Tom s of Maine Founder Bites Into New Biz In 2006, eco-entrepreneur Tom Chappell sold his Tom s of Maine natural personal care products company to Colgate-Palmolive. A few days after inking the deal he went on a two-week hiking trip in Wales and quickly became disenchanted with his clothing s performance. His discomfort served as the impetus to start Ramblers Way Farm, a Kennebunk, MEbased maker of lightweight, soft, next-to-skin and lifestyle apparel. Chappell founded the company in October 2009 with his wife, Kate, and serves as its CEO. The brand s main point of difference is that its entire line is 100 percent sourced and made in the U.S.A. After going on 14-mile hikes everyday, I found that silk was wet and cold, wool was heavy and scratchy, and synthetics were smelly, Chappell recalled. I then started researching natural fibers such as wool, looking for something that was lightweight, fine and soft. The answer appeared in the form of America s Rambouillet sheep, which produces luxuriously soft wool. Ramblers Way Farm offers both wool and pima cotton garments for men and women. The wool collection utilizes superfine, long, soft fibers from Rambouillet sheep that PAGE 28 JANUARY 19, 2015
come from ranches in Montana and Nevada. Textile companies in the Carolinas handle the wool manufacturing process, and a garment maker in Allentown, PA, does the cutting and sewing. The resulting apparel is soft and comfortable, repels odor, and resists shrinking and pilling. According to Chappell, the wool is washed, spun, knitted, dyed and finished using environmentally sustainable practices, and is also chemical-free. In February, the company will open a wet finishing facility in Kennebunk. We have a patent pending on a natural dyeing procedure, and we will also continue to increase our cut and sew capacity in Kennebunk, he said. Our supply chain is all very near us which allows us to be flexible in the wide variety of colors we can offer. The corporate headquarters currently occupies two ecofriendly buildings in Kennebunk that house offices, showrooms Tom Chappell, CEO, Ramblers Way Farm. and design studios. The wet finishing facility will be located in another part of town and will include a cut and sew operation. JUDY SPIES... JANUARY 19, 2015 PAGE 29
The brand launched its pima cotton category two years ago to help balance the Fall/Winter wool business. We were known for our wool, but Americans are used to buying cotton. It s hard to have strong Spring/ Summer sales in wool, so the pima cotton rounds out our business, explained Chappell. I learned the horrors of a seasonal business once I got into wool. In toothpaste, plaque grows year-round! The women s Funnel Neck Jacket (SRP $375) and Wool French Terry Tapered Pant (SRP $115) are both made from 100 percent pure American Rambouillet wool that is sustainably farmed and ethically produced. PAGE 30 JANUARY 19, 2015
Chappell first sold Ramblers Way Farm products online, and then built a national network of specialty retailers. (The split of sales is now 30 percent website and 70 percent wholesale.) The company only recently began selling into the specialty outdoor apparel market and is making its first appearance at the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market show being held this week in The Long Sleeve Henley (SRP $110), which uses superfine American Rambouillet wool, is machine washable Salt Lake City. The and dryable, breathable, antimicrobial, and quick drying. Its worsted yarn construction eliminates the typical brand s 2015 line includes wool nextto-skin garments wool scratchy feel. such as woven shirts, polo shirts, boxer shorts, long johns and lounge pants. The pima cotton assortment is comprised of next-to-skin tops, dresses, loungewear and accessories. Retail price points range from $75 to $99 for next-toskin and from $125 to $250 for loungewear and shirts. The next-to-skin wool line features a worsted yarn construction that keeps fibers parallel to prevent a scratchy feel, and a JUDY SPIES... JANUARY 19, 2015 PAGE 31
Windspun process removes excess fiber to reduce piling. The breathable, antimicrobial fabric wicks moisture, repels odor, is quick drying, and warm even when wet. Product uniqueness and quality is our number one value. Our designers focus on lifestyle fashion, which is a more elevated design than just utilitarian apparel, said Chappell. We were the first company to pioneer the use of U.S.-produced Rambouillet wool, and the fine 18 micron and 18.5 micron fiber is used by us exclusively. We ve found that Rambouillet wool has more elasticity and springiness than Merino wool. Ramblers Way Farm boasts more than 350 active accounts in the U.S. and is on track to open 150 new accounts every year with the help of a six-person, full-time sales team. In keeping with being a family business, Chappell s daughter, Eliza, creates women s designs; son-in-law Nick manages supply chain; and son Chris leads the web business and communications. Within the next two years, Chappell expects to open one or more Ramblers Way retail stores, starting in Maine and then going into resort areas. Our focus is on the U.S. which accounts for 99 percent of our distribution, but we also have independent accounts in Canada and are selling into Isetan, a leading department store in Japan, said Chappell. Annual sales hit the $1 million mark in 2014 and are projected to more than double in 2015. The road to $10 million is fast arriving, he quipped. Once the brand is discovered, ramping up is fast. PAGE 32 JANUARY 19, 2015