WWDMAGIC A SUPPLEMENT TO WWD INSIDE VENDORS VALUE- ADDED STRATEGIES PREMIUM DOUBLES SIZE ECOLLECTION S GREEN GROWTH azure thing Kick off the spring season with a pop of color and plenty of Kick off the spring season with a pop of color and plenty of embellishment, giving a fresh take to classic shapes.
CHIC SENSUALITY TRAVEL & LEISURE 2 LEXINGTON AVENUE, NEW YORK NY 10010 PHONE 212 920 3300 FOR RESERVATIONS CALL 866 784 1300 / 212 475 4320 OR VISIT WWW.GRAMERCYPARKHOTEL.COM
Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports Dianne M. Pogoda Special Sections Editor Michael Agosta Senior Fashion Editor, Sportswear Kim Friday West Coast Market Editor Leila Baboi Fashion Assistants: Tanya Brown, Leah Buchsbaum, Michael Flores, Kim Kajohn, Laugharn Pierose and Mark Weyland COVER PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: NIKI CLOYD/INDUSTRY; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI; THIS PAGE: PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: ALLA/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI Elan s rayon and Lycra spandex jumpsuit. Dorfman Pacific hat; Zoe and Sage necklace; Charles David sandals. on the cover Mac & Jac s cotton dress. inside 4 SHOW BUSINESS: Value-added services attract attendees. 6 SWIMWEAR: Vendors offer standout looks at affordable prices. 8 CONTEMPORARY/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY: Top trends include bold colors and novelty styles. 10 JUNIORS: Embellishment headlines spring fashions. 12 PREMIUM: The section doubles its exhibitor count this market. 13 ECOLLECTION: Green vendors look for increased business. 14 WOMEN S SPORTSWEAR/DRESSES: Unique takes on classic looks draw interest. Plus, White features better and bridge resources. 15 ACCESSORIES: Multitasking merch provides lots of flexibility. 16 SHOES: Spring footwear goes heavy on the details. 17 MAGIC KIDS: Children s wear vendors offer parents more for their money. 18 CALENDAR: The order of events at the MAGIC Marketplace. Group Art Director Andrew Flynn Associate Art Directors Amy LoMacchio Sharon Ber Designer Courtney Mitchell Junior Designer Eric Perry Art Assistant Tyler Resty Copy Chief Peter Sadera Deputy Copy Chief Maureen Morrison Senior Copy Editor Lisa Kelly Copy Editors Adam Perkowsky Kim Romagnuolo Sarah Protzman Publisher Christine Guilfoyle Executive Director/Innerwear/Legwear/Textile Joel Fertel Account Director Janine Marks Account Director Tracy Hadel Executive Director of International Fashion Brett Mitchell West Coast Director Ron Troxell Associate Production Manager Jill Breiner WWDMAGIC 3
SHOW BUSINESS a full slate MAGIC offers value-added services to attract buyers and vendors in a tough market. By Marcy Medina THE MAGIC MARKETPLACE IS GEARED TO ENHANCE its women s offerings when the show unspools Aug. 31 to Sept. 2 in Las Vegas. The focus is on what s new and exciting and what s the best way to get customers back in stores, said Chris DeMoulin, president of MAGIC International and executive vice president of the Advanstar Fashion Group. We expect to have a bigger, better and more successful show in August. There s been a constant dialogue with exhibitors and retailers to find out what they are trying to accomplish. The customer seems to be adapting to working in a different economic environment. This is about people being more aggressive and trying to position themselves in the best possible place. With travel budgets down and customers looking to get the most out of a single trip, the intensity level seems to be up, especially with the show condensed into three days. We were encouraged both by vendors retooling strategies and buyers really coming to do business, DeMoulin said, noting that, while individual retailers may be opting to send fewer buyers, more stores are coming. MAGIC s enhanced offerings include more matchmaking between exhibitors and retailers, more informal networking opportunities and more specialized staff dedicated to building brand relationships within each category. Among the format changes implemented in February were bringing the Accessories show to the Main Hall within WWDMAGIC and the introduction of Premium at MAGIC in both the women s and men s sections. Premium on the women s side will feature premium denim labels such as Buffalo Jeans and Divine Rights of Denim (where spokesmodel Audrina Partridge is scheduled to make an appearance), and contemporary sportswear labels such as Yvette Mandell and OmniPeace, a licensed brand that sells in stores like Kitson in Los Angeles. I wanted to come to MAGIC to show the brand as a full collection instead of just a licensing company with a lot of different licenses, said OmniPeace founder Mary Fanaro, a first-time exhibitor who has attended the show as a guest. The humanitarian fashion brand, which donates a portion of its proceeds to various charities, partners with accessories and apparel companies such as Love From Australia and Signorelli to produce items. Nearly a quarter to a third of exhibitors will be brands new to the market, such as Seal Beach, Calif.-based Essentials by A.B.S., which will launch in the contemporary section with separates. For Los Angeles-based young contemporary resource Miss Me, August will be a time to expand its presence at the show. Last season, Miss Me Jeans had its own booth at WWDMAGIC, while the sportswear brands MM Couture and Sweet shared another booth. The brands now will occupy three adjacent booths on the show floor. In addition to thousands of domestic (and mostly California- and New York-based) companies, the European presence at the show continues to build, with the addition of brands such as Mango looking to get back into the U.S. market. Other newcomers from Europe and Australia include Motel, Société Europeenne De Confection, Look a Million Dollars, Sarissa Designs and 2B. International brands make up 11 percent of exhibitors. An increasing presence online also has helped preregistration jump significantly. A lot of our communication has been on Web sites and blogs as a great way to engage users, said DeMoulin. We are using Facebook and Twitter to find real advocates of the show. Social networking is a reality of how everyone in this industry keeps up to speed. Improved tools on the home site, also available in PDA applications, also enable buyers to see the Hawking dresses at WWDMAGIC. floor plans ahead of time and map out the shows. With Advanstar s acquisition of the Project and Pool shows last year, there is an even broader range of options for exhibitors, particularly for women s wear. Pool features 70 percent women s brands and 30 percent men s, and Project features 58 percent dual gender brands, 27 percent women s and 15 percent men s brands. It s given us the opportunity when we go meet with a brand to know that we have the ideal platform for them to do business. By matching them up with what they need, we can serve the life cycles of many brands, DeMoulin said. Pool is a place you go as a young company without a lot of money to spend. For them, that s really their first stop on the circuit. Project has become about higher-end designers with limited distribution. Project is staggered to begin its three-day run a day after MAGIC and Pool, giving buyers maximum time to spend at each show. MAGIC also is aiming to keep costs to exhibitors down with a few new booth packages that offer simple turnkey solutions as an alternative to building a big expensive booth. Some brands stay the same, some downsize, said DeMoulin. Our only goal is to make sure when they come to show they can get the best return on investment. More people are opting to spend less on booths and more time selling. 4 WWDMAGIC
SWIMWEAR middle ground SWIMWEAR MAKERS ARE RESPONDING TO RETAILERS CALLS for standout swimwear that looks pricy, but is affordable enough to tempt tight-fisted shoppers. They are also filling the gaps in the market for customers with specific swimwear desires that haven t been fully addressed by the current assortments. The consumer is buying what they love as opposed to just buying, said Natalie Wierzba, national sales manager and merchandiser at Beach Rays, a division of Southern California swimwear manufacturer J.Y. Rays. If something is OK, I don t think it is good enough. Color is one way to grab customers attention and there will be plenty of it on the swimwear racks next year. Carlos Cortes, West Coast sales representative at Bell, Calif.-based Malibu Dream Girl, marketer of the Gossip, Gossip Girl, Gossip Collection, Ocean Dream Collection, Smoothies and Hula Star swimwear lines, noted that an Eighties influence continues to reverberate in Malibu Dream Girls collections for the upcoming season. People are ready for color, he said. Brights have an intensity. They are not quite neon, but they are alive. He cited teal, coral and pink as key colors. For spring-summer 2010, Susan Trinh, marketing coordinator for Torontobased Phantom Industries, producer of Endless Sun, Martini Sol, California Waves and It Figures swimwear, seconded the importance of a bold palette and highlighted lime and blue as vital hues. Purple remains a top color choice. Dani Kates, designer of a new namesake line and three-seasons-old KanDi Swim, noted she has gotten a big response from retailers when she works purple into suits. It is strong enough that it makes a statement, but it is not so in-your-face. It works well with a lot of different skin tones, she said. In prints, animal has retained its strong position in the swimwear heap. New York-based Winki Swim LLC is combining animal print with flowers in its Winki Island swimsuits. It is very hot and trendy for next season still, but you have to mix it with something else, said brand manager Marcella Garcia. With consumers searching for value, reversible swimwear styles are picking up steam. Beach Rays offers reversible girls boardshorts with prints on one side and solids on the other priced at roughly $19 to $23 wholesale. Malibu Dream Girl integrated reversibility into its solid line called Smoothies, wholesaling from around $7 to $12. She [the swimwear shopper] can get four looks out of one set, said Cortes. Adjustability is a crucial selling point as well. Kates pointed out two adjustable silhouettes a KanDi Swim bandeau that can be modified on the sides and at the center and a Dani Kates fold-over bottom in Dani Kates that can be pulled up or down to change coverage that are gaining momentum. KanDi Swim is priced at $20 to $24 wholesale per swimwear item, and Dani Kates is $29 to $41. It is really about catering to different body types, she said. I think that is what helps swim sell well. Swimwear gets a boost as well when it satisfies a particular consumer demand. For example, Kates incorporated DD sizes into her Dani Kates line because she was fielding requests for chic swimwear for DD wearers. There are a lot of customers out there right now looking for DDs, and they want something that is fashion forward, she said. For juniors customers with large bustlines, Malibu Dream Girl brands Gossip and Gossip Girl, which combined average at about $13.50 to $16.50 Dani Kates nylon and Lycra spandex swimsuit. Swim vendors bring bold looks and bargain prices. By Rachel Brown Trina Turk s nylon and spandex swimsuit. wholesale per piece, added underwire in halter and over-theshoulder tops. At the moment, shoppers looking for these styles would have to buy an old-lady underwire or an underwire in a print that they don t care for, Cortes said. They want to have it in a print that is cool and age appropriate. No matter the swimwear style or market segment, price is a major factor in retailers merchandising decisions as well as shoppers purchases. The recession has ended the days of makers unveiling suits with more bells and whistles that bump up prices. In the rocky economic environment, most stay well within a competitive range, and exceeding $100 is reserved for unique pieces aimed at a select clientele. Swimwear, Cortes emphasized, has to be special and salable at the same time. MODEL PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: KARA THOMS/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STILL BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI 6 WWDMAGIC
CONTEMPORARY/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY StudioVM s polyester and Lycra spandex top and David Kahn Jeans cotton and elastane jeans. Pour La Victoire shoes. Inset: MK2K s rayon and spandex shirt and 213 Industry s polyester skirt. Corso Como shoes. beyond basics Bold looks and novelty styles help attract buyers. By Elizabeth Thurman CONTEMPORARY AND YOUNG CONTEMPORARY brands again this season aim to whet retailers appetites with bold novelty styles and lots of merchandising options. Although buyers continue to whittle their budgets, cut back on trade shows and exercise extreme caution when writing orders, manufacturers agree that playing it safe right now is counterintuitive to keeping their businesses afloat. Instead, brands head to WWDMAGIC armed with spring and immediate offerings designed to entice buyers with newness and visual interest. Roseanne Morrison, fashion director for The Doneger Group, noted several major trends in the market, including tough-girl chic, Eightiesinspired motorcycle jackets and skinny legs à la Patti Smith, a pre-world War II, cafe society trend toward feminine but not frilly frocks and an emphasis on mountain lodge looks such as heavy cardigans, boyfriend denim and plenty of plaid. We re definitely seeing a lot of really strong, well-defined trend stories this season, said Morrison, adding that spring looks are heavy on details, albeit carefully placed, such as texture, zippers, mixed media and embroidery. Shanon Martin, sales manager for LA Made, said buyers can expect trendier offerings from the traditionally basic line a move facilitated by the economic crisis. We are finding that buyers are focusing more on fashion styles than basics and we have had to adjust our designs accordingly. There is a lot of competition [in the market] and everyone is paying more attention to details. We are no exception. People are looking for newness, said Martin. To this end, the line is adding more texture and surface interest for spring, including twill tape and mesh details on T-shirts, visible elastic, a group of chambray styles and a mix of knit and woven fabrics on select dresses. Wholesale prices start at $10 for basic T-shirts and tanks and $22 for dresses. A range of sweaters sells for $30 and cashmere styles start at about $70. Hype, a line of custom-printed dresses and tops priced at $44 to $88 wholesale, also is using more embellishment for holiday and spring, such as embroidery on prints, sequin trim on silk chiffon bodies and jeweled buttons. This attention to detail has helped boost sales figures, according to Lucy Thompson, a sales representative for the brand. I believe the increase has been mainly due to our offering of key pieces made special by adding embellishment. This has been our survival strategy [during the economic downturn], said Thompson, who declined to provide numbers. Standout styles for spring and resort include an embroidered mesh dress with cutouts at the back, a one-shoulder, silk and chiffon ruffled top and a group of sequin silk georgette dresses and tops. Charlotte Tarantola, owner and designer of a namesake sweater and top line that sells to 4,000 specialty and major doors, said she has sold more novelty pieces than basics or solids since the economic falloff, and now is focusing on details for spring, offering brighter graphic prints, nautical appliqués, ruffles, shirring and knit mixing, echoing the need to lure customers with more bang for the buck. I think consumers want to pay less than they used to and get more for it. If we don t give that to them, they can get what they need at lots of places for very little money, so the pressure is on to deliver a product that can t be beat in this price point, said Tarantola, whose Culver City, Calif.-based line runs from $19 to $72 at wholesale. Similarly, Allen Allen, a 23-year-old contemporary company, is bringing holiday and resort immediates that focus on lots of color, tie- and dip-dyed washes and more embellishments. The firm has narrowed its offerings by about 25 percent, according to national sales manager Kari Carpino. Its looks trend toward the fashion-conscious, with motorcycle jackets, swingy tunics, tie-dyed skirts and boyfriend Henleys among its key styles, and fabrics provide special effects with ombré and plaid burnouts. The line wholesales from $19 to $54. Like many other manufacturers, Allen Allen is stocking less inventory and doing more cut-to-order pieces, said Carpino. From an operation standpoint, our strategy is to be as efficient as possible and continue to stick to the core of our business by offering a high-quality product at a value price, she added. Charged with the task of penetrating an increasingly shaky marketplace, newer brands are coming out aggressively, much like some more-established lines, equally as determined to offer buyers product that pops. Jumping on spring s Eighties-inspired denim trend, Kensie Denim, a division of Vancouver-based Kensie and its sister brand, Mac & Jac, heads to WWDMAGIC with fashionforward denim jeans, shorts and dresses in a range of washes, cuts and treatments. Core styles in straight and skinny legs and medium-to-dark rinses prevail, but get a healthy dose of novelty from looks such as distressed denim harem pants, an acid-rinse tulip skirt, halter and harem jumpers and dressy, high-waisted pants and shorts. Wholesale prices run from $30 to $45. PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; MODELS: NIKI CLOYD/INDUSTRY MODELS AND ALLA/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI 8 WWDMAGIC
LUXURY FOR LIFE So soft, you can t resist a caress. So exclusive, less than 1% of the world s cotton can be called Supima. Grown only in California and the southwest, then designed into women s, men s and home fashions. For those who embrace luxury and treasure comfort. I www.supima.com
JUNIORS growing bolder CALL IT THE BASICS ANTIDOTE. Junior brands at WWDMAGIC are taking some fashion risks for fall-holiday and spring, unveiling color, shine and heavily distressed fabrics to woo buyers. Denim is getting torn and shredded, skirts are a-twirl in hot pink and T-shirts shimmer with sequined designs. Taking their cues from the spring ready-to-wear runways, which were rich with Eighties references, designers have found a theme that resonates with the junior girl and is easily incorporated into their creations. This is not a basics time, said Janine Blaine, vice president and general merchandise manager of Directives West. To get customers to open their wallets, they need something they don t own. They need emotional buys. Lots of customers don t own color, and that s what s getting them excited. Denim firms haven t abandoned clean, dark skinny jeans that are must-haves to wear with flip-flops, flats or Ugg boots. But, they re focused on pigment XOXO s polyester and spandex romper. washes, colors and embellishments while still keeping the item value-driven.new York-based Dollhouse is showcasing up to 30 new washes for spring for its skinny and flared denim, according to Albert Shehebar, president. Ripping, pinching and painting are a few of the techniques used to enliven the dungarees along with the placement of rhinestones and new hardware details, such as round and square nailheads down the seams. Wholesale prices range from $16 to $22. Jou Jou, New York, is practically walking down Electric Avenue for holiday with denim, adding rhinestones and embroidery to its back pockets, including metallic belts in green and blue, and rolling out iridescent jeans. We just did a reorder of 20,000 jeans in rinsed denim with rhinestones so whenever we see something that sells, we take it to the next level, said Robert Junior looks load on the embellishment. By Nola Sarkisian-Miller Celebrity Pink s cotton denim dress. Pop Eyewear sunglasses; Bee Charming bracelets; Charles David shoes. Acampora, executive vice president of the company. Denim s casual counterpart, the T-shirt, is also heaping on the ornamentation to elevate the pedestrian item to fashion status. Characters from Peanuts, Hello Kitty and Sesame Street are getting updated with metallics at Mighty Fine, where wholesale prices average $10. Jem Sportswear, maker of the Awake Honeydew s nylon and spandex bra and panty. and Couture labels, is embracing Eighties glamour with T-shirts treated with washes, glitter and sequins. The San Fernando, Calif.-based line is creating designs, such as peace signs outlined in sequins, and sewing necklace pieces into shirts. Long T-shirts, raglans, shark bite styles and hoodies are among the highlighted silhouettes with wholesale prices ranging from $18 to $48. Give her a shirt with value and she ll buy it, said Orna Stark, president of Jem. If it s special, it will sell out. But, dumb screen prints offer no value. Defying the current blue mood, holiday looks get festive with party skirts, party dresses in knit-woven combinations paired with cardigans and leggings dolled up with oversize sweaters. Shades of purple, berry, fuchsia and cobalt blue punch up the clothes even more, said Directives West s Blaine. Sweater dresses and sheath shapes are key looks from XOXO, which is embracing shine and new fabric choices for the season, including four-way stretch bottoms. To help give the shopper a reason to celebrate, XOXO has lowered its wholesale prices to $17 to $39. We have brought our retail down anywhere from $5 to $10 from a year ago without giving up any of the details or embellishments that have been successful in our product, said Suzanne Desiderio, president of XOXO Apparel. On the intimates side, Spreegirl is expanding its eco-friendly offerings by adding more bamboo, modal and silk chiffon in chemises, camisoles, bras, bottoms and a wrap. It s also planning to unveil styles using soy-based fabrics and coconuts, all with a wholesale range of $4 to $35. The category is opening new doors, literally, for the lingerie-maker. Beyond selling to traditional lingerie stores, we re now adding gift stores and spa stores, said Vinh Luong, director of sales and marketing for Spreegirl. The whole vibe of bamboo and serenity works with different types of retailers. Preppy skulls, neon, polkadots and golden leopard prints are a few of the designs on the boy shorts, bras and panties at Honeydew Intimates. Jewel tones are the main color focus in purple and navy, and prices range from $5 to $8. While some larger companies are touting their spring fashions, many are sticking to immediates based on retailers skittishness to commit so far ahead. Nobody is really booking out, said Benny Zafrani, creative director at Honeydew. People want to make cash registers ring today. They don t care about February. They re not sure if they ll be around in February. MODEL PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STILL BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI
Buffalo David Bitton s cotton and spandex denim shorts. PREMIUM Velvet Heart s silk top and cotton and spandex denim shorts. A factor that fits taking off Premium enters its second show with twice as many exhibitors. By Beth Wilson At Wells Fargo Trade Capital, we benefit from the strength and stability of our parent company, which means you benefit from a full line of solutions from a company you can trust. ƌ ƌ ƌ ƌ ƌ Factoring and Receivables Management Services Import & Export Financing Letters of Credit Supply Chain Financing Accounts Receivable and Inventory Financing For a quick response and tailor-made solutions, call us today! Wells Fargo Trade Capital - - - wellsfargo.com/tradecapital Wells Fargo Trade Capital. All rights reserved. SINCE ITS INCEPTION IN FEBRUARY, PREMIUM HAS COME INTO its own. Premium really took off, Christopher Griffin, WWDMAGIC show director, said, adding that the area dedicated to advanced women s contemporary resources has more than doubled in size since launching in February. The concept took shape as organizers of the Project trade show narrowed its focus to concentrate on more directional brands. In turn, they created Premium at MAGIC for brands with broader distribution. Lines participating include Desigual, Buffalo Jeans, Velvet Heart, Royal Plush, Zoa and Lucky Brand Footwear. One line new on the roster, Divine Rights of Denim, will heighten buzz at the show with an appearance by Audrina Partridge of MTV s The Hills. Partridge is the face of the denim brand, which specializes in jeans that retail for $78 or less. Partridge, who will be on hand Sept. 1, is a good fit for the one-year-old company because she s confident and she definitely knows how to wear denim, said Marlo Williams, Divine Rights sales manager. At Premium, Divine Rights will show denim with python and leopard prints, denim in colors such as yellow and warm red, as well as dresses, shorts and dresses with jackets. The price point has helped us out in this economy, Williams said of the Gardena, Calif.-based company, which counts Arden B. as one of its main accounts. The company opted to participate in Premium to show alongside its competition. We re definitely among our peers here, she added. This edition of Premium is expected to showcase about 100 brands over 10,000 square feet. The area features lower booth heights and creates more of a stadium effect that organizers say is easier to manage. The uniform booths with white acrylic panels and metal trim sit on a floor of polished concrete in somewhat of a square, surrounding a lounge in the center. Divine Rights of Denim s cotton and spandex denim jeans. MODEL PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STILLS BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI
PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: KIM KAJOHN; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI green growth Ecollection vendors hope for increased business in the category s second year. By Holly Haber EXHIBITORS AT ECOLLECTION, THE GREEN SECTOR OF WWDMAGIC that made its debut a year ago, will spotlight innovative and recycled textiles that spice up sustainable fashion with pattern, texture and flair. Among the newest fabrics are prints made with plant dyes on organic wovens and knits, stretch satin woven from bamboo, organic cotton crepe and a knit blend crafted with corn fiber. As more people get into green, you need to have something to differentiate yourself, said Jim Martin, owner of Green 3, which will exhibit quirky women s totes made of vintage men s suits and colorful patchwork scarves sewn from recycled T-shirts. He feels eco-conscious vendors might attract more attention at the show. Now, people who had not been as interested in green product or made-in-the-u.s. suddenly find that appealing, Earth Co b.organic by Z-Ply Corporation s organic cotton and spandex tank and MM Couture by Miss Me s polyester and rayon pants. because it might give them an opportunity to tell a story that will help them hold their prices, said Martin. Jonano, which develops organic and sustainable fabrics for streamlined sportswear and dresses, will introduce a stretch knit of corn, bamboo and spandex, plus an artistic printing technique on bamboo and spandex jersey. I discovered a watercolor dye technique in Istanbul where the dyes go on almost free-form, and they blend like a watercolor painting. Each piece will look different, said Bonnie Siefers, owner and designer. The corn blend in black or a flecked neutral will be featured in Jonano s first pieces of lingerie a camisole, boyshorts, pants and kimono for immediate delivery. Wholesale prices start at $12 for organic bamboo T-shirts printed with Love or Dream, and top out at $79 for a long zip jacket in a nubby slate silk lined with silk charmeuse. The textured, linenlike outer fabric is woven from fibers extracted from silk cocoons without destroying the worms, a more laborintensive process than the customary practice of boiling the cocoons, she noted. Ethos Paris will highlight its Botanical Impressions line of organic cotton knits and wovens colored with plant-based dyes, said Leslie Leroux, chief executive officer of the French firm s North American division. First shipped this year and expanded for spring, Botanical Impressions mixes the fabrics in dresses and tops wholesaling from $20 to $29. We came up with a lot of interesting prints and colors, she added. It was our best line for spring because it is so unusual and we have very good prices, especially for an organic cotton line. ECOLLECTION MAGa013d;11.indd 1 8/10/09 12:32:10 PM
WOMEN S SPORTSWEAR/DRESSES something extra With customers often reluctant to make a purchase, a unique twist can make the difference. By Beth Wilson SOME WOMEN S SPORTSWEAR VENDORS ARE COUNTING ON convertible clothing and bold colors to entice shoppers. Linda Lundstrom, creative director for Eleventh Floor Apparel Ltd., which purchased Linda Lundstrom Inc. last year, said her line plans to present 25 convertible styles including tops that can be worn back to front as either a bateau- or V-neck style, and skirts that can be worn as dresses or shawls. In addition, the Toronto-based line plans to show threequarter-length reversible trenchcoats, with one style showing a small black ginghamlike print on one side and solid black on the other. I think [shoppers] can justify that, Lundstrom said. They can buy a skirt that they can pull up and wear as a dress. It s doing double duty. In this economy, I m working harder, and the clothes are working harder, too. The line makes its WWDMAGIC debut, wholesaling for $50 to $350. Lundstrom predicts strong sellers will be those that incorporate bold colors, such as persimmon red and cobalt blue, along with those boasting prints like a golden yellow jungle motif paired with neutrals. Some dresses in particular make a strong statement in ombré silk, featuring two colors on the front and another two colors on the back. The line also features another more primal or primitive print incorporating a version of an ancient language and pictographs that translate into warrior woman. Whether buyers will pick up on the theme remains to be seen, but Lundstrom believes it may unknowingly draw them. There may be something about it that compels them to walk in, she said. It speaks a universal language. Overall, shoppers now are looking to purchase special or striking pieces that will work with their current wardrobes, Lundstrom added. Versatile fashions such as reversible dresses and skirts from Eva Varro likely will be among the line s stronger sellers, said Lynn Girard, who owns a showroom at the California Market Center. Varro also will include a higher-end collection of silk jersey pieces in bright pink, aqua, lime green and shades of purple. When the economy s bad, people want what s not hanging in their closet, and they want happy colors that make them feel good, Girard said. Wholesale prices range from $32 for a tank to $78 for a dress, with silk styles priced higher. Girard also will present Fabrizio Gianni s collection of jersey tops and pants, each in 20 colors, with tops in coral, mint green, grass green and cobalt. The line s best-selling jeans, at $75 wholesale, will hang alongside its stretch poplin cargo pants, which proved to be a sleeper hit last year. This year, the line is introducing three lengths of the cargo look full, Bermuda and capri in a variety of colors, wholesaling from $65 to $75. In all, pieces wholesale for $35 for a sleeveless top to $80 for novelty trousers. Now, in particular, it s more about the value than the trend, said Jim Carpenter, sales manager for Scully Sportswear in Oxnard, Calif. Pricesensitive merchandise has a place in this market where it didn t two years ago. Leather jackets account for 50 percent of the line, which also offers blouses and skirts, at $75 to $160 wholesale. Like Lundstrom, Julie Jordan Browne, director of sales for Nic + Zoe, also white hot WHITE, A SEGMENT OF WWDMAGIC FOR women s better-to-bridge resources, keeps growing despite the economic slowdown. Launched in February 2007 with about 40 lines, the area known for its elegant, white-dominated decor and minimalistic vibe has grown to feature Lundstrom s silk jersey dress. Pour La Victoire shoes. about 100 North American and European labels wholesaling from $60 to $300. The 10,000-square-foot area also has added an accessories component and will be home to the contemporary line launch of Kenley Collins, a former fifth-season Project Runway finalist, who will be on hand to show her spring 2010 collection of vintage-inspired silk organza, tulle and silk shantung dresses and accessories. Lily Inc. s polyester and spandex dress. Cinzia Designs sunglasses. plans to incorporate ombré looks and show strong hues grounded by neutral bottoms. In particular, the New York-based line will introduce groups showcasing indigos and warm sand, graphic black and whites with yellow lime and peony or with neutral greens paired with turquoise. Known for its sweaters, Nic + Zoe also will offer its version of the boyfriend cardigan with mixed yarns, space dyes and different textures from pointelle to patchwork. It also will utilize ombré, tie-dye and dip-dye treatments with its sweaters and woven pieces. Browne also predicts customers will respond well to the trend of incorporating necklaces into sweaters, with styles featuring knit balls that resemble a necklace, eliminating the need for jewelry. With wholesale prices ranging from $19.50 for basic tanks to $79 for woven jackets and embellished skirts, Nic + Zoe also will feature denim skirts with different silhouettes, pin-striped and seersucker cotton blend long and cropped pants and lightweight knit skirts in lengths ranging from the longer patio skirt to a flirt skirt that hits just below the knee. Dimitri Komarov, owner and president of Dimitri, Los Angeles, will continue to focus on dresses and skirts for his cruise line. It will include pleated dresses, tunics, chiffon blouses and resort cover-ups along with traditional mother-of-the-bride gowns in greens, purples and yellows. Skirts and dresses will continue to be key, he said, noting that his business has been 75 percent dress driven for the past few years. Wholesale prices range from $65 for a cap-sleeve buttoned blouse to $90 for a beaded tunic dress to $140 for a double-layer full-length gown. Komarov, who counts Nordstrom among his major accounts, said he also will show holiday pieces in burnout velvets in rich hues of deep purple and emerald as well as black and charcoal for those doing last-minute shopping. Everyone s buying things down to the wire, he said. The line also features items made with its version of pashmina in washed-out prints. Tunics wholesale for $80 and dresses go for $129. Additional lines showing at White include Lines of Denmark, Carlopik, Didier Parakian, 172 Grams and Puli, among others. Dimitri Komarov, owner and president of Dimitri, said his Los Angeles-based line will continue to participate in White because of its past success there. I like how it s very streamlined, clean and nondescript, he said. It s a good way to represent your label. B.W. PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; MODELS: ALLA/WILHELMINA AND ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI 14 WWDMAGIC
PHOTOS BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI easy options Accessories provide lots of flexibility. By Beth Wilson THE THREE BUZZWORDS IN ACCESSORIES NEXT spring are colorful, casual and versatile, vendors say. That s because accessories companies, from jewelry to handbags, have identified that women want distinctive colorful statement pieces designed to modernize their potentially older wardrobes that often incorporate denim. In these times, it needs to be denim-friendly and casual, said Martha Radford, design director for Hobo International. Everyone isn t getting dressed up all the time anymore. Jeanne Kirkland, chief executive officer and designer for Urban Posh, an Austin, Tex.-based jewelry line, has recognized the same dynamic. In this economy, people are looking for things to go day into night, Kirkland said, noting many of her bestsellers can be paired as easily with jeans and a T-shirt as with a cocktail dress. From a jewelry standpoint, Kirkland believes shoppers are searching for more subdued statement pieces. Before it was more in your face, she said. Now it s just as bold but more refined. Instead of big, chunky necklaces, Urban Posh now spotlights necklaces with large medallions or pendants and more layered chains. Kirkland added shoppers are looking to accessories to liven up last year s clothes. A lot of people are staying with the wardrobe they have and popping it with accessories, she said. For Big Buddha, a Santa Cruz, Calif.-based line of nonleather goods, a casual vibe always has been part of its aesthetic. As a result, color also is a critical component to many accessories lines. Designer Jeremy Bassan is introducing handbags with a pink lining, as well as bags in natural shades, turquoise and coral. They all wholesale at between $34 and $38. Big Buddha also will produce tie-dyed canvas bags with leatherlike trim and tassels and hibiscus floral embroidery. Back at Hobo, for spring, the company will unveil brightly colored patent clutches and mini cross-body styles in black, lime, turquoise, fuchsia and a floral print. Those are statement bags, Radford said. Its mini cross-body and basic shoulder bags are made of Italian goatskin in pebble, saffron, clay red and blue with braiding, stitching treatment and antique brass hardware. Additionally, Hobo will offer satchels, clutches and cross-body styles in black, maple, mustard and coral among other shades in its vintage leather collection. New details include folding, pleating, stud treatments, wider zippers and Potluck Paris copper, white metal and silver bracelet. Regis Ales brass and nickel-plated crystal earrings. Big Buddha polyurethane bag. Marciano alloy and stainless steel watches. statement hardware on the bags, most of which retail for less than $200, with wholesale prices ranging from $39 for mini cross-body bags to $150 for some of the larger handbags. We re trying hard to keep the prices well under $100, but we use Italian skins, so it s a big challenge, Radford said. Color also shapes Urban Posh s spring assortment, where Kirkland noted she attempts to appeal to two customers those who love bursts of color and vivid shades of orange, green and purple, and those who prefer a more neutral palette. In turn, she offers more modern, chandelier-style earrings with marquise-cut stones and dangling leaves in smoky topaz and more vibrant stones. The earrings, which Kirkland said will be a strong seller, are wholesaling for $45 to $65. She predicted another top performer will be a gold cuff with cutouts and large gemstones set in a floral pattern, at $85 wholesale. Overall, the line, which averages at $40 wholesale, ranges from $12 for a single leaf stack ring to $161 for a large gold, purple and green hydro quartz necklace. And as colorful scarves were the must-have item last spring, Alexia Crawford, owner of the New York-based line bearing her name, observed that some buyers are looking for hair accessories to take their place. Everybody s looking for the next trend, said Crawford, whose line sells to Forever 21 and Arden B. Scarves were hot last spring, and now they re oversaturated. Hair accessories, particularly jeweled items wholesaling for $4 to $8, have been her strongest-selling category, she said. Other top performers are metallic mesh coin purses at $2 to $4, and suede bracelets from $4 to $18. Overall, the moderate price point has helped the line survive during the economic downturn, Crawford said. We re holding our own, she said. On the plus side, we re in junior chain stores and they re doing OK, but people are very conscious of what they re spending. That means in today s marketplace, accessories need to be more just than on-trend; they must possess that crucial combination of quality, design and value. We all just have to work a lot harder, said Radford of Hobo, noting that, when people are spending less on themselves, an accessory must stand out. You have to have it. [The product] has to be so fantastic that you re full of remorse if you don t buy it. To that end, Hobo is focused on functional bags with an edge. That philosophy is shared by Big Buddha, which has chosen to emphasize its function and styling with new customized hangtags that contain a drawing of a model wearing that style of handbag on the front, and on the back, lists its three top features, such as an adjustable strap allowing the bag to be carried over the shoulder or across the body, messenger-style. Additionally, each bag will now include a logo key fob and ID/credit card case. Said Bassan: We re trying to give our customers more for the same price. ACCESSORIES WWDMAGIC 15
SHOES A Report leather sandal. over the top Spring footwear focuses on heavily detailed looks. By Katherine Bowers A BASIC, UNADORNED SHOE HAS virtually no reason to exist anymore. These days, it s all about footwear with notice-me shelf appeal extra buckles and wrapping straps, exposed zippers, ruffles, pleating, topstitching, earthy polished stones and flat studs. Even stretch-fit shoes, after several strong seasons, are trending downward because they curl up and don t display decorative detail well, said several vendors planning to show at WWDMAGIC. The trend is overembellishment, said Sheena Parks, marketing director for El Segundo, Calif.-based Matisse Footwear. Anything we can sew onto an upper, we re using. The 10-year-old firm will bring three labels to the show: Matisse, at $27 to $64 wholesale; Coconuts, at $22 to $32, and The Mix, a new offering that was a Nordstrom exclusive in its first season, at $25 to $45. when others fail... waitex provides Complete end-to-end supply chain solutions `LHYZVML_WLYPLUJLPU[OLNHYTLU[PUK\Z[Y` TPSSPVUZXM[VMTVKLYUKPZ[YPI\[PVUMHJPSP[PLZPU5L^ @VYR5L^1LYZL`3VZ(UNLSLZ ZLY]PJLZWLJPHSPZ[ZPU[OL<:,+0<**(:5;4:ZJHUWHJRJHWHIPSP[` *VTWSL[LIHJRVMÄJLKH[HWYVJLZZPUNZLY]PJLZ (WWHYLS,97ZVM[^HYLVUKLTHUK]PHYLTV[LHJJLZZ 7PJRWHJRZOPWI`WPLJLVYWYLWHJRLKJHY[VU.6/-SH[WHJRZ[VYHNLI`JHY[VU\UP[ZXM[.HYTLU[YLM\YIPZOTLU[HUKSHILSZL^PUN /VMMTHU7YLZZ:[LHT[\UULS 7\YJOHZLVYKLYÄUHUJPUN3+77YVNYHT For a risk-free assessment: 5@)HYY`! 3((SMYLK!,THPS!PUMV'^HP[L_JVT ^^^^HP[L_JVT A Very Volatile leather and cork wedge. In terms of color, blues and purples are expected to be strong for spring as well as dusty neutrals (tans, mushroom taupes, pale greens and rose beige). Metallics have become a staple in the customer s wardrobe and are expected to run through spring. Based on trend-scouting trips to Europe, vendors believe gladiators and peep-toe booties will continue as a consumer favorite. Moreno Habif, president of Miami-based More Shoes, makers of the Enigma label, is offering gladiators with colorful, braided straps and contrast stitching. He s also seen strong interest in double platform shoes, a look popularized by high-end label Giuseppe Zanotti. Report Shoes, based in Bellevue, Wash., also is bullish on platform sandals, as well as high-drama, over-the-knee boots. Customers have been responding well to ruffles, prints and anything with hardware on it, said Jeff Powers, Report s senior vice president. Chinese Laundry, which will bring its flagship label and three subbrands to the expo, is seeing block heels, espadrilles, stitching accents and burnished leathers fare well. The company will test shoes with macramé uppers for its CL by Laundry label for spring, said brand president Tsering Namgyal. Flojos, in Thousand Oaks, Calif., also is seeing continued Seventies influences. The company feels strongly about its peace-sign Harmony flip-flops as well as animal exotics (boa, jaguar and zebra), said marketing executive Tiffany Eil. Stewart Cohen, national account manager for Dreams, says the affordable junior brand will test huaraches alongside gladiators and peep-toe styles. Along with trends, the City of Industry, Calif.-based company is focused on finishing details, such as rolled edges to hide seams, which aims to appeal to customers trading down from department stores. Our new designer, Jo Mortellaro, is traveling around the world to get new ideas about how to make our shoes look like a much more elevated brand, Cohen said. Corso Como leather shoes. PHOTOS BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI
bang for the buck Children s wear vendors offer customers more for their money. By Joanna Ramey KIDS WITH THE ECONOMIC DOLDRUMS EXPECTED TO LINGER, it s not surprising that the overriding children s apparel fashion trend for next spring and summer is giving customers good value. Take the label Grace 4 Girlz: All the clothes are reversible. You get a lot for your money, said Kristen Borden, whose fashions are bowing at the trade show. Made in Los Angeles of 95 percent organic cotton and 5 percent spandex, there are seven silhouettes and four colors out of which 200 different outfits can be fashioned. The garments for 2- to 6-year-olds also come with collectible appliqués with happy messages. Wholesale prices are $8 to $34. Other examples of double-duty garments include lightweight toppers with novelty prints, embroidery or dropped waists, used as alternatives to outerwear and blazers to accessorize outfits. It s all about apparel s versatility and multiple uses, from play to school, said Jamie Ross, a creative director and trend forecaster for The Doneger Group. The narratives behind children s fashions for the season also reference happier times in America, like a Fifties-candy-store theme for girls that has full skirts with tulle petticoats in pink and mint and prints of lollipops and candy stripes, Ross said. Other designs include prairie and rustic Americana looks for girls, such as peasant blouses and skirts in soft calico, gingham and Liberty prints. For boys, this theme includes durable work pants and overalls fit for an early-20thcentury factory worker, and faded Western prints and plaids with dungarees. The Eighties are also being recast for all kids, as in bold graphic T-shirts and Flashdance sweatshirts using geometric patterns, colorblocking and stripes of bright colors such as grape and turquoise. Additionally, rich colors including orange, fuchsia, teal, purple and deep red are emphasized in a retro pan-ethnic look, such as Mexican-inspired striped serape dresses for girls and shirts for boys. You might have Mexican embroidery, but over an African print, and the color is from Cuba, said Lilly Berelovich, president of New York-based forecaster Fashion Snoops. Another girl-and-boy spring trend is clothing that looks like you ve embellished, patched or colored yourself, Berelovich said. It s happening now with adults, and it s coming from the mommy bloggers. A look from Brooksfield. Fashion perks belts with pants, leggings with tunics, three pairs of leggings for the price of one and fake-layered T-shirts also will be key in apparel vendor lineups a year from now. It gives customers the sense of getting more for their money, Ross said. Getting a twofer is part of the message behind new sterling silver necklaces with pendants of ice cream cones, bubble hearts and rainbows, by girls accessory company High IntenCity, based in Fair Lawn, N.J. Called Charm Candy, the necklaces, which wholesale for $9, are nested in a bakery box inside a reusable cupcake liner and with a recipe. Anyone buying the gift is getting a tremendous value, said marketing associate Jacquelyn Doran-Blauvelt. ĉāāŏćććŏąćăăŏđŏŏāĉċăć
CALENDAR MAGIC marketplace Las Vegas Convention Center and Las Vegas Hilton, Aug. 31 to Sept. 2. Sourcing at MAGIC begins Aug. 30. Schedule is accurate as of press time, but subject to change, and attendees are encouraged to confirm information. SHOW HOURS Aug. 30: Noon to 6 p.m. (Sourcing at MAGIC) Aug. 31: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sept. 1-2: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The MAGIC Marketplace consists of: MAGIC (men s apparel and accessories) WWDMAGIC (women s apparel and accessories) MAGIC kids (children s apparel and accessories) Sourcing at MAGIC (international apparel contract manufacturers; fabric and trim manufacturers, and service providers) SHOW AMENITIES Buyers Suite: Relax, eat, check e-mail and network at this buyersonly lounge. Grand Lobby, Room N109, LVCC Retail Relations Team: Get insider tips from MAGIC s retail relations specialists at the Buyer s Suite. Category specialists will provide visuals and product catalogues of new brands available throughout the show floor. Swarovski Crystallized Elements Lounge: A display of crystal elements, a view of interactive applications and designs using Crystallized Swarovski Elements. Booth 17629 (in WHITE section), North Hall, LVCC WWD Internet Lounge: See how designer looks from the runways translate into wearable trends. Grand Lobby, North Hall, LVCC New Buyer Seminar: Held on Aug. 31, this seminar offers advice and tips on navigating the show floor. Twilight Reception: Aug. 31, 5 to 7 p.m., floor wide, North Hall, LVCC FOOD SERVICES Special Lunch Program $5 lunches are available to exhibitors and retailers at designated locations throughout the exhibit halls. TRAVEL SERVICES Discounted room blocks starting at $50 per night are available through Travel Planners Inc. TRANSPORTATION Scooter rental is available at the show. Check with show organizers for information. Gold Lot Shuttle Service Transportation between Central Hall and the Gold Parking Lot. Aug. 31: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sept. 1-2: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Hotel Shuttle Service Continuous shuttle service between select MAGIC hotels and the Las Vegas Convention Center. Aug. 31: 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.* Sept. 1-2: 7:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.* * Service ceases daily between 11 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. Airport Shuttle Service Hourly from the Las Vegas Convention Center to McCarran Airport. Shuttles are located in front of the LVCC. Sept. 2: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.