Resizing a Pair of Pinched Roses. By PK BootMaker After Lisa Sorrell
Another rare opportunity Mostly in my career of repair service, I ve been asked to do the mundane; heels and soles replaced, mending personal leather items, repairing plastic purse handles, really a variety of things. But every once in awhile I m asked to do something very special and significant for the person coming to me and asking if it s even possible. Sometimes I have to dig really deep to figure out just how I could accomplish the request. For the third time now in 11 years I ve been asked to resize a pair of boots that have special meaning to the customer. I ve done minor adjustments to size, lots of stretching, or taking it in a bit here or there. But when it s several sizes it requires a bootmakers approach. The first one of these I did was for an elderly women whose husband had recently passed and when she found them under the bed, wanted to wear them. It felt very special to me to do this for her. The second pair was documented and shared in this same format as Resizing a Pair of Horn Back Alligator Boots. Those were for a bride to wear down the aisle in lieu of her fathers passing. Another very special job. Now I present my third chance to similarly perform
The back story- I received an email that said; I have a pair of boots that need relasting to fit me. My story is not as romantic as the bride s; I fell in love with the shaped rose boots in Jennifer June s book and was thrilled to find a pair by Lisa Sorrell on Ebay. Unfortunately, I made a mistake; they are too big, a man s 9M rather than a woman s 9B. Due to your article, I understand that relasting is not an easy process, but I hope you would consider undertaking the process on these boots.
My reply was: I'm familiar with the pinched rose technique you're referring to featured in Jennifer's book. They are striking. Really, all of Lisa Sorrell s boots make me drool. I have to ask, have you made your request to Lisa herself? She might prefer to do it herself, you know. As I am acquainted with her, I would at least want her to know I was doing the resize, if that was the choice you made. I guess it's a matter of professional respect. But I would love to do it for you! It would require me measuring you, and making up a last to fit you. It's not really possible to price it without examining it, but I will say it ain t cheap! You've already seen what is involved. Doing such a job on a hand made boot could feasibly be way more difficult, or in the case of Lisa's work, educational. Please feel free to call me to set up an appointment. My number is 928 442-1213.
So I had a meeting with the customer, and measured her feet as if I were going to make a bespoke pair of boots for her. Of course, upon examination the boots looked as though they would be a good candidate for the trauma of the procedure. Way better actually, than any other I ve ever done, as these are handmade of very good quality materials and techniques. My procedure follows:
The Pair in Question
It can take several hours sometimes, to bring the critical circumferences up to the data obtained from the foot. The Last Comes First (we always say that) Here the insole is being pre-shaped to fit the contours of the last.
The essence of bespoke. This is not standard. Every pair is unique to that customer. Here the insole of sculpted, channeled, and ready for the next step, lasting. But next the boot breakdown.
Breakdown This requires special attention to maintain as much of the original shape as possible. The rubber heel is pulled first followed by the rest of the heel base. For such a quality boot as this, I prefer to grind the sole loose, rather than take a knife to it.
Further Breakdown The sole in the classic tradition, is pegged on. It s not so easy to remove a sole of a boot made this way. The insole must be entirely removed and all pegs are carefully extracted.
Stage one complete. Here you see all the parts removed up to this stage. Obviously both boots must get the same treatment.
Picking out each and every stitch from the original assembly is very important to my process. It is the only way I can approach the job with the refinement necessary for the boot to give no clue to the procedure it undergoes.
The bell cut is wider in my approach for resizing so as to straddle the break of the boot to reveal how much reduction is required in the new fit. Here the trim measure for this fit is about ¼. When removed from all four sides, front and back, that s an inch I had to reduce the throat.
That same ¼ will be moved from the back panel as well.
Here not only must that ¼ be removed, but the counter cover must be turned back and the counter itself skived along the edge for the seam to lay smoothly after stitching.
Not putting them all back together begins with the side seam welt. Reassembly First the quarter junction is stabilized so the four corners line up.
This picture shows the side seams closed and the boots turned right side out. I d have to do it as a video for you to get a feel of this process. But alas At this point I usually would attach the pull straps, but in my excitement, I proceeded to lasting.
Lasted The boots dry on the last for several days, so that they retain the new shape and size. I ve just propped them up on bases to see how they look. I like em!
For the welt I cut, groove and bevel for myself from horsehide, verses using poorer quality manufactured welt. The leather will stand up to shorter and tighter stitches. Here the boot is hand inseamed and laced in the shank. You can just barely see the nylon bristle braided onto the waxed and twisted taw of the thread. This makes for a very tight seam.
Next the shank is laced into place. This is very important for a sturdy shank area in a boot. Here the shank cover and forepart filler give an even surface to which the sole will now be applied.
And here is the sole waiting to be attached. The black around the edge is to give color where it would be otherwise difficult to reach once the sole is on. Then the soles will get a tight row of brass clinching nails and a row of pegs. Here in Arizona, where this customer lives, wood pegs alone can shrink and come loose. A row of brass nails will keep the shanks stable should this occur.
As I ve said, I get excited once I get going, and forget to photograph some steps. But here the finished boots on the right, are compared to the boots as they were to begin with. Notice the slimmer waist, and throat. Much more feminine, I think.
Since I ve been presenting these processes on resizing boots, I have gotten several requests about enlarging boots, as in adding to them to make them bigger. Boots can be stretched with the proper equipment, but more extensive things I ve played with in the past, have been unsuccessful. But I do believe there are times it can be done. However, as with reducing the size, not every boot is a good candidate for such major overhaul. I won t say it s not possible, however it is much more complicated to add to a negative space, than it is to reduce it. And, as with the size reductions, I would no doubt have to take measurements of the feet involved as well as closely examine the boots. If you think your needs fit in the boundaries outlined, I invite you to call and discuss your needs with me. With Regards, Paul 928 442-1213