Fashion & Sustainability World Tour Osmoz GROUP, Training and branding, transversal and multicultural, French savoir-faire
EXPERTISE FIELDS Creative Softwares Fashion & Luxury Perfumes & Cosmetics French Savoir-faire Creative innovation Industries
Sustainability : Worlds to use? sustainable, ethical, organic, green, slow, conscious, recyclable,..or what else?
What are we talking about More sustainable fashion can be defined as clothing, shoes and accessories that are manufactured, marketed and used in the most sustainable manner possible, taking into account both environmental and socio-economic aspects. (Green Strategy)
Sustainability CSR Environment People Traceability Newlife by Sinterama Reformation s L.A. factory. Image via Reformation LIFECYCLE PROCESS From manufaturing to sales
«Sustainability is imperative» P. Aubert (D.A. Façonnable) Sustainability, ethical manufacturing,corporate responsibility Sustainability Re Textile Re-use, Re-cycle, Re-duce,
Because we have a problem..
Across nearly every apparel category, consumers keep clothing items about half as long as they did 15 years ago. Fast & Furious??
By 2030, it is projected that overall consumption of textiles will have risen by 63%, from 62 million tons today to 102 million tons (1) 1 Global Fashion Agenda & The Boston Consulting Group, The Pulse of the Fashion Industry (2017), 8, http://globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/pulse-of-the-fashion-industry_2017.pdf.
Zara offers 24 new clothing collections each year H&M offers 12 to 16 and refreshes them weekly.
We all know (including consumers )
Globally, only 13% of used garments are collected, leaving a staggering 87% of all end-of-use textiles going to landfill and incineration Photo Courtesy of Petapixel Source : Ellen Mc Arthur Foundation and Circular Fibers Initiative, A new Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future (2017), 91,https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/ANew-Textiles- Economy_Full-Report.pdf. Photo extract of mancaogrizek.myportfolio.com
Solutions.. New business models From fibre, design to production, retail and usage
Solutions from inception to completion Environmental Responsibility Workers Rights and Wellbeing Fabric Components Corporate Responsibility Even Animal rigths From inception to completion of fashion cycle
Innovations Textile Production Treatment Sustainability Re Textile (Re-use, Re-cycle, Re-duce, )
2d hand Minimalism SWAP Or Land & Borrow FAIR SLOW Fiber / Materials RECYCLED or new MATERIALS Re Textile (Re-use, Re-cycle, Re-duce, ) or Local Vegan
Brands adaptation for more sustainability From core values and process To Fast fashion adaptation
From brands. Example : Kowtow Fairtrade certification ZQ Merino certification Sustainable trims Website extract
GOTS (Global Organism Textile Standard) Workers Rights Sustainable packaging Ethical fashion report. Website extract
Petit H Hermes
To groups
s Fast fashion becoming sustainable? A «stop fast fashion» concept store in Paris
And concept
In Korea also Korean brands zero waste production : i.e. RE;NANO line from the brand RE;CODE who are using unsold t-shirts and shirts and patched on it the scrap fabrics. PARTSPARTS design is having a zero waste in term of manufacturing and production line. SMK, (Sandra Meynier Kang) french designer She produces her collection in ethical way from the production with local manufacturers, using eco-textiles such as Pinatex or Econil. Moreover, 5% of the brand benefits are given to the non-profit organisation CARE
From brands to suppliers, retailers, Stella McCartney - Sustainable materials Well Made Clothes -WEBSITE / RETAIL : Brands Adopting 8 clothing values to shop from: sustainable, fair, transparent, vegan, gender equality, handcrafted, local, and minimal waste. Kowtow - Ethically sourced materials Reformation - Sustainable Practices Everlane - Ethical Factories Peopletree - Ethical and Fairtrade Patagonia - Environmentally focused Mara Hoffman - sustainable materials and processes Matt and Nat - short for Mat(t)erial and nature with sustainable and eco-friendly methods A Day - consciously designed technical fabrics Sophie Hulme - the project collection made with offcuts of unused leather Vetta - sustainable fabrics and responsible factorie
Sustainability from research or manufacturing to consumers REcycling to separate blends (examples) Re:newcell HKRITA and H&M Worn again (H&M and Kering partnership) UK-based innovation company, Worn Again, has developed a solvent-based recycling technology for separating and recapturing polyester (PET) and cotton from textiles and plastic bottles
(examples) Schoeller AG / Wear2Wear Partnership Five European companies, representing each phase of the recycling process, have joined together to develop cutting-edge production systems to turn textile fibres from used clothing into new functional fabrics. Dutch Awearness (Developed a fabric called Infinity) Lauffenmühle (Lauffenmühle developed biologically regenerative yarns, fabrics and ready to wear accessories meeting the stringent technical requirements of industrial laundry and having a high abrasion and pilling resistance)
WHATEVER your business is in Fashion industry YOU can do your own program of sustainability
Can we design fashion with nature in mind? Royalty-Free photo: Man's edited portrait PickPikpickpik.com
Example : Factor consideration in sourcing : Material distance, manufacture distance, eco credentials, fiber composition, recyclability, aftercare route,.
Key word now 5551 signatures
Technological enhancement across the whole value chain for TRANSPARENCY Pilot initiative that uses BLOCKCHAIN technology a distributed and secure ledger in a bid to enable both transparency and trust around collections.
Kering published its first integrated report today detailing the entire Group s activity for 2017. Kering s integrated report release is a first of its kind in the Luxury sector, aligning with the Group s commitment to transparency and proactively putting this principle into practice.
Can we make fashion safe and clean?? Use innovation & technologies
innovative materials like pinatex, lenzing,tencel, cork, seacell, mycoworks (mushroom skin), spider silk, recycled fiber,
Technologies Technologies for sustainable textile production in terms of scale-up, technical quality of product, life cycle performance etc. Techniques: i.e. spindye, plasma pretreatment, increased cutting length of regenerated fibers, digital printing, paper based fabrics etc. Potential of increased automation and IT-solutions in general. Sustainable fashion must ALSO be built on biotechnology, nanotechnology, augmented and virtual reality, IoT, wearables, artificial intelligence, 3D printing, and even genomics.
Innovations & Collaborations Refibra from Lenzing Econyl from Aquafil
Jaden Christopher Syre Smith is an American actor, rapper, singer and songwriter. G-Star RAW and Jaden Smith team up for sustainable collaboration All marketing technics from real innovation, collaboration to influencers / artists
Ellen MacArthur Foundation collaborate with design professionals to develop new advanced methods on safe and circular materials. Kering partners with Worn Again H&M partners with Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Have you chosen YOUR collaboration.?????
Sustainability & Certifications Confusing sustainable fashion certifications The most = marketing race
Sustainability Certifications European, international, local For more information, check http://www.ecolabelindex.com/eco labels Example of lauffenmuehle certifications
From fair trade to organic, to ethically produced and handmade there is a constant clutter of words & numerous certifications
New trend = new challenges i.e. Fashion on-demand on-demand (such as tailor-made, custom-made and bespoke items) Fashion on-demand implies that the customer can choose his/her preferred style, fabric, size and possible details from a range of pre-designed options, thus co-creating an item of choice before production. The store is essentially a showroom and the order would normally not take more than three weeks Amazon
Amazon collaboration / fashion week Fast / slow or FAST & faster? Amazon partnered with Nicopanda on a "see-now, buy-now. / London Fashion Week Allow show attendees and viewers anywhere to immediately buy the designs seen on the runway. Utilizing Amazon's relatively little-known instant screen-printing business, Merch by Amazon, show attendees and viewers anywhere will be able to immediately buy the T-shirts seen on the runway.
Costs? Can we see the real cost of the fashion? Photo Courtesy of The Guardian Image youngvic.org
Human rights / well being, materials, labor, transport Everlane brand website extraction
compassionate fashion Respect for workers, animals and the natural environment = ethical fashion movement Broader fashion industry is now opening up to a fundamental shift from simply being mindful to also feeling true compassion towards how people, animals and ecosystems are affected across the supply chain.
Can Fashion keep, rather than discard its value?
Circular fashion sustainable fashion circular economy circular fashion
By May 2018, the 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment had been signed by 94 companies, representing 12.5% of the global fashion market 1) Implementing design strategies for cyclability 2) Increasing the volume of used garments and footwear collected 3) Increasing the volume of used garments and footwear resold 4) Increasing the share of garments and footwear made from recycled post-consumer textile fibres Source : http://www.globalfashionagenda.com/publications/
From «eco» brand to fast fashion ones H&M circular approach
How to implement Sustainability intoyour business? Whatever your business is Korean Promotion of sustainability in Fashion An added value to export and sell
Sustainability project / education Knowledge of your know how Investigating the sustainability of the Korean textile and fashion industry Emerald Group Publishing Limited Youngjoo Na (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Inha University, Incheon, Korea.) Dong Kyu Na(College of Law, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.)
All countries are working on fashion sustainability Extract of Brochure CTAF (China Textile and Apparel Trade Fair / Paris ), pictureof conference France, UK, Germany, fashion sustainability concerns In Le Bourget Paris Exhibition Center 2018 China (Brochure extract) Extract of Brochure CTAF (China Textile and Apparel Trade Fair / Paris ) In Le Bourget Paris Exhibition Center 2018
CONCLUSIONS Sustainability : From marketing to realities Now a PLANNING to consider From fibre stage to supply chain Recyclability, innovation,.. Many different ways to implement sustainability into YOUR business
Customers / clients are willing more transparency, ethical business From new business models, circular ecosystem to customers education ECONOMIC / SOCIAL / ENVIRONMENTAL Korea know how in Fashion sustainability to emphasize
Korean success & trend setting worldwide K pop K cosmetics / K beauty K drama... /... Next one might be KOREAN TEXTILE / FASHION SUSTAINABILITY
CONTACT US: pascale@osmozgroup.paris 감사합니다. pascale.elmalan@gmail.com Osmoz GROUP, Training and branding, transversal and multicultural, French savoir-faire
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