TechnicalManualcolor
TechnicalManualcolor USER S GUIDE INDEX Presentation of colorations...4 Dilution ratios...6 Method...8 Colorè...14 How to apply Coloré Oil and Colorcream... 16 Remix...22 Remix special effects...26 Fusion formulas of Remix and Jollyre...28 Jollyre...32
PRESENTATION OF COLORATIONS WAKEUP COLOR The colors Wakeup lines provide the highest quality of tools that allow you to get a certain result! With this guide you can optimize product performance and satisfy the most demanding needs of your customers. 4
FEATURES ensured protective treating action from KALMS Organic Coverage KALMS organic coverage SERICINA MIELE LATTE ALOE KERATINA 5
DILUTION RATIOS Higher efficiency OF COLORATION PROCESS OF COLORATION AND REFLECTIONS FAITHFUL, Higher capacity OF COLORATION, MAJOR PROTECION OF HAIR AND DURATION. The Wakeup Colorations are reliable: a wide range of colors mixable each others. With an easy choose and use. A real professional tool to combining the binomial health-beauty! The features are in fact such as to allow, in addition to a great reliability, also the fidelity of the shades and high color duration in the time. 1:1 1:1,5 1:1 1:2 With the super-lightener: 1:2 1:2 1:2 1:2 Formats: 100 and 200 ml Reduced color stock in the saloon Less waste product 6
OUR COLORS HAVE LOW ALKALINE CONTENT Our formulas works with a low alkaline content coloring action that reduces hair stress, making hair brighter and with better cosmetic effect REDUCED puffing up hair action REDUCED lifting the cuticle MORE hair brightness and naturalness Precolor Advice It is important to evaluate the starting color based upon the desired result. Keep in mind that a professional oxidation color has a bleaching power of 3-4 tone levels, up to a maximum of 5 levels with the super-lightener, in relationship with the starting color (natural base), the hair structure (fine, medium, thick) and the oxygen volumes. If hair are too dark, this means that the melanin quantity and quality are highly concentrated and this interferes with the bleaching. Therefore you should evaluate the starting color and the oxygen volumes to utilize. In this phase consider as the starting color the natural one (never colored); in case of cosmetic color dyed hair, you should consider it as the starting color, because it will affect the result. In the color service, the final result is given by the combination of base color with the oxidation permanent color applied.. Starting Base Color Applied Color + = Result 7
METHOD The application method has a very important role in the final result. For example, if you need to cover gray hair, instinctively you will be taken to use a larger amount of color; However, during the oxidation of the pigments, the excess product on the hair It can prevent complete development of color. Differently, in the bleaching with super lightening, the application must be done in a more abundant way. Basic colors and types of colorations For basic color it means the color of the hair on which you will apply the mixture of our colors with the Activator oxidant. The background color can be classified as NATURAL Never colored hair ARTIFICIAL Previously colored hair MIXED With natural growth hair and colored lengths When you want to create a dark color such as black, the intensity and the concentration of oxidation pigments are such as to cover the lighter base color. If you have to realize blond, new color molecules (oxidation pigments) cannot be able to neutralize the color of the background reflections (base) and the final result can present unwanted warm reflections (especially if you color lightening and starting from a dark background color). More natural color is dark, the greater must be the bleaching power of the mixture (color Oil and Color Cream + cosmetic oxidant). The base color has a considerable importance in the final result, but affects differently according to the type of service that it must be perform. Dye your hair a darker color than the base color is considered a color in pigmenting action. Dye the hair with the same height of the background color tone, it is considered a coloring in semi-permanent action. Dye your hair a lighter color, it is considered a coloring super lightening action. 8
THE PIGMENTED COLORATIONS Coloring with darker tones - The oxidation pigments, in a mixture with oxygen at low volumes (10 vol - 3%), perform a maximum deposit action, adding an artificial color to that base, without producing any lightening effect. The basic color, being clearer, it will not affect the blend color. Apply the chosen color (darker) with the only care that is balanced (reflection). The risk you run by applying colors mainly studied for have reflexes in lightening (fancy or trendy), it is that not have sufficient component natural or brown-red tones. If you decide to color in pigmenting action, are not necessary corrective mixtures which tend to supply of red, if the color you choose is up to 2 darker tones (ex. Natural base 6, color applied 4 to 10 vol.). If you choose many different colors (ex. Natural base 6, applied color 2.0), first you need to do a re-pigmentation o pre-pigmentation to build the missing pigmentation of hair that will serve as color support. In this way you will give life to an effective and long lasting color service. In case of difference of 2 or more shades of color, we recommend to do a re-pigmentation. Semipermanent Action Coloration If you want to realize a semipermanent color, the dilution with Oxire Light Activator is 1:3. In this case, you will have a shorter duration and a limited grey hair coverage; so, you will have to work only on the color deposit without bleaching natural hair. Lightening Action Coloration It need more evaluation, since during bleaching, there are more problems and you need to satisfy simultaneously more requirements Bleaching dark hair Color grey hair Give hair highlights Color with lighter tones Most of applied coloration is used to bleach, with less color deposit. The base color and its helping pigment become very important, because you do a dual action, but you need to remove more base color If the color you want to make is lighter than the starting color, with less power to cover unwanted residue highlight, it will affected more by the base color than when you want to darken. 9
To predict the end result, you will have to consider what level of color and highlights will emerge from this change. Remember that the oxidation color bleaches and recolor the natural hair. The result is always the sum of oxidation cosmetic pigment and bleached natural pigment. In the bleaching process, the natural pigments go through various stages and at each tone height corresponds to a brightening base, to which you add cosmetic color. Regardless of the tone height, there is always a warm highlight, ranging from red to yellow orange, you need to evaluate, by behaving differently in the case of a color to darken, in the same tone or to brighten. You should consider that the different pigments that make up the base color don t bleach as easily and behave like the cosmetic ones: the melanin black pigment is easier to bleach than the brown-red one, brown-red easier than red and red pigment easier than yellow. Brightening Base 10
COLORÈ COVER YOUR HAIR WITH GOLD
OIL AND CREAM COLOR WITH LOW ALKALINE CONTENT AND THE LATEST GENERATION OF COLOR PIGMENTS THAT LOWER THE PERCENTAGE OF SKIN SENSITIZATIONS THANKS TO ITS INNOVATIVE FORUMULA Colorè Oil Innovative formula with low alkaline content, greatly decreases skin sensitization. Latest generation color pigments for multifaceted colors, maximum cover with a natural and soft result. Dilution 1:1 and 1:2 with super-lighteners. Color Cream Revolutionary formula without resorcin, p-phenylenediamine and parabens with low alkaline content: greatly decreases the skin sensitization by reducing the occurrence of dermatitis, allergic reactions and hypersensitivity. Designed to obtain richer colors with more intense covers. Dilution 1:1.5 and 1:2 with super-lighteners. 14
HOW TO USE COLORÈ OIL AND COLOR CREAM 7 Tone Family For every necessity Mixing Colorè Oil (38 nuances) 1:1 Mixing Colorcream (35 nuances) 1:1,5 Mixing Super-Lightener 1:2 both Color Oil and Color cream Let it rest for 30/35 minutes Super Lightener 40/45 minutes Gold serigraphy package Oil and black-gold Cream. High refined pigments Low alkaline content Oxigen Activator The choice of oxygen will be determined by color type and by the lightener strength For cream color LIGHT ACTIVATOR Covering strength and 1 lightener tone 20 VOLUMES Covering strength and 2 lightener tones 30 VOLUMES Covering strength and 3 lightener tones 40 VOLUMES 4 lightener tones For oil color GOLD 10 VOLUMES NEW 25 VOLUMES 40 VOLUMES It s possible mixing the two colors (oil + cream) to obtain a unique result for cover and reflexes. When mixing Colorè Oil + Color Cream the dilution will be: 1:1.5 15
HOW TO APPLY COLORÈ OIL AND COLOR CREAM How to apply colors becomes more important to obtain the desired result, so you need to work on small locks, with 0.5 cm between them, applying the right quantity of product. Colors guarantee 100% cover of grey hair. If you use reflexed color (5.2 light brown irisè) on more than 50% of grey hair, add 1/3 of natural color, with the same tone height, for optimum cover. ITCH Anomalies for diagnosis negligence It can happen with less or more then the right dose of mixed oxygen ITCH DURING THE WEEK Can be caused by unsuitable rinse or wash COLOR RELEASE ON FRONT During rinse pay attention to remove in the right way the color from skin APPLICATION METHODOLOGY Sometimes the low amount of color applied may create problems in covering
POOR COVERAGE OF WHITE HAIR Sometimes it can happen that, while respecting all the criteria, some colors do not lead to the bottom of their task. Color did not cover well grey hair HOW TO DO? 1 2 Prepare the chosen color with an oxidant development at 25 volumes (half 20 and half 30 volumes). This allows the color to penetrate into the hair in a larger Prepare the color half a tone darker then the chosen color (if you decided to do a 5.0, prepare half 4.0 and half 5.0 with an oxidant development at 30 volumes, the final result will be always amount ensuring better coverage. a 5.0, but it will cover more gray hair) When dilute the color If the applied color is half a tone darker than length and tips color, after letting it rest for 25 minutes, dilute with water and let it work for 5 minutes. If the applied color is a tone darker that length and tips color, after letting it rest for 20 minutes, dilute with the remaining color and let it work for 10 minutes. If the applied color is more than a tone and half darker that length and tips color, apply it on the base, length and tips. In case the tips can t absorb color, mix with the appropriate Remix tone for length and tips. 17
HOW TO UNIFY A COLOR IF THE TIPS ARE CLEARER AND REFRACTORY After coloring you may experience anomalies on lengths and tips. This could happen due to the excessive porosity of the treated hair which is not able to retain inside it the pigments (color discharge quickly during washing). In these cases, first you should pass the chosen mixed color with oxidant at 10 volumes on too porous regions; afterward, apply the same mixed color with an oxidant at 20 volumes (or 25 Gold) on lengths and tips. Never Colored Natural Hair Sometimes you need to color a never colored hair (even very long hair). For examples for a super-lightener: natural base 5.0, desired color evenly 9.0 Apply the super-lightener, with oxygen at 40 vol. (1:2), from 1.5cm from the base on the whole length. After 25 minutes, remove the excess of color with wide teeth comb. Prepare again the same formula and apply it on base, lengths and tips. Let it rest for 40 minutes, then pr oceed to wash Use the same technique for all the coloring. For example: the reds, the coppers and in case of bleaching on never colored hair (the choice of oxidant is based upon the desired result). Natural neutral without shade Ash cold base green/blue Irisee cold base blue/red Golden cold base yellow Golden copper warm base orange/yellow Mahogany cold base red/blue Red warm base red Coloring tone family 18
REMIX CREATE VIVID AND BRILLIANT COLORS
REMIX IS A COLOR, MAGIC BRILLIANT AND VERSATILE. A new generation product that you can use like a traditional color mixed with color oil and color cream. For new and creative nuances and mixed with jollyré for absolutely unique performances. 22
HOW TO USE REMIX Mixed 1:1 Let it rest for 30 minutes Red serigraphy package High refined pigments Low alkaline content Features If you use like a traditional color, it covers 80% of white hairs. You can mix it with all our colors to create new reflexes. It lightens the natural basis up to 3 levels depending on the oxidant used. Remix is a color that you can apply both on washed and unwashed hairs. Do a technical analysis (follow the folder) Choose the nuance Choose oxidant strength With more than 50% of white hairs, add a third of natural base Colorè Oil or Color Cream with the same tone height Make the right application according to desired color Possible Mixture When you mix Remix consider that the tone and reflex you want to obtain will be the union of tone height and tone E.g. ½ 4 dark brown + ½ 6 red = 5 red brown E.g. ½ 5 warm brown + ½ 7 sand brown = 6 warm sand brown E.g. ½ 6 purple + ½ 8 golden copper = 7 golden purple 23
TONE 4. Dark brown cold 5. Cold brown cold 5. Warm brown warm 6. Mahogany brown warm 6. Red warm 7. Copper warm 7. Sand brown warm/cold 8. Purple sand cold 8. Golden copper warm 6. Purple cold (delicate during discharge) They can all be mixed between them and the number indicates tone height Fusion Formulas Remix And Colorè REMIX + LIGHT ACTIVATOR (To cover white hairs and reflexes) REMIX + ACTIVATOR 20 VOLUMES (To cover white hairs and to light 1 tone) - Light REMIX + ACTIVATOR 30 VOLUMES (To cover white hairs and to light 2 tones) REMIX + ACTIVATOR 40 VOLUMES Sand (To light 3 tones) Light 24
FORMULE IN FUSIONE REMIX E COLORÈ ACTIVATOR 5 WARM BROWN ½ warm brown + ½ 5.0 warm light brown 5 WARM LIGHT BROWN 1/3 warm brown + 2/3 5.0 light brown 8 SAND LIGHT BLONDE ½ 8 purple sand + ½ 8.0 light blonde 8 NATURAL LIGHT BLONDE Light 1/3 8 purple sand + 2/3 8.0 blonde (Other examples are visible on the color folder) This examples are just a guide. It is possible to obtain numerous new nuances mixing our colors. The most important thing is to calculate the final result of the mixing 25
SPECIAL EFFECTS REMIX To obtain a 6 Purple, 6 Red, 7 Copper from the folder LIGHT WITH DECORÈ THE PART THAT YOU WANT TO LIGHT AT 8/9 LEVEL. RINSE, DO A SHAMPOO AND DAB PREPARE CHOSEN REMIX WITH LIGHT ACTIVATOR APPLY ON WET HAIRS (LET IT REST FOR 25 MINUTES) RINSE, DO A LIGHT SHAMPOO AND DRY 26
PRE-PIGMENTATION WITH REMIX Use the pre-pigmentation to give a quantity of hot pigmentation inside the hair when you want to dark it beyond two tones. START FROM A 8/9 BLONDE TO ARRIVE AT A 4.0 NATURAL BROWN Apply on dry hair the 5 warm brown with Light Activator for 20 minutes Rinse, do a shampoo, dry and reapply 4.0 brown with Activator 20 volumes After 30 minutes, do a shampoo for the color and dry Use 5 warm brown color for the pre-pigmentation. START FROM A 7/8 BLONDE TO ARRIVE AT 5.0 LIGHT BROWN Apply on dry hair 30ml of 5 warm brown + 20 ml of 8 golden copper with Light Activator for 20 minutes Rinse, do a shampoo, dry and reapply 5.0 light brown with Activator 20 volumes After 30 minutes, do a shampoo for the color and dry The two colors that you need to use for the pre-pigmentation are 5 warm brown and 8 golden copper Consider that the pigmentation needs always to be a tone lighter than the chosen color and that the proportions will be given by these two nuances (5 warm brown and 8 golden copper). 27
FUSION FORMULAS REMIX AND JOLLYRÈ REMIX IS DESIGNED IN A SPECIAL WAY TO GIVE YOU THE POSSIBILITY TO INVENT UNIQUE MIXTURES AND RELIABLE AND INIMITABLE RESULTS. REMIX MIXED WITH JOLLYRÈ CREATES UNIQUE SHADES ON LIGHT OR PRE-BLEACHED HAIRS. After you pre-bleach hair (streaks, highlights, shatush, decolorations or super-lighters reaching at least level 7/8/9 or even 10) you can personalize the color without utilize it to remove yellow. The union of Remix with Jollyrè let you create new, unique and personalized colors. 28
HOW TO DO The mix of Remix and Jollyrè doesn t change the natural hair color that you didn t pre-bleach Apply the bleach product (Decorè) on hairs After reaching the right lightening depending on the desired result, rinse and do a light shampoo Dab the hairs and prepare the chosen mix Apply on all the hairs and let it rest for 25 minutes Rinse and do a light shampoo again Dry Examples HAIRS PREVIOUSLY LIGHTED AT LEVEL 9 Prepare 30ml of Jolly V + 10ml of 6 purple Remix + Light Activator mixed 1:2 Result: extra light purple level 8 HAIRS PREVIOUSLY LIGHTED AT LEVEL 8 Prepare 30ml of Jolly V + 5ml of Remix 6 purple and 5ml of Remix 6 red + Light Activator mixed 1:2 Result: light amaranth level 7 HAIRS PREVIOUSLY LIGHTED AT LEVEL 7 Prepare 20ml of Jolly S + 20ml of Remix 5 cold brown + Light Activator 1:2 Result: medium cold brown blond level 7 HAIRS PREVIOUSLY LIGHTED AT LEVEL 9 Prepare 30ml of Jolly C + 5ml of Remix 4 rich brown + Light Activator mixed 1:2 Result: cold extra light blonde level 9 Other examples can be viewed in the color folder. Also, depending on your imagination, you can create new formulas to customize any type of color. 29
JOLLYRÈ CREATE CUSTOMIZED HIGHLIGHTS FOR UNIQUE BLONDES
JOLLYRÈ IS AN IMPORTANT EVOLUTION FOR BLONDE HAIR TREATMENT, BLEACHED, WITH STREAKS, OR PREVIOUSLY LIGHTED IT IS A COSMETIC COLOR WITH VERY LOW ALKALINITY AND WITH A LOW WEIGHT OF COLOR, DESIGNED TO WORK ON THOSE TYPES OF HAIR IN ABSOLUTE PEACE. DURING APPLICATION YOU DON T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT WRONG RESULTS OR DIFFERENT HIGHLIGHTS. JOLLYRÈ IS DESIGNED TO HARMONIZE STREAKS, BLEACHING AND SUPER-LIGHTERS. IF NECESSARY, IT CAN COMPENSATE FOR THE YELLOW, ALLOWING TO CUSTOMIZE HIGHLIGHTS; THIS WAY YOU CAN CREATE UNIQUE BLONDES! 32
HOW TO USE JOLLYRÈ DILUITION 1:2 ON PRE-WASHED HAIR LET IT REST FOR 20 MINUTES SILVER SERIGRAPHY PACKAGE HIGH REFINED PIGMENTS LOW ALKALINE CONTENT SPECIFIC PIGMENT QUANTITY FOR BLONDE HAIR 33
5 NUANCES To create new and performing solutions JOLLY A steel (very cold reflex) JOLLY C ash (cold reflex) JOLLY V purple (neutralizing reflex) JOLLY S sand (warm cold reflex) + JOLLY D golden (give a light golden) JOLLY N neutral Brightening base and neutralizing tone To enable you to understand and predict the resulting color, we point out the construction of the highlights for each color family. 34
HOW TO TONE STREAKS WITHOUT BLEACHING NATURAL HAIRS Do streaks, with your chosen technique, with Decorè Reach lighting level between 8 and 10 Rinse and do a shampoo. Dab hair Choose the nuance Jolly (A-C-V-S-D) and mix with Light Activator (10 volumes) Apply on all hairs: base, full length and tips After 20 minutes rinse and do a shampoo Dry How to tone streaks and lightly bleach natural hairs Do streaks, with your chosen technique, with Decorè Reach lighting level between 8 and 10 Rinse and do a shampoo. Dab hair Choose the nuance Jolly (A-C-V-S-D) and mix with Light Activator: 20 volumes to tone streaks and light natural hairs of half a tone 30 volumes to tone streaks and light natural hairs up to a tone Apply on all hairs: base, full length and tips After 20 minutes rinse and do a shampoo Dry 35
HOW TO USE JOLLY AFTER BLEACHING OR A SUPER-LIGHTER ON ALL HAIR Apply the mix: 30ml of Decorè + 30ml of Jolly N with 120ml of Light Activator at 20 or 30 volumes depending the starting base (the darker the base higher the oxygen); or apply the super-lighter with a dilution of 1:2 with Oxirè at 40 volumes Wait for the bleaching to reach the desired level (8-9-10), carefully rinse and do a shampoo, rinse again and dab. Choose the Jolly nuance based upon you want to cool (A-C), to neutralize (V) or to warm highlights (S-D). The push of Jolly (neutralizing or exaltation of blonde hair obtained with previous works) will be determined by the used oxygen levels: 10 VOLUMES 20 VOLUMES 30 VOLUMES The higher the oxygen volume the greater the yeld of Jolly How to use: how and when use JOLLY N Mixed with 10/20/30 volumes Mixed with Oxirè 40 volumes lets the decapage of colored hairs up to two levels 36
JOLLY N MIXED WITH DECORÈ 30ml of Jolly N + 30ml of Decorè dilution 1:2 with oxidant 10 vol. for skin lightening and streaks, let it rest for an hour, 4 levels of lightening 30ml of Jolly N + 30ml of Decorè dilution 1:2 with oxidant 20 vol. for skin lightening and streaks, let it rest for 50 minutes, 4 levels of lightening 30ml of Jolly N + 30ml of Decorè dilution 1:2 with oxidant 30 vol. for skin lightening and streaks, let it rest for 45 minutes, 5 levels of lightening 30ml of Jolly N + 30ml of Decorè dilution 1:2 with oxidant for 40 vol. for streaks and lightening effects, let it rest for 40 minutes, 6 levels of lightening Positioning of our colors in the color circle 37
Via Roma 133-23855 Pescate (LC) Italy Tel +39 0341.497570 - Fax 0341.497570 info@wakeupsf.com - www.wakeupsf.com Wakeup Status Factory Wakeup Status Factory Wakeup_Inside
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