Global market review of denim and jeanswear forecasts to edition (revised and updated)

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Global market review of denim and jeanswear forecasts to 2023 2019 edition (revised and updated) Image Forster Rohner Textile Innovations E-broidery Technology

Global market review of denim and jeanswear forecasts to 2023 By Malcolm Newbery, Owner and Principal of Malcolm Newbery Consulting Ltd And Wenyu Wang, Associate Consultant to Malcolm Newbery Consulting Ltd December 2018 Published by Aroq Limited Aroq House 17A Harris Business Park Bromsgrove Worcs B60 4DJ United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1527 573 600 Fax: +44 (0)1527 577 423 Web: www.just-style.com/market-research/ Registered in England no: 4307068

Copyright statement 2018 All content copyright Aroq Limited. All rights reserved. This publication, or any part of it, may not be copied, reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or be transmitted in any form by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of Aroq Limited. This report is the product of extensive research work. It is protected by copyright under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. The authors of Aroq Limited s research reports are drawn from a wide range of professional and academic disciplines. The facts within this report are believed to be correct at the time of publication but cannot be guaranteed. All information within this study has been reasonably verified to the author s and publisher s ability, but neither accept responsibility for loss arising from decisions based on this report. just-style.com membership At just 1 for a 30-day trial, you will gain access to a growing portfolio of exclusive members only content, including a constantly updating stream of news, feature articles and analysis. Established in 1999, just-style has rapidly evolved into the premier source of global news, analysis and data for busy senior executives. For details of the current special joining offer visit: www.just-style.com/offer.aspx

CONTENTS Executive summary 2 About this edition 2 Purpose of the denim and jeans report 2 Trends and issues 2 The world jeans market by value, 2018 and 2023 3 Jeans price architecture 3 The world jeans market by volume, 2018 and 2023 3 The selected country markets 3 Jeans supply chain and trade 3 Denim capacity and trade 4 Cotton growing and international trade 4 Report methodology 6 Quantification of the jeans market 6 Geographical world regions 7 Chapter 1: The world jeans market by value 9 The world jeans market value, 2018 estimate 9 The world jeans market value, 2023 forecast 9 Time lines and growth percentages for value 10 The concept of the just-style time line 10 Time line 2013-2023: the jeans market in value 11 Jeans price architecture 12 The pricing onion in the retail jeans market 12 The price-fashion matrix 13 Chapter 2: The world jeans market by volume 16 The world jeans market volume, 2018 estimate 16 Average prices and consumption per person figures 16 The world jeans market volume, 2023 forecast 17 Time lines and growth percentages for volume 18 The importance of the just-style time line in units 18 Time line 2013-2023: the jeans market in volume 18 Selected countries, the denim and jeans situation 19 United States 20 China 20

CONTENTS India 21 Brazil 21 Russia 22 Time line 2013-2023: the jeans market in percentage growth 22 Chapter 3: Supply chain, trade and capacity 25 Jeans and denim supply chain analysis 25 Retailers, brands, jeans manufacturers, and denim weavers 25 Most common jeans supply chain models 26 Consumption, production and international trade in jeans 26 Consumption through organized retail or thorough the black or grey economy 26 Production of jeans across the world 27 Jeans imports and where they come from 28 Denim capacity worldwide 30 Difficulties in calculating denim production and capacity 30 Denim weaving capacity 30 The major denim mills around the world 32 Denim international trade 35 Jeans and denim trade 35 Denim exports 35 Denim imports 38 Cotton growing and international trade 39 Who grows the cotton? 39 Cotton prices 40 The China effect, on cotton, denim and jeans 40 Chapter 4: Pen pictures of the jeans market 42 The 5 pocket straight leg men s western jean 42 History 42 Basic 43 Functional 44 Authenticity 45 Fashionable 46 Women s skinny jeans 47 History 47

CONTENTS Mainstream 49 Functional 51 Fashionable 53 Conclusion 55 Flared jeans 55 History 55 Basic 56 Fashionable 57 Fad 60 Chapter 5: Industry trends and issues 63 The jeans consumer, attitudes, trends and issues 63 Design and product, attitudes, trends and issues 64 CSR, attitudes, trends and issues 67 Business, attitudes, trends and issues 69 _

LIST OF TABLES & FIGURES Trading exchange rates 6 Table 1: World jeans market in US$bn, 2018 estimate 9 Table 2: World jeans market in US$bn, 2023 forecast 10 Table 3: World jeans market time line, 2013-2023 in US$bn 11 Table 4: World jeans market time line, US$ cumulative percentage growth 11 Table 5: World jeans market, 2018, in price bands 12 Figure 1: Price fashion matrix for jeans, consumer attitudes 13 Table 6: World jeans market, units millions, 2018 estimate 16 Table 7: World jeans market, units millions, 2023 forecast 17 Table 8: World jeans market time line, 2013-2023 in units millions 18 Table 9: World jeans market time line, units millions and cumulative percentage growth 19 Figure 2: Supply chain, producer to consumer 25 Table 10: Major jeans manufacturing countries, 2017, by pieces produced 27 Table 11: US imports of denim jeans, ranked by country of source in units 28 Table 12: European imports of denim jeans, ranked by country of source 29 Table 13: Denim weaving capacity estimate for 2017 31 Table 14: Denim fabric exports, ranked by leading supplying country 2017, as a % of US$ values 36 Table 15: Denim fabric imports, ranked by leading supplying country 2017, as a % of US$ values 38 Table 16: World cotton growing (millions of bales) 39 Table 17: Cotton production and the Cotlook Index 40 Figure 3: Jeans brand matrix for 5-pocket straight leg jeans 43 Figure 4: Jeans brand matrix for women s skinny jeans 49 Figure 5: Jeans brand matrix for women s flared jeans 56 Table 18: Jeans product categories and consumer attitudes 63

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1

Executive summary About this edition This edition of just-style s denim report is based upon the previous (2017) edition. We have fully revised and updated the consumer market and industry trends chapters, but kept the supply chain and product profile chapters as per the 2017 edition. Purpose of the denim and jeans report This just-style updated report is intended to provide worldwide market knowledge about the denim and jeans industry for people working in it. It also delivers insightful views on the issues affecting future business decision making for denim and jeans executives. Trends and issues As this is an update, the Executive Summary starts with recently updated issues for denim and jeans executives. They fall into five categories: Consumers Design and product Technology, operations and the supply chain Corporate social responsibility Business issues The marketing material that jeans brands are pushing at the consumer is go your own way. Bit this means that there are no trends, which makes a mockery of concentration on differentiating your brand through design and product. Within design and product, it selling of authenticity and heritage shows no sign of abating. The fashion for organic shows no sign of abating, although the reality is that the fabrics are increasingly using less cotton. Operations and supply chains continue to exert the minds of jeans executives, although this has become merged with a frenzy for new environmentally friendly processes in fabric weaving and finishing. It is very CSR driven. Finally, all of this is being driven within a business situation in which the developed world is experienced slow growth and a lot of retailer pain. But the growing regions are showing an exuberant panache for showing off, which is NOT very CSR. It s a confusing situation in which to be making strategic marketing and investment decisions. 2

CHAPTER 1: THE WORLD JEANS MARKET BY VALUE 8

Chapter 1: The world jeans market by value The world jeans market value, 2018 estimate Introduction and explanation In this update of the April 2017 denim and jeans report, all the US$ value figures are estimates at retail prices. That means the price paid by the consumer including any sales taxes. The unit millions figures are pairs of jeans for men women and children. Estimates for parts of the world where market research data does not exist are based on average consumption (purchases) of jeans per person (including for children) per year. Some unit numbers have changed from previous editions for years after 2016. The main reason for this is due to changes in exchange rates, which affect the unit estimates. World jeans market 2018 The world jeans market for 2017 is worth US$56.55 bn. The manner in which it is subdivided by continents is given in Table 2. Table 1: World jeans market in US$bn, 2018 estimate World North America Europe and Turkey Asia South America Rest of the World 2018 57.30 20.10 19.75 11.98 4.20 1.27 2018 as a% 35% 34% 21% 7% 2% Source: just-style.com Europe accounts for US$19.75bn of the total, and North America for US$20.10bn. Together they have a combined share of 69% of the world total, even though the population in those two continents represents less than 15% of the world total. The percentage share held by Asia is 21%, and the combined share of South America and the Rest of the World is just under 10%. In macro-economic terms, although the share of the market held by the developed world is declining, it is declining gradually. It takes a very long time for industry shares to change considerably. The world jeans market value, 2023 forecast By 2022, the world jeans market will have grown from US$56.55bn to be worth US$59.46bn. 9