JÚLIO TORCATO For autumn/winter 14/15, Júlio Torcato was inspired by retro uniforms and decadent aristocratic luxury, built on a concept of "urban tailoring". MATERIALS Pure wool, washed wool, silk brocade, cashmere, cotton and polyamide. COLOURS Brown, black, dark green, navy and royal blue. w. juliotorcato@gmail.com f. https://www.facebook.com/juliotorcato?fref=ts
LUÍS BUCHINHO UNTITLED A Illusion will be the key word of this new collection. Luis Buchinho, for this fall winter 2014-2015 edition let himself be carried into Georges Rousse s (painter and photograph), a non-literal approach to his work, played around ideas of distortion, occupation and creating new realities on existing ones. Real architectural construction, the fabrics mix up with the colors, building a unique whereas diverse piece. The black background will allow the accentuation of this work, which will travel between the second and the third dimension throughout the models. The construction of a silhouette within a silhouette. Loyal to its DNA, strong and affirmative women will be emphasized in this collection, which is at the genders crossroad. The expression palette will claim its modernism with a black and white basis under dusty pinks and blushes contrasting with bright pinks/blue. The fabric first and foremost comfortable, easy to wear will be declined with felted light wools, double faced tweeds, leathers, furs, heavy knits but also with printed pleats and fabric that was borrowed from the the masculine wardrobe, which help perfect the trompe l oeil effect. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Shoes by HELSAR; Jerseys by ATB LUÍS BUCHINHO ATELIER Rua José Falcão, 122 4050-315 Porto t. 222 012 776 f. 222 012 776 e. geral@luisbuchinho.pt w. www.luisbuchinho.pt
DANIELA BARROS DALKA Named "DALKA", this collection (fw2014-2015) presents a strong and austere silhouette, where geometry and cuts rigidity recall the chemistry and the connection between its elements. The technological materials contrast with the natural and noble fibres such as silk. Blocs of colour are flattened by printings that reflect the tridimensionality and microscopic vision; black and cobalt are illuminated by white. The silhouette evokes the energy of the character and the feminine look inspired in the historical women warriors, composed of several layers and androgynous lines. Structured and oversized coats are the key elements of Daniela Barros collection aesthetics. t. +351 932 014 761 e. dbarros.office@gmail.com w. http://danieladbarros.tumblr.com
HUGO COSTA (BLOOM) BUSHIDO This collection is inspired by "Bushido", the code of conduct and way of life of the Samurai. A concept that defines their attitude towards life and death, their relationship with the inner being and the nature that surrounds and involves them. On this assumption, "Bushido" is a "mobile" collection, with exaggerated and functional volumes represented in traditional materials that merge with technology. c. Hugo Costa t. +351 914007405 e. hc.hugocosta@gmail.com / info@hugocosta.co w. http://www.hugocosta.co/
ANABELA BALDAQUE 4 HORAS ANTES (4 HOURS BEFORE) A collection inspired by an attitude of "4 hours before". It is a challenge, for anyone who looks, wears, interprets and creates stories. This one is simple; it's 4 hours before we left the studio to be here for the presentation of the collection. But there is a silhouette that 4 hours beforehand decided to play another role. It s out there on the loose. MATERIALS A collection rich in textures, boucles, thick cloth, jacquard stitches. Lengthy furs with a pressed effect. Mousselines, silks. Hand-woven fabrics. COLOURS Ash grey, golden, wood green, yellows, metallic copper brown, black and pink. SILHOUETTE Broad and structured. Movements of freedom. KEY PIECE Coats. Unusual ways of opening, and versatile belts. Pockets of great proportions. ATELIER Padre Luís Cabral, nº1080, 1º andar, 4150-461 Porto Foz t. 93 405 62 64 22 617 02 71 STORE Padre Luís Cabral, nº1075, 4150-461 Porto Foz c. Cristina Alves t. (+351) 93 405 62 64 (+351) 22 617 29 14 e. Diogo Baldaque - diogobaldaque@anabelabaldaque.pt
ESTELITA MENDONÇA NAGARJUNA Empty things are born from empty things. In search of identity, we are confronted with the need for existence of the other and with the nullity of the individual by the uniformity of society. The expression packaging rises as a perspective of the future and as a momentary conceptual circumstance. We are wrappers waiting to be filled. We start from the idea of emptiness being a space, image, concept and feeling, to create compounded volumes, straight silhouettes and unexpected textures. The heat-modelling of plastic and technological fabrics allows us to visualize the void, reflecting the hyper-sensory suspension as a way of intuitive protection. The creation of empty volumes/spaces is assumed, associated with the image of nothingness, on the assumption that the void is the epitome of possibilities and options. SPECIAL THANKS Miguel Lomba, Miguel Flor, Isabel Branco, Simão Bolívar, André Covas, Mário Calisto, Carmo Osul, Têxtil Serzedelo, Eureka Shoes, Mónica Mota and Julian Castaño. c. Estelita Mendonça e. estelitamendonca@gmail.com w. http://estelitamendonca.tumblr.com/
CARLA PONTES (BLOOM) LEAF For the International Fashion Showcase 2014 exhibition, a project was born, which shows through a leaf my process of germination, where everything starts to bloom and from which the curves for each piece are born. It all starts in the curves of the mould, which before being manufactured already bring together several parts of the piece. The design of the piece becomes abstract. It is an open leaf that must be put together to make the volume that surrounds the human body. As a projectual development, in the autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection there was the will to continue to study the idea of taking leaves and turning them into pieces of clothing, working their lines and shapes on a human scale and not true to scale. And so "Leaf" was born, which is reflected in rounded volumes of bodies and sleeves, in the overlapping of "petals" in thin layers and in details of the neckline designs. In a contemporary setting of urban shades and sporting details, "Leaf" is defined by the light shades of crude colours, which without strength or definition lets in a dry pink and blue that reflects darkness. Three groups of shades unfold on cloth of felted or combed wool, in fine cotton shirting fabrics, rib details and fine jersey knits. There is also the design of a pattern that reflects the overlapping of tree-trunks developed into a quilted doublesided jacquard. e. carlapontes.design@gmail.com t. (+351) 933 188 527 w. carlapontesdesign.tumblr.com / www.facebook.com/carlapontesdesign
KATTY XIOMARA PEANUTS PLAYED BY KATTY XIOMARA It's impossible to deny the nostalgia and the emotional sway that the toys of our youth still have over us. Seeing or holding a particular toy can immediately transport you to the past. This year the brand has a new challenge, with a capsule collection called Peanuts Played by Katty Xiomara. ". The characters from Peanuts - Snoopy, Charlie Brown and the gang, playing spontaneously in duet with the main brand. Avoiding the obvious, we opted to use the expressions of the characters into graphic details and freehand drawings. We kept the nostalgia feeling while building up a kind vintage look subtly intertwined with the sporting classics of all time. INFOGRAPHIC Is an interpretation of graphic information used in our urban environment. More and more information is transmitted with the aid of colors and geometric patterns and that lead us to a perception of information more pleasant and quickly. Transferred for the clothing, revealing a collection of simple and purified contours with strategic use of color. The proportions are geometric but the garments send us always in the direction of its spontaneity. There is some asymmetry and linear cutouts. The component follow this same route in a contrast of lines and geometric figures. The basic colors are focused on mock white, on black, in midnight blue and caramel, strongly contrasted by a burnt yellow and a crimson red, which offer some surprise in the design of the collection. The result is elegant and urban, graphic and feminine. Katty Xiomara Atelier Rua da Boavista, 795 4400-150 Porto t. +351 220 133 784 e. info@kattyxiomara.com w. www.kattyxiomara.com
DIOGO MIRANDA This collection carries my identity as a designer. This identity is composed by my heritage and my learning, which is an open and continuous process. To said process I also add my own choices, which are part of my own culture and of what my legacy will be. Every season is the redefinition of that identity, presenting developments in my own definition. Women with a strong personality, stately in their posture and the way they walk, who stand out easily and naturally. Structured fabrics contrast with lighter textures and marked waistlines contrast with broad shapes, in a combination between a delicate and feminine silhouette of the '50s and the versatile woman of today. DIOGO MIRANDA PRAÇA DA REPUBLICA Nº60-62 4610-116 FELGUEIRAS PORTUGAL e. geral@diogomiranda.net / helenapereira@diogomiranda.net w. www.diogomiranda.net
MAFALDA FONSECA (BLOOM) W W for Waste... A dark and twisted vision, caused by all the debris from a heavy industrial environment. The entire process of creation, dumping, collection, processing and recycling of waste is reflected in the visual and graphic history of the collection. Once again this group of boys is surrounded and absorbed by a visual pollution that is only surmountable through transformation and enlightenment, by even brighter elements and reflectors that guide them at a given stage of the journey. This industrial image is represented by the colour palette, as well as the bet on rebuilt and altered technical materials. SUPPORT Modatex Porto; Sanbrusapatos; Pafil; Reflectil; NPM Unipessoal,Lda. e. mafaldareisfonseca@gmail.com t. +351 918391678
TM COLLECTION by Teresa Martins ALMA MATER FABRICS Cottons, wools (hand wovens), silks & jerseys. COLORS Portugal Portugal was the motto and the inspiration for this year winter collection Alma Mater - "The mother who feeds". The fatherland to be valued, exalted, glorified in the eyes of today and always. It was in the vast and infinitely rich Portuguese popular imagination's which inspiration was sought, re-interpreted in a contemporary vision, global and tenderly romantic. The research of traditional motifs of ceramics (Tiles) or jewellery (Filigrana), take new contours, in print or embroidery, which enrich simple cutting and loose parts. The contrast of the gold or silver brings out the dark ones, mostly the black of the fairer structured silhouettes. The nobility and comfort of the materials and shapes is designed for day-to-day versatility and lifestyle. Alma Mater, a collection of great traditional inspiration translated to a universal language that can be worn by women worldwide. Silver, gold, charcoal, black, líquen, moss, marone & white. ESTAMPADOS Viana, Lisboa, Porto, Braga, Évora, Coimbra, Filigrana, Texture, Polka Dots & Indian Grid BORDADOS Dhalia, Arabesk, Happy Heart & Lonely Heart. Rua das Padarias, 11 Armazém C, 2755-062 Alcabideche c. Fábia Campos t. +351 214 812 860 +351 919 453 702 e. fabia.campos@tmcollection.com info@tmcollection.com w. www.tmcollection.com http://tmcollection.blogspot.com
CARLOS COUTO (BLOOM) ECDYSIS Ecdysis, the expression that defines the moment where, in a growing stage, the snake abandons its old skin to make way for a new skin, is the name given to the AW/14-15 collection by Carlos Couto. Inspired by this metamorphosis, the Ecdysis collection features natural materials such as: leather printed with snake skin effect, structured silk satin and gross twills with luminescent effect. Architectural looks, purposely asymmetrical, join the printed skins, completing the graphic side of the collection. Ecdysis is presented as the metaphor of the designer s own evolution, being a creator who on each season lets go of the previous collection to become devoted to the new project which then begins to develop. However, this transitional phase is also reflected in the woman herself, who regenerates while progressively modernizing her look. Ecdysis is designed for women who are confident and proud of their journey, intending to assertively express, through their image, the position they reached in life and in society. c. Carlos Couto t. 913535583 e. carloscoutouy@gmail.com / carlosdocouto.tumblr.com
FÁTIMA LOPES AD NATURAM Nature as protection. How does it protect itself? How does ir defend us? Fatima Lopes F/W 14-15 collection Ad Naturam is inspired by nature itself, its forms, its materials, its colors. The silhouette is protected in pieces with rounded shapes reminiscent of the moss trees, bark and even armor insect, their cocoons. Strong and rigids, the pieces are structured and offer new volumes where feminity is protected and exarcebated at once. In earth and nude tones mixed with intense blue and black, dresses, skirts and pants are accented with green touchs, khaki, green water including the metallic green, unique color of the beetle. The materials are heavy, wool, cashmere or tartan play and overlap with the transparent muslin or voile. The woman turns into a creature sublimated in a cocoon of safety. FÁTIMA LOPES Rua da Atalaia, 36 1200-041 Lisboa t. +351 21 324 05 40 f. +351 21 324 05 48/59 e. fatimalopes.atelier@gmail.com w. www.fatimalopes.pt
BALLENTINA Ballentina is a design brand, 100% national, developed for the cosmopolitan and fashionable woman who focuses on comfort without becoming a fashion victim, despite being a fashion trender. It features unique digital prints in noble raw materials such as lyocel, wool blends, modal, viscose, silk and others, which inspire the themes Super Classics, Future Grunge and Folk Fantasy. Predominant use of the always elegant black & white, decorated and groomed with a soft pink palette and scale of greys. We follow the direction of Nautic Chic with compasses, rudders and shields as starter engine for the theme dedicated to the Portuguese discoveries. Navy blue, white and gold serve as an accessory palette. With two different lines and different targets (one from 25 to 35 years and another for over 40s), it is presented not only as a collection, but also as a lifestyle, where we find the pieces for everyday life which also accompany us in social events. c. Filomena Portela / Isabel Oliveira t. 914887030 / 918621545 e. Filomena.portela@valerius.pt / Isabel.oliveira@valerius.pt
CHEYENNE CHIC PUNK PUNK is back in a more sophisticated and less rebellious interpretation. The combination of black with metal and the hard rock inspiration gives rise to bold pieces. KEY PIECES Skinny jeans; polyesters with textures and abstract patterns; synthetic leather and shiny fibres; oversize blouses and jackets, contrasting with punk jeggings; Jackets with mixed leather, fur and new shiny structures. Lace and transparencies bring new strength to the pieces. COLOURS A mix of night colours mixed with silver glitter GUIDE SPIRIT Animals and countryside as the splendour of our imagination. Designs, shapes, memories of landscapes and colours seen in nature, in cheerful tones. KEY PIECES Light pieces, such as dresses, pleated and flowing pieces; Blazers with all-over prints; mixes of fur with knitting, for a warm touch; animals and flower prints; Denims with allover prints. Iodo Jeans Confecções, Lda Rua do Carreiro n.º 204 4755-276 Macieira de Rates Portugal t. 00351 252 956 169 e. geral@cheyenne.pt
CONCRETO by Helder Baptista GOLDEN NIGHT Concreto (Concrete) was inspired by the shine that breaks the black of night, radiating from metals like silver and gold and also precious stones with shades like blood red, burgundy, emerald green, silver shades and urban metals. This collection is, above all, versatile, with short trapezoidal shapes, wide and fluid. Capes and ponchos convey comfort and freedom of movement, contrasting with tight dresses. Very exquisite pieces for women who appreciate luxury. The materials are: wool, with blends of lycra and details in chenille, offering a velvety look in high and low relief, creating the illusion of 3D. Digital is also very present in the printed lycra, with images, which fill Concreto s days and nights with life and colour. All combined to convey an image of modernity, quality and innovative design, always with comfort as a priority reference. R. Alexandre Herculano, 55 - Apartado 23 3534-951 Mangualde t. +351 232 618 480 e. concreto@concreto.pt w. www.concreto.pt
MAD DRAGON SEEKER by Alexandre Cadilhe and Daniel Simões ECLECTIC AND WONDERFUL WORLD The 2014/15 Autumn/Winter Season brings together trends from around the world to join in a lively and eclectic mix of styles, materials and looks. The jacquards continue to take the lead, as well as the photographic prints, which maintain their dominance in tops and tunics. More than ever, the warm and engaging materials mark their presence. Denim remains firmly in position as an unavoidable basic garment and unfolds in shades of navy blue and black, occasionally presenting a technical look, worn and lived. Winter is required to be rich in the colours and blends of the designs, as if it were a globetrotter, bringing with it a story from a long journey throughout the wonderful world that is ours. Rua da Cachada, 237, 4755-017 Alvelos, Barcelos, Portugal t. 253834051 e. geral@mdscollection.com
TERESA ABRUNHOSA (BLOOM) In this autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection, the brand pursues a stark aesthetic identity, full of seductive female silhouettes. The new collection evokes the spirit of the '60s, full of dresses and short skirts. The careful chromatic composition in pink and salmon, mauve and burgundy and black and white, is juxtaposed with oversized jackets, bombers and pants with a male cut. The female forms are adorned with sexy cut-outs and metallic details. Sumptuous fabrics like velvet, chiffon, crepe, cupro and satin, seduce in a delicate visual game with unexpected strips and prints, derived from the stereoscopic threedimensionality. e. info.teresabrunhosa@gmail.com w. www.teresaabrunhosa.com / http://teresaabrunhosa.tumblr.com
DKODE by Aleksandar Protic AFTER UTOPIA It is fascinating to see how the utopian visionaries of the past resulted in something completely new, a kind of Decay vs. Futurism. The industrial environment of yesteryear, abandoned and obsolete, and the spoils of the great revolutions, now appear to be absorbed and transformed by nature. The machines that then moved gently and mechanically are now lifeless and rusty. It seems as though everything ends up like this. And when everything seems to be wrapped in inertia, behold, something new and better willfully shows up out of nowhere. Nature takes its course and takes charge of this renovation. A disconcerting spirit arises, as if the pinnacle of development and progress and utopia of bright minds reinvented itself to return to its origins. A life cycle that is not broken and that sets the mood for this new fall/winter 2014 collection by DKODE: "After Utopia". Mixing the old and new, giving vintage some new touches of modernity and a new utility to elements that until now had only one function, the autumn-winter collection 2014 by DKODE represents an edgy and trendy vision, without losing its roots, its heritage, the know-how and the touch of the past. The shadows of an abandoned industrial ambience are represented by finishings in degradé and wax polishings, adorned with a vintage touch. The colour palette ranges from dark shades and deep shades that are "illuminated" by strong reds and vibrant greens. The metallic from the zippers is ornamental. The natural skins are worked by hand to emphasize the rusticity of a touch that appeals to a contemporary and edgy sensibility. Comprising 24 models for men and 83 for women, the vintage spirit of DKODE for the upcoming autumn-winter 2014, is inspired by an industrial decay, revitalized by nature and by the creation and definition of a new urban style. Initiated in 2011, the collaboration between DKODE and ALEKSANDAR PROTIC resulted in six shoe models ALEKSANDAR PROTIC x DKODE and a capsule collection DKODE x ALEKSANDAR PROTIC, which is making a difference and drawing attention. The upcoming autumn-winter 2014 will be no exception. Once again, DKODE proudly presents two new lines and seven new models that comprise the capsule collection DKODE x ALEKSANDAR PROTIC : Dayton, Demi, Dakota, Savannah, Selena, Smyrna, Sadira. From catwalks around the world, fashion and shoes are side by side in a successful collection, acclaimed by critique and by all fans of DKODE and of the work of ALEKSANDAR PROTIC. TRIÂNGULO DAS BERMUDAS Produção, Assessoria e Consultoria c. Ivan Martins e. ivanmartins@triangulodasbermudas.pt w. www.triangulodasbermudas.pt
J.REINALDO The J.Reinaldo autumn winter 2014/15 collection is based primarily on permanent contrasts of shine/opaque, textured/smooth, light/dark. It is in this world that the opposites attract and merge into minimal and clean lines. The classics are reinvented at the flow of the stroke. The textures are predominantly imitation of snake and crocodile skin, which take the lead sometimes throughout the length of the shoe, and other times in small details of high refinement. e. info@jreinaldo.com t. +351 255 310 660 w. www.jreinaldo.com
NOBRAND HOBO COLLECTION The FW14/15 collection by Nobrand is inspired by the Hobo Lifestyle concept, thereby inhabiting the universe of the Neo-nomadic. Using the image of the HOBO as the focus of creativity, Nobrand transformed the idea of the typical vagrant into a new approach of the admittedly laid-back style, giving it a touch of class and originality. The "Hobo Collection" consists of shoes with a hidden level of elegance - garbage-esque but fashion-forward. Nobrand - Máximo Internacional Lugar da Longra - 4610 328 - Rande, Felgueiras e. info@nobrand.pt t. (+351) 255 340 400 w. www.nobrand.pt
SILVIA REBATTO ANDROGYNOUS BLUE In this trend, we have given prominence to the colour blue in its different shades and effects, combining and searching for an alternative to the colour black. We can see combinations with the colour black in different textures and materials, with graphite metal details. Inspired by the blue backgrounds of Southeast Asia, where the colour blue is associated with positive influences capable of warding off evil, this trend, traditionally associated with night, is also perfect for the day, in this new season. Boots and adapted blocks, wedges and rubber soles, which seek comfort in a concept that does not lose the true street wear, and combinations of sophisticated and exotic flavours, both reptilian and metal. GLAMOROUS PUNK We know that over the years this trend has grown different sub-styles. Regardless, its spirit has always been rebellious, controversial and against the rules. As a fashion trend, Punk has grown as part of a wider concept, joining other trends. Within this logic, we have adapted and integrated the biker and the street into Silvia Rebatto s look. Boots predominate, using accessories such as square and pyramidal rivets, buckles, padded chains and elastic parts - all of which were designed to match with jeans and shiny skin. COLOUR ATTRACTION With a palette of intense colours we intend to achieve an attractive and colourful look. Some daring contrasts are formed, broken up by the seriousness of the traditional dark colours of winter. Predominant use of reds, between orangey red and purple, which match with burgundy. Insertion of metal details and gold sconces, with the intention of evoking some interceptions. Autumnal fires produce a feast of colour with fiery red (the most attractive and cool one). This trend focuses mostly on urban comfortable shoes and boots with rubber soles. COLD DAY & NIGHT In this trend we have given prominence to leather, alluding to its most explicit meaning without disregarding the feeling of cold temperatures. We adapted this trend to different styles that coexist without contradictions. Thinking differently in urban areas every day, day and night, and more intelligently. More volume in furs. During the day, urban shoes, with ochre, coffee and earth, combine with natural hair. For the evening, more sophisticated and elegant combinations of hair and gold metal with black and silver detail and a glitter look. RUA PADRE PEREIRA DA COSTA, APARTADO 17 3721-904 SÃO ROQUE PORTUGAL e. andreia.silva@silviarebatto.com w. http://silviarebatto.com
CARLOS GIL WALTZ OF THE BIRDS In my horizon I see the beauty of the utter of a ock of birds. They share the space and peace that belongs to them. Dancing, showing their apparel andenchanting anyone who sees them. The rigor of the discipline of dance becomes fragile in contrast with the lightness of its silhouette, permitting the balance that culminates in the creation of excellence. Poetry in motion, that gives form to structured pieces together with more uid ones. For Fall-Winter 2014/15, Carlos Gil presents silhouettes where the waistline gains relevance and where metallic shades along with feathers and fur become the protagonists of this creator s particular ballet. The limit will be the artistry associated with beauty. ATELIER CARLOS GIL Avenida da Liberdade, nº 57 6230-398 Fundão t. 275 753 610 w. www.carlos-gil.com
CLÁUDIA GARRIDO (BLOOM) GHOSTMOTHERS This time my gaze was fixed only on the "GhostMothers", on the creepy" images of the precious children and their hidden mothers. More than a scary universe, I was interested in the shadow of his presence - the mother behind the son, the one who does everything: even hide behind a sheet for him to be immortalized in a picture. This look is revealed in a collection consisting of 15 coordinates where Knits arise, once again, as the star. Material and aesthetics merge in the technique, praising the quality of the raw materials. The remaining materials, colours and shapes are used to support the H line that drives this path. The primary raw material (that which composes the Knit), is thus accompanied by waterproof materials and sophisticated materials such as velvet, alpaca, cashmere and mohair. Here the technique also helps us to perpetuate. The jacquard knit and structured knit, in different ensembles, present to us this universe, involving us in a permanent moment. The colour palette appears as a reflection of the aesthetics present in the "GhostMothers". Black, grey and white are sprinkled by the oxide of time and by the pale pink of the faces of these protagonists, immortalized by their mothers. c. Cláudia Garrido t. +351 914225687 e. CG.CLAUDIAGARRIDO@GMAIL.COM w. http://cgclaudiagarrido.wordpress.com/
MEAM BY RICARDO PRETO Movement The actual vibrant world provides the inspiration that this collection be a reflection of the woman soul. A contemporaneous woman, cultured and healthy, attentive to the challenges of society, with the ambition of inspire and be inspired. Discreet and slim silhouette. Quality, sobriety and austerity in the fabrics and cuts. Wool blends, cotton, silk and modal are the elected materials, in colours like black, blue, green and white. MEAMSTYLE Lda. Rua Loteamento do Eirogo nº300 Lugar de Cabanos - Galegos Stª Maria 4750 461 Galegos Stª Maria Barcelos, Portugal t. (+351) 253 809 090 e. info@meamfashion.com
VICRI DANDY The Dandy personifies a man with a rigorous sense of style both elegant and daring. He s the perfect gentleman, always sharply dressed and mindful of the latest trends adapting and reinterpreting them to his own style. He values the aesthetic way of living and integrates it in his philosophy of life. This is the concept behind the inspiration for the VICRI s Fall/Winter 2014 Collection. The character was adapted to the modern age and the aesthetics were redefined to better represent the current Dandy Man and serve his needs. The silhouette is more rigid and formal, the patterns are more conservative following the classic sartorial rules. The materials, of course, were adjusted to the VICRI concept. Noble fabrics for the classic line and more textured and graphic prints for the casual line. The super high twisted wools and mixed wool/silk fabrics predominate. Padded details are used in surprising applications giving the Collection a unique look. Being a VICRI Collection the prints couldn t be missing and the approach was bolder than before. t. (+351) 252 920 996 e. info@vicri.com w. www.vicri.com
CATARINA SANTOS (BLOOM COMPETITION) SUBTLE CONFLICTS "Subtle Conflicts" is inspired by Suprematism and abstract painting. Suprematism, the Russian movement starring Kasimir Malevich, was influenced by the cubist style of artist Sonia Delaunay, who worked plastics and basic geometric shapes, built on overlays. The starting point for the creation of the coordinates is precisely the perception of the field with the space and the work on overlaps. The silhouette translates into pieces of clean geometric lines inspired by the work of Sonia Delaunay, combined with pieces of military look, more robust and rigid, inspired by the Russian uniforms of the 1 st world war. The colour palette is drawn from the universe of works by authors of the Russian movement. Dark and neutral shades contrast with nude, grey and primary red. Technological materials with a rubbery touch are coordinated with a soft, smooth wools and jersey. c. Catarina Santos e. ana-catarina_santos@hotmail.com t. 91 219 53 50
EDUARDO AMORIM (BLOOM) PROTECT ME Protect Me" focuses on the exploration of a specific piece of clothing - the parka - and its main features. It examines not only its structure and details, but also the symbolic significance associated with it. The parka, for its size and material, gives us a sense of protection. Taking this feeling into account, the silhouettes of the exteriors of "Protect Me" are engaging, bulky, padded and rigid-looking, turning it into elements that allow accentuating the contrast with the delicate interiors of the collection. Feminine pieces, ruffles and light and flowing fabrics are brought to the collection by the influence of Alice in Wonderland (not the story itself, but the young Alice, for whom the story was originally written). The dresses have a welltucked waist, but with a loose look. c. Eduardo Amorim e. Eduardo.pereiramorim@gmail.com t. 913762570
HAGGARD by ANTÓNIO VAZ SOARES (BLOOM) PAPER CUTS The Paper Cuts collection rose from the application of the paper-handling techniques most used in Product Design, specifically in Packaging Design. These techniques were developed for "fashion", to reinterpret key elements in the manufacture of clothing - sewing, tweezers, pleats, males and correcting. In this exercise, the main goal is to make the constituent supports of the pieces of clothing independent from any other physical element, to keep them together. For this reason, great attention was given to the form and its articulation with these techniques to demonstrate its relevance. e. haggardlag@gmail.com t. 968603334
JOÃO RÔLA (BLOOM) TIPE "Tipe" is inspired by the observation of a specific image. This image is composed of elements such as: paper and "Crepe scotch-tape". Those components are essential for the development and design of this collection, being interpreted through materials and graphics. The scotch-tape is the main element of this collection, not only for aesthetic reasons, but also in the symbolic aspect. As a shape, the scotch-tape arises in its state of post-use, i.e. the marks that it leaves on the surfaces on which it is glued, which give us the artwork by referring us to a sense of freedom. This freedom relates to the idea of women's liberation as a social being. "fresh" and minimalistic look. The "Tipe" woman is relaxed but sophisticated at the same time. She is an independent woman without prejudice or taboos. The woman arises in a very relaxed and androgynous fashion and this state is visible through an oversized silhouette and overlapping pieces with architectural layers. The materials in the collection range from the most rugged and masculine, to lighter and more female ones. Laminated leather, coated twill, crepe and technological knit make up this collection, giving it a c. João Rôla t. +351 914 436 882 e. j.rola @hotmail.com
MARTINHO GONÇALVES (BLOOM) MARBLE It appears cold, icy, solid. With no life or identity. We succumb to its beauty. It is an object, not a being. It is an image that communicates without speaking, that expresses without moving, that lives without breathing. It is, but it also was. Marble is transformation. "Marble" is inspired by the sculptural works of Kevin Francis Gray. The artist applies a technique that allows conveying the idea of transparency, from the marble. Shine is recurrent in his work, as well as the use of metallic materials. The collection addresses, through prints, silhouettes and textures, a whole neoclassical imagery, which is also present in the work of the artist. c. Martinho Gonçalves e. phillip.martinho@hotmail.com t. 919067111
PEDRO NETO (BLOOM CONCOURSE) Keith Arnatt's "self-burial" work is the concept chosen for this collection. His work consisted in burying himself on the ground, and for this collection was made the reverse process, meaning, removing the pieces from the ground. The silhouettes are straight, long and oversized giving them a polished and a dramatic touch. The colours are neutral with the mains focus on black and white, as a result of the concept itself. The fabrics are heavy and fluid, however, they have a noble and natural hint. The construction is well structured with laser cuts, fabric polishment and pleats. The main goal for this collection is based upon the idea of time evolution and the supplanting effects, but, as it is removed from the ground it becomes free. c. Pedro Neto e. pedronetopreira@gmail.com t. 914719997
TERESA CARVALHEIRA (BLOOM) TO PRESERVE Maintenance of procedural and formal values found in previous research. The will and incentive to continue are manifested in the relationship between form/function, proposing to meet the requirements of comfort, protection, mobility, endurance, adaptability and inclusion. The intervention in the materials, through manual dyeing with betadine, iodine tincture and turmeric, is presented as a technique to control their look and colour, preserving a more intuitive process and the designer/object connection. The collection also positions itself in a "genderless" dimension, preserving inclusion. The product is designed for a human body at its most abstract dimension, preserving similarities. e. teresacarvalheira_28@hotmail.com t. +351 969545768
LION OF PORCHES LION OF PORCHES offers the traditional Lion line combined with a british lifestyle, proposing a casualwear of an urban and relaxed nature. British-ispired motifs, flags and emblems appear on vichy fabrics, tartans, corduroys, technical fabrics and bi-materials. The chosen colours are ice, grey, navy and red. Of a heraldic and exquisite nature, we have the Colourful Hunting line, heavily based on elements and shades form hunting. An inspiration for the weekend or time spent outdoors. Stylish proposals with traditional plaids, cashmere, thick/structured knits and leather applications in green, khaki and orange shades. At the end we have the City line, with a trendy and sophisticated casualwear with thoughtful details and pieces in silk, cloth and cashmere knits, yielding a fluid and comfortable collection. Refined colours like black with navy, pink, burgundy and ice, stand out in this line. LION OF PORCHES - Têxtil Cães de Pedra, S.A. Apartado 235, 4801-911 Guimarães, Portugal PRESS AND PUBLIC RELATIONS c. Marisa Queirós e. marisaqueiros@lionofporches.pt t. +351 253 439 630 SHOWPRESS c. Inês Padinha t. +351 213 152 375 e. inespadinha@showpress.pt
DIELMAR Returning to its origins, DIELMAR goes back to the beginning, to the golden age of the 60's, where the importance of being well dressed was pivotal for all men. This decade sees the start of the brand and it's to this time that we go back to seek inspiration for the A/W 2014 collection. The 60's was a time of revolutions and change of habits but also a time of elegance and innovation. The movie The Thomas Crown Affair, starring Steve Mcqueen, the utmost influence in style, highlights the art of being well dressed, the art of seduction and masculinity. Taking this movie as a script, DIELMAR rewrites the story of this decade, bringing it to date and encouraging the modern man to dress with the poise and creativity of other times, inspired by its ambiance and wardrobe, and creating a noble plot. Sociedade Industrial de Confeções DIELMAR, SA Largo do Chafariz Velho - Ap. 8, 6006-909 Alcains, Portugal c. Tó Simões, designer de Moda t. (+351) 272 900 900 m. (+351) 927 347 677 w. www.dielmar.pt
KLAR (BLOOM) Experimental sport, continuation of the exploration of the brand identity as a statement or visual signature. e.info@k-l-a-r.com w.http://k-l-a-r.com
MIGUEL VIEIRA A WINTER NIGHT It s a Winter night in the northern hemisphere. With it came the cold, the rain and the endless nights. You can hear the silence. It has been a long time since the birds flew south. Already leafless, the trees finally fall asleep. There is a brief pause in the cycle of life, that insists on continuing. Also for Us this dark, cold night is a synonym of change. Of adaptation. We do more than that. We dress up in the Winter colors and textures remaining true to our essence. Beauty, distinction, elegance and power of seduction. COLORS Caviar black; twilight blue; mirage grey; and storm grey. SILHOUETTE Clean and pure look. In tubular shapes or marked waistlines. MATERIALS Wool and Jacquard fabrics. DETAILS Tuxedo inspired pieces; turtlenecks; oversized pieces; height games and lowered shoulders. ACCESSORIES High heels and boots. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Xana Guerra (music) and Collove. Miguel Vieira, I. C. Moda, lda. Rua Alexandre Herculano, n.º 308 3701-911 S. João da Madeira -Portugal t. 256 833 923 e. geral@miguelvieira.pt w. www.miguelvieira.pt