TEGOSOFT OER Enzymatically produced, vegetable-based ester TEGOSOFT OER is a natural based highly pure cosmetic ester oil. It is produced by the Evonik unique enzymatic process. This emollient imparts a caring and smooth skin feel in cosmetic formulations. Evonik delivers: 1. Fully based on renewable sources 2. Emollient based on an eco-efficient process 3. Rich and caring skin feel
Benefits Imparts a caring and smooth skin feel in cosmetic formulations Alternative or supplement to jojoba oil with consistent high quality Highly compatible with other cosmetic oils and easy to formulate in O/W and W/O formulations. Applications Skin care products Sun care products Color cosmetics and other personal care products Properties Clear and medium polar liquid emollient Highly pure emollient with very low color Ester of oleyl alcohol and erucic acid of 100% vegetable origin Produced by an Evonik unique eco-efficient process COSMOS, NATRUE and Ecocert approved Free to use in China INCI: Oleyl Erucate Page 2/8
Emollient chart List of products Surface tension [mn/m] 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 1 4 5 2 3 6 8 11 9 10 7 12 TEGOSOFT OER 17 3 10 100 Viscosity [mpa s] Size of circles: proportional to spreadability; color of circles: very high polar < > non-polar Color of outline: fully vegetable based; fully vegetable based and enzymatically produced. 15 13 14 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 Jojoba Oils (Typically batch-to-batch variations) 21 24 No. Product name 1 Cyclopentasiloxane 2 TEGOSOFT AC 3 TEGOSOFT DEC 4 TEGOSOFT M 5 TEGOSOFT P 6 TEGOSOFT DC 7 TEGOSOFT OP 8 TEGOSOFT XC 9 TEGOSOFT TN 10 TEGOSOFT OS 11 TEGOSOFT CO 12 TEGOSOFT CI 13 TEGOSOFT CT 14 ABIL Wax 9801 15 TEGOSOFT APM 16 Mineral Oil 17 TEGOSOFT OER 18 Octyldodecanol 19 Avocado Oil 20 TEGOSOFT E 21 ABIL Wax 9840 22 TEGOSOFT PBE 23 TEGOSOFT TIS 24 ABIL 350 Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGOSOFT OER September 2015 Page 3/8
TEGOSOFT OER versus jojoba oil Product color and effects on visual product appearance. The color of TEGOSOFT OER is substantially improved compared to natural jojoba oil. TEGOSOFT OER (enzymatic) Jojoba Oil (cold pressed) Jojoba Oil (ecological) Product with 5% TEGOSOFT OER Product with 5% Jojoba Oil (cold pressed) TEGOSOFT OER has no noticeable impact on the appearance of formulations, unlike natural jojoba oil. A skin care O/W emulsion with 5% TEGOSOFT OER has no yellowish product appearance as compared to jojoba oil formulated at equal level. Therefore, TEGOSOFT OER can be used in color sensitive cosmetic formulations. Page 4/8
Sensorial properties in O/W formulation Comparitive sensory profile of formulations with TEGOSOFT OER or jojoba oil (cold pressed), at 5% O/W cream Score Ease of distribution Whitening Moisture Silky/Velvety Slippery Oiliness Stickiness Silky/Velvety Slippery Oiliness Stickiness 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 After 5 circles Directly after application 5 min after application Formulation with TEGOSOFT OER (WR 3/09-77) Formulation with Jojoba Oil (WR 3/09-78) TEGOSOFT OER and jojoba oil provide similar sensory properties to O/W formulations. Test formulation O/W cream 5.0% TEGOSOFT OER/Jojoba Oil 3.0% Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 1.4% Glyceryl Stearate 0.6% Stearyl Alcohol 10.0% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.0% Glycerin ad 100% Water Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGOSOFT OER September 2015 Page 5/8
Sensorial properties in W/O formulation Comparitive sensory profile of formulations with TEGOSOFT OER or jojoba oil (cold pressed), at 5% W/O cream Score Ease of distribution Whitening Moisture Silky/Velvety Slippery Oiliness Stickiness Silky/Velvety Slippery Oiliness Stickiness 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 After 5 circles Directly after application 5 min after application Formulation with TEGOSOFT OER (WR 3/09-78b) Formulation with Jojoba Oil (WR 3/09-78c) TEGOSOFT OER and jojoba oil provide similar sensory properties to W/O formulations. Test formulation W/O cream 5.0% TEGOSOFT OER/Jojoba Oil 3.0% Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate-3 0.5% Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5% Beeswax 16.0% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.0% Glycerin 0.05% Preservative 1.0% Magnesiumsulfate Heptahydrate ad 100% Water Page 6/8
Guideline formulation Natural Wellness Body Lotion (F 11/10-16) A TEGO Care PSC 3 3.0% TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.0% TEGOSOFT OER (Oleyl Erucate) 3.0% Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 5.0% B Water 80.5% Glycerin 3.0% C Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CPKelco) 0.5% D Sodium Hydroxide (10 % in water) 0.2% Processing 1. Heat phase A and B separately to 70-75 C. 2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring. 1) 3. Homogenize. 4. Cool with gentle stirring. 5. Add phase C at 40 C. 6. Homogenize for a short time. 7. Add phase D. 8. Add phase E and adjust the ph to 5.0 5.5. E Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid (Rokonsal BSB-N, Ashland) 0.8% 1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring. Z Perfume q.s. Remarks Emulsion viscosity: 25 Pa s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 4, 5 rpm) Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGOSOFT OER September 2015 Page 7/8
Europe France phone +33 237 82-7193 Italy phone +39 0348 3363-778 Russia phone +7 495 721 2862 ext. 577 Scandinavia phone +45 449 91-800 Spain phone +34 93 3458-822 United Kingdom phone +44 78 02791748 Asia China phone +86 21 6119-3001 India phone +91 22 6723-8891 Indonesia phone +62 21 882-8322 Japan phone +81 3 5323-7384 South Korea phone +82 2 320-4784 The Americas Canada phone +1 905 336-3423 Brazil phone +55 11 3146-4139 Mexico phone +52 55 5483-0973 USA phone +1 804-727-0709 Africa South Africa phone +27 11 697-0724 Australia Australia & New Zealand phone +61 3 8581 8414 This information and all further technical advice is based on our present knowledge and experience. However, it implies no liability or other legal responsibility on our part, including with regard to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, no warranty, whether express or implied, or guarantee of product properties in the legal sense is intended or implied. We reserve the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further developments. The customer is not released from the obligation to conduct careful inspection and testing of incoming goods. Performance of the product described herein should be verified by testing, which should be carried out only by qualified experts in the sole responsibility of a customer. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor does it imply that similar products could not be used. For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a specific area of interest, please contact the Head Office of Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH in Essen or contact your local representative. This product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States, Canada, and Mexico). Since global regulatory requirements differ, parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations, including but not limited to import and export regulations. Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user. This product is not intended to be used as a drug. September 2015 Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH Personal Care Goldschmidtstraße 100, 45127 Essen, Germany p.o. Box, 45116 Essen phone +49 201 173-3500, fax +49 201 173-713500 personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care