fitting series C, \ 91am the (Ram J/{uSQ Lm (Dnege The basic muslin dress is designed to help the woman who sews solve her individual fitting problems. If selected properly and made accurately the dress can serve as a guide in altering all patterns to your own individual measurements. SELECTING YOUR BASIC PATTERN Basic patterns are made by all major pattern companies. You should not have trouble finding one. Select the right size. You can avoid many alterations if you do so. Size is chiefly determined by your bust measurement. It is much easier to alter the pattern at the waist and hips than at the bust. -. When measuring for your basic pattern size remember to: 1. Make sure your tape measure does not stretch. 2. Hold your tape measure snugly- not too tight - not too loose. 3. Wear your best fitting bra and girdle. 4. Be sure to have correct posture. Stand before a mirror C when taking measurements. 5. Measure over thin garments, never over bulky clothes. 6. Determine your figure type by your measurements and stature. Remember you may need a half-size pattern. BUST - measure around fullest part of bust, keeping the tape measure a little high in back. WAIST- measure at the smallest part of waistline and draw snugly. Tie a string around the natural waistline to determine accurate waist measurement. HIPS - measure the hips about 7 inches below the waistline. BACK WAIST LENGTH - have someone measure you from the base of your neck to your waistline. Remember that your pattern size cannotbe determined by your ready-to-wear garments. As a rule, your pattern size will be larger. Basic pattern sizes are based on ideal figure measurements. The following information gives the ideal differences in proportions of the body: Bust. is 8 inches larger than the waist. Hip is 10 inches larger than the waist. Hip is 2 inches larger than the bust.. When cutting out basic dress, add enough seam allowance at the following pattern C positions so the total seam allowance will equal 1 inch (the regular 5/8 3/8-1 inch). shoulder seams, side seams of bodice, side seams of skirt, waistline seam of bodice, waistline seam of skirt and underarm seams of sleeves. All other seams should have regular 5/8 inch allowances (neck, sleeve cap, and armhole). All seams will be stitched on the original 5/8 seam line. :- «V ~
CHECKPOINTS FOR A GOOD FIT It is difficult to establish rules and regulations for proper fitting of a particular garment because so many factors enter into the situation. Fit often is determined by the: ---type of figure ---age of the person ---type of garment ---present day fashion. Try on your basic dress right side out and check your fit. Have someone help you answer the following questions: Yes No Does the sitting? dress have wearing comfort while you are standing, Walking and Yes No Are the directions of the grainline correct? All grainlines should run in perfect alignment. Lengthwise grainlines should be perpendicular to floor. Crosswise grainlines should be parallel to floor. Yes No Does the garment have a smooth overall fit - neither too loose or too tight? Yes No Do the normal underarm seams fall straight down from center of armpit to the floor? Yes No Does the waistline fall at the normal waist and appear to be straight around the figure? Yes No Does the normal shoulder seam follow the line of the shoulder? Yes No Is the neckline fitted comfortably without gaping or appearing too snug? Yes No Does the sleeve line follow the normal shoulder curve? Yes No Are the armholes comfortable? Do you have enough ease to rotate your arms and raise them above your head? There should be no wrinkles when your arms are at your side. Yes No Are your sleeves the correct length? Yes No Do the sleeves hang straight down fromshoulder with no wrinkles? Do you have freedom of movement? h A ". fir. Yes No Do you have 3 to 4 inches ease over Stand across back? Yes No Do you have plenty of room acros fiie"back when you bring your arms forward? '* A:rf. {lr, w }: '."'\'.' Yes No Do you have 2 or 3 inches ofease as : f hipline? Yes No Are all darts in the correct ~sifiidht o fifiihéi lfiody? Yes No Are the shoulder darts dirthedftw; the bust? faint }_.4- (3 75:-"15' Yes No Do the underarm darts point towardsteerown of the bust? The garment may fit better if youmake two darts 'oi- one.. 4,.
Yes No Do the waistline darts point toward the bust in front bodice or shoulder; blade in the back bodice? Yes No Do the darts in the long sleeve fall at correct elbow position? - If one dart it should fall at the point of elbow. - If you have two darts the space between the two darts should center at the elbow. - The center dart of three should fit at the elbow. If all checks are in the yes column, you have an ideally proportioned figure and a good fitting basic dress. It is indeed rare if you do not need to make alterations. When you do, follow these instructions. ALTERING THE BASIC MUSLIN DRESS Proceed to fit your dress in the following order, taking one part at a time. FittinLProblem: Le_ngthe_ning_and _s_hor_tgn_i_ng_the _garmen_t. These are the two most common and easiest pattern adjustments to make. On most basic patterns you will find lengthening - shortening lines that indicate alteration position _on blouses, skirts, sleeves and shorts. To shorten: (general instruction for bodice, skirts, sleeves and shorts). After deciding on the amount to alter, fold a horizontal take-up tuck at the shortening line. Skirts may be shortened by trimming required amount from hemline provided the take-up amount is no more than 2 inches. If the required amount is more than this, the additional amount should be taken on the true grain at the hip line. To lengthen: (general instruction for bodice, skirt, sleeves and shorts). When you determine how much to shorten the muslin, remove garment and cut along the adjustment lines. Insert fabric strip back of cut edges. Note that long sleeves can be altered above or below the elbow or in both places. This is determined by the location of the elbow.
Fitting Problems: 139ch _b_ag_k_ tgg large; If this problem exists, lengthwise folds are formed across the back. Basic Muslin Correction: In order to.: get an accurate fit, the bodice is removed from the skirt. Fold over a small tuck through the center of waistline darts to the neck seamline on both sides of the bodice. This will take out extra fulness. ' Pattern Correction: Transfer the basic muslin markings to the pattern. Remark dart. Fitting Problem: B_r_ga_t_i_b_ac_l_<. Bodice too tight across back making the garment uncomfortable when arms are raised..basic Muslin Correction: To make the correction, remove skirt from bodice and take out back bodice dart. Slash the bodice through the dart up to the shoulder seam. Remark and baste bodice back dart. Pattern Correction: Slash back pattern piece same as basic dress bodice. Spread and place a strip of paper under slash and adjust to the right amount. Remark dart. Fitting Problem: Bodice back wrinkles across back below neck. These-wrinkles are caused by waist, back being too long between shoulder blades and neckline. Basic Muslin Correction: To eliminate wrinkles, pin a tuck across the upper bodice back starting at the center back and tapering to nothing at armholes. Pattern Correction: Transfer same tuck to the pattern. Re establish a new center back along the altered position. Remark neck dart.
Fitting Problem: Bound ba_cl_<_. This causes the dress to pull across the back between armholes making the back waistline appear too short at the center back. Basic Muslin Correction: Slash across the bodice just above the armhole notches. Place fabric underneath the garment and spread out space dartwise as shown in drawings. Pattern Correction: Slash pattern and spread as indicated in basic dress. Straighten center back line and take up small dart at neckline to restore neckline. Fitting Problem: yarrgwslioulg- 2135;. Armhole seam extends beyond the natural curve of the s h o u 1 d e r causing wrinkles to form in the armhole. Basic Muslin Correction: Beginning outside the shoulder dart, make a small take-up dart in the front and back shoulder seam - tapering to nothing at the middle of the armhole as shown in the drawing. Pattern Correction: Transfer this tuck to your pattern at the exact location. Fitting Problem: l}11) _d_shq11_dgrs. Garment is too tight across the shoulders. Armhole seam is pulled over the natural shoulder line. h Basic Muslin Correction: Slash bodice back to armhole edge s t a 1 tin g outside the shoulder dart. Insert Slash front the same way. a piece of fabric under these out edges and spread the desired amount to bring the armhole seam to its natural position. Pattern Correction: Slash 'pattern pieces as you have the basic dress. Insert a piece of paper and spread.- Re establish a new shoulder cutting line.
Fitting Problem: _S_q1gu;e gho_u_lg_e_r_s. Grainline swings up as it approaches the armhole and wrinkles will form across the back and below the neck. Basic Muslin Correction Take sleeves out of bodice and open the shoulder seam to allow it to spread the necessary amount. If your seam allowance is not enough to allow for amount needed, place a piece of extra fabric under the shoulder line and draw a new shoulder seam at front and back. This seam is tapered from neck to shoulder edge. Build up the armhole the same amount as was added to the shoulder. Be sure and keep original shape of armhole. Pattern Correction' Cut out necessary amount at the back shoulder line and underarm as you did in correcting the basic dress. Fittings Problem: 1_0211_18_ _h2u.ld_9 5-_ Garment does not fit at top of arm. This causes the fabric to droop and folds form under the arm and along armhole seams. Basic Muslin Correction: Take out sleeves and re-pin shoulder line to remove the necessary amount. Lower the armhole at underarm to retain shape and size of armhole. Do not change neckline. Pattern Correction: Re-establish a new shoulder seam line and armhole using basic dress changes.
Fitting Problem: Egrggbgsjggdypm; arm; There is an uncomfortable pull across blouse front and upper arm. This pull causes the waist and bust key grainline to swing upward. Basic Muslin Correction: If a small allowance is needed the inch seam may be let out to give needed comfort. For the very full bust you will need to cut bodice and spread the necessary amount. A strip of fabric is placed at the back of the cut edges. Positions to cut are shown in drawings. lie-establish darts. Usually darts are made deeper in proportion. Pattern Correction: Adjust pattern same as basic dress. Fitting Problem: gage impel; ar_m_. Often figures with large upper arms «need fullness at top of sleeve and not at the: armhole. Basic Muslin Correction: Slash length of sleeve through the center and spread right. amount for a comfortable fit. Fold darts from the slash toward the cap of the sleeve in order to make it lie flat. Note the dart tapers to nothing at the armhole. Here again pin a strip of fabric back of slashed edges and adjust for comfort. PattJeg: Correction: Transfer the same dres js. alterations to your paper pattern and place a strip of tissue paper back of the. Slashed edges.
Fitting Problem: S_w_ax _bacl_c. Wrinkles at upper skirt back. The common figure fault of sway ( back causes wrinkles to form across the back between the waist and hip area. Basic Muslin Correction: Make a tuck at center back of sufficient depth to remove the wrinkles. Taper this tuck to side seam, as shown in illustration. Pattern Correction: Transfer this tuck to your pattern. Reestablish darts and true center back line at tuck. Fitting Problem: _1_._a g _hip_s_ 1vi_t_h_n_or_'nlal 9_r smaleaisfilipg. Skirt is too tight over the hips and too large in waistline. This causes wrinkles below waistline. Basic Muslin Correction: If a small amount is needed, let out the seam of your basic dress Figure a. If a large amount is needed the dress may be slashed from the hem to the waist about 4 inches in from the side seam Figure b. Insert a strip of fabric along the slashed edge and fit as shown in illustration Figure b. Pattern Correction: Make the same adjustments on the pattern as you did on the basic dress. Prepared by Mary Em Lee, Clothing Specialist Published by THE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE North Carolina State University at Raleigh and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating. State College Station, L Raleigh, N. C., George Hyatt, Jr., Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. A. 11-65-20M Home Economics 25