Fabric Technology DRY, WARM, and SAFE At work or play!
Base Layer
DRY UNDERWEAR KEEPS THE BODY FROM COOLING DOWN TOO QUICKLY - Wet underwear steals energy and warmth from the body High-energy activities and hard physical work produce heat and perspiration. Wet underwear will steal energy and warmth from the body surface when the activity is decreased and moisture evaporates. Energy is used for the wrong reason - the body gets cold. Dry underwear will keep you warm; energy is saved for hard physical work activities in cold environments. The HH 3-Layer moisture management system leads moisture away from the body so heat balance and a dry and comfortable microclimate is quickly retrieved by combining physiological principles and modern fibre technology in a push/pull concept.
POLYPROPYLENE IS A HYDRO RESISTANT FIBRE - Absorbs no moisture Italian scientists received the Nobel Prize in 1963 based on their invention of the polypropylene fibre. Polypropylene is a hydrophobic or water-resistant fibre, which does not absorb moisture (0.01%). As no moisture is absorbed or permanently adhered to the fibre or yarn, the fabric remains dry next to the skin 2.2 dtex fibre makes the very thin SUPER spun yarn for optimal moisture transportation performance. Spun yarn of thin fibres provide a very soft, elastic and comfortable fabric to wear next to the skin Polypropylene is a non-allergic fibre, therefore it will not irritate the skin. HH PP BodyWear can be washed in cold or warm water, hang or (cool air)tumble dry. PP has low thermal conduction, and is thereby a good insulator.
COTTON, WOOL OR POLYPROPYLEN - You can't argue it! The cotton fibre absorbs moisture. Comfortable on a hot day; dangerous in cold weather. The wool fibre absorbs some moisture and still insulates, until it's saturated. Dries slowly. Polypropylene absorbs no moisture, so it cannot be wet. The surface moisture dries quickly.
DEVELOPED FOR DIFFERENT ACTIVITY LEVELS - At different temperatures SUPER Lightweight ultra-stretch rib knit polypropylene (140g.), works like a second skin, with rapid moisture transportation. For high-energy work in cool temperatures. THERMAL WOOL Double layer plaited knit construction (200g.), Polypropylene (55%) on the inside provides moisture transportation and a non-scratch surface next to the skin. Plaited wool (36%) and nylon (9%) on the outside absorb moisture and provide insulation and durability. For low activity levels when extra warmth is required, or in severe cold.
Thermal Layer
HH THERMAL LAYER TECHNOLOGY - A system based upon the simple laws of thermodynamics Insulation. A resistant lofty layer of air insulates against cold Temperature control. High energy activities produce high pressure and excess body heat with the up air molecules streaming towards low pressure and the colder air on the outside Moisture management. Synthetic fibres absorb little to no moisture; moisture is transported away from the body through free airflow and capillary conduction
PILE OR FLEECE? -It depends on temperature and activity Pile is knitted to simulate animal fur with the fibers vertically oriented. Therefore pile provides a larger volume of air for fabric thickness, effectively 5 mm (0.2 inch), and hence higher insulation to weight ratio. Consequently,pile insulates better than fleece. The pile structure is open so it provides very good ventilation too;consequently it has proven to be a preferred material in high energy activities in the cold (for instance, lumbermen engaged in high physical work at cold temperatures). Fleece is a regular terry-loop knit which is brushed to trap air, but holds less air than in a pile structure with the same weight. Fleece has a denser structure and provides more wind resistance; but permits less ventilation or air permeability. This might be an advantage or an disadvantage depending on the activity and wind chill factor. Both pile and fleece can be used underneath a jacket shell fabric if wind chill protection is needed. Both types of fabrics provide high breath-ability or low water-vapor resistance because these fabrics are generally made of synthetic fibers. Consequently,moisture can be released from the insulation layer so that the insulating capacity is maintained.
A SIMPLE FACT - Air insulates, not the fabric or fiber substrate itself The thicker the layer of air, the higher the insulation. A material with an open structure lets excess heat escape, but provides less insulation when exposed to convection (i.e., wind chill). Wool is an excellent insulator because the shell structure of the fibre traps air. Wool has the ability to absorb a relative high amount of moisture, 36% of its weight, and still insulate. However, when the wool fiber absorbs moisture, i.e. water fills the core of the fiber eliminating air spaces, insulation is significantly reduced. Cotton has a very low insulation capability because the fibre has a smooth surface and readily absorbs moisture. Synthetic fibres have proven to be a better compromise between insulation and moisture transportation, and are preferred in functional clothing, i.e., clothing that provides a mix of performance properties. The Institute of Work Physiology in Oslo, Norway, conducted comparative testing of identical materials in wool and synthetic fibers, and concluded that there are no significant differences between the two fibres when used in a pile construction.
Protection Layer Waterproof
A MENU FOR MORE THAN WATERPROOFNESS - Added functionality for protection and extended lifetime 100% Waterproof guaranteed. Fundamental fabric performance breaking strength, tear resistance, and abrasion resistance. Added protection according to specific user needs flame resistance in accordance with EN 533 and ASTM D 6413; high visibility performance to EN 471 and ANSI/ISEA 107-1999, ASTM F 1891. In addition, special make up garments with electrical arc thermal insulation, antistatic performance, ease-of-cleaning etc.
STRONG AND DURABLE - OR LIGHTWEIGHT EASE? - Heavy Duty Plarex or Impertech Textile substrates for waterproof fabrics are normally woven or knitted. Non-woven base fabrics have low tear strength. Woven cotton or reinforced cotton/polyester fabrics are very stable and durable and are used in heavy duty (HD) workwear. Cotton substrates provides some moisture uptake, reduced condensation, and promotes a feeling of comfort and warmth. Knitted nylon or polyester fabics are flexible, have high tear strength and are used in lightweight (LW) workwear. Coating solutions are normally Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU) that are polymers of petrochemical intermediates. PVC coatings are compact and solid, have good resistance to ignition, many chemicals, fats and oils; PVC is also very waterproof and is used in heavy duty workwear. PU coatings have lower abrasion resistance, but provide a soft drape and flexibility, resist stiffening in cold temperatures, and are used in light wear (LW) garments. When the coating is on the inside of the garment, then water repellency on the textile substrate is provided by adding a fluor carbon finish (e.g. Teflon ).
CHEMICAL COMPATABILITY DATA A guide for chosing the right fabric when exposed to chemical splashes
WATERPROOF FABRIC MANUFACTURE - Superior Multi-layer technology Multi-layer waterproofing secures comfort on the inside and watertight technology on the outside. Eco friendly production methods ensure the non-use of cadmium (dyeing process), halogens (flame retardancy) nor stabilizers such as TBT (tributylten). Additionally,there s no pollution by liquids nor gasses during the manufacturing process. Factories are registered as compliant to the ISO 9001 quality assurance system
100% WATERPROOF SEAMS - Microweld or Seamseal Leakage by capillary conduction through an unsealed seam will make the body "soaked wet through" in heavy rain. To be able to call a garment waterproof rather than water resistant, it must have sealed seams. The seams can be sealed through high frequency micro-welding. The two fabric parts are transformed into one material structural by binding at a molecular level: these seams are unlikely to break and leak. Tape sealing means that a tape is "glued" on top of the sewn seam by machine/hand to achieve a 100% waterproof result. Crossing seams are usually the weak seams in the garment. Bad workmanship will be found out on a rainy day!
REFERENCES -Staying dry and warm at work Air Canada chose Helly Hansen Polystretch for the ground staff at St. John s in NewFoundland eastcoast through to Vancouver BC, westcoast of Canada. Canada s extreme weather conditions requires high quality foul weather clothing, and we are proud to have equipped Air Canada in addition to many other Canadian corporations Alaskan fishermen have used the 16300 Highliner PVC garments since the early 50 s. The HH brand is the benchmark among fishermen on the Pacific North coast. Brand loyalty to HH in Alaska is one of our strongest accolades. Bergen Utilities one of the company s oldest customers are based on the West Coast of Norway. Working in the wettest city in Norway, only the best is good enough for year round use.
Protection Layer Waterproof - Breathable
THE WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE CONCEPT - Waterproof. Breathable. Guaranteed. Helly Tech WorkWear technology makes clothing 100% waterproof. High-energy work produces heat and moisture; Helly Tech technology lets body moisture evaporate we guarantee it works in rain or snow! Helly Tech is Helly Hansen¹s trade mark for our range of waterproof/breathable garments. The fabrics are carefully selected to offer the optimal performance for the intended use of the garment. Consequently, the Helly Tech collection includes a variety of fabrics and performance levels for any outdoor environment. The collection consists of coated and laminated fabrics with microporous and/or hydrophilic technology; applied in a 2-layer or 3-layer system. With our coating expertise we know how to select and test fabrics for their ability to be waterproof, to breath, for abrasion resistance and tear/ tensile strength, so the fabrics deliver durable functionality and high value. Garments are made with high performance and high tenacity fabrics for demanding use, or with basic performance taslan fabrics for normal use. The Helly Tech trademark is the guarantee for quality, performance and value.
WATER PENETRATION RESISTANCE - I.e. Waterproofness Waterproofness is measured as the resistance of water to penetrate a fabric by placing a water column on the coated side of the fabric. The water column is measured in millimeters/inches. To simulate wear and tear the fabric are washed 5 times at 40C/103F before testing. Low quality fabrics lose 50% or more of the rating after wash. ISO 811 or AATCC (Sutertest) is the most commonly used and the most relevant test to measure waterproof performance. ENV 343 standard specifies testing at 800 mm and 1.300 mm before and after wash (ISO 811); which compares to 200 and 300 inches respectively. Helly Hansen applies requirements of 5.000 mm and 3.000 mm after 5 launderings; high performance and basic performance fabrics; respectively which compares to 760 inches and 1270 inches. Our experience is that an acceptable performance level is more than 3.000 mm measured in accordance with ISO 811. The use of different test methods might confuse benchmarking of products; ISO 811 guarantees relevance of testing.
TEST METHODOLOGIES - Reported waterproof performance is not always what it seems Water penetration resistance testing (per ISO 811) becomes more relevant when applied to a "worn" product. Claims of 20.000 mm (5000 inches) by competitors can actually be less than 5.000 mm (1270 inches) with HH/Helox "killer test" (quote by a Japanese fabric supplier).
WATER VAPOUR RESISTANCE - I.e. Breathability Breathability is measured as the resistance of water vapor to penetrate a fabric. Different test methods are used - Canadian Cup, Inverted Cup etc. The modified skin model is the most relevant method used for ENV 343 certification as well. The modified skin model measures water vapor resistance in a unit called Ret (Resistance). The measurement is m2pa/w. The measured value is the energy used to sustain a defined evaporation of water through the fabric. The illustration shows the modified skin model test equipment with water evaporation through the fabric that is under constant spray of water. The less energy used - low test value/figure - the better is the "breathability". ENV 343 standard specifies test levels lower than 20, between 20 and 150, and over 150 Ret. Our experience is that acceptable performance levels are only those lower than 20 Ret. A more relevant differentiation of performance levels and buying criteria are 20, 13 and 6 Ret.
DURABLE WATER REPELLENCY - DWR - Helly Guard DWR as important as the W/B film A wetted fabric surface makes the "breathable" fabric non-breathable because the water blocks evaporation through the fabric and increase condensation on the inside of the fabric. A wetted fabric makes a "water proof" fabric non waterproof because water will gradually penetrate the film. Helly Guard DWR safeguards waterproofness as rain drops do not adhere to the textile surface and from the surface working its¹ way into the fabric by capillary conduction. DWR is vital for breathability when it¹s raining. The raindrops will block moisture transportation and prevent evaporation. The clothing shall breathe also when raining; waterproof and breathable at the same time. The water repellency of a fabric is tested after 5 launderings at 40C on a scale from 0-5. The score should be 4 to be accepted as a Helly Tech fabric, and then the waterproof/breathable properties are guaranteed. Demanding corporate customers require performance after 50X washings to guarantee durable performance. And we deliver it.
WATERPROOF SEAMS - Engineering 100% waterproofness The thread in the seam works like a bridge for water to penetrate the inside of the garment; therefore all seams must be sealed. Leakage by capillary conduction through an unsealed seam will make the body "soaked wet through" in heavy rain. To be able to call a garment waterproof rather than water resistant, it must have sealed seams.. Tape sealing means that a tape is "glued" on top of the sewn seam by machine/hand to achieve a 100% waterproof result. Crossing seams are usually the weak seams in the garment. The tape must adhere with the fabric so it remains in place, and it must cover the seam with enough overlap to avoid leakage after wear and tear. Correct temperature and time must be provided to secure adhesion over the lifetime of the garment. ISO 9001 quality control systems are maintained for 100% waterproof performance garment.
LAMINATED OR COATED - Both technologies have advantages and disadvantages. The laminated product category includes various types of processes whereby a film or membrane is bonded on a textile substrate. The film is made by different processes including among others extrusion (Sympatex), sintering (Gore-Tex) or coagulation (Porelle). The film is either based on PTFE (Gore- Tex) or PE copolymers. The coated product category includes also a number of processes whereby a PU solution is coated on a fabric substrate. At the direct coating process several layers of coating are directly applied on a textile substrate which must be a woven textile. At the transfer coating process the coating paste is applied on a paper release to get a membrane, which is subsequently transferred on a textile substrate. Some high performance fabrics have a combination of the two to compensate for the disadvantages.
MICROPOROUS OR HYDROPHILIC - No significant difference in performance The microporous system makes use of the different size of water molecules and moisture molecules. Water molecules cannot penetrate the millions of micropores in the film, whereas moisture molecules are pushed through by body heat pressure. The hydrophilic system is based on a chemical reaction between the moisture molecules and the compact film (no micropores). Transmission of vapor is provided by a 3 step molecular reaction - absorption, diffusion and disorption. In other words, molecules of perspiration is absorbed and transported and evaporates to the outside. Water molecules are not reacting the same way, and stays on the outside. Coatings or membranes can be microporous (hydrophobe) or hydrophilic. Some times microporous systems and hydrophilic systems are combined with two layers to compensate for disadvantages.
WHICH ONE IS BEST - Actually none It is impossible to state that the one system is better than the other. One breath better in dry conditions, the other in wet conditions. Fabric suppliers make statements and claim superiority that does not match reality. Testing with different methods make comparisons irrelevant. Various weather conditions and various uses make comparisons irrelevant. Combinations of systems are naturally the optimal solution. All branded quality products are working very well. Textile performance is often the more relevant buying criteria Our 25 years of experience with W/B garments has taught us how to select fabrics for various use taking functionality and durability into consideration. Our experience with the various systems is given below.
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