LEATHER AND FOOTWEAR IN MÉXICO. Data on the production-consumption chain

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LEATHER AND FOOTWEAR IN MÉXICO Data on the production-consumption chain

INSTITUTO MEXICANO DE NORMALIZACIÓN Y CERTIFICACIÓN IMNC PARTNER IN MÉXICO Founded in 1993 as an organism for standardization and certificaction. IMNC s main objective is to strenghten industry, commerce and services national, regional and international competitiveness. IMNC Board of Director s is integrated by: Industry - Confederación de Cámaras Industriales de los Estados Unidos Mexicanos (CONCAMIN) Agriculture - Consejo Nacional Agropecuario (CNA) Services - Confederación de Cámaras Nacionales de Comercio, Servicios y Turismo (CONCANACO-SERVYTUR) Confederación de Asociaciones de Agentes Aduanales de la República Mexicana (CAAAREM) Commerce - Cámara Nacional de Comercio (CANACO) Academy - Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Government - Secretaría de Economía (SE) Consumers - Procuraduría Federal del Consumidor (PROFECO)

IMNC ACTIVITIES IMNC is supported by national outstanding experts in the field of standardization, certification and training. We are very active in the following national and international forums: ISO International Organization for Standardization IAF International Acreditation Forum ILAC International Laboratory Acreditation Cooperation COPANT Cooperación Panamericana de Normas Técnicas IAAC Interamerican Acreditation Cooperation CNN Comisión Nacional de Normalización

IMNC ACTIVITIES Verification Commercial information Restaurants quality Standardization Quality assessment Tourism Metrology Environmental assessment Graphic Arts Health and Safety Autoparts Cranes Certification SYSTEMS: QUALITY, ENVIRONMENT AND HEALTH AND SAFETY PRODUCTS: INDUSTRY, SPA AND AGRICULTURE

MARKET INFORMATION FOOTWEAR AND LEATHER MEXICO In Mexico several efforts to improve the competitiveness of the leather and footwear sector have been carried out since 2003 with the implementation of programs and funds for this purpose. The Ministry of Economy has stated that the average competitiveness of the sector is low, but nevertheless there is a group of companies with high levels of competitiveness in the international scale and a group in transition; both groups mark a trend for the other companies to become more competitive. The competitiveness studies carried out by the Ministry of Economy show that the population size of the country reveals a great potential for the national leather and footwear national industry, since the estimates on footwear consumption per person (now of 1.8 pairs) could increase to three.

Guanajuato 46.1% Distrito Federal 3.4% Jalisco 11.7% Estado de México 5.3%

MARKET INFORMATION Mexico footwear exports per country in thousands of USD 1999-2002 Countries 1999 2000 2001 2002 (Jan-Jun) (usd) % (usd) % (usd) % (usd) % TOTAL 426.9 100.0 405.1 100.0 356.6 100.0 148.3 100.0 USA 371.0 86.9 368.4 91.0 332.6 93.3 139.0 93.7 PUERTO RICO 5.9 1.4 4.9 1.2 5.3 1.5 3.0 2.0 CANADA 14.6 3.4 5.2 1.3 3.8 1.1 1.3 0.9 ITALY 0.3 0.1 0.5 0.1 0.7 0.2 0.7 0.5 GUATEMALA 2.2 0.5 2.1 0.5 1.7 0.5 0.7 0.5 COSTA RICA 4.1 1.0 1.8 0.4 1.1 0.3 0.5 0.3 CUBA 3.7 0.9 3.6 0.9 2.6 0.7 0.4 0.3 GERMANY 2.4 0.6 1.1 0.3 0.6 0.2 0.4 0.3 El SALVADOR 1.1 0.3 1.3 0.3 0.5 0.2 0.3 0.2 JAPAN 0.5 0.1 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 OTHERS 21.1 4.9 15.9 3.9 7.4 2.1 1.8 1.2 Source: Ministry of Economy

Destiny of the Mexican footwear exports in thousands of USD (2002-2004) COUNTRIES 2002 2003 2004 PARTICIPATION % (2003) OTHERS 328.68 318.42 290.41 100 USA 306.58 296.07 272.61 92.98 CANADA 3.065 3.033 2.93 0.95 SPAIN 0.32 0.52 1.79 1.17 PUERTO RICO 6.33 4.32 1.68 1.36 GUATEMALA 1.67 2.23 1.27 0.7 ITALY 1.94 1.61 1.26 0.51 UNITED KINGDOM DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 0.18 0.186 1.16 0.06 0.332 2.14 1.09 0.67 COSTA RICA 1.00 0.96 0.98 0.3 GERMANY 0.92 1.24 0.83 0.39 Source: Ministry of Economy

Foreign investment in the leather-footwear sector in Mexico (per country), 2001 Country Number of companies Thousands of USD Total 117 88294 USA 57 60366 KOREA 12 851 ITALY 8 524 SPAIN 8 7914 UNITED KINGDOM 4 86 TAIWAN 41 970 URUGUAY 3 2049 FRANCE 3 610 OTHERS 18 13924 Source: Ministry of Economy

Main data of exports to Europe Main products (77.3% of total export to Europe in 2001) footwear for men (15.3% ) women's footwear (11.7%) footwear parts (11.5%) footwear with plastic sole (11.1%) To have a more competitive sector Mexico need to focus in three market niches: a) the domestic market in a context of international competitiveness b) North America c) European Union.

Mexico footwear exports to European Union in thousands of USD. Description 1999 2000 2001 (usd) % (usd) % (usd) % TOTAL 10791 100 6378 100 3583 100 Selected products 8500 78.7 4755 74.6 2771 77.3 Men footwear 731 6.8 1042 16.3 547 15.3 Women footwear 1249 11.6 384 6.0 421 11.7 Footwear parts 100 0.9 164 2.6 411 11.5 Plastic sole footwear 1586 14.7 442 6.9 399 11.1 Plastic sole footwear that covers ankle 237 2.2 379 5.9 249 6.9 Cuts of leather (outfront) 2126 19.7 665 10.4 194 5.4 Children footwear 766 7.1 1028 16.1 166 4.6 Other varieties with plastic sole 1428 13.2 433 6.8 163 4.5 Other varieties for men 166 1.5 147 2.3 128 3.6 Sports footwear for men 111 1.0 71 1.1 93 2.6 OTHERS 2297 21.3 1623 25.4 812 22.7

Main data of exports to Europe The Mexico European Union Business Center, as part of the Ministry of Economy Integral Program to support small and medium size enterprises (PIAPYME) launched the program Technology for the design and forms of footwear for exportation to European Union in 2003 and 2004 coordinated by COFOCE, the Coordinator of Foreign Commerce of the State of Guanajuato, with workshops in 22 companies focused in the improvements of design.

Commercialization activities of Mexican footwear in Europe 2003-2006. Missions to Europe

Main stakeholders in the value chain The main stakeholders in the value chain of footwear in Mexico were identified from information of the productionconsumption chains in the states of Jalisco and Guanajuato. At this point of the project contacts are in a beginning stage but this exercise has been very useful for this near future purpose of involving them in different steps of the ecolabelling project.

Figure 2. Mexico s leather footwear production-consumption chain stakeholders. Leather Tannering and finishing SUPPLIER ANPIC (Leather, machinery and other materials) National Association of Suppliers of the Footwear Industry ANPICUR National Association of Products for the Tanning Industry CANALCUR National Chamber of the Tanning industry ANCU National Association of the tanners CICUR National Association of the Tanning industry in Guanajuato CRIC Regional Association of the Tanning industry in Jalisco Association of Chemists and Technicals of Leather in Leon and Jalisco PRODUCTION CICEG Chamber of the Footwear Industry of Guanajuato and CICEJ, Chamber of the Footwear Industry in Jalisco CANAICAL, National Chamber of the Footwear Industry COSEC Coordinator of the leather and footwear sector Manufacturing of leather footwear Manufacturing of soles and heels RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CIATEC RESEARCH AND CONSULTANCY CENTER IN LEATHER AND FOOTWEAR CEJALDI JALISCO DESIGN CENTER CADIS CENTER FOR LCA AND SUSTAINABLE DESIGN UNIVERSITIEs Footwear 100% leather Leather footwear with synthetic sole Plastic footwear with synthetic sole Fabric (textile) footwear with synthetic sole Wholesale Retail and shoe stores Exports COMMERCIALIZATION COFOCE Coordinator of exports of the State of Guanajuato National Bank of Foreign Commerce BANCOMEXT NAFIN National Finance Program FAIRS: INMODA/MODAMA./ANPIC/ CALZATECNIA/SAPICA Chart compiled fro data of the productive chain of footwear and leather in Jalisco and the productive chain of footwear in León, Guanajuato. Sources: Jalisco State Program of Science and Technology, page. 3 and Ortiz and Martínez, Competitive factors in footwear chain in León, 2000, page 566. Ministry of Economy, Program for the competitiveness of the leather and footwear sector, 2003, page. 61.

Commercialization The commercialization channels for footwear in the internal market are dominated by the relationship manufacturerindependent retailer, following shoe stores and chains and wholesalers (with less importance). The specialized shoe stores are the dominant sales channel, with a tendency to expand mainly because of factors of fashion and the variety of products that are offered to the consumer. It is very important for the manufacturer to dominate the channels of commercialization, according to CECIC: In general the shoe stores are more important The stores of the National Department and Supermarket Association (ANTAD) mark 60% Catalogue sales approximately 40 to 50% with the advantage of credit sales 30% goes to wholesalers and 130% is over the cost of manufacturing.

Commercialization The financial support is provided by NAFIN (National Finance organization) that established a program of financial support for industrial subcontracts. These credits allow obtaining bank credits with NAFIN as a guarantee. The promotion of exports is provided by the National Bank of Foreign Commerce (BANCOMEXT). This bank plays an important role because it provides financial and non financial services to exporting companies. The benefits that it offers are not only exclusive to this industry. The promotional programs and those of technical formation and assistance are the most important for the footwear industry. There is an Integral Program to support of SMEs, Mexico- European Union Business Center.

Commercialization - FAIRS SAPICA National Fair of Leather MODAMA Footwear fashion exposition, to promote and disseminate national footwear designs. ANPIC International Fair of Suppliers, Machinery and Fashion for the footwear industry. CALZATECNIA 2007 Proposals of Value in Real Time" will take place in Leon, Guanajuato, Mexico, on August 17 and 18, 2007 A presentation about the ecolabelling project in this event is expected.

Research and Development The Center for Research and Consultancy of Leather and Footwear CIATEC is an important partner in this project with whom we have already signed a project agreement. The center supports the areas of process engineering, manufacturing, materials development and certification. It is a valuable center for the companies. The Mexican Association of Footwear Design (AMDICAM)

Eco-labeling status in México In Mexico, the green products market is a niche; there is lack of information and awareness about these products. The most successful example of certification of a green product is organic labeling, that responds to the increasing demand of the developed countries and benefits from premium prices in the international market. In the Federal District only a Green Organic Label has been established. The National Institute of Standards and Certification (IMNC) offered a workshop on eco-labeling in 2005 with around 60 companies attending, and so far there have been 75 sales of the standards related to eco-labeling (product declarations) for ISO 14020:2000 NMX-SAA-14020-IMNC-2004, 73 for ISO 14021:1999 - NMX-SAA- 14021-IMNC-2004, and 76 for ISO 14024:1999 NMX-SAA-14024- IMNC-2004.

PROJECT TEAM IMNC Dr. Nydia Suppen Eng. Angélica Contla Staff MANUFACTURING CIATEC group leader for training and activities with manufacturing industries (agreement signed) Ing. Gustavo Alvarado GOVERNMENT Ministry of Environment Ministry s Advisor Office. Ing. Arturo Rodríguez DESIGN Mexican Association for Footwear Design and Biodesign (agreement to be signed). M.D. Josefina Pernett