The Makers Customized Men Model Manual The Makers Customized Version 6-11-2016 1
Full option models 2
Full option jackets Model Paris Slim silhouette Higher armhole Soft Pagode shoulder Small sleeve-head Model Parigi As model Paris Lower shoulder point Softer shoulder-padding Softer chest-piece Model Daniel Athletic silhouette Normal armhole Round shoulder Open sleeve-head Model Divare 2012 Business silhouette Spacious armhole Straight shoulder Open sleeve-head Size 50 Waist closed Sleeve length 98,0 cm 66,0 cm Size 50 Waist closed Sleeve length 98,0 cm 66,0 cm Size 50 Waist closed Sleeve length 104,0 cm 66,0 cm Size 50 Waist closed Sleeve length 105 cm 64,5 cm Note; The Parigi can be measured by using your Paris fitting garments. The shoulder point of the Parigi is 1 cm lower than the Paris due to a thinner shoulder-padding 3
The full option trousers Model Brad Normal rise, plain front Slim leg Model Loek Low rise, plain front, Straight leg Model Mike High rise, plain front Straight leg 4
The jacket options 5
Closure options Single breasted 1 button Single breasted 2 button Single breasted 2 ½ button Single breasted 3 button Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Available for; Paris Daniel Divare 6
Closure options Double breasted 6 on 2 button Peak lapel Double breasted 4 on 2 button Peak lapel Double breasted 6 on 2 button Notch lapel Double breasted 4 on 2 button Notch lapel Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Please note; The 6 on 2 button version is not possible with patch breast pocket Please note; The 6 on 2 button version is not possible with patch breast pocket 7
Lapel options; notch lapel model Paris Small notch lapel Paris Lapel 5,0 cm for size 50 Long collar Standard notch Available for; Paris Standard notch lapel Paris Lapel 7,0 cm for size 50 Long collar Standard notch Available for; Paris Standard on Paris fitting garments 8
Lapel options; notch lapel model Daniel Medium notch lapel Daniel Lapel 7,0 cm Normal collar Standard notch Available for; Daniel Standard notch lapel Daniel Lapel 8,5 cm Normal collar Standard notch Available for; Daniel Standard for Daniel fitting garments 9
Lapel options; peak lapel model Paris, Daniel, Divare Peak lapel Medium Peak lapel 7,0 cm For size 50 Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Peak lapel Large Peak lapel 9,0 cm For size 50 Available for; Paris Daniel Divare 10
Lapel options; shawl lapel model Paris, Daniel, Divare Traditional shawl lapel Curved bottom Available for; Paris Daniel Divare Fancy shawl lapel Straight bottom Available for; Paris Daniel Divare 11
Lapel options; contrast collar & lapel Contrast collar and stand Contrast lapel Contrast shawl collar Surcharge Velvet Silk Ottoman silk 2,50 euro 5,00 euro 7,50 euro Surcharge Velvet Silk Ottoman silk 2,50 euro 5,00 euro 7,50 euro Please note; For contrast shawl lapel please select both collar & lapel in the order tool Example; For a jacket with velvet contrast for the collar, lapel and pocket flaps the surcharge will be 3 x 2,50 = 7,50 euro. 12
Lapel options; lapel piping Lapel piping Only available for notch lapels This option has a surcharge Please note; The piping option can only be used for worsted fabrics and not for flannels, moleskins, velvets and corduroys 13
Shoulder options Paris Soft Soft shoulder padding Inserted sleeve-head 1/2 armhole with AMF Parigi Soft Soft shoulder padding Inserted sleeve-head 1/2 armhole with AMF Daniel Soft Soft shoulder padding Inserted sleeve-head 1/2 armhole with AMF Divare Soft Soft shoulder padding Inserted sleeve-head 1/2 armhole with AMF Surcharge Surcharge Surcharge Surcharge Please note; To construct the soft shoulder we fold the armhole-seam inside the armhole. This means that the total armhole perimeter is reduced by +/- 1cm and the jacket can feel tighter in the armhole 14
Side pockets Medium flap pockets Double jetted Flap 50mm Round corners Standard on Daniel and Paris fitting garments Small flap pockets Double jetted Flap 40mm Round corners Safari flap pocket Button closure No jets Flap 80mm Note; not in combination with ticket pocket 15
Side pockets Medium slanted flap pockets Double jetted Flap 50mm Rounded corners Small slanted flap pockets Double jetted Flap 40mm Rounded corners Straight jetted pockets Double jetted Slanted jetted pockets Double jetted Standard on Daniel and Paris fitting garments 16
Ticket pockets Medium ticket pocket Slanted Small ticket pocket Slanted Jetted ticket pocket Straigth Jetted ticket pocket Slanted 17
Contrast pockets Contrast flap pocket Pockets jets in shell fabric Contrast ticket pocket flap Pockets jets in shell fabric Contrast Jetted pockets Contrast Jetted ticket pocket Please note; This option has a surcharge The combination of both flaps and jets in contrast is not possible For a jacket with velvet contrast for the collar, lapel and pocket flaps the surcharge will be 3 x 2,50 = 7,50 euro. 18
Ticket pockets ; Medium ticket pocket Straight ; Small ticket pockets Straight 19
2; Patch pockets Round patch pockets Square patch pockets Tulip patch pockets Please note; Patch breast pocket in combination with a double breasted 6 on 2 button closing is not possible due to lack of space, The fantasy buttons will not be attached and the jacket will instead be produced with a 4 on 2 button closing 20
3; Chest pockets Large welted pocket 2,7 cm Medium welted pocket 2,2 cm Small welted pocket 1,5 cm Smiley pocket 2,5 cm Standard Daniel & Divare Standard for Paris & Parigi Standard for Balwin 21
Vent options ; No vents ; Back vent ; Side vents 22
Vent heights High vents +/- 26 cm for size 50 Medium vents +/- 21 cm for size 50 Short vents +/- 15 cm for size 50 Please note; The maximum vent height can not be higher than 3cm under the waistline Please take client hip width in to consideration, example if the consumer has big hips are short vents are not recommended 23
Back options Hunting back 24
AMF example AMF options A1 Standard AMF for; collar, lapel, front, flap pockets AMF is only used tone in tone No Surcharge A5 Full AMF for; collar, lapel, front, chest darts, flap pockets, sleeve cuffs, center back seam AMF is only used tone in ton Surcharge 25
Colombia & monogram option Embroidery example Colombia Monogram Interior Monogram Two lines and 23 characters per line Position 2 cm above cigarette pocket Colombia stitching No surcharge No surcharge 26
Interior options Standard interior in one color Inside jets, triangle and sous bras in color A 4 color interior design Inside jets, triangle and sous bras in color C No surcharge Surcharge 27
Interior options Standard interior 1/1 lined Standard interior with tongue ½ lined interior Not possible in combination with extra pocket (see page 29) No surcharge No surcharge Surcharge 28
Interior options C: The Makers Customized ; Extra pocket No surcharge ; Sous bras, underarm pads (in lining material) No surcharge Not available in combination with half lined 29
Button options -- Standard cuff buttons Kissing buttons All button holes open All button holes in one color -- Standard cuff buttons Kissing buttons All button holes open All button holes tone in tone except Hem button hole + lapel button hole in contrast No Surcharge No Surcharge 30
Button options -- Tone in tone sleeve buttonholes -- Contrast sleeve buttonholes No Surcharge No Surcharge 31
Cuff button options -- 1 cuff button -- 2 cuff button touching -- 3 cuff button touching -- 4 cuff button touching -- 5 cuff button touching No Surcharge No Surcharge No Surcharge No Surcharge No Surcharge 32
Cuff button options -- 2 cuff button kissing -- 3 cuff button kissing -- 4 cuff button kissing -- 5 cuff button kissing No Surcharge No Surcharge No Surcharge No Surcharge Please note; For thick, metal and pick pack buttons we recommend touching buttons 33
AMF example Saddle stitch example Pick pack button options Pick pack buttons in lapel silk Surcharge -- Pick pack buttons in shell fabric Surcharge -- Please note; You won t find Pick pack buttons in the box but they will be available in the ordertool. For pick pack buttons we recommend not to use kissing buttons 34
Under-collar options C: The Makers Customized -- Plain felt under collar -- Plain felt under collar with embroidery Max 20 characters No Surcharge This option has a surcharge 35
Under-collar options F00426 Under-collar Just Married Felt in white Embroidery in gold Surcharge F00427 Under-collar Cupido Felt in white Embroidery in gold Surcharge 36
The trouser options 37
Trouser front options Flat front 1 pleat 2 pleats 38
Trouser hip pocket options Slanted pockets Cavaliere pockets 39
Trouser hip pockets ; Jetted hip pockets ; Double flap hip pocket 40
Trouser hem finish options Without turn-up With turn-up 3 cm 4 cm 5 cm 6 cm Unfinished 41
Trouser hem finish options Slanted hem finish Front standard 1 cm up from back Please note; We recommend tone in tone Columbia stitching. 42
9; Trouser Columbia ; Trouser Columbia Columbia for side-seam & side-pockets Please note; We recommend tone in tone Columbia stitching Columbia stitching is not possible in combination with silk ribbon (See page 46) 43
Trouser waistband options Belt loops No belt loops No surcharge No surcharge 44
Trouser waistband options Side adjuster with tunnel No belt loops No surcharge Side adjuster with buckle No belt loops No surcharge 45
Trouser Tuxedo option Silk ribbon, Surcharge Silk waistband Surcharge Please note; Silk ribbon is not possible in combination with Columbia stitch We do not recommend a silk waistband with side adjuster and belt loops 46
Trouser front closure options Button waistband closure Zip fly Blind waistband closure 2 x hook and eye Zip fly Button waistband closure Button fly Blind waistband closure 2 x hook and eye Button fly No surcharge No surcharge No surcharge No surcharge 47
Trouser interior options Waistband without dinner vent Waistband with dinner vent No surcharge No surcharge Please note; We do not recommend a side adjuster with a dinner vent. 48
Trouser interior options C: The Makers Customized Waistband without brace buttons Waistband with brace buttons No surcharge No surcharge 49
Trouser interior options C: The Makers Customized Luxurious interior made of one pocketing design and a fancy waistband Surcharge Mixed interior made of 2 different pocketing designs and a fancy waistband Surcharge 50
Waistcoats 51
The full option waistcoats Measuring waistcoat model Spencer. Please note; model Spencer is a stand alone waistcoat model and can be used for all blocks. We advice you to buy a size-set in model Spencer in order to make the best fit alterations. For the design options we give you the following basic sizes all measured from the top of the back CB is the length measured from the top of the back till the bottom-hem of the back FL is the length measured from the top of the back till the bottom-hem of the front VL is the length measured from the top of the back till the closure of the front. Mentioned sizes for size 50 52
The full option waistcoats C: The Makers Customized ; Model: Spencer Standard SB waistcoat CB 60 cm FL 71 cm VL 30 cm SB 4-button Side seam vents ; Model: Spencer Standard SB waistcoat CB 60 cm FL 71 cm VL 35 cm SB 5-button Side seam vents ; Model: Spencer Standard SB waistcoat CB 60 cm FL 71 cm VL 40 cm SB 6-button Side seam vents 53
The full option waistcoats C: The Makers Customized ; Model: Spencer Standard DB waistcoat CB 60 cm FL 68 VL 39 SB 4-button Side seam vents ; Model: Spencer Standard DB waistcoat CB 60 cm FL 68 VL 33 SB 6-button Side seam vents 54
Waistcoats; options C: The Makers Customized ; Two welt pockets ; Two jet pockets ; Lining back Lining strap ; Fabric back Fabric strap This option has a surcharge 55
Waistcoat back options ; Lining back Back in lining material and interior in viscose. Surcharge ; Contrast back Back in contrast material and interior in viscose. Surcharge 56
Pre-designed waistcoats ; CG00165 Model: Spencer CB 60 cm FL 65 cm VL 29 cm 6 button SB waistcoat 4 welt pockets Fabric back Fabric strap ; CG00166 Model: Spencer CB 60 cm FL 65 cm VL 29 cm 6 button SB waistcoat Notch lapel, 2 x welt pockets Fabric back Fabric strap ; CG00167 Model: Spencer CB 60 cm FL 64 cm VL 43 cm 3 button SB tail waistcoat 2x jetted pockets Lining back Surcharge Surcharge Surcharge 57
Pre-designed waistcoats ; CG00534 Model: Spencer Center back 61 cm Front 67 cm V 29 cm DB waistcoat Shawl lapel 2x flap pockets Lining back Surcharge 58
The pre-designed models 59
Model Daniel; pre designed CM00327 Morning coat Surcharge CM00393 Dirigento Surcharge Note; These models are only available in a fused make and in plain fabrics. 60
Model Balwin; Pre-designed : CV 00013 Model: Balwin patch pockets SB 2-button 9,5 cm notch lapel with smiley chest pocket Patched pockets, side vents, shirt sleeve-head, unlined, sleeve lining Note; This model has no chest piece and heavier fabrics are needed to obtain it s form. Due to the English seam construction and the unlined make size alterations have a bigger tolerance ( +/- 1 cm on half waist ). This model has a shell fabric under-collar so no felt under-collar option. 61
Model Balwin; Pre-designed C: The Makers Customized : CV 00510 Model: Balwin flap pockets SB 2-button 9,5 cm notch lapel with smiley chest pocket Flap pockets, side vents, shirt sleeve-head, unlined, ½ lined Note; This model has no chest piece and heavier fabrics are needed to obtain it s form. Due to the English seam construction and the unlined make size alterations have a bigger tolerance ( +/- 1 cm on half waist ). This model has a shell fabric under-collar so no felt under-collar option. 62
Model Richard ; SB 3 button notch lapel 4 sleeve buttons Felt under collar Size 50 Back length 100 cm Waist closed 104 cm Sleeve length 67 cm Notch lapel 8 cm Back vent 42 cm Fabric consumption - ; SB 3 button peak lapel 4 sleeve buttons Felt under collar Size 50 Back length 100 cm Waist closed 104 cm Sleeve length 67 cm Peak lapel 9 cm Back vent 42 cm Fabric consumption - 63
Model Richard; pocket options ; Straight jetted pockets with flap ; Straight jetted pockets with flap & jetted ticket pocket with flap ; Slanted jetted pockets with flap ; Slanted jetted pockets with flap & jetted ticket pocket with flap 64
Model Richard; pocket options ; Welt pockets 65
Model Richard; contrast options ; Contrast collar Surcharge ; Contrast flap pockets Surcharge ; Contrast flap and ticket pockets Surcharge 66
Model Richard DB ; Pre-designed ; CM00486 Richard DB DB 6 button peak lapel 4 sleeve buttons Felt under collar Size 50 Back length 100 cm Waist closed 104 cm Sleeve length 67 cm Peak lapel 11 cm Back vent 42 cm Fabric consumption 67
Model Richard ; Pre-designed ; CM00487 Model Ron Covert coat Fit as model Richard Back length 100 cm Notch lapel 9 cm for size 50 Contrast collar 4 top stitching on cuff and hem 3 button fly closure Straight jetted flap pockets with ticket pocket Back vent 42 cm Fabric consumption - Surcharge 68
Model Richard ; Pre-designed ; CM00484 Model Ransley Ulster coat Fit as model Richard Back length 100 cm DB 8 buttons Stormtab Collar stand with eye and hook Patch pockets with flaps over stitched Back strap with buttons Removable shoulder epaulet Normal back vent ; CM00485 Model Reeve Peacoat Fit as model Richard Back length 85 cm DB 8 buttons Stormtab Collar stand with eye and hook Welted pockets over stitched Back strap with buttons Removable shoulder epaulet Normal back vent Fabric consumption - Surcharge Fabric consumption - Surcharge 69