Manufacturing Specification for TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Defence Clothing (DC) PROPERTY OF MINISTRY OF DEFENCE Page 1 of 46
THE PRODUCT Item Description NATO Stock No. Pattern No. TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Grenadier Guards 8405-99-975-5898 15296 Coldstream Guards 8405-99-975-5899 15298 Scots Guards 8405-99-975-5900 15300 Irish Guards 8405-99-975-5901 15302 Welsh Guards 8405-99-975-5902 15304 Technical Support Defence Clothing (DC) Button configuration, cuff and back slash embellishments to Regimental requirements (refer to section 7). Grenadier Guards illustrated here Any colour shown in this document is for representation and must not be used for colour matching. IPR STATEMENT This specification contains information which is proprietary to the Secretary of State for Defence and shall remain the property of the Secretary of State. It is issued in strict confidence and must not be seen by any unauthorised person. The specification is supplied solely for the purpose of Information/Tender/Contract and shall not be copied or reproduced or used for any other purpose whatsoever without the express prior written permission of the Secretary of State as represented by the Intellectual property rights group. Technical documents in this specification refer to the edition current at the date of tender or contract unless otherwise stated. CROWN COPYRIGHT RESERVED Page 2 of 46
1. ISSUE RECORD Issue No Comments Issue Date 2 Reformatted. DCIPT replaced by DC. Pattern clause added section 3 Quality clause added section 5. Dry Clean Instructions shortened. DEF STAN 83-65 replaced by 8190A to UK/SC/6577. 1 New specification derived from Technical Description TD/15/33 19 July 2006 Page 3 of 46
2. BILL OF MATERIALS Refer to Technical Data Sheets at section 8. 3. INTERLINING DIAGRAM, CUTTING AND PATTERNS Page 4 of 46
3. INTERLINING DIAGRAM, CUTTING AND PATTERNS Continued Performance of laminates in fusible interlinings. The main contractor is to ensure that the interlining is laminated strictly in accordance with the interlining manufacture s recommendations and are to be specific to the specified outer cloth for the related garment. The fusible interlining recommended must allow the garment to be washed, ironed, dry cleaned and tumble dried as recommended on the care label, throughout the garment life without any visible signs of delamination, puckering, loss of appearance and handle or excessive shrinkage. Fusing is to be continuous so that the laminate is free from blisters and there is no strike through of adhesive onto the face of the laminate or strike back through the interlining. The recommendations of the interlining manufacturer regarding fusing must be strictly observed and where these call for careful control of temperature, time and mechanical pressure, suitable controlled presses must be used. PATTERNS. Master Patterns. The DC holds a Master Pattern for this product. Potential contractors may view the pattern on site by arrangement with the DC Commercial Department. Standard Patterns. A Standard Pattern may be obtained from the DC Technical Information Office and may be used to provide the criteria for all materials, components and manufacturing features not fully defined in this specification. Electronic Patterns. Electronic patterns in Gerber format, to guide for manufacture may be obtained from the DC Technical Information Office. Page 5 of 46
4. GARMENT SIZING SIZE CHART TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS All measurements in centimetres. Garment fastened and laid flat Page 6 of 46
4 GARMENT SIZING Continued Size Height/ Chest/ Waist Measurements of garment for guidance only Around Tunic Back Forepart Sleeve From eye of from Skirt Length from Length Width at buttonholes to centre of button collar seam to waist Length from waist seam to hem collar seam to Bottom from centre back to Chest Waist seam Front Back buttonhole cuff Elbow ½ way between underarm and Around cuff Half back 12.5cm down cuff Ax2 Bx2 C D E F G Hx2 Jx2 K L 175/96/84 104 84 43.5 32 31 39 81 39.25 30.5 19.5 44 Length of collar at seam Page 7 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION Seam type 1.01.01 unless otherwise stated All other seams and topstitching 301 SEAMS AND STITCHING to BS 3870 Seams to be pressed open with the exception of the armhole seam 8-10 stitches per 2cm for all operations Buttonholes to be cut before worked type, 22 stitches per 2cm to be bar tack finished Waist buttonhole to be cut through waist seam and facing, securely tacked at each end and the raw edge of the cut securely sewn Button securely sewn with 16 stitches through each hole Slash buttons to be plugged and securely sewn Felling not to have less than 7 stitches per 2cm QUALITY The garment is to be made to a high quality standard and to this end sound tailoring production techniques are to be applied in their construction. Attention must be paid to features which have a bearing on a neat, smooth superior finish Uniformity in appearance is essential, therefore there is to be no noticeable variation between production garments and the Standard Pattern It is essential that: Body and sleeve linings are not tight Garment parts are correctly aligned in assembly and that the run of seams are regular and neatly under and top pressed Garment front edges are thinly constructed, well pressed, regular in shape and free from distortion, and that collar does not gape when fastened There is no variation in paired features i.e. left and right collar end, etc Sleevehead fullness is correctly distributed, sleeves correctly pitched and the sleevehead run is regular and well pressed Shoulder seam distortion is avoided and wadding is securely and correctly inserted All buttons are to be sewn on with the insignia correctly aligned Page 8 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued PART DETAIL BS 3870 DESIGN Single breasted to button as Regimental requirements (refer to section 7) Waist seam Chest dart Stand collar Patrol back Back slashes Back skirt vent Two piece set in sleeve Cuff slashes Shoulder straps Fully lined Waist hook (left side) Gold embellishments Piping at fronts, vent, cuffs, collar and slashes The tunic shall be cut one way of the material, i.e. with the pile of cloth running downwards when stroked with the hand Page 9 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued INLAYS Side seams 2cm wide Forepart shoulder seam 1.5cm wide Gorge seam 1cm wide finishing at the collar step position Back neck 1cm wide Page 10 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued INLAY continued Back edge of skirts 2cm Back slashes 2cm Underside sleeve hindarm seam 2cm wide at armhole to seam width at elbow Corresponding inlays allowed on linings Page 11 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued FOREPART AND SKIRTS A chest dart in each forepart at the waist seam 15cm long angled towards the chest Positioned 16cm from the centre front Forepart interlined with cotton and hair canvas (see interlining diagram) Cut full width at the shoulder to the front pitch Tapering to the front dart at the waist and 7cm below the waist seam Shoulders have an additional reinforcement of cotton and hair canvas (see interlining diagram) Reinforcement sewn in with the sleevehead stitching Secured with 3 rows of padding Buttonhole and buttons stayed with linen (see interlining diagram) Front edges drawn in and shrunk to form straight edge Base of armhole and waist seam to be stayed with fusible tape (see interlining diagram) Page 12 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued FOREPART AND SKIRTS continued A waist dart in the top of each skirt at the waist seam Positioned 14cm from the back edge of the skirt and 4.5cm long Foreparts edged with white piping 0.6 cm wide Left forepart as worn Collar step 1.6cm from the front edge Page 13 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued FOREPART AND SKIRTS continued Right forepart as worn Button stand extension 2.5cm wide on the forepart and skirt Increasing to 3.5cm at the waist and bottom edge Lining cut to correspond with the forepart, front and back skirt Left side as worn Facing of main fabric from the collar to the bottom edge of skirt 6cm wide Two hooks attached to an oval stay of main fabric Stay of main fabric 10.5cm long and 8cm wide sewn to the lining Front of stay positioned 5cm from the front edge Page 14 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued FRONT FACING AND BODY LINING continued Hooks in register with the eyes when tunic fastened Right side as worn Forepart and skirt lining cut the full width to finish at the front edge Two eyes sewn between the lining and piping One positioned directly above the waist seam One positioned 3.5cm above the waist seam A waist pleat 2cm deep in the top of the skirt Positioned in line with the side seam Lining to have a 2cm pleat in the centre back lining from the neck to the waist Lining felled to the tunic at the waist and side body seams Lining felled to the skirt at the hem Page 15 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued BACK AND BACK SKIRTS Back armhole and back neck stayed with fusible tape (see interlining diagram) Waist seam stayed with fusible tape (see interlining diagram) Front skirts extend to the centre panel seam at the back The front/back skirt seams lapped to form a pleat towards the centre vent Width of pleat 0.6cm at waist, finishing 3cm from the bottom edge Patrol back finishing at the waist line Two piece lower back skirt 12cm wide at waist seam Each panel is 6cm wide at the waist seam The edges of the vents are piped 0.6cm wide with white fabric Left skirt width at bottom 11.5cm wide Page 16 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued BACK AND BACK SKIRTS continued Right skirt width at bottom 14.5cm wide including underlap Open at the centre forming a 3cm underlap from the waist to the bottom edge Effective vent length 15cm long Skirt to have a fusible interlining (see interlining diagram) Laid on slashes with scalloped edges piped in white fabric 0.6cm wide Slashes to have a fusible interlining (see fusing diagram) Sewn in the back skirt seams Top of slash sewn into the waist seam Bottom of slash to finish 1cm up from bottom edge at the skirt seam And 0.5cm form the bottom edge at the point Width of slash at top 1.5cm Width of slash at top scallop 6.75cm Width of slash at second scallop 8.75cm Width of slash at bottom scallop 11cm Where back skirt length is longer than 26.75cm The slashes are lengthened from the top point of slash to the waist seam Remaining points not to be altered Where the back skirt is shorter than 26.75cm The distance between the slash points to be reduced proportionately Page 17 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued BACK AND BACK SKIRTS continued Slashes embroidered with: One row of gold embroidery on all edges adjacent to the inner edges of piping Block of gold terminating at the top scallop and 0.4cm from the side and bottom of the rows of gold embroidery Adjacent to the edge of the pleat Regimental buttons plugged through each slash (refer to section 7 for details) Large regimental button sewn through each side of back skirt Positioned 1cm down from waist seam Buttons to be sewn with insignia correctly aligned Page 18 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued WAIST HOOK Inserted in waist seam on the left side and stayed Positioned 2.5cm from side seam on forepart Base of hook 1cm below waist seam COLLAR Stand collar 6cm deep cut in dark navy fabric and lined Interlined with buckram (see interlining diagram) Collar edged with white piping 0.6 cm wide Embroidered with a block of gold, 12cm long, at the front of the collar Adjacent to the piping and collar seam Embroidered with a row of gold adjacent to the piping and collar seam, terminating at the rear edge of the gold block Regimental embroidered badges on the collar (refer to section 7 for details) Two hooks secured to the right end with tape Centrally spaced 4cm apart Two eyes secured to the left end with tape In register with the hooks The collar is not to gape when fastened A throat tab sewn to the lining on the left collar end Positioned 5cm from front edge of the collar 8cm long and 5.5cm wide Page 19 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued SLEEVES It is essential the sleeves are correctly pitched for the erect stature required for uniform clothing Solid line showing correctly pitched Dotted line incorrectly pitched Sleevehead fullness is to be correctly distributed and fixed using a programmed CAM controlled machine Shoulder pads secured to shoulder/chest reinforcement A sleevehead wadding, is to extend from 2.5cm above the front pitch to 6cm below the back pitch Sleevehead lining is to be machine sewn and securely tacked to the armhole at six points At the forearm and hindarm seam 4cm above and below forearm and hindarm seam Alternatively the lining can be attached at the underarm seam Page 20 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued SLEEVE continued Laid on cuffs, cut in dark navy fabric, 9cm deep sewn in with the forearm seam Cuff upturn 3cm to be securely sewn to the sleeve Top of cuff piped with white fabric 0.6cm wide Embroidered with two rows of gold on the cuff spaced 0.4cm apart First row sewn adjacent to the piping Laid on cuff slashes cut in dark navy fabric Slashes to have a fusible interlining (see interlining diagram) Positioned on the top sleeve sewn in with the forearm seam Edges piped with white fabric 0.6cm wide Centre point of slash positioned centrally on the cuff piping Cuff slashes 17cm long including piping at the forearm seam 19.5cm long including piping at the points 9.5cm wide at the top, centre and bottom points Page 21 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued SLEEVE continued Each slash embroidered with one row of gold on all edges adjacent to the inner edges of piping Embroidered with a block of gold 0.4cm from the row of the gold embroidery and adjacent to the forearm seam Regimental buttons plugged through each slash (refer to section 7 for details) Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned SHOULDER STRAPS Two ply main fabric with pointed end Top ply cut in dark navy fabric lined with scarlet fabric Edges of scarlet fabric to be raw edge Interlined with buckram (see interlining diagram) Strap width 6.5cm Embroidered with two rows of gold spaced 0.2cm apart First row adjacent to the sides and pointed end 2cm long buttonhole positioned centrally The eye 3cm from the pointed end Strap sewn in the sleeve seam Positioned centrally over the shoulder seam Page 22 of 46
5. CONSTRUCTION continued SHOULDER STRAPS Continued End of strap to finish 1cm from collar seam Small regimental button sewn on shoulder In register with the buttonhole Buttons to be sewn with insignia correctly aligned Rank badges as appropriate PADDING UP-TURN Front and side back panel to be quilted Quilting 1.5cm horizontal and vertical lines Quilting to finish 12cm above the waist Wadding to be thinned between the buttonholes and under the buttons 5cm up-turn Page 23 of 46
6. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS Labels Colour Position Identification and garment care labels White Care and size labels may be combined to produce one label Identification Label Information and format is to be as follows Tunic: attached to the right facing approximately 10cm above the waist seam For Outsize Item name, NATO Stock Number, name, number and measurements of wearer, contract number. Manufacturer Information Under no circumstances should the contractor s name, logo or trademark appear on any form of labelling or garment bags. Page 24 of 46
6. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS continued SPECIMEN LABELS Identification Labels Outsize TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Grenadier Guards 8405-99-975-5898 Name: No: Height: Chest: Waist: Contract No: Care Label Care instructions Please treat this garment gently. For small marks sponge with cold water and brush. Only dry clean when necessary. Turn garment inside out and dry. Clean in a laundry bag. do not wash do not bleach do not tumble dry do not iron Dry Clean Only Page 25 of 46
6. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS continued SPECIMEN LABELS Identification Labels Outsize TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Coldstream Guards 8405-99-975-5899 Name: No: Height: Chest: Waist: Contract No: Care Label Care instructions Please treat this garment gently. For small marks sponge with cold water and brush. Only dry clean when necessary. Turn garment inside out and dry. Clean in a laundry bag. do not wash do not bleach do not tumble dry do not iron Dry Clean Only Page 26 of 46
6. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS continued SPECIMEN LABELS Identification Labels Outsize TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Scots Guards 8405-99-975-5900 Name: No: Height: Chest: Waist: Contract No: Care Label Care instructions Please treat this garment gently. For small marks sponge with cold water and brush. Only dry clean when necessary. Turn garment inside out and dry. Clean in a laundry bag. do not wash do not bleach do not tumble dry do not iron Dry Clean Only Page 27 of 46
6. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS continued SPECIMEN LABELS Identification Labels Outsize TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Irish Guards 8405-99-975-5901 Name: No: Height: Chest: Waist: Contract No: Care Label Care instructions Please treat this garment gently. For small marks sponge with cold water and brush. Only dry clean when necessary. Turn garment inside out and dry. Clean in a laundry bag. do not wash do not bleach do not tumble dry do not iron Dry Clean Only Page 28 of 46
6. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS continued SPECIMEN LABELS Identification Labels Outsize TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS Welsh Guards 8405-99-975-5902 Name: No: Height: Chest: Waist: Contract No: Care Label Care instructions Please treat this garment gently. For small marks sponge with cold water and brush. Only dry clean when necessary. Turn garment inside out and dry. Clean in a laundry bag. do not wash do not bleach do not tumble dry do not iron Dry Clean Only Page 29 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS FOREPART GRENADIER GUARDS Left front as worn Eight buttonholes 3.2cm long The eye of the buttonhole and the collar step 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Top buttonhole positioned 3cm below the collar seam Bottom buttonhole positioned 7cm up from waist seam Remaining buttonholes equally spaced between top and bottom buttonhole A 2.5cm long buttonhole worked in the waist seam Positioned 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Right front as worn Eight regimental buttons sewn in register with the buttonholes Positioned 4cm from the front edge of piping at the top button Graduating to 5cm at the bottom button A button sewn at the waist in register with the waist buttonhole Positioned 5cm from the front edge A circle of main fabric 1.5cm diameter sewn on with all the buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 30 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued BACK SLASHES GRENADIER GUARDS continued Four regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top and bottom button 2.5cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Remaining buttons equally spaced between top and bottom buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned COLLAR Embroidered with a silver Grenade at each collar end Positioned centrally on the block of gold embroidery SLEEVES Four regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned 3.5cm from the forearm seam Top and bottom button 2cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Remaining buttons equally spaced between top and bottom buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 31 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued FOREPART COLDSTREAM GUARDS Left front as worn Nine buttonholes 3.2cm long spaced in four groups of two and one positioned 7cm up from waist seam The eye of the buttonhole and the collar step 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Top buttonhole positioned 3cm below the collar seam Remaining buttonholes equally spaced in groups of two Distance between the buttonholes of each pair to be no more than 3cm Space between each pair and eighth and ninth buttonhole to be equal A 2.5cm long buttonhole worked in the waist seam Positioned 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Right front as worn Nine regimental buttons sewn in register with the buttonholes Positioned 4cm from the front edge of piping at the top button Graduating to 5cm at the bottom button A button sewn at the waist in register with the waist buttonhole Positioned 5cm from the front edge A circle of main fabric 1.5cm diameter sewn on with all the buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 32 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued BACK SLASHES COLDSTREAM GUARDS continued Four regimental buttons in two groups of two plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top group, one button 2cm from the top of the block, second button spaced 6cm from the top of the block Bottom group, one button 2cm from the bottom of the block, second button spaced 6cm from the bottom of the block Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned COLLAR Embroidered with a silver Garter Star at each collar end Positioned centrally on the block of gold embroidery SLEEVES Four regimental buttons in two groups of two plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned 3.5cm from the forearm seam Top group, one button 1.75cm from the top of the block, second button spaced 4.25cm from the top of the block Bottom group, one button 1.75cm from the bottom of the block, second button spaced 4.25cm from the bottom of the block Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 33 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued FOREPART SCOTS GUARDS Left front as worn Eight buttonholes 3.2cm long spaced in two groups of three and one of two Bottom buttonhole positioned 7cm up from waist seam The eye of the buttonhole and the collar step 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Top buttonhole positioned 3cm below the collar seam Remaining buttonholes equally spaced in groups of three Spacing between the groups no less than 6.5cm A 2.5cm long buttonhole worked in the waist seam Positioned 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Right front as worn Eight regimental buttons sewn in register with the buttonholes Positioned 4cm from the front edge of piping at the top button Graduating to 5cm at the bottom button A button sewn at the waist in register with the waist buttonhole Positioned 5cm from the front edge A circle of main fabric 1.5cm diameter sewn on with all the buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 34 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued BACK SLASHES SCOTS GUARDS continued Three regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top and bottom button 4cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Middle button level with centre scallop point Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned COLLAR Embroidered with a silver Thistle at each collar end Positioned centrally on the block of gold embroidery SLEEVES Three regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top and bottom button 3cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Middle button level with centre scallop point Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 35 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued FOREPART IRISH GUARDS Left front as worn Eight buttonholes 3.2cm long spaced in two groups of four Bottom buttonhole positioned 7cm up from waist seam The eye of the buttonhole and the collar step 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Top buttonhole positioned 3cm below the collar seam Remaining buttonholes equally spaced in two groups of four Spacing between the groups no less than 6.5cm A 2.5cm long buttonhole worked in the waist seam Positioned 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Right front as worn Eight regimental buttons sewn in register with the buttonholes Positioned 4cm from the front edge of piping at the top button Graduating to 5cm at the bottom button A button sewn at the waist in register with the waist buttonhole Positioned 5cm from the front edge A circle of main fabric 1.5cm diameter sewn on with all the buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 36 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued BACK SLASHES IRISH GUARDS continued Four regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top and bottom button 4cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Remaining buttons equally spaced between top and bottom buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned COLLAR Embroidered with a silver Shamrock at each collar end Positioned centrally on the block of gold embroidery SLEEVES Four regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned 3.5cm from the forearm seam Top and bottom button 3cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Remaining buttons equally spaced between top and bottom buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 37 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued FOREPART WELSH GUARDS Left front as worn Ten buttonholes 3.2cm long spaced in two groups of five Bottom buttonhole positioned 7cm up from waist seam The eye of the buttonhole and the collar step 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Top buttonhole positioned 3cm below the collar seam Remaining buttonholes equally in two groups of five Spacing between the groups no less than 6.5cm A 2.5cm long buttonhole worked in the waist seam Positioned 1.6cm from the front edge of piping Right front as worn Ten regimental buttons sewn in register with the buttonholes Positioned 4cm from the front edge of piping at the top button Graduating to 5cm at the bottom button A button sewn at the waist in register with the waist buttonhole Positioned 5cm from the front edge A circle of main fabric 1.5cm diameter sewn on with all the buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 38 of 46
7. BUTTON POSITIONS & EMBELLISHMENTS continued BACK SLASHES WELSH GUARDS continued Five regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top and bottom button 2cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Middle button level with centre scallop point Remaining buttons equally spaced Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned COLLAR Embroidered with a silver Leek at each collar end Positioned centrally on the block of gold embroidery SLEEVES Five regimental buttons plugged through each block of gold embroidery Positioned centrally on each block Top and bottom button 1.75cm from the top and bottom of the block respectively Remaining buttons equally spaced between top and bottom buttons Buttons to be attached with insignia correctly aligned Page 39 of 46
8. TECHNICAL DATA SHEETS Tunic, Officers, Foot Guards Specification No DC/MS/6341 Item Description Pattern No. 15296 NATO Stock No. 8405-99-975-5898 Item Description Pattern No. 15298 NATO Stock No. 8405-99-975-5899 Item Description Pattern No. 15300 NATO Stock No. 8405-99-975-5900 Item Description Pattern No. 15302 NATO Stock No. 8405-99-975-5901 TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS, GRENADIER GUARDS TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS, COLDSTREAM GUARDS TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS, SCOTS GUARDS TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS, IRISH GUARDS Page 40 of 46
Item Description Pattern No. 15304 NATO Stock No. 8405-99-975-5902 TUNIC, OFFICERS, FOOT GUARDS, WELSH GUARDS Scope: A Tunic, made from cloth scarlet with blue collar, cuffs and shoulder straps for wear by Officers, Footguards of the Grenadier Guards, Coldstream Guards, Scots Guards, Irish Guards, and Welsh Guards The Tunic is provided as Outsize only Related Specifications BS EN ISO 3758 BS EN 12590 BS 3870 Part 1 & 2 BS 4973 Part 3 Part 4 BS 5742 BS 7141 Part 7 UK/SC/6577 UK/SC/3933 UK/SC/5126 UK/SC/5237 UK/SC/5516 UK/SC/6209 Title Textiles. Care labelling code using symbols Textiles. Industrial sewing threads made wholly or partly from synthetic fibres Stitches and seams Interlinings. Woven fusible interlinings Woven sewn-in interlinings Specification for textile labels requiring to be washed and/or dry cleaned Narrow Fabrics. Specification for woven cotton tapes and webbings Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton, No.2 Braid, cord, lace, badges and embroidery, metal, gold and silver Insignia, buttons, pins, plates and titles. Manufactured from gilding metal, brass and nickel silver Cloth, satin, viscose lining SF Cloths, wool, uniform dress Cloth, Uniform, Wool with Nylon, Melton Page 41 of 46
BILL OF MATERIALS Reference Description NATO Stock No. Pattern No. MAT0014Z to UK/SC/6209 Pattern No. 8849J to UK/SC/5516 Pattern No. 8849F to UK/SC/5516 Pattern No. 8808D to UK/SC/5237 Pattern No. 8190A to UK/SC/6577 Pattern No. 8808A to UK/SC/5237 MAIN MATERIAL Cloth, Uniform, Wool with Nylon, Melton, Tunic Scarlet COLLAR, THROAT TAB, SHOULDER STRAPS, CUFFS AND CUFF STRAPS Cloth, light Melton, wool, for uniform dress, dark navy PIPING FOR FRONTS, COLLAR, CUFFS, CUFF SLASHES, VENT AND BACK SLASHES Cloth, light Melton, wool, for uniform dress, white LINING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES Cloth, satin, viscose lining, cream LINING FRONT AND BACK SKIRT Cloth, twill, polyester and cotton, white, FS LINING FOR COLLAR Cloth, satin, viscose lining, black 8305-99-371-7674 8305-99-869-4380 8305-99-869-4377 GRENADIER GUARDS Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Buttons Gilding metal 25mm (40 ligne) 22mm (35 ligne) 16mm (26 ligne) Button, insignia, Grenadier Guards UK/SC/5126 FRONT AND BACK SKIRT 8455-99-130-3580 CUFF SLASHES 8455-99-130-3629 SHOULDER STRAP 8455-99-130-3582 Page 42 of 46
COLDSTREAM GUARDS Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Buttons Gilding metal Button, insignia, Coldstream Guards 25mm (40 ligne) 22mm (35 ligne) 16mm (26 ligne) UK/SC/5126 FRONT AND BACK SKIRT 8455-99-130-3589 CUFF SLASHES 8455-99-130-3630 SHOULDER STRAP 8455-99-130-3591 SCOTS GUARDS Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Buttons Gilding metal Button, insignia, Scots Guards UK/SC/5126 25mm (40 ligne) 22mm (35 ligne) FRONT AND BACK SKIRT 8455-99-130-3595 CUFF SLASHES 8455-99-130-3596 16mm (26 ligne) SHOULDER STRAP 8455-99-130-3598 Page 43 of 46
IRISH GUARDS Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Buttons Gilding metal Button, insignia, Irish Guards UK/SC/5126 25mm (40 ligne) 22mm (35 ligne) 19mm (30 ligne) FRONT AND BACK SKIRT 8455-99-130-3606 CUFF SLASHES 8455-99-130-3631 SHOULDER STRAP 8455-99-130-3607 WELSH GUARDS Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Buttons Gilding metal Button, insignia, Welsh Guards UK/SC/5126 25mm (40 ligne) 22mm (35 ligne) 15mm (25 ligne) FRONT AND BACK SKIRT 8455-99-130-3614 CUFF SLASHES 8455-99-130-3615 SHOULDER STRAP 8455-99-130-3617 Page 44 of 46
BILL OF MATERIALS continued Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Thread Thread Interlining Shade to match main material Polyamide, nylon 6.6 continuous filament 60 s FOR SEWING BUTTONHOLES Shade to match main material BS EN 12590 Polyester/cotton corespun BS EN 12590 12 s BUTTONHOLES Gimp 50 s BUTTONS AND HOOKS AND EYES 75 s ALL OTHER SEWING FOREPART AND CHEST REINFORCEMENT Pattern No. 8343A Ref No.WS5 to BS 4973 Part 4 Cloth, interlining, cotton and hair 8305-99-942-7003 Interlining COLLAR AND SHOULDER STRAPS Pattern No. 8320A Ref No.WS4 (L6) to BS 4973 Part 4 Cloth, buckram, flax and jute, No.2 8305-99-942-8282 Or an alternative approved by the DC Interlining Charcoal COLLAR STAND, BACK SKIRT AND SLASHES, LAID ON CUFF AND SLASHES Stay Black 20mm Interlining fusible, woven BACK NECK, ARMHOLE AND WAIST SEAM Tape, woven, fusible Stay Black WAIST HOOK, BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLES AND VENTS Cloth, plain weave, linen Stay Medium quality 6mm COLLAR HOOKS AND EYES AND PLUGGED BUTTONS BS 4973 Part 3 Pattern No. 8443A Ref No. WS1 of BS 4973 Part 4. 8305-99-942-7523 BS 7141 Part 7 Ref No. CT2 Page 45 of 46
BILL OF MATERIALS continued Components Size/Colour Reference/Description Notes/ NATO Stock No. Pads Wadding Button Brass, 22mm (35ligne) SHOULDER Bonded fibre fabric layers, (nylon) triacetate wadding filling QUILTING FOR FOREPART, BACK LINING AND SLEEVEHEAD Bonded-fibre fabric base, polyester wadding FRONT WAIST Button, plain, flat Hook Brass WAIST Hook, waist, belt Hooks and eyes Brass Black enamelled COLLAR AND INSIDE WAIST Hooks and eyes Embellishments Gold EMBELLISHMENTS FOR COLLAR, BACK SKIRT SLASHES, SHOULDER STRAPS, SLEEVE CUFF AND SLASHES Metal, embroidered Identification/care instruction labels Or an alternative approved by the DC Or an alternative approved by the DC To the requirements of UK/SC/3933 White Refer to section 6 for detail BS 5742 Paragraph 3 BS EN ISO 3758 Page 46 of 46