Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services MULTIPLE CHOICE 1. give you the ability to permanently change the hair s natural wave and curl pattern, thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible. a. Chemical hair softening b. Chemical texture services c. Natural hair services d. Alternative texture services ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 2. Without a thorough understanding of, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves. a. chemistry b. immunology c. color theory d. branding ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 3. What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage? a. Hair shaft b. Cuticle c. Cortex d. Medulla ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 4. Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair? a. Hair shaft b. Cuticle c. Cortex d. Medulla ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 5. Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair? a. Hair shaft b. Cuticle c. Cortex d. Medulla ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 6. The term ph is an abbreviation used for potential, and the symbol ph represents the quantity of ions in solution. a. hydrogen; hydrogen b. hydrogen; oxygen c. oxygen; oxygen d. oxygen; nitrogen
ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 7. The measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains. a. oxygen content b. ph scale c. salinity d. radioactivity level ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 8. The range of numbers used in the ph scale is. a. 0 to 5 b. 0 to 7 c. 0 to 10 d. 0 to 14 ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 9. Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the ph of the hair to an alkaline state in order to. a. expand and harden the shaft b. harden and close the shaft c. swell and set the shaft d. soften and swell the shaft ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 10. In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is. a. slightly alkaline b. mildly acidic c. strongly acidic d. highly alkaline ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 11. What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react? a. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and square bonds b. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and hydrogen bonds c. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and oxygen d. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 599-600 12. Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur? a. Amino acids b. Peptide bonds c. Polypeptide chains d. Keratin proteins ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 13. Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain? a. Amino acids
b. Peptide bonds c. Polypeptide chains d. Keratin proteins ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 14. What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end-to-end like beads? a. Amino acids b. Peptide bonds c. Polypeptide chains d. Keratin proteins ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 15. The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are. a. disulfide, trisulfide, and hydrogen b. disulfide, salt, and hydrogen c. disulfide, salt, and oxygen d. disulfide, chlorine, and hydrogen ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 16. What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur-type chains are joined together? a. Disulfide bonds b. Peptide bonds c. Keratin bonds d. Amino acids ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 17. Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in ph? a. Disulfide bonds b. Salt bonds c. Hydrogen bonds d. Keratin proteins ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 601 18. Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is. a. stretched b. dried c. softened d. styled ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 601 19. is a two-step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer. a. Cascade curling b. Chemical texture service c. Permanent waving d. Temporary waving
ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 601-602 20. What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process? a. The size of the rod b. The length of the hair c. The texture of the hair d. The color of the hair ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 21. In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the. a. long rods b. hair length c. sectioning d. wrapping method ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 22. Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called. a. rearranging b. normalization c. reduction d. alkaline ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 23. In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of. a. hydrogen b. oxygen c. sodium d. carbon ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 24. What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving? a. Ammonia water b. Hydrogen peroxide c. Thioglycolic acids d. Hydrogen acids ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 603 25. The of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or thio. a. durability b. shelf-life c. strength d. concentration ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 603 26. The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is. a. ammonium thioglycolate
b. hydrogen thioglycolate c. alkaline acids d. glyceryl monothioglycolate ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 603 27. What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution? a. Ammonium thioglycolate b. Degree of alkalinity c. Amount used d. Length of the hair ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 603 28. Alkaline waves, also known as, were developed in 1941. a. weak waves b. strong waves c. cold waves d. hot waves ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 29. Most alkaline permanent waves have a ph between. a. 4.5 and 5.5 b. 6.0 and 7.0 c. 9.0 and 9.6 d. 10.0 and 11.0 ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 30. What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions? a. Glyceryl monothioglycolate b. Ammonium thioglycolic c. Sodium hydroxide d. Sodium hydrochloride ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 31. All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and. a. conditioner b. prewrap c. stabilizer d. activator ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 32. Most acid waves used in salons have a ph value between. a. 5.5 and 6.5 b. 7.8 and 8.2 c. 9.0 and 10.0 d. 10.1 and 10.5 ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 33. Modern acid waves are actually waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral ph.
a. weaker b. stronger c. acid-balanced d. alkaline-balanced ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 34. Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up. a. processing b. conditioning c. neutralizing d. formulation ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 35. Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are waves. a. stabilized b. endothermic c. exothermic d. acid ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 36. waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that there is very little odor associated with their use. a. Ammonia-free b. Endothermic c. Exothermic d. Acid-balanced ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 37. It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia-free does not necessarily mean. a. acid-free b. heat-free c. odor-free d. damage-free ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 38. What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent? a. Endothermic b. Exothermic c. Ammonia-free d. Thio-free ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 39. waves are permanent solutions based on sulfites, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves. a. Endothermic b. Exothermic c. Ammonia-free d. Low-pH
ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 40. In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first. a. 5 10 minutes b. 10 15 minutes c. 15 20 minutes d. hour ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 606 41. Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered. a. underprocessed b. overprocessed c. underneutralized d. tinted ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 607 42. Overprocessed hair that is further processed will become and cause further damage, including breakage. a. shorter b. straighter c. curlier d. tinted ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 607 43. The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called. a. sectioning b. rinsing c. thio neutralization d. normalization ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 608 44. What is the most common neutralizer? a. Sodium chloride b. Chlorine c. Hydrogen peroxide d. Oxygen ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 608 45. What is the most common type of perm rod? a. Straight rods b. Curved rods c. Soft bender rods d. Concave rods ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 609 46. What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area? a. Convex rods
b. Straight rods c. Conventional rods d. Spiral rods ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 610 47. What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod? a. Straight rods b. Curved rods c. Soft bender rods d. Concave rods ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 610 48., also known as circle rods, are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. a. Loop rods b. Curved rods c. Soft bender rods d. Concave rods ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 610 49. The is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends. a. single flat wrap b. double flat wrap c. bookend wrap d. spiral wrap ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 610 50. The uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand. a. single flat wrap b. double flat wrap c. bookend wrap d. spiral wrap ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 611 51. The uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. a. single flat wrap b. double flat wrap c. bookend wrap d. spiral wrap ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 611 52. All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into. a. subsections b. base sections c. parts d. panels
ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 597 53. In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called. a. rod sections b. base sections c. outer sections d. placements ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 597 54. refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. a. Base wrapping b. Base placement c. Base direction d. Base sections ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 597 55. Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional. a. sectioning of hair b. stress and tension on hair c. increased volume d. curl patterns ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 597 56. minimizes stress and tension on the hair. a. Base placement b. On-base placement c. Half off-base placement d. Off-base placement ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 57. The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as. a. wrapping point b. rod direction c. diagonal technique d. base direction ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 58. The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are. a. flat and spiral b. croquignole and even c. spiral and perpendicular d. croquignole and spiral ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 59. In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the in overlapping concentric layers. a. scalp to the ends b. longest to the shortest c. ends to the scalp
d. shortest to the longest ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 60. In a, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod. a. spiral perm wrap b. croqiognole perm wrap c. basic permanent wrap d. curvature permanent wrap ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 598 61. What is another name for the double-rod wrap technique? a. Piggyback wrap b. Straight wrap c. Spiral wrap d. Weave technique ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 599 62. The, also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases. a. basic permanent wrap b. curvature permanent wrap c. spiral perm wrap d. weave technique ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 63. Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head? a. Basic permanent wrap b. Curvature permanent wrap c. Spiral perm wrap d. Weave technique ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 64. Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair, in which wrapping pattern? a. Weave technique b. Bricklay permanent wrap c. Basic permanent wrap d. Straight wrap set ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 600 65. What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zigzag partings to divide base areas? a. Basic permanent wrap b. Curvature permanent wrap c. Spiral perm wrap d. Weave technique ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 600
66. Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of. a. porosity b. abrasions c. disorders d. tightness ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 67. Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for and will not hold a curl. a. color services b. a haircut c. permanent waving d. wig fitting ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 68., often found in home haircoloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. a. Peroxide b. Waving solution c. Ammonia d. Metallic salts ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 602 69. What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form? a. Texturizing b. Permanent waving c. Chemical softening d. Chemical hair relaxing ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 603 70. is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows. a. Fluidity b. Viscosity c. Liquidity d. Movement ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 71. combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing. a. Permanent waving b. Heat styling c. Japanese thermal straighteners d. Chinese thermal straighteners ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 604 72. What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers? a. Hydrogen ion b. Keratin ion c. Peroxide ion d. Lithium ion ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 605
73. Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with. a. conditioning solutions b. color shampoos c. thio relaxers d. normalizing solutions ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 74. Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n). a. normalization bond b. acidic bond c. lanthionine bond d. amino bond ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 605 75. Which relaxer contains only one component and is used without mixing? a. Neutralizing relaxers b. Metal hydroxide relaxers c. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers d. Calcium hydroxide relaxers ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 606 76. Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called. a. metal relaxers b. no-lye relaxers c. lye relaxers d. medium relaxers ANS: C PTS: 1 REF: Page 606 77. Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and sold as no mix no lye relaxers? a. Potassium hydroxide relaxers b. Sodium hydroxide relaxers c. Ammonium thio relaxers d. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 606 78. Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are. a. guanidine hydroxide relaxers b. ammonium thioglycolate c. no-lye relaxers d. potassium hydroxide relaxers ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 606 79. What is a hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base? a. No-base relaxer b. Base cream relaxer c. Cream relaxer d. Metal hydroxide relaxer ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 607
80. The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of. a. lanthionization b. hydroxide c. ammonia d. coatings ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 608 81. During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is. a. sufficiently relaxed b. insufficiently relaxed c. normalized d. overprocessed ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 608 82. Which conditioner contains an acidic ph that restores the hair s natural ph and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer? a. Lanthionization solution b. Natural lotion c. Swelling cream d. Normalizing lotion ANS: D PTS: 1 REF: Page 609 83. Keratin straightening treatments work by in a semi-permanent manner. a. flat ironing b. fixing the keratin in place c. breaking side bonds d. neutralizing hydrogen bonds ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 611 84. A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a. a. permanent wave b. soft curl permanent c. full curl permanent d. relaxer retouch ANS: B PTS: 1 REF: Page 613 85. Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area? a. Back of the head b. Front hairline c. Scalp area d. Side area ANS: A PTS: 1 REF: Page 634