underscored Baselworld s role as an effective platform to network with customers. Brands rely on Baselworld, a world-class fair, to meet and greet clients. It remains an essential platform for us. However, the show needs to adopt certain changes and perhaps reach out to a wider audience, including emerging markets such as China, noted Tam. Baselworld 2019 According to Baselworld s Managing Director Sylvie Ritter, the overall number of visitors this year remained unchanged despite the changes. In fact, the revamped format, fewer exhibitors and shorter duration, were positively received, she said. All leading brands have also committed to exhibit at Baselworld 2019. Definitive commitments have been received from Rolex, Swatch Group, Patek Philippe, LVMH, Chopard, Breitling, Chanel and many other brands, revealed Ritter. René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group AG, had a favourable outlook: I believe that Baselworld s present dimensions with 650 brands are optimal. We now have a tailwind for 2019. New initiatives will also be implemented during Baselworld 2019, which is scheduled for March 21 to 26, noted Kamm. The management will work closely with exhibitors to define new formats for various sectors. These new formats will offer medium-sized businesses a presence at Baselworld in line with their needs, the organisers said. Luxury watch by Bulgari JNA 49 MAY 2018