Guildhall Galleries. Where London began.

Guildhall Galleries. Where London began. Start your journey here

My Late Lord Mayor, Your Grace, My Lord Chancellor Your Excellencies, My Lords, Aldermen, Sheriffs, Chief Commoner, ladies and gentlemen... welcome, one and all, to Guildhall The Rt Hon The Lord Mayor of London 2016/17, Alderman Dr Andrew Parmley, Lord Mayor s Banquet, 2016 Contents & what to see 1 5 2 6 3 7 4 8 GUILDHALL ART GALLERY page 4 THE ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE page 6 CITY OF LONDON HERITAGE GALLERY page 8 GUILDHALL LIBRARY page 9 GUILDHALL TOURS AND EXPLORING GUILDHALL GALLERIES pages 18 &19 Guildhall Galleries Plan 5 4 CITY OF LONDON POLICE MUSEUM* page 10 GUILDHALL GREAT HALL page 12 ST LAWRENCE JEWRY page 14 THE CITY CENTRE page 16 6 What to see The Guildhall Galleries form a fascinating part of the historic Guildhall complex. To ensure you don t miss anything, we suggest you visit each location in turn as it appears in this guidebook and as shown below. For guided tours, please see the information on page 19 of this booklet. Enjoy your visit! On lower levels: 3 Welcome to Guildhall, the powerhouse of the City of London for a thousand years. Originally London was solely the City or Square Mile as it has become known and it became the capital of Roman Britain in AD100. Over the centuries, London flourished as a trading port, the rights and privileges of its citizens being well established by the time of the Norman Conquest of 1066. The City of London Corporation, which governed civic life and trade, developed a model of municipal democracy which was copied by many towns and cities and the City became the most powerful and prestigious Square Mile in the world. The City of London Corporation is custodian of a remarkable legacy. From a Roman sports arena to one of England s oldest public libraries, the art, treasures and curiosities gathered over the centuries are now available for everyone to enjoy. Entrance to the Great Hall * Opens November 2016 GUILDHALL YARD AMPHITHEATRE ARENA BELOW GROUND LEVEL 7 1 8 2 2 3

GUILDHALL ART GALLERY 1 } a Collection of Art Treasures worthy of the capital city Alfred Temple Gallery Director, 1885 Guildhall Art Gallery is essentially a portrait of the City and the riches of its art collectors. The gallery opened in 1886 at a time when, inspired by the public s increased taste for art, civic leaders were opening their collections for all to view free of charge. The aim of Guildhall Art Gallery was to display a Collection of Art Treasures worthy of the capital city. The gallery s first director mounted a series of popular exhibitions, queues for which stretched from Guildhall Yard to the Bank of England. He also started to collect contemporary art, a tradition maintained today. Fire almost entirely destroyed the gallery during the longest night of the Blitz in 1941. Although much of the collection had been moved for safety to an underground store in Wiltshire, the Gallery lost several hundred works of art. Undaunted, the City Corporation opened a temporary gallery, hosting loan exhibitions, the annual Lord Mayor s Art Award and the City of London Art Exhibition. In 1985, the City Corporation decided to re-develop the existing building and during the subsequent works the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre were discovered. This resulted in a major redesign to allow the public access to London s original place of entertainment. Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II opened the gallery in 1999. Today the gallery shows a changing display of about 250 artworks from its permanent collection of paintings, drawings and sculpture. Three collections are recognised as being of national or international significance Victorian art, historical paintings of London and Dutch 17th-century masterpieces. The Dutch paintings hang in the Mansion House, the Lord Mayor s official residence, and can be seen on a guided tour, see right. JOIN A GUIDED TOUR Visit the gallery and amphitheatre for free tours on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays; see the Dutch Masters at Mansion House on a paid tour on Tuesdays. See page 19 The Defeat of the Floating Batteries at Gibraltar, 1783-1791, John Singleton Copley (1738-1815) HOT SHOTS 4 The Ninth of November, Lord Mayor s Procession, 1888, William Logsdail (1859-1944) The painting The Defeat of the Floating Batteries at Gibraltar shows the burning of the bombarding ships by the British who fired red-hot heated shot at the advancing ships, creating an inferno. The Great Siege of Gibraltar (1779-83) was one of the world s longest military sieges. The 5,000 strong British garrison defeated combined French and Spanish forces of 65,000. The collection is particularly rich in Victorian art, whose styles and themes range from the Pre-Raphaelites to the late 19th-century fashion for all things Oriental. The London paintings take visitors on a colourful journey into the City s past, covering both dramatic events like the Great Fire of London of 1666 and crowds enjoying the Lord Mayor s Show, to everyday street scenes which provide a valuable insight into past life. The gallery s focus is on expanding this unique collection. There are also portraits of royalty and City benefactors dating back to the 18th century when the City Corporation commissioned works to adorn the Guildhall. One of the most remarkable paintings is John Copley s monumental Defeat of the Batteries at Gibraltar which stretches over two floors and around which the gallery was actually designed. In addition to the permanent collection, the gallery hosts temporary exhibitions, gallery talks, lectures and special events. La Ghirlandata, 1873, Dante Gabriel Rossetti (1828-1882) 5

ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE AND GUILDHALL YARD 2 } An artist s impression of the amphitheatre Judith Dobie MOLA there was a great roar... St. Augustine, Confessions, AD397 from the mass of spectators Hear the roar of the crowd and imagine the fear of the animals. The inside of the amphitheatre The City of London was under Roman rule for a fifth of its history. Around AD43, the Romans established Londinium: within 30 years they had probably built a wooden amphitheatre. The building received a major facelift in the early second century, possibly shortly after the visit of the new Emperor Hadrian to London. The amphitheatre was the Wembley Stadium of Roman London although the entertainment was more bloody and barbaric 2,000 years ago. More than 7,000 spectators sat on tiered wooden benches in the open air to watch wild animal fights and the execution of criminals. There may have been occasional combats between gladiators, although such entertainments were very expensive to put on. The amphitheatre would have been one of the most visible buildings on the Roman city skyline. Digging ever deeper the archaeologists discovered: the foundations of the Guildhall Chapel, demolished in 1812; stones from the stately porch of the 15th-century Guildhall; a medieval public toilet with intriguing objects which had ended up in its cess pit; and one of Europe s best preserved Saxon settlements with its closely packed houses, animal pens and market. For the full story, go to the nearby Museum of London. See page 18. GLADIATORS UNITED! Gladiators viewed themselves as a brotherhood, and some were organized into unions, or collegia, with their own elected leaders. When a warrior fell in combat, the union would ensure that their comrade received a proper funeral honouring his achievements in the arena. Over the centuries, the amphitheatre was buried under layers of later buildings. Historians assumed that a Roman city of the stature of London would have an amphitheatre but no-one could find any evidence. Then in February 1988, during site preparations for the new art gallery, workmen unearthed fragments of ancient walls and the archaeology team from the Museum of London moved in. Their discovery of the amphitheatre changed the face of Roman London. The record of the finds from 13 years of fieldwork filled three volumes. After a long period to dry out the remains, the amphitheatre opened to the public in 2002. Six metres (20ft) below the modern pavement is the amphitheatre s entrance tunnel and the east gate which had double wooden doors that opened into the arena itself. Parts of the arena walls are one metre thick (3ft) and 1.5 metres (5ft) high: they would originally have been much higher to keep animals from leaping into the crowd. Upstairs in the space outside the City of London Heritage Gallery you can discover some of the things that people have mislaid over the centuries from a tiny necklace clasp that someone may have lost while watching a spectacle in the amphitheatre, to a Saxon ice skate. From the adjacent balcony in the art gallery you can appreciate the sheer scale of the amphitheatre. A circle of black paving stones in Guildhall Yard, an open space for over 2,000 years, marks the original extent of the amphitheatre s arena. The outline of the amphitheatre from above 6 7

CITY OF LONDON HERITAGE GALLERY 3 } the City of London shall have all its ancient liberties Magna Carta, 1215 and free customs by land as well as by water 4 THE GUILDHALL LIBRARY AND EXHIBITION SPACE } This fayre and large librarye John Stow, A Survey of London, 1598 The City of London has a working record of its history stretching back nearly one thousand years. Opened in 2014 as part of the celebrations around the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta, the City of London Heritage Gallery showcases treasures held in trust for the nation. Displayed on a rotating basis, these documents have rarely been seen by the public before. Such rare documents belong to the collection of the London Metropolitan Archives whose holdings of records, documents, films, photographs and maps takes up the equivalent of 100 kilometres (62 miles). WILL(EL)M KYNG GRET WILL(EL)M BISCEOP Only three and a half lines long and issued by William I shortly after his coronation on Christmas Day, 1066, the William charter simply acknowledges the rights and privileges of the citizens of the City of London under the previous Saxon king, Edward the Confessor. Magna Carta, 1297 Other treasures which will regularly be displayed include: The Shakespeare Deed, one of only six documents in the world carrying the Bard s signature A 1775 letter signed by John Hancock from the American Congress in Philadelphia asking the City for its continued support The William charter, 1067 The charter from King John (1215) granting the City the right to appoint its own mayor The diary of 17th-century scientist Robert Hooke, whose importance is recognised by its inclusion in the UNESCO Memory of the World Register The plans of bomb damage across London in WW2 also included in the UNESCO Register Guildhall Library holds the world s largest collection of material devoted to a single city. It is the library of London history, capturing every aspect of city life the trades, the people and the buildings. The library itself has a colourful history. Thanks to the generosity of the rich and pious merchant Lord Mayor Richard Whittington, a fayre and large librarye opened at the Guildhall around 1425. In the mid 16th century, the first Duke of Somerset borrowed the books to furnish his new palace on the Strand. It appears that he never returned them. Three hundred years passed before the City opened another library. Guildhall Library looks after a series of remarkable collections on themes as Black Eyes and Lemonade (1951), Festival of Britain exhibition THE CAT S WHISKERS! Richard Whittington, four times Lord Mayor of London, left his fortune to benefit his city including founding a library and building a public toilet. The legendary Dick Whittington and his black cat have entertained children in ballads, stories and pantomime since the 17th century. varied as food and wine, 18th-century gardening, archery, and early music. The oldest book in the library s collection is a 13th-century bible. A 16th-century chained book, the Nuremburg Chronicle and a pristine copy of Shakespeare s First Folio are also to be found within the collection. Famous people with London associations are well represented the martyr Sir Thomas More, the essayist Charles Lamb, the diarist Samuel Pepys and the radical John Wilkes. The business of the capital can be traced back to 1677 through trade directories, and the library holds archive collections including those of the livery companies, the Stock Exchange and St Paul s Cathedral. Whether researching medieval law or family history, everyone is welcome to access the library s knowledge store of over 200,000 volumes. Guildhall Library hosts a programme of changing exhibitions throughout the year, as well as events, guided walks, receptions, talks, book launches and evening entertainment. Check the website (back page) for details of all activities. 8 9

CITY OF LONDON POLICE MUSEUM 5 } Portable communications equipment in the 1950s City policemen murdered by alien burglars The Daily Graphic magazine reporting the Houndsditch Murders, 1910...who are these fiends in human shape? The City of London Police force was established in 1839 to patrol the Square Mile. For many years, before the advent of the National Health Service, it also ran an ambulance service and had its own hospital for officers. The force has had many great achievements over the years, including the invention of the Automatic Number Plate Recognition (ANPR) system, to combat the threat from Irish Terrorists in the 1980s and now used globally, while also pioneering today s counter-terrorism strategies. The new City of London Police Museum, funded by a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund, tells the story of this unique police force and the crimes that it has tackled through a variety of objects, displays, uniforms, equipment and photographs. You can see a scale model of the jeweller s shop where the Houndsditch murders took place and uncover more about the officers who were murdered. Other displays chart how communications have changed during the 20th century and include a bomb made by a Suffragette. Unusual items include an Olympic medal won by police teams, whose proud sporting tradition dates back to 1908 when they won golds for the tug-of-war and heavyweight boxing, and a bronze for heavyweight wrestling. They are still the reigning champions for the Olympic tug-of-war. THE HOUNDSDITCH MURDERS On 17 December 1910, seven City of London policemen investigated suspicious noises from a jeweller s shop. Armed only with whistles and truncheons, the officers were fired at, with three policemen killed and two permanently disabled in the volley of bullets from the burglars. One of the most dramatic moments in the City of London Police s history, the Houndsditch murders remains one of the biggest losses of life or injury of police officers on duty in this country. It would lead onto the infamous Siege of Sidney Street in which two of the suspected burglars died following a shoot-out. Suspected gang member from Houndsditch Murders CATHERINE EDDOWES A RIPPER VICTIM The City of London Police became involved after the notorious serial killer s fourth victim, Catherine Eddowes, was found dead in Mitre Square, the second of two corpses to be discovered within an hour of each other on 30 September, 1888. A City of London policeman on the beat found her body only hours after she had been released from the cells for being drunk and disorderly. You can find out the full story in the Police Museum. 10 11

GUILDHALL GREAT HALL 6 } Ten good dishes to a messe and plenty of wine of all sorts Samuel Pepys, Lord Mayor s Banquet, 1663 JOIN A GUIDED TOUR Experience Guildhall s prestigious history on a tour that will take you to parts of the building not normally open to the public. See page 19 The Great Hall is the centrepiece of Guildhall, the City s only secular medieval building. There has been a guildhall or tax office here since at least the 13th century, with work beginning on the current building in 1411 to reflect the importance and prestige of London s ruling elite. The hall s cathedral-like space is impressive over 46 metres (150ft) long, 15 metres (50ft) wide and 27 metres (88ft) high. Underneath are London s largest medieval crypts. Light floods in from two enormous Gothic windows. The side windows are emblazoned with the names of mayors and the monograms of monarchs. Between the windows hang the banners of London s 12 Great Livery Companies. Statues celebrate Britain s national heroes including Admiral Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington and Sir Winston Churchill. The Great Hall has witnessed its share of drama. During the turmoil of the Reformation, peers, an archbishop and a queen were tried here for treason. It has been the setting for the pomp and circumstance of state and mayoral occasions since 1502 when Sir John Shaw held a feast. The feast has since become a traditional banquet, the first dinner hosted by any Lord Mayor, at which the Prime Minister delivers a keynote speech on world affairs. It s here that each year the City Corporation and the Liverymen elect and swear in the new Lord Mayor. 12 Coronation Luncheon, 1937 The Great Hall is the town hall of the City Corporation, where the Lord Mayor and Court of Common Council hold monthly formal meetings. As well as providing local government services, the City Corporation has a special role in supporting the City as a world leader in international finance and business services. It also owns and runs the Old Bailey, five bridges over the Thames, London s famous markets at Billingsgate and Smithfield, and looks after 11,000 acres of open space, including Hampstead Heath. WALK AMONG GIANTS These legendary giants, Gog and Magog, are guardians of the City. By the 15th century carved figures defended the gates of Guildhall and later processed in the Lord Mayor s Show, a custom which has recently been revived. Magog has a phoenix, the bird symbolising renewal, on his shield recalling that the giants 18th-century predecessors were destroyed in the Blitz. Guildhall Great Hall

ST LAWRENCE JEWRY 7 } I was...well pleased with the church it being a very fine church Diary of Samuel Pepys, 1665 St Lawrence Jewry is the official Church of the City of London Corporation. St Lawrence Jewry damaged during the Blitz Since the 12th century there have been at least three churches on the site, and St Lawrence s added the name Jewry to distinguish it from other churches dedicated to the same saint and next Guildhall, so that people knew exactly where it was. After the Great Fire of London, St Lawrence was one of the most impressive and expensive of the 51 City churches designed by Sir Christopher Wren. In 1940 it was extensively damaged during the Blitz. However, Wren s sumptuous barn with its gold leaf and FROM GIRDLERS... St Lawrence Jewry has a special relationship with the City of London s livery companies and is the chapel of 14 of the 110 companies in existence today. The companies were established over the centuries to protect the interests of trades and professions including the Loriners makers of spurs and harness fittings for horses. Today their role is largely charitable and ceremonial. Banners, candlesticks and furnishings throughout the church display their crests....to LORINERS chandeliers was rebuilt in 1957, with the design for the ceiling being taken directly from his original plans. One of the glories of St Lawrence is its glass, which, unusually, was virtually all designed by the same artist-craftsman. The two most famous windows are of the martyr Sir Thomas More, who was born nearby and lectured in the church as a young man. The other is located in the vestibule and is the only depiction of Wren in church glass. The eight tower bells, considered the finest peal in the City, were reduced to a quarter of their weight due to the intensity of the fire following the bombs of the Blitz. What metal remained was incorporated into new bells that were cast in 1957. The weathervane on top of the spire even features a replica of the fire bomb which so nearly destroyed the church. 14 15

Pipers City of London Model 8 THE CITY CENTRE } We shape our buildings; thereafter they shape us The City Centre is the place in which to learn about the Square Mile - the unsurpassed heritage of its built environment; its present offer as a world class financial and business centre; its unique collection of cultural institutions and its exciting future as a vibrant, forward-looking place. Winston Churchill The City Garden Home to the City of London s official architectural model of the Square Mile, this state of the art 1:500 scale interactive representation of buildings present and future allows a rare birds-eye view panorama detailing every existing building as well as those with planning permission granted for the next 10 years. MAPPING THE CITY The architectural model is the latest technique the City has used to map the area; the earliest dates back to eleven years after the destruction of the Great Fire of 1666. As part of the rebuilding process, Ogilby and Morgan produced an exquisitely detailed map of the Square Mile. It was the first to show buildings in plan rather than as bird s eye views, and across the 20 printed sheets, they noted every house. As such it provides a fascinating glimpse into the future of London s rapidly growing skyline as modern tall buildings stretch ever higher and historic monuments are retrofitted for 21st-century use. Developed over the last thirty years, the model is a unique example of the history of model-making from craftsmanship in wood to laser cutting and 3D printing. Featuring a series of exhibitions and installations, The City Centre documents the make-up of the City - its cultural life; the business community; its places and spaces; the way it is run today and its plans for the future. The City Gardens map and iphone app allow visitors to explore the hidden public spaces of the City from Blitz gardens to roof gardens, Wren Churchyards to private havens for City workers. 16 17

Finding your way: The Guildhall Plan Lifts ART GALLERY Toilets Learn more about the City of London s history at the Museum of London, 10 minutes away at 150 London Wall A3 3 A2 Shop Entrance to the Great Hall Entrance to the Guildhall Library and City of London Police Museum Main entrance to the Art Gallery, City of London Heritage Gallery and Roman Amphitheatre CITY OF LONDON POLICE MUSEUM EXHIBITION SPACE THE GUILDHALL LIBRARY ART GALLERY & THE HERITAGE GALLERY C CC CS CH C 4 C 5 4 C Entrance to the St Lawrence Jewry Entrance to the City Centre A Roman Amphitheatre C City of London Heritage Gallery (CH), Study Room (CS), Cloakroom (CC) and Undercroft Galleries A1 Exhibition Galleries THE CLOCKMAKERS MUSEUM THE GREAT HALL GUILDHALL YARD AMPHITHEATRE ARENA BELOW GROUND LEVEL G 1 2 3 2 1 A1 THE ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE A 6 G Ground Floor Gallery, Information & Shop A2 Main Gallery A3 Balcony Gallery 1 Stairs down to C 2 Stairs to A1 3 Stairs between G and A2 4 Stairs up to A1 5 Stairs down to A 6 Stairs up to C GROUND FLOOR ST LAWRENCE JEWRY What government is older than parliament? DISCOVER THE ANSWER AND MORE ON A GUILDHALL TOUR Experience Guildhall s prestigious and often surprising history on a Guildhall Tour that will take you to parts of the building that most visitors never see. Tours are led by a member of the City Guides, the official guides to the City of London. They are held on days when the City s Common Council meets so that visitors can stay on after the tour to experience democracy in action. City Guides also run weekly tours of the art treasures of the Mansion House and lead daily walks around the Square Mile. Private tours of the Guildhall are available on request. www.cityoflondonguides.com 18 19

Explore Guildhall Galleries All galleries are free and accessible to everyone. The Guildhall Art Gallery, Heritage Gallery, The City Centre and Guildhall Library have a changing programme of events and temporary exhibitions throughout the year some may attract an admission fee. Guildhall Art Gallery, London s Roman Amphitheatre and City of London Heritage Gallery www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/guildhallartgallery www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/amphitheatre www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/heritagegallery Open: Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12 noon-4pm Tue, Fri & Sat: enjoy 45-minute free tours of highlights at 12.15pm, 1.15pm, 2.15pm and 3.15pm Guildhall Great Hall www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/guildhall Open: Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm (all year); Sun 10am-4.30pm from May to September. Access subject to availability of Guildhall, which may close at short notice for functions and events. Please phone the number opposite to check. City of London Police Museum www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/policemuseum Open: Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm (Wed open till 7.30pm); Sat 10am-4pm Opens November 2016, see website for details St Lawrence Jewry www.stlawrencejewry.org.uk Open: Mon-Fri 8am-5pm Guildhall Library www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/guildhalllibrary Open: Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm (Wed open till 7.30pm); Sat 9.30am-5pm (Alternate weekends only. See website for details) The City Centre www.thecitycentre.london Open: Gallery Mon-Sat 10am-5pm Model Exhibition Fri-Sat 10am-5pm Phone us or check our website for details: 020 7332 3646 www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/guildhallgalleries Make the most of your visit to the City Walk the City Visitor Trail The Guildhall Galleries are part of the City Visitor Trail the easiest way to see the hidden treasures of the City while exploring on foot. Pick up a map from the City Information Centre (opposite St Paul s Cathedral) or download the app for iphone and Android. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/cvt Sign up to the eshot Receive monthly updates of what s on in the Square Mile by email by visiting: www.visitthecity.co.uk /visitthecity @visitthecity /visitthecity The City of London Corporation maintains a number of heritage sites across the capital for the benefit of London and the nation. They include Guildhall, Tower Bridge, the Monument, the Museum of London, Leadenhall Market, Guildhall Art Gallery, London s Roman Amphitheatre and London Metropolitan Archives. We also look after almost 11,000 acres (4,451 hectares) of green space, including Epping Forest, Hampstead Heath and Burnham Beeches. Many of these are provided at little or no cost to the public. The City Corporation is a uniquely diverse organisation that supports and promotes the City as the world leader in international finance and business services; provides high quality local services and policing for those working in, living in and visiting the City; and provides valued services beyond the Square Mile, including its role as one of the most significant arts sponsors in the UK and its support for the economic development of the surrounding boroughs. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk QUALITY ASSURED VISITOR ATTRACTION