1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Sizing & Fit Chapter 6 Sizing & Fit Successful manufacturers and retailers spend much time researching and perfecting fit and sizing for their target customer Happy customers mean repeat buyers Sizing Size labeling suggests the suitability of a garment for a set of body dimensions Labeled sizes may vary considerably High-priced lines tend to run large, low-price, small VANITY SIZING is putting a smaller size label on a garment than the garment s actual size in order to make the consumer feel better about her/himself Sizes are grouped into sized classifications according to sex, age, body type, and sometimes garment type These are indicated in different manners Numbered Sizing Most common method of sizing for most mass-produced clothing types Can be body measurements, age indications, or numbers that correlate to a set of measurements on a chart Doesn t mean that 2 garments of the same size are going to fit the same way even if they are identical styles Voluntary Standards Standardized size charts were developed by the governement then rescinded ASTM now develops charts not mandatory New studies being done using body scanners Size USA Sizing Expressed as Measurements Mostly in men s wear Less confusing Sometimes used on websites or in catalogs in conjunction with pictograms Lettered Sizing S-L, adding X s at either end Condenses # of sizes manufactured and carried on floor Means fitting won t be as precise Can also use letters to indicate Length (S, A, R, L, T) One-Size-Fits-All, One-Size-Fits-Most Childrenswear Divided into groups according to age/lifestages Should never base size selection on the age of the child Some sizes overlap to accommodate differences in development speeds Sizes can be labeled by ages or letter sized Infants Infants/Babies Sizes correlate to height & weight Birth to 18 mo (officially) 0-3 mo considered Layette Size range 0-24 months often Toddler s 18 months to approximately 3 yrs Early walking stage Characterized by short, round fingers and undefined waistlines Sizes: 1T-4T 1
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Retailers often only carry 2T-4T Sizes correlate to height & weight Children s Preschool, juvenile, little boys /girls Approximately 3-6 years old Taller, slimmer than toddlers, but still undefined waistline Sizes 2-6, plus 6x Often only carry 4-6x for girls and 4-7 for boys (7 comes from the next size cat.) Sizes based on height & weight Girls For 7-11 years Bustline is undefined and waistline is slightly delineated Sizes 7-18, but usually only carry 7-14 Sizes correlate to height, chest, waist, and hip Suggested categories of slim, regular, and chubby Better terms for chubby: pretty plus, size up, special Plus is a growing market Girl s, cont. Preteen, teen, junior high, your juniors, bubble gum juniors Not a category listed in the ASTM standards For girls with a more defined waistline but don t fit the junior sizes Sizes 6-14 usually (correspond to girls sizes) Boys Approximately 7-17 years old Devolping shoulders, delineated waistline Sizes 2-24, but more often carry 8-20 Correlates to height, weight, chest, waist Suggest slim, regular, husky (or special) Sometimes retailers divide the category into boys sizes 8-14 and prep, student, teen, or cadet sizes 16-20 Womenswear Complex Divided by body type and garment type Sizes correlate to height, buts, waist, hip, and other measurements as needed Sizes vary greatly May change as women have less time to try on garments and less patience with shopping Outerwear 4 basic merchandising categories Juniors, misses, petites, large or plus 3 basic sizing classifications Juniors, misses, women s (petites end up as subcategories of each) Dress sizes are the most common way to refer to women s sizes May also have references to length (short, regular, tall) for bottoms or hip shape (slim, average, full) Misses Adult woman of average proportions and average height Also has merchandising/styling connotations Technically sizes 2-20 Retailers likely to carry 6-14 Some carry a 0 (may be vanity sizing) Petites Shorter than 5 4, average proportions 2
19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Same size #s, but with a P afterwards 52% American women under 5 4 but many also plus sized Talls Another subdivision For women over 5 7 Designated with a T Harder to find Often from catalog/web retailers Petites and Tall need careful design consideration, not just shrinking/stretching of main styles Women s In MASS MARKET this refers to plus sizes Adult woman of average height w/ full, mature figure Originally even sizes 34-2 These size designations almost extinct now Usually extend the misses sizes, sometimes putting a W after the size to designate Women s Sizes 14 or 16 to 20 or 24 Also Tall Women s and Super Women s (larger than the old size 52) Must design to flatter figure Women s Petites Shorter than average plus size woman Used to be called HALF SIZES now extinct Lower, fuller bustline, shorter sleeves, higher, larger waistline Dramatically growing market Juniors Fit short, slender, growing, youthful figure with higher bustline and higher waistline Odd sizes between the corresponding misses sizes 3-17 Retailers often carry 5-13 Tall juniors w/ a T (a bit contridictory) Junior Petites both rare Size range, not age, but still most people with that body type are in that age group Double ticketing (5/6) Not likely to fit anybody well, but saves floor space Underwear Often more consistent sizes due to repeat purchases and importance of comfort Basic enough that manufacturers size in fairly similar manner Can be letter sized, but number sizes offer better fit Bras Two part system Bra size is the under-bust measurement plus 5 or 6 inches (whichever makes an even #) Cup size is a letter Measure bust at fullest point, around body, parallel to floor Find difference from BRA size 1 difference = A, 2 = B, 3 = C Panties, slips, etc. Panty sizes correlate with hip measurements Half slips sized by waist measurement and length Full slips by bra size and length from waist Girdles by waist measurement and hip development Sleepwear, robes, and loungewear are size like dresses or by S,M,L, but tend to be less fitted 3
26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Menswear Clothing for adult males Fully developed shoulders, tapered waist, slim hips Includes: Men s clothing (men s suits, evening/tuxes, jackets, pants, overcoats) Sportswear (casual separates) Furnishings (shirts, ties, underwear, socks, sleepwear, accessories, misc.) Sizes: numerical expressed by body measurements or can be by Letter Also divided by figure types ( short, tall/long, slim, regular, big/portly/stout) Big & tall not account for 10% of sales Young men s sizes Designed for young men w/ developing builds Contain the smaller men s sizes and usually reflect more youthful styling Jackets Based on wearer s chest circumference and overall height Number denotes chest measurement Even numbers 32-50, typically 38-44 Sometimes has a letter that denotes height (S, R, L) Pants Based on 2 numbers: waist circumference and inseam Waist sizes usually 32-40 (smaller = young men s, larger = big) Inseam usually 29-34 (longer = tall) May also include rise (measurement from crotch level to waist level) short, regular, long Furnishings Shirts, ties, underwear, sleepwear, robes, and accessories Sports shirts usually s, m, l, xl Short sleeve dress shirts sizes based on neck circumference Long sleeve dress shirts based on neck circumference and sleeve length Sizes may be grouped Undershirts, sweaters, pajamas, robes sized by chest measurements or by S,M,L, Undershorts by waist measurements or S, M, L, Fit How well the garment conforms to the 3-d human body Crucial to consumer satisfaction Easier to find colors, prices, styles than good fit Estimated 70% of garments that don t sell well are due to fit or workmanship Personal preference affect opinions of fit strongly Controlling Fit Aim to produce apparel that consistently fits target market in order to increase sales and customer satisfaction Consistent fit pursued at every step of the apparel production process Checked during development by testing the prototype on a live fit model or on a form If a potential problem is detected, the garment is sent to the designer for a remedy Controlling Fit, Cont. Most manufacturers develop detailed fit specs for finished garments Conformance to these specs is check in-line by quality inspectors Measurements must fall within the tolerance limits for that particular size Consistent fit especially important for mail-order to prevent excessive returns Controlling Fit, Cont. A Flat (linear drawing of garment) and possibly zooms or call-outs (close-ups that focus on details) is included to communicate what the garment looks like Makes is easier to understand concepts and design 4
35 36 37 38 39 40 41 The spec measurements are accompanied with precise definitions of how they are measured A company s methods must be understood within the company, it s suppliers, and the customers in order for everyone to consistently agree upon the results In order to measure, the garment is placed flat on a table and the measurement instructions followed Five Elements of Fit Fit is based on 5 classic elements: Grain Set Line Balance Ease All are highly interrelated Grain Garment must be cut on grain On-grain garments hang evenly and appear symmetrical Off-grain garments will hang incorrectly or twist Problems occur when the garment is cut or sewn off grain or when the wearer s poor posture or figure irregularities interfere with the grain trueness Set Refers to a smooth fit without undesirable wrinkles Not the kind caused by not ironing The kind that occur because the garment is too large or too small Sometimes due to wearer s poor posture Wrinkles pinpoint cause of fit problem 1. Horizontal wrinkles under tension garment too tight for that area 2. Loose, vertical wrinkles garment too wide for that area 3. Vertical wrinkles under tension garment too short for that area 4. Loose, horizontal wrinkles garment to long for that area 5. Diagonal wrinkles garment lacks sufficient shaping for an area Line Refers to the alignment of the structural lines of the garment with the natural lines of the body Outline of the body, seams, Center front, Center back Do these hang straight, or as designed Balance When the garment is in equilibrium The right and left halves of the garment appear evenly balance, or symmetrical, when viewed from the front, back, or sides Involves grain and line Ease Refers to the amount of roominess in a garment The difference between the garment s measurements and the body s measurements Two types: fitting ease and design ease Fitting Ease Even closely fitted garments do not have the same measurements as the body it fits Must have adequate ease to allow room for ordinary movements like walking, sitting, reaching, and breathing Without fitting ease, garments are uncomfortable, appear tight and wrinkled, and wear out more quickly Some garments such as jackets and coats require more fitting ease Stretch fabrics substitute stretch for fitting ease. Some are even smaller than body 5
42 43 measurements Design Ease Extra style fullness added to fitting ease All garments have fitting ease but design ease is optional. It is added purely for the sake of appearance, giving the garment its style Amount depends on current fashion trends and the desired mood or style of the garment Oversized garments have more design ease Style fullness is not provided to enable a larger person to wear the garment it will affect the look of the garment Conversely, too much ease will also affect the look Evaluating fit Evaluated at many different stages Most important stage is development Evaluate prototype garments, make needed corrections Same concepts apply when fit research is being conducted on competitors garments All areas of the garment must be examined Each area of a garment has a specific fit Usually work top down and tackle the most obvious problems first 6